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  1. Hello, this is my Wingnut Albatros D.V. Lozenge decals are from Aviattic, while the figure comes from the Copper State range. Wood panels were painted with oils over an acrylic base.
    35 points
  2. Junkers Ju 52/3mg7e of VII Fliegerkorps, Russia, winter 1943-4.
    32 points
  3. Golden Age - Percival Vega Gull and DH 60T Moth Dora Wings and A-Model 1:72 As these two come from the same era of the 1930's I thought I'd combine them into a single post. The DH 60T kit was reviewed a few years ago here but I only recently got around to building it. (And I've just noticed I still need to fit the windscreens!) The Vega Gull is the new Dora Wings kit, which I could not resist due to the outstanding box art. I chose the 1:72 version (it is also available in 1:48) because I knew it would go with the DH 60T and the Airfix Tiger Moths I have already built. They are very small models, and don't take up much space. The DH 60T in 'Aeroclub De Santos' markings from Brazil. The kit instructions show it in overall red, but I found a photo showing it with much lighter wings, presumably silver. The Vega Gull in Alex Henshaw's Markings The box art that sold the kit to me! And finally, all together, Tiger Moth, DH 60T and Vega Gull. Thanks for looking John
    26 points
  4. Hi all, just finished the new GasPatch Me 163 Komet in 1:48. Just an amaizing kit, I built OOB.
    26 points
  5. Hi There, I picked this up recently and got to building quite quickly. It all fitted very well with very little filler used. I fancied doing a Cuban version. Would this version have had The Cuban Flag Tailplane, Bombs and the wing fold utilised. Probably not but I wanted it this way. Transfers: Xtradecal X48175 Hawker Sea Fury Collection. Primed with Tamiya XF-53 Neutral Grey. Painted with Tamiya XF -62 Olive Drab, X-18 Semi-Gloss Black,Tamiya XF-2 Flat White, Tamiya XF-08 Flat Blue, Tamiya LP-21 Italian Red, XF-85 Rubber Black, Colourcoats Buff masquerading as Hawker Yellow and Extreme Metals Aluminium. Pre-shading was done with Tamiya XF-89 Dark Green 2 and then mottling for variation was done with Tamiya XF-57 Buff. Exhaust staining with Tamiya Weathering Master and washed with Flory Dark Dirt and Citadel Nuln Oil Finished with Windsor & Newton Matt Varnish for the Fuselage and Satin for the Spinner and Propeller. Thanks for looking, Cheers, Alistair
    18 points
  6. It really is one of the best $14 kits you can buy. Is it the best 1/72 Skyhawk? Not a chance. But for the price it can't be beat, especially as a quick build. Most of the kit fits pretty well. There are fit issues with the air brakes so I recommend showing them deployed. Also the canopy doesn't fit quite right where it pivots at the top of the fuselage. All out of the box with a few missing final touches: No nav lights are painted and the gear doors are missing the signature red outline. Just got lazy at the end of the build and wanted to move on. This was used as a test bed for a few pre/post shading techniques. You can view this kit and more on my website www.foxtwomodels.com
    15 points
  7. The 1:72 Airfix MiG-17F built in East German markings using Xtradecals decals sheet No X72313. Not the easiest kit to build, especially around the intake. Also my attempts at stopping it being a tail sitter probably didn't help. The wing pitot tubes dod not last long either, so were replaced... Colours used was SMS PMT09 Aluminium. The Xtradecals decals went on great. Build Progress Video
    14 points
  8. The 1:72 Hobbyboss kit of the MiG-15UTI built in Finnish markings using Kanga decals sheet No 72-017. This built did not go to plan as it seems the fuselage parts might have been a bit warped and so the wing to fuselage joins weren't that good. Adding to that this kit is a tail sitter. Despite stuffing more weight down the intake, it's finely balanced, the slightest movement and it's on it's tail... Overall SMS PMT09 Aluminium. No issues with the Kanga decals. Build Progress Video
    12 points
  9. Hi all, Here is the third and last (for now) AT-33A of my current series of Latin T-birds. Like my previous Uruguayan and Dominican builds she is the excellent Platz kit. As I said previously, this kit goes together perfectly with little filling or fit issues. She is built as “TF-808”, an AT-33A and operated by the Escuadron de Combate 2112, Fuerza Aerea Ecuatoriana (Ecuadorian Air Force) based at Taura Air Base near Guayaquil. The Ecuadorians acquired 36 T-33s from 1956 onwards. Eventually the remaining machines were camouflaged and finally retired in 1995. Like all my builds I try to research as best I can but in this case I came against blanks at every turn. In Ecuadorian style of the time the “last three” of the serial was taken from the last three of the US serial. Unfortunately there were a few ‘808s! So, no real history although I know that TF-808 still exists as a preserved airframe in Ecuador. I based the build around this image: What did I do/use? Platz T-33 1/72 Kit built out of the box Painted with Humbrol Enamels – 27001 Metalcote Aluminium overall, 33 Black wing tank halves, 153 Insignia red/154 Insignia yellow/189 Insignia blue for the tail flag, 60 Scarlet for the nose, 226 Interior green, 147 Grey and a few sundry others. Finished with Humbrol Glosscote and Mattcote. Nose guns from half-round Plastruct rod Wing pylons from plastic card Decals were a mix of: 1) wing roundels from a Xtradecal Strikemaster sheet 2) home drawn and printed nose Esc 2112 badge 3) adapted and home printed internet image of the Taura wing badge for rear fuselage 4) home printed serial and wing “FAE” 5) Spanish language stencils from a Microscale Latin T-33 sheet. 