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Hi everybody! This is a long overdue RFI, since this build was completed in November 2023, so almost one year ago! The aircraft is and F-4E Phantom II of the 117th Combat Wing, based in Andradiva, here depicted in her 2014 "40 years Of Phantom II In Hellenic Air Force" livery. Let me start with a couple of pics, more to follow below. Here's one in natural light: Same subject, but using color auto-adjust from Irfan View A few words about the build: this was part of a double build, the WIP can be found here: The idea was to build two F-4Es with slatted wings, complementing the two kits with parts of each other, according to what is represented best in the two of them. The Hasegawa kit was used to represent a Turkish Air Force machine, whose RFI is here: For the Greek Spook, I used the Finemolds F-4EJ kit, converting it in a slatted F-4E by doing the following: Scratch built items: - Instruments panels, keeping parts of the kit ones and adding bits from stock styrene card, copper wires and spare decals - 3D printed exhaust cans and air brakes - air brakes actuators, from rigid copper wire and its plastic sleeve - canopy latches. from copper wire shaped up and hammered flat - resin outer wings, cloned from a set of Revell ones, with scratch built and re-positioned wing fences - drooped ailerons. cutting out and bending the kit parts - inner wings slat actuators, cloned from the Hasegawa kit - drop tanks from the Hasegawa kit, improved by removing the side welding strip and replacing it with thin brass pipe - rear fuselage air pressure gauge, by carving out its square hole and filling in with clear UV resin, and a generic gauge decal on the inside - DIAS ECM antennae, the intake shoulder ones using parts form the Hasegawa kit, the gun muzzle, tail fin and tail door ones from scratch, using various styrene bits and shaping them with standard sanding tools - IFF blade antennae (the ones sitting in front of the windshield) again using styrene sheet and sanding tools - home cut masks for the clear parts, designed by @Gene K and cut using my Silhouette Curio - RBF tags, printed on regular paper, soaked in Future and with copper wire glued to one end as connection wire/pin After-market items: - Quickboost seats - AIM120 and AIM9-L missiles from the dedicated Finemolds set - Pitot tube, fin sensor and AOA probe from the specific Finemolds brass set - Slime lights, canopy frames and gun compartment scavenger door from various Eduard PE sets - Decals and stencils from a Model Maker sheet for HAF special color Phantoms Paints and weathering: - Camouflage colors using Lifecolor paints - Metallics from AK Extreme Metal, Model Master Metallizers and Vallejo - Interiors painted using Lifecolor and Tamiya paints - Weathering done with tempera and oil paint washes, the chipping on the drop tanks was done with the good old salt chipping technique I'm pretty sure I forgot something, but I won't forget to thank everybody that followed my build, and especially -@Gene K for donating the kit, the 3D exhausts and air brakes, the masks cutting files and a ton of other Phantom related things that I'll be using in next builds - Silvano @phantom61, for donating Eduard PE sets and lending me a precious reference book for Greek Phantoms - Everybody else who gave advice, shared knowledge or just plainly cheered me up during the build You all wanna see some pics, now, right? There you go: Some interiors details Underneath views, from the WIP Last, a "Phamily" Photo As usual. all comments welcome! Ciao

Hello all. I have just finished a rather protracted build. Back in October 2021 I started the little Airfix BE2c full of vim and vigor for what I expected to be a quick, fun build (despite needing to do a bit of rigging). Anyway, I got a bit done and then I was nominated to build a model for a friend of one of our model club members. Well, as that was a Vickers Vildebeest I simply could not resist, so I put the BE2c away. To cut a long story short, 40 builds later I gave myself the proverbial virtual kick up the bot and carried on with this one. And I'm glad I did, as it was a little beaut to build. I only had one or two issues, all (probably) of my own making. Firstly, I used some fine rigging line - it was so fine I could not see it against my interpretation of PC10, so I eventually admitted to myself that my eyes are growing old, and I used some thicker thread. Then I had a spot of bovver fitting the propeller assembly into its position, but I will remember that on my next one. I brush painted the model with Revell Acrylic Nato Olive Drab and Beige. This is how the model turned out: I have to admit that I took a bit of a liberty adding the upwards firing Lewis gun and le Prieur rockets, but I just thought it looked rather neat like that. One thing I was amazed with was that I had fitted the gun early on, and I did not have to refit it at all, more by luck than judgement though. This was a delightful build, and was just what I needed. All the best everyone, Ray

