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Born from Erprobungskommando 25, Jagdgruppe 10 was a unit tasked with studying the various tactics for using the WGr.21 rockets; some of its aircraft featured a beautiful yellow-red snake running along the entire fuselage. The model (Hasegawa 1/72, to which I only made a few small changes) represents the FW190 A-7/R6 of Uffz. Gerlach, of the 3. Staffel, operating from Redlin between 1944 and early 1945. The paint scheme, as always done only with a brush, is in the classic RLM 74/75/76 scheme. The colours used are Gloy and the decals Eagle Cals EC35. Model completed in 2002. The undersurfaces Hope you like. Thanks for viewing Giampiero Piva

This is my first submission, so please be gentle. It's the Italeri DC-3 kit with Leading Edge decals and and a Starfighter nose donated by my nephew. Pinocchio was used by the CAF for training pilots to use the Starfighter radar.

Hi all, Here’s my latest finished model: 1/48 Mirage IIICJ from Eduard. This kit was part of the #MirageIIIGBcommunity Group Build Greetings from Ecuador

Hello all! This is my new model. Here is another one of my models. It took five days to assemble. As additional sets I used wheels set from SBS, pilot tube from Mater and 3D decal from Kelik. Painting Mr Co;or. Weathering oil paint and washes.

Hi, With another Cobra Warrior looming I decided to get on with this previous ACMI participant, Austrian Air Force J-35OE Draken. Finished as No.12, of 1 Staffel, Zeltweg, and attempted to make look like how it appeared in 1997 at RAF Waddington for the exercises. Theres was no missiles or correct stores for this kit so i found a spare RB24 and created something looking vaguely like an ECM pod!!! Airbrushed using Mr Color Acrylics, with flory and Mig Ammo washes. Pitot tube was from Master (painted rather than decal) Decals are combination of the boxed Hase ones and the numbers are from Brent Air Decals, after a lot of searching!!! Those are on quite thick film, (so i cut the 2nd side ones much closer to the numbers etc) but i wanted a bog standard frame rather than one of the specials (this was supposed to be the red one). I also feel the wing numbers aren't quite as day-glo as i remember....... Kit went together quite nicely, any defects were my doing rather than its, like me losing one of the wing lights to the carpet monster 🤪 A few pics: Hasegawa 1.48 J-35OE Draken 12-4 by Jonathan Francis, on Flickr Hasegawa 1.48 J-35OE Draken 12-10 by Jonathan Francis, on Flickr Hasegawa 1.48 J-35OE Draken 14 by Jonathan Francis, on Flickr Hasegawa 1.48 J-35OE Draken 12-15 by Jonathan Francis, on Flickr Hasegawa 1.48 J-35OE Draken 12-16 by Jonathan Francis, on Flickr Hasegawa 1.48 J-35OE Draken 12-6 by Jonathan Francis, on Flickr Hasegawa 1.48 J-35OE Draken 12-2 by Jonathan Francis, on Flickr Thanks for looking Jon

Hi everyone, Here’s my 1/48 Kinetic Gold F-16A FAV/AMB "Caza 16 Dragones." One of the many jet fighters in Latin America, with a striking paint scheme. It was a fun build with some challenges along the way. Greetings from Ecuador!

