Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 27/10/22 in all areas

  1. Kinetic kit + DACO recce pod and chaff & flare dispensers, Quickboost seat & pitot tube, Armycast stencils, homemade decals. EnjoyšŸ™ƒ BR from Czech rep. Andrew
    25 points
  2. Hi all, Just getting back to modelling as Iā€™ve recently moved house and got my new workshop up and running (Iā€™ve added a few pics šŸ˜€). Iā€™ve so missed having a modelling space! I saw Brettā€™s review of the Brassin engine for this on Hyperscale and was so taken with the detail I had to order one and the associated Eduard S-199 - not a kit I would naturally be drawn to. The Brassin set is nothing short of spectacular in this scale, Iā€™m not sure itā€™s turned out exactly how I wanted it. Iā€™d be tempted to build another (maybe the two seat trainer?). Iā€™m never happy at the end of a model! It does require a little surgery of the fuselage and cockpit, but not too bad. Anyway, here she isā€¦ And the raw partsā€¦ And my new man cave! šŸ˜Š Thanks for looking in, Guy
    25 points
  3. #23/2022 And another of my dadĀ“s models has passed the finish line. After the Harvard, hereĀ“s the second of three Swedish subjects. Tarangus kit which has short-run character, so some more work is needed. Kit decals were great. Added Eduard seatbelts, EZ Line for the antenna wires and lead wire for the brake lines. Painted with a selfmixed blue-gray and Gunze H309 FS34079. Build thread here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235114245-skydiving-elk148-saab-b17a-svenska-flygvapnet/ The Saab 17 divebomber was SaabĀ“s first serial produced aircraft. There were three version, powered by different engines. The "A" was equipped with a Pratt & Whitney R-1830. The Saab 17 was used by the Swedish Airforce from 1942 to 1947. The model shows an aircraft of 1st Sqn, stationed at Frƶsƶn 1944-45. DSC_0001 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0016 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0017 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0018 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0019 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0020 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0021 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0022 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0023 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0024 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0001 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
    19 points
  4. I'm new to this site and this is the first British model I've made, before this I've focused on US Navy. Had a lot of help from Micro Master in NZ. Hopefully it's presentable in this learned forum! Thanks for looking.
    17 points
  5. Evening all, Today I've got the Cooperative boxing of the FROG Blenheim 1/1F ready for combat. The Cooperative boxing isn't ultimately worth much more than the base FROG kit imo - the PE cockpit details being all but invisible. I did add some detail with assorted Airfix Blenheim parts. Mainly this included the seat, panel, bombsight, stick, and rear cockpit bulkhead fashioned as usual from the rear bomb bay wall. It isn't perfect, but it's a good improvement. Bar those changes and using Airfix wheels and turret parts, the result is OOB. Originally I finished it as a bomber before remembering that the B/W undersides were a fighter scheme and the fact that 601 doesn't seem to have operated bomber variants confirmed the addition of the gun pack, which was thankfully easy. Thus, the third of a planned 12-15 Blenheims is completed. For whichever reason, there is a hint of silvering evident in photos of this side of the result, no matter what I try - silvering that is only visible from certain angles in the flesh. Odd... Right, the rest. With this one done, I've gone off to work on something a little more elegant - Probably. More soon, Tweener
    17 points
  6. Hi everyone This is one that had been left on the shelf of doom time through no fault of it's own. I think I started it for a D Day GB a few years back and then lost interest for reasons I cant remember. Anyway, it was at about the priming the stage and I'd bought some of the newish Gunze Super Metallic 2 paints and wanted to give them a try. I'd also wanted to build Little Jeep for sometime too and had the old Aeromaster decal sheet with it on. So here she is. Little Jeep of the US 75th FS based in China in 1944/45. Painted mainly with Super Metallic 204 and mixes with others from the same range. Tamiya LP-11 was used for the laquered wings. The stars and bars were sprayed on using Montex Masks and weathered with Flory Models dark dirt wash and some oils. All other paints are Tamiya. The sharp eyed among you may notice that the cover for the light in the leading edge of the left wing and the pitot are missing. These were on my desk and were cleared up by accident. The search continues for replacements. Thanks for looking. Questions and comments welcome as always. James 57614741-ED78-4DE6-A3D9-890405BB800B by James Halls, on Flickr 4826073D-9478-4240-AB5D-301FD71EFC12 by James Halls, on Flickr 9295B26E-751D-4DF7-9274-04BAB600E8F0 by James Halls, on Flickr 7AD6349D-2BBB-488F-99C5-7BCEAC0049A7 by James Halls, on Flickr 702FFE95-7E21-4BB8-A5A8-F62B973D302F by James Halls, on Flickr 97279D26-E316-4767-BBE8-98E89FACCE21 by James Halls, on Flickr 91D700AF-AAE8-40DE-9520-E0C877D8F1FA by James Halls, on Flickr 145947BA-319B-47FA-8378-DF904E87F2F0 by James Halls, on Flickr 22F98217-1384-4D7D-9F73-A59C9AA2BC81 by James Halls, on Flickr
    17 points
  7. What a great little kit! Added a Hasegawa pilot and Tamiya AIM-9 missiles (the kit provided missiles had sink marks - couldn't be bothered šŸ™‚) Painted with AK/MRP paint and kit decals (by Cartograf) were used. Thanks for looking!
