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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/25/2024 in all areas

  1. Hi All I'm not sure if this belongs here but it is a flying machine I guess. Having seen one of these built by a friend at my local clubs meet I thought I give it another go. The last time I built this I was but a lad and it came with a Hercules. This is the Airfix classic kit built straight from the box using decals from the spares box. It's showing its age as I think I spent more time cleaning it up than actually building it. But boy have I enjoyed it, I already have another on the go. Also a "Herc" I finished a few years back, who's old enough or was luck enough to remember that classic. C'mon Airfix how about a newly tooled Mk2. Hope you like it Regards Glenn.
    25 points
  2. The Dorawings kit is a significant step forward in the products from outside the mainstream. Most of it went together very well. Most problems were self inflicted. The only significant problems with the Dorawings kit involve the nose section. That long nose probe is moulded as part of the fuselage nose and my first reaction was that it was unlikely to survive the building process. This was borne out shortly after assembly commenced when I realised that the end had gone missing and there was no trace of it so I did not know exactly how long to make the replacement. Repair was not an option. Even if possible it was bound to happen again so a replacement was made using brass tubing of various diameters but leaving the thinnest off until painting was about to start. There are several vanes supposed to fit on the probe. These are made from PE and there was no way my fingers could get them in position without them pinging off across the workbench. If anyone knows how to do it please tell me. The canopy is another problem. There were fitting problems but the real trouble for me was the masking. I could not get the masks for the window in the roof and the 'portholes' to stick in position and replacements had to be made without great success. I think that it spoils the look of the whole model. The NMF is Alclad applied over gloss black. After applying the NMF there arose a problem with the decals. See here for details https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235139192-dora-fairey-fd2-decal-problem/ The P1a was built many years ago using the Aeroclub vacform fuselage and the rest from an Airfix F3 but I thought that it should be included here for comparison as both originated at almost the same time. John
    19 points
  3. Here is my recently completed MiG-15 that was built as part of the 'Baby Boomers' GB using the Eduard 1/72 kit and finished in the scheme of an a/c from 176th IAP, Antung Air Base, Korea, 1951. Build log here: Stuart
    19 points
  4. As a bit of R&R during my recent, rather complex Vespid Tiger STGB build I finished off this Airfix Panzer IV in an Afrika Korps scheme. Not much to say other than it was like going back to the modelling Dark Ages, but good fun all the same. 🙂 With the long barrel option which you can also build from the kit:
    17 points
  5. This is the brilliant 1/72 Eduard Spitfire IXe in Royal Danish Air Force markings. I added Eduard Merlin engine and wing cannon resin. Adding the resin parts was not an easy task, but in the end i think it turned out ok. Thanks for watching. Drakendk
    16 points
  6. I built this one for my father in law who served as a UN soldier in Cyprus in the 70’es. The Danes borrowed a number of Ferrets from the Brits. They had British licence plates and Danish flags. The few photos of the real thing shows the vehicle in a redish/sand/brown color. I used a darkened Hataka RAF Gulf War Desert Pink for the painting. It’s the new Airfix kit out of the box. Enjoy
    15 points
  7. Here is the F-RSIN Viscount 800 finished as V.833 G-APTD of British United circa 1967. Tango Delta started life in 1959 with Hunting Clan which became part of BUA a year later. In 1970 BUA sold her to Arkia and she remained with them until retirement in 1979. I’m a fan of F-RSIN kits generally and their Viscounts in particular. This is my fourth Viscount and as I have said before they are among F-RSIN’s best kits, an easy build within the limits of short run moulding. Lining up all four engines takes a lot of checking and it is necessary to source alternative props since the separate blades and hubs provided in the kit are unusable. My replacements came from Aeroclub and had been in my “bits and pieces” stash for a couple of decades. As usual I filled the fuselage panel lines and did a bit of refining but generally everything was pretty straightforward. The only other point worth noting is that the nose wheel leg is rather vulnerable. My S.O.P. is to attach the undercarriage before applying the decals and I made a small sleeve from thin card held in place with masking tape which kept it safe. Paint is Halfords Appliance Gloss White and Racking Grey with Revell and Tamiya metallics. Decals are by Two Six. Like the Aeroclub props, the sheet was in my stash for years and I would guess it was designed for the S&M kit. Generally the decals fitted well except for the fin. I had to cut the fin decal into individual sections and apply the two halves of the stripe separately. The “BUA” titles looked too big on the F-RSIN fin so I reduced them to 80% using Affinity Photo my preferred (and much cheaper) Photoshop alternative. When I see the model photos I think I might have slightly overdone the reduction but there were variations between individual BUA Viscounts and I can live with the result. Thanks for looking and constructive criticism is welcome. Dave G Just for fun, an F-RSIN Viscount group portrait. L-R: Cambrian/BOAC V.701, Alitalia V.785D, GB Airways V.807 and British United V.833
