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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/14/2019 in all areas

  1. 27 points
    Dear members, Like many other modellers, I admired John's Aero diarama of Stackton Aerodrome. I thought this was a good opportunity to add an old model, when I just started to build in scratch. I did some homework, because it is a long time ago I build this model. Of course in pre- internet days, we had only books and magazines. From a Scale Models Magazine, October 1980 , I used the 3-view drawings as starting point, further I used Profile Nr.144. As times literally flies... To revive the old times, here, I hope you like the photographs, With kind greetings, JohnHaa
  2. 13 points
    This is a bit special for me, the kit is a gift from my 13 year old son for Farther Day. He dragged his mother off to our LHS and chose and paid for it himself. Mum suggested cheaper kits but he said that "he knew what Dad likes" It is the current Airfix kit with added seat belts and decals from the stash. It represents one of 485 Squadrons non presentation marked machines as I had no tiny letters suitable. Most of the early machines were so marked and were Dark Green/Dark Earth so this is a bit of a compromise on my part. He's never been interested in modelling, unlike his big sister, but recently he's built VW Beetle and has another Tamiya vehicle to build. Thanks for looking
  3. 8 points
    I think for prop jobs the static props on a 'flying' model can look unnatural and some of the 'prop blur' accessories aren't very 'lifelike' either. This may put some people off, but for me - if I'm going 'wheels up' I simply chop the props off and fill the holes. There is no right or wrong - just what you fancy. I make my own stands and use clear rods with a tiny needle in the end - leaving the hole in the base of the aircraft virtually invisible. At the end of the day - it's just a bit of fun - so whichever way you go - just enjoy yourself. Steve
  4. 7 points
    Modellers are obsessed with detail. Undercarriages, and bays are full of detail. Aeroplane modellers always moan that they can't paint figures * sweeping generalizations *
  5. 6 points
    Hi All, As I havent been thrown off yet for sharing my dios for the first time here's another.... Airfix Tiger, scratched oil cart. I love the fact that the Air Ministry commanded EFTS aircraft to be camouflaged but the then CAA commanded they must still wear their registration, completely defeating the object... In a new technique for me I copied the original photo onto decal paper (from Mr Decal Paper off ebay) to add to the base. 48046794_10155949520090976_7126370880401178624_n by Ben Brown, on Flickr ATB TT
  6. 5 points
    Praise indeed from someone working at the other end of the spectrum and doing some serious modelling extremely well When the Telford Season is over Only 359 days until the next one It was good to catch up with you all and see your masterpieces in the flesh. . . . I left for Telford not happy with the display of my 'Bare Bones'RM So I've been playing with ideas Was going to be cleaned up and painted wood The idea was to continue and make it rock like But it wasn't floating my boat/sinking my wreck ............. I needed to gain more space for something to come ...... Height just made it bulky so Still a work in progress but much happier now Thanks for stopping by Kev
  7. 4 points
    This was my 2nd bike build, and must admit I have been well and truly bitten by the bike building bug, building cars is still my favourite, but I do love all the intricate details on the bikes, and strangely enough I enjoy all the pipework. As always being a Tamiya kit, it goes together really well with no issues, it has been painted with a mixture of Halfords Automotive rattle cans, vallejo and tamiya acrylic paints. Hope you enjoy.
