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Hello everyone! I would like to show you my latest build - the Tempest Mk.V, lovely Profipack kit #82122 from Eduard in 1/48 scale. It was a pleasant build, however there were some small traps that had to be identified and avoided during assembly. My model represents a machine with serial number NV994, flown by french ace Pierre Clostermann. His Tempests were coded "JF-E," and he flew this particular plane between April 15 and July 1, 1945. On that day, the aircraft was damaged in an accident while landing in bad weather conditions at Vaerlöse airfield, unable to land at the base in Kastrup after a demonstration held for the Danes. NV994 was then sent back to the Hawker factory for repairs. (SOURCE) Photos: And some additional shots from the workbench: Regards, Jan24 points
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Hi Everyone, I have a fondness for experimental and what-if aircraft. One of my favourites in this regard is the Suhkoi Su-47 Berkut so it was with pleasure to find the old Italieri kit in 1/72 scale at my local hobby shop. What the kit lacks in fuel tanks and armaments is offset by its sheer size. With the forward swept wings, long fuselage and twin vertical stabilizers it is quite a sight and a needed break from the norm. While not the best the kit in the world the build was a lot of fun. A few of the joins were odd but to Italieri’s credit it went together well. What was less appealing is the dull drab wrap around black scheme of the prototype. I opted for something different. I must admit my paint scheme was inspired by other modelers and the splinter schemes I have seen on Russian Su-35 and Su-37 aircraft. Now if I can just get my hands on a Boeing X-32…… Photos attached. I hope you like the results. All comments and suggestions are welcome. Kindest Regards, Tomcat10119 points
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Hello, may I present my latest completions: a simultaneously built pair of Horten Ho/Go 229s. Being a favourite type of mine, I bought the Academy reboxing of the well-known Revell kit as soon as it was released - one of the few silver linings of modelling in Korea is that Academy kits are ridiculously cheap and widely available a month or two before they arrive in the UK. Given that its the exact same plastic in the box, and already having two Revell boxings in the stash you could pretty much call this a Revell version build but for the '8' decals and use of the generously included - and nice quality - Academy masks (very similar to Wolfpack's). I built the grey craft as a recreation of one the first kits I built when I was starting out, of course now being with vastly improved skills. The other was going to be a two tone late war green scheme until I made a mess of trying to fix some inconsistent paint after spraying the camo resulting in a further 2 incorrect shades - in the end I resorted to a light sanding and respray in one overall green, with tail band and spare decals to create a fictional JG7 scheme. Vallejo paints used were RLM 74/75/76 Vallejo Model Air (grey) and Model Color 892 Yellow Olive + Model Air 'RLM 84'. A slight modification was in using brass tube in place of the kit guns for a bit of variation, which I'm happy with. For those curious about the Academy boxing: the decals ('designed by crossdelta') are usable, they remind me of the old Academy decals, with the caveat that they actually stick, but can be a bit underwhelming with there thinness and resulting lack of vibrancy. More disappointingly the decals also have a alignment issue evident on the Japanese markings (see end picture), that I feel I'd have to source alternatively to build in the future. As mentioned same plastic as Revell, and a great canopy mask (+wheels) - well worth it for a decent price (just under £10 here). Thanks for looking, happy to answer any questions. Happy modelling! Closeup of the slightly wonky decals - the rest of the sheet is well usable despite suffering from the same problem, and provides a generous amount of various Luftwaffe markings sure to be useful in the future.19 points
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Hi All, Completed this for the 'Go Large' GB so as always, thought I'd post in the RFI Cheers Nigel18 points
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Take a good look for the final time; this interior is now complete; Airfix have repeated the design approach they used for their excellent Lynx, namely an internal ‘shell’; The inner wall of this is the interior you see, and the fuselage parts fit around it, giving excellent rigidity (& opportunities for detailing, but not in this build!). Here are the rear seats as seen from the cargo door: And here with the fuselage closed up: More soon Crisp15 points
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I would like to present another completed project of the PZL.46 "Sum" in 1:48 scale, which represents the only prototype of this machine, which took part in the defensive war of 1939. The colouring of the chequerwings is presumed, as there is no photo to prove it. Their appearance on the model is only due to the description of the capture of the Polish machine by Lithuanian pilots. 3D printed model, my first and certainly not the last, the construction was quick and efficient, the parts fitted very well and that's it for the plus. Now the downsides, I missed the bombs in the open bomb bay, a little empty in the crew cabin but I know the lack of documents for that. All in all, it's a very nice and enjoyable model and with a bit of willpower you can make a real gem out of it. And in the pictures below you can see how the PZL.46 "Sum" presents itself in all its glory.14 points