    12 points
  8. WV318 started life as an F4 but after an accident was rebuilt as a T7 and in October 1964 was upgraded to a T7A. She was used to train Lightning and Bucaneer crews. One of the last 4 to serve with the RAF she was painted black to commemorate 40 years of the type. Purchased in 1996 by Delta Jets at Kemble she was a regular on the airshow circuit until 2012 when Delta Jets ceased operations. She passed through a couple of owners then ended up at the International Test Pilots School in Ontario and is currently in service there. I had the good fortune to fly her on my 60th birthday, a surprise present arranged by my wife, and 24 years later my heart is still in the skies of Gloucestershire. The model represents her as she was when I flew her with a satin black finish. She was repainted in gloss black shortly afterwards for the Hunter Jubilee. The model was built from the Revell kit with the PJ Productions resin T7/T8 conversion kit. The only significant problem was that the place where you saw the front end off the Revell fuselage appears to be about 2mm too far back which creates a problem as the recess for the front of the wing has to be extended forward to compensate. Unfortunately the PJ forward fuselage had already been mated to the Revell rear section before I found this out. I thought that I had a picture showing the problem but it seems to have gone AWOL. Fitting the vacform canopy was something of a struggle which required some building up of the cockpit sides. The paint finish is Xtrakit 'Night Black' with a satin finish after the decals had been applied. Decals came from an old Xtrakit Hunter set which included a set for the Black Arrows. They are not quite correct for this T7 but were the only set available as far as I know. I had some trouble applying them as they had a tendency to break up. As luck would have it the worst case was the upper surface decals on the wing where part of the outer white ring went adrift. I reckoned that it was better to leave it that way than try to paint in the missing bit. There was a bit of last minute panic when I discovered that contrary to the instructions in the coversion kit this T7A was fitted with a tailhook and I had to make one. One is actually supplied with the kit for the T8 version but in my case the hook had been broken off before I received it (It was secondhand from Ebay) John
    11 points
  9. Hello all! This is my new model. The excellent quality set As an addition I used 3d decal from Kelik. Painting Tamiya color. Weathering oil paint washes and watercolor pencils.
    9 points
  10. Despite early issues with noise levels, the progression of the rotor tip jet design led to a more satisfactory decibel level that paved the way for a niche service operated by the Fairey Rotodyne. Its ability to serve more remote parts of the UK that never had the benefit of runways made it popular due to it's flexibility of cabin design where seats could be removed and freight loaded with ease via the large rear doors. It entered service with BEA in the mid 60's and served into the late 80's with British Airways in a largely similar and uninterrupted capacity. Capability evolved through the addition of upgraded avionics, a radar and more powerful engines and it's service demonstrated an excellent safety record. Operating costs eventually brought about an end to it's role, some of which was replaced by more economical replacements, but some services were sadly ended as BA re-evaluated it's commitments. Of course, this is a 'What-if', the re-released classic Airfix kit that I couldn't wait to have a play with! I'd had this idea for a while and being a 'What-if' took the pressure off creating something accurate. It was about pure fun and nostalgia! The basic kit is well....basic! sink marks and an abundance of rivets typical of that era are present. I wasn't against keeping the rivets, however many had to be destroyed filling sink marks and removing seams so it was easier to remove them all and re-rivet afterwards. The Negus livery was painted and spare decals used for the lettering. The home printed registration was chosen due to being approximately from the era that would have been first flight and being one of the few serials that wasn't assigned to an aircraft (based on my quick research!). The paint is all MRP lacquers, with the blue being a mix of Oxford & Blue hornet blue. Thanks to those that contributed along the way with advice and inspiration The build thread is here: The interior was fitted out with some seats from an OO gauge railway carriage and pre-painted figures added to bring it to life. The windows were sanded flat to remove distortion so that the interior is more visible: Thanks for looking Neil
    8 points
