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Showing content with the highest reputation on 22/12/21 in all areas

  1. I built this back in the late 80s after seeing it the Fairford airshow in 1985 using the Italeri kit and Modeldecal markings. Fast forward many years, the paintwork had suffered and the the wing was cracked following a short flight so I decided to rebuild it using the Xtradecal markings. The original Modeldecal markings came with a 50th anniversary sticker which I managed to find again Thanks for looking. Steve
    31 points
  2. Hi All and seasons greetings. Here is my latest completed model: Zvezda kit with 26Decals and Druz144 resin early RB211 engines. Merry Christmas šŸŽ…
    26 points
  3. Greetings, Before the new year comes, thought I complete this English Electric Canberra B(I)8 in Indian Air Force markings, I filled up some panels line and rescribed again. The kit decals were almost useless it was stiff and cracking. painted using Tamiya paints. Always wanted to have to a Canberra in collections now finally have a one. Thank you for watching and Happy new year, cheers.
    24 points
  4. Hi All, Another new model from myself. This time that is the great collab product of Sir Frank Whittle and Gloster Aircraft which was destined to became the greatfather of all the British jet aircraft and with its centrifugal compressor engine heavily influenced aircraft industry across the world. The recently issued Clear Prop kit is a little marvel of injection kit industry. It's extremely well detailed out of the box, supplemented with some photoetch details for intake and undercarriage, The only my addition was a photoetch fret from Clear Prop too which helped to produce even more detailed cockpit and add some minor details into undercarriage bays. Despite kit's molding perfection - construction was not the simplest though as the fit is great but supertight. As soon as you miss fit by a fraction of a millimeter here and there - you start to accumulate gaps ending in not really well closing fuselage or wing not fitting well. Nevertheless after some careful dryfitting I think I was able to pull everything together in a nice way. The only handcrafted additions were the pitot tube from brass tube and metal wire and wire antenna from fishing line. Decals are from the kit. There are 4 options to model any of the two airframes: W4041 in three schemes as well as W4046. Decals worked perfectly. Very thin but at the same time very strong. Good adhesiveness. Not a lot of them but great quality helped to get the decals job done literally within an hour. Model was painted with Tamiya acrylics XF-81 and XF-82 for upper surfaces and Hobby Color H329 for yellow. Panel lines are highlighted with a pencil. Some weathering added to flaps and undersides. Finished with Tamiya satin clear. Lastly, here is a size comparison photo with Gloster Meteor: Feel the difference! And of course photoes of my collection of aircraft powered by centrifugal compressor engines. Kind of the the Father and the Sons: Hope you like this topic! Merry Christmas šŸŽ… and Happy Holidays to everyone! Kind regards, Dennis
    23 points
  5. This started as the RugRatResins Viscount 700 and the fuselage had to be shortened in the wing root area and the wingspan reduced at the wing root. I made a master for the engine nacelles and vacformed the left and right halves. New main undercarriage was scratchbuilt and consists of two legs either side of each jetpipe. Painted with Alclad and dulled down a bit with a clear coat, the decals were drawn in CorelDraw and printed at home. 9 Thanks for looking. Steve
    22 points
  6. I built this from the old RugRatResins HS Andover kit and finished it with home made decals for an ETPS aircraft in the high-visibility Raspberry Ripple scheme. The nose boom was scratchbuilt from brass rod and getting the angles and lengths right took some working out. Thanks for looking. Steve
    22 points
  7. A Holger Dansk for the 21st century...a protector for Denmark! This was built as part of the Nordic GB, with some great models being built over there. This was the Academy kit, with Hataka Blue line Have Glass paint (Tamiya Xf77 for the counter shade of grey) and Lima November decals to make L-001, the first Danish F-35 currently based at Luke AFB in the US. A very good kit; perhaps just pipped by the Hasegawa kit (although you do get weapons bay in the academy kit and weapons) it is also much much cheaper, so will probably stick with this kit for future projects. Getting a good feeling of hygge with this...it just went right, if you know what I mean!