I was the happy recipient a while back, of an Airfix Scammell as a present from my girlfriend’s eldest son. As is often the case with kits, I intended this to be a simple OOB build, but I ended up making a few tweaks, including sanding off the ship rivets and replacing framing detail with plastic card strips. I also added a winch and cabling and some glazing which the kit is missing. I partnered the transporter with a much newer Airfix Cromwell, and this gave me a good opportunity to contrast the difference in kits some 50 odd years apart. The fit, engineering and detail of the newer Cromwell is better than the old (1961) Scammell, but both required some of the parts to be carved from the sprue attachment blobs. I was tempted to improve the Scammell using @TeeELL's superb 3D printed update set, but I fancied the challenge of the old Airfix parts to be honest – and they were a challenge. I failed to get the wheels squared up and all touching the ground; the fit is difficult to say the least, so I made use of my sandy groundwork to build up in areas to meet the wheels instead. One big plus point was the decals, which after recent Tamiya experiences were a joy; settling down nicely even on the tank’s roof star using (quite a lot of) microsol. For the groundwork, I made the basic terrain using thick cork tiles, carved to shape, all covered in a mixture of tile grout, “cream” grout pigment, household filler and pva with a dry mix of white tile grout and pigment sprinkled on top. When half dry, I rolled a spare wheel over it to get the track and wheel marks and these were highlighted with a little light brown acrylic wash. The barbed wire is a pair of thin twisted silver wires and bunches of 6mm static grass were glued on to form the dune vegetation. The pigment mix was also dusted and washed over the vehicles to weather them and help them blend into the groundwork. I used a touch of diluted mod-podge on top of a wash of grey acrylic to get the wet beach section in the corner.

Hi, I present my 1/48 Airfix Mosquito in SEAC colours. I put this one together as a quick build to fill in the waiting times while working on another, more complex build. It's an old, simple kit with no engine detail and was intended to join the fleet hanging from the ceiling in my study. Hence I built it wheels up to show in flight. I have a 1/24 Mozzie with all the detail on display so there was no need to focus on adding detail to this one. It's in SEAC colours with decals from EagleCals. My missus found the kit for sale on ebay for £5, and it was in our town so it seemed a fair deal. According to Scalemates, the tooling dates back to 1977. This one however was the 1994 reboxing. The box was beaten up - it had been in an attic for years - but all the parts were present and undamaged. The decals looked like they haven't aged well but I wasn't intending to use them anyway. It was an enjoyable build, despite a few things not going to plan. As it was a cheap kit intended to hang from the ceiling and basically just be Mosquito shaped, I used it to experiment and try new things. Some worked quite well, others did not, but the result is fine from 2 feet away in a room that doesn't have an overabundance of natural light 😄 On to the pics of the finished model: I left the spinners unwashed so that they stood out from the rest of the bodywork. Probably not accurate but.. there's a lot of flat aluminium going on in this livery. A few mistakes were made. Firstly, I really didn't match the blue well to the decals. The dark blue stripes are much too dark. It's less noticeable in lower light but it's much further away than I expected. Secondly, the wash is much, much heavier than I intended. I wanted to add some patina to break up the monotony of the big block of grey paintwork, particularly as, being a Mosquito, there are very few panel lines on the bodywork to add some colour and break up the shape a bit. My mistake was probably applying it under a desk light that was much too strong for the job. The particles in the wash were shiny under the light and blended in to the shiny paintwork beneath, and so under the light I just wasn't seeing how much was staying on the model. So it ended up looking much more unloved than I had intended, and has taken on something of a comic look for an overly ratty steed of some rebellious pilot and ground crew. There is no WIP thread for this build but I'll touch on a couple of the experiments I had tried here. For the finish, a friend had pointed out that the Mosquitos were covered in red dope before receiving the silver paint coat, and that where the paint tends to wear through, it shows as red underneath. To replicate this, I gave the model a dark, muddy red undercoat before applying the silver, so that I could sand it back down to the red to show wear. After the sanding and the wash, the red was pretty much swamped. Next time I'll use a redder red. I also sanded the decals back a little to simulate the wear. This was a bit trickier. I used a coarse sander for this, very gently. I practiced on a test piece with a spare decal from the same sheet first, and I'm glad I did. On first attempt I just ripped chunks of the decal straight off, shredded and ruined it. The key was to leave the decals for at least 3 or 4 days to properly dry out. The navigation lights on the wingtips are solid, clear plastic. I drilled little holes in them and filled the holes with coloured translucent paint to simulate light bulbs. This was the first time I had done this but the end result, to me, looks much better than just painting the whole piece. The interior had a fair bit of detail for the age. It won't be seen much when hanging from the ceiling but I painted it anyway. Paints are all Vallejo model air and metal color. Finish is Winsor & Newton matte. Anyway, that's the build. Thanks for looking!

