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Showing content with the highest reputation on 29/11/21 in all areas

  1. Dear fellow Britmodellers, here's my 1/72 Special Hobby A-20 Boston with Red Stars. The model was painted with Mr.Hobby acrylics. Photographs by Wolfgang Rabel. Thanks to @Kjetil Åkra, @dogsbody, @DLinevitch for their help in research. This kit was first released in 2007 under the MPM brand. Special Hobby added specific parts for the VVS Version with UTK turret (plastic, resin and etch). Unfortunately the turret transparencies are not as clear as the cockpit glazing, and they don't fit well. The oversized defense gun was replaced with a metal item from Mini World. I scratch-built the life raft in the cockpit with paper tissue. The bomb bay was cut open and loaded with Soviet bombs (from a Tamiya Il-2). Photo-etch from Eduard. Previous owner's markings (RAF?) overpainted. This was a pretty challenging build with poor fit throughout. I'd only recommed this kit to seasoned and very patient modellers. Thank you for your interest, best greetings from Vienna! Roman
    29 points
  2. And here it is...Result of few weeks of hard work... Resin 1/32 DH.90 Dragonfly from Lukgraph. Great set, has some minor problems but everything is quite easy to correct. PM me if you'll ever need help with it. About dirtyness of model... I know that real DH.90 G-AEDU is perfectly clean. To be fair,I had to sand a lot from topside of model (because of my own mistake) so I had to cheat with painting, I mean to make it look more 3D. Then I had to unify overall look so, yes, It looks worn and dirty. And yes, I'd overdone it
    27 points
  3. Hi folks, this my recent build of the Eduard kit, i.e. reboxed Revell kit with some accessories. While the etched and resin stuff is great, the Revell molds seems to remember the WII and these were of poor quality indeed with many scratches, flash etc., not speaking about triste state of the cleat parts. Therefore my enthusiasm quickly evaporated and I was glad I eventually found enough determination to get the kit off my table. Kit built OOB, only the AIM-9L were replaced with Reskit items, the RBF are Eduard etched and the "FODs" were glued from a paper tissue. Cheers Libor
    26 points
  4. Spitfire Mk IX FY-F flown by Sqdn Ldr Hugo Armstrong DFC & Bar http://www.aircrewremembered.com/armstrong-hugo.htm Finished this a couple of days ago but have been waiting for the rain to stop, to take it outside to photograph. Must get myself a photo booth sometime 🙂. Made as per box with some homemade seatbelts and a pilot figure from PJ Productions. Painted with Tamiya acrylics. Early days for me so critiques welcome.
    26 points
  5. Yes, this is what happens when a Lancaster and a Lysander decide to have kids.... The Westland Wendover. This is at its heart a Hawk 1/48 Lysander mated with an aftermarket resin conversion. Other additions, Eduard Lysander P/E set, Quickboost Exhaust, and and various 3D printed parts I created for extra detail, sometimes multiple times But overall it was a cool learning experience. The WIP can be found here: Thanks for stopping by and all comments , suggestions and bad puns are always welcome!
    23 points
  6. Good morning, happy modellers. I want to show you that I don't just do 1/72nd dioramas; Here is a 1/48 B26 Marauder that I built recently. This B26 may look very clean, but they were all brand new at first, isn't it right? I may have been influenced by the state of cleanliness of the one presented on display at the Landing Museum in Utah Beach, France. What more have I done on this model? I just engraved the panels lines, rectified the diameter of the engine cowlings, detailed the lower machine gun bays, one of which is open. This model thus enriches my collection of twin engines used by the allies on June 6, 1944: I really enjoy building the Monogram models! I hope you enjoy. Regards, Eric-Snafu35
    20 points
  7. At this rate I’m gonna have to declare this bloomin’ thing built soon. Fancy that - I might get to do an RFI! That’s if Spittie survives….I managed to sort of half drop it earlier on and break off the port leg and starboard leg-door. Luckily that was the only damage… Somehow the newly fixed pitot survived and there were no paint chips or scratches. A bit of drilling and then pinning with thickish fuse wire for reinforcement and to help pose the leg at the correct angle - and she’s fixed. Plus added the downward signalling light. Painted the inside of the clear lens with Tamiya clear red. Which is actually not a bad match based on some photo’s I took of the IWM Mk 1a - although them photo's might be a bit dodgy on the colour balance and I think actually the lens should be a bit more of an amber colour . (don't tell anyone). Top signalling light and radio aerial fitted. The light looked quite toy like on the sprue ands when dry fitted so I micromeshed it to a duller finish and to make it a little opaque. I’m pretty sure that exposure to the elements would have done similar for real I read somewhere that sometimes the top signalling light was overpainted in black or blue - but I wasn't sure enough of the facts to do that here. Nav lights built up with some Gator’s Grip. The tail light cover is a bit pointy for real and so another little blob of Gator’s Grip will be needed here. It dries clear (obvs.) so whilst the tail light lens can stay clear, the wing lights will need to be painted red/green. Lightish and shortish exhaust staining. The theory here is that they were trying to keep her clean remember Used Tamiya weathering powders again - soot, oil stain and rusty brown, I haven't added a whitish stripe to it as by my study of old photo's that only seems to be noticeable on the more extrensively stained aircraft. Finally fitted the cockpit door. It's a lovely moulding and even has little piano hinges that stick out slighty and could be hooked over the framing to help location. Tried it with and without the crow bar and decided it looked better without - as more of the door structure was visible. The port side exhaust staining is also done. And now I think all that’s left to do is: IFF aerials from stretched sprue (I've drilled the location holes through the stars on the fuselage sides). Fix the rear view mirror. Paint the wing nav lights Fit the prop Fit the sliding canopy section - which is a bit of a tight fit and stands too high and proud. Got a plan how to deal with that - I think. Cripes - that's it. Not much of the to-do list left.