    21 points
  8. Instantly recognisable as a member of the MiG-21 family, the Ye-166 was a fictitious designation for the Ye-152-1 in order to register the speed records without disclosing the real designation. I've built a few MiG-21s but this seemed more like 1/48 than 1/72 and was a lot bigger than I expected. Built straight from the box but care is needed to work out the exact configuration to be modelled as there are a few options and the instructions are a bit confused/confusing. With the Ye-50 to show the size difference Thanks for looking. Steve
    19 points
  9. Built straight from the box, a nice quick, easy model. Thanks for looking. Steve
    18 points
  10. All in the name of practice and learning more about this hobby - This is kit number four to be completed; as kit number three is awaiting a canopy. Again a simple kit put together with the idea of having some fun and grounding my airbrushing technique. Sorry if the kit is not really anything to write home about and probably lacks build skill. I seem to be doing alright until it comes to putting the two fuselage parts together and then the fun starts. Its either that are the wings are not seating properly. Its something I am working on. I have now bought myself a few small files, a quantity of sanding implements and a razor saw blade; so hopefully improvements will happen over time. Anyway, back to the finished build. I am thinking it might not be up to the usual high skill that appears in this section but Iam not really going for large construction; at the moment. I think my idea at the moment is, instead of one big win I am going for several little wins. No major build problems and I enjoyed hand painting the canopy. No problems with the painting and decals went on pretty easy with no issues.
    18 points
  11. Aldi special Airfix kit bought December 2020, finally got to the top of the pile. Nothing special about it really, but there were (as ever!) some learnings along the way. Firstly, you can use methylated spirits to remove acrylic paint. I initially attempted to brush paint the red over a white Tamiya primer, it became clear after the second coat that was going to be a long and arduous road so decided to get a rattle can instead. Don't ask why that wasn't my first port of call! Before spraying, though, I wanted to get rid of what I'd painted. Tried Mr Muscle oven cleaner but that didn't touch it - but a Ā£2 bottle of meths from Screwfix did the job perfectly. I now have a can of Mr Muscle that I have no idea what to do with - I won't be asking the good lady wife for advice šŸ¤£ The finish from the rattle can of Humbrol 19 is lovely, the red is so deep and vibrant, if I was trying to do that with a brush I'd probably still be at it! One small issue I did have was that the white primer showed up on the edges of the red when I removed the masking from the canopy. Not great as its really obvious given the contrast with the red. Not entirely sure how that happened. Also - the recommended 2.5g of nose weight is not quite enough (or, my scales are rubbish!). She's ever so slightly tail heavy so I need a small blob of blu tack under the nosewheel. Thought about trying to get some blu tack inside the cockpit but there's not enough room, and it'd probably look rubbish. Lesson there - fill the nose with as much as you can! I was a bit worried about the red background on the Central Flying School titles not matching the paint, but I don't think its meant to. Saw at least one picture online where it didn't. Really happy with the glossy finish from the Pledge as well - looks the biz. I've chosen not to weather her - she's a display bird so going to assume she was kept in top notch condition. Anyway - on with the pics. Next up is, I think, a Sword Gannet AEW.3. Feel like that's going to be an entirely different kettle of fish! Al.
    18 points
  12. Hello All, My eighth and final completion for 2021 is Airfix's 1/48 Spitfire PR.19. Not the best kit, with some significant fit issues, poor quality moulding and rather over-emphasised panel lines, but pretty accurate by all accounts and a model of a great looking aircraft. My only additions were the whip aerial and the Rebecca Mk.II landing aid under the rear fuselage missed by Airfix. The scheme is from an Xtradecals sheet, but the serials are not quite right so in the end I only used the roundels, squadron crests and zeroes on the underwing serials. The tail flashes and prop stencils are from the kit and the serials are masked and airbrushed (the misalignment is intentional and somewhat neater than the real thing was). PRU Blue is from MRP and Medium Sea Grey from Mr Color. I've written a bit more about building the kit here: https://jonbryon.com/airfix-1-48-supermarine-spitfire-pr-19/ Comments very welcome Jon
    18 points
  13. Following the success of the Hunter, Hawker designed the supersonic P1121 which was substantially larger. The first aircraft was under construction when the project was cancelled but the forward fuselage has survived and is in storage at RAF Cosford. Despite the size the kit was easy to build and I finished it in a pale green scheme similar to the Hunter prototype. Thanks for looking. Steve
    17 points
  14. Back in the mists of time, on a 4 month RAF detachment to Turkey, I took some occupational therapy - a wooden boat kit 'Le Hussard' Having finished that in good time I started the more ambitious HMS Unicorn. By the time I came back I'd pretty much finished the hull, but did little more for the next 20 years, and it was consigned to the shelf of doom ( back of garage actually ) Finally dragged it out a few months ago and finished it off in my spare time after work - masting and rigging. ( in my office whilst waiting for my daughter to finish after work clubs / get picked up ) 84cm long and 79 high First image in a tent, in Turkey
    16 points
  15. This is 1/32 Hasegawa P-40N Warhawk with the markings of 'Geronimo' 45th Fighter Squadron on Nanumea Airfield, Ellice Islands, Dec 1943. Modifications are; Eduard instrument panel and seat belts Eduard exhausts Paints : Gunze Sangyo and Tamiya acrylics. Customized Nose art is from CustomHobby Decals (www. customhobbydecals.com) Happy Modelling
    16 points
  16. This started out as a battered travel agent display model in SABENA markings with a few broken parts and very scratched. Not a kit but a fibreglass model probably by Space Models. After repairs and a couple of coats of gloss white I drew the Jersey European markings in CorelDraw and printed them on my inkjet printer. ] Thanks for looking. Steve
    16 points
  17. A kit bought around 1999 from Wonderland, at SMW. One of their end of line, price reductions. Build 2021, concurrently with a more recent Academy equivalent. The same kit with few changes. One difference that this kit has decals for the vortex generators on the wings.
