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Airfix's JP T4 I think from about 10 years ago. They are built straight from the box using both sets of decals in the first boxing. I've used Mostly Mr colour paint and varnish all thinned with their fantastic self leveling thinner, the only exception being the red which came from MPR. The vehicles are from Oxford miniatures which I've slightly weathered, and the figures are from Italeri. A fairly straight forward build that I would recommend to anyone, hope you like them. Thanks for looking.

I've only just got round to taking pictures. Finally completed this just in time for presenting on our club table at Telford this year. Decals from Model Maker. Kit; Modelsvit 1/72 Su-22UM-3K Superb kit to put together but very much over engineered ejection seats otherwise it all went together really well. Brass pitot from Master, a must on this kit. Paints from the Hataka redline set except for the brown which was NATO brown from Ammo Mig. 3D printed ladders & choks from LP Models. There are tiger decals for the fuel tanks & I had attempted to get them to conform, but I failed miserably so I just hand painted the tiger markings on. The main fuselage decals were surprisingly easy to apply. Don't do what I did, fixed & painted the outer wings on upside down. Only noticed when i was applying the stencils on then realising the access panels didn't look right. Had to strip the paint off & started again & luckily I had more wing stencils available from another couple of decal sheets in the stash. Thanks for looking.. Martin

This was built & painted up for a club competition. Don't normally do 1/48 & don't know why, but I can't seem to get on with anything larger in scale than 1/72. Can't say exactly why, just a weird thing I can't explain. Probably because I've been doing 1/72 all my life! 😆 This is the Eduard Mk.Vc painted up as EE613 flown by S/Ldr Michel G.B.Donnet of 350 Sqn from RAF Friston June 1944. All info from Eduard's instructions, so that's all I know. No doub't someone will come in & say their info is wrong. I'm also certain that my extreme weathering isn't accurate either & I'll be told it's all wrong, but I don't care - this is how I wanted to do it! Also I tried these new Eduard decals & tried removing the carrier film. Not sure if I'm going to try that again, as there was a bit of an accident on the port wing upper roundel! Thanks for looking!

I have just finished this miniature of MiG-23MF of Polish Air Forces. Trumpeter kit is pretty decent one, but there is a lot of small issues, especially the fitting ones. Also there is a need to rescribe many of panel lines and rivets. So... a lot of work. I made it within over 4 months. Used resin nose from Metallic Details, air intakes, main wheels bay, wheels, missiles, ejection seat and exhaust nozzle from Eduard, pitot and dischargers from Master, decals from Model Maker and stencils from Eduard. Hope you will enjoy it.

Hi all, Here's my Phantom FGR.2 that I finished this weekend. It's the Revell rebox of the Hasegawa kit (the original one, not the recent one), which we are all pretty familiar with. Not a bad kit, but I did replace some bits of it with aftermarket. The wheels are Aires, the seats are Quickboost, the pylons are from Aerobonus. I was planning to just use the old Airdoc RAF Germany Phantom decals, but they turned out to be not so good. Not in register, undersized, and some colours were a bit off to me. So I also got some from a Model Alliance set, stencils from Xtradecal, and a few from the kit sheet. Painted with Mr. Color. I went for 31 Squadron markings, mainly because you don't see those often. Thanks for looking, Pete

After finishing the Vigilante and Tempest I've pulled out a kit I've wanted to build for a while, the Academy B17F. Now I know its not the most up to date or detailed kit of the B17 available which is ideal for the subject aircraft which is a formation ship from the 379th Bombardment Grp during 1942, also the wife found it in a charity shop with 2 other Airfix kits loose in the box. Turrets and all guns where removed and the crew was dropped to pilot/copilot, Flt Engr, Navigator, Rad Op and 1 observer. I not sure if any other equipment was removed such as the bomb aimer, oxygen bottles etc but I know that on the B24 formation ships they removed almost everything they could. Some sprue and decals shots. Academy's old style instruction sheet. HAD decals The Academy kits interior is billy basic but it won't be seen anyway so I've made a start on the front end.

