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  1. This is my second build of this magnificent kit of my one of my favourite Boeings. Extras included Master metal MG barrels, Yahu instrument panel, HGW fabric seatbelts, Master Details nose turret zip inserts, nose defrost pipe, control columns. Kits world decals. I did a build video series on YT if anyone's interested https://youtu.be/m-ncuQwvgcI Displayed with her sister ship "a bit o'lace" which I did earlier this year and motorised, but this one is just static. I just had to have a metal one and an OD one, but that's me done for big bombers now as have no more room (this is the only kit I know of supplied with these ingenious wall mounts). I know there's a nasty gap from the top section, but I am living with it as I value being able to pop the top off and look at the inside. Normally that kind of work is lost forever. Thanks for looking.
    41 points
  2. This Tamiya 1/48 P-47D was a storage queen. Construction of this kit began more than 10 years ago. Soon after starting, I broke off the tail wheel, lower fuel tank and sway braces. Silvering affected many of the decals, especially the national insignia. Unhappy with the results, I shelved the partially built model for many years. I could not get motivated enough to fix the broken sway braces, strip off the decals and reapply them. This project survived the cut when I disposed of most of my model collection years ago. The model and parts were eventually boxed up and survived a number of moves and long term storage. Recently, I resolved to finish or dispose of my collection of started and abandoned projects, starting with those nearest to completion. This OOB P-47D was first in the queue with what I thought would be the least effort to finish. After a few hours of tedious masking and painting, most of the silvering was gone. Some remained, but I no longer had the will to do more. The sway braces were fabricated and the fuel tank replaced. The cockpit canopy was masked and painted. After some touch-up painting and an application of matte varnish, the model was done. Looks good from a few feet away. A model for our current personal standoff distance. Thank you for taking the time to look. Now on to the older 1/48 Hellcat II project! Don
    27 points
  3. Hiya Folks, Another one for the 45 Sqn collection and built alongside a 45 Sqn Blenheim wearing the same colours,..... this is the Valom 1/72nd Vickers Wellesley from the same unit wearing the pe war DD code letters and the short lived temporary desert finish,...... in which the Dark Green of the standard Temperate Land Scheme was overpainted with a Light Stone colour that soon appeared to wear off! Here are some photos depicting the scheme on real Wellesley`s,...... the first, coded DD-I is the aircraft that I chose to model,..... it may have had the unit insignia on the fin inside the standard bomber `grenade' shaped frame,..... the other are from 24 Sqn,...... all pics from my own collection; Here is the WIP; And here is the model,..... the base coat of Light Stone was applied using a Tamiya Rattle Can of Light Sand,..... the rest was brush painted using Humbrol acrylic Dark Earth and Black. Decals came mainly from Modeldecal generic code, serial and roundel sets; And the Blenheim and Wellesley together; I snapped the wing in half while making the Wellesley,..... hopefully nobody noticed!!! Cheers, Tony
    22 points
  4. Good evening, dears. The set is, without exaggeration, one of the best sets of modern modeling. The quality of castings, although it is a "shortrun", is not inferior to the best manufacturers, pouring under high pressure. Stands on a par with "Wingsy Kits". The riveting is very delicate, as authentic as possible. Bravo Clear Prop! Bravo Ukraine! I really like your products. If the photos suddenly disappear, just click this link to my cloud storage.