    18 points
  8. I had this kit for a long long time. So on building I went. I have used the Aires cockpit and used a mixed of it and kit's parts to keep calm! Master barrels were used for all the 50 caliber MGs and Res kit wheels replaced the kit's ones. I thought the "Dirty Dora" was a striking deco and Accurate Miniature provides vinyl masks for that! But after all those years they were sticky no more. I went ahead but when I gave a try on the cowlings, using the kit's decals they explode despite the use of Micro decals! So everything was done with patience and white decals bands! Then one of the fishing weight I had used in the nose, went loose and decided to sit on the pilot seat! Thanks Lord the canopy was glued with white glue and I removed it, fixed the trouble and went ahead! Now it is done but what a struggle. My apologies for the pictures but I am not equipped to picture such a large plane. Those strafers B-25 were so much hated by te Japanese that most of the surviving shot down crews were beheaded on the slope of the Mother Volcano in Rabaul. best regards. 22557412-46BA-4D66-A727-36B5C0201F54_1_201_a by jean Barby, sur Flickr 59FEEDBC-A8FA-4552-A19F-B322F06F2FC0_1_201_a by jean Barby, sur Flickr 627C118A-ADD7-4A30-BD6C-C2585F47B5A5_1_201_a by jean Barby, sur Flickr 6C791345-CB6F-4974-94B8-78FFE3D85179_1_201_a by jean Barby, sur Flickr C0759819-7397-44EA-A9E9-B2A17B609808_1_201_a by jean Barby, sur Flickr 58473202-5319-4A92-80AB-6EB847624D51_1_201_a by jean Barby, sur Flickr A2C06068-9E70-41A4-B70B-8A8C63137DCB_1_201_a by jean Barby, sur Flickr F9DB8C4C-3F48-41B9-98F0-4D1E99B9AE5F_1_201_a by jean Barby, sur Flickr
    17 points
  9. I still absolutely suck at weathering, what can I say?
    17 points
  10. I built this one in a record time.Under a week.I wanted something relaxing after the resin c-140 I built a while ago.I only added the seatbelts and a gunsight.The rest is OOB including the academy decals.I used gunze paints and the varnishes are from ak and vallejo.Enjoy the photos
    16 points
  11. Taken a while to do this ...based on the Tamiya late Tiger 1 with lots and lots of extra detailing and work.......hope you like. Steve.
    15 points
  12. Evening all! A belated thanks for all of the positive comments, I really appreciate it. Work and life have been busy the past few weeks so edging towards the finishing line on this one but still think I can get it done by Christmas! Mostly it's been flipped on its back and I've been working on the underside: The wings are just about finished now with wheels also glued in place - I added a metal pin to reinforce the join between the wheels and the undercarriage as she's heavy with all the nose weight added. The main exhaust streaks were sprayed on with thinned humbrol enamels and more grubbiness added with ground up hard pastels (like weathering pigment I believe) brushed on. I also added a bit of filtering with brown, white and black oil paints blended into the flat varnish with white spirit. Finally, taking inspiration from a rainy day on my bike, I added mud spatters from the wheels by flicking thinned oils from a brush. The turbochargers were finished off this morning: They were sprayed matt black then dry brushed with tamiya aluminium and bronze before getting the details picked out again with panel line wash. I think all of the extras I've used on this model are worth it but these and the wheels are a must, they make a big difference. Today I've also finished off the lights which were done with UV activated clear glue painted with tamiya clears: So all that's left is a little more weathering on the main fuselage, the props, the rear gun turret, a few fine details like the antenna coming out of the nose and some wires from stretched sprue to finish off. Thanks for dropping by and see you soon for the next (last?!?) installment. Sam
    14 points
  13. Hello again fellow modellers. This week I present another of the small stash I had of Eduard Fw190's. Built from the box and using the suggested colour scheme for the camouflage. It's a different scheme from the usual, which is what attracted me to the build. It is also my best constructed Eduard 190 yet, though I must admit I still struggle to find the best way to put together the undercarriage wheel wells so it fits snugly with the wings. Anyone out there who knows how to do it properly please let me know as I still have one Fw190 to build. Anyway, to this model. Brush painted (as always) using Xtracolour paints and the odd bit of Humbrol here and there. The strange demarcations were achieved by cutting chevrons into some Tamiya masking tape with a scalpel. I thought it worked quite well. Final coat of the Winsor & Newton flat acrylic and this was the result. Not bad for a beginner, but as I have been modelling off and on for 55 years I should be better that this. Here she is.
