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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/08/2021 in all areas

  1. Bought and built,hope you like it. Tks for visiting!
    35 points
  2. HI Everyone, Finished this one about the same time as the VLR Mustang so thought I`d share some photo`s My latest go at Eduard`s 1/48 Airacobra kit Built from the latest Weekend Edition boxing Finished as `PAT-RIOT II` of the 46th FS, 15th FG, 7th AF Built from the kit contents but with a few small additions and tweaks Namely: brake pipes, splitter plate in the dorsal intake, some wiring for the radio in the rear cockpit and aerial wires Also drilled out all the gun barrels and exhaust pipes Decals were from the kit Hope you enjoy the pic`s, thanks for looking Cheers Russ
    17 points
  3. Hi all This is 1/32 Dragon’s Messerschmitt Bf 110D with the markings of M8-SP from 6./ZG 76 Greece in 1941. Cockpit modified with Eduard instrument panel and seat belts. Exhausts are from Quickboost Paints: Gunze Sangyo acrylics Decals: EagleCals #32-119 Happy modelling
    17 points
  4. Hi all, Very recent finish for the F-16 STGB here on the forum. The build thread is here but to recap: Kit: 1/72 Revell F-16C kit 04844 Build: OOB Extras: Conformal fuel tanks from Hasegawa F-16 Paints: Tamiya Acrylics, Flory Models Wash, Klear, W&N satin varnish Decals: F-16 Zeus II by Procal I broke the very delicate tailplane aerials so need to replace those. And some of the decal touch-ups aren't a match. The canopy should be tinted but I forgot. But apart from all of that, really enjoyed it and love how it turned out. Revell_1_72_F-16C_Zeus II (2) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_1_72_F-16C_Zeus II (3) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_1_72_F-16C_Zeus II (4) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_1_72_F-16C_Zeus II (8) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_1_72_F-16C_Zeus II (1) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_1_72_F-16C_Zeus II (12) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Thanks for looking and happy modelling. Cheers, Dermot
    16 points
  5. This is where tanks and other armoured vehicles go to die, on the Target range, I've based my model on features from tanks on the range rather than depicting a particular Hulk. some closer views of the damage.
    13 points
  6. Finally finished this one... a shout out to Anirudh - theaa2000 - whose great diorama motivated me to go beyond what was just going to be a vignette of the kubelwagen and figures and scratch build the building and interior. The building is not elaborate but still took a fair time to create. My first tree also. The diorama references are these - For the building and the tree, I used this picture I found from the Bardia area... For the idea I initially thought would be a good vignette... More pictures of figures in Figures section... Some close-up pics... Only tank model I know (Bronco) with separate spark plugs... a lovely but fiddly model to build with a nice interior... Breda from Tamiya LRDG kit and Model Victoria resin boxes, oil drums, helmets, rifles etc... Panzer Ace jerry cans... Thanks for looking. Jeremy
    10 points
  7. Hello everyone This is the current offering from Airfix, and my reading around indicated this was the best of the crop if I wanted a Mk I in this scale. And... it is a very good kit. On the plus side, it has high levels of cockpit detail (you basically build the cockpit and the rails/mounts it fixes to.) You get the gun bay detail with eight Brownings and their feed chutes plus the removed gun bay panels. You get a nice pilot. Altogether the level of detailing is spot on, and looks (in my opinion) spot on. I'll now list my grumbles: The wing to fuselage fit is iffy and needs a lot of surgery to get right. I made a balls of it and had to fill and sand a lot then rescribe detail. Two other builders I know have had the same issue. Basically the wing seesaws - either the front is too prous or the rear is too proud. Solution: dry fit and trim as muchas you need before hitting the glue. Gun bays. Airfix asks you to cut out the wing panels yourself... I didn't want the bays open in any case but would hesitate to start carving into the upper wing panel as I would be bound to mess it up. Would an optional top wing panel moulded with gun bay covers removed be nicer? Yes cost and space in the box matter of course. Props and spinners. The kits includes two variants of each, and it's clear from the painting schemes which one goes on which plane, but in the instructions they only use the earlier DH type (I think) and there's no notes or option instructions to use the Rotol (I think!) for the alternate scheme. A little bit of direction here would be nice, as unless you're a real buff, there is no guidance to use the Rotol set for the second variant offered in the box. So - apart from issue number one, nothing major, and a very satisfying kit. Next in the 1:48 collection will be someone from the opposition that summer. Enjoy the pics, any criticisms or questions, fire away.
