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Everything posted by treker_ed

  1. How dare you..... If it isn't broke - don't fix it! But seriously, good luck with the switchover - everything needs updating from time to time - including software that seems to be working fine on the surface, but in actual fact (like a swan) is paddling furiously underneath just to keep afloat! And when the downtime occurs - just means more time to build!!!!! Treker
  2. This was checked in the store, and all the sprues were taken out of the box. Only one clear sprue was present. If there had been two, I would not have made the comment in the first place. But thank you for the suggestion.
  3. Just picked one up today from Antics in Plymouth - Unfortunately, it's got the lens missing off the clear sprue! And the guys in the store advised that this was from the latest batch supplied to them.
  4. I know this is resurrecting an old thread - but a quick check and most of the pics of RAF jags in Desert Storm show with just one centre-line tank. I've recently picked one up and it's the desert storm variant I've chosen to do.
  5. Antics is still in Plymouth. It's on Royal Parade, next door to the Plymouth Bus Company shop.
  6. treker_ed

    Is it just me ?

    Don't seem to have any problems with the acrylics - I thin them to 50:50 ratio with Tamiya thinner and don't seem to have any problems when I do need to airbrush with them. I have to say though I don't use them as my main paints, those are Tamiya acrylics. But, the times when I cant get an equivalent in Tamiya, I have a small collection of Humbrol and get on okay with them. That's just my experience of using them.
  7. I currently have an Italeri 1/48 special boxing of their IDS tornado, which includes in the markings a 16 squadron anniversary from 1990, gloss black scheme with special squadron markings. As one of the previous posters has asked, can a GR1 be made from this kit? If so, just wondering if it would be better to pick this kit up and use this and the Italeri kit markings?
  8. I would agree - mix by volume not weight hence suggesting getting syringes to measure the paint out. They are,surprisingly, very accurate.
  9. (http://www.amazon.co...ix=syringes,aps - quick search on amazon - syringes) I just buy these sort of things when I need to - quite accurate when I need them as the 1ml are graduated in 01.ml and the 5ml are graduated in 0.2ml.
  10. Personally I get syringes from modelling shops and even pet shops. The 1ml syringes have 0.1ml increments which make them very accurate indeed, and the 5ml are in 0.2ml increments. So for example, Revell don't have gunmetal grey in their range, so they want you to use anthracite and steel. Off the top of my head (as I haven't used them for a while) in the aqua range that's 91 (steel) & 9 (Anthracite) 75% & 25% respectively. so a ratio of........3:1, in in other words, 3 lots of steel to 1 of anthracite. so for 4ml of paint you would use 3 ml of steel, 1 ml of anthracite. (with me so far - it all boils down to maths I'm afraid - this is why I personally try to avoid using Revell paints in the first place and convert to another range that has the correct colour without mixing paints) Larger batches just use this ratio. 10ml = 7.5ml steel : 2.5ml anthracite 3:1 ratio still. etc. (http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1/279-0756768-0818937?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=syringes&sprefix=syringes%2Caps - quick search on amazon - syringes) And then, once you have your total volume of paint mixed, add thinner as required to your preferred ratio.
  11. Washing is each to their own - I never have and have not had any problems (yet......). Manufacturers do use special chemicals to aid in the release of the plastic from the moulds when using high pressure injection moulding (I will happily be corrected if I am wrong on that point) and in the instructions some do suggest washing the parts in warm soapy water before painting to remove any trace of these chemicals. In front of me at the moment I have the 1/72 Airfix Blenheim Mk 1 instructions, and Airfix suggest "surfaces to be painted should be clean - before parts are removed from the sprue, wash in warm, soapy water, rinse and dry thoroughly." As I said, I don't and so far not had any disasters. Another alternative, once built, sanded etc. is to give it a quick wipe over with some surface wipes that painters use to prep the surface to remove dust, grime & grease. Without getting too technical (which I cant cause I don't know the technical reasons anyway.....) primer helps the paint bond to the surface of the plastic better. I would assume the primer in some way chemically bonds to the plastic and forms a unified layer that the pigments of the paint layer can adhere to. I'm sure that there are BM members out there that can explain this better that I can, but it is generally a god idea to use a primer of some description. If you are in the UK, a good and convenient source of primer is actually Halfords grey plastic primer. Cheap, and lasts for several models especially as you are only working on 1/72 &1/76 kits as you've mentioned above. However, if you are painting lighter colours (yellow, red, white for example) use a white primer as these colours are harder to cover using a dark primer. I have to say a lot of