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On holiday this past week so managed to complete another model. Been wanting to build one of the Polish Tiger Meet F-16's for quite a while now, so I got on with it & started the kit earlier in the year. The kit is my go to, for any 1/72 F-16 subject. Goes together with no problems & has a few extra parts for different variants. For the conformal tanks I used the Attack Squadron resin items. These had to be heated & bent to fit the fuselage as they were a bit banana shaped out of the box, but I eventually straitened them out by running scolding hot water over them, which did the trick. Also I knicked a Sniper Pod from the Tamiya kit. The F-16 I've got planned for that kit hasn't been seen flying with one! Everything else was out of the box. I ordered the Model Maker tiger masks for it as they had elements to cover the conformal tanks, but the only parts that stuck were the stripes for the underside & thankfully the Tiger heads on the tail fin, which worked perfectly. Everything else i used Tamiya tape, drew then cut out by hand using tracing paper from the masking set as a guide. I had to use a seperate Model Maker decal sheet for for the markings & stencils, which also came with markings that were applied to the intake & exhaust blanks so I thought it would be a crime not to use them. The blanks also hide the rough innards of the crude Revell intake & featureless insides of the kit exhaust. Paints used were from Ammo Mig. Thanks for looking Martin

Hi everyone, just finished my ICM Gloster Gladiator / AIMS J8 conversion, hope you like it. I am obviously not a bi-plane modeler as I went for the option of directly placing on top of the main wires a length of 0.5 rod, believing life was too short to try and drill into it 0.15 by 0.3mm back to back slots and then again in the middle and at the end - twice over - shoot me! Kit was built using the following.... AIMS Mk 1 engine set, upper ailerons, decals, Cockpit PE, bracing wires and external details PE, landing flaps PE, J8 conversion set, Gas Patch RAF turnbuckles x4 and a lot of scratch building. Model was finished using Xtracolour WWII Olive Drab and RAF Barley Grey and as indicated my AIMS decals. I will take some nicer photos once I have it on base, Thanks for looking -John

The most expensive kit with the most extras I’ve ever tackled. Painted in mostly Alclad airframe aluminium but weathered with the kitchen sink. Master Details pilots navigator & radio operator, brass gun barrels, magic scale modelling light & sound kit, brassin resin wheels. If you decide to watch the video at the end be sure to turn the sound up! Thanks for looking. She’s a bit of a modelling cliche but I love the scheme so here’s my main reference pic: couple of views from before I sealed her up Here she is in action

This is my model of Aer Lingus Boeing 737-200. I especially like the Irish airline's colourful livery with the green upper fuselage and the white shamrock on the rudder. In its time this scheme must have been a breath of fresh air amongst the rather conservative white fuselages of the 1970 and 80's I built the model from an Authentic Airliners 1/144 scale kit. The decals I used are from 26Decals, Nazca decals and Authentic Airlines decals.

After having to unfortunately leave my old house in a hurry, I lost nearly all my modelling supplies. My airbrush, paints, everything gone. As a result of this, for some time, I didn't think I'd ever go back to modelling...I considered it a lost hobby. Alas, that finally changed! A local modelling shop in the new place where I live had one of these in stock...and I just had to try it! I always loved the bright yellow scheme of the yellow jacks. So I grabbed this, some clearfix, decalfix, and sourced a can of Humbrol 69 spray can...and hey presto! Try not to be too harsh - I know there are a lot of faults....and I didn't have any filler either at the time (money is extremely tight) so there's a fair few gaps. I did a full review with more pictures on my website (which hasn't been updated since 2018....until today) - you can see that here.

Hello everyone, Yet another early Spitfire. Day after day my Spitfire collection expands and I pretend it s allright. This is 1/32 Hasegawa Spitfire Mk.IIa with the markings of “P7531 LZ-I” from 421 Flight in November 1940. Tones of modifications are: Yahu instrument panel Eduard seat belts Barracudacast seat Barracudacast cockpit upgrade set Eagle parts Mk.I oil cooler Eagle parts Mk.II propeller Barracudacast cockpit door Barracudacast wheels Quickboost exhausts Archer fine fasteners. Decals: 3D Kits Mk.II Spitfire set #32 D002 Paints : Gunze Sangyo acrylics Happy Modelling