Hello ! Here is my penultimate old kits reconstruction effort: The Revell P-40K. Obviously the original kit is full of defects and inaccuracies, and it took me quite a bit of time and work to correct them and make this kit acceptable: the fuselage was way too short then lengthen by 4mm, the entire cockpit rebuilt, as well as the landing gears, wheel wells, then the kit was completely re-engraved and riveted. The most challenging part was to re-shape the area between the two landing gears, which has been over-simplified by Revell. Last, I have replaced the false propeller and the wheels with some aftermarket products. Wanted to avoid the popular shark mouth marking seen on so many P-40s, I selected a SAAF 2nd Sqn P-40 in 1942 with a nice nose art representing an antelope jumping over a map of Africa. This nose art is well known but wrongly interpreted by Revell (and other decal manufacturers), showing the map in red rather than green. I used the DK decals "SAAF Squadrons over the West Desert", which are very good in quality and accuracy. The camouflage scheme is a typical Dark earth-mid stone and azure blue pattern, well weathered. As a conclusion, even if the finished kit is far from being OK, I had some fun with this challenge and I am quite happy with the result. As for similar re-constructions I did until now, the Revell kit can be forgotten, Special Hobby has released a nice model of this version of the Kittyhawk. Enough talks, here are the photos: The real P-40: The puzzle: The result: ...and a little dio: That's it, hope you will enjoy it, as usual critics most welcome!

Do what Bill??!! Now I have to find a penny? What do you think of this? Just a test. I have 0.4mm tape too but this looks right? I need to spot paint the seepage first, obvs, but should be OK burnished down under varnish? Right, tape off: Still have the white to do remember. Don't strain your eyes looking for seepage: Johnny you were right. Perhaps I'll do better on the other side: …but with these done: I'm seeing an end in sight (snurf).

This is my build of a Stuart Mk.V, of 5RTR, 22nd Armoured Brigade, in June 1944, and is based on the AFV Club kit. I built it last year a s part of the Stuart M3/M5 GB. Anyone interested in the build can find it here.https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235144580-stuart-v-m3a3-afv-club/ Thanks for looking, and I hope that you like it. John.

Good evening, ladies and gentlemen! I present to you my next model.

Hi, In 1935 the Swedish aviator, Carl Gustav Van Rossen organized a delivery of two ex-Polish PLL LOT Fokkers F VII a Lorraine-Dietrich engines as ambulances for the Abyssinian army. More about it one can find in Net mostly in files by Crezan Aviation. One of the machines were named Abba Dagnew, the secon Abba Kagnew. The machines were lost in April 1936 during battle for Maychew. There is a report to red cross containing photos showing some dame done to upper part of wings and fuselage of one of Fokkers. On this photo the Abyssinian flag painted on top of fuselage is clearly seen. It is not mentioned by Crezan materials. Therefore I included it. Most likely it was also on a bottom side but I do not have any evidence for it, it is just a logical supposition, and therefor I did not added it. https://blogs.icrc.org/cross-files/the-cross-in-the-crosshairs-a-photographic-record-of-the-bombing-of-red-cross-field-hospitals-during-the-second-italo-ethiopian-war/ In the very valuable Crezan files the roundels are proposed to be on wins along with red crosses but I do not know any photo confirming it. The vacu Broplan kit is nice to work with, however some details like the propeller I used from my box of spares... Here is the result: So currently I have two Abyssinian side machines (and four from Italian side) from the Italo-Abyssinia war 1935-6. Here both Abyssinians: Fokker F VIIa along with Farman 192 which I did in 2021... Comments welcome Regards Jerzy-Wojtek #3/2025