  11. Hi all, Here is my m3 scout car by zvezda. It’s brush painted in ak third gen od base colour. I used oil paints, ammo enamels wet effects, pigments and homemade mud for the weathering. Added a driver (who looks to be a bit shocked that he’s driving). I made up some stowage. The tarps are the fingers from a nitrile glove, bounded with led wire for straps and copper wire buckles. The scrim is a fruit net and dried moss… sounds odd but works ok. It’s an older kit but went together soundly enough bar me snapping the front axle a couple times! The sun came out in Ireland for one day so took the pics whilst I could. Only just realised I’m missing a front headlight that I need to re attach… if it’s in the box I had it in. I’ll be adding this and the kits below to a diorama set in the west wall/Siegfried line. It’ll be a few months before I finish as I’ve a couple tigers to build for the tiger stgb (if anyone is interested in joining its until end of June.) All comments and feedback welcome. All the best, Paul
    8 points
  12. Nice little kit straight out of the box. as ever with Tamiya the figures are just about OK but lack any discernible character, which is a shame. Mounted on a circular wargame base. All paints are Vallejo acrylics, mud is Polyfilla with added brown paint rather than water and scatter materials are just bits from the drawer inc. some bits of static grass, there is gloss varnish in the tyre ruts (not that you can see it much). Doesn't look as dirty as I wanted to achieve but I sort of chickened out on the process! I might revisit it at some point as straight after I took these pictures I dropped the model and although there is no damage, nothing broken, the riders have come off the bike and the bike has come off the base. Grrrrrr...
    8 points
  13. Finishing work on the guns. First, I completed the ready use racks for the wing 6 pdrs. These sit inside the breakwater wings forward of the capstan bars Than I completed the assembly of the 12 pdr cradle and barrel. This turned out harder than I expected as the gun shield support bars clashed with the sight support, so a new solution had to be found and made, worked ok in the end. Apart from that and the double curvature of the breach shield (added from the etch sheet), it was very straightforward, love those castings Here is the completed gun on its mount with 10 solid shot shells in the ready use rack And sitting on its platform, now painted but not yet fixed in place. Note the canvas awning hooks added to the wing shield and from above, anchor bed cranes also fitted and that weird steering platform the small wheel. This picture includes two of the 6 open hatches, each with its own short ladder into the dark (which you can't see in that shot, sorry) I'm really debating in my mind the colour of the handrails and stanchions. The off-white I've used doesn't look right compared to the pictures. Take a look at these guys in their duffel coats on a 36-knotter TBD (HMS Sturgeon 1897. This ship is not Spithead Review, looks in use trim That's not white, but it's also not black, compare to the hatch. So, I'm thinking it may be the pale grey I've applied to the turtleback (and the back of the gun shields), thoughts anyone? Meanwhile, here are the full crew of Sturgeon credits to the Dreadnaught project, deck pictures are so rare Cheers Steve
    8 points
  14. Test build Source: https://www.facebook.com/magicfactory2021/posts/pfbid0hXz43dzZ3prZbcr5vUHGJCYHaBy71bVTr5vpf6hPQpztHsKKsf8zj4RMY6ppgWLKl V.P.
    8 points
  15. Hey Everyone. As you may recall, I have been trying to challenge myself with attempting more model airplanes and getting myself out of my armored comfort zone. Yes, the guy that "Hates Building Airplanes" has stuck to it and is trying to fall in love. I'm getting closer. I started with the 190A Wurger, then onto the F4U-1 Corsair and now I've tried riding my first Mustang. Again, I know this is probably the most modeled airplane there is and I did my best to achieve two things; 1. to do my first ever NMF and 2. Attempt to do the Mustang the justice it deserves with an appealing to the eye portrayal of this machine. Not sure I achieved either in my first attempt, but it's a good starting off place to learn from moving forward. I chose to try Eduard's Mustang Mk IV, stationed in Italy at the end of the war and part of the "Shark Squadron". I've always liked the shark mouth's on WW2 planes and although I was worried about using a decal for it, it turned out to be the best decal of the bunch. (More on this below). Truth be told, I am not a die hard fan of the Mustang. I think it's beautiful and I understand the significance of it's role in WW2, but as a subject it's not my first pic. (I like the P-47 better...that's next.) But, I decided to enter into a STGB here on Britmodeller (also a first group build for me) for the stang and this is it. We'll see how it goes. I think it's important as a modeler to sometimes do models that are not your first pic, and use them as a learning experience and to challenge your skills in a new way. It's so easy to do the same thing over and over again...kinda like me with Tigers... Anyway, Tiger addictions aside, I gave it a go with this Mustang and it was actually a good experience overall. The Build Not only was this my first stang and NMF, but also my first time doing an Eduard kit. I'd love to say it went well, but alas, it really didn't. I had some monster