    15 points
  18. Designed as a supersonic Hunter follow-on fighter with a more highly swept wing and an afterburning Avon engine, the P1083 was never flown. It was cancelled due to defence cuts following the end of the Korean war and because the English Electric P1 (Lightning) showed much promise. Basically it's the Airfix Hunter F6 fuselage with the Project-X vacform wings and tail fairing. Finished with home made decals. With the P1067 Hunter prototype to show the different wing sweep. Thanks for looking. Steve
    14 points
  19. Dear fellow Britmodellers, here's my 1/72 Dragon T-34/85. Painted with Mr.Hobby acrylics, photographed by Wolfgang Rabel. I added OKB Grigorov resin tracks and wheels and Golikov Project resin turret. Towing cable from Eureka. Decals from Kagero. Weathered with artist oils and real mud, mixed with white glue and pigments. Thanks for your interest. Roman
    14 points
  20. I've built four Cromwells/Centaurs so far in 1/35th scale, all of them based on the very good Tamiya kit, so when Airfix brought their version out, I wanted to see how it stacked up against the competition, even though I was aware of it's short comings. Most of you will know what the problems are with the Airfix offering, but I'll briefly run them through again. First and foremost was the cockup that they made with the number of wheel nuts on the road wheels, six instead of eight. On the shell casing ejection ports on each side of the turret, they missed off the four prominent nuts. The third is the same one made by Tamiya, and that is that they included a ā€œCā€ engine deck when the markings are supposed to be for vehicles equipped with ā€œDā€ or ā€œEā€ decks. None of this is too big a problem as I picked up a set of resin replacement wheels by Sovereign 2000 at Telford. I've got a spare Tamiya turret to get around the missing nut problem, and for the engine deck I'll alter the panel lines to make it into a D/E/F deck. A few years ago, I built a 1/48th scale Mk.Vl using the Tamiya kit, and the vehicle which I depicted was one with the name of ā€œBrumoviceā€œ, belonging to the Czech Independent Armoured Brigade. It was finished in SCC15 and with black disruptive pattern. When I looked through my decal stash, lo and behold, I have the SKP rub down decal set for this tank, so decision made. I'm going to use some ā€œartistic licenceā€ with this build. As far as I know, the only photos that exist of ā€œBrumoviceā€ are all three quarter frontal ones, so hopefully, nobody will be able to dispute what I will do with this tank. I have some photos of Czech Cromwells showing stowage bins commonly seen on Fireflys, welded to the rear of a Cromwell's hull, and another with a Crusader style blanket box, welded to the back of the turret, so that's the route that I will take. I'm not going to go through all of the stages of photos of the kit's sprues as Mike covered all of that in the new AFV kit review. This won't be one of those builds where the first page shows the start of the build and then before you know it, on page two, the paint and decals are going on. Given my glacial speed of building, this will take several weeks, but my aim is to have it completed in time for the M4 GB to start. So without further ado, onto the build. The first job was the hull tub. Here, IMO, Airfix have scored some points as they have made it from five parts, as opposed to the one piece Tamiya hull. The locating notches are very well thought out and you have two bulkheads, which all means that you end up with vertical sides. At the rear of each side, they have included the filler for the final drive hydraulics. I punched out a couple of hexagonal pieces and glued them to the tops for the filler caps. Something else that Airfix have included that Tamiya missed, just right of centre on the rear hull plate, is the inspection hatch for the control rods, and another bonus is the electrical cabling for the smoke emitters. The assembly for the road wheel swinging arms, is practically identical to Tamiya's arrangement. I wanted to allow the second and third road wheels to be displaced, so the stubs for these were sliced off. And once done, this is what I ended up with, once the outer plates of the lower hull were in place. I'm possibly going to use the rubber band tracks that come with the kit, rather than the link and length as I think they have a slightly better appearance, and don't have as many ejection pin marks to remove. But there again, if I'm not happy with how they look, I'll pick up a set of Fruils. That's it for this session. I'll b back with more, once my hobby room has warmed up a bit (a BIG bit. It was 5 degrees when I went out there today!) John.