    11 points
  14. inspired by this painting, and having been in the stash I wanted another play with the Flory washes and the silly putty masking. This is my take on a 617 Sqn BAC Eagle (believed to be the chosen "in service" name for the production TSR2 Desperately trying to remember the make of resin aftermarket seats? A spare pair of Martel radar guided missiles from an old Flightpath Buck set and a donation of most of the external stores from the Airfix Desert Storm Tornado And onto the finished airframe:
    10 points
  15. I don't normally build military vehicles, but I remember vividly the colour Tamiya leaflets inside the 1:20 Formula 1 cars I bought in my teens, and this always featured and stood out as one I'd like to build. It's still widely available and cheap, so I picked one up last year. It must be getting on for 50 years old now (it's well over 40 years since I saw it in those mini-catalogues). Despite its age, it doesn't disappoint - it's a great kit that everyone should build at least once. It goes together really easily and the mould well detailed for its age. The build is out-of-the-box except for a small piece of plastic card to fill the hole on the underside of the load on the tailgate. The main challenge is getting the right shade of pink - I brush-painted Tamiya acrylic pink, then lightened it with white pigment, followed by sand pigment to give a more desert-used shade, then fixed it with a coat of matt enamel. The tyres are AK acrylic and the rest of the colours are Revell acqua. Primer was from a Revell spray can. Andy
    10 points
  16. I bought this Airfix Vintage Classics kit at Telford, and I was really keen to see how it would build. The tooling is from 1966, with a reissue in 2021. The kit went together really well - not too many parts so it's a nice weekend project. There was hardly any flash on the sprues, and the fit was really good. The decals were superb - I think the BEA livery is really smart. The instructions show the fuselage to be white (with only the blue cheatline), but photos that I've seen online show a light grey or silver underside. I already have the BEA Comet, so i painted them with the same scheme. I'm glad Airfix rereleased this kit - I like having a collection of aircraft with quirks.
    9 points
  17. Hello everyone, Here is my latest completion, the Airfix 1/72 DH4. This kit has its origins in 1967, making it some 54 years old. Despite its age, the kit is generally accurate in outline and dimensions, and is a great base for a detailing project. It does need some TLC, as the base kit has exaggerated wing ribs, incorrect engine cowling / louver details at the front end, and no cockpit to speak of. It also has a rudimentary “U” shaped set of struts, which slot into channels in the upper wing (leaving unsightly and inaccurate gaps). Hence, I filled in the strut channels, sanded down the flying surfaces, scratch built a new cockpit, corrected the engine louvers to more accurately represent a Rolls Royce Eagle powered variant, added new guns, and various other bits and pieces. I painted the model in the markings of A7422 of No 110 SQN, mid 1917. The markings are a combination of sprayed (for the SQN insignia and number), and decals (roundels, serials). Rigging is using Uschii elastic. Anyways, here are some pictures. I made up a base that paid homage to the old “Palitoy” boxings from the 1980s (this kit never saw a boxing during this time). Here’s some more ‘normal’ pictures: And some progress pictures (for more progress pictures and details of the build, see here https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=12349.0 ): And lastly, I couldn’t resist making up my own Palitoy boxtop (noting again that this kit was never released in this type of boxing): .... oh, and here’s my ‘dogfight double’; with the old Airfix Albatros from 1957 (for more on the Albatros, see here - https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235078105-tribute-to-a-simple-time/ ) This kit is actually quite a good one for its time. It builds easily, is generally accurate, and is a solid base for some additional detailing. Quite a fun project, and a tribute to a simpler time, all in all 😊 All comments and feedback welcome! Cheers, Brad
    9 points
  18. Thanks Alan See below to check how it turned out... You are way too kind, Geoff - glad you like it It did shrink, Steve; maybe even too much. See below Cheers Terry, thank you I never sand PPP, I just use a wet finger, a moist makeup brush or a moist regular brush to smooth it down and bring it to shape. As you say, it doesn't take sanding very well Thanks John See below for the wings Apologies for the late replies, guys - I was out to Germany on a business trip for almost the whole week, so no modelling and almost no wi-fi... Anyway, I did mange something during the WE, to wit: masking The idea was to airbrush some primer on the wings and on the canvas covered areas (rudder and elevators), then airbrush decanted Tamiya Gloss Aluminium all over. I started airbrushing my usual mix of Vallejo Grey Primer and Future, but it turned out in an epic fail: i couldn't find a decent thinning, the thing would just clog my airbrush like concrete or spray so thin as to flood everything; so in the end I resorted to spraying some good old Tamiya Sky grey, thinned with cellulose thinner. This was the result After a bit of clean up for some unwanted paint leaks, I set off to airbrush the metallic paint. I thought