    17 points
  8. Well that took a little longer to update than expected. Sorry about that. we have been getting ready for our favourite time of year. Almost as scary as the first coat of custard on the Fly. šŸŖ° Not quite the bruised banana of old but it is a tough colour as @corsaircorpsaid. Worry not as this is not my first custardy rodeo šŸ¤  More pudding vicar? A little more and weā€™re there. Lovely. šŸ’› some close ups to show the pre shade. Tail. And wings. Happy with that. šŸ˜€ All the bits got a blast too. Now ready for a bit oā€™ masking , blu-tac sausages. I always free hand the first colour. This is Mr colour paint thinned with Mr colour thinners. As mentioned by @Fritag in his wonderful hawk build he uses Mr Colour with Tamiya so I think Iā€™ll give it a go as I do like the finish. šŸ¤ž More chocolate. now I left her like this to dry to see what she looked like in daylight. Here she is the next morning.looking the part I thought. And off I went ( well to the opposite desk ) to work. *Note the young man flaps close to the edge of the desk. Now prizes who can guess what this is. šŸ˜¬šŸ˜¬šŸ˜¬šŸ˜©šŸ˜©šŸ˜©šŸ¶šŸ¶šŸ¶ Damn that hound. šŸ˜” ok so not one to cry over spilt young man flaps I decided not to print but to go all old school (thanks to my inner @perdu) and just make a replacement from plasticard. Cut. Bish. Sanded to shape. Bash. Scribed rivited and hinged. Bosh!!!šŸ¤“ Now with a pre shade and a lick of paint weā€™re back to rhombus uno. šŸ˜‡ Iā€™ll leave this with a few shots of the brown camo in the sun. The Treat. Now for the Trick!!!!! The purple plastic eater!! šŸ™ Thanks for dropping in dear chums. More soon. Maybe the weekend but we do have a Halloween party so who knows what might happen. Iā€™ll keep the office locked thatā€™s for sure. Happy Halloween folks. Johnny. šŸŽƒ
    17 points
  9. Another b----y Spitfire! This is the excellent Tamiya Mk.I that I modelled as a Mk.II following an inspection of the Loch Doon Spitfire at the Dumfries and Galloway Aviation Museum. Back in the summer, I visited the museum and the staff there were absolutely lovely and allowed me to get very up close and personal with the airframe. The aircraft crashed in Loch Doon in 1941 and was rescued in the 1980s after several attempts to find it. The restoration has taken the wreaked fuselage, rebuilt it and mated to a set of replica wings. Importantly, the cockpit is more-or-less intact and I can publish images if anybody is interested. In th emeantime, take a look here for more information. https://www.dumfriesaviationmuseum.com/the-collection/loch-doon-spitfire/ After much umming and ahhhing, I decided to model the Tamiya kit as a Mk.II by adding a Quickboost Rotol spinner and adding the all-important bulge that accommodated the Coffman starter geartrain at the front of the engine. Now for the colour scheme. I was brought up reading Ian Huntley's articles in Scale Aircraft Modelling in the 1980s. These were utterly fascinating for their precision and personal insight but could be frustrating as he did, at times. 'go on a bit'. I remember one particular article where one minute I was reading about colour shades and the next I was being instructed on how to fabricate a measuring spoon! In these recent times, both to protect the original magazines, and allow rapid interrogation, I have digitised the articles and one advantage is that I can search for and go straight to the detail. The period of 1941 to 1942 would have been fascinating as colour schemes morphed from Dark Earth to Ocean Grey. However, according to Huntley, Ocean Grey was not specified until the Spring of 1942 and between August 1941 and then, a shade known as 'Mixed grey' (7:1 ratio of Sea Grey, Medium and Night) was used. Better still (controversy alert), th einitial instructions in August 1941 specified retaining Sky undersurfaces for home defence aircraft although MSg was to be used for offensive aircraft and soon after, it became the standard for all fighters. I used MRP colours, including creating my own mixed grey (which is noticeably paler and less blue than Ocean Grey) and retaining sky undersurfaces because I could. After priming, I painted the port wing black before mottling in white with black mottling for the rest of the undersurfaces. I also practiced by chipping skills (using AK chipping fluid), building up the colours with a limited covering of silver to represent bare metal, then interior grey green to serve as primer and, finally, a little dark earth to the chipping would reveal different layers. Comments and criticism welcomed. By the way, I discovered I had the Czech roundel wrong after I had finished the varnish. šŸ¤Ø Kind regards, Neil
    16 points
  10. Hello all, i hope everyone is well This is titled as a belated birthday wish as it was the P-51's 82nd birthday on the 26th October. This is my 1/32 Tamiya P-51D done as 'Glengary Guy' and this kit is just dream to build and after the tornado build....it was a great mojo rebuilder. This aircraft was piloted by Capt. Glenn Martin Webb. Glenn Martin Webb flew P-51D Mustang with the MC-Z lettering and was named 'Glengary Guy' using his name (Glenn), Gary (son), and Guy (son). The right side cowling read Jackie (Wife) This is the info I have found so far as I thought maybe he was born in Gleengary or something haha! (This is the info i found, but not 100% and would be very interested if others have some info) Paints were Tamiya and i was very impressed with the new lacquer paints in their range, the LP-11 (Silver) is tough as old boots and was a great base for the main colour and the chipping, the standard Tamiya paints were durable but could easily be chipped over the tougher lacquer paint. Red Fox Studios cockpit set was also added to the kit. Anyway, over to you :-)