  8. 4 points
    Hello Dears ! Just a few teasing words, I finished her yesterday but SWMBO was working on the PC Then this Morning, I had to go to work, but I can't wait to share a bit with you !! There's been a load of work on the beast !! And as usual, I'm not glad about my painting I know that the real things are generally not finished as neatly as a Michaelangelo masterpiece but …. So, we are back in Korea, back in late '50 Aaaand Back aboard HMS Triumph (Once again ?? ) Paints are a mix of Mr Color and Xtracrylics, stripes are Lifecolors though! Ojk Gents, back at the PC around 15hr for the follow up !! Must earn some pounds or Euro whatever !! See you soon ! CC
  9. 4 points
    UPDATE 01: Hi Pals, Some progress with the kit, starting with the undercarriage. I have seen that in the part that simulates rubber, there is a small review, which at first I did not see, because it was tiny. A nice touch, but that surely won't be seen when we are weathered. I did not like too much, the union of the bogies to the hull, very inconsistent, and therefore, easy that the entire set is not aligned. I had to wait to be sure that I was well held, because I have dropped some. Adjustment of the supports of the side skirts also, and finally an approach to the tracks, which combine the toothed supports, with a hole in which the rubber shoe is inserted, IMHO work, unnecessary, because they could come perfectly in one piece . When I have done some already, I have seen that they are numbered, very cool, but I do not see the real utility, because they are all the same and knowing the number per track ... I will continue with the tracks, which surely give me a lot of "fun" ... lol Sooner (I hope) ... Cheers to all.
  10. 4 points
    By 'eck, that was a quick two weeks, what a full itinerary and entertaining travelog. Bet you're a bit cream crackered, Ced !! Hate to think what the guys excess baggage costs would have been.......! Thank you [all] for a most entertaining and amusing thread. Rog
  11. 3 points
    Greetings! This model is released by the Japanese company Aoshima and is the prototype of the serial model Type 16. A production car called Type 16 entered service recently. Having adopted this type of equipment, the Japanese decided to increase the mobility of tank formations. It should be noted that tank destroyers as a class lead their history from the Second World War, including wheeled ones. An inherent advantage of wheeled fighters is mobility, high speed of movement, reliability of wheeled chassis and low cost of production. The downside here is thin armor. The model was assembled last year, and since I'm new to the forum, I am posting it now. Wish you friends a pleasant viewing!
  12. 3 points
    You should listen in to yesterdays Jeremy Vine show, Rod phoned in when JV insinuated that the layout was not all Rod's work, Rod was most insistent that it is, although he admits to seeking help with the electronics side, building construction and weathering is his forte apparently. Not only did Rod phone in but he was then joined by Jools Holland and the pair of them just went full hog into a conversation about weathering etc. Steve Lamacq was also on as it turns out he's a model railway guy too. You can listen to the show on the BBC Sounds app, the Rod bit begins about 30 minutes in, alternatively if you have facebook, check this link out on the BBC R2 page:
  13. 3 points
    New boxing announced - ref. KH80105 V2.0 - SEPECAT Jaguar T.2/T.4 & MHU-83 Source: https://tieba.baidu.com/p/6340123594 V.P.
  14. 3 points
    Last one for a while.... this was supposed to show the conditions at Sywell's RLG at Denton/Brafield which only had a couple of huts and blister hangars. One of the guys who worked there was a Sywell Aviation Museum Trustee and always remarked on how bloomin cold it was (he drove the Thompson Refueller - and thats him at the front holding a spanner - RIP Eric) Amera blister hangar (I wish they would do the front of a T2) and Airfix moths - the Thompson was a (quite expensive) white metal kit I forget where from, but you're better off buying the Oxford one for £8 and weathering it - its more accurate too) and the old Airfix ambulance.... The idea was to show a hoar frost over the aeroplanes and hangar - I'm not sure how successful I was at managing that! ATB TT 10999261_10152628938070976_1279459393081264739_o by Ben Brown, on Flickr 10991555_10152628938370976_2982966484854794969_o by Ben Brown, on Flickr 10382430_10152628938205976_7700442778560619391_o by Ben Brown, on Flickr
  15. 3 points
    Hi John. Thank you for your kind words. Last night during the photo shoot the battery ran out so now. I can show the entire bottom. The weathering and dirt has been worked as before but I have also used a light green and a dark gray of Vallejo MC in some places. This time, in one of the photos, I have referenced a coin. Regards. Andrés.