to show my setup for decanting paint, as in the past someone asked me how I did it; first off, I cut one end of a straw (the kind that bends) to have a pointy edge, and fix the other end to the spraying nozzle using blue tack (and masking tape to secure the join) Then I wrap the paint pot in some cling film, like this I then just pierce through the film with the pointy end of the straw and spray away like crazy Easy, and no paint spill whatsoever. Very important: I leave the paint in the pot with the cap just laying on top and leaving a small gap so that the propellant gas evaporates - it takes a few hours for that. If you don't do that, prepare for a surprise when you open the pot.... So, spraying: it looks like the PPP thing sort of worked As a reference, the gun access panels were left unfilled, and the difference is quite visible. I'm not sure it's enough, though; I may try adding some more PPP and spray another coat. What do we think? Here's the bottom side, meanwhile And a view from a diving angle Those pics aren't the best, but with the paint still curing, I didn't dare handling the model at all. Looks like the fun has begun: from now on (once it's all properly cured) it will all be about tone variations on the metal, before airbrushing the blue nose, the markings and all. That's it for the day, all comments welcome Ciao
    9 points
  19. Hi folks, I finally finished the build of the Honda NR, made from the Tamiya kit. It is OOB, except the Bare Metal Foil I used for the fork, the mirrors and the exhaust. And one should heed the instructions. The instructions called for paint sequence white primer, red, flourescent red. I ommited the white primer on the already red plastic parts, and they turned out a little darker than the ones with white primer. I noticed that only after the decals and the final clear coat was on. The difference is discernible on the side cowling parts. Cheers, Markus
    8 points
  20. F-4J Phantom II Tamiya 1:32 As always model straight out of the box. Painted with Hataka Red
    8 points
  21. So the shell will be cured tomorrow and I can crack on with the real work. To pass the time I've been playing with the figure supplied with the kit and now I'm finished with him the question is.....does he stay or should he go 🤔. Let me know what you think and here's a couple of pics to help you decide 🙂👍 Like I said back to the real work tomorrow so thanks for looking and I'll be back soon 🙂👍
    8 points
  22. A slightly hotch-potch update as the little bits get a little bit of attention… The figure got a matt coat and that sees him pretty much finished. I selected a few bits and bobs from my selection of WW1 figure kits; backpacks, binoculars, helmets and so on, and got them ready for paint, adding metal foil strap extensions to allow me to hang the bags from the perimeter handrail. The other ancillaries I need are – Wooden sand boards to hang from the side (a cut-down, trimmed and oil paint stained lolly stick) POW petrol cans Vickers guns. I’d tried using a blue-stuff mould and milliput for the guns and cans, but the results weren’t great, so I broke out the silicone and resin casting kit. I was worried that I might get bubbles trapped in the mould, so I glued thin rod onto the parts to act as breather tubes. I pressed the parts I needed into a block of plasticine and poured silicone over it, inside a rough box made up of plastic (HIPS) sheet. I used too little catalyst, and so it took ages to go off, but thankfully did eventually, and with no bubbles. The mould was reversed and the second half cast, using decanted and brush-applied hairspray as a de-moulding barrier between the silicone halves. I tried to make sure all the rubber was covered, without touching the parts themselves, and it worked! The curing was much faster this time – I probably added too much catalyst this time as it went off very quickly. This is my first attempt at two-part moulding, and it’s been pretty good – certainly better than the blue stuff effort. The gun handle was a failure though unfortunately – it just wouldn’t sit neatly in the mould for the second pour – but it shouldn’t be too difficult to scratchbuild for each gun. I’ll knock out a few more copies and get it all on board before final weathering.
    8 points
  23. I can't quite believe I got this one across the line, given how badly I flamed out of so many group builds this tumultuous year. This was not an easy build, and it's far from my best model, but in the end, at shelf distance, I think it actually came out ok for an 80s Kopro kit with pre-historic decals... The Aero A-100 was a light bomber and recon plane - which I assume those fuselage windows are associated with - made in Czechoslovakia pre-WW2. I am no expert on the history of that region in those days, but according to what I can figure out, the Czechoslovakian Air Force disbanded after the German invasion, but in Slovakia they set up an air force and used some of these planes. This one is in - roughly - the markings of that air force. This one "fought me all the way" to use that modeller's epitaph for a doomed kit. I tried EZ Line for the first time, with mixed results. I can see it will be good once I get better at it. At my current rate I will produce precisely two more biplanes before I die, though, so I guess it's gonna be a while... Anyway, glad to have it on the shelf. A few more pics in the build thread: Thanks for a good GB and some nice kits in the gallery!