This is the Heller 1:72 Arado Ar 196A which was first manufactured in 1979 - I had found an original boxing at a model show a few years ago. I'd expected the kit to be rather basic, as compared to current kits, so I'd searched for some extras. Fortunately it had been re-boxed by Revell so I was able to get: - a photo-etch set from Eduard (very comprehensive and including a complete new cabin and really nice detail to add to the floats) - a replacement cowling from Quickboost (a single piece avoiding the difficult seam in the kit parts) - new exhausts from Quickboost (the kit does not provide exhausts) - a replacement gun for the navigator from Eduard (fantastic detail but ever so teeny) - decals from Kora for two schemes aboard the Tirpitz (I'd expected the kit decals to be almost unusable, because of their age, but in fact they were missing) During the build I also bought a 'transport trolley' from Kora. I thought a floatplane on a trolley would look rather different - although buying it did change my weathering approach. I had originally thought of a heavily weathered plane as aboard Tirpitz but settled on an 'as new' approach showing the floatplane as if it had just rolled out and was ready for its' pre-delivery test flight. I did a WIP thread which is here: The proportion of p.e. to plastic was a new one for me and a challenge at times but I'm happy with the end result and if anyone has this kit I would definitely recommend the Eduard set. Here's the photos. all the best Mark The Eduard replacement cabin: The transport trolley - a little resin kit from Kora: Thanks for looking Mark

Although he’s rightly regarded as one of the greatest innovators in the history of Formula 1, Colin Chapman also produced his fair share of ‘duds’, a consequence of constantly ‘pushing the envelope’ to stay ahead of the competition. An attempt to expand on the success of the ground-effect Lotus 79 by extending the low-pressure skirted area right to the back of the car, the 1979 Lotus 80 seemed a good idea in theory but the reality was rather different. The skirts were now curved in between the rear wheels, but tended to jam in their guides at the wrong moments, mainly during braking when the nose went down slightly and the skirts lost contact at the back, causing a sudden loss of downforce. This caused pitching or ‘porpoising’ during cornering. Andretti tried to make the best of it, but it was abandoned after just 4 races, although he somehow managed to record a 3rd place finish in Spain. Team mate Reutemann refused to drive it and stuck with the old 79, which was now eclipsed by the next generation of ground-effect cars like the Williams FW07. One of the reasons I like building 1/43rd kits is that they enable one to build the failures as well as the successful cars (let’s face it, they are mostly ‘failures’...). Here is my Tameo/Silverline Lotus 80. A pretty good kit, although I didn’t like the treatment of the all-important skirts, which were cast on the bottom edges of the body and too thick and lacking in detail. So I cut these off and made replacements from 10 thou plastic, with proper runners along the lower edges. Quite a lot of work, but I’m happy how it turned out....

Hi, This is a 1:35 model of the Sherman M4A1, an American medium tank. This is Italeri KIT no. 0225. I made it as a traditionally movable model, of course. The additional parts are - the Friulmodel tracks, couple of small accessories like towing cables, jerry cans, helmets, bags, supply and ammo boxes. The model wasn't very detailed but I tried to add some details by myself. I hope you see it and like it. Models finished in 2021/2022 - "Sturmgeschutz III ausf G (1:35 vintage Tamiya)", "Matilda MK II (1:35 vintage Tamiya)" I invite you to see the rest of works on my site "about me"

Ju-87D-1 October 1942, Egypt

Hello all. I have now finished this little kit of the Boulton Paul Balliol. It is the Special Hobby 1/72 'Civilian and Foreign User' boxing, and I have done it as the Boulton Paul demonstrator aircraft. I was a bit concerned about the fit of the canopy as I had read and heard that it was not the best, but I had no issues with it at all. I sprayed it with a Tamiya Maroon rattle can as my interpretation of 'Plum Red' that was mentioned in the instructions. I found Humbrol 20 Crimson was a pretty good match when I needed to re-touch some of the paint work. I used the Peewit masking set for it, and that behaved impeccably. I have taken one or two liberties with what etch (from the kit) and what aerials to add so I know it is not a truly authentic replica, but I have to admit that I thoroughly enjoyed building this one. One thing I did notice at the end of the build was that the layout of the parts on the etch that was supplied was quite different to the illustration in the instruction guide, despite having the same reference number etch into it. The transfers tested my skills, but I eventually found how they liked to be treated. They were very thin, very opaque (contrary to my first thoughts), but did crack slightly before I found the solution. I bedded them down into Klear. Anyway, here is the finished result: I think this will be my last completion for 2023, and I am looking forward to next year and the Group Builds, where I will start off with a couple of Frog kits in the 'Frog Squad', and (maybe) a more up-to-date kit in the 'WWII Twins GB'. Thanks for looking, Ray