fit issues with with the fuselage. I guess there are two guide pins near the cockpit that really need to be removed. I didn't know that (why would I) and had to use some serious muscle strength to get it to go. It created quite the warp around the cockpit which of course caused a chain reaction of problems down the line. I was able to get it to work, but it wasn't pretty. Everything else in general went together well. I wasn't looking to do anything crazy, at least not on this build. I'm taking it slow as I ooze into planes. The Eduard details are great and aside from the fit issue, I enjoyed it. The NMF I did the best I could. I've never done one before, so this was a new experience. I'm so used to painting in yellows, greens, and browns. All FLAT. I knew this would be a whole new experience. You can read more about that process below if interested... Then came the DECALS! Oh my word. These of course are the new Eduard "peel film" decals and at first I was both excited and petrified at the process. I watched several tutorials before attempting. I did everything to the letter BUT ran into problems. First, I am a microset, microsol dude. I was out of both. I had decided to try something stronger with Mr Mark Setter and Softer. I was excited as I like Mr anything usually. Yah, they both caused monster issues with the paint. This was of course AFTER I sealed my work with MRP clear as well as FUTURE, which I thought would guarantee no issues. Wrong, even after 24 hours of cure time, when I would apply Mr Mr, I would get paint issues. Blotches of residue. No problem, just use some water and wipe away. Yah, no go. I had to sand back, repaint with the decals in place. Only thing that saved me was some good AB skills. Very frustrating. After I got that resolved, I let the decals dry 24 hrs. OK, so just peel and remove yah? WRONG. Although I could get the film to give way, it of course came with the decals in tow. I had to make a decision, try to finesse my way through or kill the removal and make do with the film on. So, I kept the film on. I knew proceeding forward with all the decals would guarantee ongoing issues. I even had a test subject with a spare decal, large marking. Still had the same issue. So, I had to go back to Mr softer and work the film back on. Again, now causing paint issues, again. UUUUUUGGGGHHHHH. I did finally get to some middle ground I guess. BUT, I had to forgo using all the stencils. It was just too many opportunities for problems. I used vital ones, and had to leave the rest off. I'm OK with it really. I know some modelers will scoff at the idea, but to me, perfection with a model is not mandatory if you can enjoy the final result regardless of faults. That's just me. This is a hobby. In any case, this is my Mustang. Mistakes and all. I have fallen in love with trying NMF and am already preparing to do a Tamiya P-47D in NMF next. I have already bought decals for it as I know Tamiya is really not the best. Hope you enjoy the pics and please feel free to comment, critique, and smash if needed. Cheers, Graeme
    7 points
  16. Dear members, I like to show my recent rebuild of my very old Mack AC, I build this model in the late eighties and it spent all those years in my cabinet. On internet I found some photographs of restored Mack AC trucks which had a more modern look not surprisingly, the AC series were build during many years after WW1. So after a critical look at my model, I decided that it was time for an overhaul. How it was : After carefully taken apart I made the chassis about an inch longer, built a closed freight "box " , modified the front fenders and a new cabin, with closed doors. Some time ago I had made some resin cast tires, which I could use on this model. I printed some decals on my PC, but later on I was not happy with the results, last weekend I designed, drew and printed new ones, which I like a lot better. I made up my own transport- company, :-), so I can use the design for later models. Here the pictures how this modification turned out, I hope you like it: Kind regards JohnHaa
    7 points
  17. Source: https://www.facebook.com/ibgmodels/posts/pfbid0X6XKn3k2Asck8cEJBmxktDauboCKJ1TXpgbcdtuAjwtt9tymQ5EzuP4Hycg7W8Dql V.P.
    7 points
  18. Here is my second build for the 'Boomers' GB. MiG 15, Korea 1951 using the Eduard kit in 1/72. Build Log here: Thanks for looking. Stuart
    7 points
  19. Hi all Engine as is in the AIMS set is finished. I have seen some period photos of the aircraft and the cowl supports looked like a silver colour so I added the intake cones and painted them as such. Some weathering of the exhaust stubbs and collector ringvinside has taken place as well as some oil spill/spray on the inside of the cowling. And glued into the cowling I have really enjoyed making this engine, AIMS are certainly to be congratulated on producing such a wonderful engine set, very highly recommended. I might have a look at making the rear cowling supports, not sure yet. Very pleased with this Thanks for looking in. Chris
    7 points
  20. Master Box 1/72 Mark I Male “Special Gaza Modification”, built out of the box. The kit was actually a pretty easy and enjoyable build, but is sadly let down by the awful rubber band tracks that simply refused to hold paint, nor respond to traditional adhesives. Thanks for looking.