    20 points
  5. Just finished. 1/48 Academy F-4B Phantom VF-142. 1967, MiG-21 Killer. LCDR Robert Davis and LCDR Gayle Elie. Eduard PE for cockit and Furball Aero-Design Bravo Mig Killers decals and kit stencils. Mr Hobby aqueous paints. Folding from scratch. 20210815_154721 by Rodrigo Loyola, en Flickr 20210815_154809 by Rodrigo Loyola, en Flickr 20210815_154827 by Rodrigo Loyola, en Flickr 20210815_154924 by Rodrigo Loyola, en Flickr 20210815_154908 by Rodrigo Loyola, en Flickr 20210815_154741 by Rodrigo Loyola, en Flickr 20210815_154727 by Rodrigo Loyola, en Flickr Cheers
    15 points
  6. Hello everyone. This has taken far too long to finish as it kept getting shunted to the back of the queue by shiny new builds, but here it is finally complete with its clever but gimmicky removeable engine covers and drop tank. Being Tamiya the fit is excellent and I especially like the way the undercarriage is engineered making it impossible to get the gear legs and wheels out of alignment. However, I'm surprised the wingtip lights weren't done in clear plastic. As ever I built it OOB, even using the decal seat straps, but I swapped the kit markings for aftermarket ones from Eagle Cals to depict a JG 51 aircraft found abandoned in Tunisia in May 1943. 1/48 is not my usual scale and I could probably have added a few details, especially to the engine, but in the end I was just glad to get it finished. Alongside Tamiya's equally neat 1/72 version: All the best, Ian
    14 points
  7. Hi all. Just joined, so thought I'd post my recently completed Fw 190 which I started many years ago but did not get round to finishing till now.
    14 points
  8. Hello all, I finished this earlier this year. It's Hasegawa's 1/48 Mitsubishi F-2A with DXM decals. The paint is Mr Color and the red and white tail markings were masked and sprayed. This has just been published as a five-page build article in SAM's September issue, which I believe is available now (mine just arrived through the door). Thanks for looking, and comments welcome, Jon
    13 points
  9. My grandson Carter recently built the ZTS Plastyk kit of the Gloster Javelin. I couldn't convince him to paint it in authentic colours - he opted for a nice baby blue on top and a darker blue on the bottom. He's coming up to six years old, but he's already using an airbrush. I let him rummage through the Island of Misfit Stickers and he selected some pretty cool markings. Shark mouths from an F-86 and lightning bolts from some USN birds - Grumman Tiger and Panther/Cougar I believe. Now, don't get upset but he wanted stars and bars on the wings. I told him it should be roundels as this was a British plane. He said "but what if America bought some?" So just imagine this Javelin as it would have appeared if the USN had purchased them and launched them off of a carrier. Just try to imagine that - I can't but maybe you can. I'll keep working with him to get this "what if" silliness out of his head. Cheers, Bill PS. By the way, he also told me that the Sabrina-style appendages on the underside were skis for landing on water. Seriously. What has this kid been watching on his iPad? Oh well, I suppose that would come in handy after the Flying Flatiron has left the catapult.
    13 points
  10. Before I start, sorry for my english, guys. My english is horrible and my teacher (google translator ) is lazy. I start my post in this forum with some models that I built. I do scratchbuilding, normaly 1/100, with paper, cardboard, balsa wood, plastic and various materials. I paint with brush and craft paints (very, very, very cheaps). I pretend post mounting step by step later. A-4 MB Skyhawk 1/100 - Used by Brazillian Navy Morane-Saulnier MS Tipe L 1/100 - Roland Garros aircraft
    12 points
  11. In 1977 the Finnish Air Force ordered 50 Hawk Mk 51 trainers to replace the already obsolete Fouga Magister and Saab Safir ones. In the 1990's 25 more Hawks were purchased bringing their total number In the FAF's service to 75 planes. The Hawks are estimated to stay in service till the 2030's. In order to build the Finnish version of the Hawk I bought the Italeri Red Arrows Hawk kit in 1/48 scale (it was molded in bright red plastic). The quality of the kit was allright, but didn't reach the tamigawa level, though. The nose of the plane needed surprisingly much weight, some 50 grams, to prevent the model from being a tail sitter. For the cockpit I bought a FAF photoetch detail set sold by the Finnish manufacturer Kuivalainen. To replace the over sized pitot tube of the kit I ordered a Master Model brass tube. The decals for the Finnish Hawk are from the sets of Gal-decals and Avalondecals. I added the orange day-glow stripes to the tail from a Microscale sheet (the stripes were used for marking the adversary planes in combat exercises), I also scratched a lot of details, antennas, etc. that were seen in the Finnish Hawk versions. Unfortunately, the kit didn't include missile pylons that I would have liked to add to the model. For the FAF camouflage I used the following paints: Light Bronze Green FS24151 (Xtracolor Interior green, nro X117) Very Dark Drab FS24064 (Xtracolor Braunviolett, nro X210) Light aircraft grey FS26440 (Xtracolor Light Gull Grey, nro X137) The landing gear, the wells and the doors I painted with Revell's light grey SM371. For smaller details I also used Vallejo acrylics and Humbrol/Revell enamels.