    13 points
  21. Built straight from the box as a quick build after a couple of more challenging models. Thanks for looking. Steve
    13 points
  22. This is Revell's 1/32nd scale Opel GT snap-together kit, a new release in 1970. The kit reflects the moulds age with serious mould lines down the sides, andd a major step in the right front wing which needed filling as well, and it has few parts as it is a snap-together. It's a kerb-side with no real engine sump detail underneath so the underside is just painted matt black and left as-is. Let's be honest, unless you're a mechanic or do your own vehicle maintenance you never really look under a car anyway so I have treated the kit the same! It is a representation of the GT-J model, hence the black trim and the simple 'GT' on the wings. The GT-J wheels are more basic as well, but I have used the kit wheels in the style of the GT-J wheels. The front spotlights are just painted as they are moulded with the front grille and bumper, and I am pleasantly surprised how well they turned out. Scratch bits - Gear shift lever and handbrake; neither are provided in the kit. Registration plates. Aerial from a paint brush bristle and a couple of scap bits for the base. Exhausts from brass tube. Extras - Bullet wing-mirrors, reversing light and registration plate numbers and letter decals from Moto-Bitz (brilliant supplier). Paint - Zero Paints Bright Red ZP-1003 and 2-Pack Diamond Finish Clearcoat. Black paints of various shades from Mr Color. Chrome - Moltow pen for the wheel chrome and the door handles, Bare Metal Foil for the window trim and and the exhausts. This was built for a chap I used to work with who owns a real one, and he doesn't know I have built this for him so I hope he likes it when I drop it over to him.
    13 points
  23. Designed for vertical take-off using four lift engines in the centre fuselage, the SC1 originally flew with just the single propulsion engine to check the airframe first. A very small model so saves some display space! Painted with Alclad and finished with home printed decals. With the later version fitted with the lift engines. Thanks for looking. Steve
    13 points
  24. Living in Birmingham I see the West Midlands Air Ambulances frequently and have a huge amount of respect for the work they do. This is the Revell EC135 with the Whirlybirds resin Air Ambulance interior and decals for G-OMAA, one of the three helicopters currently in use and normally based at the Strensham motorway services on the M5 but often seen across the entire Midlands region. https://www.midlandsairambulance.com Thanks for looking. Steve
    12 points
  25. The recent contrast between utterly still night fogs: - and days where the clouds run so fast it's like timelapse: - have given an uncanny air in the run up to Christmas. Thank goodness building a Vixen for the second time gives something familiar to anchor yourself to! Because we're all obsessed beyond the possibility of redemption Bill! Thanks Alan. That's interesting about the resin production. In watching reviews of different brands of gloop I struggled(at least in terms of the level of detail video can show) to see any dramatic differences demonstrated in the outputs shown, ven allowing for the fact that you're not getting what the eyeball shows in real life, especially when the footage had been ground down by the level of compression involved in places like Yootoob. I wish resin manufacturers would do test pots in the same way that paint manufacturers do to let you try colours on your wall before committing. Like yourself, the Elegoo stuff gives me consistent results so with the current printers I'm using though, so I doubt switching resin brands would let me squeeze any higher quality out of the current combination of gear. Reckon I'll be investing in their tramsparent stuff next year then at some point: šŸ‘ There's a reassuring scope at this scale to mix and match techniques according to their facility. I've been poring over the Wasp manual and it contains some excellent visual breakdowns of the cockpit structures, ones that should help devise a decent design strategy. For the window rubbers and tyres I've been pondering an attack of the Wanhaos... https://wanhao.store/products/3d-printing-resin-rubber-resin-1000ml-bottle I don't know why people take against the Salvation Army so. The burgundy sunstrip atop the windscreen and twin deployable tambourines will make this a stunner! If sadism is you're thing Giorgio.... You were my muse in that department Steve. šŸ˜ We-ll, so long as there's no sudden