5) wing way decals and red lining from the kit. Panel lined and dirtied up a little with Flory dirt and then a few swipes of Tamiya Weathering sticks here and there. I hope you like her. Martin
    11 points
  10. Here is my finished Zvezda Boeing 737-8 Max in 1/144 scale. This is in the ‘protective layer’ fresh from the production line and in British Airways livery, though they don’t actually operate this variant, it is used by Comair in South Africa under the BA livery (ZS-ZCA). It was a standard OOB the build with the detail sheet supplied by Authentic Airliner Decals. The kit is straight forward enough to build and is great for little details at the same time! As this was a build designed to show the aircraft in its post production state the paint used was Halfords Racking Grey all over. I used Revell 361 applied lightly with streaks for the high impact primer layer on the engine nacelles. Various Revell Aqua colours for the metals. The detail sheet from AA was excellent and very true to life. It was like completing a jigsaw puzzle the way the pieces all interlocked and joined! I have always wanted to do a model in this way and when I saw this sheet I knew it had to be done! I can only hope I’ve done this excellent sheet some justice. It’s tempting me to convert a 737-8 Max to a 737-7 Max just to do the other scheme. Thank you for looking and as always feedback and comments are always welcomed. I am on a roll with getting these projects that have been sat around for a long time completed! Regards, Alistair
    11 points
  11. Frame shape. Any other. Unfortunately, I cannot say which frame is closest to the original one. I chose the Fujimi frame for further work, but only because I like it the most I compared the set rims. The ones from the Gunze set are the best. They have the disadvantage that their diameter is smaller than that of the Revell or the Fujimi. Accordingly, the tires would also have to be Gunze. And here is the problem, because the quality of these tires is, to put it mildly, poor. Revell's tires are more suited to an off-roader than to a sports car. The only possible option is Fujimi tires. The rims will be metal by KA-Models. The spokes are photo-etched, but so delicate you can't see they're flat. The manufacturer makes them in versions for the following models: Fujimi, Revell and Italeri. This is a Revell version, so it will be necessary to add a suitable hub. I will use one Gunze rim with a Revell tire for a spare wheel. Initially, I made wheels with lids with a yellow Ferrari logo: However, after comparing with the photos of the original (I think), I changed the caps to the following: The caste has been cut out a bit (this is not the end of cutting I covered the cut elements with 0.2 mm polystyrene strips. To be continued....
    11 points
  12. Hi all This is Gavia's 1/48 La-7, built OOB using the kit markings for an aircraft of the Czechoslovak air force. The Czechs received a number of La-7s from the Soviets at the end of the war, which they continued flying until around 1950. Quite a good kit, fairly simple, although I think the undercarriage oleos have been cast at full extension (ie un-weighted), which makes the model sit slightly nose-high. Probably fixable, but I didn't try. I also made a mistake mixing up two of the roundels - as I understand it the red section should face either inwards (on the wings) or downwards (on the tail) - silly error, mainly because I didn't bother to check first. I'll get it right next time
    11 points
  13. My wife brought me this for my birthday, as I was off for the week I decided to set myself a birthday challenge and try to build and finish the kit within that week off. I am pleased to say I managed to do it. I started it last tuesday and put the matt coat on last night. It was nice to build a kit without adding any photoetch or resin etc and just enjoy what is in the kit itself. The only addition was a spare resin seat I had in the spares box (not the correct seat but looks ok under the closed canopy) and the air probe on the wing was broken in my boxing so I used a bit of brass wire. The kit is nice and I liked the touch of having the air intake cover and exhaust cover provided. The only down points I thought was that the detail on the fuselage halves is a bit soft and the detail in the cockpit is not great. It is made up of 3 black and white decals which look a bit rubbish given the detail in the rest of the kits. I hope you like it. I decided to paint the yellow and green squadron markings and was pleased with the result (particularly that my masking for the fuselage markings was correct when it came to add the roundel decal) DSC_0100 by Richard Page, on Flickr DSC_0104 by Richard Page, on Flickr DSC_0105 by Richard Page, on Flickr DSC_0106 by Richard Page, on Flickr DSC_0110 by Richard Page, on Flickr DSC_0111 by Richard Page, on Flickr DSC_0112 by Richard Page, on Flickr DSC_0118 by Richard Page, on Flickr DSC_0107 by Richard Page, on Flickr