Had to put the Tiger to one side for drying reasons and needed something reasonably easy to tide me over. So something British for a change. This I bought a few weeks ago and looks a good culprit. Low parts count and a good looking tank and will give me some practice in painting green. I'm not sure what scheme it will be as there is a choice of two British and one Polish. We'll get to that at the end. As mentioned the parts count is low, the largest number being for the tracks. RFM tracks are normally good to make although these look a bit more complicated than German ones. So far it is going together easily. The flat pack tub is a tad tricky and another pair of hands would have come in handy. Some sprue goo was used to keep the sides in place, then proper glue was used to seal them together. No major problems to be found. A bit of cleaning up and some large plastic lumps had to be taken out from the ejector holes (all well away from sight), but nothing too complicated. Anyway, this should be a decent out of the box build. If anyone can suggest what Tamiya green would be appropriate to use I am all ears. Cheers all, have a good week.👍

I first purchased this kit at the Holbeach 2022 show & thought I'd start putting it together at our club table there & then. It was a random purchase & something to do in between my usual fast jets. I didn't complete it till later this year & after seeing these Bradley's being used in Ukraine in 2023 I thought why not make it topical & found some reference pics online of Ukrainian Bradleys in a pixellated paint scheme, which was made up from hand cut masks more or less copied straight from photos of an actual Ukrainian pixelated example. All paints are Ammo Mig as is the weathering pigments & washes. The added on stowage was a resin set from Legend productions. Oh and a photographic cheat for the interior! Thanks for looking! Martin

Another one from my collection...

The return of an old friend - I am staggered and somewhat appalled to see that I started this build 10 years ago. Those of you who know me well (& I have made many genuine friends via this site) already know that I have had a deeply horrible year; family illness, my own health intermittently poor, but above all a long-running (& still unsettled, at the time of writing) legal dispute with my employers that has been nasty and demoralising. As a consequence my mojo has taken a right bashing and I have done very little modelling for months; too much time wrestling with legal papers instead. As Christmas approaches, in recent weeks I have started to feel stirrings of wanting to get back to the bench, but in an attempt not to get bogged down in Ark Royal 3 sinking the Bismarck, my mind wandered to the Ark of my era (Ark Royal 5, in which I did my first front line tour, flying Sea King HAS5s of 820 NAS). Photos to follow, since the first task is to go over the beast with a fine-tooth comb and remember what still needs to be done (a lot, is the short answer!).

I've made Revell's B747-8i in a concept Lufthansa livery. The kit went together easily and except for the 2 of the engines, it fits together well. I made this livery because I was converting this kit, which I had already started, to be a British Airways 747-8i concept (because BA never operated the -8i), and while using paint remover it went wrong and I didn't think I was able to salvage it well enough to make the BA livery, so I came up with this design, taking inspiration from some of Lufthansa's other concept liveries on google, and then easyJet for the yellow stripe. As this model was already in a bad shape, the painting didn't turn out as well as I would have liked, but this kit is a nice addition to my collection. I used Revell Aqua Color paints for this model, I used Night Blue, (36154), and Revell Lufthansa Yellow (36310) to make my livery, and then using the provided decals to complete the build. I then finished up by putting two coats of Revell Clear Gloss (36101) to seal in the decals and give the model a nice shiny finish. Overall I'm pleased with how I was able to salvage this model and stop it from just ending up in the bin, while putting my own style to the current iconic Lufthansa livery. Please let my know your opinions on this livery, Thanks, Daniel.

OK it seems that the most important collecting pieces and getting ready for assembly work is complete so in the next few days I will begin closing up and some decalising too. The dark earth coat is good enough for me and the seats and rear doors are ready to go in the proper places. And inside the rear doors some of the basic structure has been added, a rare departure for me 'cos I usually just leave inside them bare. Yes the Hataka paint will be easily removed with a pointy stick from the runaway pieces and the substructure of the doors will be appended after the exterior colour is finalised. I'll be happy enough with that Adieu

Last night after finishing work I got on with a little oil work in an attempt to make her look a little grubby. Once that had settled overnight I dirtied up the tyres a bit and the started the task of fitting most to the sticky out bits. I'm really glad to get those aerials out of the way as they were a nightmare to fit and, of course, one went ping. The unsettling bit was there was no sound of it hitting the floor. 30 minutes later after checking clothes, footwear, workspace and finally the floor I did manage to find it. The cowling are a dry fit to get the masking for them in the right place. I'll get some colour on them tonight and give the exhausts some burnt metal and jet exhaust to match the collector rings. More later? Thanks for looking, Cheers, Alistair

Another piece from my archive, a model of the Soviet T-24 medium tank. Built from a HobbyBoss kit. A simple and hassle-free kit.

