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Hi all This is Airfix's 1/72 Harrier Gr.7 built straight from the box using A PJ products pilot. I sure hope to see these on the market again soon as i'm running out, and Maverick missiles and pylons from a Revell Hunter. Also for comparison a Harrier Gr.3 in a similar camouflage, in the pictures are the Revell HAS, Airfix/JB Bedford bowser, Oxford miniatures lightweight LandRover and a few figures from Italeri's ground crew set. The has or vehicles are not quite 72nd scale but they are good enough for me. Hope you like it. Regards Glenn.

This is my kitbashed 1/72 Wellington mk IV. It's mostly the Trumpeter Mk.III kit, but it has the MPM engines and tails. It has the MPM landing gear legs, which are a little bit wider. Additionally, it has an Airfix windscreen and an Airfix rear turret. I reworked the Trumpeter mk III tail section to accomodate the earlier turret type. I also gave it a set of Pratt & Whitney engines from the Eduard Brassin set for the Airfix B-24H. The whole thing was painted with ATOM paints from AMMO - which really are wonderful. They have all the advantages of a water-based acrylic, and hardly any of the disadvantages. The only problem with them is that their suggested colours for Dark Earth and Dark Green were not suitable, so I spent a lot of time mixing my own. Build details and aircraft history in the build thread here: Anyway, on to the pictures! Thanks for looking! Comments are always welcome!

Just completed my Monogram ProModeler F-4E. It is the Hasegawa E with the J kit "hard wings", i.e. no leading edge slats. Overall not a bad kit for its age, but the Hasegawa molds were getting old by the time these kits were produced. Here is the build thread: The inspiration for the build was this photo, posted on the F-4 google group that I frequent. It is also on the Phantom (or maybe the 388th TFW) Wikipedia page, so not copywrited I guess. Here is my interpretation in 1/48th. Paints are a mix of different brands because I didn't have all of the colors in one brand. FS 34079 dark green and 34102 medium green are Hataka lacquers. FS 30219 tan is a mix of Testors Model Master enamel FS 30219 and ~40% flat white to lighten it up. The underside FS 36622 light gray is Vallejo White Gray acrylic. The Hataka lacquers are easy to work with and cover very well, but I didn't have the tan or light gray that I liked. Metal areas on the tail are Vallejo metal color acrylics. Decals are likewise a mix of kit decals, which worked ok, Caracal star and bar insignia, and on the tail Aeromaster "JV", Detail & Scale "AF 70" and another white number set for the "301". If the weather was better here in the Pacific Northwest today I would have taken some photos outside, but we have low overcast and steady rain. Maybe next week I can take it outside. External stores are the kit AIM-7 in the left forward missile well, Royal Jet 600 gal centerline tank, Hasegawa weapons set AGM-112 Bullpups on the wing inboard pylons and outboard MERs with Eduard SUU-30 cluster bomb units. The CBUs aren't actually correct per the source photo, but as close as I could find last year. I just saw a couple of weeks ago the 48ers had a set that were correct, with the flat plates on the tips of the tail fins. Forgot who makes them... A couple of notes on the above photo: The camo on some of the USAF jets wrapped around the leading edge of the wings a bit. I opted for that here. Also, since the Hasegawa intakes just end, rather than paint them black I went with white and made some engine compressor face drawings on the computer and glued them inside against the back wall. Almost looks like engines back there. I did this on a Hasegawa F-16 several years ago and it looked ok. In the real world the engines put out a lot of black smoke and the soot blanketed the tail. I just sprayed some diluted flat black behind and under the nozzles and stabs. No need to fancy it up with heat-stressed metallic golds and blues. Questions and comments welcome. Thanks for following along.

I have been building this one in conjunction with a Hase 1/32 George to take up some idle time.The cold war jets really interest me being they each had a unique design.The kit is your typical Tamiya kit fit is perfect moldings are very Nice.I enjoyed much of the build until the last coats on Alclad Light Sheen were applied the plane retained a very Nice luster prior to that but the last coat flattened ever so slightly making my effort to panel wash kinda disappear.The base coat was Tamiya Semi-Black Acrylic,Alclad 101 and all the hatches was Alclad Dull Silver 117(?).I hope it is of interest to you fellas and cannot recommend the kit high enough.The first pic was before the final clears.