    10 points
  8. A belated RFI for a model finished a few days ago - I was waiting for the rain to stop! The build thread is here if you want to watch the painful process that was this one coming together... Anyway, here she is - any comments/criticism are welcomed👍 I will hopefully get some more photos added tomorrow, showing some close ups...
    9 points
  9. In this model, fabricated: -Pilot and operator cabs, -Propellers, -Nishties, struts, struts, wheels and landing gear flaps, -Imitation of wing mechanisation, -Rocket rails, -Light landing lights, -Keel BANO, -All kinds of antennas, -Exhaust nozzles. Of the modifications: -Cockpit lights, -BANO, -Burner, -miscellaneous air intakes, -Radar, -Cab, -Deflector hinges and linkages. Painting and lacquering with brushes. Paints: GSI Mr.Color and Mr.MetallColor urethane-acrylic, PC88 acrylic, Tamiya lacquer, futura, +plain pencil. Enjoy the view!
    8 points
  10. Hello. Here is my first finished kit in this GB. NH Industries NH-90 NFH aka Caïman Marine in the French Navy. This one is from Flotilla 31F. 1/72 Kit from Revell with some Reskit parts. Patrick https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235097270-revell-nh-90-caïman-marine-172/
    8 points
  11. Hello fellow modellers, Finished finally my 'Blues' Scooter from the US Navy aerial demonstration team, the Blue Angels. I used the Hasegawa kit No. 07221. Paints: It was pretty difficult to find or mix the right Blues Blue color, therefore I mixed 50% Tamiya Blue X-4 and 50% Tamiya Royal Blue X-3. Gloss varnish layer from Humbrol Subtle panel line wash Midnight Blue from 502 Abteilung Aftermarket: A-4F Interior set from Eduard No. 49273 1/48 A-4E wheels early from Eduard No. 648213 1/48 Decals: A-4F Skyhawk Blue Angels 1974-86 Seasons from Yellowhammer Models No. YHD48-19 1/48 Masks: A-4E/F Eduard No. EX023 1/48 Enjoy the reveal pics! Cheers, Jos.
    7 points
  12. Please Enjoy and have nice Weekend!
    7 points
  13. Hi all! Here's my latest build. If you haven't built a Tamiya Zero, you are missing out! They are fantastic! Well, except for the decals! LOL! I purchased some Berna decals but they were out of register and didn't adhere at all. Ended up using the kit decals instead. Added Eduard seatbelts and painted with AK's Ameiro paint. I went with a gloss finish as I understand the early war Zeros were maintained shiny. Pictured with my A6M5c. Thanks for looking! Rich
    7 points
  14. Got around to taking some proper photos today As is always the case, spotted some bits that need tidying in the photos. Regards, Nick
    7 points
  15. Oops - I have a problem. There is a mismatch between the width of the windscreen and where I've placed the demarcation between the uphostery and the external door panel . When painting, I followed a groove in the top of the door which looked like it was supposed to be the window channel - obviously it was a mistake not to check! It should be easy enough to rectify, but I had thought that I had finished painting the bodywork . Better news is that the wheels are now put together. I've added some spacers to the backs of the wheels in order to get the correct track dimensions. The aftermarket wheel nuts turned out to be strange beasts as they were not plated (as I had thought), but instead were made of solid 'chrome coloured' plastic. In other words, even cut or sanded surfaces retain their chrome appearance. This is not something that I've seen before . Cheers
    7 points
  16. I glued the intake on and then jumped in with both feet on the decals / GS-G. I took the advice above and used a strip of wide tamiya masking tape to stick over the letters while they were still on the decals sheet. I draw around them and then peeled off the tape and stuck it on some card. I used a sharp scalpel to cut around the inside creating a quite flimsy but surprisingly resilient mask. I stuck it on the fuselage, sprayed the black and then peeled it off. I repeated with the other side and then masked off the "S" leaving just the G. I stuck the roundels on from another set of decals I have as they have the darker red colour. Once they had gone off a bit, I sprayed the G on using the same GS mask. It is not brilliant but it is pretty good. There was some overspray which I have fixed. Some areas of the letters didn't quite get enough black either so I've touched them up a bit. I did a little panel lining with a dark thin pen and wiped off the excess.