Hi folks, built for a friend who admires a lot Gabresky.Just tried to reproduce as much as photos permit the intricate camo...excuse me for any mistakes. Hope you like it. All the best, Marcus

They a good finish starts with good prep Ali. Thanks @GREG DESTEC, @Hamden, @Johnson, @Ventora3300, @elger, @Farmerboy, @cobraleader, @KevinK, and @mark.au. Well paint on, XF 21 Sky, the closest I could get. Just leaving that to dry for now. I also blended in the bump on top (no pic yet). Stay calm Simon.

Thank you Giorgio and Terry, it's so interesting how the light can change the appearance of the scheme. I was hoping for a little more variation, but was afraid to overdo it. I'm glad that I have a second on the go so I can give the Giemme MethodTM a try! Thanks Adrian, I'm pretty sure the checks were Barracuda Cals, so they probably behaved better than the Academy ones you wrestled with. For the next P-47, I planning on using the checks included in the Tamiya bubbletop boxing - fingers crossed! Thank you Dave! I've been practicing and experimenting with metal finishes for a while now and it's great fun - the checks were just luck and a bunch of Mr. Mark Softer/Setter! Metal technique comparison; Mirage III is buffed Model Master metalizer, and the P-47 from this thread is Vallejo Metal Color with AK True Metal buffed on top: The Tamiya bubbletop is coming together I attempted to have the tail and trim tab 'wag' because I saw it in a reference pic somewhere along the way

Revell 1/72 P-47D "Balls Out"

Gidday, during my final year of High School (1974) I scratch built from balsa a large model of USS North Carolina. I think I might have mentioned it in your build thread of the ship. I'd love to visit the real ship but I think that will never happen. Oh well . . . I've been on board one of the Iowa class battleships, USS New Jersey I think, when it anchored in Gage Rds, off Fremantle in West Oz back in the 1980's I think. It was very impressive. As for me at my end, not much has changed, still retired, still fighting bushfires, got called out to one just after midnight last night this morning. A possum decided to straddle two power-lines at the same time - it got cooked and the power short started a fire. Back to HMS Culloden, I've started sheathing the gap. This first sheath layer are strips cut from a sheet of 0.4mm polystyrene. The first two were 8mm wide, the centre strip in 9mm wide. As you can see I've glued the strips across the ship's base first and when the glue has set I fold up (the hull is inverted for the photo) the sides and glue them too. What makes this method a little awkward is that the kit plastic thickness isn't consistent. I found that when I used this method to lengthen my model of the destroyer HMS Hardy also. The base plastic is much thicker than the sides, the stbd side particularly so. Oh well, I'll just pack in more styrene sheets and strips there. I've also been working on the turrets. The kit comes with various range-finders for some of the turrets, some external with slots in the back of the turrets to mount them. I probably won't use the additional turret fittings. I've added 4.8mm tube to the turret trunk and filled the slots at the rear of those turrets needing it with 1mm square section styrene. I've also drilled out and slotted the barbettes. I still have to fit keyways to front of the turret trunks, although one has the keyway already. This turret is the spare from the previous build and I actually used this to trial this idea in the first place, when I built my whiff version of HMS Benbow. The added turret (P turret) is a super-firing turret so the barbette I'll have to make is more than just a disc of polystyrene. It needs to be nearly 6.5mm high. To make it I've used a bit of 12.5mm (1/2 inch) dowel and wrapped some 0.5x4.8mm styrene strip around it. At this point only about 8-10mm of the first 'overlap' is glued but I wrapped the strip around further to help with alignment. For a job like this I've found that wrapping a thin strip around the former a number of times is preferable to wrapping a thicker strip fewer times. The thin styrene strip wraps more easily without having to warm it up, and the 'step' at the point of commencing the second revolution is not as pronounced. Further revolutions of the styrene strip were then glued. Before doing this I removed the dowel former, applied the glue and wrapped further. Then I pushed the barbette ring down onto the mat to make sure it would sit flat when complete and applied the small peg as shown. At the point you see above the barbette is the required diameter. If not then keep wrapping turns until it is. Another advantage of using thinner strip is that the increased diameter increments are smaller, easier to get the diameter correct. Once the glue had set I glued the whole thing down to a 1.5mm thick sheet of styrene, followed by trimming and sanding. The barbette is inverted in this photo. The centre hole is drilled but still needs slotting for the turret trunk key. The barbette can be used as it is now but I might glue in a short length of 9.5mm styrene tube inside it to help positioning and attaching to the hull deck later. I think I've filled the slots in the rear of three of the turrets OK. That's them standing on their faces with their bums err rears stuck in the air. And still a bit more cladding added to the middle extension. This job would have been easier with two hulls, but I was lucky my son was able to get this one. I'll make it work. The next task I think will be lengthening the deck amidships, between the second funnel and Q turret. So that's it for now. Thank you for your interest. Stay safe and keep on modeling. Regards to all, Jeff.