what I'm saying here has been learned through doing what you are doing - asking questions, on BM, at shows, and occasionally I've popped along to my local modelling club. It's also worth spending time doing some research on google and you-tube. I've also invested in a couple of books - Modelling Scale Aircraft (Osprey Publishing ISBN 978-1-84603-237-0) & Airbrushing and Finishing Scale Models (Osprey Publishing ISBN 978-1-84603-199-1). And of course, lots of magazines. One of them might you Fine Scale Modeller. It's an American magazine, available from WH Smiths, but every so often they run articles on airbrushing for beginners, finishes, washes, etc. Might be worth keeping your eye out. I'm by no means an expert, certainly by the measure f some of the RFI kits on here, but I'm proud of what I build, and proud of how far I've come in the last 3 years compared to where I started out and the comparison between kits built in Jan/Feb 2012 to now is light years apart. We al have to start somewhere, and it's that journey that helps to make the hobby fun!
  12. We all evolve our own strategies. I only do aircraft - WWII and beyond, and Monoplanes only (no bloody rigging that way!!!!!!!!!!) so I mask up as I go along. But I'm getting ahead slightly. Different strategies. Early on, I would prime and paint everything I could whilst on the sprues, then glue it all together and find out what a mess I was making and do a lot of touching up with a brush. Slowly as I got used to the airbrush, I have evolved my methodology. Some I will do on the sprues, but only if they can be attached after the main bits. So now, I will look through the instructions as a whole, and build up sub assemblies (if it is possible), kind of the way they now make ships, and if those bits need internal painting I will do those bits as I go along. If I can, I will build up the cockpit to a certain point (especially if it is a tub construction as it will have sidewalls) and then paint it. adding in detail as I go. The last two kits I have done, were a Dassault Rafale M (Revell 1/48) and I'm in the middle of a FAA Hellcat II (Hobby Boss 1/48). Different ends of the spectrum time wise, but similar approach with the interior painting. Built up the cockpit tub to a point, primed, and airbrushed the overall main colour (grey in the Rafale and interior green in the hellcat) then added the detail colours. When doing the Rafale, had a light bulb moment, use cocktail sticks to add colour to the various switches and buttons (much easier then trying to use a fine brush and gets the paint to exactly where you want to place it). When I'm happy about the way it looks, finish off the interior details, add the seat (unless it's an integral part of the tub construction) button up the fuselage, get the seams done etc, etc. Yes lots more construction to go before painting but I'm skipping ahead to that bit for you as I'm sure you don't want to be bored about how I still don't seem to be able to get invisible seems (damn you all seems!!!!). When priming I currently use Tamiya aerosol primers (fine is better) but, I suffer from Asthma and was only diagnosed this time last year, so I have to try and move away from this or get a spray both. Short term, cheaper option - change primer. So it's been suggested to try Vallejo primers which are polyurethane based. Just bought a small bottle to try, which I will do on the next kit. But I d it in sections (as in painting) - undersides first with the top down so the wings are being supported by a box sides, then when dry the top and sides. As said, I mask up as I go along when painting the exterior. And it does also depend on if I'm doing a German splinter pattern or RAF pattern, or even USAF/USN pattern. I always start with the undersides - most of the time (not always) it tends to be a solid colour (easy life). Acrylics dry quickly. I do allow a couple of hours for this coat to dry. Most often, it only needs one coat. Very rarely, depending on the colour, does it ever need a second coat. I then mask up. This is when it can get awkward. Squiggly patterns need something like blu-tac or similar then you infill with tape or your chosen medium. I go through tons of tape and this is probably the single most expensive consumable used. Then the main colour next. If it's a two tone pattern (eg RAF Dark earth/Dark Green) do the lighter colour first then the darker. It's easier to cover the lighter colour with the darker, rather than the darker with the lighter. Similar process here for masking blu-tac worms (loads of you-tube videos) show how to do it, I've learnt how to free hand (very low pressure, very fine line and narrow aperture on brush). But I do mask up for German splinter patterns as these are very precise straight lines. Once dry, I use Humbrol Clear to gloss coat and seal the paint ready to place the decals. once done, I then don't do another full gloss coat. I tend to only cover the decals themselves with a brushing of clear varnish, do a panel wash (I rarely do any other weathering or chipping etc beyond a wash) and then do a satin coat to seal it all in and finish off. This is only my methodology. Other people do things differently. I personally don't show my models or enter into competitions. No-one in my family knows anything about the aircraft I build except me so I dont bother with super-detailing or going the whole hog and spending 6 to 8 months building in details that will never be seen. Without hijacking the thread - I've attached a couple of pics of one of my latest builds - this was done using the above methods. It's a Tamiya F4U-2 Corsair 1/48