    7 points
  17. Well yes, you see John, how do I put this, it's probably because you live in France, so what do you expect.............. Living here in the good old UK, we have none of that stuff, everything is so very very efficient. It's probably down to that Brexit thingy I shouldn't wonder. Things were so much worse here a few years back ................... I'm sure they were ............... hang on ......... was that a dream ............... er, I'm sure they were. Oh well, at least we all have good old BM to keep our spirits up! Terry
    7 points
  18. I thought it was about time I got this build finished. The Matilda1 has been sucking up most of my time and mojo and I don't really want to start something new until I've cleared a couple of stalled projects. All this one was waiting for was some weathering so I decided to go with my tried and tested dusty look which basically involves smothering the model in pigments suspended in enamel thinners to make a kind of wash. Relatively quick and easy but I think quite effective. I will add some crew and possibly some extra stowage at some point but for now I'm calling it done. So I will take some proper photos and stick in RFI sometime soon. The end result can now be seen in Ready for Inspection HERE Thanks for all of the feedback and help on this build, it is very much appreciated. Wayne
    7 points
  19. Hello fellow modellers, here I would like to show you my model of the Valkyrie. It is a small commuter plane for 5 passengers, no, four plus pilot. It's maiden flight was in Januar 2015, the second prototype crashed or made a forced landing in 2017. Since then no further information is available. There are some pictures in the net, showing a black aircraft, maybe the first prototype, on several occasions with different registrations. Amodel is producing several unique and exotic aircraft. although the quality has improved significantly, there are still some flaws apparent in this kit, especially in the instructions. They want to ignore the rear windows and paint the whole area black, the undercarriage doors are toolarge and had to be shortened, the holes for the undercarriage legs are positioned underneath the lower wing part and so on. I wonder wheather they never make a test build with their test shots. I wanted to close the canopy, but it was too big, so I built it open. The windows are clear in the kit, so I had to airbrush them with Tamiya smoke, which took me three attempts. I wonder how all the F-16 builders manage to do it so effortless and successfully... The opening mechanism is way too high and has to be shortened. So are the seats, or the whole inside will not fit into the fuselage. But this is what modelling is all about, isn't it? And still I will continue building these kits, because I like the aircraft types away from Spitfires and 109s. (F-4s are an exception!) Thanks for looking, Norbert
    6 points
  20. Adding the Cockpit exterior. Sometimes the fit leaves much to be desired. A little bit of shrinkage in the ensuing quarter century. But no matter I'll fill with some spare rod then slather and sand away. Speaking of slathering and sanding..... Finally got everything all smoothed out and uniform.... Or so I thought.
    6 points
  21. Thanks fellas!! Been working on the console, seats and seat belts ALL frickin' week long guys. I finally have some pics worth showing. Still have the back seat, front floor mats and shifter to go..... and THEN......I got my license plates in the mail today...juuuuuust like the one's on my old car...... Even got the "Have you chased a Mustang lately" tag frame on it.
    6 points
  22. Minicraft 1/48 Cessna 150 Not much I can say about this kit except I did my best on a kit that's a bit lacking.
    6 points
  23. Thank you, chaps All the details you saw in the last update, has been painted now. Here's a few photos of driver's and co-driver's hatch. I used a bare metal foil to cover the axles the hatches turn on. It sits quite nicely in the hull. The gun: Turret shell. I opted for a later ventilator with a hose. It looked better and I really wanted to use that hose. It's a bit later feature for Panthers, but I guess it could have been retrofitted as well. The hose itself is a rubbery thing and the paint doesn't stick on it too well, but when handling carefully it eventually sits in the turret quite well protected. The turret with a gun glued in its place: And after that I glued two halves of the turret together. When fitted to the hull, the gap underneath the turret isn't even - It's almost none at front and about half a mill at back. At first I thought it's the heavier aluminum barrel that's the culprit, but it seems that the basket inside the hull doesn't line up with the floor perfectly and thus pushes the turret a bit forward. But after giving it a thought I think I may have a quite simple fix for this problem that needs to be tried out. Here's the whole thing: Cheers! Kristjan
    6 points
  24. "Where there's buck..." Well there might be brass but mostly there's polycard Taking a rest from middlebody questions of form and good taste this morning I have gone in for the snout this time round. The printed polycard was part of a useless mistake, not deliberate, unusually for me. If it's a daft idea you can expect me to have had it including printing pattern parts on polycard which is dependent on the ink in the inkjet, looks as if this might have worked if it hadn't been a piece of thin polycard that got into the printer during a congestion round the workspace issue. But no, the parts I need for the nose are being recovered from the plans in the time honoured way with tracing paper and a 3H and 5B. Then stuck together. Too light Bill you daft beggar, but it shows the progress and the use of the engineer's square to maintain the structure's integrity. This will not become a solid block of Milliput but will be part of a boxed in structure that the milliput can form round. I am trying not to use a whole pack of 'put this time around. As many if not most of the HC10s in Borneo don't carry the oddball filter which Hendie made so successfully, I just ain't a gonna bother, normal nose for this beastie This afternoon I hope I may feel up to reducing the canopy buck by another eighth of a ninch to be able to put that on one side... The excess at the moment shows in front of the screen's proper position, the rear end is sitting where it must. I must admit the basic buck pleases me mightily. This is going to work, in PETg by hand, manually, this year.