    15 points
  11. Time to get started! I've had this kit for quite some time, and even though it's been succeeded and exceeded by the new Airfix offering I decided to go ahead and build her anyway. I didn't take pictures of the sprues, etc. but I did purloin this image of the box top: Although it's not stated on the box, this is the MPM kit re-packaged by Airfix. The two marking schemes are from the Queen's Coronation Review flypast or so I'm told. That is not on the box top either, nor is it mentioned in the instruction booklet. In any case, I'm liking the 92 Squadron scheme as I have some kind of fascination with yellow and red checkers. Besides, looking at how Airfix would have you add the red checker decals to a painted yellow tail looks to be enough to drive one batty. No problem-o! I'm already batty so I won't "bat" an eyelash. And it's All Hallows Eve - what better time to be batty? I haven't done much yet. The cockpit tub, rear bulkhead, and turtledeck have been painted Tamiya NATO Black (actually a dark grey) as have the inside of the forward fuselage and the sidewalls (separate pieces). I find the the Tamiya paint is dead flat and very susceptible to damage from normal handling, so I always gloss coat it with a clear lacquer for protection. I have the Eduard photoetch detail set for this kit, and the bits for the cockpit tub are pretty sparse. The seat that comes with the kit is a caricature I think - however, I also had a Pavla resin Martin Baker Mk.II ejection seat complete with footrests. I think it will look better. The seat was painted with Mr. Hobby H12 Flat Black, and will of course get further painting and detailing. I like to have some contrast in these all-black interiors and I've found a black wash shows ups nicely on NATO Black, and the black seats and instrument/control panels also stand out. I've been gathering photos of the F.8 cockpit and the side consoles and sidewalls do look sparse - at least compared to more modern fighters. We'll do what we can, even if I have to add some colour via mythical details. As is typical of MPM/Special Hobby short run kits, where to glue the side consoles, rear bulkhead and turtledeck is a bit of a mystery. I chose locations that made the most sense when dry fitting everything together. Is it right? Beats me, but it does fit nicely. I also finished the instrument panel using the Eduard photoetch but forgot take a picture. Probably because I'm old. Oddly, the lower instrument panel, consisting of six instruments, does not have a corresponding backing part like the main panel. Not sure what Eduard was thinking there. Anyway, I found some decals that match the six holes nicely and I used that as a backing part. Once I post a photo that should make more sense. Or not. Eduard provide some generic photoetch for the sides of the main gear bays, which are just smooth walls in the kit. These were attached with Gator Grip, and although there are some areas that are a bit taller than the plastic, they seem to fit in-between the halves of the wings without any fit problems. Like I said, I haven't done much. But there is not much to the kit, and even the Eduard set doesn't have a lot of parts. Hopefully, the very attractive paint and marking scheme will save this from being just another ho-hum model. Cheers, Bill
    14 points
  12. Hi mates, Northrop began work on the BT dive bomber in 1935 but in 1937 the Northrop Corporation was acquired by Douglas who then ran Northrop as a subsidiary. The BT project continued and the Northrop BT-1 entered service with the USN in 1938 aboard Enterprise and Yorktown. The USN acquired 54 production versions of their new dive bomber, but due to some unpredictable handling characteristics at slow speed it was not an entirely successful design. It was a modern aircraft for the time, being an all-metal monoplane with retracting landing gear (although the gear retracted backwards into a rather ungainly looking housing below the wing). Ed Heinemann and his talented designers then improved the BT-1 and the resulting BT-2 flew in 1938. The USN ordered 144 production aircraft, with the last 87 re-designated as the Douglas SBD-1 Dauntless. The rest, as they say, is history with nearly 6,000 SBD aircraft produced during WW2. This is the first Valom kit I've ever built, and I have to say that I wasn't all that impressed with it. However, for a short-run kit it is more than adequate if you can ignore some of its inaccuracies. It is, to my knowledge, the only injected moulded kit in this scale. (See my WIP for the various issues.) At the end of the day, it is a nice addition to anyone's yellow-wing collection. Project: Northrop BT-1 Kit: Valom Kit No. 72016 Scale: 1:72 Decals: Pretty much all came from the spares box as the kit decals had some "disintegration" issues Resin: From the kit, for the cockpit, engine and exhausts Photoetch: Also from the kit, including the dive flaps, wing internal detail, and cockpit fiddlies. Vacuform: From the kit, for the canopy. An injected canopy is also included. Masks: Made by hand! With a pencil and a pair of scissors! Paint: Alclad ALC106 White Aluminum, ALC107 Chrome, ALC104 Pale Burnt Metal; Gunze H11 Flat White, H12 Flat Black, H15 Bright Blue, H90 Clear Red, H94 Clear Green, H326 Insignia Blue, H327 Insignia Red, H329 Insignia Yellow; MRP 127 Super Clear Matt, 048 Super Clear Gloss; Tamiya XF-69 NATO Black Weathering: None. Improvements/Corrections Not much... New forward machine gun and cover Added roll-over structure in the cockpit using card stock Photoetch details from the spares box added to main gear bays Photoetch structural details added to dive flaps Added antenna wires with EZ-Line (Fine) and 0.008" Nitinol wire Added port wing pitot tube Added photoetch port wing landing light Stripes on propeller wingtips and arresting hook are painted, not decals Some pics: Bright and colourful, she'll look nice in the display case. Cheers, Bill