Academy 1/48 A6M2b Zero Type 21 ------------------------------------------------------------ Hi everyone. This is my first output of the year. I have been building this since last year but the build was paused and moved onto the GWH Mig-29. After that, I decided to continue and finish it recently. As for the kit, I had some fit issues which were not very bad and acceptable. Some scraping, sanding and filling did the job. Surface details are good with nicely engraved panel lines and rivets. As for the colours, I decided to follow Eduard's Zero Type 21's color reference as I felt the Academy's Color references were not accurate. Academy did remarkably well with the decals. After applying using some decal softeners, they really look as if they were painted. Seat belts are from Fine Molds (Nano Aviation seatbelts for WW2 Japanese Aircraft). Just before finishing this kit, I heard the sad news that Academy Plastic Model Founder has passed away. My deep condolences to his family and may he rest in peace. #tzwzero

Hi everyone, Here’s my 1/35 Kitty Hawk AH-6J / MH-6J Little Bird helicopter. It was a challenging but enjoyable build. Greetings from Ecuador!

The Imperial Iranian Air Force, under the Shah of Iran, took delivery of the first C-130B in 1962 to become the Middle East’s first Hercules operator. More than 250 have been delivered to the region since then. The Islamic Republic of Iran still operates a large fleet of around 30 C-130E and H models, despite military embargoes, because Iran Aircraft Industries, working alongside the military, has been able to keep them in the air. That several have crashed has been attributed to sub-optimal servicing but in reality their safety rate seems about average for the type. 5-8507 at Tehran - Mehrabad Satellite view of several Hercules at Tehran - Mehrabad The Esci kit dates from 1990 and is pretty poor. It has shape issues around the nose, the engines are high on the wing and the cross section is incorrect throughout the fuselage. Only some of these problems are able to be corrected within a reasonable build time-frame. One unusual modification, purely for space saving reasons, was to separate the wing and fuselage, as in the Zvezda kit. The attachment is very strong, thanks to neodymium magnets, and the plane can be held by the wings. Some of the improvements included replacing the nose cone with a spare from a Zvezda kit, using a mask designed for an Italeri kit after sanding away the inaccurate cockpit window markings and substituting resin wheels for the kit wheels. Aerials needed to be fabricated – each Hercules operator seems to have a different fit. The colour scheme for 5-8507 is from decal set 7217 produced by the Iranian company KMA-Modeller. The set includes 4 options of which 3 are in the stone/sand scheme introduced in the late 1970s/early 1980s. The light stone colour is Xtracolour Radome Tan X109, the dark sand is a custom mix Humbrol 61 and 154 at about 9:1 and the blue is H47.The decal sheet is of good quality - all of the basic markings are there but numerous stencils etc had to be obtained from other sheets or home printed. The walkways and warning stripes are strips cut from Oracal coloured vinyl sheet. Despite its faults it looks like a Hercules. It would probably not be so impressive in a more ordinary colour scheme. While a relatively simple kit, it has taken more time than would be considered reasonable and if you have one of these kits, it is best traded in on a Zvezda Hercules!

There are aspects of this build that are more than fiddly. The undercarriage retraction struts, for example. Getting them to all line up was a proper fiddle, and I didn’t win in the end. Unfortunately, it isn’t possible to assemble the parts on the wheel bay before it goes in the wing, as the ceiling of the bay is moulded on the upper wing internals. I hope it’ll look okay in the gloom underneath. Anyway, radiator bits next. Then I might be able to get the canopy parts fixed temporarily in place for a blast of primer on everything. We shall see how it goes, because Real Life is tending to get in the way again this week.

Hi everyone, Here’s my 1/48 Answer PZL W-3RL Sokol helicopter. It was a challenging but enjoyable build. Greetings from Ecuador!