  16. 3 points
    And the walls of the Jaguar factory still bear traces of 1939 camo paintworks This being of course where so many Lancasters and Spitfires began their defence of the realm
  17. 2 points
    Brings back memories of Hucknall Air shows as I've flown in both a Derby Airways Dakota G- ANTD (Dovedale) and a Marathon (Millersdale I think). The Civil thread gets so little use until some interesting pieces like this come along. There was a Contrail Marathon kit. and a horrid 144 vac from a company in Lancashire IIRC. John
  18. 2 points
  19. 2 points
    From my point of view, and it’s a personal one, I build wheels down because I like the fussiness of everything below my models. It also makes it slightly easier to display and photograph the models. I am quite keen to develop dioramas for display and photography. I don’t have anywhere to sensibly hang models, though I have to admit adding stands or supports would effectively double my current display cabinet's space! All that being said, I do like to see imaginative displays of aircraft in flight. I’m not so keen on a clunky looking stand, though. There is an argument to be made that most aircraft spend most of their lives on the ground, so building and displaying models on the deck is quite reasonable!
  20. 2 points
    I was able to close off the landing gear, but in doing so I've been the struts on both sides, not sure what looked better, I think the latter does not!
  21. 2 points
    As well as Fairford, I've seen it at it's home test base at Gelendzhik on the Black Sea..... It is a stunning sight..... In formation with the smaller Be-200.... Ken
  22. 2 points
    It is a great roundabout at castle Bromwich.... that is a busy itinerary but it must have been fun. hope all arrive home safe! Rob
  23. 2 points
    Hello! Just finished some basic work with the tracks and the tank: Fortunately, the tracks weren’t needed a lot of work except sanding an ejector pin marks (yes - just sanding and not filling) and removing a little bit of seam lines (very small, I must say). An empty sprues glued together and now it’s an alignment for the tracks assembly: Wise engineering, isn’t it? The tracks come together well and the best fit can be achieved after application of an Extra Thin cement (later): Thanks for looking!
  24. 2 points
    Thanks everybody. I haven't got a clue what it will weigh once it's done, but at the moment the hull weighs about 45kg. In the meantime the planking of the hull has progressed, only some small areas beneath the waterline need to be taken care of. While the hull is still upright I'm hammering wooden treenails into the hull. My sons now are on their School holidays so they can help me: foto hochladen I have finally decided how the paint the hull: with Oils. A tube of Burnt Sienna was mixed with a tube of Van Dyk Brown and this was thinned with turps. I'm pleased with the result: foto hochladen Here are some close-ups. Heavy round- and flat-headed bolts are also being driven into the hull. This was a characteristic feature on Dutch 17th Century warships. foto hochladen foto hochladen More soon so stay tuned! Thanks Peter
  25. 1 point
    Hi everybody, while fiddling about with the track links of the AT-T artillery tractor I started a parallel project as a relief from frust and slow progress. I chose the Panhard VBL from Tiger Model, a small french reconnaissance vehicle. This is a very nicely detailed kit with a good fit of the parts. There are some ejector pin marks you have to take care of, because they are in places that you will probably see. No big problem at all. I started with the interior of the crew cabin as per instructions. The colors I used are Revell Aquacolor 06 (Anthracite), 09 (Teerschwarz), 65 (bronce green), 46 (NATO-olive) and Gunze H405 olive green. The hoses on both sides of the central panel are drybrushed with Aluminium. That's how far I got: Thanks for looking! Suggestions and critiques are always welcome. Have a nice day Nick
  26. 1 point
    Hello, friends! While the clear coat drying on my Hind E, I decided to start a new - and very unusual for me - build. I choose this kit just because I like the shapes of that tank! Also, my wife asked me to build something not aircraft-related and I got this box during the pre-sale from ARMA-MODELS.RU with some additional features: the brass barrels, brass wire, photo etched set, two paint jars (4BO and Whitewash), antennae, an air horn and the Fido (Sharik). So, here is the box: A lot of the stuff inside: The Runner A: The Runner B: The Runners C, D and G (ah, I noticed some ejector pin marks on the tracks): The Runner F: An instruction sheet, the color call-out and the Runner E with a clear parts along with the decals and wire: And finally, some additional aftermarket upgrades: I think I need to start from cutting the tracks off the sprues, so that’s all for today!