    6 points
  25. Started work on the upper hull which needed some surgery. The wading rail had to be removed which was relatively straight forward. The only tricky bit was the portion alongside the engine decks which was close to the gun depression stop rail. To make access easier I decided to remove the stop rail, which also allows me to scratch replacements that will be more accurate. However I did make a bit of a pigs ear of what should have been an easy job and the hull now looks bit second hand. Good news is that the rear side bins will hide the damage once fitted! The transverse section of the stop rail also needed to go, and this was a bit fiddly as Tamiya moulded the outboard sections into the fuel tank access panels. I also cut out the transmission decks in preparation for upgrading to Mk5+ standard, filled the redundant holes on the glacis, and deleted the splash guard aft of the drivers periscope. As a change from the destruction wrought on the hull I started detailing the exhaust box. I have some resin exhaust pipes of the correct shape that will be going on. Have also been doing bits to the base which is quite a challenge for me as I usually make the simplest base I can get away with after I have finished the model. For the Wedge I have had to make the base in tandem with the model to get the tracks/suspension to match the base and to arrange the system to locate and hold the model in place. A package from Oz also arrived during the week! Looks like I have many hours of track bashing ahead of me!
    6 points
  26. Morning all, My modelling time has slowed a bit after a busy month getting out and about photographing real aircraft, but I've been slowly tinkering away in the background and have finished my latest build this morning, ICM's awesome 1/72 MiG-25. Despite the fairly complex assembly, the model comes together beautifully with relatively little filling and sanding required. Built completely OOB, I used MRP Traffic Grey for the main colour, while the details and metallic areas were painted using my more usual Hataka Orange Line and Alclad lacquers respectively. Overall, a fabulous kit of this absolute brute of a jet ICM 1/72 MiG-25BM Foxbat by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr ICM 1/72 MiG-25BM Foxbat by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr ICM 1/72 MiG-25BM Foxbat by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr ICM 1/72 MiG-25BM Foxbat by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr ICM 1/72 MiG-25BM Foxbat by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Thanks for looking, comments welcomed as always, Shaun
    6 points
  27. Far be it from me to seek credit, but I've just got my Maintrack vacform kit to the point where it's ready to paint ...
    6 points
  28. This area is a bit boring, isn't it? There's nothing in the way of a little damage practice. Here's my weapon of choice. I thinned down the plastic and then punched through with a sharp implement. The next hole was to stop at the panel line so I cut that first with a razor saw. And then thinned up to the line. Interesting, I thought. When I paint it I'll be able to show the red white red markings flaking away from the impacts. I painted and polished the track runs while they were getatable, but its all going to be hidden, assuming that I follow the plan and leave the track on this side. It's useful practice for the other one though, which is going to be severely mangled. I've found a photograph of some useful damage which I want to incorporate but I'm keeping that to myself until later, for dramatic reasons. Believe me, it's very dramatic and much better than my lame 'sponson fallen off' plan. Some random splinter damage to intensify the planned chipping. The chipping on the inside will be waaay over the top! Lining all of those axles up with their sockets was, how shall I put it, interesting! So we now have a completed side plate assembly to build upon. Next will be the back end with the fuel tanks, the floor, and then the port sponson. They will all have some small modifications carried out by impact damage but only of a minor nature. After that everything will be a shambles and on purpose, for once in my moddelling career.