Here is my take at two Vietnam Huns. Pretty straightforward builds using the Italeri kits with a bit of Eduard PE in the cockpits. As both kits only come with a closed canopy, I cut off the respective windscreens and built the canopy actuators from scratch. On the F-100F, I added the appropriate antennae under the nose/belly and on the tail fin, while drilling out the cooling intake on the tail, to portray one of the early Wild Weasels. I added a Shrike missile (which was typically carried on the port in-board position) and rocket launchers from the spares box (I believe from Italeri's A-10). The F-100D was armed with Hasegawa Mk.82s and M-117s from the kit (with some leftover fuse extenders). I also used a Taurus vacform canopy on this one, to correct the wrong Italeri canopy. Decals are from Caracal, with markings for: - F-100D no. 55-2932 “Nashville Sound”, 90TFS 3TFW, Bien Hoa AB (Vietnam), ca. 1968 - F-100F no. 58-1226, 614TFS 35TFW, Korat RTAFB (Thailand), December 1965 For the fun of it, I used two different sets of paint: the F-100D is finished in Gunze paints, for the F-100F I used Vallejo's colours for the first time. Enjoy the pics! Patrick Credits background picture: designed by Freepik, photo by jannoon028: https://www.freepik.com/free-photo/clouds-sunset-mountains_986559.htm

Here my new built Eduard Fw 190 F-8 in 1:48. It is OOB, just the decals (only the white 4) are from Kagero for showing off a fighter bomber of 7./SG 10.

Here is a Me 262A-1a/U4 W.Nr. 111899 flown by Major Willi Herget for JV 44, April 1945 Riem, Bavaria Its the old Dragon kit which still looks the job. Thos who have buil it know that the upper wing to fuselage fit is not 100% but by fitting the lower wing first I was able to move the gaps to the leading edge and just fill them wth filler. Other than that this was a blast to build and and is a serious gun up front. I did replace the kit plastic Master in Reality turned metal gun+ muzzel which is absolutely amazing but also entirely impractical as it turns out luckly for the men of the B26's 344th and 323rd BG who she went up against. Diorama is made using the 2 ground crew figures inlcuded in the kit and 2 Preiser pilots. Simple scene nothng to difficult. I dug out my copy of "The battle of Bavaria" Forsyth and Scutts for this and had a good re-read. As I have a stack of these old Dragon kits I will make one or two more of JV44 . Regards Brian

Here's my Hasegawa 1/48 A-4E built as an RNZAF Kahu. Decals are from Gecko Graphics - these were a bit of a disappointment, I was unable to avoid some silvering (there seems to be more silvering every time I look at it!) and they didn't adhere very well (a couple of them flew off into the distance when I sprayed the matt varnish at them!). Build thread is in the ANZAC GB here thanks for looking Julian

Here is my Bf109E - Northern France 1941. Pretty happy with the result although with the benefit of hindsight I could have rescribed the panel lines and got the fuselage join tidier. The poor fitting engine cowlings also drove me mad so I just glued and filled in the end... It's my third build since a very lengthy hobby gap - it's a 1:72 Phantom II next. Cheers Sean

Having masked the demarcation line I started painting the DG and then realised I needed to mask the canopies: No masking instructions. Hmmm. Can I work this out? That's zoomed in, a lot. Now I can see the windscreen front, sides, two 'along the bottom and over the top' bits and the rectangles for the rear. With a microscope strapped to my head, they're on: I've Aqua Gloss'd the edges (good boy) and, when it's dry, I'll slosh some more paint on.

Hi guys! Time for another up date!...still battling on with the Cheyenne turret and this post is all about Ammo boxes ,rounds and seats! So this first photo is of the two ammunition boxes I made from plastic card. I should point out at this stage that when I mounted them onto the Turret side walls I realized that they were far too long and had to cut them down to size!...1 step forward 2 steps back!..... So here they are attached to the side walls.... It was time to put some music on and settle down for the afternoon to make the ammunition belts!....Of course I have done this for all the other guns on this project so far and knew it would be a rather a laborious task! The belts are paper (so they can be flexible when placing them on the guns etc) and the rounds are hundreds of 4mm cut lengths of wire. ....more paper detail and by the end of the afternoon I had finished! Time to put some paint on them!.... I then placed them onto the ammunition boxes.... I then turned my attention to the outside of the turret. Most of the combat B17G Cheyenne turrets had the apertures where the barrels go through open...but the Warbirds have them closed off with zipped canvas as on "Fuddy Duddy" ....so this was replicated with the use of thin plastic. Both the 50 cals were then glued to the internal frame minus the barrels which I will place on when the turret is complete.... ....and the top plate was then glued into position over the guns..... It was at this stage that I shortened the ammo boxes....what a drag!....my own fault ...I should have studied the reference photos more carefully! It was now time to have a go at the old bicycle seat that the gunner sits on for hours on end!...I shaped a small block of balsa wood and covered it with thin plastic card and I also made the knee pads to go on either side of the seat..... ....and painted.... Looks bloody uncomfortable to say the least! With the gunners seat in place ...the last 6 photos are what the turret looks like so far! See you on the next post.. Thanks for taking a look! Cheers Fozzy

