AnonymousAA72

Thanks for letting me join in, albeit a bit late in the day.... My effort will be a 1/72nd scale T8, mots likely in LACG and Dayglo from FRADU in the early 80's..maybe? The Hunter twin stickers haven't been well served in terms of plastic kits...apart from Matchboxes old effort. There has been a few conversion sets, mostly aimed at the old Airfix or even Frog kit, and more recently for the super-duper Revell kits. We have also had a few resin kits, an early issue being the old Skybird 86 kit, and more recently the Pro-Resin kit, which I'm using here. I bought the "export" version T66/T66A/T66B/T68 in error! This version had the twin Aden pods and a series 200 rear end, so for a T8 or T7 both areas needed modifying,..... The kit itself is nicely tooled...the parts are VERY similar to the Revell kit.....In fact they are identical! I willbe using an Aeroclub undercarriage set though...I don't trust resin undercarriages! Nice decal sheet too......

Hi Chris, thanks! Manshed has taken a bit if a back- burner status. I dislocated my shoulder a couple of months ago, so am very limited to what modelling I can manage! A bit frustrating to say the least!

Thanks for that Bob, the late Les Bywater's Canberra website and John's Canberra SIG are constant sources of references and inspiration....highly recommended.....

Bit of an update.... I have the wings on, and I've used Freightdog's superb resin intakes to replace those in the kit... I have used the kits wheel wells, which are adequate. You may just see poking out of the corner te kit's "gun-pack". I will be replacing that with an Aviation Workshop resin pack - which I purchased off of the Big H yesterday! I'll be using the same firm's resin pylons and practise bomblets.... Flaps will be deployed; These had slight returns on them so they fitted flush with the upper surfaces. The recesses for these have been added from plastic card, where I had removed the kits plastic by over zealous sanding! And here's the beast, as she sits currently. The rudder's not fixed on yet, next job after that will be to add the ejection seat, then the canopy. Seal that down, add the nose glazing, then the gun pack....and then undercoat time!!!

Always good to see some colour on John.......

No, not that I'm aware of anyway. Shouldn't be that difficult to knock one up though, I've done it in both 1/72 and 1/48 by removing the nose cap, extending the length with plastic rod then milliputing it, and sanding to the correct shape. Camera Windows cut out and glazed with Krystal Kleer, don't forget side camera ports were at different levels.

All of my references state Signal Red. Post Office Red/Cherry Red is the colour used in the national markings. It's slightly richer and deeper than signal red and is the colour of a Royal Mail post box. HU.19 used to be a good match. Signal Red was/is used on most if not all training types, including the Red Arrows, and as part of the 'Raspberry Ripple' scheme. Xtracolor/xtracrylic's shade appears to be a bit too orange for my liking, but Humbrols 174 looks spot on , in John's Hunter T7 above. The colours used on the ACT Jag., may not be standard, certainly the blue used is much lighter than the prescribed 'Oxford Blue"

A bit late in the day, I know, but but today I started to build a 1/72nd T8, am I able to join in? I do promise I'll try to finish it!

Some T7's did have wide breathers, though I'll be using a set of Airfix Narrow breathers on my T7.

Mostly those with WKxxx and WLxxx serials....

..."and do a bit of work with them" lol!!! Each to their own of course, but in reply to the OP's question, i.e is the kit that bad, the answer is yes, or no, or somewhere in between, depending on your own modelling mantra!. The Matchbox Victor looks like a Victor, it can"t be mistaken for anything else, and at £10-£15 is a good price for anyone happy with this route, and more power to their elbows! For those that want just a little bit more from their modelling, then Melchie"s list above demonstrates where those improvements can be made. Of course you don't have to follow each and every itemised improvement. Pick and choose depending on your ambition and ability. For those wanting to improve the kit with aftermarket items such as the Flightpath sets I used, then expect to add another £30 or so to the cost, that then starts bringing the price closer to that proposed by Airfix.... And then of course we have Airfix's new Victor, Its not going to be cheap, and I do wish that Airfix would cut out all of the internal gubbins that can't be seen once the fuselage is buttoned up - to keep the price down, but in the same way that Airfix" Shack is a vast improvement on the old Frog/Revell Shack, i expect Airfix's Victor to be he same compared to Matchbox's 30 year old kit. We shall see..... Ultimately, we should be grateful to Matchbox and Revell, plasticard and Milliput, Flightpath and Airfix for enabling us to choose our own way of building the Victor! i wish we had a similar scenario for the Vulcan!