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Evening folks, With the summer holidays here, there's been some welcome additional modelling time and this was finished off over the weekend. I was given this by my dad who had in turn been given it by an old family friend - I think it is an original issue, and if not it's a very early issue of this classic kit from Airfix: I just wanted to build this more or less as it comes and enjoy it. However, I couldn't let the gaping hollow wheel bays pass so made some simple mods by adding plastic card sidewalls and some Evergreen stiffeners to at least make them sort of passable: Other than that, I used some Eduard belts for the pilot's seat, Barracuda wheels as the kit's had dried out and cracked when I tried to apply them to the hubs, and some aftermarket decals from Techmod to represent Von Werra's machine who crash-landed not far from me in Marden, Kent - and became 'the one that got away'. Although old and basic by modern standards, this kit is a joy and went together pretty well. Surface detail is sublime and the super-detailer could really have a field day if they were so inclined. I really enjoyed it as nostalgic build from days gone by and that's what it's all about! Evolution: here is the 109E alongside the G-model: like the Spitfire the basic airframe had huge potential to evolve and did so as the war progressed: Paints were all Xtracolor enamels with some weathering using Mig-Ammo pastels. A really enjoyable build - don't overlook these oldies as they scrub up really well! All the best, Tom13 points
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Welcome all! This is my 1/72 Airfix Hawker Tempest Mk V which I finished earlier in the year. It's a really nice kit , goes together with no hassle at all. My modifications were to thin the trailing edges, add foil belts, fix wing tip and tail lights, rivet all over, make a better aerial from stretched sprue and use a set of resin wheels. Paints are airbrushed with a mix of Tamiya and Mr Color and I finished off by weathering with oils and ground up pastel dust. WIP is here: I hope you like the pics!12 points
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Well we couldn't have a desert colours GB without a P-40 from 112 Sqn and their famous shark mouth markings could we! I mentioned in the chat pages that I am going to build three P-40's of various marks and I asked for opinions in which schemes to finish them, either all 112 Sqn or one from 112, one USAAF and one French, the multi-national theme won. The one kit and marking choice that was a constant was this one, the Airfix 1/48 P-40B finished as a Tomahawk IIb. The individual airframe has yet to be decided as I have options from Xtradecal and Sky Models sheets. The obligatory kit and contents shots; Rather nice box art from Airfix I must say, and the kit looks to be nicely detailed with recessed and raised details where appropriate, pity they couldn't manage that on their new Sea King but thats another story. I'm a bit of a fan of the P-40 and have got "a few" references for them over the years, here's a small section that I will be using for my builds; I shall be getting the other builds up separately. With Eduard having announced that they are doing the P-40 family (Yay!! ) now seemed a very good time to work my way through my current stash of older kits. Really looking forward to getting started on this and the other kits, as well as everyone else's builds in the GB. Thanks for looking in and as usual all comments and criticisms are gratefully received. Craig. 🇺🇦11 points
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Surprise birthday present for a mate's 60th. He's a Dragons fan (the red & white players), I'm a Sharks fan (light blue), so this should wind him up sufficiently on the big day 😁11 points
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My Finished B-24J It's the HobbyBoss Model which I have to say was amazingly engineered & delight to build. The parts fit is very accurate. Made a few mods - Brass .50 MGs all round. Resin Tyres Takes a lot of nose weight to keep it from being a Tail-Sitter. Biggest mod is that i made the wing removable of the Main Spar - Using neodymium Magnets - Just need to remove the indents for the hex nuts which i could never work out if they intended the wings to be a bolt fixing but their engineering stopped short. So the Neodymium magnets were inserted into the internal main wing slots to line up with the spars to get a tight fit to the fuselage. Tried my best to hide the usual suspects - Front Turret seems. Really these Are the only shortcomings from the whole model. Apart from the rubber tyres, easy fix to replace with Resin versions. The Undercarriage legs are strong enough to hold the heavy B-24 even with the modest 200g nose weight.11 points
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Hi Rob, very kind words indeed. - Andy Well there's still plenty to do before she's tearing up the dunes, however I'm now a a mock up stage and who can resist a good mock up 😃10 points