Thanks Dave,.... I did actually think of you when I chose the 45 Sqn scheme mate,..... but as you know I have a theme with the unit too,..... I also have a Brigand in the wings to go with the Beaufighter`s and Hornet,..... maybe a Buckmaster too? And I have a 33 Sqn Hornet that I built some time ago to keep the silver Hornet company; And to finish off the Firedog collection here is my 33 Sqn Tempest Mk.2,... another oldie, but in 1/48th scale;

Eurasia Aviation Corporation was started just 6 years after the start of Luftansa. A joint venture between China and Germany, it's objective was to link far East Asia with Germany while connecting the vast inland areas of China. It operated throughout the 1930's, flying various routes with at one state a route connecting Berlin to Shanghai. Flying numerous Junkers aircraft, including two F 13's, no doubt due to the Junkers reputation for rugged aircraft designs as there were almost no airfields in China at the time. However, the Japanese invasion of China started to hurt the company. Junkers F-13 'Eurasia IV' served from 1931 until it was destroyed in a Japanese air raid on Shanghai in 1937, with most remaining aircraft in the fleet destroyed by subsequent air raids in 1940, the company was wound up not long after. This kit itself is the old Revell offering. It's actually a pretty good kit. I bought the Master-X conversion and decals out of Eastern Europe and although the resin parts look like a straight drop in for the kid parts, it's not always that simple. However a little cutting and sanding made the parts fit, the decals being pretty good considering they had some interesting surface detail to conform to. I used Testors clear parts cement for the cabin windows and lightly weathered the aircraft. These were frequently landing in dirt fields, so I figure a bit of dust and dirt would get on the wheels. It's finished off with a semi gloss clear.

Hi, This is my 1:72 Hawker Typhoon by Airfix. Can't believe I'm first in the gallery. That's a first for me!! Hope you like her Cheers Nigel

March the 13th 6:55 am on a Friday 3002. Laurie

#14/2021 All good things come in three, so here´s my dad´s third and last 262 for now. Hobby Boss kit, "712" decals from Kagero book "Messerschmitt Me 262 In Defence of the Third Reich", rest of decals from the sparesbox, painted with different MRP metal colours, simulated all the filler stuff by airbrushing different grey tones. Brake lines and seatbelts added, EZ Line used for the antenna wires. Build thread here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235091248-naked-bird148-messerschmitt-me262a-2a-jv44/ In May 1945 the rest of JV44 ended up in Tyrol/Austria. A bunch of 262s and other aircraft, standing and lying around in the mountain valleys, partly destroyed, have been captured there by US troops. Can´t tell if this aircraft was an A-1 or A-2. It had racks like an A-2 but four gun openings like an A-1. DSC_0001 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0016 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0017 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0018 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0019 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0021 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0022 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0023 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0024 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0001 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr

My latest finished build. Roden's Globemaster II "Old Shaky". To be honest - it was my first 'short run', and I'm not very satisfied with end result. But I'm glad it is finished and now have time for something new 😉 I added to less weight in nose section, and model is tending to be "tail sitter", so I had to add the tail support, which I have seen on real photos, so it is not pure sci-fi 🤣 Now I've got two Globemaster's in collection: C-124 and C-17. Please feel free to provide constructive criticism 👍

This is the Revell of Germany 1/48 scale kit converted into a what if Turboprop rescue aircraft.The engines are scratchbuilt using the engine nacelles from a Heller 1/72 scale KC-135.The propeller come from a Revell 1/72 scale Breguet Atlantic.The rudder was modified using parts of the plastic rudder of a MPM 1/48 scale Heinkel He 177 Greif (the model also includes resin rudders).The DGzRS markings were taken from a Revell 1/72 scale rescue cruiser. Saluti Giampiero