More swings and roundabouts - or should that be swings and misses? Happy that all the markings are now done. My home brew serials were a bit of a disaster, so I’ve fallen back on the kit stickers for them and the Polish chequerboard. Not happy with their very glossy top coat, so I hope a couple of light matt varnish coats will deal with that. Gah! Ruddy silvering! Oh, well, could be worse. I’ll apply the usual remedies when the varnish has hardened off. On track, hopefully, to complete the build this weekend.

Hi all, sharing a recent build of one of my favorite WWII era aircraft. Of all the types, Ive always loved the Typhoon, all marks, all door types and any scheme. This is straight from the box and was a delight to build. The only changes were some seatbelt harnesses and a few cockpit bits. The only problem were the dekals. I really do not know what happened but several just split apart and literally disintegrated upon application. This was befoire any solvent was applied like Micro SOL and SET. I know the kit is old but ive never seen this. When i was air brushing the final matt coat some of the invasion stripes just blew off the kit . Then after the matt coat (Alclad) the edges of some of the roundels frosted or silvered. None of this was showing when they were applied over the gloss coat so it kind of ruined some of the features. Nonetheless, im very happy with it and look forward to adding to my WWII builds.

My latest completion. Fortieth in my Fleet Air Arm and now RNAS collection and my third completion this year!! Sopwith Camel F1 B6390. No 13(N) Squadron RNAS. France. December 1917 Flown by Raymond Collishaw December 1917 Victories number 19 & 20 (of 60). 09.12.17 1520) Albatros D.V (OOC) Ostend Sopwith Camel B6390 10.12.17 Two Seater (OOC) Sopwith Camel B6390 Kit Revell 1/48 Sopwith Camel F1 (Old mould Eduard re-boxed). After market Look Instrument Panel Eduard 'Big Sin' Bentley Engine upgrade set (Bentley engine, wheels, seat, Vickers Mk.I gun, Rotherham air pumps, (not used; 20lb bomb carrier, 20lb bomb). Paint Colourcoats enamels. Tamiya, AK, Life Colour and Hataka Acrylics Decals Box Home Printed. Rigging EZ Line. Reasonably straight forward model to build. Beware though that the after market is designed for the new mould Eduard model. Some trimming is required... Pictures Now, what to plunder from the stash next… Thanks for stopping by..

Another Hunter to add to the 50+ on the shelf of my project. Old age, hands and eyes mean that I can no longer build like I want to but the project crawls on. So, Novo Hawker Hunter FGA9 kit with added bits from Revell and Airfix and after market decals to produce, very loosely, an F58A of the Swiss display team 'Patrouille Swiss'. It's just a labour of love now, not to create museum worthy exhibits - and when I'm gone the kids will probably bin the lot. Swiss F58A v1 by Ian Pursey, on Flickr Swiss F58A v2 by Ian Pursey, on Flickr

Thanks Tony, Giorgio, Alex, Johnny, Bill, James, Ian and Simon. You're all very kind Nothing done for the last couple of days as I was off to Thruxton. A neighbour and I decided to stop driving performance cars around town, to drive something normal day to day and then go for 'an experience' once a year. Amazing fun. This is our fifth year and it gets better and better. Three laps in an Alpine A110 to get used to the circuit: Then three laps in an Aston Vantage and F-Type SVR: Brutes, both of them! As you can see from my heart rate: The peak at about 3pm was a double expresso on the drive home. Washed out today but back to the bench tomorrow.