For those of you who haven't had the experience of going under a Range Rover and surviving, I can now tell you the chassis is a thing of beauty and Aoshima have reproduced every part extremely well. This post will be pretty picture-heavy as I've captured each stage as I've built it to try and share the experience. Every part went straight into place with little or no fettling, alignment was perfect and made the whole experience of assembling the chassis rather enjoyable. Where possible I've assembled a stage before painting it, the better to show each new stage and distinguish it from its predecessors - not possible all the time but hopefully enough. Starting with the bare painted chassis, the transfer box was added first... The front axle, propshaft, hubs and steering linkage were next... ...followed by the front exhaust section and mountings for the rear diff... The rear exhaust assembly went on next... ...followed by the rear propshaft, axle and suspension. The final touch was the rear hub/brake assemblies, completing the chassis for now. That short summation represented about three days work spread over a week and two weekends of extremely enjoyable assembly work. I'm really impressed with this kit, the first Aoshima I've tackled, as the quality, accuracy and design is first-class. One final shot, of the assembled wheels and scrubbed-in tyres, ready for final assembly later. In theory the centres should match the body colour but frankly these look much better left alone, I think. Thanks as always for staying with this one, more anon...

Latest off the bench is the old (and I mean old) Hasegawa Phantom. Boy is this model showing it's age. Parts fit well in most places but because it's the only game in town they can price it as they like. Personally I cannot wait till Airfix get there act together with this aircraft. Markings for 2 Squadron are usually black and white but they did go through a short period of red and black, as depicted here. Any way enough of me gassing. On to the pic's. Please feel free to comment etc. Thanks for looking Dick

Hi all Getting there now, Taiil wheel hydraulic pipes added and bay doors and actuator rods added Radiator flaps with with the shroud material, made from post it note paper and painted aluminium and lightened with a drybrush of Sky type S to lighten so it looks a bit lighter than the main Aluminium colour. Fitted Also replaced the support bar to the roll over bar with brss rod Just adding the main UC brake lines and will then add the wheels . Quite pleased with that. Chris

This is the 1/72 Italeri Sepecat Jaguar Gr.1. All the details are scratch built except for the Reskit wheels and exhaust. The RBF tag is made up of Tamiya masking tape. A very challenging kit to build but I have enjoyed the process. This is the most RBF tag I have applied to a model a total of 18 pieces. Thank you for dropping by and hope you enjoy the photos.

Ciao her my old Tamiya Panther Ausf A, the kit is very old but not bad at all; due that I wanna represent a Panther in Normandy I apply the zimmerit from Eduard very realistic but not easy to managed. The crew are from different brands Tamiya the commander, and the rest come from Hobby Boss and Dragon. The next step is create a diorama on the way to a Normandy village..let’s see..sooner or later…. ciaoo Paolo

Internal draught marks added (thanks to Jamie's excellent decals): Simulating this: Then the railings along the dock gallery decks - though I have decided to cut them short for now, on the grounds that there is a lot of handling of the hull etc to be done and they'd almost certainly becoming damaged: I am pleased with the fact that I managed to get the upper sections of the railings bent so that they lean out into the dock - as seen here in real life (photo showing F4 bringing survivors from HMS Antelope into Fearless' dock on 23 May 1982): Having done that on both sides, it was time for a big moment in this build; we have a flight deck! More soon Crisp

Welcome Mike. Pretty indeed To be honest I'm a kit builder rather than a modeller. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it! Pilot finished: My favourite for engines has not survived the move: I must pick up another pot at the next model show. AK pastes used instead: Horns removed as instructed: Things painted: NOW you see them (my poor old eyes): Chiselled off: and repainted. Drying now. More tomorrow if the Freighter doesn't take all my time.