    14 points
  13. Managed to get a bit done after getting back from the trip. Big thanks to @Stew Dapple for kindly posting some Aeroclub metal props. Last week before I was aware of them, I had a play filing one of the props to look more accurate. quite pleased with how it turned out, although getting the blades consistent is pretty difficult, let alone doing it for 12 of them. These pics are an unmodified one and a corrected one to give a sense of the work necessary. The hubs look too small, not sure if that's just my perception though. The eagle eyed amongst you will notice the masks are now off the clear bits! Hate the reveal in case the interiors are caked in dust and spray! The engines are now done, just awaiting a repaint so hope to get them done Friday. and the gear doors fitted too: Hoping to have her done for the weekend Cheers Neil
    12 points
  14. I've had the same reluctance to settle into panel lines that Steve mentions but thankfully it's not much of an issue on this build as only the wing roundels cross any panel lines and I seem to have managed it through dint of perseverance. I don't think any decals would have coped with with going over the Vortex Generators. Same, Bill. Notwithstanding my grumbles, the Xtradecal set is nice and clear and in register and sharp so I should give credit for that. I like the colours too. Got all the serials on the valley Hawk; losts of concentration needed given that the numerals mostly had to be applied separately. The large code numbers on the fuselage where a concern as the Xtradecal set didn't have any 7s. After scratching my head for a bit I belatedly remembered I've got a few Xtradecal sets of different size RAF codes and in particular some 1/72 16" white code numbers. Problem solved. Save for trying to get 3 individual codes to line up in the proper place at the proper angle... Here she is now with some of the more obvious markings and stencils in place. Noted James. Only a modest number of markings to go, most importantly the ejection seat triangles and other markings around the cockpits, and then a clear coat. And then repeat on the TWU Hawk. And then I'll try to bring them to life (and maybe cover up a scruffy bit or two ) with some subtle post-paint effects.
    12 points
  15. This was one of three kits that came with an Airfix aircraft 'Mystery Bundle' in January 2022 and was supposed to be a quick interlude while building the Matchbox Wellesley; but it isn't an easy kit in terms of parts fit and needs plenty of filling and sanding. It was always going to be wheels up and a base from Coastal Kits helped finish it off. Airfix replicated the port vertical stabiliser decal as the same as the stbd, which is incorrect. I found a photo after completion of the model showing the port vertical stabiliser scheme, and it is completely different from the stbd side: too late now. The main grey colours are from Mr Color and are airbrushed freehand. It's OK, but if you really want an F-15 in your display cabinet there are far better kits than this one. Well it's no longer languishing in its box in my loft, so that'll do for me.
    11 points
  16. Well at last the driver's weatherproofing is completed. OK I mean his apron is now wrapped round him for warmth and keeping rain and snow off him, not a great 'cab' for him but wait a few years 'til he has to drive a motor bus with an open cab at higher speeds huh. His reins and whip are on the way, soon be entirely done with this one. I decided against advertising two different ciggy brands so the Wild Woodbine ad is consigned to a place in the 'bit-stash' and its place under the staircase is now taken up by an advert for CARTER'S little liver pills. No please don't ask... Apparently its authentic and it has been seen there so I am happy, you? Horses have their blinkers/blinders, what a gruesome name for them. Luckily they only stop them seeing things likely to alarm them. Hmm Can you guess how much thought was given to storage before I began this project? No, even less than that! Soon be finished, I keep telling me that. Hey, look at the time. two weeks and two, no, one day...
    11 points
  17. Thanks for all of the useful tips. After the disaster with the dark wash, and the thinners trying to strip the paint off, I had a go at repairing the damage with various pigments. Now believe me, although it seems that I have gone way OTT, I haven't. There are several photos of IDF tanks that have been through the Negev Desert, and look as though they have been completely resprayed with fine dust. They are literally covered in the stuff. I just hope that the final appearance looks realistic. I used Carrs Coal Black for the shadow areas, and Migs European Dust and Gulf War Sand. As well as the upper hull and turret, I also paid attention to the lower hull, including the VVSS units. Not perfect, but better than it was. Still a lot to do with regards to painting, so I'll be back when there is some more progress. John.