I am sooooo looking forward to Airfix's Victor....I'm saving for one or two now......

Lol Nige! ...I think it is do-able, just that I didn't approach it correctly! I had already removed the flaps from the Revell wing which I seem to recall meant there was little room for joining the wing lower to the fuselage. .....I'd say that Tony's suggestion of just chopping out the leading edge COULD work, but the slats would have to be adjusted so they pointed ahead rather than at an angle..... I will try the method I outlined above, I have an Academy kit ready to be butchered...just need to finish of a couple of projects first.... One thing to note on slatted wing Sabres, there was very little in the way of a recess where the slats close. I can't remember if the Revell wing features deep recesses..... I also have a Kinetic 1/32nd kit with a 'hard' 6-3 wing.....that's a candidate for some butchery too........

Should be relatively easy to tease them down a little.....

Yes indeed, and a couple sadly no longer with us......

Very nice indeed.....superb paint job as ever........it may be the angle of the photo's but i'd check the anhedral on the tailplanes.....they look a bit "straight" in the pic"s!

Sage advice? Well, my track record on converting a Sabre to a slat winged version has proved to be less than successful thus far! I am less than confident that my cut n'shut "approach" will work any better......but we shall see!

Oh, I've tried that Tony! Been there, book read,T-shirt purchased, after I had managed to screw up the wing swap.! Problem was that both kits wings sweep back at different angles, so the deployed slats would toe outwards (I think, it was a decade or so ago!) a bit too much for my liking. So I gave up on that one. I did have an airwaves resin conversion set, so decided to break that out. That worked okay, except one of the resin pieces was warped, no problem, thought I. It's resin, hot water will sort that out...did it bollo! It's still on the shelf of doom somewhere...and will probably stay there....... Next time I hear you say...... Take one Academy (cheaper than Hasegawa, and just as good IMHO) wing ( well all four pieces). Centre span draw a line from root to tip. A scale 6" in front of this line at the root , mark another point , a scale 3" from the tip, make another mark. Draw a line to join these two points up.You should have a triangular shaped wedge. Cut this out. Rejoin front and rear sections. ( alternatively, you could just remove a scale 6" from the leading edge at the root, and 3" at the tip and just remove that, and sand back to aero foil section if the plastic is thick enough?) Mark out the slat area on the leading edge. Protect surrounding plastic with Dymo tape and file a recess into the upper wing and below. Add plastic card slat actuators, leading edge of new slat can be made from D shaped rod, with plastic card upper slat. Sand to shape...... In fact I may start one when my current build is finished..... Or just build one with a 6-3 wing........

Amazing work Hendie. You have a great eye for detail, and the skill to reproduce that in miniature form, very impressive.....well done!

Hi Nige, never knew about the Scobie-Do set, sounds interesting....regarding using F86D wings, I did try that one, using the wings from the Revell/monogram kit on the Academy kit. It didn't work out too well as the wing sweep angles were different, and form memory there were problems with the wing root join to fuselage, and wheel well bays. I daresay it is do-able, but not straight-forward.

Very nice indeed.......l

Previously discussed here...... http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234938015-f-86f-30-to-raf-sabre-mk4/page-3 Doing a quick google search, there are plenty of threads on here regarding the RAF's use of the Sabre....

Not a simple answer coming your way...but basically and briefly (!) MOST, but not all Sabres were delivered to the RAF with slatted wings. Some of these were converted to the 6-3 wing, and the last batch or so delivered were done so with 6-3 wings. I haven't got the figures here, but I'd recommend Duncan Curtis's book on the subject........ Delivered in NMF, some having red panels on wings and tail for delivery, they were subsequently painted in RAF standard Dark Green and Dark Sea Grey upper surfaces. Those destined to fly in the UK had high speed silver painted lower surfaces, those destined for RAF Germany had PRU blue lower surfaces. There were of course anomalies as aircraft were swapped around. Cockpits were black. Academy And Hasegawa kits can be built OOB for a 6-3 winged jet, nothing OOB for a slat winged plane. Airwaves(Hannants) issued a conversion set some time ago.

I see your build has been stalled for some time Will!!! For anyone else contemplating builing an Mk 8, some useful notes/observations here.... http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/28622-ee-canberra-bi8-corrections/page-5?hl=canberra

Thanks for that Bob, I'll have a trawl around....shame Alley Cats/Atozee only did the resin 'goldfish' bowls canopy's....l