    6 points
  21. Thomas is 32 years old and he is still single. One day a friend asked, “Why aren’t you married? Can’t you find a woman who will be a good wife?” Thomas replied, “Actually, I’ve found many women I wanted to marry, but when I bring them home to meet my parents, my mother doesn’t like them.” His friend thinks for a moment and says, “I’ve got the perfect solution, just find a girl who’s just like your mother.” A few months later they meet again and his friend says, “Did you find the perfect girl? Did your mother like her?” With a frown on his face, Thomas answers, “Yes, I found the perfect girl. She was just like my mother. You were right, my mother liked her very much.” The friend said, “Then what’s the problem?” Thomas replied, “My father doesn’t like her.” Simon.
    6 points
  22. After the day I had at work today, I needed to relax. I decided to start pre-shading this bird. I'm reminded of a line from the John Wayne movie "Big Jake": "Oh, mister. You shouldn't of ought'a done that." It looks like it was done by an epileptic baboon with a bad case of the DTs! Definitely not an example of my best work! 😳 I think I over thinned the paint. I was using a double action brush at about 10 psi, trying to get in close enough to see what faint panel lines there are on this kit! Maybe tomorrow I'll flip it over and do the top. Never try to do detail work when you're frazzled.
    6 points
  23. The end, after over two years the model was finished. It was supposed to be a relaxation model, and that's exactly what it was. Even though I added a bit to it, it is one of those models, as some say, made half-heartedly. As a typical shortrun, it required a lot of work, and a few things could be improved, such as the rotor, which had to be made completely from scratch to avoid imperfections. Similarly, the dividing lines are so large that it would be best to flood them and re-route them. But as I said, it's a relaxation model, so I gave up on it. Nice watch. In the rays of the setting sun. 😄 And a little comparison. The time separating these models is over 25 years. A few photos of the helicopter's interior.
    5 points
  24. Here is my take on the german Sd. Kfz. 222 scoutcar. A nice kit from hobbyboss. A lot of nice details, crisp moulding of the parts and overall a joy to build. The figures are from Warfront. All comments are welcome. Thanks for stopping by and taking the time to look.
    5 points
  25. Another Kate ? Yes, I was so lucky to get my hands on a second one ! Although there were no B5N1 at Pearl Harbor, I painted this model as a bomber of carrier Shokaku : - upper surfaces : hairyokushoku with lightly mottled green - under surfaces : ameiro - weathering : none - tail markings : EI (Shokaku carrier), 310 (torpedo bomber n°10), no stripes => wingman The only obvious difference with a B5N2 is the bigger size of the engine, and consequently of the cowlings. The opening in the cowling is home-made and is probably not accurate. Too good a chance to miss building this plane with the folded wings option, especially as I had already built another Kate. The idea to represent the unfolding operation I copied from a model seen on the net. However, I wonder if the wings were really unfolded manually in this way. The colour of the interior parts is that strange “aotake”, but look at the Zero at the Pearl Harbor Aviation Museum, if you don’t believe it ! This plane carries a 1.760 lbs armour piercing bomb, and again this is historically wrong … These bombs were specially designed to hit the American battleships moored on the inside (which could thus not be hit by torpedoes) ; the crews of Shokaku (and Zuikaku) were not deemed experienced enough to handle these bombs, and thus carried the standard 500 lbs bombs (2 pieces) -- as shown on the trolley. Carrier deck : home-made (but check LMG and Kelik products for better alternatives) Crew : Airfix USAAF Personnel + RAF Personnel + German Mountain Troops.
    5 points
  26. The images for those that don't like FB.
    5 points
  27. Finally some more progress load of sanding and the choice of greys paint on
    5 points
  28. Very much appreciated gents. Thanks @Quiet Mike, @elger, @dogsbody, @CH-53D, @cobraleader, @AdrianMF, @Hamden. Masking done, at last. Then some Dark Earth laid down. A check on that later then mask for the Dark Green. Simon, Bangers and Mash and windyberries tonight.