    10 points
  14. As my fourth instalment of my "Hawker Hurricanes around the world" project, and my first representative from Europe, here is a Polish Air Force Hawker Hurricane Mk. I. Poland's initial order of Hurricanes was shipped in summer of 1939, but were much too late to enter service. The only documented serial number I have seen for one of these Hurricanes is L2048, so I am assuming the L2045 on mine is an error and should have been L2048. But, I suppose it is also possible that one of the Polish Hurricanes was L2045 (in which case it later ended up in RAF service, because I have seen a photo of L2045 in France in 1940). Regardless, I am unaware of any photos of any of the Hurricanes in Polish Air Force markings--whether L2048, L2045, or otherwise--so mostly this is based on assumptions. @GrzeM was able to let me know the documents indicate a three-blade prop, which was helpful because I was going to use a Watts two-blade! This is the AZ model Mk. I early kit, which proved the most challenging kits of the four I have now built (Arma Mk. I; Airfix Mk. XII; AZ Mk. IV). It does have the Polish Air Force decals (and also Yugoslav and Italian which I am excited to use!), which was the main reason I bought it. Believe it or not I spent more on this kit (with shipping) than any of the other 20 Hawker Hurricane kits I've bought (even Arma's Expert sets!). In the end, I stole parts from Airfix (prop and spinner, windscreen, carburetor intake, UC doors, rear wheel, decals), Arma (canopy, 5-spoke wheels), Fly (exhaust stacks), and another AZ kit (the Mk IId's landing lights) to make this come together. Frankly, after all of that, I'm happy with how it turned out! Incidentally, while completing this I celebrated my one year anniversary of adulthood modeling! Here are photos of my first four Hurricanes altogether representing North America (USA - Airfix Mk XII [actually Royal Navy, but US markings for Operation Torch]); Europe (Poland); Australia (Arma Mk I); and South America (Argentina - AZ Mk IV). WIP for the project is here: And other RFIs:
    10 points
  15. You started something there Cookie... See wot I mean I still blame you Cookie! Putting idea’s in people’s heads. Especially notorious characters with ‘previous’ I’m doomed... To be the subject of Piftake for ever See what I mean? That’s a thought. See further below....... Well I’m glad you’ve got some Bill....... As it happens..... Whilst rummaging in search of some white decal paper I knew I had - to have a go at home brew printing of P8 compass face - I found some old Airscale 1/48 WW2 instrument decals I didn’t know I had Have no memory of buying them at all.... Useful though! No magnets, revolving or gimbaling I’m afraid tho’ chaps Immediately after this photo was taken the compass thingy tried to sacrifice itself to the carpet monster and most of the modelling session I’d been looking forward to this evening was spent rescuing it........finally..... Then in the limited time left to me this evening, and whilst I had decals on my mind, I punched out a 1mm white disc from a spare roundel decal - to represent the white disc on the IFF remote controller (greeblie) - neater than trying to paint it in: We’ll just forget that there’s a red quadrant on the white disk at 1:1 - Ok? And also punched out a circle of black decal and cut it to shape for the label behind the fuel tank pressure switch (greeblie) to the lower right side of the IP. Again neater than my efforts at painting it would be..... Fitted some 0.5mm rod into holes drilled into the thicker rod I’d previously glued to thre bottom of the footrests - to make a more secure fixing to the rudder pedals. Drilled some corresponding holes and fitted the footrests (airbrushed Tamiya flat aluminium lacquer and treated with a Flory wash): And added my home-brew firewall and the Aires control column suitably painted and given a Flory wash (poor photo - sorry - the control column looks brighter and neater in the flesh....trust me, I’m a lawyer . Finally, painted the scratched IFF and VHF radio boxes black, drybrushed them and fitted them. To be glimpsed at best when the fuselage is zipped up..... I also wasted time losing one of the HGW harness lap straps to the carpet monster for a while....talk about being clumsy tonight.....