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Thanks Troy, easy to correct at this stage. Good one to be picked up on early. Soon stripped off the paint. As the paint is a lacquer, this was quickly and cleanly done with ethanol. Ready for re-masking. This also gave me an excuse to improve the windscreen join. I had previously fixed the windscreen and was not totally happy with it and removed it and reapplied it before it had set. This gave me a rough bottom at the glue joint where the plastic had dissolved. Why? Because I fix nearly all clear parts with Tamiya Extra Thin. My plan was then to inspect the join after a coat of undercoat and decide whether it needed improvement. Seeing I had to strip the paint I thought now was as good a time as any to fix it. I used my usual, a pin head mix of Milliput fine. Great for these jobs. No plastic attack, adheres well, minimal shrinkage and easy clean up with a toothpick and a moist cotton bud (Q-Tip). No sanding needed. Final result. Looks rougher than it is as your're looking through to the glue joint. I'll let the Milliput set and then polish the windscreen with Tamiya "Finish" Polishing Compound to remove any residual paint and get this ready for masking. Neat. Ray10 points
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Hello everyone, I wanted to make a little break from my "build all WW2 vehicles in North Africa" mission and I wanted something completely different. I chose King Tiger because I never build one. And I chose Battle of the Bulge because it's a different period and different theatre. The model I built should represent Tiger II "332" of 501st Schwere Panzer Abteilung, part of the infamous Kampfgruppe Peiper. It was completed on 11/9/44 with chassis number Fgst 280043. It was originally issued to Wehrmacht s.Pz.Abt.509, and then passed on to s.SS-Pz.Abt.501 in early December 1944. It was captured in the Ardennes on 26/12/1944 and there are several different accounts of its capture, but most agree about the following: It was captured by a 3rd Platoon of D Company of the 740th Tank Battalion when a leading Sherman commanded by Sgt. Glenn D. George, while patrolling on the road near La Gleize noticed a single King Tiger. They stopped and waited but the tank was silent. They fired a star shell, and to their surprise, the crew, probably sleeping at the time, quickly bailed out to the nearby forest. Now there are different accounts, some of them claiming that tanks were taken by US crew and driven along the road until they ran out of fuel, others claiming it was left there until morning. Anyway, it was recovered the next day by the 463rd Ordnance Evacuation Company with their M 19 tractor-trailer combination, nicknamed 'Tank Taxi', which is the combination of M20 Prime Mover (Diamond T 981) and M9 45-ton Trailer. Accompanying it were two T5 (M32) ARVs and an M1A1 Heavy Wrecker. The tank was then moved to the Stavelot Railway Station in Belgium where it was loaded on the captured railcar, and moved to Antwerp, from where it was shipped to the US and transferred to US Army Ordnance proving grounds at Aberdeen. While at Aberdeen, the vehicle was extensively tested until the mid-1950s and then moved to the Ordnance Museum. It was exhibited there until the 1990s when it was moved to Patton Museum, and after that, in 2011, to the National Armor and Cavalry Museum workshops in Fort Benning, where it is now, but not in public display. The model should represent a vehicle as it looked after being captured (hence the white markings added by the 463rd Ordnance Evacuation Company). The model is based on the Revell kit, which is not bad, but the detailing is quite weak, so a lot of AM extras were used. For details, you can check the WIP thread here. Painted with a combination of MRP, Hataka, and Vallejo paints. There's no definitive conclusion about how it was painted, except that it was factory painted in 3-tone camouflage. Looking at the photos, I decided to go with the soft-edge camo. And some detailed shots here. There are many photos of the real tank, so a lot of reference material. Here are some of these. Thanks for watching, for following my WIP thread, and thanks for your comments. Cheers, Nenad9 points
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My latest project will be to build this 3D printed kit which has been designed and produced by Peter Harvey of PH Designs. My intention is to build the model as a representation of a vehicle I used in the mid-1970s, whilst deployed with a Forward Air Control (FAC) team in Norway. First off, I've needed to make a test print of the body, to check that I have the supports in the right place and that everything printed correctly. With the supports removed and sprayed with grey primer, this view shows up the detail nicely. Looking much better with a coat of green. I shall check this test print for any areas that need fine-tuning and do any adjustments as necessary before I make another print for the actual build. There are over 50 parts to this kit, some only 2.5mm in size, so this will not be a quick build. I hope that I can make a good model from the beautifully designed components. Further details about the kit and information of availabilty can be obtained from Peter at PH Designs cheers, Mike9 points
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My build of the Airfix 1/144 Boeing Clipper (04172) It was built OOB although I removed the rivets and scratch-built a stand for it. The upper fuselage observation windows "blob" missing from the kit so I had to scratch that too. Decals were excellent and went on very well. It hasn't been the happiest of builds mainly due to my suffering extreme pain in my joints which is having an adverse on my ability to model right now. The photos have revealed lots of blemishes (don't they always) but to be honest I am just glad to have got it finished. Dave9 points