    11 points
  18. After sixty years of intermittently building plastic kits, I'm getting quite bored with the hobby. I made my latest and probably last aeroplane back in the F-4 GB and while the kit was state of the art, had to build it 'battle damaged' to keep my interest up long enough to finish it. So much for aircraft then. I've started a wooden model of HMS Beagle which has stalled at the moment, but will soon be reappearing on the bench. But there are a dozen or so AFVs in plastic that I don't want to waste. Half of them are associated with the Valentine tank which I'm doing a one-man GB with. This is one of that series. It's a Valentine turret on a fast, easy to build, cheap chassis provided by AEC. It carried a lot of armour and was quite a big vehicle. It's a 'wheeled tank' at seven tons. It's a strange shape. The kit was typical of MiniArt; well detailed and with very many small parts. I was still bored though. Until I came to paint the engine and threw the 'realism rules' out of my cot. A bright blue engine and bright red fuel tanks led to an exterior painted in grisaille style with exaggerated shadows and highlights which was then coloured with inks, not paint, giving splendidly varied hues. Then it was chipped like a supercomputer as though it had been attacked by an army of leprechauns armed with maces. And here's the result which delights and interests me. You may well hate it, but I didn't do it this way for you, so that's irrelevant really. No, I take that last bit back. I'd be very interested in the reactions of those who don't like it. I have a skin as thick at an armoured car so don't hold back. Imagine it on the stage of the Milan opera house behind large ladies and gentlemen dressed for the desert singing about armoured warfare and you will understand this (to me) new way of making my models. šŸŽ¼ "It's a tank, it's a tank! No it's not, no it's not! Where are the tracks, tracks it must have tracks, I tell you! Rattatat! Bang! You're just as dead, dead, dead without the tracks, the tracks. It has no tracks. We are so dead....." Here's the AEC with the Archer and Valentine models both built in a doomed attempt to be 'realistic'. I think turning everything up to 11 is the way I'll be making my music models in the future. Until I get bored with it...
    10 points
  19. This is my most challenging build to date. The kit itself is easily Matchbox's greatest achievement in terms of detail and finesse, and from when the masters where probably carved in wood. It suffers though from the the near non-existent or vague attachment points everywhere. A more modern kit would solve these issues but even then the subject is just very demanding as a build due to it's complexity. There just isn't a easy way to handle the model while its being built and it was tempting to stick wings on it just so I could hold it. Finally the extensive chrome work was very challenging - I used Alcad as that's what I had but the finish is just too delicate, clear coating helps but you lose that sheen. I will explore newer alternatives such s the Molotow pen refills and Green Stuff World Chrome but I don't want to got near another metal finish for a quite a while! I re-spoked the wheels with florist's wire and insulation stripped from fine wire. The kit's seat position was lowered to the correct height. Like my other Matchbox builds this year it will be on show at SMW on the Classic British Kits SIG table.
    10 points
  20. A little more done today. Fitting and aligning wheels is something I usually do as late as possible, but with a car like this it has to be done much earlier, meaning a lot of test fitting back and forth. The suspension parts in the kit have allowance for various ride heights, but for the very lowest parked setting I want, they needed a bit of cutting and adjusting. Here the glue is curing in the final position. The bodyshell is thin over the rear wheels, but of course still far thicker than true scale thickness, so it's necessary to grind material off from the top of the rear wheels to allow for my low parked position and still keep the correct track width. The front suspension parts also needed some cutting. Again the epoxy glue is curing here. The glue joints are a little weak so I left it like this for the day and I might add some glue tomorrow when this has settled firmly. The iconic front end was assembled and is ready to join the bodyshell. The centre console finished from a surprising number of parts that all went together nicely producing a good result. Very nice work from USCP. The same goes for the dashboard. All the several parts went together perfectly giving a crisp result. With the addition of our own oval shaped steering wheel.
    10 points
  21. All the decals on now. Shouldn't be too much further to go with this one...
    10 points
  22. Revell 1/72 Macchi 200 Saetta (Lightning) from 1967. Build thread is here if you are interested. Thanks for a super GB! Regards, Adrian
    10 points
  23. Hi all, I'll be working on a hobbyboss 1/35 Leichter sd kfz 221. My first non-tamiya build so a bit daunted but the great review by Mike on here has given me an idea of what to expect: I'll be building the 221 into the central focus of a diorama (as always!) with the additional below kit: I have a few German figures with a raft and a soga German MG figure which should hopefully fit into the leichter as hobbybos don't provide a gunner for the the vehicle. I might set up a separate thread for the build of the FT-17, as the main focus here will be the armoured car obviously. The below 'plank' shows my very, very loose plan for the dio: I've cut it down from 18mm mdf: With this I'm going for a may 1940 France, thinking around the Ourthe river or the Meuse at Sedan etc. I'd normally start with the figures, then the vehicle and then the diorama (so I can get the composition and proportions right but this time I'm going to have to start with the diorama and vehicle and then a few figs and then come back to the diorama the other vehicle and then the rest of the figs, because I've got some resin which is rapidly going off and I need to get the tail of the Leichter into it.) My refs and inspiration are below: http://www.kfzderwehrmacht.de/SdKfz_221_mit_Nummer_222.jpg Thanks to all for taking a look. Best for no, Paul
    9 points
  24. Morning all All interior BMF work is done I've started the assembly process... and then discovered that the kitchen vinyl monster had gobbled up the handbrake...šŸ˜”. So I'll need to scratch build one before I can carry on. Looking at what I need to do next I think most of the parts are painted so it's all assembly for the next steps. I'm hoping this will come together fairly quickly now but we shall see...šŸ™‚ Thanks for looking, Nick