Well I finally finished it. Two threads and at least one KUTA later the alternative Nimrod is done. The rationale was that the ‘proper’ Nimrod didn’t get built and the U.K. wanted something in the P-3 class. Base kit is the venerable Airfix Vanguard. Eleven scale feet were chopped off the front. The opportunity was made to add a bomb bay. Torpedoes are sprues, the long range fuel tank is part of an Otaki P-51 drop tank. The Leigh Light is a 1/72 SNEB rocket pod with the lens off the 1/48 Hunter (GA.11?). This was a trial and a chore towards the end. Anyhow, enough verbiage Just don’t look too closely. Trevor

Hi, guys... this is my latest offering, converting the 1/32 scale Revell Ju88 to a Ju188. I made this kit some years ago, but doing a review of my stored kits, I decided to take this one and refurbish it. It was finished as a reconnaissance version used by 1./Aufkl.Gr.33, which was found in Denmark at the end of the war, but I wanted to revive the kit by changing the version to a bomber of 1./KG2, found abandoned at Bron near Lyon, France, in September 1944 by US troops. Although the bulk of the model is the Revell kit, the bulk of the work was making the necessary changes using the AIMS accessory kit, including replacing the engines, adjusting the wing/aileron and horiztonal tail/elevator tips and attaching the entire Ju188 forward fuselage including the cockpit, which is supplied as one piece of cast resin, and then adding in the relevant details to that area. The horizontal tail and rudder were also resin replacements. The dorsal turret was largely PE parts with some plastic card added to complete the assembly, and the bombs and bomb racks - absent from the Ju88A-1 kit from Revell - were sourced from that company's Ju88 A-4 kit. The canopies are vacuformed parts - not a strong point of mine working with these - but I was quite pleased they turned out better this time around, albeit not perfect. I also felt the exhaust flame dampers were too long and took time to shorten them after looking at wartime photographs. Future was applied to all transparencies at the end of the build, and this really helped in creating more clarity. The nose cannon and bomb sight were also additional pieces to be added in, and the parts representing the engine cowlings and their mounts had to be adjusted as well, due to a slight mismatch of the parts. Thanks for looking in... ;-). _________________ Basic details after starting work on cockpit. Instrument panel with transfers used to recreate the detail. Side panels on the pilot's side of the fuselage. The assembled fuselage. Modification to the horizontal tail and elevators; the wing tips and ailerons had extensions added as well. The assembled sections so far. The rear canopy section with the centre removed to accept the dorsal turret. Three images of the turret assembly. The detail in the forward nose area, with the rear of the cannon and its spent cartridge shute and support struts, and the bomb sight just visible beneath. Underside paint work, where the initial shade was a smoke black, later overpainted with a slightly darker shade onto the main panels, and creating some contrast by leaving the sections in between in the original shade. Two images of the undersides after the bombs have been attached - the bombs and their racks were sourced from Revell's Ju88A-4 kit. And these last two photos are of the completed model.

Purchased this kit for $5 dollars....not a fan of WWII stuff but seriously at those prices I can't seem to stop buying them. Took a poll on my Facebook modeling group on which scheme & markings people would like to see for the video. They decided on the standard German scheme for the time. I was learning towards a captured bird. The cockpit is pretty simple and straight forward, painted it using Zenith highlights (I have a video on how to paint cockpits in zenith highlights on my YouTube channel if interested). Black-based the kit and added Zenith highlights to the leading edges and top. This will really create a visually appealing finish.....is it realistic, nope. I also used Zenith highlights on the kit as well. Build thread here:

I know just about nothing about scale modeling an aircraft but since the last built old Finnish Dakota neared the 10-year mark I decided to try again. Because my knowledge is thinner than autumn's leaf I didn't research almost any building techiques or other aircraft-specific means to build, just wanted to have fun. So the result is built with car-modeling knowledge with glossy surfaces, shiny metals etc. Because I have nothing where this would fit other than hanged from the roof I decided it would not have landing gear down, which is fortunate as no-one can look at it very closely. Tail decal was ripped off along with the lacquer when removing the masking tape and since the decal sheet was someone's DIY project I had no idea about shades of blue and white to mix paint for touch ups, the end result doesn't look good up close. But hey, I had fun with this, that's all I wanted. And it collects all the dust in kitchen roof as I wanted (not). Feel free to roast in any shape or form, I still have the A350 with Finnair decals (although it might take the next 10 years again) so any tips are welcomed warmly.