Howdy Everyone, Just finished the latest addition to my CBI theme and thought you wouldn`t mind seeing a few photo`s My attempt at a Royal Navy FM-2 Wildcat Built from Eduard`s new 1/48 kit Built 99% from the box contents Only additions being: ignition harness and brake pipes from bits of wire... ....and the decals which came from Techmod Set 48052 `Grumman Wildcat Mk VI` First time I`ve used this brand and they worked beautifully. Kept the weathering light, as apparently, they didn`t actually see any action as the war was over before they got there. Hope you enjoy the pic`s, thanks for looking Cheers Russ

The smallest one my local DIY store does is 2m x 3m. That should hide issues from about four years' worth of builds Meanwhile, I seem to be having a sprint on the Academy: I'll get a coat or two of Olive Drab on and call it a night.

Hello everyone, this is my new BTR-80 model from Trumpeter. The model has a very good fit of details, I was even a little impressed, the detailing is also very good. To paint the Ukrainian pixel, I cut out masks from masking tape myself, for painting I used the following colors from Tamiya xf-67 nato green, xf-68 nato brown, xf-69 nato black, xf-88 dark yellow 2, I also added a few drops xf-60 in each color to simulate burnt paint.

Hi all This is my entry for the informal GB with Roger @Dunny, who persuaded me to join this. So far it is just the two of us but feel free to join in with a build too. I will be using the lovely Airfix 1/72 RF.X, which I am already using in another build as an FAA Mk.II on my FAA builds thread. I have had to purchase another one fir this build (I also have TF.10 in the stash to build as a TT). The kit I won't bother with a sprue shot as Roger has added one to his thread I will be using this lovely PE set from Eduard, I have used the same set in my FAA build and it makes for a convincing cockpit. I am going to have a go at NE832 PL-Q of 144 RAAF squadron, as illustrated here , which is on part of the wonderful Aviaeology decal sheet. I hope Terry at Aviaeology doesn't mind me posting this image, it will be removed if he wishes. I could not find any images of this aircraft only a sister machine following a crash landing. I like the various shades of paint following use and overpainted Stripes etc. I also could not locate the Decal sheet as it's out of stock with Aviaeology and everywhere else I looked so I have some correct sized letters out of one of the sets in my decal collection so will use those and paint them black. I will wait for the Green light from Roger as GB coordinator 😉and will be off the blocks. Link to Roger's thread , his last image in the initial post shows NE832 in the backround. Thanks for looking Chris