    6 points
  29. Hey everyone So whilst I'm waiting for the satin coat to dry on my Tempest in preparation for weathering my thoughts turn to my next build. I have plenty of started kits (1/48 Revell Phantom, Tornado F.3 and GR4) but theses are all full of resin and etch upgrades (the Phantom is looking good but its just a little too involved at the moment) and I gotta be honest I need something that I can just build straight OOB and this is my choice.. ..the Kinetic 1/48 Harrier GR3 which I intend to build as XV997, Op Corporate, Falklands Conflict, 1982. It will be OOB other than seat belts which will be from Eduard as life is too short trying to recreate them from bits of foil only for them not to meet my expectations and the seat is quite a prominent part of the cockpit. I'll be referring to @Lord Riot build for any pointers as his turned out rather splendidly. Cheers all Iain
    5 points
  30. Hallo The interior kit of the T-60 tank is generally very nice to build. A few shortcomings are already there. Self-made inadequacies when sprayed components are to be glued, and due to the color, the accuracy of fit is no longer given. Etched parts that are so delicate that they can hardly be bent precisely and, because of their size, can hardly be glued. The delicate track chain, which is difficult to assemble and even more difficult to close. In all of them, however, I like the model because it is one of those little Russian tanks that are easy to forget in the collection. I'm looking for good kits for a KW and a Stalin. Who can give me ideas? Happy modelling
    5 points
  31. Final one for this afternoon and moving up a scale again this time to 1/48th. Bought this kit from a BMer earlier this year or last, but not started until a around three months ago. Basically its the AIrfix kit of the Mk.IV from the box but finished with decals by Model Maker of Poland. I chose to finish it as a post war example before the code changed from 'RF' to 'PD'. Serialled KM112. In the future I may well change the code to PD and add the underwing seral as per the original airframe. As a reference, I used the rather nice book from the Polish Wings series and it helped a lot with all sorts of useful pointers such as the date the orders came through regarding the code change which the squadron members disliked as the RF codes were a symbolic part of the units history during the wartime years. The decals are very nice but I found the upper wing roundels are too big on the decal sheet so I found a pair from my Modeldecal sets. Why did I not use the kit roundels you may ask??? Well I really do not know what has happened to them! A real mystery. They have simply vanished from the box and surrounds in my shed!! I did manage to use the cockpit decals while it was on build but after that they just went AWOL!!!! Really frustrating and I hope they reappear.... maybe... Well that s it for now. Going to park these now and set about doing pics of another recent finisher but also a very recent issued kit.
    5 points
  32. Well, here's an option for you to consider. Graft the aft, upper fuselage spine from one of the flawed kits (Hasegawa, Hobbycraft, Academy etc) to the fuselage of the Airfix bubbletop Mk XIV! Good way to practice minor surgery and learn new skills! I've seen at least 4 different approaches to get to a Mk XIV highback, all turned out great, but this one seems the simplest. (many articles here on BritModeller)
    5 points
  33. It happens frequently that we sit down and just enjoy life up on our balcony. After a glass, or three (four?), of good wine towards the evenings I then get to see many fantastic moments of history passing by, mainly on the lake in front of us. There have been numerous well known vessels passing through, and some lesser known, but for some reason only I seem to see them... Sometimes however there are also old flying machines passing me. Yesterday evening was such a moment. And this time I managed to catch my moments with a camera! Suddenly I could hear the sound over the sky from something with several low revving engines obviously moving slowly. And then it appeared at low altitude behind our roofs, an airship, which turned out to be the mighty LZ127 Graf Zeppelin! It slowly came closer. The captain made a slow turn in front of me and then it slowly disappeared over the house roof. These where the best shots I got. Well, that's really the only way this model looks any good I'm afraid. It's the old Hawk 1/245 (they say) scale kit of Graf Zeppelin, and it really has it's serious short comings. This is actually an abandoned project that was kindly donated to me by a friend who had given up on it some years ago. I can't blame him, and I'm really glad I didn't go out and spend the current asking prices for the kit, which could possibly have happened. The hull halves were glued together, half the seam sanded, three fins fitted and the main gondola finished when I got it. I planned to make some corrections and detailing, but very soon I realised how much that was wrong with the kit needing scratch building, like everything, and then the hull itself would still have it's problems. There isn't much that is correct anywhere on the model, and the engine gondolas and small details are also moulded in nylon which makes them completely hopeless to work with. So after finishing the fourth fin and disassembling the gondola and improving its bottom shape I gave up on that path and took a brake. Two weeks ago I picked it up again and decided to just finish it as it was, paint it decently well and make it look like something that could at least remind of Graf Zeppelin from a viewing distance hanging from the roof in my work room. I would still like to build a more correct and detailed model, but not from this kit...
    5 points
  34. the radio in the kit is the wrong type, so it won't be on show, I'm closing the compartment using the PE lids. the empty panel to the left looks wrong with the sliding lid slide all the way closed, so I've back filled it so to speak, using a portion of the kit, sliding door, cut to fit. the lower lid swings down to provide the signaller with a table to rest his morse keypad, signal book and log, and maybe his secret code booklet, (to be destroyed in case of capture) None of that will feature here as it's all closed up and everyone is lending a hand with a shovel and the sand shields.