The famous Tamiya F-14a late model. The only modification is the interior of the Kvita. The kit is very good. But it was a shame to find a lot of sink marks on the wings, stabilizers and vertical stabilizers. The Tamiya decal is a particular disappointment - great colors and geometry along with incredible thickness.

Cockpit near finished. I still need to add the throttle quadrant and will do so towards the end of the build. Otherwise, it will get broken off in its very exposed position on the top stringer above the radio controller. I also want to find some good images of what happens in the gap from the back of the IP to the firewall and add a little representative detail. Another detail I still need to add are the top cover plates that close the gap at the cockpit entry between the top stringer and sidewall. As usual, macro photos are punishing, in particular, up close in such a small scale, but, if you're going to go the extra yard, then I can think of no better subject than a Boomerang with its nice roomy cockpit and big canopy. Fuselage halves are glued together ... finally. Ray

Let's see where we are in daylight tomorrow: The wings might need another coat; or I could simply claim it's a modulation effect. Regards, Adrian

Finished up my latest build, the 1/72 Spitfire Mk Ia starter set from 2013(?) I tried to add detail using as many of the existing kit parts as possible. I was able to drill out the exhaust manifolds. I cut the kit cockpit door out with a razor saw, and thinned it using a sanding stick. The kit canopy was cut apart with a razor saw, but I ended up cracking the sliding portion while trying to thin it out. I used that portion from a Falcon vacuform canopy. Paint is Vallejo Model Air throughout, topped with Vallejo premium satin varnish. Weathering was done with oils, pastels, Tamiya Weathering Master, and a silver artist pencil. I used Eduard seatbelts, from their "early RAF" 1/72 set. They look off, so I'll likely do a little surgery on the next set I use. The holes in the bulkhead and instrument panel were drilled, and details added. It doesn't really show well, but I made the reflector glass on the gunsight from spare plastic stock. I used the kit decals, supplemented with Techmod stencils. I purposely didn't stencil the "night" wing, as it could have been painted in the field. I also used Uschi rigging wire for the first time. It was nice to work with, but difficult to see! The rigging wire from the mast to the fuselage has since been corrected. It's not perfect, but this was a fun, relaxing build overall. Feedback is always welcome and appreciated. Thanks for looking!

This here is a bit of a model that I've noticed a lot of questions and wonder about. So let me copy the wiki text for clarification: The FG 227 was a scale flying model of the Blohm & Voss BV 238 flying boat, built to provide data for the development of the BV 238. The proposed Blohm & Voss BV 238 flying boat was to have an advanced hull design which had never been tried before. The Czech Flugtechnische Fertigungsgemeinschaft Prag (FGP) was engaged to build a quarter-scale test aircraft. The FGP 227 was a faithful, approximately quarter-scale model of the proposed design, having a long, narrow hull with a high-mounted wing and conventional tail. The pilot sat in a front cockpit and the flight test observer in another one aft of the wing. Power was supplied by six 15.7 kW (21 hp) ILO F 12/400 air-cooled two-stroke engines driving three bladed propellers, mounted along the wings. The model was completed early in 1944, registered as BQ+UZ and fitted with a temporary wheeled undercarriage of ten small wheels fitted with low-pressure tyres. Intended to allow flight tests to commence from the manufacturers airfield, the FGP 227 refused to take-off from the grass airfield. The aircraft was dismantled and transported to Erprobungsstelle See, Travemünde (E-Stelle - flying boat testing station). During transport French prisoners of war loading the wing onto flat-bed trucks allowed it to fall from a crane causing damage which was not repaired until September 1944. Flight tests commenced in September 1944 as soon as the repairs were completed, but all six engines stopped due to fuel starvation soon after take-off, resulting in a heavy landing on the water. The FG 227 was again repaired after which the aircraft flew several more times. By this time construction and testing of the BV 238 had started, so no useful data was gleaned from the programme. So we can say that it is a scale model of model airplane with a slightly unfortunate fate. Anigrand's sesin was pretty decent and went together nicely in every way. Only the propellers were a little faulty and incomplete. I also have a BV 238 Airmodel vacu kit on the shelf, and I will finish it someday to stand next of this little thing.