  27. 1 point
    And when you next see her 1988 cousin, a snap for old times' sake would be good too! (If cameras are allowed in the more sensitive areas of the shelf of doom, of course.)
  28. 1 point
    Ah dripping submariner All good stuff shippers....
  29. 1 point
    Nice start Francis, nothing not to like about the old Chiefy so I’m looking forward to seeing this one shape up. Regards Dan
  30. 1 point
    That's just superb . . . a beautiful model of my favourite airplane .
  31. 1 point
    Looks very nice, like me a lot.... Cheers Dan
  32. 1 point
    Hello Stix, thank you for looking and warm comment!
  33. 1 point
    Gidday, so they can't be made to fire then? Pity. Regards, Jeff.
  34. 1 point
    I'm listening to the LP that I bought earlier today. 2012 pressing.
  35. 1 point
    I especially like the Thunderbolt did you use magnets on the stand and fusalage?
  36. 1 point
    Thanks Stix, far to kind, I think luck has an awful lot to do with it, not to mention shamelessly pinching other folks ideas/techniques! (Best not get too carried away, plenty of opportunities to screw up the Firefly yet!) Thanks again Darryl
  37. 1 point
    Cracking work, looks great
  38. 1 point
    Latest off the bench (one of those I will make it one day kits) is the Revell 1/48 F86 D Sabre Dog kit. Markings by Cutting Edge. Yes there are meant to decals on the wing tanks BUT the tanks are different and the decals do not fit this tank...…. oh hum. Great little kit for the money.. enough to make a reasonable model but also potential for super detailing if wanted. Totally recommended. Enough blabbing and on to the photo's. Please feel fee to comment and thanks for taking the time to look. Cheers Dick
  39. 1 point
    Time for an update, added the Bobstay plates with links Then carved the star out of boxwood Was looking at a picture of the real Bluenose and I noticed the back mooring chock had a lip around it so went back to the drawings and it is not mentioned so I took a piece of boxwood and made two, image it to help with my model please delete if this is not allowed. This is what I had And this is what I have done Masked the bottom sanded and repainted it to be close to copper Red Once this was dried masked the top and painted white Now got the black painted That's it for now Regards Richard
  40. 1 point
    Box art - 1/72nd - ref. 7214 - Bombardier CRJ-700 Sources: http://bigplaneskits.com/shop/uncategorized/crj-700-1-72/ https://hobbyterra.com/product/plastic-model-1-72-bombardier-crj-700-lufthansa-regional-big-planes-kits-7214.html V.P.
  41. 1 point
    Hello Robert, very good start on both these kits! The Dragon one has an interior and looks very detailed, as I see... Yes, looks like this. I can’t comment on it yet - maybe it’s all about some modifications or just the missing detail. Anyway, I just finished some work... I’m not a sculpting wizard, but rolled up the dough and made the tarp: Also I dry fit the belts to be sure that the tarp shaped well enough: It’s not something special, but it’s not worse than the original kit part. What you think about it? OK, let’s leave it for a few days and then see! Thanks for an interest in my build!
  42. 1 point
    Molotow Chrome ink pens are excellent - artist's supply shops, or possibly eBay, carry them: https://www.molotow.com/en/applications/marker-applications/liquid-chrome/
  43. 1 point
    It’s time for a small update... I glued a few PE parts on an upper hull - a very small but nice addition: The net wasn’t looking so nice, so I decided to rumple it a bit; now it looks more natural: The turret received it’s small details (not all, yet): Further were the torsion bars, not a lot but why not to glue them now? Not bad, but still needs some treatment: That’s all for now!