Cheers Mario, thanks! And welcome on board I know the Oyumaru is normally used in combination with epoxy putty (Milliput or the likes) - I was just trying to see if it would work with resin because it's the quickest way to cast parts. A quick update before any actual WE modelling; over the week, I re-stocked on silicone, so I did cast a copy of the Revell's compressor faces in the traditional way: Came out much better this time While I had the resin out, I did cast another set of outer wings and of splitter plates; here are the wings: Apologies for the poor pic - they came out much better this time, with only a minor blemish on the wingtip Since they will anyway need to be modified to get to their final state, I think these are a good enough base to start with. On the other hand, the splitter plates came out very good So I'll be using these to replace the Hasegawa parts. The Quickboost seats arrived too: The fit inside the Finemolds tub is pretty tight even more so at the front - I actually had to shave off some plastic from the tub sides, and still it is quite a snug fit I did put in the FM seat frames to check for the relative positions Both in, they look pretty good to me The second set it's obviously for the Hasegawa office; here the fit is much looser Will see if it stays like that after I added the Eduard PE cockpit parts. Alright, back to the bench now - any comments welcome. Ciao

I was just sitting on the couch after starting on replacing some panel lines before I head off to get my second Pfizer jab, and I thought for the first time looking at it from this angle , HEY that looks like a British Phantom! Well it was a big thing in my world because I had been struggling to see the woods for the trees or step back to see the bigger picture. Sorry for the poor pic I just snapped it on my iPhone on the couch at a distance Right-O , off for my Jab Cheers Anthony

my JS-2 tank diorama is finished, some pictures with the tree some without. thanks to all the people who gave me tips for the house roof and other details

Much like the reason for climbing Everest, I'm going to throw caution to the wind and build this big old kit because it's there. Contrails Petlyakov Pe8 four engine bomber. £10 from Comet Miniatures just as the shop was closing for good a few years ago. It's about time it got built. Not a type I'm familiar with, but there seems to be quite a bit of reference material out there. One picture in particular really grabbed me. How about this shot of the plane that took Molotov to the USA during WW2 I've also found a colour profile that shows it in green and black cammo. Colours sorted then! ...Tempting. Very, very tempting. I'll get a couple of nearly done builds finished, then this one gets a bit of bench time.

The Falklands War isn't known for the wealth of armour, most modelling subjects are aircraft and ships. The Argentinians did have some armour which mainly stuck to the hard roads of Stanley. The British did not have that luxury and what could be used on the soft peat ground was limited. They did take 9 CVR(t)'s of the Blues and Royals. 4 Scorpions, 4 Scimitars and a Sampson recovery vehicle. I have been wanting to do a vehicle for some time but was not sure of what modifications would be needed. Then a few years back i came across a UK site calle Scvorpion Miniature, and as they name suggests they mainly deal in CVR(t) subjects, both selling AFV Club kits and AM sets, some under their own label and other from HK Creation Miniatures. One of their sets was a Falklands War Conversion, so that was it, i was straight in their, buying the AFV Club Scimitar. And buying 4 of their AM sets. Clockwise from top left is a backdate set, i don't nee all of this. This is under the HK label but Scorpion sell sections of it seperatly under their own label. Next, the Falklands conversions which can be used on both Scorpion and Scimitar. The second 2 were later additions to their range and i got those as i saw them. A new stowage bin for the rear huill and a turret with the correct shape. They have recently brance out into other subjects none CVR(t) relkate and have some nice stuff, including a Gulf War Stowage set which includes the correct webbing and backbacks for the Falklands. Now going to order 2 of those. I also got a set of AFV Club indy liny tracks. I made a start a few night ago on the running gear. The back date set replaces all the axle arms as well as ading bump stops and other parts. And then onto the upper hull. This involve cutting out the later hinged forward engine deck and replaceing it with the earlier boted type. Also ade the bolt heads with some hex rob that i have to now cut down to size. The Scorpion site also has lots of great info on CVR(t) including photos of vehicles in 82, both on Ascenion Island where all the extra stowage was fite and training took place and on the Falklands themselves, so i will be useing that a lot for referance.

Hi all My first trip out with the cameras since the last flying day at Duxford last October! Today the conditions were tricky for photography, which is pretty standard for Duxford to be honest. I enjoyed the day with the military vehicle demonstrations and the flying. So, without further ado.... Thanks for looking!

A bit too much life getting in the way at present, but there has been some progress with the P-38. Underside (already sprayed neutral grey): From above, first base coat: Tamiya acrylics. More when I can Crisp

Minor update – The turret interior got a bit of attention. The usual white followed by acrylic grey sponge dabs, oil washes and a touch of graphite. The overhanging rear bodywork panels were glued in place along with the idler wheels. I plan to leave the engine panels loose so they can be taken off for viewing all that lovely engine detail. Thankfully it seems to fit very neatly without glue.