    8 points
  24. Phantom F-4C '829 - SCAT XXVII' Col Robin Olds and 1st Lt Stephen Croker Summer 1967 - Ubon Royal Thai Air Force Base Kit - Hobby 2000 (Hasegawa rebox) 1/72 F-4C Extras - Eduard AIM7E Sparrow and AIM9B Sidewinder Missiles Fine Molds QRC 160 ECM Pod on outer stbd pylon (in place of Sgt Fletcher fuel tank) Aires Jet Cans Eduard etched detail set LP Models F-4 ladder set (excellent!) ASK canopy masks Colonel Robin Olds, already a WW2 fighter 'ace', joined the the 8th TFW based at Ubon Royal Thai Air Force Base in late 1966. He devised a strategy to lure the elusive North Vietnamese MiG 21s into combat with Phantoms by making them appear to be F105 Thunderchiefs, even mounting the QRC 160 ECM pods carried by Thuds. Named Op Bolo, Col Olds and his GIB shot down 2 MIGs on the first mission and subsequently downed 2 more. Though quite capable, he avoided another kill which would have made him the first Vietnam 'Ace', something he wished to avoid as this would have ended his operational tour. One of the greatest fighter pilots and leaders? I think so. Read his memoirs in 'Fighter Pilot' and judge for yourself. Many thanks to the hosts for a great STGB, and all the BMs who gave me encouragement along the way! And thanks to @Gene K, many thanks Gene for your generous advice. I'd also like to thank Jennings Heileg of Fundekals who did the research on Op Bolo Phantoms, the excellent Op Bolo document (free on the Fundekals website) was a great help with this build.
    8 points
  25. VOUGHT F-8E CRUSADER VF-162, USS Oriskany, 1966 Academy 1/72
    8 points
  26. Thanks chaps. The ICM kit went together pretty well. I left the engine out to simplify things a little, apart from the front part with the prop shaft, as I wanted a rotatable prop. The firewall part needed careful trimming in width, otherwise it tends to widen the fuselage slightly which will tend to give you issues with wing fitting and you will end up with no dihedral i.e the dreaded 'flat wing Spitfire' (Plenty of those to be found on the internet). Only minor filling necessary at the forward wing root leading edge if you are careful. I tarted up the cockpit a bit with some cables made from fuse wire, pretty much lost to view with the pilot installed. The rear view mirror in the kit was way over scale....more like 1/24 so I completely re sculpted that. Decals were nice except they needed absolutely ages in warm water before they would slide. They will tear if rushed. Overall very enjoyable build. I made a simple base for it while waiting for the weather.
    7 points
  27. Hi All, Painting - painting can be a problem as we all know, its all about the sequence, on Zeppy the rear of the hangar forms the bulkheads on the rear deck. I wanted to get the hull as complete as possible so that it could be painted together without having to mask off the boat deck along her side. I decided to do that by not pre fitting the hangar assembly. That meant chopping off the rear most section of the hangar to close up the stern most area. I scored the line and then used wire cutters, worked a treat, 7 You can see in that one as well the recycled parts for trumpeters boat davits being used to mimic detail for the elevators/wells, So hanger end chopped off and stuck in place, it did create a bit of a seam that I cheated and covered, then got the walkway that runs around the end fitted and laid the wood deck in place to get an idea of fit. Outcome fo that was stern fit is goodish, bow, more suspect. Before and after shot, Saw a recommendation that railing sticks better if joined to the plastic pre paint so on some went, Also did the same on the boat decks/openings/holes what ever they are called, stood two of Eduards boat davit/supports in, they seem over the top to me so I'm in a quandary as to what to do now, I cant use Trumpeters as they have been cut up for the hangar, hmmmmm. There's a pic of each set of openings, apologies for the repetition; There isn't much more that can go on at the stern pre second primer and painting, a couple of bits at the bow to do and the remaining few supports for the platforms but their railings will have to wait, Need to sort a stand as well, Aside working out the boat supports I'd like to add a little more detail to the boat decks but not sure what yet, I've spare degaussing cable for Hood which might work, I might percolate a bit and get Taiho on the go again, Lastly a shot of where she is at, along with a certain half finished project which a certain pair or modellers have been mentioning of late @ERK @Adm Lord De Univers, she's got to go back in the cupboard for now, Thanks for stopping in, S-boat,
    7 points
  28. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-hampshire-59451549 quote " 'Selfish' resident says air ambulance woke them up " I think I must agree with that resident; I mean, a couple of months ago a neighbour, several doors away, was inconsiderate and had a major house fire which was attended by 3 fire-engines, 2 ambulances and 1 police car, all with sirens and blue lights flashing. At 04.30, until about 07.00. It woke everyone up. I mean how inconsiderate of all those involved. It was really quite unnecessary, they could have arranged it for later in the day! (written in total sarcasm mode)
    7 points
  29. Putting it all together and this is what you get.... It has been an interesting build, sometimes aggravating but a definite learning experience. Thanks everyone for following along I'll have pictures in the RFI soon. And since I had to liberate my stash from storage for logistic reasons a couple of finishing builds( a la shelf of doom time frame) That I didn't get to finish before everything went into storage. 2022 will be a Damn the torpedoes, full steam ahead Gridley! It will be a definite busy build year between, GB's, current projects, shelfs of doom, and "Special Ordinance Projects" that are coagulating in this thoroughly whacked mind of mine. Gawd I love it when a Plan comes together! So until next time... Toodles! P.S. as promised here is the RFI link: Happy Holidays!