Finally finished, what a kit and one that I'd build again as it was so enjoyable. Nice engineering and beautifully detailed, no major issues just a few things that was a niggle. Detail goes soft as you go around the curves top and bottom of the fuselage - that's a limit of the moulding so it just needs a rivet tool and a scriber to pop right. The main gear bay cross beam on my kit was bent up to right angles, it could of been better protected in the box. So what did I use? Brassin cockpit Brassin Exhausts Brassin Metal gear legs and resin wheels - Detail on the legs is light years from the already good kit parts. WIP is here:- Painted with Mr Colour SM paints, MRP and Tamiya LP paints. Primer - Mr Surfacer 1500 Black. Metallic's thinned with Mr Rapid Thinners and varnishes thinned with the standard Mr Colour Thinner. Airbrushes used:- Iwata TR-1 (0.3) Iwata Revolution (0.5) Iwata Custom Micron (0.23) Size comparison - A-1 Spad Cheers for looking in

Hobbycraft Sabre 6 done as Boeing chase aircraft 23363.

I've got to a stage now where the major construction of the wings is more or less done. With the nacelles sitting pretty, I then set about adding the Fonderie cowl flaps, bought some QuickBoost carb intakes and added those, made up some oil coolers from some bombs from the spares box, and then test fitted the Fonderie props for fun! This morning I gave the wings a quick spray of primer to tie everything together, and I must say I'm pleased with how they are now looking: Time to start detailing the gear bays and bomb cells, me thinks... More when there's more, Tom

Picked this up for £25 after reading about the various KV tanks that never reached production. The KV5 was a proposed tank mounting a 105mm cannon in a pretty monstrous turret. From my understanding production stalled during the Siege of Leningrad, then was phased out completely once the Soviets went back on the offensive. This is my third Takom kit after the King Tiger and the SMK and I'm impressed with the simplicity of this and the SMK compared to the King Tiger. Hull is simply two halves and side plates, and tracks supplied as individual links. I'd be inclined to swap them out for metal ones, although I'm not certain if the KV5 simply reused the KV1/2 tracks or had their own design. The only grief I had was the grabrails on the turret; I'd be inclined to replace them with brass rod if I were to build another. For some reason the kit comes with a 1/35 figure in what appears to be 1980's CBRN gear, it's a nice extra project but quite odd that it was added in the first place. It's certainly something unique but I felt it could do with something else, so I picked up a couple of generic T34 figures from eBay and paper maps. The map was folded with tweezers the same way in an actual map would be folded, then compressed a vice to get the folds to stay, and stained with an old teabag before stuck down with watered PVA. Positioning the figures was tricky; finding a spot for the standing guy was awkward and I had to shave the gunner's waist a fair bit for him to fit comfortably in the cupola. As a final touch I added a crate of booze from Miniart's set; it came with 24 such crates so I'm looking for any excuse to get through them. Overall an enjoyable build, I was stuck for a while at this point trying to think of ways to break up the green a bit more. I thought of adding snow similar to the SMK but decided to just call it finished. I was experimenting with the "pro" setting on my phone's camera so this one's a bit bleached as a result. I'm still wondering if the top of his helmet is a blemish or if it's meant to be like that? Thanks for looking, any comments would be welcome,

Aston Martin DB5 1/32nd From a 80's re-issue but with an original Roy Cross header. OOB build with a few extras: driver, internal rear view mirror, scratch built windscreen wipers. Build thread here:

This new project is dedicated to an aircraft that made aviation history and is still flying today, 70 years after its first flight. We are talking about the very famous Lockheed U2, a spy plane which was the protagonist of the Cold War and which carried out overflights in the USSR, China, Cuba, Vietnam and was subsequently used in all the conflicts of the last thirty years (Gulf War, Iraq, Afghanistan) and still today serving in the US Airforce. Born thanks to a proposal from Lockheed, it made its first flight in 1955 and entered service the following year. It is capable of reaching an altitude of 73,000 feet and having a semi-pressurized cabin its pilots are forced to wear a suit similar to those of astronauts, equipped with an independent oxygen circuit, which is essential in the event of an accident at high altitude. The model I intend to build is that of Special Hobby in 1/72 which reproduces the TR-1A version, created in 1981 by modifying the original airframes by lengthening the fuselage and nose by 30%. A large pod equipped with new, more up-to-date sensors was then added under each wing. The mold is from 2001 and being the only one on the market that reproduces this version it has long since become a rarity. The kit is a short run, equipped with a few pieces with very fine and sometimes imprecise panelling. In the box there is a set of resin details and a photo-etched sheet. The half fuselages are totally free of interlocking points so to facilitate assembly I made several holes at the contact points with a micro drill and then inserted small pins made from brass wire which will help glue the fuselage together. The cockpit is made up of three somewhat coarse resin pieces which, once assembled, do not fit well with the fuselage. This forced me to do a long adaptation job which also forced me to thin the side walls of the fuselage itself. I also removed the instrumentation that was printed in relief because I will be using pre-colored photoengravings that were actually dedicated to another version but which can be used with some modifications. The ejection seat, although reproduced quite well, does not hold a candle to the resin one produced by Wolfpack Design. This would actually be that of the SR 71 Blackbird, but, studying the documentation I collected, I discovered that the TR-1A is equipped with one of the same type so I immediately took advantage of it. Next steps: gluing the two half fuselages Luca

Hello there. Mainly, I was working on the main fuselage, applying putty to the main joint line and sanding it, then repeating the whole process where needed. I also managed to paint an engine along with the engine cover.

Before starting with the oils I used a prismacolor silver pencil to add/enhance the chips. Once again 502 Abteilung oils was used: I wanted to build “layers” of thinned starship filth onto of the ghost grey to represent multiple fuel spills from constant refuelling. 525 ghost grey (a grey green) 510 starship filth (my favourite) 002 sepia 006 burnt umber & 092 ocher blended together (to represent mud) Next I’ll be putting together the undercarriage. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)

With epoxy cured and all supports removed it looked OK. The wheels glued into the fairings, again with epoxy to give a little time for adjustments. Here is how it now sits on its own wheels. In the end I had to sand the tyre flats somewhat uneven diagonally to make it sit well on all four, but it’s not really noticeable so I’ll live with that. Steering linkage next.

BRGDS to ALL! TEMPEST DoubleGun! Have a fun! 🙂

Good morning everyone … as promised. Next up the dark green, or RLM62. Please feel free to ask questions or post comments. Dennis

Started work last night- painted the fuselage interiors and then glued it together. Interior detail consists of a seat and rudder bar that mount on the lower wing. You can’t really see much in any case, and I’ll be adding a pilot which will pretty much fill the cockpit. The Toko/Roden N.11/16 kit fuselages have the windscreen molded as a part of the fuselage. I just cut it away- but if I can find something suitable in the scrap box, I may fabricate a replacement. As molded….. After cutting it away…

Air intake is the last thing before I can start the yellow: Made from a squashed plastic tube covered in superglue to round it out. And here we are, ready for a yellow underside: The surface detailing is largely made from liberal coats of Revell 75 Stone Grey! I will start off with a couple of coats of Citadel Averland Sunset before breaking open the Humbrol 24. The thickness of the paint may make (de)masking a bit interesting...

Finished in Tamiya Bright Red with some pearl mixed in. I replaced all the carbon decals and cleared the rest to prevent any cracking. Added some 3d printed parts like chain and axle parts. Some progress pics here.

I was looking through & realised I never put my QRA shed diorama on this RFI. I posted it in the aircraft RFI but not here. Anyway I built a cardboard 1/48 QRA shed and this is how it looks Two bays and the accommodation block The Lightning is Airfix, but I could do with another for the second bay. I do have two Phantoms though And a couple of inside shots Thanks for looking