Right it was about time to stop thinking and start cutting plastic. I felt that a dry fit was in order. That's without any clean up too. Fantastic stuff Roger. Thanks for looking, Cheers, Alistair

This is the AMP model of the M2 F3 lifting body. The M2 F3 was built from the wreckage of the M2 F2 after it crashed quite spectacularly (see the opening titles of "The Six Million Dollar Man) They added a central fin to improve stability. AMP model is a neat little model, you can build it as the F2 or F3. It is a limited run kit, so no location pins, and some of the smaller parts are difficult to use due to heavy mould lines. You get a 3D printed ejector seat which needs careful removal from its scaffold. There is a photo etch fret with cockpit panels and undercarriage door hinges, but no seat belts, so I added mine from masking tape. After feeding the nose probe to the carpet monster, I made a replacement from a hypodermic needle and wire. Painted with Tamiya lacquers, their Sparkling Silver gives a fantastic polished aluminium effect. Some panels were picked out with different shades to replicate the natural metal finish. It is a small model: Thanks for looking Angelo

This was a lot of fun to build and even more to paint. The Syhart Decal and Mask set were fantastic and made the job a lot less scary than I thought it would be. Primed with Mr. Base White 1000. Painted with Colourcoats Dark Gull Grey. Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black, Rubber Black, Lacquer Gloss Black and a 50/50 Mix of Gloss Orange and Flat Yellow. Finished with Windsor & Newton Satin Varnish. AM Used, Eduard PE Cockpit Set, Eduard Masking Set. Syhart 72-114 Decal and Mask Set. WIP Here. Thanks for looking, Cheers, Alistair

AH-1Z Shark Mouth Academy 1:35 This helicopter model might surprise you. It’s one of those kits that you don’t expect much from, but it turns out to be a pleasant surprise. It’s quite affordable, but that doesn’t mean it’s a bad model. In Poland, we have a saying that if something is cheap, it can’t be good—but this model proves otherwise. It’s both inexpensive and well-made. The fit is excellent, so you won’t have any issues during assembly, and it’s also quite accurate in terms of details. In short, I highly recommend it!

I'm catching up with posting some builds from last year. I'm not too sure what got put on and what was missed when I gave up using village photos as a host ... anyway! This is the new-ish Mig 19 from KP. The main thing that I remember of it was the delicacy of the decals for the cockpit panels, a couple were casualties along the way. Other than that things were ok. Straight OOB build and no weathering, I'm afraid that continues to be beyond my skills!

Hello all. I have quite a liking for building old models, and one of my Model Club members must have taken that into account when he gave me this kit to build, with the caveat that I built it with the floats - he said that with a glint in his eye. I had already decided that floats was the way to go, as I prefer to do the complex rather than the simple (well, sometimes anyway). The KP kit is 'of it's time', having been released in the early 1970's, but in the past I had found that they build fairly well. Some cleaning up of parts was needed, and a master could add quite a lot of extra detail. One of my other Club members was also given a vintage KP kit, and it is unbelievable what he is producing with his Polikarpov Po.2, but I am nowhere near his league. Apart from rigging lines, I built this out of the box. The floats needed some assistance to settle them down, especially as they were supposed to be butt-joined to the fuselage. I drilled and pinned a few of the float struts, but some rely purely on CA. The rigging line was Infinimodels 0.091, (70 denier). All paintwork was acrylic brush-painted. This is what I produced: Those panels were just painted a blackish colour then the raised detail lightly sanded to reveal the dials. Apart from the slightly toe-in float, it all squared up fairly well I do want to pop this into a diorama. My idea is to get some deep pour water and sit it in that next to a wooden jetty. I just have to justify the additional cost as I have found the something like Woodland Scenics water is expensive, along with suitable colouring to get the water to look a bit peaty. If I do this idea, I will update this thread. I was surprised that the old transfers behaved nicely, it is just a shame that the printing was not up to standard, they were also a little blotchy but from a distance they will pass. I wasn't going to show this one, but I mentioned it in a thread that @AdrianMF is doing and he suggested I post it (he is building an even older KP kit and doing a proper job on it too). That's it for now, thanks for looking Ray

While we're on, I have also done a little more work - this time adding the assorted bumps on both sides of the hull just above the waterline, which were there to protect assorted drains and other protrusions from being bashed to bits by LCVPs on their falls as they were lowered. You can see some of them in this photo in real life: A few days ago I showed you the pencil drawings on the resin to work out where they were and in what configuration (they're nothing like symmetrical - that would be far too simple!). Here they are added in styrene (this is the starboard side) - and if you look closely at the top right of the picture you can see some of the many drain holes that I have drilled out: ...and here the whole ship seen from port: Please note that the originals were nothing like the same size either top to bottom or left to right; these are as accurate as I can make them. The drain holes are not me being anal about accuracy (OK, not *only* me being etc...); in due course once I start weathering this beast you will see that most of them had very visible stains (salt, rust etc) emanating from them - and remember this will be Fearless as she looked as we sailed back into Pompey after 100 days at war, much of it in appalling weather; she looked decidedly battered. More soon Crisp

I gave our airman a little friend looking for his dinner...