    11 points
  12. Thought I’d post some pics of one that I finally finished today. It’s such a simple vehicle but I really enjoyed making and adding stowage. It was also a change to paint allied figures as nearly everything I get hold of is German! Thanks for looking… And here displayed alongside a Sherman in the glass display unit:
    10 points
  13. Hello. Something new. Cheers Mike
    10 points
  14. Here are the photos of my most recent model, the Eduard Fw 190A-8 (new tool) modifed into an A-9. I used the 14 bladed cooling fan, paddle bladed propeller and Aeromaster decals to make an Fw 190A-9 from Schlachtgeschwader 10. My only complain is that the swastika seems too big, but I didn't want to use the one from the kit.
    10 points
  15. Hi Pals, The model I share is the well-known and iconic JS-2 Stalin. The model is basically OOB, except for an added antenna, Eureka brand copper tow cables, and some PE cast markings on the turret. There are no major problems to review in its assembly, this being simple and quite fast to complete. The tracks are individual plastic link, (although it also included rubber ones, very good too), but although these have been more laborious to make, they are quite simple to manipulate, since the pieces are of a manageable size, with a finished of some saggy. The painting was not a big problem, this time, the chosen tone, I liked the first time, and then the process, the same as for other models, using oils and pigments. The bottom and side have dry mud-like pigments, and there is some dry vegetation at random spots. I hope you like it, and thanks for watching and commenting as always. Cheers and TC Francis. BLACK BACKGRPUNG:
    9 points
  16. Well, that is his namesake. No points for guessing who Winston is named for. Grant: the man, the myth, the barely housebroken. Last night after watching some extremely stupid reality TV with a friend in Boston over Zoom, I crept into the grotto and put in the IP, and then, in a moment of desperate courage, I glued the fuselage together. The wings are test-fitted, not glued on, and infuriatingly, it seems that only the fronts of the wing roots needed sanding down. As you can see, the kit actually closed up pretty well (aside from the intake, which is always going to be dicey on a kit like this -- anyone who's built the AZ P-40 has experienced excactly how awful they can get). A sufficiently sharp blade run along the seams should (hopefully) obviate much of the need for filler, inshallah. I still need to add a gunsight, as the kit thoughtfully omits one. It appears that in June of 1944, a Typhoon would likely have a MkIIL reflector sight, which at 1/72 scale looks enough like the MkII* sight (the distinguishing feature is a small adjusting knob for the angle of the glass pane -- to account for rocket drop-off -- on one side) for me to probably be able to get away with using one of my resin ones from Quickboost.