    7 points
  30. Well it's about time- the last Hasegawa F-4 I started is in a box in Jakarta for reasons I can't go into here, suffice to say, I won't be finishing it anytime soon. So let's go into the space above the garage, squeeze past the Ark of the Covenant, Excalibur and those Roswell corpses and grab that dusty old box down. It's the venerable Hasegawa 1/48 FG Mk1 Phantom, part of their Phabulous Phantom Family series of Quarter Scale kits. This 30 odd year old tool, since re-boxed by Revell, still stands up today. This will be a fairly vanilla build, but I have some aftermarket that I might use as I progress through assembly. I'm sure I have a second Pavla Mk7 Seat somewhere. 🙂 An original 1989 Boxing this comes with the White metal wheel hubs and Vinyl tyres specific to the UK variants. I might dodge the Vinyl. We shall see. After my recent Lancaster build ( B-) and F-16D Vista (C+) I am determined to do this kit justice, I will take my time, pay attention to detail and carefully plan my build. I want to produce a worthy replica of the first RAF Fighter aircraft I ever worked on. (But if things don't pan out, never mind, it's only a model! 🙂 ) So let us commence with some dangly bits- the Sargent-Fletcher 370 US Gallon external fuel tank. They go together well, fit is good- just some micro-drill action to represent multitude of bolts that clamp the centre section flange and a circle scribed on the upper surface forward of the pylon to represent the Gravity Fuel Filler point. A bit of sanding stick on the seams and she's good to go. I'll be using these tanks as test beds to determine which paints best represent the Air Defence Grey scheme of this cold war warrior. Thanks for looking, See you soon. Troffa
    6 points
  31. I haven't built a dalek in a few years. I chanced across this one on a certain auction site with only 30 seconds to go and luckily I was the only bidder. I have done a couple of modifications being a later version I deepened the base and replaced the kit supplied mesh with aluminium mesh. And here's the result.
    6 points
  32. Hi all. This I purchased this kit a couple of years ago at Telford when I had an idea of building a NI fit cab. As usual with my builds I build memories, having done 3 tours in Ulster starting in the 80’s these along with the Wessex are pinned in my memory. Moving on I wanted the boxing that had the PIP filters and the tiger meet boxing it was. The kit itself was obviously a design of the day so moaning is fruitless although the quality of the clear part is shocking and I feel I definitely got the Friday version. I wanted to add a bit of detail to the kit as I think for the pose I had in mind, too much would be on show. My original idea was a flyer with the 3 undercarriage legs lowered, a gun mounted and a Santa Clause in the other door. Alas I couldn’t find a suitable candidate so another option was chosen. Plan B was a 14 Int photographer hanging in the door way and I found a 3D printed figure on the bay in 1/32 scale. So the build pressed on and through research and advice from guys on here and on PPrune I modelled this cab of 1563 Flt which was part of 33 Sqn from Oct 94 and just prior to the application of the 2 tone green. The MRB are actually straight as the look slightly drooped in these photos. The whole disc is removable but the kit is mounted on the pole. The nose antenna were replaced with 0.28mm rod and looks quite well in this scale. Anyway I’m rubbish at photography but I took advantage of today’s sunshine and here we go. Build log is here 869E6AB0-A3D5-4738-8816-7ECCFAA46188 F74CCD14-2E19-46C9-9B44-4C515994B3F0 BF416798-7E39-4113-A388-F43D837EC97C 51852B87-275F-4B27-AC04-ED865CCE3436 7BD2D1F6-4D07-4739-8190-DF9332194839 B8AB78AB-D2FA-445A-9EAE-428FF4C9E3FE 5ECB3F9C-CF20-484D-A09A-6DF948084B91 4578ABA0-39B6-4EEA-8EA2-0E5C01394CA8 B907009A-F66D-4C72-A1D4-A9E64DEED7E3 6FFBCCD2-2008-49ED-88D1-B3D33AF877F2 6586A696-8DB6-47DE-9D88-7C2307470AF5 45E17CA2-DDD1-44D8-8309-6000ABB4C7D5 23B776BC-29C3-4A6B-9818-750FEE686E79 AA6E6796-6082-41E1-B64D-546DD06AF658 8397A977-8C37-4E69-A794-4874792698B3 5ECB3F9C-CF20-484D-A09A-6DF948084B91 My thanks go to Pete in Lins, Jabba, Rickoshea52, Benbow, tarlucan, Sammy da fish. I’m sorry if I’ve missed you out but it’s been a great example of everyone chipping in. I’m calling this one done and I’ll have a break before starting the next project. Thanks for watching, Steve.