    5 points
  35. Hi fellow britmodellers, inspired by a quarter scale Eduard VLR Mustang kit, I took the Airfix kit and modified it to one of Iwo Jima machines. Decals came from georgeous DK Decal sheet. The mods featured some scribing, making new antennae masts setup and borrowing the 165 US gal tanks from a P-38 kit along with some scratch building for their sway braces etc. Painted with Mr. Color SM range. Cheers. Libor
    5 points
  36. "The best way to get all Japanese decals ( Fujimi, Hasegawa, Tamiya etc)to work as they're supposed to is use hot water and the correct setting solutions. You'll need a bottle each of Gunze Mr Setter and Mr Softer. Micro sol and others won't work as they're formulated differently. Do not use Gunze on Microscale or Cartograf decals as it will chew right through them. Dip the decal in hot water, it doesn't need to be boiling but it does need to be fairly hot. The temperature of a drinkable tea will do. The glue is heat activated and is what makes up most of the thickness. If you dip it in cold water you'll spend the rest of the day waiting and cursing. Lay down some Mr Setter, this is in the blue bottle. It acts as an additional glue. Slide the decal onto it and into postion and leave it alone. The decal should wrinkle a little. Give it 10 mins or so and go over the decal with a brush with a little Mr Softer (green bottle) on it. Use sparingly as it is extremely hot. Too much and it will damage the paint, especially the weaker acrylics. The decal will now wrinkle a lot. Do not touch it as it is almost liquified at this point. Once it is dry it will have smoothed out and will lay down beautifully over just about any raised or recessed detail you care to think of. Used properly it is probably the best conforming decal process in the industry. Used incorrectly and you'll be just another guy complaining about crap Japanese decals." Note, some older Tamiya kits have Superscale printed decals, these look to be quite fragile. They don't always store well... Basically, test out one you don't need and see how it behaves, I see people on here use 40-50 year old Frog decals with no problem, so approach on a case by case basis.
    5 points
  37. The struts fit into slots on the bottom of the upper wing. The cross piece protrudes above the wing surface and thus must be reduced in height: On the left is one of the struts after modification, which is compared to an unmodified strut on the right: I then did the oil-paint-to-simulate-wood trick on the struts: I dropped the elevators and used a scriber to sharpen the aileron and rudder lines, then applied a brown wash: I also scribed the join between the removable outer wings and the center wing section: A goodly amount of time today was spent drilling holes in the wings, etc. for rigging. Ninety eight holes, to be precise. And, five broken drill bits! I'm undecided about how, exactly, to do the rigging. I'm tempted to try and include the various turnbuckles. If so, these are my options: From left to right above: Gaspatch resin turnbuckle; Gaspatch metal turnbuckle; and the more traditional "metal tube that looks sort of like a turnbuckle, when viewed from a distance", from Bob's Brackets. The Gaspatch turnbuckles do look nice, but I expect will be very fiddly to use. The resin ones are very fragile and break easily, especially at the tiny loop where the rigging line is attached. Because I do want to get this build done sometime this decade, and maintain my sanity in the process , I'm leaning toward Bob's Brackets. Decisions, decisions . . . .
    5 points
  38. After waiting what seemed like ages for some paint to arrive I've started getting the airbrush to the bits I've built already. This is only half done - they need flipping over and their other sides doing, but that'll be a job for tomorrow, I reckon. I had some annoying airbrush issues which, although now sorted, made the job longer and more finicky than I'd have hoped. Hopefully I can crack on a bit now and get some more of the building done - it doesn't feel like I've made a proper start yet. Cheers, JRK
    5 points
  39. Just finished. See you to the gallery. Patrick
    5 points
  40. that last image, can you spot the howler? a little snip and touch up. this image, "Gunner aim Higher"
    5 points