Thank you Ced, thanks Alistair, thanks Rob I got the detail painting done in the cockpit: As they were pre-assembled when I got the kits it was a bit awkward to do as I had to paint around the control yokes, so I just cheated and put a drop of Citadel Nuln Oil black was into each dial (actually a couple of goes were necessary to get it sufficiently black) and 'glazed' them with Micro Kristal Klear... after that a few dots of colour here and there and a quick prayer to the Modelling Godess that not much of it will be visible in any case I used the Kits World 3D-printed seatbelts from the USAAF Fighter set, they worked fine, a bit better than they do in 1/32: Can anyone identify these three fellows?: I think they might be recognition lights so if they are, does anyone know the front-to-rear colour sequence? I'd be grateful for any clarification Oh, and got the bomb-bay done: So next on to the front fuselage section. The nosewheel doors open inward on the -D model of the B-24, there's a useful guide here The kit ones open outwards. Quickboost make a replacement set. I'm not suggesting you shouldn't buy one if you want to, or you could do this: Just cut off the tabs and glue them inwards. Cheers, Stew

Another quick update, boat bays and docking bays pretty much done and dusted (there are two teeny weeny docking bays still to do but they should be very quick to knock up), the stanchions are North Star rigged with 0.16mm wire (I wouldn't recommend trying it after a couple of vino tintos, please don't ask me how I know). Firstly the portside And the Starboard side which will have one of the boats out on the rails, hence the buffers in place and the single line on the railings. And just for the hell of it, a kind of 1/200 nautically themed shanty town !! Anyway, thanks for looking, hopefully I can get some more work done on the hull once I've got this little lot in place ! Cheers David

Thanks Ced, Charlie So every day is indeed a school day; I have learned that the B-24D has different wingtip lights to the later versions, and only has an aileron trim-tab on the starboard wing. This means you need to remove the wingtip lights moulded on the kit wing, and fill the port trim-tab and remove its actuator - all this is shown on the instructions: I used Mr. Surfacer on it, I think it will pass muster once the paint is on. Bomb construction is complete: I'm keeping the port and starboard side bombs separate to avoid potential idiocy on my part Coming up: It's Dull! It's Dark! It's Green! It's Dull Dark Green: I've started the detail painting of the turrets and cockpits... Cheers, Stew

Hello everyone. Here is my first entry to this groupbuild I bought this set, along with 2 other sets for 250 dkk for all 3, which is equal to 29 gbp, so is guess it is okay to build this set in this GB? 🤔 At first glance this kit looks good, some rough edges here and there, but it should be possible to make it look good. There is a lot of weapons option The decalsheet is a bit curved, but looks okay. I've always been a bit fascinated by the Foxhound due to it looks (those giant exhausts just look crazy 😎) I'll be building option 2, the 08. It is not the most colourful aircraft i've ever made, but I think it will look great once finished For this build, I'll see if I can improve on the quality of my pictures. The box: The sprues: The instructions, decals and the paints:

Hi All finally got this finished, looking at some early and mid 1918 photos I used those to judge the weathering etc, base and a figure or two to do. Cheers For Looking Mark

EVENING ALL....Hope the weekend went well. Managed to get this one to a 95% finished state. I have a figure in the works for it; but still polishing up my figure painting skills....... I might still tinker with it over time, and add additional equipment and stowage; but for now it'll have to stay as it is while I shift back over to another couple of projects languishing on the shelf. Sorry abut the pics, but all I have is the mobile phone....... Cheers all. Simon.

Some thoughts - the tail fin decal was too large for the Hasegawa parts, so I assumed it was designed for Academy. This got me thinking - are the Hasegawa fins too small? Someone earlier in this thread mentioned that the Academy fins are too large according to some internet forum post. I pulled out my 1:72 drawings for the F/A-18, and as far as I can tell the Hasegawa tail fins match exceptionally well. FWIW. So, I added the centreline fuel tank (Aerobonus resin - beautiful work) and the gear doors. Except for the one door I forgot to paint! What a dolt. Next, I wanted to do the flat varnish. This particular aircraft was freshly painted for the USN Centennial - no typical USN weathering on this bird. However, 15042 (Sea Blue) is notorious for weathering and lightening up. I decided to try something that I've never tried before to duplicate some light weathering on the top surfaces of the Hornet. I used two different flat varnishes to try and create a "splotchy" look to the top sides. The effect is very subtle. Can you see it? If not, I am a complete failure. I should hang up my airbrush and switch to knitting and boondoggle. I like this angle better: More lumps, bumps, and antennae to be added. I also finished up the work on the hot end of the bird. You can see how much I had to hack off the exhaust tubes (compare to photos earlier in the thread. These are the resin parts from Aires. The photoetch flame holders seem to be unlike any photos I've seen of the business end of the F/A-18. Additionally, they are too large to fit into the exhaust tube. No problem, my Fiskars scissors trimmed the OD. Hopefully, I've modified these correctly so they will fit into the back end of the model. More to come... Cheers, Bill