    6 points
  33. Man, this Scimitar bashing is striking. I just like the way it looks and the fact it is not the 346th Bf 109 in 1/48 scale. I don't build models based on the performance of the real airframe, if that was the case all I'd build would be SR-71s.
    6 points
  34. The time has come to begin the decaling process . The decal are going to show the D Mack tyres sponsored car on Wales Rally GB , not quite accurate , I know , but as mentioned earlier in the build it’s a tribute to Elfyn Evans winning his home rally in 2017 . The decals , from Renaissance . Not numbered , put printed in the shape of where they need to be applied . The first few then . Never made a car using black paint or black decals before . Around the headlights and bonnet vents I have cut the decals for a better fit and the nose band I halved with the join around the Ford badge . My advice is never be afraid to cut decals in places to make it easier to get them to comply . The bonnet vents are masked ready for painting . Any gaps in decals I will fill in with paint / marker pen . Leaving this to dry now Gary .
    6 points
  35. I am still waiting for the long ladder section for the mast, so I have made a start on Conn's Oerlikons. Most of the Captains were re-equipped at some point with the RN MkVIIA Oerlikon mount, replacing the American Mk 4's the ships were commissioned with. This seems to have been both a manpower decision - the Mk 4, with a elevating trunnion, needed a 3 man crew while the MkVIIA with a fixed pedestal only needed 2 - and a response to maintenance problems with the US mount caused by corrosion. As most of the RN Captains eventually carried between 10 and 12 Oerlikons, this could mean a substantial saving in crew, which would ease crowding and reduce the manpower requirements overall for the class. By early 1944 the RN was somewhat embarrassed by the profusion of new ships it had to find crews for, and there was fierce competition for the available manpower between the RN, RAF, industry and the Army. The MkVIIA became the standard mount for equipping new vessels in the course of 1944, and there were presumably sufficient on hand to make the re-equipping of most of the Captains possible. My MkVIIAs come from MicroMaster in NZ, and are to their usual excellent standard of printing. I am almost embarrassed to say that I am beginning their assembly by chopping off the barrel and recoil spring section and replacing them with the brass barrels available from Master Model. Why am I committing this act of vandalism? Well, the barrel sections are very fragile and I am concerned about their longevity and stability on an operating model that will have to cope with both climate and pointing fingers. Better to replace them now than complete the model and then have to replace/repair them on an ad hoc basis. Cutting such lovely pieces of 3D printing in half is not fun, and if I had thought this out properly in the beginning I could probably have had Micromaster make me up guns ready for the mounting of the brass barrel sections. Oh well, you live and learn. One happy note is the fact that the depression ramps I made up for the guns, based on nothing more than a photo of those aboard HMS Rupert, have turned out to be the right diameter, width and height advised in the relevant AFO, which I only found online just now.
    6 points
  36. I've not been posting every step of the way, but I have been making some headway with it. She now stands on her own legs. Gun fairings are going to need a touch more work I think, we'll see after some primer. Definitely going to need a little filler to smooth the transition on the bottom of the intakes. The top and sides line up pretty nice, so I'll take that.
    6 points
  37. Thanks Alan Brass is definitely a versatile material for our uses Cheers Stix, thank you Thanks Charlie The drooping airbrakes are such a distinctive feature of the Phantom - just like the drooping ailerons It is weird indeed - still , a good fun in scratch building them I manged a little bit of progress on the FM kit: wings glued in, and as you can see a spacer was needed inside the bottom front fuselage to align the nose wheel bay walls correctly, jsut like on the Hasegawa kit There are a few minor gaps to be dealt with, but only once it has totally cured. Meanwhile, I tackled the tail fin: the fin top of this HAF bird should have the typical oval shaped antenna, just like on the Hase bit you see on top of it So the initial idea was to perform some more surgery, by removing the FM fin top and replacing it with the Hasegawa part. Problem is, that the latter is a good 1 mm shorter than the former Early in the build, I had cast a copy of this antenna using Oyumaru and white Milliput So I decided to go for that instead; after some sanding ad reshaping Superglued in place I filled in the gap at the back with the usual CA+flour mix (still to be tidied up in those pics). After some sanding and cleaning up, I eventually glued the two fin parts together The engineering of this part is just brilliant: no nasty join seam on the fin leading edge to deal with; still there's a bit of a gap on the back side of the insert that needs some care, but it's going to be way easier than a traditional identical halves join. Finally, a quick dry fit of the fin in place I'll glue it on only once I have completed the nose area; it's going to be easier to handle the model that way. The time to sort the outer wings is approaching fast now.... All comments welcome, as usual Ciao
    6 points
  38. Having spent a good deal of time in my youth refereeing junior rugby union, I am firmly of the view that junior football, regardless of code, would be much better (and happier) if parents were banned from attending!