    10 points
  16. Here is the second in my line of Latin T-birds. I still have two Platz T-33s in the pile! As you can see she is depicted as “3304” of the Fuerza Aerea Dominicana (Dominican Air Force), and was one of four machines acquired in 1956 and operated briefly (until 1958) by that force. The US Mission withdrew them in 1958 and they were supplied to Brasil. The Dominicans went through the same again in 1967 when they acquired two ex-USAF machines and those, too, were withdrawn by the US for similar reasons. With the FAD during the time of my model they were operated by the Escuadron Ramfis from Trujillo Air Base. At the time the force operated a wide variety of types, such as ex-Swedish Mustangs and Vampires, Thunderbolts, Mosquitoes, Invaders and many others. They were generally painted in bright colours but sadly this didn’t extend to the T-33 fleet. Like my earlier Uruguayan build, this is the excellent Platz kit. My model is based on the following image: What did I do/use? Platz T-33 1/72 Kit built out of the box Painted with Humbrol Enamels – 27001 Metalcote Aluminium overall, 33 Black wing tank halves, 153 Insignia red/189 Insignia blue/34 White for the tail flag, 60 Scarlet for the nose, 226 Interior green, 147 Grey and a few sundry others. Finished with Humbrol Glosscote and Mattcote. Nose guns from half-round Plastruct rod Wing pylons from plastic card Decals were a mix of: 1) wing and fuselage roundels from a Colorado P-47D sheet 2) Ramfis unit badge from a Hobbycraft P-51B kit 3) home printed serials 5) Spanish language stencils from a Microscale Latin T-33 sheet. 5) wing way decals and red lining from the kit. Panel lined and dirtied up a little with Flory dirt and then a few swipes of Tamiya Weathering sticks here and there. I hope you like her. Martin
    9 points
  17. Hi all! Well the next one rolls out of the paint shop in the form of a Lockheed AT-33A Shooting Star, depicted as she was when operated later in her life with the Fuerza Aerea Uruguaya (the Uruguayan Air Force). Over time the FAU operated 11 of these machines from Durazno Air Base in the centre of the country, with 2 more acquired for spares. “207”, originally a T-33A-20-LO, she was 53-4919 in USAF service and was operated in Uruguay from 23/07/1969 to 05/06/1997. She went on to be one of the last that was operated by the air arm. The T-33s in Uruguayan service had many schemes. Originally they were flown in natural metal finish with the usual national insignia and a unit badge on the port side, for the Grupo de Aviación Nº 2 (Caza). This unit continued to operated them in US-style SEA camouflage, and then Green and Grey camouflage (like US ‘Lizard’). The last machines received were operated in the ADC grey that they had on arrival, and at least one (“209”) flew with “US AIR FORCE” titling still visible on the nose. For this build I have tried to get as close as my old hands would allow to this: I used a little “modeller’s licence” for the camo pattern. The kit is the excellent Platz T-33A kit. I made some errors because I was rushing but I think I got away with it. She is pretty much OOB apart from the markings and the seats. So, what did I do/use?: Platz T-33A Shooting Star kit 1/72 True Details resin seats Mimicked the guns with half round 0.8mm Plastruct rod I added wing pylons from an Airfix F-80 The paints used were Humbrol enamels throughout – the regular 116/117/118/28 (Green/Green/Tan/Grey), plus Black, Flat Aluminium (27001), Gunmetal. Mattcote overall. The decals are Aztec (T-37 wing roundels). I printed the serials, the checkerboard, the unit badge and tail flag on a mix of clear and white decal sheet. Other stencils etc were from the kit and a Microscale Latin Air Forces set for the T-33. From the image above the serial font appears more RCAF than USAF so I went that way, right or wrong. Weathered with Flory Dirt and Tamiya Weathering powders I hope you like her. Thanks for looking. Martin
    9 points
  18. Quick update! Have painted some wooden boxes and sprayed the oxygen bottles yellow. The other fuselage half is also masked and ready for the floor to be painted dark green
    9 points
  19. Hi all, As the magazine has just about finished selling now, I can show you some scenic photos of the Blenheim that appeared in this month's AMW. Fuelled up and tooled up, ready for ops in the Greek sunshine, 1941: More conventional magazine shots: Period style: Hope you like it, Dean
    8 points
  20. ...in 1/144 scale. Hi y'all! Felt like building a jet. Quickly though, it's only a jet. Something small, and fast. Took me longer than I thought though... But here it is. Hope you'll like it. Ciao Iwik
    8 points
  21. OK, we're blaming you! Seriously though, I'm sad to see them go. They did have their issues with some simple mistakes in instructions and decal sheets mostly, but they were acxtively filling gaps in the marketplace that a lot of us wanted. They also suffered from a lot of "chicom" bias from some quarters, and there were more than a few people that would go out of their way to rubbish their products. We've seen people join specifically to do that, and stomp off in a huff when we don't let them say downright nasty things about a company that's never done them any harm I hope things work out well for them, and until we know that they are categorically and absolutely 100% shutting down, I'm not going to engage in any speculation, as it's just a waste of electrons.