    9 points
  17. Ok. Made some headway this morning before I head off-island until Wednesday. There are some moulding issues that need to be fixed before one can combine the wing halves into one... There are a couple of spots like this. Once again...memories of the Finnish Mig-21...fettling required! Lugs... They come together... No real issues here except that there are no pins and so care needs to be taken with the glue and clamps. Odd little diagram...it takes a bit of finagling... But one ends up with this... And then the 'turbine' goes on the back, like this...eyeballing again. Some sanding was required to level off some edges. And I will leave it there until I come home next week. Some PPP will be needed. So far I find the kit easy to build and I am already looking forward to seeing it next to some other jets of the era. --John
    9 points
  18. Yes we Kiwis always call them Kitsets which also extends to things like Kit set furniture ...(Ie self assembly ikea style stuff ) . Of course the use of the term " kitset " could be a clue to the first subject but probably isn't . Some of us Kiwis still use such Olde Worlde phrases like Transfers ,Benzene Movie theatres and Radiogramme ! Also we have had hot water since 1986
    9 points
  19. * I edited the topic title because some models isn't in the 1/100 scale. Hello Guys from Sci-Fi. Live long and prosper... or may the force stay with you! I'm the new guy of forum, and I want show my sci models for you guys. My models are scratch, build with paper, cardboard, white glue (school glue), balsa wood, plastic pieces. First, I show the most recent model that I build, one AT-AT Walker. I guess that the weathering was "a little much" (I dont say this in english, sorry). It stay inside in the Dagobah swamp!!! .
    8 points
  20. Hi Chaps, Some time ago I decided to give another chance to this old kit. Plane was painted with Mr Paint RLM colors, water was made using AK Water Gel Transparent and resin figure of German pilot from Aires was added. The construction process can be seen in here: Would be great if you could subscribe and follow my channel Best regards, Robert
    8 points
  21. Hi All, I must have bought this kit about 35 years ago, no idea why. Something about it just appealed. However every time I pulled it out of the stash I would just look at it and put it back; not this time! The painting and decaling instructions are two pages of badly translated text with no pictures so I think it represents a machine from the 83rd Sentai based in Borneo in 1945 but with a little artistic licence thrown in regarding the colour of the spinner, tail markings and fuselage band. Any IJA experts feel free to correct me but understand I was working with Google and the kit instructions, so I know it's not perfect. The kit was another matter. Despite it's age it went together like a modern kit with only a little filler required. Interior detail was pretty good too. I only had to add seat belts, scratch built instrument panel and a pilot's seat. The wings were another area where it's age showed, fit was almost perfect but the landing and navigation lights were moulded solid so I had to replace those and the wing guns were replaced with aluminium tubing. The tail control surfaces were also separated and repositioned along with the tail wheel to add a little life. The decals were an absolute pig and I may have gone a little overboard with the chipping (my Wife's opinion) but I think it's not too bad. Anyway, I hope you like it and feel free to offer tips and advice for the next one. One more thing, can anyone recommend a model club in the Falkirk area? With COVID restrictions relaxing it would be nice to meet other modellers in person. Cheers. Who knew it was common for IJA pilots to only have lap belts?
    8 points
  22. Hello This model represents a Archer that serves in 7th Canadian Anti-Tank Regiment 1st Canadian Corps in Italy, 1944 The decoration is from the old Maquette model (a horrible model). I Hope you like it!
    8 points
  23. Hello all After a longer absence on BM, I would like to present more pictures of the Grant today. I must confess that this project strained my nerves - probably because I didn't like some things. One reason were the colours and the camouflage of the tank. So I decided to remove everything and repaint it completely. I hope I got the English colours right - I like it much better than before At the same time I continued to work on the figure-but because of the drying of the oil paints it went on slowly I hope the project will continue quickly, until then have fun with the pictures! MD new primer and postshading new colours from RC some highlights in acryl camo schemes masking finished decals oil dots chipping base colour for the burned out areas rust colour base different shades of rust and steel colours i will do the main work with oils and pigments. this is only the base colour... figure base painting in acryl acrylic base is done. shadows and ligths with glaze technique now oils the main work is finished, the details still follow. Finally, a matt coating is applied to enhance the shine of the oil colours. See you!