noises... https://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-style/health-family/farting-barrister-loses-harassment-claim-against-colleague-who-asked-him-to-stop-1.4761959 Moving on then from such quality content, there's been cleaning up and sticking of parts happening in the last days or two. The first task needing attention was the area of differential shrinkage on the belly of the aircraft due to the front firewall: This is a hazard of resin printing whenever you have parts with thin walls that intersect with thicker sections perpendicularly, but one easily solved by adding a little filler (or in my case, simply using a little resin dribbled on with a cocktail stick and cured with the laser) along the discontinuity, and subsequently planing/sanding flush. You can also make out in the last photo the ghosts of some of the inevitable striations which you get on a part such as this with a complex series of curves that make it impossible to find an ideal orientation during printing. When you first start out printing and see such unavoidable artefacts, you wince a bit but then find out that these imperfections are rapidly banished with some 600 grit W&D, as you see in progress above. About 20 minutes' work and all is smooth: Then it was time to stick the inboard wing sections on. For added strength the two locating lugs each side got a blob of Araldite and then the wings tacked into place with resin. This lets you wiggle them around in order to ensure that positioning in all three axes correct before a final bonding line of liquid resin is added and cured along the seam top: and bottom: I'll leave that to sit overnight for the Araldite to harden and the plane the excess resin flush along those seams tomorrow. Dihedral check: Whilst this view is up it's worth pausing to mention the obvious fact that this aircraft will be a tail-sitter so that cavity between the intake ducts has been left vacant for weight to be added (it not being possible to add it any further forward due to the combination of cockpit detail and radar installation). In my case though you probably noticed the brass rods sticking out of the wheels in previous shots: those are there to let me fix the aircraft to a base instead - as suggested a while back by @keefr22. The other major alignment that needed test-fitting is that between the wing trailing edge and the tail booms, to ensure that there's no twist or slope in any of the verticals/horizontals: That all looked fine when viewed from the front and side; you can see also that I've learned from the last Vixen to keep the print supports in place this time around, preventing damage to the trailing edges of that section. Not for the first time with these Vixens I've had to make a custom tool to help with tidying up some of the less accessible areas: On this occasion I split an Xacto blade down the middle to make a mini-plane that would allow me get into the nooks and crannies around the wingfold mechanism where there was some residual striation along the rib that needed stroking flat Job done: Next tasks then will be to clear up those wing seams and then have a look at detailing the main undercarriage bays. Have a nice evening, Tony
    12 points
  26. Hiya Folks,..... got stuck into this last night and today,..... here is my progress,....... what a lovely kit it is to build; So I painted the interior parts on the sprue; Then began construction,.... with the cockpit and the radiator,.... also at this stage you need to decide which tailplane you want,.... the early one or the later one with the fin strake,..... as for the latter you need to remove a section of the rear upper fuselage, seen here marked with black lines. Also seen are the bulkheads for the wheel wells, which were finished in Zinc Chromate rather than the natural metal elsewhere;; The decals for the interior are very good,.... but my eyes struggled,.... must get a magnifier!! The etched harness is nice too,.... you get two options and also two optional seats; I had also been building the wings alongside the interior,.... as you`ve probably noticed,..... well here they are alongside the fuselage now that it has been joined; Here you can see the cutout for the fin strake, which was cut out earlier; And finally for today,.... the wings and tailplane have been added,.. all basically clicking into position,..... I am very impressed with this kit indeed; Cheers for now, Tony
    12 points
  27. Built this for a commision. The welly was the one his great uncle flew in. Custom cut roundels and markings via a cricut. Really enjoyed it and used MIG shaders for the 1st time.