Something different from my usual aircraft. These are the Airfix 1/43 starter kits. To me they are fantastic for both price and quality. The Aston is painted with Tamiya metallic blue with a coat of Johnsons Klear to seal it. The E-Type is painted with Humbrol British Racing green enamel. Any way thanks for looking. Comments are always welcome. Dick.

My club has an annual Crest of a Wave competition and in previous years I built a 1/700 HMS Southampton and a 1/72 SRN5 Hovercraft. This year I went with the 1/72 Airfix RNLI Shannon-class Lifeboat. It's a Starter Set with glue and paint and a brush. I used everything in the box apart from the glue and some paint. I really enjoyed this build and plan to get another one. But... I will take my time as I rushed this one and I now know what to look out for. Main areas of concern are: Prime with white paint to make the colours stand out more. Don't use the orange paint in the kit as it's too thick. VW Beetle Orange is apparently the closest spraycan shade. Tamiya XF-54 works well for the grey deck. Fitting the cabin to the deck as it should be flush. The slots are precise but clog up when you paint them. Need to be kept clear or cleaned out. Cut out and fit each window section separately. Again, as supplied they fit tight and extra paint stops them getting into the frames. Check the colour scheme with the real thing - there are several variations in the actual machines with white or black hulls and tools on deck. Plenty of photos out there including a great virtual walkaround.

A first satin coat this morning. It needs a second coat but once that's dry I'll get her unmasked and take some pretty pictures (No breadbins involved). Thanks for looking, Cheers, Alistair

Here is the result of @Dave Swindell's excellent advice about making my own canopy framing decal strips. I am very pleased with that. Thanks Dave! There are still some wrinkles to sort out and the internal framing to add to those two large panels at the rear, but I am stopping there for tonight as I have reached the stage where every new strip I try to add disturbs at least two of the ones already in place. It does not show up too well in this light, but externally the port side and centre frames are Dark Green and those to starboard are Ocean Grey. I really like the interior green as seen from the inside too. Happy me. I shall give it a good dose of Decalfix and hope it does not dissolve completely by the morning. If all is well the remaining internal frame strips should be done sometime next week. Speaking of happy here is my family's idea of an amusing birthday present.. I've got to cut down on the sandwiches and crisps!! Onwards and upwards

One of two Aston Martin DB4GTs at yesterday’s Goodwood testing, DB4 GT/0122/R was supplied as a road car on 19 August 1960 to JB Swift of Trentham, Stoke on Trent; he retained it for three years before selling to H Chambers. It then passed to RJ Duncan in Northern Ireland in 1964 and started a racing career which included a win at Kirkistown the same year. Its subsequent history appears to have been restricted to historics from the early 1970s. Yesterday it was being driven by Harrison Newey and Dario Franchitti. The second DB4GT at Goodwood (DB4 GT/0124/R ) had a far more illustrious racing history, being delivered in 1960 to Tommy Sopwith’s Equipe Endeavour. It was raced seven times in 1960, winning five times and including a first-time-out victory at Goodwood with Stirling Moss in April. Its full results were: 18 April 1960; Fordwater Trophy Goodwood - Stirling Moss; 1st 30 April 1960; Aintree 200 - Jack Sears; 1st 7 May 1960; National Open Oulton Park- Jack Sears; 1st 14 May 1960; Silverstone International - Jack Sears; 10th 22 May 1960; SMRC Snetterton - Jack Sears; 1st 1 August 1960; Brands Hatch International - Jack Sears; 1st 27 August 1960; Redex Trophy Brands Hatch - Jack Sears; 2nd Again, supported by a team from RS Williams, the car was driven at Goodwood yesterday by Dario and Marino Franchitti. I shall probably post a few more later.