    8 points
  22. Up very early this morning and thought the yellow was sufficiently dry so decided to crack on and get some other colours on. Masked the yellow. Gave it a black undercoat with Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 being careful to not load the edge of the masks. Marble coat with Mr Color C115 RLM65. And finished. Next the top coats. Ray
    8 points
  23. Mates, Just in case you wondered how that crazy nose gear worked, these photos should clear it up. First, the nose gear deployed (looking forward): Next, nose gear retracted: Simple, eh? And obvious, too. If you refer back to the drawing I posted above, the arm that goes from the top of the nose gear strut to the top of the actuator ram folds (bends, pivots) in the middle. The other pivot points are denoted by asterisks in the drawing. Once I realised what was going on, it all made sense. Also note how there is no "gear bay" per se - it's all pretty mush open space. These last two photos are from a B-24D but it is essentially the same for other variants such as the PB4Y. And, there is no bulkhead behind the nose gear, at least not one that my little construction can attach to. I'll have to fake it. It looks like the nose gear is securely anchored to structural members on the bottom of the cockpit and also at the bottom of the fuselage. I assume there is a bulkhead between the nose gear area and the bomb bay, but it's behind the camera in the last two photos. Cheers, Bill Resident B-24 Nose Gear Figure-Outer
    8 points
  24. Handley Page Jetstream G-AWBR was built in 1968 for a proposed order for the United States Air Force of 13 machines as the unique military C-10A/3M variant with stretcher carrying capability and a two part passenger/cargo door. The order was ultimately cancelled with the USAF citing late delivery and cost over-runs and Handley Page went bust around the same time. ‘WBR was withdrawn from use a year later and scrapped. Airfix rushed a model kit out of the 3M but sadly it turned out to be a one off! For more on the aircraft and Jetstream model - see here in the aircraft RFI section The only starring role that ‘WBR had was in the pilot episode (‘Identified’) of the Gerry Anderson live action TV science fiction series ‘UFO’ , 26 episodes of which were broadcast from 1970 – 1973 on ITV. 0B83F2FD-1589-4BC4-BDA8-AA4339A54C3E by Ben Brown, on Flickr In Episode 1 ‘Identified’ Colonel Ed Straker, commander of SHADO (Supreme Headquarters Alien Defence Organisation) arrives in WBR with a briefcase of intelligence on the UFO threat for a meeting with General Henderson and the British Prime Minister. He is met by Henderson’s Rolls-Royce and with motorcycle escort travels to London. The convoy comes under attack by alien forces… 5E6D76EB-01F4-4843-8913-41215CD869FA by Ben Brown, on Flickr The scene of Straker’s arrival was filmed at Radlett, Herts in 1969 where Handley Page were based. ‘WBRs till had traces of her USAF markings by the rear door. One of the motorcycle outriders in this scene is my stepmum's Dad- a chap called Jack Silk who was a stuntman in the 60s-70s doing everything from Bond to Where Eagles Dare - so I suppose he was my step-grandfather! https://m.imdb.com/name/nm0798021/ In any event you are limited with what you can do with the C-10A so I thought I'd recreate this scene from the TV show. Airfix kit (reissue) modified a bit with aerial fit and pitot - the car is an old toy Matchbox RR Phantom V repainted and detailled with driver and HMG Minister inside. Straker is on the steps with his briefcase, General Anderson is walking to the car whilst the stewardess and guard watch on. The bike riders are from the Airfix Recovery Set modified a bit - Jacks riding getup was a bit complicated to paint! Anyway -a bit of fun with a personal link - will be on display in the Sywell Aviation Museum with our own Jetstream G-RAVL to encourage you to buy an Airfix 'stream from our shop! Hope you enjoy it! ATB TT 3FB1A353-0213-4FF1-BA15-43EBED682997 by Ben Brown, on Flickr 25B2511A-14C2-4750-B8FE-7BA7D4A6B6FA by Ben Brown, on Flickr 88A2CB12-848A-4A32-9C8A-807F51B0F9BE by Ben Brown, on Flickr BCC58628-53AB-426A-B178-ACA65447FE7A by Ben Brown, on Flickr 933A37E4-7B0D-4817-B241-F889E2DB8D76 by Ben Brown, on Flickr
    7 points
  25. Really cant believe this kit has been in the stash for so long, came out in 2003,I did build the G-10 yonks' ago that is slowly collapsing under a blanket of dust on the top shelf, will be building in flight(which saves a fair amount of time as I don't need to go to town on the engine and under-carriage) Boxed up, will be adding the Legend Bf109 pilot resin figure What's inside The pilot figure Test fitting the figure, Trumpeter for some reason mold the head protection as a solid piece with no transparency for the Panzer glass, so will need to cut one and add It begins
    7 points
  26. Tim's Fujimi Cutlass, all £4.99 worth,
    7 points
  27. not got much done this week but the turrets are finish now other than adding the gun barrels and the chore of painting the bombs is now complete! The red bands were painted freehand but the green lines were from a decal sliced into thin strips. Getting there bit by bit. Who knows, a new kit might come out now I've nearly finished this...oh wait....
    7 points
  28. Gidday All, didn't I say I'll be fitting HMS Hood's spotting top next? I lied. (I think another Arnold said something similar a while back. ) Actually, I think I'm screwed. Well, I hope so anyway, I've spent the last couple of days making them. AFAIK all multi-screwed warships that I've made models of have left and right-turning screws, but annoyingly nearly all the Airfix kits that I've done have either one or the other, but not both. HMS Repulse is an exception. So I decided to try to make my own screws. The HMS Hood Association says that the screw diameter was 15 feet, which equates to 7.5mm at 1/600 scale. This is the size I've made them. The screw hubs are from Evergreen 2mm round stock and the blades are from 0.25 x 3.2mm Evergreen strips, no. 106. As you can see, one is still on the round stock. Perhaps I should have left them all on the stock for now. They need tidying up and painting, which would have been easier with something to hold onto. Oh well, I'll know for next time. For a first time (discounting my trials) I think they look OK. I'm happy with them anyway. I've included a couple of kit screws for comparison. And in case you were wondering, NO, I'm NOT going to make screws for the ship's boats! But maybe I'll get the spotting top done over the weekend. Well, that's it for now. Stay safe, and regards to all, Jeff.