    8 points
  24. The wings are about ready to attach to the fuselage. I could have done this earlier, but I thought it would be easier to do the putty work on the nacelles first. Although it looks like I used more than a bit of putty, it wasn't too bad and the sanding/blending didn't take too long. It will be interesting to see how she looks with some paint. My first attempt at gluing a cowling onto a nacelle was not successful. The superglue bit too soon, before I had a chance to align properly. It ended up looking catawampus. I pried it off and re-sanded the surfaces. I needed a glue that works on resin but doesn't set up quickly. My five-minute epoxy is too thick so I needed something else. I decided to make a test, gluing two bits of the resin casting block together using Gators Grip Thin Blend. Surprisingly, the resulting bond was stronger than I thought - it took a bit to separate the two pieces. So, that's what I did - all four engine and cowling parts were glued onto their nacelles with what is essentially a photoetch and canopy glue. This gave me a lot of time to align the parts. I left them cure overnight, and then for added security I applied some really thin superglue into the tiny seam between the parts, and it spread all the way around with capillary action. As long as none of you guys smack it with a hammer (or I drop it) I think it will be OK. The cowlings were designed for the kit nacelles, not the Cobra replacements, and they are ever so slightly larger. But I think that's OK, as it results in a very small step (maybe 0.1mm or so) at the back of the cooling gills which I think looks nicer. I started to work on the waist turrets, knowing that I need to scratchbuild a tubular framework to support the bulletproof glass. It was then I realised I was out of small diameter styrene rod. Another online order - should be here in a few days. I also ran out of 400 grit sandpaper! I told you she was a putty queen. I decided to buy the good stuff this time since the cheap stuff I've been using doesn't last long when wet sanding, even though it's labelled wet or dry. Ya gets what ya pay for. You may also notice that I filled a few sink holes on the top of the wings. Sink holes are my life - along with ejection pin marks. I don't get out much. Cheers, Bill PS. All that walking and stationary bike riding that is part of my physio have resulted in ol' Navy Bird losing a few feathers - down 8 pounds.
    8 points
  25. Just saving my place for this GB, will be starting as soon as I finish the 1/32 Tempest. Will be an IAF bomb truck from the most desperate days of the October War (Yom Kippur) in 1973. Tamiya kit as the base, lots of photoetch and some excellent decals. Alan
    7 points
  26. This was my first large scratch build and it shows, but at least I learnt a lot from it. The body is made from square section drainpipe, the engine nozzles are square-to-round adapters. It has a wooden 'spine' onto which everything was glued and screwed. The details are greeblies from the spares bucket. Here is the before shot: Here she is on the bench: And here she is in action:
    7 points
  27. Chipping and some detail painting. Need to add a little more dust/grime on the horizontal surfaces then I can start to button it all up
    7 points
  28. The Antonov An-225 Mriya (Ukrainian: Антонов Ан-225 Мрія, lit. 'dream' or 'inspiration'; NATO reporting name: Cossack) is a strategic airlift cargo aircraft that was designed by the Antonov Design Bureau in the Ukrainian SSR within the Soviet Union during the 1980s. It is powered by six turbofan engines and is the heaviest aircraft ever built, with a maximum takeoff weight of 640 tonnes (705 short tons; 1,410×103 lb). It also has the largest wingspan of any aircraft in operational service. The single example built has the Ukrainian civil registration UR-82060. A second airframe with a slightly different configuration[1] was partially built. Its construction was halted in 1994[1] because of lack of funding and interest, but revived briefly in 2009, bringing it to 60–70% completion.[2] On 30 August 2016, Antonov agreed to complete the second airframe for Airspace Industry Corporation of China (not to be confused with the Aviation Industry Corporation of China) as a prelude to commencing series production.[3] The Antonov An-225 was initially developed as an enlargement of the Antonov An-124 to transport Buran-class orbiters. The Antonov An-225 was designed to airlift the Energia rocket's boosters and the Buran-class orbiters for the Soviet space program. The most difficult thing in the work was of course to cut out and make an imitation of slats and flaps in take-off mode.