A pin wash with Mig "US Modern Vehicles" wash All of these Scimitar 2's appear to have Barracuda netting over the rear turret box (Air-conditioning unit?/). The first opportunity I've had to use this... It's worth picking the individual loops out with a tweezers to give a "3D" effect Finally decals were applied. Don't normally have problems with decals but 2 of these split and needed careful re-aligning And once these were dry - the final Slat armour panels were applied. To get everything to line up - it's necessary to "open-up" some of the locating slots ang generally fettle. In this pic you can slao see the straps that attach The "side-blanketts" to the slat armour. Gecko provide etch for this but it would be madness IMHO to attempt using those. I opted to use 0.7mm sticky masking tape that made the whole operation comparatively painless. Fitting the armour bar pieces is NOT easy. The attachment points are very small and I used a combination of CA glue and Tamyia extra fine cement after some filing to get the very small lugs to "mate". You'll think yourself pleased if it all fits level You'll see from the photo that I left some struts unpainted so that they would attach with Styrene glue making a stronger bond than with CA glue. They'll obviously need brush painting. The end is nigh Just as well as the Type 42 HMS Coventry from ForeArt is due imminently Thanks for looking Rob

Recently completed this Academy 1/144th scale Poseidon. Really impressed with it and considering it was only £18 a bargain too. Nothing much to say really other than it went together like a dream and it features some very finely detailed parts particularly in the weapons bay. I've seen reports of a possible dodgy nose and canopy but at the end of the day it still looks like a Poseidon so couldn't be asked to do anything about it. (even if I knew where it was wrong) Decals are a mixture of the kit ones and Draw decal as I wanted to build an aircraft featuring the RAAF 100th Anniversary scheme. Highly recommended and thanks for looking. 20250307_201136 20250307_201208 20250307_201234 20250307_201303 20250307_201738 20250307_201556 20250307_201653

It’s a nice little kit and builds up into a nice model. As far as biplanes go it’s one of the easier ones to build. I’m sure you’ll make a good job of it. Bit hard to dust though! AW

A little update for everyone on how the project is coming along, not super detailed this time but just focused on getting some little assemblies dusted off and put in the front, as well as some detail up work with hose and wiring. Everything is based off the initial reference photo displayed, as well as this new one I found: The only noteworthy trick I think I pulled out here is on the interior hose, which is normally a solid white metal piece. I thought it would look better with some wrinkles and kinks in it, as it would surely have them in real life? So I coated it in bare metal foil and purposely did a sloppy job on lining everything up and ironing out wrinkles, I am really happy with the look it creates. I also added some clamping bands around a few hoses to make things more like the picture. Next order of business will be dusting out some of the junk that appears to have collected on the surfaces of my front compartment, which I'm only noticing AFTER taking and uploading the photos 🤣 Aside from that its the front brakes and suspension setup, and then off to the engine. Expect an update in a couple of days with the front end getting yet more love. Thanks to everyone for checking in and supporting the build.

Some more work done. My modelling is majestic, in the way that a glacier is majestic, well in terms of pace at least. Mask off some bodyshell for spraying porpoises; Black for inside the wheel arches and white with a hint of cream for the head lining; I'm not fitting sun visors, I'm leaving circular dents in case the occupant's heads are too big. Mask the wheels for some metal paint; Paint the metal bits with metal paint; and boy are these motobits wheels brilliant, they're so delicate and even handed, so I must remember to have the knock-offs on the correct side. Righty Tighty and, er, Lefty Tighty, no it's Lefty Loosey and, um, Righty Loosey. I'll probably forget, it's sad you can't get them any more; Door cards are nicely detailed for 1/43; The dash is well detailed too, shame there was no decal for the clock or temp gauges etc, but the speedo and tacho are nice and boy, close ups are not your friend when it comes to splurge; I won't show you the seat I tried to add a wash to and washed the base paint off, it's not the first time I've done that either TTFN Ross

Ah, thanks Bill, I get it now. You want me to paint a thin line around the blue? Er, might not… Watching paint dry. Gonna happen a lot now. What else can I do? Little things (see below) but I need something for more practice. So this: I did do a bit more on the 'freighter. Fitted the tailwheel: Big deal. At this point I should own up and say I've only masked and painted one side to see how I get on. May not be too late for Bill's cheat line. Hmmm. I've also looked at the ramps and how to fit the car. Can you see the screw in the bottom of the car? It's one of two that fixes the car into its display case. If I chop some slots in the side of the ramp: … it will hold the car and keep the ramps together: Best laid plans?