Having just finished the Aston Martin (on Friday), I fancied having a go at the E-Type Jaguar, having seen stevej60's excellent version. Here is the re-issued kit from the early 80's with an original header, from the actual kit I made back in the 70's. The 17p price tag puts it around 1971 so right on the cusp of decimalisation (RRP was 19p in 1972). It's screwed up courtesy of my elder brother, who threw it in the bin from where I rescued it, and have kept it ever since. I also have one of the orignal wheels from that kit. How that has survived all these years defies logic, but it will be incorporated into the kit as a hidden spare wheel for a bit of added nostalgia. Looking at the header, it looks to me very much like a Roy Cross "rough", rather than a finished piece. Everything looks vague and unfinished. Maybe it's deliberate, but if you look at his other car work from the period (Aston Martin, Morris 1100, Ferrari 250LM for example), they look far more polished. Just an observation. It will be finished as JDU 877E, the company hack that was loaned out for road tests for motoring magazines. In primrose yellow, with a gloss black hardtop, it is actually a Series 1&1/2, as the headlamps don't have the covers, but I think a bit of poetic licence can be applied. This is my 1/24th Heller E-Type of the same car, built around 1990. It's raining heavily, so no painting today, but Monday is looking good for a start.

Z was one of the early models of Honda's car manufacturing made to fulfill Kei-car requirements of the time. The model had a few different body styles available and all base models of those were equipped with four-stroke 356cc inline-2 which produced a whopping 31 of finest japanese stallions. 2-door sport models had high output variant of the same engine with eye-watering 36 horsepower with 9000rpm(!). When this was combined with optional 2-speed automatic it must surely have been on top of the "want" list of every petrolhead for its mesmerizing performance... Honda was sort-of forced to develop its own automatic transmission after they didn't find suitable one readily available since majority of automatics were developed by american companies for engines which didn't exactly lack any torque while the same time engines revved barely past 5000rpm. Honda's lawnmower sized engine would have lost half of its power just to get going and after the first time engine got to its 9000rpm redline the transmission internals would have checked out. The Z was imported over european markets were the engine was bored up to 598cc big block which performance was comparable to european 1-litre engines of the same era although a bit noisy when pushed hard (I wonder why...). 550kg weight made it really fun to drive although high speeds obviously weren't its party piece. On side note quite a lot of these apparently made their way into west germany where they were downsleeved to under 250cc so they didn't need a drivers lisence to drive (I'm not sure if I got this right, if there's any Germans here please correct me). --- I have always brushed these Arii's 1:32 minimodels aside without giving much thought after but I guess I was wrong doing so. One was available second-hand for very cheap and by one picture it did look actually quite sharp so I decided to give it a try. Didn't dissapoint, this is comparable to those old japanese "battery powered" models any day. Quite a few parts but details were sharp and quite good regarding the size of the model itself. So with careful building this will make into pretty model. With this one model experience I can recommend these. I think I'll buy more of these since the models do have quite unusual or exotic examples (mostly japanese though) and they are really cheap even when straight from supplier (you buy 5 of these for the cost of 1 tamiya). When I say minimodel, I mean less than half the size of the regular 1:24 car.

More progress off and on over the last week or so, resulting in the next (cockpit) stage being completed. Kicking off with the dashboard, I saw that everything is - or should be - unrelieved black so once I'd painted it I had the idea of silvering the instrument locations before applying the decals to encourage a little of the fine detail to show through once the decals were in place... ...and having applied the decals and finished the dash with a coat of Quickshine that turned out to be the case... While that was drying I set about painting the interior tub... ...and installing the pedals, seats, belts, gearstick and handbrake lever, all pre-prepared earlier. Now, the steering wheel. I've never had much success with simulating woodrim steering wheels but recently came across a Youtube how-to video and thought I'd give it a go. My local Hobbycraft yielded two Humbrol acrylics in differing shades of brown. Having first painted the rim with the darker colour I drybrushed some of the lighter colour over it using light random strokes in all directions, then finished the job of with a thick coat of Mr Hobby Aqueous clear orange that I keep for indicator light glasses. The orange had the effect of merging the previous coats slightly to give a surprisingly good end result... ...for a first attempt anyway! All that remained was to fit the lot together - firewall, dashboard, steering column and wheel. I was slightly dismayed to discover that the dashboard markings and the hole for the column didn't line up properly with the driver's seat but there's nothing I can do about it without making things worse so offset it will have to remain. This completes the interior module - for now anyway. On now to a LOT of panel prep before spraying the body. Thanks for looking in, more when I can find a suitable timeslot (or several!) to continue the build.

I took a run at it a few years back. Probably not the most accurate, but sort of looks like a Tornado.