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Expected in late October in China, Hobby Boss is to release a 1/48th Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-29K Izdeliye 9.41 " Fulcrum-D" kit - ref. 81786 Source: http://www.hobbyboss.com/index.php?g=home&m=article&a=show&id=238 Box art At the All Japan Hobby Show 2023 Source: https://hobby.dengeki.com/event/2089974/ Source: https://www.facebook.com/gustav.jung.7/posts/pfbid02EXMhH4KzXBy114doAH9LkGqLL3vAE4BVcGT6FkWacTsFcK57HExvQxmZYpGYihnal V.P.9 points
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I bought this on a whim the other day because it was what passes for cheap these days on eBay: Small PE fret, film instrument panel, injected canopy, simple scheme. The kit is distributed by MPM and feels very like an MPM kit. Regards, Adrian9 points
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The three engine Boeing 727 was developed on the basis of the Boeing 707 for shorter distance routes and smaller airports with shorter runways. The first 727-100 rolled out in November,1962 and the plane entered into commercial service with Eastern airlines in February, 1964. In total, 1.832 planes were produced between 1962 and 1984 and they were operated by dozens of US and international airlines. The Spanish flag carrier, Iberia operated twenty-four Boeing 727-256's for almost thirty years. This iconic three holer has always been one of my favourite vintage airliners. A couple of years ago I had bought the 1/144 scale Airfix reboxing with Iberia's smart looking decals but for some funny reason I had forgot the kit in my stash. Well. I recently decided to build the kit which turned out to be really old. Some colleagues claim the kit has its origins in the 1960's. On the other hand the inner side of the lower wing part in my kit carries the molding "1982" Building the model started with filling in the cabin window holes and sanding down the clear cockpit part. All in all the assembly was a combination of sanding and puttying the rather rugged kit parts and of the adding from my spares' box all the possible extra details and decals to the plane. For instance, the cockpit and cabin windows are from Authentic Airlines, the stencils are from Nazca decals and the pitot tubes and antennas from an unknown photoetch fret. I painted the all white fuselage and stabs with Tamiya Fine Surface primer which I then covered with Tamiya's gloss clear TS-13. The wings were primed with light grey Mr. Surfacer 1000. I airbrushed the leading edges with Ammo's aluminium laquer and the coroguard areas in the wings with Revell's dark grey enamel, number 77. For the minor details I also used Vallejo's Model Air acrylics.9 points
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1:350 Klingon K't'inga Class Battle Cruiser I.K.S Amar As seen in Star Trek The Motion Picture This is the POL950 Model complete with the add on Lighting kit. Polar Lights did a really good job with this kit as i believe the planning team created this with advice & direction from the 1/350 Resin Studio model Creator over in the US. Fit is really good for something so large 60cm in length. Looking forward to Polar Lights's later release POL997 'Kronos One' LIGHTS ON: LIGHTS OFF: Back ON:9 points
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Hi All, My latest completion is Special Hobby's Digby. Perhaps better known as the B18 Bolo in US service, a single squadron of these aircraft were delivered to the RCAF in 1940. The type was used by 10 (Bomber Reconnaissance) Squadron in the maritime patrol role, and were in service until 1943 when they were replaced by the B24, with a consequent increase in range and payload. The type was well-liked by its crews and was reliable and sturdy - during service the squadron gained the nickname 'North Atlantic Squadron'. The squadron had a number of bases during the Digby's service, but were primarily based at Gander, Newfoundland. I've chosen to complete as PB*X 747, which on 30th October 1942 was responsible for the sinking of U520. Here's a photo showing 747 in the background (photo for discussion only - will be removed on request): Here's the WIP if anybody is interested: Anyway, on with the photos: Here's a final shot with another unusual RCAF aircraft: I've enjoyed learning more about this unusual aircraft. My learning was greatly assisted by @Carl V, who was most generous with information on the Digby (thanks again Carl!) Thanks also to all those who have added kind words and encouragement along the way - it has been much appreciated! Thanks for looking, Roger9 points
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Finished the Polar Lights NCC 1701 Built this in 2020 just before my 1/1500 Star Destroyer build. Has full LED lighting - with Sequenced Strobes and Nav Lights. Built the base with 3 Switches, so Lights could be selected. Warp Drive, Photon Torpedoes, Nav/Strobe etc. Took a lot of wiring and soldering that's for sure. All ran on a plug in mains 240V 2A PSU - Used aluminium hollow tube for the stand and wiring. The Hanger deck is fully lit, just cant seem to find any pictures of it the hanger deck at the moment8 points
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Morning all, Latest off the bench is Italeri's lovely new AMX. I've wanted one of these in 1/72 for as long as I can remember, and this kit was well worth the wait, with good details and largely excellent fit throughout. Finished completely OOB using the excellent decals; MRP was the paint of choice for the Italian Grey with Mr Color and Tamiya lacquers for the details. Italeri 1/72 AMX A-11A Ghibli by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Italeri 1/72 AMX A-11A Ghibli by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Italeri 1/72 AMX A-11A Ghibli by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Italeri 1/72 AMX A-11A Ghibli by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Italeri 1/72 AMX A-11A Ghibli by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Thanks for looking, comments welcomed as always Shaun8 points