I've just finished building this in the 'Give Peace a Chance' group build, so I thought I'd chuck an RFI up. The backstory for this is a young guy who got out of East Berlin in 1989 with his girlfriend, a suitcase and his Trabant. They spent the winter in Southern Europe and, in the spring of 1990, made their way up to Belgium, where they settled. Over the years, life happened, but he never got rid of the Trabant. Eventually, he started making budget modifications and here we are! Here are a couple of interior shots and one of the boot assembly Thanks for looking! Martin

This one is pretty much OOB.Painted in gunze acrylics and the decals came from a lindenhill sheet.

Hi All, I don't know why I didn't start this earlier - I'm thoroughly enjoying myself! I've started to progressively add detail to the cabin: Once I've got the major components blocked out I can start adding the details to each - instruments, throttle levers etc. Next job is the navigator's table, Thanks for looking, Roger

I started the Eduard kit. The detail and precision of the fuselage inserts is amazing: Complete with flare pistol and cartridges! I have to rate the instrument panel, fitting and decal at eleven out of ten: Decal seat belts are passable, but this is the weekend boxing without pre-painted photo-etch... So, side by side with a cockpit full of stretched sprue and plastic scraps: Is it better than what I do? Hell, yes! Can I see the difference on a casual look? Er, probably, maybe. Was it more fun to do? Well, yes it was fun. And the kit is superb. But it's like driving an automatic - some of us like changing gears!

"Helldiver" can refer to multiple things; one of which is a WW2 bomber, and another being a multiplayer video game where you dispense copious amounts of FREEDOMTM throughout the galaxy by cheerfully massacring anything that has the undemocratic bad taste to be non-human. Think Verhoeven's Starship Troopers with the satire knob cranked up to 11 and then ripped off. The overlap between fans of each kind of Helldiver is probably tiny, but I saw this kit at my LHS and my brain refused to let this dumb idea go. Assembly went smoothly for 90% of the build, with the exception of some incredibly flimsy landing gear attachments, and bombs that refused to fit inside the bomb bay without cutting off the attachment framework for the bay doors. All that remained to do was a coat of metallic black, and a properly virulent shade of yellow trim (8:1 Tamiya XF-3 Yellow + XF-4 Yellow-green). Add an "are we the baddies?" amount of skull logos, and we have a (hopefully) amusing bit of nonsense ready to die horribly go into glorious battle with the enemies of Super Earth!

Hello All. Since I've been commenting on all of your wonderful builds, I thought I should open myself up to some critique. Here is a build from about a year ago. I was still very new to airbrushing and metallic paints, so please try to forgive the bad quality of the finish (I promise it gets better (; ).

Finished the lot This is the 'new' Blenheim (finished with my custom ATOM mixes for Dark Earth and Dark Green) next to the one I built a year ago which was painted with AK Interactive 3rd Gen acrylics: A bunch of photos of the mk IV in the RFI thead here: Thanks everyone who followed along and commented and/or responded in other ways!

Steady progress on the TS-020 over the last few days. Engine ready to be installed in the chassis. The exhausts were a little tricky to build and I thought the link of air intake pipes, radiator and exhaust would not work, but they mostly have. They are not 100% aligned but good enough. The front splitter is attached to the cabin tub, and the front suspension and brake discs added. The masked line and contrast between the semi-gloss and bright red on the splitter is the part of the model I am most pleased with! Interior is relatively simple. Front splitter + cabin tub mounted to the chassis plate, and engine added at the back. Looks good all together. Next steps are working on the body. A couple of coats of clear have made the front white section a little more than semi-gloss so I will live with it. I have removed all the mask from the underside and the black has come through nicely, with only a couple of small touch ups to be done. Updates on this soon I hope.

486 Bomb Group 384 Squadron out of Sudbury. This aircraft survived the war to be broken up in Kingman AZ. After waiting a few months finally got some green grass and an overcast day. Hope you like. Products used Paint: Ak Real color, Model master and Alclad Aftermarket: Eduard wooden floors and ammo boxes set Eduard Zoom cockpit Eduard engine set Eduard Radio Compartment Eduard masks Master gun Barrels Thanks for looking Rod

After some primer Interior Grey Green and Night Bomber Black were flung in the general direction of plastic and some of it even landed in the right place. Thanks for looking, Cheers, Alistair

Cockpit windows finally done. Last thing was to brush paint around the frames to cover the filler and see if the fuselage join to the transparency is smooth. I’ll leave the paint to dry then sand it down as it’ll be sprayed gloss white at some point. I’ll probably leave the actual window frames hand painted though as there’s no way the thin plastic windows can be masked - any tape would just pull them out.