    7 points
  29. Hi Steben, I've got originals of most of the US military color standards. I've two copies of the pre-war 3-1; one copy is showing the damage of acidic paper, migrating glues, and uneven storage, while the other set certainly suffers from the same effect, but appears much cleaner and undamaged. I've a set each of the permanent and temporary camouflage color card bulletins. Note that they continue the Quartermaster Corps' numbering system but were not part of 3-1. I've also got several copies of the May 1943 3-1, and several of the Air Corps, Navy, and ANA color standards. I can direct you to similar standards in the National Archives collections if you're ever in DC (and when they are able to reopen. As you noted all of the color matches were made with FS-595a, shortly before 595b came into common use. Though the credits in AFC-1 were unclear, the 3-1 matches were performed by Kenneth L. Kelly of the National Institutes of Standards. The AAF color matches came from the great Ross Whistler. The biggest problem with "raw" or "original" color standards is that none of them are really permanent. The paper- and card-mounted chips are subject to deterioration from acids, hydrogen peroxide (great for bleaching hair or fueling rockets), and the effects of the glues that hold them in place. Even the porcelain enamel chips suffer from the wooden boxes they were stored in - wood can off-gas hydrogen peroxide for decades. The color matches in the Air Force Colors books were provided to give a rough idea of original appearances; 595 was chosen because (at the time) it was a very inexpensive standard that was widely available. Being able to recognize that a color was, for example, redder than a 595 chip was never precise, but it was more helpful than a very general note that a color might be a very dark greenish brown. Hope this helps. Good luck with your color research! Cheers, Dana
    7 points
  30. Well, that will be be the last of the serie, but certainly the most interesting indeed. By 1941 Finland was part of the Axis, and ,as such, could not except any spare parts from Britain. As a matter of fact , the Mercury engined Fokker were in need of modernisation. The availability of US engines led to the transformation of the "Sarja" in something hybrid, but the Finnish air Force was in need of anything which could fly and fight! So the wasp engine Fokker was born! A different engine, a longer hood, different tail surfaces and rudder and that was it! Here are pics of the plane of Maj. L. Bremer in Syyskuu, in September 41. Best regards and mny thanks for those who shown an interest is this small but courageous nation aviation. 0398F902-4763-4AD7-B513-9B620C81D954_1_201_a by jean Barby, sur Flickr 7E84A554-81CD-4EB3-BB34-2DB701F1EDC9_1_201_a by jean Barby, sur Flickr 18FDC114-13CF-408F-99B4-6D5E84BB2A11_1_201_a by jean Barby, sur Flickr 6B7CC558-23AA-4A37-A8D9-33AE7D2D88CE_1_201_a by jean Barby, sur Flickr 3D72292D-9CB0-4700-BB52-CD4C238DA495_1_201_a by jean Barby, sur Flickr 9850B426-6088-4CDF-AF7F-FF24A4C2562D_1_201_a by jean Barby, sur Flickr 0F3BD0FC-CE74-499B-A4FC-2CA2C55AFF70 by jean Barby, sur Flickr
    6 points
  31. Hi fellow modelers, This is a tribute build dedicated to one of our club member, Mr. Zdeněk Bedřich, former Czechoslovak Airlines and sports pilot, great modeler and fellow, who passed away in 2014. On 12th October 1960 he set up the world speed record whilst flying this Let C-11 on closed circuits (3km and 15-25km) of 464 km/h in the trainers category, which lasted for several years and it is still valid up to now on the national level. The kit of the Let C-11 comes from RS Model and it was further enhanced with Brengun etched and Rob Taurus vacformed canopy. The civil registration OK-KIK was designed and printed on a laser printer by my fellow David Koktavý. The kit was painted with Gunze Aqueous paints in a light grey color according to Mr.Bedřich memories. Cheers, Libor
    6 points
  32. This is the K2 Ambulance from their emergency set. It's a very old mold that has been redone many times, so it shows its age in some areas. Overall, it goes together well and out of the box, makes a nice model. I added detail to the interior and the cab, added the folding steps at the rear and review mirrors and re-did the rear doors. I cut open all the vents in the body and doors and put glazing in the windscreen and window between the body and cab. I also added the canvas 'door' to the left side, but I'm not completely happy with its look.
    6 points
  33. This looked like it could have fallen through a wormhole from 1989. Un-badged 6-series automatic (so might have been merely a 628i). I don't usually like solid red but it suits the car and sets of the black trim perfectly.