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Hello Friends. I present a freshly assembled F-111A model. Model made straight from the box.8 points
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Howdy all, Celebrated the nice weather by taking some pic`s of the latest addition to my Vietnam collection My attempt at Kinetic`s 1/48 Prowler kit Finished as an aircraft aboard the USS Enterprise that covered the evacuation of Saigon in `75 As usual mostly OOB though I did prise the wallet open and invest in an Eduard etched set for the seats In addition I added a few embellishments including: brake pipes from bits of wire and some rear view mirrors from foil, also some details for the internal canopy frames from plastic sheet and wire , a lot of filler, swearing and gnashing of teeth ( especially whilst doing the canopies ) Had a go at tinting the canopies with Future/Klear and orange food colouring Decals came from a Superscale set, the kit and the stash Hope you enjoy, thanks for looking Cheers Russ8 points
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Some of you will remember the job I had with the mistercraft 1/48 Sopwith Camel. I can't go on forever blaming the kits. A bad workman, etc. so I approached the Albatros with a positive mind set. But, the faults in the Camel - from the Merit kit moulds of 1957 - gave me ample warning that there might be faults in the Albatros. And oooh, yes - there are faults. Perhaps understandable for a kit from 1956. At least, the moulds were. Let's get straight to the faults. The decal schemes for the kit are all essentially for planes flying in 1917, 1918, and 1919. The kit however has two radiators on the top of the upper wing. Significance? The additional radiator was fitted to planes flying, I am pretty sure, after the war in Palestine. I think this means the kit has the wrong shape top wing for 5 of the 7 schemes. I wasn't going to worry about that, though; I know there are modellers here who would have cut the radiators off and scratch built a proper radiator in the centre of the wing. Not me, I spent far too long on this kit as it is. Sorry if it offends but there it is. This meant I could use the scheme provided for an Albatros captured by the British. It might be wrong, but honestly - it could be right. The scheme I used was number 3 on the painting instructions. I had to do a lot of fill, sand and paint on the fuselage and where the lower wing attached to the fuselage. Many times did I fill, sand and paint in order to get no seams. Except the wing lower joint stubbornly refused to sit properly even when filled and sanded. A bit more elbow grease might have done the trick, but see the point above that I spent too long on this kit. When you put what are described as guns onto the top of the fuselage in front of the cockpit, the only way they can go means in real life they would shoot the engine up. Here's the thing, though; this went together a lot better than the mistercraft Camel. Despite the time it took, there were very few fit issues. Except for ........... the fit of the undercarriage, which very strangely, uses exactly the same parts as the sopwith camels undercarriage. I can only assume Merit didn't want to spend money on a different undercarriage. This did fit, but only with superglue and holding it until it set.. I had some fun with the upper wing, though. I needed 4 hands, 2 to hold the upper wing in place, one to put a drop of superglue in the holes for the struts and one to wiggle the wing struts into the holes. But honestly, this was a lot easier than the Camel where I think I needed 6 hands!! Painting and varnishing didn't go too badly, well, there was a puzzling moment when varnishing the upper wing with Windsor & Galleria satin varnish, it began to dissolve the brown colour paint (Tamiya acrylic nato brown), but not the Tamiya acrylic sky, or the Tamiya acrylic dark sea grey. A quick wipe with IPA removed the brown coloured varnish, leaving me the job of touching up. Oh, and when I had a look at the kit to see if the undercarriage sat ok, I noticed that the top wing is slightly out of square. How, or why, I have no idea, but after several attempts to straighten it, without success, I just let it go, as ultimately I spent far too long on this. A decision sometimes has to be made and in this case - I thought the kit wasn't going to repay the extra time. Decals. Hmmm, while not as bad as the decals for the Camel, they did actually go on and almost instantly fix themselves. That made life awkward for trying to move them into a better position, but all I can say is thank goodness for Microsol. All the decals I needed did go on in the end, with just a couple of slight nicks and tears that I could paint over to fix. Oh, and the tail fin flash decal is too small. As are the fuselage roundels. Actually too small on the decal sheet. The wood paint (Tamiya wood deck tan) on the fuselage I went over with tamiya clear yellow, to give it a lighter colour than using clear orange. The Spinner colour was a conundrum - along with the wheel hubs and the metal representation around the engine. The painting guide did not specify a colour for that, but it looked grey rather than metallic on the painting guide.. The spinner looked white, but strangely just one one wheel hub - starboard - looked white. The port looked the same colur as the metal on the fuselage. Again, no