    5 points
  29. For a while now, it's been difficult to get Mr Surfacer's 1500 black primer, but last week I found some and ordered 5 pots. They arrived today and I immediately put it to good use. We're now finally rid of that ghastly red. Now, in order to get a brighter red I will re-prime this lot in grey. Red over black takes ages to cover and you end up with a much darker red too. But the black is my favourite for covering that red plastic in a hurry. The chassis is already in grey primer, since it will be painted black. Easier to see where you've painted and which spots you missed with the black chassis paint, I'll probably use semi gloss black for it.
    5 points
  30. Information missing from the above quote is the fact that the 'old jalopy is in fact Monty's old Desert caravan/truck which he 'found' in a Military museum and has had on loan since the Korean war when Captain Darling fudged the loan chit paperwork . It's not very fast and is often blamed for the slow traffic on the Lincoln bypass and the road out to Skeggy where Baldrick uses it for selling his 'savoury' ice creams. I'm told the roast beef & Yorkshire pud flavour is indescribable.
    5 points
  31. For the love of God NOOOO!
    5 points
  32. Thanks for the images of the vac-form moulds, is there a need to vac the flat panels? I take it you have already 3D printed the vac-form machine!! Ha! Colin
    5 points
  33. Oh really, maybe you ought to search out a photo of the real thing before making criticisms. Looks pretty accurate to me.🙂
    5 points
  34. On the surface it looks like not much progress has been made, but miniart seem to have a knack of turning a part that could be moulded in a couple of parts into an assembly that has multiple small fiddly little parts that all need cutting off without destruction and cleaning up before adding, all with the added threat of the carpet monster lurking in the shadows to claim any dropped pieces, would be bad enough in larger scales, but 1/35 it's a bit of overkill 😀 There are 59 pieces in the picture to give an idea what my aging eyes and sausage fingers are going through, I reckon they could have cut that down to about 25 without any loss of detail 😅
    5 points
  35. Time for another update! I've carried on with the red on the helmet, I've added mephiston red to most of it except the bottom of the sides and the back which are most in shadow, oh and also the inner side edges. IMG_20240424_194340878 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Then I added evil sunz scarlet to the upper edges, I started by brushing a stripe and then stippled the paint on to help blend it down into the mephitson red. IMG_20240424_194943701 by Nick Frost, on Flickr The final step was to mix some white into the evil sunz scarlet to make a final bright highlight for the upward facing edges and the scratches IMG_20240424_195142707 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240424_195150260 by Nick Frost, on Flickr I was planning on moving on to the green next, but I couldn't resist getting the gold badge on his helmet done first. That way the head is done, but also I've been looking up more nmm techniques for gold and wanted to have another bash at it. I've done it once before on the below minature, and enjoyed doing it. But I feel like I know a bit more about what to do now as I've found a good set of shades that work well together, I started off by mixing 50/50 vallejo scrofulous brown and citadel mournefang brown as a base coat. IMG_20240424_200046504 by Nick Frost, on Flickr From there I put the first step towards the highlights with pure scofulous brown in the light spots, and then did the opposit by adding pure mournefang brown to the shadow areas (including painting a line between all the bits of the badge) IMG_20240424_200803549 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240424_201239163 by Nick Frost, on Flickr From there I added more and more white to the scrofulous brown to get my highlight colours working in smaller and smaller areas. IMG_20240424_201239163 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240424_201524314 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240424_201846232 by Nick Frost, on Flickr In the below photo you can see I added a small amount of the highlight colour to the bottom of the bade stripes just as a small edge highlight, then after the final bright highlight I got some black paint and put a thin line between all the sections of the badge to help with contrast and to define it all. IMG_20240424_202157523 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240424_202157523 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240424_202310456 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240424_204353205 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20240424_204418868 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Pretty pumped with how the gold turned out, although its a bit daunting knowing I now have to replicate that on the much bigger and more detailed shoulder pads!! Next though up before I do the rest of the gold I'll get the green gloves and belt sorted out. Thanks for looking, more soon
    5 points
  36. Not much left now finally. The body is done up to this point. I still need to add a few more decals. The railings are soldered brass, my first attempt at it. I don't know how the train guys do it. I know I need to get better and find a better way to do it. These came out good though. Oil tank is plumbed now, spreader bars(those green pipe looking things). I had to make a spacer for the rotator to sit on because it was resting on the sides. After all the dry fitting it all still needs adjustments. The truck is very heavy now and doesn't like to be lifted unless from the front and rear only. The rotator boom is almost done, few small parts to add and a few small touch ups.