Apologies, I've kind of neglected updating this thread even though I've been chipping away in the background. So, let's kick off a catch up. Firstly, there are four pins under the roof (not seen this before, is it a Hasegawa thing?) that require removing. It was quite awkward to get in there, but I managed to get the most off with sprue cutters and then gently ground the stubs down with a rotary tool, before finishing off with wet and dry paper. There was very little sign of mould seams, only around the underside at the rear. On with the painting, I followed @Spiny's advice and hosed on black primer (Mr Surfacer), followed by silver (Tamiya LP-48). The silver took several attempts to get right, you'll see it's a little grainy on the bonnet. The LP-48 worked a lot better when heavily thinned with Mr Color Rapid Thinners, then it flowed on like mercury.

Trabant 601 Turbo S Build thread Revell Trabant 601 "Builders' Choice" 1/24 Scale Cheers! Martin

Me:- Where do you want this big roll of bubble wrap? Boss:- Oh, just pop it in the corner Me, 3 hours later.....

Hi All Well well well, where does time time go? Looking for a piece that came orf of my current build (perhaps see a subsequent post, probably much, much later...), I came upon this cupboard queen. It's encouraging to realize that there are many more learned minds out there on here, if you see what I mean. This I decided to do, and, spurred on by a couple of other builds, I did this Followed by And eventually, this I feel the red is a slightly too dark orange (Vallejo 71.084 Fire Red), and the blue is slightly too bright (Vallejo 71.088 French Blue), but compared to the overall finished quality of the white, I'm not that concerned. There are several (many) areas that need touching up (please don't look at the pics too closely 😳), but at least it's out of the Cupboard Of Doom. For now. Watch this space (but again, not too closely...) Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve

Source: https://bbs.ruliweb.com/family/232/board/300016/read/2376074 V.P.

I am certainly convinced, all the photos of Croman Helicopters in this yellow scheme have definitely glowing yellows but over the lovely buff undercoat it seems to sap brightness out of the hue. This photo shows exactly the 'look' I am aiming for Now, to other things, masking begins Yes, you are right, I am not happy with this... Yes that is better. N617CK has a sunshield in its cockpit roof which I am going to replicate with the removal of some of the upper window masking before painting, visible in the frontal view here. Another shot which shows the richness of the yellow too.

Hi All, Well, another day at the salt mine! I've been displaying some elite-level procrastination around the empennage, as its fit and engineering is proving rather challenging. In order to push things along I therefore elected to leave it well be, and focus on something else instead! I decided that the cockpit might be a bit of fun, so I started off with this schematic: I've blocked out the rear bulkhead and the floor (the cockpit glazing 'cutout' allows for the position of the DF loop blister): At the moment I'm working on the nosewheel undercarriage bay (you can see that I haven't finished, as it is currently clashing with the fuselage in the above pic - soon to be sorted): Now it looks to me as if the diameter of the nosewheel will require intrusion into the cabin (adjacent to the navigator position), so I shall address that before I get too much further. Enjoying this again! Thanks for looking, Roger

Engine and everything around:

Thanks to you all for looking in, liking and commenting! Portholes are drilled And details added to the bridge superstructure piece Some of the inner recesses were sprayed with a Grey-black before arriving at this.. Railings were added to the quarterdeck And whilst being built I used the kit base which is entirely acceptable... The hangar structure was assembled and the folding door was cut so as to appear half open I would characterize general fit as being good rather than excellent - some of the locating lugs are a tad too big and need reducing and some filler seems necessary though this might just reflect my clunky build I received deliveries from Starling and Swordfish yesterday all relevant to the Type 42 builds... The Starling Mk 8 turret is really nicely done... And some Flight deck crew The Swordfish boats are an improvement on the kit offerings but were a mild disapointment in terms of fine detail - certainly nowhere near Micromaster/BC level. However they are at least are producing parts for modern RN subjects so beggars most definitely cannot be choosers Once the deck is fitted to the hull access to the quarter deck will be denied so there's no option but to finish this first. I primed with Mr Surfacer 1500 - at the suggestion of @Dads203 Dan. And an excellent suggestion too - I thinned near 50 : 50 with Mr Hobby levelling thinners and airbrush cleaned with Cellulose thinners. It laid very nicely, at least as nicely as Mig A Stand with possibly better coverage and less smell. Prop shaft fit was not perfect and needed some fettling So this is where I'm at currently... This site has proved Very useful for it's info and analysis: https://www.hmscoventry.co.uk/d118/modelling-hms-coventry/ After a lot of online rooting and research - I've reached some conclusions: - Glasgow had her hull pennants painted over as per general Falklands Type 42 practice. It's uncertain whether her Stern numer was like-wise treated - The Black ID band reached down to the boot topping contradictory to the Foreart instructions and decals. We must Remember that Argentina had 2 Type 42s in her fleet!!! - Glasgow had her Flight deck marking s painted out - likely painted over in Dark Sea Grey. Interestingly shots of Sheffield after her exocet hit show that she retained hers. - It is highly likely that she carried a bridge roof Union Jack - I have found no information or photos that give clue to what colour her anti-fouling was. Coventry had Black-Grey and FWIW Nottingham as a Batch 2 had red. In the absence of any further info, I'll be using Red - Her ship's boats were painted Light Weatherworks Grey - Her Lynx appears to have been in Oxford Blue - it seems that only after the war were the lynxes repainted Dark Sea Grey. @Ex-FAAWAFU Crisp - does this seem correct by your recollection? Thanks for any info and direction on this. Certainly the You tube video dealing with Glasgow during the conflict shows her Lynx armed with Sea Skua in Oxford Blue with "dulled down" Blue/Red roundels. My understanding is that Sea Skua had not been officialy cleared for carriage prior to the conflict so it seems compelling that these photos do show the Glasgow "cab" in Blue during the conflict. Thanks for looking - more soon Rob

I don't remember exactly when i started this model, but i was definitely working on it in the 2019-2020 time frame. I consider it however, a Shelf of Doom project. Let's get the "Navy Bird Briefing" out of the way, shall we? Kit: Hasegawa A-1H, kit number 51406/ BP6 Scale: 1/72 (because reasons.) Aftermarket Products Used: Reskit A-1 Skyraider wheels, part no. RSK-72-0166 Quickboost A-1 weapons pylons, part no. QUB 72291, A-1 Horizontal Tailplanes and elevators, part no. QUB 72238 Master brass pitot tube and 20MM cannon barrels, part no. MAS-AM-72-111 New Ware models Skyraider canopy mask set, part no. NWR-AM0502 Eduard USAF and USN WWII Seatbelts, part no. 73004 Eagle Strike Decals sheet 72-030 Paints used: AK, Tamiya, Mr Color If you want the nitty gritty on the construction (to the extent that i documented it)- it can be found here: I didn't start off this project with a tremendous amount of enthusiasm; i probably wouldn't have built an AD (now) were it not for the colourful markings i found in Angelo Romano's NAVA1: Naval Air Weapons Meet 1956-1959. However, i did need a Skyraider to fill a missing gap in my Douglas attack aircraft collection and by extension attack aircraft in general. The kit was originally issued in 1996, same year as the A-3 Skywarrior. Fundamentally it's a nice model and definitely head and shoulders above the Airfix, Fujimi and Tsukuda Hobby offerings. Fit is generally good, recessed detail is nice and the basics are there for a good cockpit and landing gear. The main drawbacks of the kit are your typical spartan Hasegawa wheel well detail, decals for the instrument panel and side consoles, and a very basic seat. These shortcoming are not too difficult to overcome. I evaluated several aftermarket products, and my opinions are rather mixed. I got the KMC Skyraider detail set and i didn't use it. The Quickboost wing pylons, while detailed, were not that big of an improvement over the Hasegawa pylons. Cutting the pylons off the casting block resulted in many snapped off sway braces; the locator pins tended to shear off; the gaps where the pylon joined the wing undersurfaces were pretty bad. I got around the gaps by using white acrylic glue to fill them, and then disguised the dried clear glue with a wash of Future/water, and Tamiya flat black. I used the Quickboost elevator set because i liked the option to position the elevators in the parked, "Up" position. They fit fine, though the elevators are so thin that they tend to warp a little. It is nice to be able to paint the elevators separately from the stabs. One thing i did really like were the Reskit wheels. The multipart construction made painting and weathering easy. Also, the New Ware canopy masking set fit very well and helped a lot with painting. I didn't use the Master 20MM cannon barrels (yet), but i did use the Static Mast, which also served as a convenient attachment for the antenna wire which was made using Uschi "Rig this Thing" elastic thread. I'll say here that you want to think this step through before paint goes on the model, and not after the landing gear bombs, propeller and such sundries go on. Aside from the Eduard belts that i added, i also installed an LSO line up light in the left wing leading edge, plus i installed the forward inlet flap position indicator... Late in the game, i changed my mind, went ahead and added the centerline station, mainly to keep the option open to add a drop tank or a practice "Special Weapon" down the road if i find something i like. With this model finally done, i can turn to my Wyvern, a project that goes way back, plus other projects that go back even further in time (727, F-104A, etc.). However, the Big Corsair is not far off from being done so, naturally it kind of goes to the head of the line. Thanks for all the kind words of encouragement. Until next time- Keep your knots up, and your powder dry. Fly Navy!!