    10 points
  28. Hello colleagues; another quiet year for me I'm afraid, in fact my quietest yet I think... however all the completions this year were, in one way or another, big. I started the year with what was really the last kit of last year but it did get over the line in February this year: the Trumpeter FW200C-3 Condor in 1/72: No build thread for this one, but the RFI with some other pictures is here. The second and third completions were more-or-less the same kit: ICM's Gloster Gladiator and Gloster Sea Gladiator in 1/32: The Gladiator: The Sea Gladiator: Build thread for both is here. RFI for the Gladiator is here. RFI for the Sea Gladiator is here. My final completion for the year was the ICM Fiat CR.42 Falco in 1/32: Build thread is here. RFI is here. Sadly since then my mojo has fallen off a cliff and shows no sign of clambering back up. Thanks for your attention, Cheers, Stew
    10 points
  29. Inspired by the German WW2 Bachem Natter, the Fairey Delta was originally designed to take off vertically from a ramp as an interceptor. This idea was quite sensibly dropped and it was used for delta wing research and was the first British delta. A nice simple vacform with a few metal parts for the undercarriage. Painted with Alclad and finished with home made decals. Thanks for looking. Steve
    10 points
  30. This is Hasegawa's 1/72 Douglas EKA-3B Skywarrior. The EKA-3B was a multi-use aircraft that performed both in air refueling and radar tracking and jamming functions. The basic kit is from 1997 reboxed in 2008 with additional parts added for the EKA-3B version. Like many aircraft of its time period the slats were controlled by aerodynamic forces not hydraulics or mechanical actuators, so they would always be dropped on the ground. I wanted to drop them on and while I don't usually build kits with folded wings, but because they were available, had separate droppable slats, and to save shelf space I used a set of Folding wings from Wolfpack. I also used an interior from Obscureco, and and PrintScale decals. The kit was typical '90 Hasegawa with generally good fit and a somewhat simplistic interior. Obscureco makes a resin interior (OBS72023) that includes parts for several A-3 versions, including the EKA-3B. The interior was a pretty much drop in fit, had nice details and included very nice seats. I used it in conjunction with the kit control panel decals where possible. The Wolfpack wings were not as drop in as their F-18 wings were that I have used in the past. They required removing the upper wing halves from the kit one piece upper wing. The cuts were along panel lines were easy to make, and once done only requires a little sanding to fit them in. Here is a picture of them attached. The kit decals were not usable. In addition to "foxing" on the paper, even the control panel ones I tried to use mostly disintegrated even with a coat of Microfilm. After my previous success in taming PrintScale decals with Microfilm I ordered their 72-109 sheet confident that I would succeed again. However this time it was an epic fail with the decals curling up and refusing to stick or lay down even with copious amounts of Solvaset. So I frantically searched through my pile of used decals for something that would work only to find that I had another partial copy of the same sheet that I had used on a previous A-3 build, and that had all the EKA-3B markings intact. I tried these and they actually worked like normal decals should without the usual sticking like glue to the first position they touched and no rolling into a ball when moved. So here it is: Next up will be my attempt to build a Leonardo TH-73A using the Revell A-109 kit and parts from a die cast Agusta A119 . Wish me luck. Enjoy
    10 points
  31. I started this many years ago and for some reason it never got finished until now. At the time the Pegasus short-run kit of the Swift was readily available so I converted one into the Supermarine 535 which was basically a swept wing Attacker, even keeping the tailwheel. Although it looks similar to the Swift I had to modify the wing, nose, intakes, jetpipe, fin and tailplanes. For many people this aircraft is best known for it's starring role as "Prometheus" in the film "The Sound Barrier" which features some stunning air to air footage and some rather wooden acting! Well worth watching though. Painted with Alclad and finished with home printed decals. Thanks for looking. Steve
    10 points
  32. Finally approaching the finish line now First...a reminder of what I was aiming for...you will note a couple more small items (circled in red) that I had to scratch..... Along with those two extras I have also included a box of spark plugs and relevant t spanner and ring spanner..... Then...using the above ref pic...time to start laying all the bits and pieces out within the scene...the jack/axle stands and wheel brace are the only pieces not glued in place. Whilst not completely true to the original...I have tried to capture the atmosphere and essence of the scene..... All that remains to be done now are a mechanic and Niki himself...along with his crash helmet (which will be perched on top of the rear wing)...then it will be a case of adding them and the car plus the main cockpit shroud/air scoop (standing on the earlier made pallet). Ron to be continued in 2022............
    10 points
  33. Airfix Spitfire F22 PK624 RAF Northolt 1969. Painted with mix of XA and Humbrol and Vallejo paints finished with Windsor and Newton Matt
    10 points
  34. A build request from a fellow volunteer at Jet Age, could you build this as the Upper Heyford option? Sure can - and built concurrently with its Hobbycraft equivalent. One difference that this kit has raised vortex generators on the wings.