  44. 1 point
    So after a break of a few years I am back onto the Rolls-Royce PII, photo below shows progress to date- Sadly I am not able to afford the super upgrades available, esp the leaf springs, so will plod on with the original parts. I plan on displaying the car on stands to prevent the kit springs from sagging over time. IMG_20190526_184041 by Wayne, on Flickr IMG_20190526_184046 by Wayne, on Flickr IMG_20190526_184053 by Wayne, on Flickr
  45. 1 point
    Hello Gents, Okay !! I've a bit of time since SWMBO will use the PC for giving her first webinar !! I say "a contender" since the kit is not an easy one... Far far far away from a shake and bake !! Lots of things to correct or create !! But a the time, it was the only way to have an almost accurate 1/48 Firefly ! Now, I wanted Something special, since I have the Grand Phoenix Firefly wich is exactly the same kit Under another brand !! I will make the other one as a BPF bird ! That's why I choose this paint scheme, but can make a TSS paint scheme with post war roundels AND Korea stripes… A really tempting one Indeed !! The resin cockpit just need a bit of improvement but look good anyway ! As it has been said numerous times, wheels, props and spinner, and the transparencies are to be replaced. Landing gear can be improved a bit too, I choose this armament scheme 'cause I find it spectacular ! And it seem to be used oftenly against North Korean targets !! Must been a hefty of a punch !! Wow weathering is restrained since the aircraft were well maintained but on the other hand, it was WW II aircrafts... I hope that I stay balanced on this one ! wheels are from Barracuda cast !! Top Notch I must say !
  46. 1 point
    Dear fellow Britmodellers, after a longer absence from the workbench I'm reporting back-in-charge with my 1/72 Airfix Wellington IC! I used Eduard's interior set, Quickboost wheels and DK Decals, representing an aircraft from 311. (Czech) Squadron in 1943. All photographs by Wolfgang Rabel.  I decided to install all the interior parts, literally recreating the aircraft from top to bottom. This process takes up most of the construction time, but you will be rewarded with a very detailed inside. Of course, you won't see much once the fuselage is closed. The model was painted with Gunze/Mr.Hobby acrylics. I am not very happy with my paint job, I should have paid more attention to pre- and post-shading, as the surface looks a bit plain and boring. Even the crew's entry ladder is supplied by the kit. Superb rendition of the FN turrets. Open side windows on the canopy - another nice feature of the kit:  The bomb bay can be posed open or closed, and six bombs are supplied. That leaves the middle bomb bay empty. I added three bombs, borrowed from an Eduard 1/72 Spitfire kit. The red rings are airbrushed, using small strips of Tamiya masking tape.  And I forgot to peel the center mask off the bombardier's windows…. ! Scratches on the engine housings were replicated with a soft pencil. Airfix' wheels are slightly oversized and were replaced with resin items from Quickboost. The triangle-shaped waist gun windows are included on the sprues, although the instruction sequence does not mention them. The guns are included as well. Thank you for your interest, best greetings from Vienna.