    6 points
  34. Hi Bob, simple solution isn't it? Thanks Steve, it is coming together nicely. Turning out to be a most enjoyable deviation from usual Luftwaffe mottle. Thanks for the kind words, it certainly is pleasing thus far and even more so after the step just completed. Read on. Nice afternoon, perfect weather to finish the painting so onward. I decided to go with Dénes Bernád's research of RLM71, RLM62 and RLM65 and used Gunze Mr Color lacquers. The Bulgarian camouflage seems a simple splinter so I kept it that way, as best I could from the references. Finished the top colour with a little bit of Gunze H85 "Sail" (yes it is out of the aqueous line but still mixes well with their lacquers) mixed in with the base colour to represent some fading and scuffing and then it was time for the drum roll and remove the masks. Result? Very pleasing. "Life is like a scale model covered in masking tape ...... " A little bit of patching will be necessary on the top of the yellow stripe on the port side (darn, it will not be covered by the decal - "missed it by that much") and some over spray on the port elevator. The Bulgarian RLM62 scheme makes an interesting change swapping out the RLM02 or RLM70. I will leave this to dry overnight and then touch up the yellow and onto gloss coat and markings ... maybe ... might need to do a little thinking about whether the Kora decals have sufficient opacity over those yellow stripes. Ray
    6 points
  35. Well it's decal day with the excellent Hannants post war sheet and the common markings from the revell kit. Unfortunately some of the revell walkway decals silvered a little . Then I will seal them in a do some weathering. Model on boys
    6 points
  36. Hi All Here's the ICM 1/35 KHD Maultier half track truck. This was my first ICM kit and all went well apart from the strangely soft plastic it is moulded from. The chassis flexes a bit which has made the cab ever so slightly off. Overall an enjoyable build though. I used Tamiya Lacquer for the first time and its certainly a bit more durable than acrylic. The truck is meant to represent a vehicle of the workshop company of 24 Panzer division but the load itself may have some US items in there as I just raided the spares box for workshop type items. Unfortunately the link and length tracks are impossible to sag and I didn't want to resort to Fruils. Usual C&C welcome Cheers David
    6 points
  37. Propeller (from Airfix) attached, then I glued on Poland's windshield (from Airfix) and canopy (from Arma) such that it's something like a 1/4 open cockpit (the windscreen and canopy don't match up perfectly so couldn't be closed; nor does the canopy piece fit in the fully open position). Honestly I thought it would look better than it does with the two different pieces, but the original part's fit was ridiculous. I glued my make-shift antenna mast and dabbed some silver where the navigation lights are, and with that I'm calling Poland complete. RFI and an updated group photo to follow, but here she is in the backyard.
    6 points
  38. I may be retired but today was spent digging my sons garden so not much done on the 109, the fuselage has been glued together and the tail planes added, the rudder has just been pushed into place as it will be sprayed white. The engine block has to be added so the exhausts can be fitted. The wings went together without any problems and the wheel wells have been painted RLM 02, the gun pods have also just been pushed on as I intend to replace the solid plastic barrels with some brass tube. The wing and radiator flaps can positioned either up or down, I will be fitting them lowered, after I have cleaned up the ejector pin marks. I've learned the hard way so I don't make Trumpeter kits anymore.
    6 points
  39. Science Treasury Isuzu TX-40 Fuel Truck Only the second vehicle I've built in many years so really enjoyed it. Top tip buy the Hasegawa boxing as its molded better, has instructions that make sense without invented words, and you can follow them ! Cheers Pat
    6 points
  40. The Fiat G59 4 A and B single and two seater with low spine and Rolls Royce Merlin engine is my absolute favourite aircraft.It is the Pacific Coast Models 1/32 scale Fiat G55 with the resin conversion set from Maurizio Di Terlizzi.The landing gear was scratch built using brass tubes and sheet. Saluti Giampiero
    6 points
  41. Airfix Starter Set Cutty Sark Lidl £4.99 by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr
    6 points
  42. My workshop will be on the Ferrari 250 GTO. I am not sure which model I will choose yet: It would seem that the models of one car produced by different manufacturers will be similar to each other. It turns out that not really. I did a small comparison of the appearance of the F250GTO bodies made by Fujimi, Revell and Gunze. Below are some photos from this comparison: I leave the decision for later .....
    5 points
  43. I know what you're thinking, this shows no imagination and there will be blooming dozens of these during this GB. However as I'm posting first and it's another, cutting edge bang up to date kit from 1981, and it's got marking for an aircraft in North West India, I hope I will be forgiven. @TonyW is this another box I need to keep for you ? Good luck everyone ! Cheers Pat Edit: Title change, I'll include some clips from the film as the build progresses..... you have been warned !
    5 points
  44. Hello everyone, one of my latest builds, Boyington's Corsair. I thought the Revell kit is pretty good but fit is not great, it has some features of a D model (two racks for drop tanks) and some panel lines were too shallow and had to be rescribed. Also propeller was very wierd so I trimmed it to a better shape (still not perfect though) Lowered the flaps, was not very hard but I should have cleaned it up more I think Added PE set and vacu canopy, airbrushed with AK Real colors Chipping with hairspray, weathering with oil paints Let me know what you think, critique is welcomed Thanks, George
    5 points
  45. Hello all, I hope everyone is keeping well. This F-4J is built from the Tamiya kit, so there maybe a few inaccuracies in the final make up from the real thing, so apologies for that. It had been a 'thing' I have always wanted to build but sadly we don't have a good 1/32 F-4 that is suitable for the RAF except these of 74th Squadron that were directly imported from the US. Only add on were the smile lights that came from Eduard, painted with Gunze paints and all stores are fitted with magnets.
