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About Mfezi

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  1. Beautiful work. I must make a note of the Mr Color 8: It seems to work extremely well for simulating that Russian aluminium lacquer finish.
  2. There are actually several standards on cyrillic transliteration and although the ones that use the "ลก" (a "s" with a caron) have their roots in the Czech language, they can be used in other languages also, including English. For example, someone working in linguistics would probably use it that way. There is actually a pretty good Wikepedia article on the various cyrillic transliteration standards: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Romanization_of_Russian However, I agree fully that without the caron, writing a "s" in place of the Russian "sh" letter is simply wrong. So any use of "Sturmovik" (
  3. Originally, I didn't like the Aubergine, but after seeing the Su-30SM and Su-35S in action, the "dark Flanker" scheme sort-of started to grow on me. At least to the point where I started accepting it. However, I must say, I am not at all disappointed that they decided to revert back to the old colours. It also looks particularly smart on the new Yak-130's. At least, I hope they do he rest also in this scheme:
  4. That is truly beautiful box art! I am just a bit sad there is no South African Air Force marking - the orange and silver is still my favourite Harvard colour scheme.
  5. What a fantastic and inspirational build! I get nervous about adding a few details, while what you did was not just a conversion, it was pretty much a scratch-build. I am really impressed!
  6. Heck, Rizon, you would be bored out of your mind with a modern shake-and-bake Tamigawa kit... It is hard to believe that seat is scratch-built, and in 1/72nd scale also!
  7. Yup, and before that we also used that "diamond scheme" on our Cheetah Cs and Ds. Unlike the Gripen, on the Cheetahs the darker diamond was also repeated on the bottom. I must admit I really like the strong contrast made by the two colours used on the T-50. I think it looks great! I liked the earlier splinter scheme, but I think this looks even better.
  8. Well, you clearly have very little use for resin parts... You make me feel a little embarrassed about my own models By the way, have you given a loadout any thought? I can't recall seeing pictures of armed Namibian F-7s.
  9. I still think it is extremely unlikely that MiG-15s during Korea were painted according to BS 381C. In fact, also looking at the discussion on scalemodels.ru to which Kari referred, there is some acknowledgement that Soviet manufacturers would possibly have tried to accommodate foreign clients if they specified a colour based on BS 381C, but that is about the only case where such standards would come into play - and that probably only in later years, not the 1950s. In fact, unless someone comes up with Soviet-era instructions referring to BS 381C for domestic use or factory workers stating une
  10. Rizon, great to see you here! Nice to see you working on a model again also. Have you given a thought to decals yet?
  11. Flankerman - on what day(s) were you at MAKS? I was there on the Friday, and it rained a lot in the afternoon. Several of the displays had to stick to their bad-weather versions, we only saw one T-50 flying, and I think several displays got cancelled because I have seen many photographs on the internet of aircraft that did not fly on the Friday. My photographs are all pretty average because of the weather. In 2011 I was there on two days, which ended up in about 1/2 a day of good weather and one almost completely rained out. I am starting to think Zhukovskiy has it in for me... I go to Russia
  12. Ah, that's what I thought. Thanks for the answer. Lucky Model never seems to have that set in stock, so I was hoping you found some alternative from the main Mr Color range that works this well... I guess I'll just have to keep my eyes open for the RAF sets - I really like the way these colours look on the model.
  13. Absolutely beautiful work! Apologies if I missed this in another thread, but what paint (and specific numbers) did you use for your Ocean Grey / Dark Green / Medium Sea Grey camouflage? It looks very convincing.
  14. Apparently, not all hardware store lacquer or cellulose thinners are the same. I had exactly the same problem when thinning Mr Surfacer with my local hardware store lacquer thinner. When I got it thin enough to stop the candy floss, it would dry partially in mid-air resulting in a powdery finish on the surface. All my problems went away when I started using Mr Leveling thinners. However, I believe Tamiya lacquer thinner also work well with Mr Surfacer. Just be careful: Tamiya makes three types of thinner - Lacquer, Enamel and Acrylic. You want the lacquer thinner. My first choice will still b
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