Mojo has gone AWOL at the moment, due to a number of factors in my life that I won't bore you with. But it does mean that although I will still be working on the Tiran 5 when I can summon the enthusiasm for model building, it's slowing down. Basically, all that gets me motivated at the moment is to sit and do work on the laptop, and that said, I'm going to redo an old WIP which although there, is bereft of photos, due to the fiasco with Village Photos. Veterans of BM will probably be familiar with this build, so apologies to them for the repetition. The original build took place back in 2013, prior to me joining BM. I am managing to retrieve the lost photos, so I will be adding them into the slots where they're supposed to be, plus I'll correct some of the mistakes that I made in the original thread. Due to the fact that the build is complete, as is most of the thread, the updates will come fairly frequently. Rather than just edit the original thread, I'm going to start a new topic, using the text from the original. So without further ado, this is how I built a 1/48th scale Centaur. I had built a couple of Cromwells in 1/48th scale, so when it came to doing a Centaur, I wanted it to look a bit different and not just another Cromwell with perforated tyres, so I decided upon "Seawolf" of the RMASG. Seawolf was one of the early Centaurs with either a B or a C type hull so there would be no need to alter the engine deck hatches. But it would necessitate new front and rear track guards and sand shields. The first job was to make a new armoured front hull plate. There's nothing wrong with the one in the kit apart from the fact that the drivers visor is moulded shut and I wanted mine to be open. To do this meant cutting out the visor and it's hinges from the hull which obviously trashed the kits hull plate. The new one was made from 40thou card. A hole was cut into the right side for the visor and a round blanking plate glued in place on the left side where the BESA gunners position is on a Cromwell (not used on RM Centaurs). Before I glued the plate in place, I added some bolt heads to the blanking plate, filed notches on the top in front of where the periscopes would be and glued the visor hinges in place. In the Hauler etched set for the Cromwell, they include a couple of brackets for the electrical cables to the small side lights. I super glued these in place and ran wiring to the lights using 10amp fuse wire. The left hand light is actually a piece of shaped sprue as the kit part was eaten by the carpet monster! The other part that I glued in place was the latch that holds the crew side hatch open, from the Hauler set. I cut the track guards on a line level with the vertical front hull plate. Some of the plastic was removed from the inner sides and then they were glued back in place only now at a sloping angle. This resulted in a gap which I filled with card and blended in with filler on the left hand side. There was no need on the right as it would be covered by a stowage bin. The new front track guards were made from 10thou card and glued in place. Tamiya supply the crew side hatch as a separate item, but it's moulded in the closed position. So I separated the hatch from the hinges, glued the hinges in place and then reattached the hatch in an open position after first detailing it with a wire handle and some etched brass from the Hauler set. Unfortunately, I don't have any photos of the hatch at this stage, but it can be seen in finished photos. Missing on all of Tamiya's Cromwells and Centaurs in both scales, are the five bolt heads just behind the left side crew hatch. These were made using a Historex hexagonal punch and die set. Eduard supply the mesh to go over the engine air intakes. Incidentally, anyone doing a waterproofed Cromwell or Centaur should leave these off as on the real thing they were blanked off. I've seen a couple of photos of Centaurs with rear track guards that appeared to have been fabricated from plain sheet metal. Whether or not Sea Wolf had this feature, I couldn't tell, but I thought that I would include it, so I removed all of the mouldings from the kit parts and then glued them in place. Being and early Centaur, it had the original shaped exhaust box, ie; the rear sloped downwards. So I carved the rear portion off. The mesh for the top that comes in both the Hauler and Eduard sets proved to be too narrow after the exhaust box modification, so a new one was made using etched mesh from Accurate Armour. Before fixing it in place, I added two exhausts from the spares box as they would be noticeable by their absence. The mesh was glued in place and then a frame made from 10x20thou strip was glued around the perimeter. In this photo can be seen the two smoke candle holders which again came from the Hauler set. I've run two short lengths of plastic rod from them to represent the electrical cables. Other items from the same set are the two attachment brackets for the Porpoise sled towed by RM Centaurs and the latch on the first aid box. Finally, the two white blobs that can be seen on top of each final drive housing, are the oil filler plugs made from stretched sprue cut offs. Well that' got me through large portion of this build. Another update in a couple of days. Thanks for looking, and for any comments. John.

Ciao ragazzi, this is my last model. I built this for my friend Nicola. The kit represent the airplane of Lt. Cdr. Roger R. Hedrick. Cockpit and part of the engine are from Aires. Soon a small diorama. See you soon Paolo

After the tip from @Ken-l i started with some research on Moritz. As he pointed out. The 2 Sturers were a bit different, mainly the way some tools and stowage were added. First i started scratchbuilding the holder for 2 20 liter jerrycans that go on the left fender. Photo's also showed added stowage boxes welded or bolted on the right fender under the antenna mount. I found 1 box in the sparesbox so i have to do some more scratchbuilding. But there was a problem. Moritz carried spare roadweels on the front where the second driver cazemate was. The box didn't have spare roadweels. So i decided to butcher an old Tiger model ( the one i used to learn to apply zimmerit ) The weels were to big so i cut off the outer rim, sanded them and then used AK paintstripper to remove all the paint. As you can see they are almost the same Now i have 3 spare weels that can go on the model. A loosely added tarp will hide most of the differences. That's it so far. Cheers guys 👍👍👍

Glad that I am not the only one then. Thanks @Johnson, @giemme, @Thom216, and @Alex Gordon. Iff lights masked some 2,5 mm discs punched out. Wing tip lights were sanded and then plastered with filler. Not the best of pics sorry. Anyhow let that set and then sand/polish etc. Stay calm. Simon.

New AMP boxing/variant - ref. 72-01 LIM - English Electric Canberra T.4 - limited edition Source: https://www.facebook.com/mikro.mir.dnepr/posts/pfbid02xAUAeVPMj8v5kH9MDpwoKyV6HXm7ivwsVAXgeA4t3akvwUk8nmNy655EsuooDyGdl Available here: µ https://modelsua.com/english-electric-canberra-t-4-1-72-amp-7201lim https://plastic-models-store.com/amp-72-01lim-1-72-english-electric-canberra-t-4-limited-edition-plastic-model-kit-amp72-01lim https://www.aviationmegastore.com/en/modelling/english-electric-canberra-t-4-amp-models-amp72-01lim-199877.html V.P.

Good afternoon, dear modelers. I present to you my next model from Tamiya.