    9 points
  25. Vince, Thanks for the warning/advice ! I do have this panther, though .............
    9 points
  26. This was an old boxing and went together nicely. I added three passengers to the cabin and used aftermarket decals, otherwise it was straight OOB including the stand. The de Havilland Canada DHC-2 Beaver first flew on 16 August 1947. The United States Air Force and Army designated the aircraft L-20A and the 10th Tactical Reconnaissance Wing based at Chelveston, was allocated 52-6146 between 31 December 1959 and 28 May 1960.
    8 points
  27. There is, or was, an image on the web of a Guards Division Stummel about to cross a bridge over the Rhine (I think). This particular Stummel belonged to the Leicestershire Yeomanry, a Royal Artillery regiment, equipped with Sexton SPGs. They acquired the vehicle following the destruction of German armoured units at St Vith. It was still present with the regiment for the division's end of war parade. This build will be of that Stummel. The kit: Extras: Decals, paint, and tracks. The decals may supply stars, the blue on the unit markings is way too light. So far as I can tell, the half-track was towing a British 10 cwt trailer with metal sides and mud-guards. The nearest trailer kit I can find is this Bronco trailer, which lacks mud-guards. The Bronco trailer: The extras in the Bronco kit will also be raided for a radio and, maybe, other British kit.
    8 points
  28. 001 by Matt Farmer, on Flickr Hello to you all, These two 1:43 white metal record car / dragster kits were issued by Lawrence Designs and Models in 1978, contemporary with the real cars. Barry Bowles acheived a British Land Speed Record of 218.7mph in the rocket powered Blonde Bombshell at Elvington in September 1977. Attempting to better that feat at Pendine Sands in April 1978, Bowles was lucky to walk away unscathed when the car came to grief in spectacular fashion. Just a few months later, in September 1978, Malcolm Olley made an unsuccessful bid for the same record in the DH Goblin powered Pink Panther. I was fortunate enough to see the Pink Panther run at Blackbushe and again at Pendine Sands for the record attempt. Both builds are OOB aside from a few homemade decals, mostly on the jet car as that sheet disintegrated. Paint is Halfords Ford Diamond White over white primer. Note the tyres have begun to melt and will be disposed of now the pics are done. WIP can be found here Anyway, on with the photos 002 by Matt Farmer, on Flickr 003 by Matt Farmer, on Flickr 004 by Matt Farmer, on Flickr 004r by Matt Farmer, on Flickr 005 by Matt Farmer, on Flickr 006 by Matt Farmer, on Flickr 007 by Matt Farmer, on Flickr 009 by Matt Farmer, on Flickr 008 by Matt Farmer, on Flickr Thankyou for looking, Matt
    8 points
  29. Collect-Aire 1/48 Northrop X-4 Skylancer(Bantam) Here's my second build. Collect-Aire's Northrop X-4 Skylancer or commonly know as the Bantam Quickboost Resin ejection seat, some scratch building, paint mostly Tamiya, Mig-Ammo, and Alclad II You can find the WIP here: Thanks for stopping by and having a look around
    8 points
  30. Bought for a fiver at the Avon show. Built OOB except for CMK Ejection seats and Eduard RBF tags. Painted with Sovereign colourcoats, the high gloss finish was a trial. Neither VMS or Vallejo gloss really cut it, so I tried Mr Color GX100 sprayed at 10psi very close with the output turned up worryingly high! Thanks For looking Rob
    7 points
  31. My first time posting armor work in progress here - or anywhere actually - since resuming the hobby after a ten year hiatus. Is it starting to come right, or was I better off on hiatus? Please let me know ...
    7 points
  32. I scored this kit for $10.00 USD at a show and it was a great deal. The kit goes together fantastic and the "many" decals were unbelievable. . Out of box except for the seatbelts that were made from wine bottle seal materials. Used Revell paints except Uschi powders on exhaust metals and GX-100 Clear from Gunze for decal base and final overcoat. This kit was pleasure to build and the challenge of the many deals kept me on my toes. Took a few days as I applied decals and allowed sections to seat and dry before adding more. I used Solvaset over the decals and produced great look. Turkish Crescent on underside was really cool. Off to find a Mirror for this one. Thanks all for looking Comments are always welcome Cheers Bill
    7 points
  33. So, i took the comment made by @FrancisGLto heart. Today i spent some time working on the tracks and running gear. I gave it a heavier dustcoat with some pigments and some light splatter effects. It's always handy to have a cheap set of crayons in your stash. After that i worked on the figures. That was fun! And they turned out descent. In fact, i like em both so i placed both figures in and on the Sherman. So now i'm calling this project finished. Tomorow or friday i'll get my photo booth so then i'll start a thread in the RFI. For now here are some photo's of the complete model. it was a fun project. I learned alot. I want to thank you all for your comments. on to the next one. šŸ˜‰šŸ‘ cheers guys!