colour given on the painting guide. I decided that the metal around the engine would be a metallic finish (Tamiya flat aluminium) and I decided to run with that paint for the hubs and spinner. The propeller I masked up and painted in wood colours, with tamiya clear orange to make it look better - I was pleased with the way the masking and the painting turned out. Windsor & Newton burnt umber was my choice for the tyres, based on @Black Knight 's recommendation for later German aircraft. Again, I was pleased with the way I painted the wheel hubs and tyres. Rigging - well, yes I did lose the will to live a few times, but I managed to get a much simplified rigging done. I may have rapidly gone off the idea of actually rigging any more WW1 kits. Overall then, whatever I learnt from doing the Mistercraft Camel seems to have paid off here. Some puzzling anomalies in the kit - too small decals, and some fit issues with the undercarriage and lower single piece wing did test me. Thanks again to my grandson, who took some of these photos for me - and I suspect more by judgement than luck! I was better pleased with this one than the Camel, , but I really must get on with a newer kit that doesn't present so many difficulties. But then I'd lose the fun of solving the challenges - oh, what to do, what to do??8 points
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Lower hull pretty much complete before paint. I've assembled and tacked into place the tow cable since the pics where taken. Still need to spray the interior black along with inside the turret which will be the next job. Haven't quite decided on the position of the drivers opening or the bow gunners access door yet. No details inside so don't want them fully open so might just set them ajar.7 points
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Lots and lots of dry fitting the bodywork, trimming, refitting, swearing etc, and 3 hours later this is where we got to 🤣 Pain in the a**e, but on a big kit like this, something half a mm out of place makes all the difference to things sitting properly, and there are lots of parts that have to be spot on. Happy with the bottom now and the top fits decently enough. The nose needs a little fettling as it doesn't sit quite flush at the bottom and a test fit of the rear wing looks like it might be slightly on the p**s, but those 2 things should be easily fixed tonight7 points
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Hey!! It’s been a while. I was away last weekend so no bench time. although I did find something that reminded me of this GB. I also managed to pick up Nora virus that took me out for a few days but I’m back at 100% now thank heavens. Thanks for the well wishes. Now for the build. The engine got weathered enough for its hidden location. I had a go at some graffiti but nothing looked right and it all looked a bit forced so for now I have just added a few choice decals that make me happy. There’s one in the rear you can see up there. I sanded them back to make them look worn. Here’s a little one on the rear. Stull needs picking at. The engine gets hidden away. But at least we all know it’s there right. 🙃 Time for some work on the base. A bit of plaster of Paris. And we have some nice mud and a lake side. Also had a go at using the moulds. Popping it in place I think I’ve added more than I thought. the water level won’t cover quite as much of the keep as I had originally planned. Glad I added that engine now. Started adding a few washes to get the footwells more worn and grotty. Aand painted the dash blue again. (Couldn’t get on with the orange) Everything is just a bit shiny which is knocking me off, but I know it’ll look fine when the mat coat goes down. the base got primed. I know it looks the same but it is grey and ready for paint. And the little moulded rocks too. (Bless) Right, put a fork in me I’m done. Hope you’re still enjoying the build. Really need to get a bit of a shufty on I think. I want to start on that grass. 😇😇 More soon. Happy modelling chums. Johnny7 points
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Not a very exciting post for a weekend and a reasonable amount of time invested, mostly, finishing details. You will see I have masked and sprayed the canopy sections grey-green. Arma provide masks for both the closed and open canopy options. They do not tell you which suits which. The set that has been taken from the following image was what seemed to give me the best result with the open canopy part T3 option. I completed the underside ducting. This Included adding the radiator flap actuators and bracing. Arma provide nice hole locations for these but no parts. I used 0.3 mm (slightly bent) and 0.2 mm copper wire. The landing light covers do "fit like a glove". I found no need to use any glue. Ray7 points
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Painting the last details of the interior was finished in the morning. Having all the electronics exposed beside the driver’s seat isn’t correct, they were really hidden behind a protective cover. Then again; masking. Now to spray the underside. The detail painting of the bodyshell, even if not fully finished yet, has reached the stage for decal work to start, at last. Another issue that has kept my mind at work has been the windows with their black edges. There are decals supplied to be placed on the outside, but they aren’t convincing me, and they also aren’t entirely correct. I also discovered that the black on the door windows isn’t the same shape on the right and left sides on 787B-002. Here LMM has made both decals like the left side, while in their 1/12 kit MFH have their templates made like the right side. However the decals outer edges seemed to fit my prepared windows quite well, so I scanned the sheet and used it as a template to work from in AutoCAD, and soon I had a file to use in the Silhouette digital cutter. That wasn’t too hard, first attempt was good enough. To make the windscreen convincing it needs painting from both sides, and getting those two masks fitting reasonably took a second round of adjustments. This is the almost final result. There’s a little more work needed on the windscreen, but I think that will be done after it’s been fitted.7 points