    9 points
  35. Hereā€™s my interpretation of the Boulton Paul Defiant Mk. I, N1801, ā€œCoimbatore IIā€, from No.264 Squadron, Royal Air Force Duxford, flown by Flying Officer F. D. Hughes and Sergeant F. Gash (gunner). This is another excellent 1/48 kit by Airfix, built entirely out of the box, with a few exceptions; I added a pilot (no gunner, Iā€™m afraid) and antenna wire, plus applied riveting to the surface to liven up the monochrome night fighter scheme. I also used Montex masks so I could weather the roundels, squadron codes etc.: they were good for this job but horrible for transparencies, peeling away almost instantly. I wanted the challenge of painting entirely in shades of black, hoping I could create enough variety to make something visually satisfying. Many of the images I used as reference indicate the night black paint the RAF used would chip and fade dramatically, and I imagine the color shifts would be similarly dramatic. Not sure I made that as clear as I hoped, but it was fun to use every chipping technique I could think of to convey the beating these poor, doomed aircraft went through. I used Mission Model paints over a coat of Tamiya lacquer silver, layering greys up to Nato black (with additional colours), chipping through to the layer beneath each time. Although Airfix might not achieve the miraculous engineering of Tamiya or the erudite detailing of Eduard, each kit Iā€™ve built falls together with predictable ease and makes a satisfying canvas to paint on, which is where modeling comes alive for me. Thanks for your time!
    9 points
  36. Latest quickie. Straight OOB with aftermarket decals. Built in flight to save time. A super fitting older kit. Such a relief to just build for fun and not stress over every little detail. I hope you like her. Dan
    9 points
  37. Hello coleagues, let me present a short summer build this year. Well it should be short as the kit contains a few easy parts. But despite not many sources for Ida available, I realised the kit is too easy. The low detailed cockpit I leaved as it is OOB. I made a light in the wing from scratch. I reworked cowling with a gap on the sides as the circle shape follows with non-circled shape of the fuselage. (I think it is correct). I added some exhaust tubes on the cowling bottom and the bracket in front of shield. At the end I made a bit complicated pitot tube from scratch. On the finished kit I corrected the position lights into the right shape. Unfortunatelly I didnĀ“t manage the part with the canopy. The canopy fitting is poor and the frames are not smooth. For the other builds which I plan, I have to take care to this point. The colour is a mix of yellow-red tamiya acrylics according to my interpretation of some sources about japanese trainer yellow.
    9 points
  38. Designed to test the low speed characteristics of highly swept wings for Concorde, the HP115 was used for many years of research flying without any major changes and is now preserved at the FAA Museum Yeovilton next to the first British Concorde and the BAC221 used for high speed wing research. A very simple kit with no build issues and painted with Alclad. I added the smoke generators on the wing leading edges and printed my own decals. Thanks for looking. Steve
    8 points
  39. Hi ho - hereā€™s most likely my last completion for 2021 - the venerable Tamiya P-47. Had this in the stash for quite some time so great to finally knock it out. Itā€™s an old enough kit but still top notch. Added HGW seat belts and raised rivets - both of which worked out quite well. I used Eduardā€™s ā€œlookā€ instrument panel drop in which didnā€™t impress tbh. Very plastic looking in spite of my attempts to flatten it with clear coats. Used resin wheels from eduard also which were very nice. Painted with Alclad and mr color paints. Weathering done mostly with oils - some enamel washes used.
    8 points
  40. Despite the small size the Short SC1 had 5 engines, 4 to provide vertical lift and 1 for forward flight. Painted with Alclad and finished with home made decals. With the early single engine version. Thanks for looking. Steve
    8 points
  41. I built this about 15 years ago and if fought me all the way due to the very small contact surfaces for all the flying surfaces. Eventually it was finished and sitting on a shelf for a while before taking a short vertical flight which required a rebuild and repaint. When that was done it sat on the shelf for another couple of years before I noticed the fuselage had bulged and cracked due to a reaction between the lead nose weight and the PVA I'd used to hold it in place. Lesson learnt - don't do that again! This is how it looked...... No chance of getting another kit as it's long out of production, so back onto the workbench for another rebuild, repaint and new decals; Thanks for looking. Steve
    8 points
  42. Built straight from the box. Thanks for looking. Steve
    8 points
  43. Just for giggles, I pulled out my digital micrometers and measured the thickness of the vacuform for the rear turret. How does 0.002 inch grab you? I could feel that it was thin, but wasn't expecting that. Cellophane indeed. But...somehow I managed to attach it to the turret. Now I'm adding the framework with pre-painted strips of 0.005 inch styrene. Where is that Lilliputian when you need him? At the other end of the field, we have an ERCO ball turret: This framework was painted on. This is a big improvement over the bow turret that came with the kit. Let's see, that's three down (bow and two tops) and three to go. Of course, I left the hard ones for last. I've made some progress though. As I mentioned, the framework is being added to the tail turret (slowly) and the same can be said for the waist turrets. Remind me not to build this kit again. Cheers, Bill PS. OK, I admit that I binge-watched "The Beatles: Get Back" on Disney. All eight hours of it. A couple of observations - the boys seriously looked like they were having a LOT of fun, unlike the perception you get from the "Let It Be' film. There was a lot of chit-chat that could have been deleted which would have reduced the running time a bit. If I ever hear "Don't Let Me Down' and "I've Got A Feeling" again, I may go raving mad. How many takes of those songs were really necessary to include? Let's see, what else - oh yeah, personal hygiene. John should have washed his hair more often and clean his fingernails. Paul should stop biting his. PPS. George was a genius and Billy Preston was God.