    7 points
  29. Hi All after long time not making models, again got some free space to finish one. I planned to do this version of MIG for a long time, as it really differs with its crazy non standard colors. As i understand information from the web, this plane was shown in fresh colors to ‎Kim Jong-un for one of his birthday, with interesting detail, text under cockpit in red squares. Model is old Italeri, with some upgrades: riveted surfaces (quite visible on mig-s, replaced nose cone, replaced models intake covers with new made from plastic, added details in cockpit. Colors AK acrylics...mixed to get closest as possible to real thing, decals Dream Model. Very light weathering as i can not imagine that somebody leave dirt on plane during visit . So it is finished, i do not like MIG in this colors, but i am happy with overall look of this old mold. Till next post, wish you all happy modeling time. And at the end, compare image with referent photo from the net:
    6 points
  30. While the paint is busy drying fully, I added the lower GT350 stripe stripe on one side to see how it looked. I'm not sure. It looks a bit stark like that but might cheer up once the window frames are added. I also tried the hood stripes but gave up on them pretty quickly. They looked very distinctive and I like the look. Nasty decals to use though, a bit stiff and grabby. There are loads of them to apply as well, and I think painting them on will give a better job. Hmmm... white stripes over red paint. What could possibly go wrong? A couple of barrier coats of clear will be added before the stripes in the hope of preventing the stripes going a bit Brighton on me. The chassis got more assembly and paintwork added and it's pretty much done. I might add fuel lines and brake pipes and cables but things look quite busy as it is, so maybe not for this build. The engine got assembled and paintwork started. A humbrol mid blue with a french blue oil paint scrubbed in to darken it a bit got applied to the engine. Gearbox finished with black base and dark metal polishing powder over that. Linkage in silver paint. There's more to add yet, but a bit of drying time won't hurt. I'm definitely going with the Cragar SS wheels for the car, they suit it down to the ground. The doner Charger is shown in the background here. That one will now get stock wheels and red line tires. I very nearly started work on that one, but sanity prevailed and I got back in the Mustang groove. That's all for now folks, and work here stops for a few days at least. I want the paint as hard as it can get before final polishing happens and the various oil finishes all need a while to dry properly. I'll be boxing this one up and getting on with the Hertz pair and the Blue Meanie. A group shot of the builds so far mark this point in the GB for me. So far so good, things are going well and steady progress is being made. Pip Pip!
    6 points
  31. More happy with the shape evolving out of this area now I have the vent in. Cheers Anthony
    6 points
  32. I airbrushed the red for the Hinamaru. I didn't post photos 4 months ago, but I had primered with Mr. Surfacer 1500 gray. When I did my Ki-61 Tony, I had to paint the Hinamaru on, and it was so thick to get the red the right color that there was a ridge all around the outside. This time I'm going to try to avoid that. First, I made some mottling with a dark gray I had, and then sprayed Testors Insignia red enamel, which made a horrible mess of my airbrush, pipettes and thinner jar. Jeez, that stuff is really hard to clean up! But, here they are. You'll note on the Tojo that I painted red on the tails and the leading edge of the wing around the guns. This was Testor's Ford Engine Red enamel. Next steps are to paint the ainti-glare on top, the Yellow leading edges, then mask all of those and the Hinamaru and paint the white "Bandages" around the Hinamaru. Then I will mask the "bandages" and it will be time for the main coat of paint. The Tojo will have the same colors as the Frank I did last November (TS-30 Silver leaf, and Alclad white aluminum). The Frank has been difficult, but I think I have it figured out. The Aviation of Japan blog is a gold mine of info. I read what they had to say about Ki-84 colors and I think Mr. Color H129 Dark Green (Nakajima) over bare metal bottom is the way to go. So a good start back at the bench.