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These were real crowd-pleasers at the local cruise on Saturday evening. Must have cost them a fortune in diesel, but great fun. Matt6 points
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Sorry late to the party So good news and bad news. Good news, rewatching Battlestar (with the wife 😱) 1/2 thru season 3 atm. Bad news, well you'll see I did order some tiny OLED screens for a DRADIS display but they all arrived smashed and I don't think I could have done that justice anyhow. So sprue shot And now the bad new, I really should check these things when they turn up, but have to hide them too quickly. The owners description of "new" meant someone had started to hand paint bits 😩 So first job will be learning how to get that off (just an IPA bath????)6 points
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The Peugeot 306 Maxi Evolution 2 from the 1998 Monte Carlo Rally , driven by Gilles Panizzi , co driven by his brother Herve . This car finished 9th overall and first in the Formula 2 class . This class was for two wheel drive , 2 litre non turbo engined cars . Aimed at being cost effective , Peugeot raised the game by developing highly tuned 300 hp engines and sophisticated front differentials and suspension systems to get all that power down . Weighing in at only 960 kg they were more than a match for the four wheel drive turbo top class WRC cars , winning the all tarmac World rallies outright later in the season . This kit was easy to build , the only problems being window fitment and a small rollcage issue , all of which can be found in a detailed WIP . Decals went down well , there’s lots of small details all of which fit where they need to go with no adjustment needed . Maybe not an obvious choice of rally car subject , but this is a great replica of another car from Peugeots rich rally history . And finally the other three Peugeot builds from my cabinet Thanks for looking Gary .6 points
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Here's my build of the RFM Panther Ausf. G. Painted with Tamiya lacquer paints, weathered with Tamiya pigments, acrylic and oil paint. As for my impressions on Rye Field Models, like many have noted before, I found the build overcomplicated at times, and the plastic was softer than I'm used to - that said, I'm very happy with the results.6 points
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Along with the obligatory fins and chrome cars, US trucks are increasingly popular on this side of the pond. This is a selection from Saturday evening's cruise in Redhill, I hope you enjoy them. Thanks for looking, Matt6 points
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Tamiya DH Mosquito FB VI Wg Cdr Max Guedj Squadron 143 January 1945 Humbrol brushpainted Eduard detailling set Build thread is here Thank you for this very interesting GB Patrice6 points
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Hi all, My build in this GB. Without the big gun as this was only used on the eastern front.6 points
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Next up the running gear. First a dirty wash on the underside and some light chipping as before, finished off with the Greenstuff Maxx Matt varnish. Bogies added. Idlers are just a dry fit at present. Added most of the little bits on the front and a couple of coats of light stone. Also painted the pioneer tools, and attached them to their base. Bit vibrant at the moment but will be calmed down with weathering. Going to leave it there for a day or so before attempting to get the tracks on.6 points
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A really really really nice kit...but ya gotta like decals (I don't) painted with Tamiya acrylics, Alclad lacquers, weathered with Vallejo and oils I went easy on the weapons and pylons etc. just thinking they may not have been dedicated to this airframe. with no further words (kinda picture heavy) here's the model Thanks for looking6 points
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. Still rolling with this.... 2nd wing stub got sorted. I didn't want to be repeating the engine mounting frame process - I left the nacelle intact and draped a tarpaulin over it, I cloned some corrugated sheet from piedish Ali using the roof of a Junkers Ju52 as a former. I've used it to cover the turret opening in a temporary sort of solution. There are 2 men working on it and one of them is up a ladder - Somebody else is chopping wood and I made a metal stovepipe to fix through the fuselage roof. Well, you need a wood burner to burn the wood, I reckon I've been splashing paint around without much of an idea of what I'm trying to achieve. General dirtyness and fadyness and a hint of a red decor trim along the top of the fuselage but very weathered and worn. I'm working on a couple of airline seats and a couple more residents The thing that has stuck in my mind is.... You know the nursery rhyme about the Lady who lived in a shoe, she had so many children she didn't know what to do......? Well, the kids are growing up and they have moved up the property ladder - they all live in a Lockheed Hudson now..... 😄 I think I'm going to have to do a vehicle project though. I'm getting envious of all the rusting decrepit iron and steel that's being done. Not really an option with aluminium airframes6 points