  41. I finally managed to get a couple of good sessions in at the bench after assorted embuggerances had conspired to put modelling activities on hold for some time. The news that Telford is going ahead also put the proverbial rocket up the equally proverbial Martian's rectum. A few people have helped with sourcing materials and parts for this build as well as joining in the serious debate when things have been unclear on the real submarine and the least I can do is to push the thing over the finishing line. First up was to get the hull buttoned up. The fit here is poor although I knew this was going to be an issue before I started the project. I finally decided to go with the suggested straight bow and this was corrected by dint of laminated plastic card and lashings of Dolgellau's finest. Now just watch some smart Alec decide that the shape of the hull in the kit is right after all! Best keep them away from an angry blurglecruncheon totting Alien, things could get very messy! While the Miliput was out I also tackled the abysmal fit of the sub's keel. It was dished in and no amount of manipulating the kit parts could overcome this. I removed the deadlights from the hull as they were getting in the way of cleaning up the seam on the upper hull. I will replace them just before painting. Talking of painting, there seems to be a great many opinions as to the exact exterior colour of the submarine, ranging from black to a pale grey. Seeing as the Chapman Wise painting has proved to be accurate in so many other details, I think I am going to go with a mid grey, Tamiya Sky Grey seems to be the best bet for this. The kit depicts a flange around the bases of the conning towers but this was indistinctly moulded and was getting in the way of cleaning up operations. Not one to mess about, these were carved away and new flanges fabricated from .10 'thou plastic sheet. These will get a good tidying up when the cement has had a good twenty four hours to cure. Next up the snorkel system was cemented into place and a flange added to the base of this as well. The hose was then connected up with the bellows assemble that had been installed earlier. The hydroplanes were then added to the model before I decided that there was so much uncured glue on the model, that I had best leave things alone until the morrow. Time to get the Martian Cave tidied now, prior to getting back to that riveting that I have been so looking forward to. Well, I haven't but doubtless you sadistic lot have! Thanks for looking. Martian 👽
    5 points
  42. And speaking of whitewash the first coat has been done! Looks rough doesn't it, wait until you have a closer look! Oh yes, very rough!! Wait until the next two coats go on (3 is usually enough) and then it will look even worse! Don't worry though as once it is sanded back it will take on the effect I am looking for, hopefully! Thanks for looking in and as usual all comments and criticisms are gratefully received. Craig.
    5 points
  43. Blimey full house. So happy to have such wonderful company. 🙌 Decided to name my printing tools. Mick on the left. and Freddie on the right. *Sorry. 🤣 As you can see it’s a well planned process now I’m into my third rodeo. 🦤 As promised I need to take some shots of the boxed plastic. Wings and things. And the rest. And that’s your lot. The decals look good. And the instructions are ……. Simplistic. Should just read. “Put model together “ in comic sans. 😮 I started by picking likely candidates for upgrades. the exhausts. I’m pretty sure these should be pipes. I think I can make some of those. The tail? Actually looks ok but I believe it’s the wrong shape so I might make one of those too. the cooler thing leaves a lot to the imagination. And of course the non existent interior. It won’t take much but I’ll need seats and a control column. Possibly wall stuff and some floor bits? We shall see. hang on just getting a coffee and a chocolate digestive.….……talk among yourselves. ok I’m back. Channeling my inner @hendie I removed the two top supports that I just didn’t need. Took a punt on setting the base supports by hand and voilà. I bloody knew that Tardis tea tray would come in handy one day. 💙💙 Snipped supports before cure. (They are tiny ) A few whafts with a sanding stick / sponge and we have new wheels. 🤗 can’t stop thinking about the Marty Feldman sketch @corsaircorp shared a week or so ago. 🤣 in comparison with the kit part it’s a definite improvement. Looks smaller doesn’t it? Well I can confirm it isn’t. 🧐🤓 This is all very well and good but what about that old kit? How’s the fit? Hmmmmmm 😵‍💫 She does squeeze together really quite well. Although that seats looks painful. 😬😮 The detail is ok though. Bit of re scribing and we’re good. I really want to use as much kit as possible. The wings are ok if super heavy on the lumps. A bit of sanding and we’re here. The soft plastic is our friend here. I’ll sleep on that but I think it looks ok. Those pin marks are cRaZy. Sprue goo to the rescue. 👨‍🚒 I’ll sand that and cut out the control surfaces next time. just before I finished up I did a dry fit. Not bad considering. ❤️ well I’m all out of coffee so that’s yer lot. Thanks for dropping by. Hope you’re all having a great week. take care and as always Happy modeling. Johnny.