  13. Personally I wouldn't use water - whilst acrylic is water based, acrylic thinners have flow improvers and retardants in them to aid the flow of the paint through the airbrush. The retardant helps to stop the paint from drying as it is atomised as it comes out of the tip. I tried water right at the beginning of my airbrushing, and got horrible results. After that I went with Revell Aqua thinner and then onto Tamiya thinner. Since then, I have stuck to Tamiya for the last 3 years . It's partly through experimentation, and also research (BM, youtube, and reading various magazines) that I came up with the ratio that I use. What a lot of sources say is thin the paint until it's the consistency of thin milk (!) So in other words, no too runny, but not too cloggy (or in goldilocks terms - just right). It takes time. You'll not get it right first time. I didn't, and I'm sure most on here didn't. Take your time, experiment, get a really, really knackered cheap old kit to practice on, that way then if you bugger up the paint job you wont care - it's just for practice. The only two definite things I will say on the matter are : don't use water - use a proper thinner it will be better in the long run (plus the paint will dry quicker once it's on the model!) and also, I have used the Tamiya X20A thinners for nearly 3 years. They work fine in Humbrol, Tamiya (obviously) and even Xtracrylix (Hannants brand acrylic paint). Not so good in Revell Aqua, but fine for the others mentioned. Regards Treker_ed
  14. Well according to Sky News, this is a "Historic Livery Change" to the "Fighter" aircraft that the Red Arrows fly. http://news.sky.com/story/1433625/red-arrows-reveal-historic-tail-fin-redesign Since when was the Hawk Jet Trainer a fighter aircraft? Yet again a rupert murdoch company getting their facts wrong.
  15. I generally use X20 thinners as well for Humbrol and Tamiya acryllic paints. Although I haven't yet used the ultimate thinners or cleaners I can't comment there. In the whole I thin on a 50:50 ratio 50% thinners :50% paint and spray around 20psi. However, i have just got a new compressor so that may change as i get use to the way this new compressor works, but has worked fine in the whole. The thicker paints need a slightly more generous helping of thinners, and vice versa but i always use the above as my starting point.
  16. I have to agree with Max - they don't look right - they shouldn't be "double stacked" they should be in a single row! Here's a good shot of the Lancaster at Duxford IWM
  17. found this on the IPMS usa web site http://web.ipmsusa3.org/quarterly/subjects-index and this http://www.network54.com/Forum/149674/thread/1298081946/?orderid=849401701&moveto=prevtopic and http://www.aviationofjapan.com/ found using Microsofts bing search engine instead of google - Thrick resin not much help I appreciate, but a starting point.
  18. Okay stupid question time! I have two different types of crowns for my airbrush - one is a solid circular type and the other is a crenelated type (looking more like a crown). Do they have different uses, and different coverage ie does the circular type have a wider spread pattern when spraying than the other and thus is more suitable when using on a much larger kit? Help and guidance greatly appreciated.
  19. Air Cadet Publication no 34 being quoted now then.......... Long time since I read that book for my Air Training Corps exams, way back in the mid to late 80's. But still a very good source of information for questions like this.
  20. If I remember correctly (although I may be proved wrong) when referring to an aircrafts designation and capability, the term "strike" generally referred to a nuclear carrying role. Once that role was transferred to the Royal Navy and thence the submarine service, there was no need for the term in an aircraft designation so it was slowly "lost" as a designator. Hence why the Harrier went from FRS.1 to FA.2 because it lost its strike role (plus we didn't really have the air dropped, free fall nukes anymore by that point!)
  21. treker_ed

    Airbrush Primer

    Thanks to all the contributors - I haven't quite got a final answer to the original question but has provided a good hint at which direction I need to be heading in. Can the mods please close the thread as there seems to be a fair amount of thread creep heading in other directions. Thanks
  22. Nice to see that the experts at the Smithsonian couldn't come up with a better word to describe the upper wing camouflage pattern apart from what we have been calling it all these years, the "squiggle" pattern! Priceless.
  23. Tried searching - nothing came up and I did vary the search parameters quite a bit, not exactly a newbie when it comes to computers and/or searching. Anyway, thanks for the pointer, Suffice it to say, they are not exactly designed to be installed in the up position (not easily looking at that link and not without a fair bit of plastic card either). Thankfully not at that stage yet, so I have some time to decide. Thanks for the info.
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