    7 points
  34. Nicely recovered, scribed and riveted! I guess he's properly in the doghouse now... Regards, Adrian
    7 points
  35. The cockpit interior is now repainted black which is a shame as all the lovely detail is lost. I didn't bother to take a picture as the one above looks better. I glued the main components together with epoxy but added the wings with CA glue. The mouldings are very thin and care is needed with every step. Sitting in the jig to dry Some filler is needed under the intakes and on the lower fuselage seam. Otherwise the fit is pretty good.
    7 points
  36. Well I threatened I might and indeed I have gone and got an Airfix meteor to go with the matchbox one. Most definitely a much more refined kit, but itā€™ll be interesting to see how the finished results compare. I shanā€™t bother with a sprue shot as many others already have. I havenā€™t decided on the scheme yet except Iā€™m leaning towards camouflage not nmf, might even use the kit scheme or possibly an Israeli scheme to complement the NF.
    6 points
  37. My intention for the group build is the Italeri SdKfz 232 6 Rad heavy reconnaissance armoured car. The 232 was a prewar Wehrmacht design based on a conventional truck chassis and unlike later Wehrmacht types was simple in design with 6 x4 drive train mounted on a ladder chassis with leaf spring suspension. It had limited off road capability and was used in the Blitzkrieg campaigns. It was latter replaced by more modern complex types such as the SdKFz 232 8 rad. As it was based on a truck chassis it was produced by Bussing Nag and Magirus. Italeri`s kit was first produced in 2004 and was re released this year. Nicely moulded it is a simple kit of a conventional armoured car. Some photos. Grahame
    6 points
  38. This Revell MiG 21F-13 was entered in the FB Conflict100 Group Build. Black 5402 was one of the few 1967 Six Day War survivors and a rare early MiG 21 type painted in the "Nile Valley" camouflage used in the 1973 Yom Kippur War. Cheers, Luka
    6 points
  39. With all the building done as far as I can tell, the only thing left is to add the decals. Once added I let them dry over night then gave everything a coat of gloss varnish. [/u So there you have it. I had this finished for about a week but the house has been in an uproar with new windows being installed and that threw off my updates. Well that and getting a build in the main WIP out of the way. So now that 2 finished for the Gallery. But not to worry there are more "X's" to come. Thanks for following along and all the word of encouragement. I'll have final images in the Gallery shortly and the start of a few more subjects. So stay safe, stay healthy and keep on modelling on!
    6 points
  40. Time for another update! I finished the masking and sprayed down my light blue IMG_20221025_194459866 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20221025_201143453 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20221025_201452641 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20221026_194900642 by Nick Frost, on Flickr And before the Mr color paint had even fully dried I just couldn't wait and carefully peeled off the masking tape! IMG_20221026_203536933 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20221026_203603415 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Really pumped about how the colours look together and thankfully all the masking worked out with no overspray or anything, plus it was a swine to copy the details from one side to the other but it looks a close enough match to me. The only minor issue was a little bit of paint came away on the yellow front stripe IMG_20221026_203614900 by Nick Frost, on Flickr But thats no big deal I'll just mask the stripe off and spray more yellow. I also got the engine screwed in to the frame, a lot of the pipework cant go in till its in place so I can get that sorted now. Also I want it together to help me sort out how I'm doing the engine, I'd like to be able to sort out the added engine bits with it all together and have them be removable so I can then paint and then glue it in place. IMG_20221026_201544676 by Nick Frost, on Flickr And speaking of the engine, I had a couple of parts in mind for the jet bits at the back, so I dug an old 1/60 freedom gundam I made yeeeeears ago out of his spares box coffin. IMG_20221026_201202632 by Nick Frost, on Flickr The parts I want to use are his shoulder boosters IMG_20221026_201210120 by Nick Frost, on Flickr After a bit of careful surgery (which was simple as I'd just rattle canned the paint on the sprue and then just push fitted it all with no glue) I have the engines out. IMG_20221026_201714267 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Next up I'll take a look at how I can get them in place and I'll mask out the rear tank and fairing and also sort out the chip on the yellow stripe Thanks for looking, more soon
    6 points
  41. Hi Fritag ?????? 'Scruffy Bit' - what are you saying, this is the tidiest build (pair of builds) I've ever seen.... you self deprecate to a very high order! Looking forward to completion, whenever that may be - it's worth waiting for The work you have done here, and the new technologies you have learned along the way, are jaw droppingly good It has been, and will continue to be, a pleasure to follow ATB Geoff
    6 points
  42. It seems that with the advent of Companies like Arma, modelling in 1/72 has become very exciting and rewarding. I found the Arma Hurricane a pleasure to build and really captured the bulldog character of the plane. In this box the markings of Flt lt Nicholson are included. He is famous as Fighter Command's VC. On 16th August near Southampton he was bounced and his cockpit caught fire. Staying with his aircraft for a while he opened fire at a passing Messerschmidt. To add insult to injury he suffered gunshot wounds from the Home Guard on his way down. With this kit I included the Eduard PE, Quickboost control column and gunsight. Also the DMD mask for the fabric surfaces to cause a shadow effect. I now like to use an AK template with lots of holes to add more shadowing to the surfaces Hope you like it? Andrew
    6 points
  43. Cheating a bit as I should have shared this months ago, but I was delighted to learn there is an Alfa 6 living a mile up the road from me. Always wanted to see one!