    6 points
  39. Finished!!! Thank you Paul @Dansk, Giorgio @giemme and Alan @Alan P. Your support has been invaluable! I finished about an hour ago, and now am feeling quite mellow after Mrs J. cooked a roast dinner! With several glasses of wine!! 🍷🍷 Very happy with the outcome. But it could should be much more weathered. The fuselage on the port side was quite scratched by ground crew working, down to the original Light Gull Grey. I did try adding this, but it really didn't work. Weathering is not really my forte. And the two stars for the MiG kills - they're far to big!!! The Hobby 2000 decals were generally accurate, but I didn't notice the size of the stars till I applied them. If I can, I will replace them. So here she is, Colonel Robin Olds' Phantom F-4C 'SCAT XXVII'. Better get some pics in the gallery! Cheers,
    6 points
  40. McDONNELL DOUGLAS F-4 PHANTOM FG.1 892 Sqn., HMS Ark Royal, 1976 Italeri (Fujimi) 1/72
    6 points
  41. Hi Greg - I agree, it's nice to do a "small job" for once. Looking forwards to HMAS Wollongong And yes to not having to worry about aftermarket. I reckon these little ships would make a perfect starter for a beginner. I've painted in the wake, so that once the varnish is applied it will look "under-water" Portholes painted in.... And Decals on - these came from an "Iron Shipwrights" set. And these little darlings from the decal set from "351" If you look back at the original photos - this ship was filthy As such this was always intended to be an extended exercise in weathering. So the process begins. As usual using oils, first laid out on some cardboard to absorb some of the oil and then put on almost "dry" in very samll amounts thne brushed and manipulated with different brushes or cotton buds. Work slowly, keep looking and remove what you don't think works with some whote spirit. Nowadays I use a maximum of 4 oils I've concentrated on this session on gtting the deck "dulled", and laid inital hull weathering - I intend to go back to this for at least another 2 or 3 separate sessions with rust coming last More soon Thanks for looking Rob
    6 points
  42. Hi mates (I guess)My last ship model finished this year, the PLAN 1/700 Type 054 "Jiangkai I" Class Frigate FF-526 "Wenzhou" by Dodo Model. It is a resin kit, with 3D print small parts and PE parts. The hull is seperately bought from Dodo Model too, which is 3D print part but fitting with resin ship hull was some nightmare... Others are all OOB. Hope you enjoy it! Thanks for watching!
    5 points
  43. No photo but I thought it was unique enough to mention, whilst carrying out some very mundane inspections on a nondescript factory unit in Norfolk today there was a absolutely immaculate Pagoda Mercedes raised up on a two post lift, but stored under the Merc was an even more stunning XK120. Once I had finished dribbling over them the owner very causally mentioned that the Jag use to belong to Clark Gable!, which would make this car below. Unfortunately the owner did want to take any photos, but I can't blame him - still made my day.
    5 points
  44. Why don’t people have problems anymore? They have issues….. ”I could care less”. Well go on then, care less! A recent trend I’ve noticed is to use only one f in off. Off and of mean two totally different things, how can people get something so simple wrong? Graham, who is now on blood pressure medication.
    5 points
  45. Well, that's it folks! Over and done with until the next one rolls around The quality of the finished builds is excellent, well done to all who got theirs over the line. I hope you all enjoyed it and enjoyed following the other builds that have taken place. Thanks to all who took part! Cheers Dave
    5 points
  46. Gent's thanks for the kind replies, new words and likes it is appreciated. Unfortunately I am limited to any kind of online time at the minute we lost our electricity supply on Friday night with no repair time set as yet I do not have a backup generator like @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies so I am slying some time on my work PC during my lunch break for now hope to get more updates soon when I can defrost all the dangley bits Stay Safe beefy
    5 points
  47. Making a copy of the Mona Lisa, is still “art”. Art is creativity. Modeling is creativity. Modeling is art. Cave paintings, are decorative “art”.
    5 points
  48. Basic camouflage color applied, now it's time for these very cool spots and in two colors.
    5 points
  49. Quite a challenge to get to the finish line, and I cut a few corners just to get the airplane respectably close to finished. I'm not going to post it in the gallery because there's still lots of clean up and touch ups to do, but without the GB I would never have had the motivation to push to get this far. Thanks for everyone for the help and motivation.
    5 points
  50. Kit: 1/48 Monogram F-4D Phantom II - Subject: modelled as 65-0721 of 493rd TFS, 48 TFW RAF Lakenheath UK, 1976 Details: Modelled as per reference pics from interweb - I remember them whilst living in Lakenheath in the 70s to the mid 80s and coming home on leave through the years. Misc: Mr Paint paints, Mr Color paints, Vallejo paints, Floreys Dark Dirt Wash, Xtradecals Build Thread: Thanks for looking and to the admins for running this STGB - of what must be one of the important aircraft over the cold war era...
    5 points
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