  47. 1 point
    So here they are. Three sideview drawings of the IL-10 forward fuselage, all to the same scale. Upper horizontal red line is fuselage datum line, lower red line is thrust line (parallel one to another, some 7" apart). Green vertical lines are spaced at 40cm apart (except for the last ones on the right, where "nothing happens", so 50 or 60cm distance is enough). Top row of red numbers is distance in cm from fuselage front wall, middle one is height of fuselage upper contour above the (horizontal) side cowling panel hinge line. Data in parentheses appears in mid-fuselage part, where the horizontal line runs 13cm (~5") higher. Bottom row of red numbers is vertical distance between fuselage lower contour and the mentioned side cowling panel hinge line. First is the drawing by Muratov, published in Soviet Krylia Rodiny aviation monthly and used (perhaps) as the base for vintage KzP and recent Fly 1/72 kits. Next is another Russian drawing, published in Modelist - Konstruktor Soviet modellers monthly. It's incredible how different does the same plane look here. And this is not just a visual illusion - look at the numbers describing the outline shape. This is the drawing I have used in my analysis of the Fly kit last month - I thought it's OK. But it isn't, too... As there's no chance that "good" drawings could differ so much I decided to take the measurements from the real Il-10 myself. Today we (with JWM) went to the Polish Aviation Museum and the effect of our two-hour job is below: Thus neither of these published drawings is good - one nose is too pointed, another has both red lines too high (upper contour too horizontal, lower too convex). In the end I tried (although the result is mediocre) to place the Fly port fuselage half on my laptop screen with my drawing scaled to 1/72. Of course with some help of the software you have you can do it yourself to see it better. Anyway the vertical section of fuselage at stations 80 and 120 is full 1mm too low and the cockpit canopy is a full 1mm too high. And these are only the major faults... For those who like exact numbers: the pilot side window is 26cm long and 30cm high - should be 3.6 and 4.2mm respectively. The kit features 4.1 and 5.8 (!) mm. And there is more than one Il-10 existing till today in Czech Republic. Pity Cheers Michael
  48. 1 point
    A bit more progress on the base. The barbed wire stanchions were painted 56 Aluminium then washed with 33 Matt Black and 160 German Camouflage Red Brown. They've really vanished into the background quite effectively. I've also started adding bits and pieces of abandoned kit, just a helmet and pack so far but I'll add more. My son has given me a sprue from the ICM British Infantry set which has useful bits and pieces on it that can be pressed into service. The helmet was painted 158 Interior Green and the pack 94 Brown Yellow, before getting a couple of thinned washes of 173 Track Colour which toned them down nicely. John
  49. 1 point
    If I'm approximately correct in my dates, it's 100 years ago either yesterday or today that Grandpa was wounded. An exploding artillery shell sent shrapnel into his right thigh and left hand, shattering part of his thigh bone and blowing him into a shell hole. He managed to get his field dressing on to his leg wound and, eventually, he was rescued by stretcher bearers. He was sent to a clearing station and then a military hospital, where his wounds were operated on. On April 28th he was evacuated from France to St Andrew's military hospital in Dollis Hill, London. He stayed there for 6 months of therapy and recuperation. One of the excercises he was given to build up his wounded hand was to embroider his regimental badge: His initials and the date are in the bottom corner. He was discharged from the army on 1st November 1917 and sent home: He attended the local hospital in Falkirk to have his wounds dressed and was one of the early patients at Erskine Hospital where he was fitted for boots with a special buit-up sole on the right. However Grandpa was never one to sit around and by the summer of 1918 he was back at work with Falkirk Iron Company making, among other things, artillery shells! He's second from the left here: His wounded hand is behind his back, as it often would be in photos, and you can make out his built up boot sole. Grandpa and me, 1962: John
  50. 1 point
    Thanks a lot Folks! I'm glad you like it! :-) I've spent the past few weeks working on the main gundeck and I got a little tired of fitting in deckbeams and knees and the rest so last week I decided to carry on with the hull planking.The planks are six millimeters thick so some of them need to be soaked in water before bending. They are then heated with an industrial hot-air-blower whilst getting them into shape. I drew the plank seams onto the hull a while ago and the lines now assist me when cutting out the planks from oak blocks. Here you can see how it is done: Small cardboard snippets are tacked to the hull using the Planks that are already in place as guides. Once each snippet is in place the plank seam is drawn on it. Cardboard templates for every plank are made this way. Yes it is laborious and tedious but the advantage is that I have control of every line of each plank. The result is great! Once the planks are on the hull and the glue has dried all I need to do is sand the planks and hardly any seams are visible. This is what a card template looks like when removed from the hull. It can now the used to transfer the shape onto oak wood. Especially at the curved bow many individual planks are required to plank the hull. Here a small plank has been shaped with water and hot air and is now tacked to the hull and left to dry. Large planks amidships present no problems, These don't need to be heated, they are glued to the hull and once the glue has dried the clamps can be removed and the hull sanded. Looking good: Peter
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