    5 points
  46. Another update,.... I still haven`t added that number 7 yet,.... and the spinner bands are very much a work in progress still... but I`ve done a bit more construction wise; Cheers Tony
    5 points
  47. Good grief this thing might actually work. Four struts and a lot of holes added to the front lower wing. Next step drill the upper front wing and attempt to attach it to the main assembly, I’m vaguely scared .
    5 points
  48. Missing? Aha a definition of a Fugitive Fritag if I remember right guv... Steve old mate it isnt craftsmanship, just dogged determination not to vanish from sight so something has to happen, occasionally. In the light of something, anything happening this is in process at the moment. Garden seat buses need garden seats Seven of the impossibly spindly things too, so. Seven sides of two different types, three sides opposite handed to the other four. The bars across the bottom screw to the aisle end of each bench , under the floor. Leads me to ponder whether there were many upended passengers as the bus was moving, people were assembling to get down the aisle to the stairs. The floor braces were right under the seat ends... Any road up, I hate it when this happens. Enough 015"x040" turns out not to have been enough Evergreen, hope Paul has some in stock... The components so far: Seat slats for another five buses to come. F1 Practice one is on and then shopping.
    5 points
  49. Hello everyone. I hope all is well and returning to normal. Subjective yes but hey! I've almost finished this build and I'm itching to start the next build so here is where I am to date with this one. On with the base. I like building my bases on oak plank and had a suitable piece kicking around. I used to buy this from my local builders merchant and thirty five quids worth will keep you stocked up for years if you build models at my pace or just one build if your into 1/35 railway guns. The terrain base is model foam board. The beige coloured section is better quality but for the life of me I couldn't remember the brand name and I've since run out of it so hence the difference. The putty is 'Perfect Putty', other brands available. The next step was a little redundant, airbrushing some colour, but shows the gouged out track depressions. I've never used this product before but found it 8/10 for ease of use. After some cutting and stretching to fit the base the matting is fixed with PVA. Following on I've added milliput to the track depressions and used the left over rubber band Tamiya tracks for texture. The edges have then been blended with Mig acrylic mud. Because the SU122 is so stealthy looking I didn't want a base that detracted from this. Originally my plan was something urban but the Russian Steppes suits it better I think. To create some height on the base I've simply added some tall grass. Using a cheap paint brush, tube and super glue will save a few pennies on aftermarket. Separate out the bristles before cutting from the brush with the tube. Once the ends are glued remove the tube and scrape the bristles with a blunt cutting edge and hey presto. Some shots once added. Whilst the colours of the grass are kind of OK they are shiny and I'm aiming for a more arid, dusty look so airbrushing and washes to the mud/soil were added. That is pretty much it for the base with the addition of some weathering powders that I also used on the vehicle to tie it all together. I've still some finishing touches to add so the next post on this will be in the finished model section. So for now this is it. Thanks for looking
    5 points
  50. Thanks Mike. The four-engine bombers aren't that heavy - this is 1:72 scale. Yeah, I don't fool around when it comes to my health. I go straight for the oddball stuff. They were hoping the physio would strengthen my core muscles enough to "pull" the errant vertebra back into place. Ha! It had other ideas. Plus, you actually need to have core muscles before you can strengthen them. Can't argue with that! Thanks Adrian. There will be as much resin in this model as there are bone screws and plates in my spine. Thanks Rog. I felt pretty good after surgery number 9, but it eventually deteriorated. That seems to be the playbook. I'm told my problems are due to degenerative causes, as opposed to an accident or something like that. In other words, I am old, my bones are tired, and they're not going to take it any more!! Keep looking for that Privateer - these Revell kits are pretty common on vendor tables at shows. Beats a Bud Lite! But then, anything beats a Bud Lite. How they can market a "beer" whose primary ingredient is ammonia is beyond me. ***** Yes, always save the leftover bits because you never know when they might come in handy. Like this, for instance: Four bits hacked off of leftover landing gear struts, one kit part, one resin wheel, a bunch of styrene rod, and some brass tubing. And, most surprising of all, this is actually quite solid. Once it is attached to the bulkhead (which I will have to create later) it should be fine. As I look through both PB4Y and B-24 reference photos, it looks like there are no "sidewalls" in the nose gear bay. It looks like there are canvas dividers that separate the nose gear from the crawlspace for the bombardier. Interesting, and something I probably won't try to replicate. D-day for hack 'n' slash number 10 is June 25. Cheers, Bill PS. Speaking of hack 'n' slash, I found a video of an actual retrolesthesis surgery online. Dear Gawd! I hate the Internet...
    5 points
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