I need something to do while the paint is drying on the Superfreighter. I have a Jug to build for the museum but I feel I need a bit more practice so this: Kindly donated by @HP42 as part of his 'stash reduction' and the last one! Parts trees: Note I've gathered the paint to check that it hasn't dried out over the house move and ordered a couple I don't have. Selected a few bits to start on: And base coated the pilot a la @Stew Dapple:

Straight out of box. I am in a Battle of Samar mode. This Arma kit was phenomenal . No issues, great fit fantastic decails and super details simple photos from IPhone Rattle can Testors Navy Blue overcoat decals with GX-100 Ushi Line for Antenna and pigments for exhaust ash Thanks for Looking Comments Always welcome Cheers Bill

Hi all, out of the box builds with the odd bit of Evergreen strip/rod and brass rod. Tamiya and Vallejo paints used, Flory wash, AB oils, Flory pigments and Mr Metal Color. ttfn 😇

Well today I have been playing under there This device is basically why helicopters fly. I know the stories of repelled bythe ground, so complicated so ugly, so whatever prejudices you have. No not them it's this . The gubbins so well endowed with pipes is the main rotor gearbox and above them mounted on the shiny shaft is the rotor head. At the very top of shot are the rotor blades below which can be seen the pitch change mechanism and the droop stops one for each blade. These are said to be disaster preventers given assistance on occasions from ground crew with biffers or brooms.' No don't ask, I'm simply passing on folk lore from such bold aviators who like 'the lad who knows about those things' in The Navy Lark, know about such things. But I digress, yes again folks, it's what I do, below these hanging down from the pitch change arms are the swash plates which convert plain spinny-winny rotating into direction suggesting. The rotating upper swatch plates have change rods connected one to each rotor blade but below them with curved directing arms is the stationary swatchplate which is fixed to the main gearbox and sits stationary but with the ability to tilt in any direction to point the aeroplane where a pilot wants to send it. They're held together and apart by sweet rows of expensive ball bearing races for power and reliability which goes round. It doesn't move up or down much because the link at the right of picture holds it in place and is the main source of sensible control for the whole blooming issue. I have been making that. And experimenting with the clear styrene I bought the other day and a section of rectangular plastic tube I took a liking to in my LMS . Hither, the rectangular tubing And it's offcuts These pieces of the tube were glued to the five thou thick polystyrene with Tamiya Extra fast now I'll find out if it's any good under 'working' conditions. The Revell kit has it's rotating swatchplate supplied so the stationary plate needs to allow it to rotate safely It's me, I made a jig Looks promising Quietly confident Thoughts? Now up to date I haven't discussed the three rams which will decide if the pilot can , they come next Hers where we are. Oh yes last week's nightmare! Still scary.... I think these arms are too thick

Just to let people know Resolution Hobbies is now open again for your Colourcoats Paints. After a month in hospital and another month of physio support my re-hab is going well but slow after a stroke. I have a very good support network from friends and family to help out and they are doing a great job for me without pay. Stock levels are growing but still need more work so thanks for your patience's and Well Wishes. Resolutionhobbies.com Stay Safe beefy / Keith

The trick with brush painting and masking is to treat the mask as a guide. Run the paintbrush with not too much paint along the masked edge and avoid as much as possible going over the mask or painting towards the mask. I use both brush and airbrush and I have long since accepted that I am never going to get perfect masking, despite my best efforts. Sorry to highjack your thread Ced.