The joint line, that fortunately is a real panel joint line, was filled with thin Kristal Kleer, which will be the base for a treatment with the Tamiya dark grey panel line accent colour later on. The seat and the last lever where then glued. That completes the cockpit, except for the windscreen. The scripts on the sides applied. It’s interesting that the car is so white... I did a little exhaust staining. Not sure how far to take it yet. After a couple of runs the car looked very black and messy down the sides, probably from both exhaust and oil. Fitting the wheel fairings. I started gluing the rear fairings trying to get them as straight and aligned as possible while the epoxy cured. The front fairings are still dry fitted here just keep the whole thing level. Then the front fairings are glued. It was surprisingly difficult to be sure of the alignment, everything is curved and throws illusions, but I think it will be good enough. It also became clear that some panel lines on the fairings are somewhat askew, but it’s too late for that now.

As promised. Only the yellow, orange, black and two aluminum shades to go. Please feel free to ask questions or post comments. Dennis

As promised. Just the two greens to go, please feel free to ask questions or post comments. Dennis

As promised, some pics of the kits that arrived this week. First up, for Tony @TonyW, the 747. It has markings for BA and Alitalia. Next, the B-N Islander. And lastly, the SR.N4.

Painting yellow, half way through: You can see the difference between Averland Sunset (orange) and Humbrol 24 quite clearly in the palette. I'm wondering if I've saved myself anything by starting the darker colour. Yellow used to scare me but it's just a question of lots of thin coats and patience.

I fitted the decals to the P-38 tonight (2 coats of floor polish were applied earlier today). I found that they turned out to be a set from a Hasegawa kit which somebody had cut to individual decals. That would explain why one of the nose ones are missing. Speaking of which, I took a photo of the nose decal, printed it onto white decal paper making 4 of each and gave them a coat of matt varnish. These were also applied, but I couldn’t cut the intricate shape as in the photo, so I just left them as a square. I think they look good anyway. The spinners were repainted with Olive Drab (1) to match the fuselage colour (which I thought was Olive Green), but I think they’ll need a second coat to fully cover the blue though.

Saab 37 Viggen First prototype Trollhätten, Sweden February 1967 Kit: Airfix 1/72 03015 1994 boxing Build thread: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235141646-saab-viggen/

Greetings tank fans! This build was started in the Tiger STGB earlier in the year, but never made it in the time allowed. I used an Eduard big photoetch set .... zimmeritt, fenders, mudguards and a lot of other details, which proved quite a challenge and was time consuming. Star decals were used and the tank itself was used by 3 kompanie, SS Pz. Abt 101 based in Normany in 1944 I wanted a finish that represents a Tiger that has been in action and looks well used, which I think I've managed. As usual, I'm my own worst critic! Painted with Ammo acrylics, weathered with oils, acrylics and Ammo mud. The build thread for this can be found here Anyway, here's the final result .... Thank you for taking the time to look, comments are welcome! Keith ☺️

Hello everyone! Buccaneer is one of my favorite planes) I built this XN977 from the Airfix kit. I supplemented the interior for the early Buccaneers and the seat set with Quinta Studio kits. I also added rivets. The decal for the XN977 from Xtradecal. The model is very pleasant to assemble. Unfortunately, I only recently learned that this particular plane did not have a fairing in front of the air intake, so there is an error. I used the wrong drawings and changed the panel lines in the tail section - also an error. It would be nice to change the rivets on the control surfaces, air brake and around the landing hook niche to external ones, but I did this on the XX900 model, which is still in work.

This is a resin 1/10 scale Bust of a woman ninja desert Fox, painted all in acrylics. Thanks for looking. Jim.

Hello Gents, Here I am again, with (once again) a Korean War item !! So, let's go on the flight deck of HMS Glory .... Xtracrylics paints, Flory wash and oil paint weathering.... As usual for me.... A Fleet air arm warbird with a Pin Up on it ?? Too tempting for this CC.... I added some bits on it, Barracuda guns, Eduard seatbelts and some plasticard here and there A real war horse that is credited with 118 sorties over North Korea ! from 821 NAS and mainly flown by Lt J.F.K "Sean" Mc Grail. I added antenna's aerials and a landing light too... It is amazing but SH have a tendency to make their 1/48 kits less detailled than the 1/72 ones.... And huh, rockets of course... I stayed measured with the weathering since the pics I saw show pretty clean aircrafts.... Soooo, It is now time for comments and family pics as usual... Don't you forget banters are mandatory... On we go for the other pics now...