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There are a few options for different camouflage schemes... Sand with green patches. Original green with sand squiggles. Original green with sand brush painted over.6 points
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Continuing my trio of builds of Curtiss' finest next on the list alphabetically comes a 1/48 AMT P-40F, to be finished as an aircraft operated by the Free French in North Africa. The AMT kit is getting a bit long in the tooth now but is still a nicely detailed model if a little sparse in the cockpit by modern standards but considering the cockpit parts are almost a scale foot thick there's a very good chance this one will have it's lid closed so I think the addition of a set of seatbelts will be all that is required for this build. This kit is one of a set I got off Ebay about 10 years ago and didn't come in a box but did come still sealed in a plastic bag and complete with a very nice set of decals (which will go straight into the spares box!) and a set of photocopied instructions. The kit; Instructions and kit decals; These aircraft were delivered in the standard RAF desert scheme of Dark Earth/Middle Stone/Azure Blue with their original owners markings over painted in either a very fresh batch of paint or a different colour and looked like the example in the picture below; More on the USAAF K in another thread. I have a very nice set of decals for this project by Berna; Not sure if I will use the rudder stripe decals as they don't usually fit very well so will probably just paint them. Another subject I have wanted to build in a long time and am very much looking forward to starting. Thanks for looking in and as always any comments and criticism are gratefully received. Craig. 🇺🇦5 points
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I bought this at a model show just before that pandemic thingy. The seller assured me it was unbuilt and I was looking forward to a fun time with a kit from when I was modelling first time around - although I never had this particular one. Scalemates tells us this is the original boxing of this kit - from 1979. I wonder where it's been all this time. So, on opening the box: A singe sheet of instructions showing a fairly basic build although with a bit more detail that I'd expected. Thankfully I don't have to rely on my schoolboy French as there's an additional multilingual sheet with some simple instructions. That'll do. The sprues are in good shape with no flash. Not a great shot of the transparencies but they do look in decent condition - especially as they've been loose in the box for the last forty or so years. Then at the bottom of the box I found this: Someone had started the first step of the build and then given up. The pilot's seat looks as though it has been twisted off the sprue with some damage to the top of the back. Recoverable though I think. I then realised that there were no decals. Not too much of an issue as I'd expected them to be pretty much unusable given the age of the kit. So I bought these: Two schemes from the Tirpitz. That should do nicely. They come with comprehensive notes: Sadly all mostly in Czech - although the footnotes on the colour schemes etc are in English. As I was expecting a rather basic kit I also bought this Eduard p.e. set. Fortunately the kit had been reboxed by Revell - which is what this set is for. There's a lot of p.e. there, including a complete cockpit interior as shown by the instructions: There's more on the reverse of this page covering the navigator's position and the floats. While I was at it I also bought a replacement cowling from Quickboost: And finally I found that some time ago I'd bought a reference to the Ar 196: OK then. Time to go and stare at that p.e. fret and figure out some sort of plan for the interior. I wonder if it will fit. Onwards Mark5 points
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Having had a couple of non finishes due to paint drying issues, I've gone for something I know I have acrylics for. It's another golden oldie from me, well you didn't really expect anything else did you ! Brings back great memories of the epic Heller Classic GB, happy days. Good luck everyone Cheers Pat5 points
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This was waiting for me when I got home after my morning bike ride. And at last it's here, I have all the nice Airscale goodies for it as well, just have to finish my PCM Re2005 before I can start it. Cheers Dennis5 points
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Remember when I said this... Well as luck would have it I picked up Italeri's recent rebox of the old Esci A-4E for the classic italian GB. So i decided to use one of the spare resin exhausts I have on that kit as a test run for this build and I'm happy to report it wasn't a catastrophy! Fit was a bit rough as it wasn't designed for the Italeri kit but all in all much more confident heading in to this build now. Also managed to find a great photograph of an Ayit fitted with the laser designator in the Isradecal decal instructions. I'll be building this airframe as it has the white and red tail markings as its a 115 squadron Ayit and as you can see is fitted with 4 GBUs. Is it the 26th yet...?5 points