Thanks, chaps! @Keeff and @Chuck1945 - I haven't settled on one method yet, whether painting the markings followed by the main colour scheme, or the main colour scheme followed by the markings. Both methods have their pros and cons. In some ways, I ought to consider a tutorial thread, but then there are plenty of others here who can do the whole technique so much better than me! Silvering remedial work hasn't been an all-fired success. I fear some careful paint retouching will be needed, so that's tomorrow's job. Please, don't tell me I should've gloss coated the thing before applying transfers. I find that hit and miss, too. I will finish this bloomin' model this weekend! Onwards!

This is the Revell 7280 kit which I'm sure many of you are familiar with.

Hi all. After several hesitations over which paints to use, I finally decided on the following: - For the Dark Green, Gunze H-330. - For the Ocean Grey, a mixture of XF-66 60% + XF-18 20% + XF-71 20%. - For the MSG, Tamiya XF-83. There's a photograph of the aircraft I intend to depict, in which you can see significant wear where the wing meets the fuselage near the cockpit access. I wanted to depict a lesser degree of chipping in the paint, but it's clear I'm not skilled enough for that. Since I didn't really like the result I got with the MK VIII, this time I decided to use the method of painting aluminum, masking with masking fluid applied with a stick, and removing it once the camouflage colors were applied. Well, I don't like the look very much either, at least so far, because maybe when I do some dirt and highlight details with oil paint, the overall look will change. The next step is to paint the roundels and the leading edges of the wings with the corresponding colors. For the roundels, I'll use the masks offered by Pmask, as I did with the MK VIII. Andrés.

Well that is the interior finished now. I touched up some the parts inside, then sprayed it Tamiya clear gloss. Applied Tamiya panel liner and and cleaned up the excess. Finished the turret gun with a little highlighting of the raised parts, Will have to wait for the CA glue to dry before installing into the body and closing up (never to see the light of day again 😂) But it was a fun learning experience 😁 The masks for the windows did the job and no issues there. I also painted the bomb bay zinc chromatic yellow to represent the 1942 new build straight from the factory. Also did the same for the wheel bay. The bright on the edges of the windows, was where I tried masking fluid for the first time, it worked ok. I used Ammo Ultra Glue to fix the seats to the floor and to attach the control panel. Next step, glue the two halves together... 😂

Certainly taking its time, my longest project to date… if not counting ones in deep hibernation for a good decade. It’s taking time as it’s overwhelming for me how much one can detail so I returned today with a small milestone, undetailed wheels went on for the first time and I started looking into how I will finish the interior.

IBG will release an Expert Set for the D-9, that is like Eduard's BigSin Sets with several Upgrades together in one box.