    6 points
  33. Well I am boxing on even after the news of new Phantoms in 1/32, Nothing seems to suggest a Brit one so I am cracking on... Cheers Anthony
    6 points
  34. Here's my Aeropostale Caudron-Simoun, nice and blue! Neat little kit. Loads of possibilities for markings, scratch building, etc...I went OOB. Happy about it too. I'll build it again as St.Ex... WiP here... --John
    6 points
  35. Hello Colleagues, I don't know if it's allowed to post Luftwaffe models from the "What if?" section on the forum. This is the first time I've tried to work with resin. My impression is mixed. On the one hand, it seems to be good to work with, on the other hand, I am worried about its brittleness. But as the saying goes, you can get the hang of it. But in principle for a change and improve (acquisition) skills, even useful. Model built in the flying state (since the project is a paper, who knows how they should be all these braces and mechanics of cleaning?) Of the modifications: the cockpit with the pilot from Zvezda, wing fairings with cannons (presumably 20mm) and the PVD on the nose. The stand is also from Zvezda. Since there was no prototype (because it's alternative!), decided to "paint" in African paint scheme (with addition of imitation camouflage) and II._JG1 Oesau heraldic decals. Aircraft assigned (II._JG1 Oesau, North Africa, Libya, Ain El Ghazalah airfield, October, 1946) Paint and varnish with brushes. Paints: GSI Mr.Color urethane-acrylic, Tamiya varnish, futura, +plain pencil. Enjoy watching!
    5 points
  36. There's still a bit of wishlisting going on, so I'll say it again only in a large red font This is NOT a wishlist thread Please discuss the company, and known products, and if you're so minded, wish them well. Good luck with your new venture guys!
    5 points
  37. Though the Canberra R&D fleet were standardised as B.6 equivalent the cockpit were far from standard. The main instrument panels were often in later days grey not black. As for the seats other than Aeroclub non of the aftermarket people have made an accurate Mk.2cs you'd be better working on the kit seat to improve the detail on that. If you have a look at the cokpit and seat albums on my site they will give you an idea of what things should look like. IPMS UK Canberra SIG. John
    5 points
  38. Apologies Mick for taking so long to reply. No progress on the Kangaroo at the moment, but it hasn't been shelved indefinitely. It just got sidelined in the move to the new modelling room. I hope to get some more work done on it in the not too distant future. In the meantime. I decided to make it a bit harder for myself by using the kits headlamp brush guards. They are too thick, so using various files, sanding sticks and scraping with a sharp blade, they were reduced down to something a bit more acceptable., I removed the rear, angled support and replaced them with some 10x30 thou strip. Once in place, I was reasonably happy with them. I just need to add some Milliput around the bases for the weld beads. Although the tank in this kit has T48 rubber chevron tracks, it still includes on two of the sprues, six T54E1 steel chevron track links along with the brackets to mount them on the front of the glacis. So I made up two sets of three. Before adding the brackets, I removed the end pins because they were so undersized, and so that I could clean up the mould lines on each end. I then added new pins. Sounds convoluted, but it was easier this way. These were then glued in place, and the casting mark added to the centre of the glacis from the Archer set. Following some good advice from Das Abteilung, I attempted to alter the forward track guards. It would appear that the ones included in the kit were more commonly seen on welded hull M4s and not cast hulls. So the moulded crease was cut down to size and a join line scribed across at the half way point. Three rivets were added just forwaard of the join lines. The rivets where the guards join onto the hull were removed and a weld seam applied, using thin stretched sprue. Finally, the two triangular fillets were glued in place. I've also made a start on the turret, but I'll leave that until it's tidied up a bit. Thanks for looking and any comments. John.
    5 points
  39. In order. 1. MH drawings and Modelsvit Yak-9's kits are one and the same, their author is Viktor Bogatov. This is the best work on the topic to date. 2. The best and largest researcher on Yaks is Sergei Kuznetsov, he is an official employee in the position of archive keeper at the Yakovlev Design Bureau. But, he has not yet published any work on the Yak-9s. 3. Nikolai Yakubovich is an honored historian and popularizer from the old age group, but his work is more about the wide history of aviation than about the subtle moments of some specific aircraft.
    5 points
  40. Wife in supermarket: You can put that case of beer back, we can't afford it. Me: Well, what about this jar of face-cream for you? Wife: That's to make me look beautiful! Me: That's what the beer's for!