    6 points
  44. Iā€™m going to build this one in all its Vintage Classic -er- glory: I will fix the famous mudguard issue and make other changes when and where it amuses me. Definitely ā€œbuilding the kitā€, not ā€œcreating an accurate replicaā€. As the old Irish joke goes,I wouldnā€™t start from here! Regards, Adrian
    5 points
  45. I want to join this GB with another Airfix 1/48th Meteor F.8, the kit looks very good but to improve it I have some AM in the form of the Eduard Zoom cockpit p/e set and Eduard resin wheels and mudguards. I am planning to paint this kit in the high speed silver finish and 615 Sqn markings as worn by WH445 as flown by the CO of the Sqn. Here is the kit, ready for a soapy wash. I don't know too much about the Meteor, so I have bought a book to learn more, pictured here with the AM that I have. Ready to begin this kit, I will get the cockpit started first.
    5 points
  46. Here we have a 1/32 Hunter GA.Mk.11, converted from Revellā€™s Hunter FGA.Mk.9 using the Flightpath set. Itā€™s in FRADU markings from around 1980, before they went overall grey. This build has taken a long time, and itā€™s largely because I just couldnā€™t get on with the kit or the conversion. The Revell Hunter is actually an excellent kit in many ways, but it includes a few pitfalls that waylaid me. For instance, the intakes are meant to fit cunningly inside the airframe to lock it all together once you add the wings. But I couldnā€™t get them to assemble cleanly, and that meant they wouldnā€™t fit - hence the intake blanks. The wings could use more internal bracing to make sure they close properly without the edges opening up, and the wingtips are a poor fit. The maingear doors come with a forest of little jacks and stays that are none of them quite the right length, and few have positive location points. I left half of them in the box. And the cockpitā€™s a bit basic, especially the seat. Still, the kitā€™s got lovely surface detail, and it fits well everywhere else. And it absolutely looks the part. The conversion comprises two heavyweight frets of PE steel and a few bits of resin and white metal. I ended up using none of the PE at all and only the resin tailcone and the white metal hook. Not wanting to start an argument or anything, but I found the PE murder to work with and no great improvement on the kit, so letā€™s just say I gave up on it. The tailcone is the slightly smaller fit of the Mk.11 (in real life, converted from an old Mk.4). Now, the first version of the kit was the Mk.9 with the brake parachute, which covered the lower part of the fin. The conversion was designed for that kit and of course has no parachute - but while you get the end of the fuselage, youā€™re on your own when it comes to reinstating that bit of the fin. Ah well. The Harley light I had to knock up myself, but itā€™s surprisingly easy, mostly using the kit itself. You saw the tip off the nose and round off the lip; then you assemble one of the larger tanks that you probably wonā€™t use because itā€™s a Mk.11, and you cut the nose off that; then you mount it reversed inside the kitā€™s nose; then you drop in a Maverick seeker head (from the Swiss version), also reversed; and you close it all off with a little bit of acetate. The only other addition is the predictably excellent pitot tube from Master. The bulk of the decals were from the kit and went on superbly, even after 24 years on the shelf. However, some were just tiny specks of ink, so I disposed of them. The FRADU markings came together through the generosity of Britmodeller members - speedy for the underwing serials, and someone else whose name I just canā€™t recover for the white stuff. They came from the old Echelon Hunter, and they all worked just right too. Finally, it was me who stuffed up the undercarriage.
    5 points
  47. Longer and longer breaks, because I'm tired of this project, and it's getting harder and harder for me to get back to work. Besides, the mushroom season in Poland is still going on šŸ˜„ I managed to finish the crane. I improved the look of the rope that moves the arm. I connected it with this (I have no idea what it is and where I got it from). I also made a hook. It took a bit of extra work as the hook is too light and doesn't tighten the rope. The slack rope looked bad so I had to add some weight. I made a chest for this. I used the same technique as when making a wooden deck. It is a piece of polystyrene with grooved edges of the boards and scratches that imitate the texture of the wood. First, the chest was supposed to hang on polystyrene ribbons but it was difficult to shape them properly. So I cut it off and made loops through which I put a thin sewing thread. In general chests are made of pine, so the boards are light. That's why I used Vallejo desert tan primer as the base color. Then I drybrushed it with Vallejo flat flesh and finished with brown Tamiya panel liner. The protruding parts of the models are prone to breaking off so I decided to mount a crane with magnets. This is how the crane looks finished. From a technical point of view, it is a construction that makes no sense but it looks good šŸ¤£ Decal with a warning in Polish (typical for cranes that it is forbidden to stay within the crane's reach). I hope you like it as much as I do. W.
    5 points
  48. Finally getting going with some interior decorating.
    5 points
×
×
  • Create New...