    5 points
  44. As I´ve mentioned in my jetmads threads I had to finish off three comission builds before I could get started on a big Viggen. Well, I am finished with the builds and I thought I´d present the three brothers in turn. Today it´s Olle 61, as of yet one of the two still flying Viggen. It is a demilitirised Sk37E from the now closed F15 wing in Soederhamn. In it´s day it was turned into a potent EW platform with an asortment of pods to go with it. Now it flies with the SwAFHF (Swedish Air Force Historic Flight) on air shows across Europe. For the build it was loaded with Master pitot tubes, Maestro PE and wheels, pilot repicas pilot figure and a CMK figure with seat, CMK reverse thrust paddels. The decals was put together from various sources and sheets. Ok here are the pics! And I´m a bit sorry they didn´t turn out that good after editing...I´ll do better on the next Viggen More in part 2
    4 points
  45. A-6E Intruders of VMA-332 "Moonlighters" at Nellis AFB to participate in Red Flag 81-1, November 1980. 152641 152904 159310 Thanks for looking, Sven
    4 points
  46. It is one of those builds where it is so easy to pick up and do some more. I had a little bit of time so decided to put the fuselage together and glue the wings on. The fit is exemplary, as many have said and as we have come to expect from Tamiya. As @Dansk has said in his build, some of the join lines are so fine you cannot see if, in fact, you have glued them. Now this is a problem I like to have. I did use a small amount of filler (CA/talc) in a couple of areas to improve or remove seams. Really such small jobs they were hardly worth mentioning and more a personal thing to improve the look. One area was the join line running through the rear of the nose intakes. The second was where the wing section fits to the rear of the fuselage. These seams coincide with the mating parts and on my build needed a little improvement. I filled and sanded the joints and better blended the top and bottom sections either side of the front panel seam. The rear panel seam should be removed completely. Very little filler was needed as evident. Here they are ready for some re-scribing as necessary. As I said, such a minor thing that it is hardly worth mentioning. Front wheel well complete, well maybe, very tempting to add some extra piping. Ray
    4 points
  47. I did some YouTube research last night on the subject of painting 1/35 figures with oils. I studied a few of the masters in action and was pleased to note that my methods are pretty much the same. The vast difference is in the way I apply them. I identified SIX mistakes. My first mistake was a character failing. I was in too much of a rush, which is a weakness in all my moddelling endeavours. I was hoping to paint four faces and eight hands in a session. It would appear that one face in a two hour session is a more reasonable expectation. Right then, slow down and enjoy the process. The faces of the figures are the focal point of the whole thing, they deserve my time and patience. (Does anyone know where I can buy some patience wholesale, quickly?) My second mistake was equipment error. I was using the wrong brushes. Since I started using acrylics on figures and models generally, I've been in the habit of using big expensive sable brushes with fine points and big bellies which hold lots of paint so it won't dry on the brush before I can get it onto the model. Rapid drying isn't an issue with oils so I can use those tiny tiny 0000 brushes that I used to paint enamels with back in the day. And which I still own! At least, unlike the patience thing, that's an error I can easily fix. My third mistake was another equipment error, with a bit of expectation overreach too. These ICM figures have very good faces for injection mouldings, but they aren't as crisp and easy to paint as the limited run resin figures which I'm aiming to match. You have to be even better at painting to get top results from a poorer start point. I need to be more forgiving and then to get some resin 1/35 heads to practice on just like I did with the 1/10 heads. My fourth mistake was a combination of laziness, haste and inexperience of the medium. I didn't wick enough of the linseed oil out of the paint. In fact, I didn't wick any of the oil out of the paint. (I was in too much of a rush - see above). The result was that it slid around like melting jelly and was impossible to control. It's also taking ages to dry. My fifth mistake was one of expectations. Not even the masters of YouTube paint eye pupils in 1/35. Because you can't see people's pupils in people that 'far away'. I took a figure with me on my dog walking this morning and asked a friend to stand still while I walked away from him far enough so that he was the same apparent size as the model held at arms length (26 inches from my face came out to about 80 feet away). Curiously, I could see more detail on the model than on my full sized friend - a lifetime of moddelling and reading has made me shortsighted according to my optician. So it's not just impossible to paint 1/35 as if it was 1/10, it would also be unrealistic if it could be done. I will dial back my expectations. [The model I used for my experiment was painted with acrylics, which raises the question of whether the subtle blends of oils are needed on small soldiers anyway. I think probably not, but I will persist with this quartet and a few more, before deciding whether to revert to acrylics for anything smaller than 1/12.] My sixth mistake was a classic perceptual error of Britmodeller (and other on-line forums) MAGNIFICATION! Of course it looks awful on the screen. The head on my monitor is 55mm, collar to top of hat, in the plastic he's 10mm. Of course it looks awful on the screen. That's a linear magnification of 5.5 times or over thirty times larger in area. Of course it looks awful on the screen. On screen he's 1/6 scale, even larger than the resin pilot's head pictured above. Of course it looks awful on the screen. I shall post long shot photographs in future! [Does this phenomenon make modellers reluctant to post their kits? Does it make us as viewers, a little harsh in our judgements?] That's been a heck of a lot of learning for one day at the hobby which I've been enjoying for at least 50 years. And which I thought I knew how to do pretty well. It's astounding how scale moddelling keeps challenging me to get better and stay interested after all that time. I praise the gods of plastic for offering me that first Airfix kit so long ago.
    4 points
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