A coat or two of Revell 79 Blaugrau as Ocean Grey: Going for 3rd gen AK acrylic RAF Dark Green next.

Hi, Nearly there. I need to add a couple dozen more stencils and the airbrakes. There are quite few things I could have done better, but I'm quite pleased with my 1940's F-86. Cheers, Stefan;

Hi everyone. I spent some time this week getting paint on. The Dark Olive green looked very dark but hey, what's what was stated. Once dry, I shot three coats of Humbrol Clear Coat, which glossed up but he surface finish didn't please me. So, I sanded it all back to a flat finish. Not wanting to repeat that, I took my life in my hands and shot a Tamiya TS Clear over it. I was expecting it to pickle the Clear Coat which is enamel based. t didn't, so I shot a second coat. It may be a tad too glossy for the scale but hey. I'm sort of happy. Decals as seen above came from the spares box. Intake and exhaust covers plus Remove Before Flight pennants, are from Tamiya masking tape with a coat of red acrylic. Here is the finished model... Enjoy the images... Thanks to the Mods for looking after the GB. An old kit but I enjoyed it. Colin

for that last floater (@Beardie You can indeed blow someone elses nose. I once did it to my wife. It was extremely funny. After I regained consciousness, my wife agreed )

and DONE !!! my first group build/subject and brought in on time on budget; more pics in the Gallery

I fairly quickly discovered I actually rather like the way white looks over a black base. PXL_20241009_184021496.MP by OutcastJoel, on Flickr I used the new Arcus acrylics with retarder from Mr Hobby and Vallejo thinner (the Arcus acrylic thinner isn't out yet) which ended up with a really satisfying gloss finish. I have never done a white model before so it isn't very clear to me if the finish got extra depth from the dark base or if it would have been just as nice over light primer. PXL_20241009_191242564 by OutcastJoel, on Flickr The downside of white over a dark base is that I used up all of my supplies of white paint so it is lucky that I have an order in the post from Arcus Hobby Color 🙂 With this model the whole point is really about the decals so it is very fortunate that they are seriously nice. Great design by Rush models and beautiful printing by Decograph. One thing is worth noting; they go down beautifully with Microset/Microsol or UMP mild decal solution, however in the past with a different set decals I hit them with the UMP extra strong decal solution and found that it made them go brittle before they settled in. So if you find yourself reaching for a hot decal solution, put it back on the shelf and if needed, just apply another round of Microsol. PXL_20241009_204001105 by OutcastJoel, on Flickr PXL_20241010_170645403.MP by OutcastJoel, on Flickr PXL_20241009_211359042.MP by OutcastJoel, on Flickr

I for one have become a big fan of Airfix. Maybe fit of Tamiya is a little better but not by much. What I like about Airfix is they always seems to have more interesting subjects. Their built up kits look fantastic on the shelf and as far as any of their recent kits I have built they were fun builds. Perfect? No, but I really do like their kits.

Today i went to SMC 2024. I had a blast! The level of scalemodeling is exeptional and really inspiring. I bought a lot of goodies and a new modelkit. Tonight i made a bit of progress on the building facade. I made the garagedoor, the door and the Windows including some broken glass. The resin parts from RT diorama really brings the building to life. Still need to add some wiring and hanging cables but she is close to the priming stage. I'll keep you guys posted. Cheers! 🍻🍻🍻

HOLE NEWS.....It's still there. They were supposed to ring and tell us when they'd be coming. We were out early on Tuesday, Off to my daughters to look after a poorly Grand Daughter. Got a call halfway there from the front doorbell. Explained we were out and they could access via neighbours garden. Nope, They just drove off. Heard nothing since. Maybe next week eh? BTW, The pipe is only about the size of a drainpipe! All that mess for that...TSK! On the modelling front though.. Tamiya cockpit green with added white and thinner to suit the airbrush. And the, Ahem, back end. It went on rather nicely. I used an even thinner mix for the belly to pre-weather it. And yet more weathering with brushes. For some weird reason, despite the lighting being the same, it now appears to be grey? But it's also lovely and scruffy. It still needs mud and Tamiya smoke but I thought I'd let this dry properly first. Keep the Comments and doughnuts coming chaps. I'll need the morale and blood sugar to fill in this hole by myself if no one comes this week!