    8 points
  44. A few this year in a smaller scale for me, all 1:50 and based on corgi models 2 Foden S21 tippers with Tarmac Truck Models decals Next a pair of local ERF tippers, again modified corgi models with custom decals Corgi Bedford OB, knew the real bus well and it was still on fare stage work until a few years ago Horice Kendricks classic, scratch built body and Tarmac models decals lastly another Walsall company, corgi model with custom decals
    7 points
  45. You have finished your latest model, and you're well chuffed with the result. You have painted, masked, polished, screwed your eyes up to paint the details and give yourself a concentrations headache or ten along the way. You have cleaned and polished, given your all. Now comes the time to share your pleasure with like minded modellers, so the infinity background is set up and the camera settings duly adjusted. You take your photos, lots of them at slightly different settings to get the ones that are 'just right' and do your model as much justice as the camera ever allows. You come to edit and post the photos and.... WHAT!!!!! It's a flippin' cat hair! Cats, and their fur. They take over. Out you go to take the photos all over again...
    7 points
  46. Straight from the box. Thanks for looking. Steve
    7 points
  47. One of the early MiG-21 configurations to determine the best wing shape and powerplant. The A&A kit is typical of the current eastern European manufacturers with more parts than necessary but producing interesting subjects. Fit of parts was pretty good with a bit of filler required but not too bad. Built straight from the box and painted with Halfords Nissan Silver. Thanks for looking. Steve
    7 points
  48. Well it seems like you rabble have been good wee little modellers this yearā€¦ā€¦ well some of you!! šŸ˜† so no lumps of coal this year, instead Santa has given you a very nice pressie, an extension!!!! No not to make you talker or longerā€¦.šŸ˜ but a build extension until the 9th January!!! so no excuse now for not finishing those builds, else it wonā€™t be a lump of coal next time!!!!
    7 points
  49. End users are advised to follow at their own risk - original poster may be making all this up as he goes along, and bears no responsibility for leading others astray Well, macro photos can be so disturbing, can't they. When I was posting the previous images, I realised how scruffy some of it looked, particularly the shroud over the centre console and those two grab handles on the left screen. Last night I decided to remove and redo those bits. I needed to cut the left hand throttle lever off anyway, and would probably have knocked the grab handles off in the process. I also needed to reposition the holo emitter, and that was easier with those other bits removed too. The new shroud is made from a strip of copper foil and looks a bit more like the one in the filming set photos. There's also an angular handle-like thing on the bottom edge of the centre console and I've added that with bits of chopped up styrene. The shaft for the 'gear stick' lever on the right has been added from stretched sprue, but I still need to find something suitable for the ball on the end. The holo emitter has been moved further to the left above the side screen, and I've used styrene rod rather than brass tube this time. The cable and short pipe thingies have been added to the tops of the side consoles, along with the row of red lights. I've also made up the control sticks from scrap styrene and a couple of 1/35 machine gun grips for the joysticks - a bit over scale, and not quite the right shape, but close enough for what you'll see through the glazing. The right-hand one is sitting at a slightly steeper angle which is a bit annoying, but I don't really feel like snapping it off and re-setting it, so I'll just live with that. The throttle lever has been rebuilt on the left-hand side console, and I should really add another to the right side, along with two other levers, but there really isn't space for it all. I suspect the filming set is considerably wider than the actual cockpit space would be on the real ship, and Revell have had to compress the dimensions somewhat to fit everything in. Centre console with angular handle on bottom edge At the back of the right-hand side console I've add the droid connection port that Zero (Q9-0) plugs into during the prison heist episode. That was just a bit of random photo etch that happened to be about the right size. Zero plugging into the droid port, which rather embarrassingly is clearly a human hand in a glove There are still a few things to add, although it's not worth going crazy as you won't see a lot of it, even if it was lit, which it definitely won't be. Andy
    7 points
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