    5 points
  41. Last night... This morning... The pieces fit together pretty well. There are some small gaps to fill with PPP along the wing roots and on the underside, but for now I will leave it until Wednesday... --John
    5 points
  42. Hello fellow modellers, the build of the C11 continues but a bit slow. The instrument penal is completed. The next thing is to build the chassis. The chassis is a large sheet of resin (14 inches long, 7 inches wide) and it is not difficult to deal with. Just sand it and paint it black. The application of aluminium foil to the engine compartment requires some tricks. The aluminium foil is self-adhesive and is not easy to handle. If they are pasted directly to the chassis then the re-positioning of which will not be possible and wrinkles/damages are certain to occur. I add a few drops of detergent to water and apply it to the chassis and the detached aluminium foil with brush in order to temporarily reduce the adhesiveness of the latter so that I can re-position them until they sit correctly. Toothpicks are used to expel the water underneath the foil by moving towards their edges and to iron the wrinkles. Aftermarket rivets are applied to the chassis. Here’s some photos with the cockpit sits on the chassis. Then come to the construction of the exhaust pipes. One end of the exhaust pipe is connected to the engine and the other end is connected to the turbocharger. The position of the four insertion pins of each side of the exhaust pipes is fixed by the engines’s resin parts. Parts are put together by solder and supplemented by CA glue. Solder is applied at the bottom of the exhaust pipes so that they are not visible after installation. It would be very difficult, if not impossible, to construct the exhaust pipes after the completion of the engine. The exhaust pipes, together with the turbochargers and the intercoolers, will be attached to the model when the engine, gearbox and the roll cage are installed at a later stage. Here’s the end of this update. I shall build the engine, gearbox and the rear suspension system and hopefully to present them to you soon. Thanks for watching. Kenneth
    5 points
  43. Motor-car! There’s another tautology (still sometimes heard in NZ) Who builds a car without a motor? And yes; my dad and I always used to finish our ‘kitsets’ by putting ‘transfers’ on them. Some peasants used to call them ‘stickers’ but we would always correct those poor backward souls. Decals???? Probably something NASA was working on.
    5 points
  44. Thanks for everybody! I will organize one step by step and post it! I have some images in computer to this. More two models. Westland Wasp 1/100 - English SAR/Rescue during Falkands War, 1982 (as if I need explain this to a english modeler... ) Aermacchi/Aeritalia/Embraer AMX A-1 1/100 - Brazillian/Italian Attack aircraft project; this model used by FAB (Força Aére Brasileira - Brazillian Air Force).
    5 points
  45. First coat of Hobby Color H54, in a second time I will do some glazes of H55 to make darker and shiny
    5 points
  46. Hi all. Here is my latest finished model: Hobbyboss' beautiful 1/48 A-10A Thunderbolt. Several aftermarket sets were used: Eduard pe exterior, Master gun and pitot tube, Aires cockpit and Maverick missiles and Print Scale decals. I painted the model with MrHobby acrylics over Alclad black primer. Weathering was done with Abteilung 502 oilpaint. Thank you for watching. René van der Hart
    5 points
  47. ...and here's another. This one is from the Cold War, the Finnish racer from 1950. I am happy that SH released this in 1/72nd. The decals are stunning and fit like a glove. Overall, the kit is the same as the AZ Model kit with some PE added. Very nice and I recommend ti for anyone who e=wants to built tis particular aircraft in The Gentleman's Scale. WiP is here... --John
    5 points
  48. Thanks Pat. I nearly ended up there too! Care was taken...good warning... Decal time...actually it's finished now. I am just playing catch-up... They look good so far. I'll let them dry and add a glossy coat and call it finito, and into the gallery. Here's a finished look... Up next...Fokker DR.1 and a Super Mystére B.2... --John
    5 points
  49. Bears repeating, as almost everyone seems to be ignoring this post. Paul.
    5 points
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