    5 points
  37. Yes, it's basically for bomb and rocket aiming. You put the target under the leading edge of one of the stripes depending on entry height, and then turn in with a given speed. Here's the manual: https://archive.org/details/air-forces-manual-no.-64-fighter-gunnery-firing-rockets-dive-bombing-1-may-1945 And if you just want to get a sense of how to apply it from the cockpit, this will do it for you
    5 points
  38. After chasing a possum from the house this morning, fun times that. Poor bugger fell down the chimney and couldn't get out. I have been chipping away at the little mech. I need to take a break as my eyes and will to live are going. No it's not that bad I just find I have only a limited amount of imagination and after a bit all my chips look much the same. I'm not good at this kind of weathering so this is good practice. I think he at least look good on his base. Lots more stains and grime planed but he's looking a bit more lived in. Thanks for looking in. Dan
    5 points
  39. Special Hobby 1/72 Republic F-84F Thunderstreak 52-6570 20th FBW - Wethersfield 1958
    5 points
  40. Special Hobby 1/72 Republic F-84F Thunderstreak 52-6675 81st FBW - 78th FBS Shepherds Grove 1958
    5 points
  41. So it did have to come apart again one more time..... access to the firewall wasn't good for attaching all the little boxes and greeblies... but now, I think I'm calling this engine bay done, and moving along. The top radiator "hose" is some aluminum florists' wire I bought in several sizes for things like this and exhaust pipes and headers. It's very flexible but not floppy, and goes where you put it and stays there. The rubber ends are heat-shrink tube. The characteristic and brightly-colored "289 High Power" label on the air cleaner is a home printed decal... I found some old "Lazertran" paper lying around which promises that the inkjet colors dry and don't need a clearcoat, and to be on the safe side I freed the decal by putting the paper down on a damp cloth for a while rather than dropping it into water. The little boxes around the firewall, foot-wells and wheel wells are a combination of parts sliced from the original kit, some reading of a handy 289 Cobra wiring diagram and a Mustang parts supplier's online catalogue (want to know what the starter solenoid switch looks like? Pretend you're buying one...), and some creative "gizmology". I should probably put a wash bottle in there somewhere. There is a steering column that runs almost to the right place, and I did manage to slip in the two diagonal frame braces in a way that looks reasonably convincing, thanks to the flexibility of styrene rod and the reasonable amount of wiggle room through the frame as I was working them into final positions. Time to get the wheels and exhausts on and then finish up the cockpit... best, M.
    5 points
  42. Hello model builders, Well, work was slow over the last few days, so went about paint and weather in earnest, and now have a pretty rundown looking truck, which will hopefully look good hauling the equally decrepit drill rig. Unhappily, it's foggy here today, so sort of a dark day, which is relevant to me because my place has a few really big skylights - hence, sunny day = bright place; cloudy day, darker place, and pictures! I usually don't include pics of individual project elements, and despite the poor lighting, well, you'll see the engine and tandem rear end: I'm particularly happy with the photo directly above, as despite the headaches this rear suspension caused, I like what it looks like now! For at least right now, all of the added bolts look the part! With the poor lighting, it's hard to tell that the engine has several shades....oh well.....😄 And on to the cab and body panels dryfit: The protype I used happily includes ample rot and grime, and the fancy stripes! I must say, I was quite surprised to see how well the stripes worked - very little color bleed and uniform spacing of the lines - and then, well, some weather Now, the bigger victory: What a treat! it sits flat! On all ten! Now, back to the cab: Which only leaves the bed - it looks ok, but again...the light! Not that good for taking pictures of models.....😄 I'll mount the rig onto the bed, before mounting the bed onto the truck. What you can't see above is that the bed has some D rings for securing loads, and the drill rig has some too, so the plan is to chain the two together - which I suspect would be awful with the bed on the truck Alright guys, thanks for having a look - Cheers Nick
    5 points
  43. Vespid is just killing it with their 1/72 kits. Unreal detail with photoetch, metal barrel, link-and-length tracks, etc. Just great stuff. Painted with the new Ammo Atom paints, which are fantastic.
    4 points
  44. Hello all! Finally grabbed some time off to finish one of the shelf queens. This is the Fine Molds Chi-He, painted by my custom mixed acrylics, weathered as usual with oils , pigments and enamel washes. Only aftermarket parts are antenne, towing cables and the metal barrel. The tracks were the vinyl ones, just made them sag with the help of metal pins, strategically placed and secured with CA glue. Thanks for watching!