Well, not so much, but a bit improved today… Thanks Johnny …and away again, and then back. Thanks Ian. A bit of mojo following some thoughts over the past few days. Spray the prop then leave the spare paint in, add grey primer, pre-shading? Needs more practice.

The 25lb rocket head was not a "shaped charge" weapon. It was made from hardened steel with no explosive filler designed simply to punch through steel plate. Details here. https://www.bulletpicker.com/rocket_-3-inch-aircraft.html Details of the various installations can be found here. It starts with the Mossie. https://www.bulletpicker.com/pdf/AP 2802 Vol 1, Aircraft Rocket Installations, Sighting, and Ammunition.pdf

It would sure make for an epic build! Thanks for the vote of confidence, Erwin! Thanks Alain (for the pics too) Thanks for the info - and the praise! Hey, you two, this time there actually was paint; happy? Before that: Alain kindly supplied some detailed pic of the interiors which, added to the ones I already have, led me to the conclusion that I need to assemble the cockpit before I can add any more piping/wiring. The additional wiring will be done most likely before joining the fuselage halves; anyway, there was some piping to add that I could do beforehand, in the main wheel wells. They first needed some clean up from sink marks: On the left I had already removed them with a chisel, on the right you see - marked with red dots - the amount of marks to be removed. Same kind of job needed on the top part of the inner wings All done, after brushing on some TeT to clean up any styrene residuals To add the relevant piping, I also had to involve the wing inserts used to mount the outer wings: here's a dryfit, the pipes will obviously be tidied up only when the definitive assembly takes place repeat for the other side I used solder and copper wire for the task. I then airbrushed Tamiya Flat Black as primer, followed by YZC (it's actually a mix of Tamiya Flat Yellow and Cockpit Green) I then airbrushed a Future coat; the idea is to then spray the underside camouflage color (white) and scratch it out in places, to reveal the underlying YZC layer. Cockpit green for the bottom window framing Same for the sidewalls, while the area behind the bulkhead and the rear wheel well were airbrushed YZC (flat black as primer again, I think it gives a nice depth to the top coat) Other cockpit bits received their Cockpit Green and/or Flat Black coat All of them also received a protective Future coat. Now I'm ready for detail painting and weathering - next time, though. Meanwhile, all comments welcome Ciao

This is my entry for ths GB. It is a Tornado GR1A that operated from Dhahran AB during Op Granby in 1991. The build thread is here:-

Hello all, carrying the Robin Olds theme on from SCAT II i thought i'd take a shot at SCAT XXVII. I have used Tamiya's F-4 C/D kit as a base. 1/32 Trumpeter P-38L 'Scat II' - Ready for Inspection - Aircraft - Britmodeller.com What i believe Tamiya did was base this kit on the aircraft at the National museum, but this had a few issues in the paint work, but i think i have managed to cover most of the issue off. One of the biggest issues with the original and museum versions is the size of the stars, they seem to be a 1/3 too big, so i corrected those. I use the Master AoA sensors to add the probe just behind the nose Radome. I took an attempt at the rippled look metal's behind the afterburner cans with i couple of masks, and i was pretty pleased with the effect in the end. Most of the decals were replaced using my mask set, DEF Models weighted wheels, Quickboost seats and Red Fox Studios set. extra's used to build this it are: Thanks for looking, all question and critique are welcome

Hello, this is my first post in the "work in progress" forum section. This model will be a great activity for me for the winter months, I'm glad I bought it. I like that the box is compact. The quality of the model seems to be first-class, though I dislike the instruction manual which is just basic black&white. I am planning to do it semi-open and in "wooden" style, with the Wood Grain Decal Set. Here are all the pictures: Google album Update pictures:

Hello everyone again. Mustang P-51B, pilot - Donald Beerbower What has been improved in the Academy set: Firstly, these are the landing gear bays. All manufacturers offer them in the wrong shape, because... plastic does not allow them to be cast in the required volume. The niches were completely cut out and built from scratch. The machine gun ports have been redesigned, arranged in a cascade and equipped with barrels made of syringe needles and metal tubes. The rear support was dismembered and also completely rebuilt using metal components. The rear support niche is also somewhat filled with parts. Oil and cooling radiators were made and filled with radiator niche parts. The main landing gear struts were also modified on our own - the shock absorber rods were replaced, and the two-link links were cut out. The cockpit was partially redone on our own, complemented by etching from Eduard. Mounted landing light, manufacturer - Elf, Navigation lights - pins made of drawn transparent sprue, painted with a mixture of futura and acrylic. Other additions include True Detail wheels, QuickBoost exhaust tips, and a Squadron vacuum canopy. The main identification marks are decals from KitsWorld, technical inscriptions are from Techmod. *Sorry for the automatic translation and thanks for watching.