How time flies. It's been 4 weeks since my last post. I've not had time to do much with the old girl these last few weeks but I did manage to rouse myself from hibernation to paint and add the two observation posts either side of the bridge superstructure and the forward gun director (?) All three have 20mm AA positioned on top: I also took time to add Rodney's crest. You can see it above the forward gun director. This is what it's meant to look like: and my interpretation: Bl**dy difficult at 1/200 scale! 323 hours all in.

with horseshoe throwing competition (I'm mildly impressed to get the thread title included! Do I get a free Knighthood now?)

Source: https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1197501955708992&id=100063475961264 V.P.

Brownsing through my files I came to the conclusion that I had not post that old model of mine. In fact we do not see that plane very often and it is a pity as it was a very important one in the IJN. The "Dave" was the eyes of the fleet and was found on nearly every ship during the early time of the Pacific war. Hasegawa has done a pretty job on that floatplane despite a rare documentation. My "Dave"was on board the heavy cruiser Tone during Operation"R", occupation Rabaul and Buka on Bougainville in January 42. fullsizeoutput_22bf by jean Barby, sur Flickr fullsizeoutput_22be by jean Barby, sur Flickr fullsizeoutput_22bd by jean Barby, sur Flickr fullsizeoutput_22bc by jean Barby, sur Flickr fullsizeoutput_22bb by jean Barby, sur Flickr fullsizeoutput_22ba by jean Barby, sur Flickr

Hi My second kit of the year is finished I take a little time to finish it because I whished to use a resin exaust. I bought a file for the GWH kit and take time for having a exhaust in the good dimension I take pleasure to build this kit even if at some place it need some improvement or not use some option (like the air intake in start mode) I certainly buy another one for their special scheme And my little F-15J collection And another pics F-15J Platz

Hi everyone, This is a What If project inspired by a bit of reality. Back in the '90s, there was a rumor that the U.S. considered providing F-15s to Taiwan. Based on that rumor, I’ve created a mix of fiction and reality, imagining what an ROCAF F-15 could have looked like and how it might have been armed. I built this model in 2024, and it has been the most enjoyable project of my life due to the artistic freedom it allowed. Greetings to all from Ecuador!

Thanks Jeff. I've got a Hasegawa (well Hobby2000) one here so might do it in such a scheme, need to do some research. Thanks Chris Lol, I'm still learning the schemes on these! Thanks James Thanks Tom, quite happy with them, after researching RLM65, I realised my garage door and front door are pretty much this colour 🤣 Thanks Colin, it's a signature mistake 🤣 Thanks mike, it is a lovely looking aircraft That was my fear too, in fact after getting the paint on, I still had that concern, but weathering and decalling has blended it in more. Between last night and a couple of hours this afternoon, I got the decals finished, varnish on and weathering done! Happy with the look so far, but that worries me as it means there is an impending setback due! I've kept the weathering fairly restrained. It's all soft pastel other than the exhaust stains, they were airbrushed on and from photo's I've seen were often quite heavy. Most of the stencils were toned down by a light overspray of the base colour and additional weathering. Next steps will be the undercarriage and props. Cheers

Thanks Keith Sending kits to Johnny? Certainly for his excellent, artistic shading. I'm up for it (not really Jont, don't worry!) Thanks Giorgio I started with brush painting so airbrushing is my 'new thing' rather than a default. One day… Well this took LOTS of discipline: Klear on the burnished edges. Paint tomorrow. Fingers crossed!

I went to a fancy dress party dressed as a harp. The host told me I was too small to be dressed as a harp. I said, “Are you calling me a lyre?

Good morning tank fans! Luckily, I've been able to squeeze some time in on the production line ... So Update 4: After final sanding and smoothing seams on wheels, they are all done Work is now focusing on the tracks ..... There's alot of preparation: Guide horns removed from main sprues Track pins removed (and placed in a tub) Track links being cleaned up in batches of 10 which is how they are moulded and packaged Absolutely right! I spent some time making up two lengths: Cleaned and assembled: Guide horns added. I think a small jig will help here to keep them vertical while TET is applied to each: And a view of the treads: As always, your comments are welcome. Happy modelling! Keith ☺️