    4 points
  45. Hi All, It feels appropriate to be working on this Aussie pair on ANZAC Day, on what is always a most dignified and solemn occasion - Lest We Forget. First job of the day was to apply a gloss coat: The 'Y' code on the Tiffie is presented as Sky in the decals, whereas the photo clearly shows it to be white: I therefore applied stencils to paint in the correct colour: And after spraying: The decals were then applied to both: Here we are after a second gloss coat: @corsaircorp sorry there's no sharkmouth on the Kittyhawk, but it IS an Aussie aircraft!! I've just noticed how markedly different the roundel blue shades are - I will have to try and address that with a fading matt coat. As I write this I'm waiting for the gloss coat to settle down so I can apply a Flory wash, so it may be tomorrow before I post again - it seemed foolish not to take a day's annual leave to get a 4 day weekend! Thanks for looking, Roger
    4 points
  46. Thanks Dennis. Up at dawn for the service, and we’ve just had some Harvards and a Corsair fly over the RSA just up the road. Lest we forget
    4 points
  47. Thanks a lot for the nice comments. Decals: ✔️ Designed by Decograph, they are a bit odd. The carrier film is really thin. It merges almost perfectly with the surface when pressing the decals with a cotton bud after applying some softener. But on the other hand the coloured parts look a bit thick and they are definitely brittle. It took several applications of Daco Strong to conform them to the recesses and and air intakes, for instance. I had to "play" with the rudder decal as it was for Mirage IIIC n°91, when mine is n°46. I cut off and put upside down the "9" and was lucky to find a SAAF n°804 rudder decal in the box from which I could cut the "4"! I will have to do some touch ups with white paint but it could have been much worse!! A friend sent me some EC3/2 tail badges. Although I had the reference pictures at hand's reach, I managed to apply too low on the vertical stabiliser... Doh! Anyway, the decals bring some life to the NMF and look fine once applied: Contrarily to my habits, I will airbrush a coat of varnish because I am not sure the decals have properly adhered to the surfaces everywhere. Better be safe than sorry when I apply the washes...
    4 points
  48. Well, my Exeter is 99.9% complete! I finished the boats and glued them in place, total of 10 boats of different sizes and types. Rigging was added to each boat and cranes. In the case of the forward row boats, scratch-built rope winch reels were added. Minor modifications to the boat cranes as they represented some parts that are only used while deploying the boats, not while stored. Lots of time was devoted to thingies and dingies all over the ship, like these chain links in front of the wave breaker, no idea what they were used for. Around 80 figures were painted representing different uniform types, helmets were added to the crew of the secondary armament. The total of figures adding these to the ones that I had already added to the bridge area is around 100. And enjoyed very much gluing the figures wherever I wanted! Secondary armament got full crew of gunners/loaders. I added crew to the signal flags decks as well. Notice that the hull sides are still too clean, some weathering was added later, not much, the Exeter shows up quite clean in most pictures, even in the ones at the Falklands after the battle (I mean apart from the damage of course) Not forgetting the rear castle. Notice the ceremonial cannons. And some sailors looking last minute for their posts. The intricate hydroplanes platform is to me the most attractive part of the Exeter. After having glued everything in place, some additional retouches of weathering were added to the hull and superstructure, using Raw umber artist oils. And a final dull coat was applied (Tamiya Flat) And of course, I could not resist taking picture of it side by side with its archenemy, the Graf Spee. And so... why 99.9% complete? It is still missing the signal flags that informed the position of the Graf Spee at the beginning of the Battle of the River plate, E322. Still need to order them! I hope that you enjoyed this project as much as I did! Will post pictures of the final result after I add the signal flags. Marco
    4 points
  49. Bad General, Naughty General, Wicked General! Like I haven't got my tentacles full with anything else at the moment! Let's see shall we? Four Zeppelins in build, nearly one hundred photographs to annotate for the Zeppelin photo library, this kit underway, the daily search for suitable artifacts for the display and on top of all that, I have the Fair Elaine pestering me to get the Zeppelin book finished, like they can be conjured out of thin air! Would a thorough blurglecruncheoning speed thigs up? Or maybe beaming some Vogon poetry into the home of every citizen of Oz until the batch appears would be more effective? Helpful of Mars 👽
    4 points
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