Well that's definitely going to happen. With those pesky and depressing oars out of the way I got down to business today and finished making all of the remaining accessories. From top left, there's an anchor, because sometimes they hunted whales close inshore. The bucket has received its handle. And if you find yourself tied to an angry whale and decide to leave, there's a hatchet for cutting the line. There are two harpoons, ready to be bent (knotted) onto the line. The chisel shaped thing is a spade, used for cutting holes in the flukes of a dead whale to accept a towline should it be necessary to tow the carcase back to the ship. The boathook is for doing what boathooks do. They have many purposes. And finally there's a marker flag which would be left in the dead whale to establish ownership of the corpse if other ships were operating in the area. Everything has had a coat of sealer applied all over, except where the pegs hold them and I'll do that in an hour or two. And finally the pintles have been attached to the rudder and their gudgeons have been glued to the boat. That leaves only slinging the rudder to the quarter and rigging the harpoon line. The line will circle the large tub about thirty times before wandering to the loggerhead (twice around) and then forward to the sheave in the bow and outboard, looping back over the bow where it divides into two coils on the bow each leading to a harpoon in the ready rack. It might take an hour or so to get that right. Finished by the end of the week, I'd say.

Thanks to @Spookytooth, @viper-30, @ivan-o, @Bullbasket, @edjbartos and @FrancisGL for your kind comments, and to all who hit the like button. OK a small update the basic colour has been applied Not much but a little progress and also a set of AFV workable tracks has mysteriously appeared on the bench so they should add a bit to the finished project even though they are plastic rather than metal. Thanks for stopping by your time is appreciated Stay safe Roger

I assembled the model except for a few details (and the tracks) ... To give more evidence of wear and tear, I lightened the colour of the wood, as suggested by @Model Mate and @robw_uk by Rodolfo Masti, on Flickr by Rodolfo Masti, on Flickr by Rodolfo Masti, on Flickr by Rodolfo Masti, on Flickr by Rodolfo Masti, on Flickr by Rodolfo Masti, on Flickr by Rodolfo Masti, on Flickr

Hehe, yeah: I obtained a suitable cutting mat with enlarged squares just for taking photos 😆 And here is the finished model, second one done! (well, this was really a small effort...)

Sorry for the lack of updates but I have finished. I am still not a fan of all the red (the canopy is OTT to me) but it looks like a jug. The blue on stars seems too light and the decals did NOT like Microsol so there are a few creases which is somewhat annoying. Self made issues aside, the kit went together well and I thoroughly enjoyed building it, making a nice diversion from trying to clear the shelf of doom. Dave

I finally got my bum into gear and dealt with the filler on the seams yesterday, which meant I could start moving things on apace. All of the glazing is now in aside from the turrets, the tailplanes and fin are on, and I’ve attached the rudder slightly offset to port for a bit of interest: The main landing gear has been attached and the fronts of the nacelles built up: Both the tips of the underside wing panels were short shot, I’ve managed to build one up with filler but the other needed a bit of plasticard glued in, which I still have to shape: The insides of the cowlings have been painted in aluminium, along with the leading edges of them and the engines: Finally, I’ve removed the guns from the turret inner frames and assembled the frames. If you look closely you’ll see there’s still a section of breach on the inside of each panel, but that would be a swine to remove without damaging the frame and will probably be invisible when the turret is closed up and painted. At least, that’s what I’m hoping! Now I’m back on this, I’m hoping to keep the momentum up so this makes it across the line by the extended deadline. Fingers crossed James

Some more components ready, floor this time. A few comments: -Stick: those two cables are seldom remaining on restored a/c, but I found a wartime pic in the Wingleader, where these are prominent. -Floor: I added the two floorboards from the Aires set. They are not better detailed per se, but they are separate now, which gives more dimension to the parts itself. -Pedals: one thing that I find interesting is the delicate adjustment star. It would be impossible to scratch but can be found on some earlier Eduard sets. I believe it will be visible down there. I'm getting closer to adding some silver paint soon, should be interesting! To be continued,

Thank you Craig. I attached the canopy last night and primed it this morning. The usual suspects (gaps) were revealed and will be filled in when I return from the mainland on Wednesday. Also, my research has concluded that these were used strictly for training, so I will skip the rocket pods, even though they would look cool. I have yet to find a photo online or from a BM member that shows any armament. And, I have yet t see any with any significant weathering. So this will be a clean aircraft. 😁 --John

Brequet 19, any scale.