Announced repackaging from the AMK 1/48th Grumman F-14D Super Tomcat kit - ref. New decals: VF-2 and VF-31 Sources: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1001193059922345/permalink/5644814288893509/ https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=10225986931648544&set=gm.5762734467101490 Box art V.P.

Got the 262 completed a couple of night ago. I changed my mind for the weathering and just went with a Flory wash, but i didn't use my usualy mix of greys but went for grime and it had a nice effect. All the final bit were adde and it was secured to the base. I was surprised that it was a tail sitter, early on i didn't think it would be. I used some of the Eduard PE wire but also used my own wire in some places such as the brake lines. I didn't wire up the engine, preffering just to leave as is. The panel on the right side of the fuselage is not held in place, so that can be removed. The forward panel over the guns and the one for the left side of the gun bay are removable. I figured after geting metal barrels, it would be a shame to have them covered up. I have not aded chocks to any of my 32nd builds as they have all been on grass or sand till now. But i figure this could do with some so going to order a set from Hannants next week. This was a nice build with some great detail, though some of the fit could have been better, but nothing that could not be solved.

Next step : the exhaust I painted the exhaust with Gunze MC212 paint I used too the Tamiya XF-68 Nato Brown and XF57 Buff the a heavy dillution Now I can close the fuselage There is a gap behind the wheels bay But it can easely fixed I can start the paint I prefere the pre shadowing technic After this step I can paint the "white". I use the Gunze H1 paint But during this process, the front canopy unstick him I need to fill the front of this part again

Been plodding away this week on the Lanc. The fuselage is largely there apart from the bomb bay and some small bits to go on. Currently working on the wings. Getting those exhaust shrouds done was a most pleasurable experience and I'm currently fighting those roundel decals over the raised panels. I don't have any masks for them, have all the others or else I would of sprayed them. Klear needs adding to the wings to seal the decals in once the roundels are bedded down.

Hi, I've built this for the 'Less than a tenner' GB and what a pleasant build she was; went together without any issues : Cheers Nigel

G'day Chums,here's my take on the Ark Models Hurricane I. I wasn't ready for this one,there is a lot of work involved in putting it together.The sliding portion of the canopy is the closed item from the Airfix new tool kit suitably warmed and manipulated to alter the shape and sit.The wing leading edge lights were scratched from runner and thin wire,the glassware was flat clear sheet bent and let into the wing.The gun camera housing came from the Airfix kit as did the antenna mast and the decals.The upper wing roundels were home brewed masks and hairy sticked.The Sutton Harness was painted masking tape. Otherwise this one is OOB with Milliput taking care of the sink marks and builder induced steps and mismatches. I nearly got it right. As demanding as it is I like this kit,all the goodies for all the variants are in the box and most of it is useable. Would I build another one?Yes,a PR variant and a Sea Hurricane certainly and night fighter are on the to do list. Thanks for looking in Chums.

The Contrail Hendon beat me Pete. I ended up building it as a wartime wooden kit sort of build. Everything was a bit soft about it and the amount of reconstruction needed to drag a decent model out of it was more than I was up for. When in doubt, revert to basics. It's my default setting when a kit starts fighting too much. There's always a chance of that happening with this latest effort, but I'll be attempting a proper model first. I've made a start on cutting out the bigger parts. Detail is there, if a little indistinct. It's early days yet though, so no judgement passed for the moment . The injected parts might see service. They are rather crude but better than nothing. Decals look OK. I'll clearcoat them just in case. I couldn't resist taping a few parts together to get a feel for the size of the thing. It looks like the worlds biggest Fairey Battle from some angles. I'll be having a good read up on the subject and making a start later in the week with a bit of luck. A couple of other builds need attention first. Tony.

Flatted and wet coat , again ….. No dust bunny’s this time 🤣

Thanks Marklo It certainly is!! I've completed the decals this morning so I'm waiting for the gloss to dry now. They've taken a few days as the MarkFit reacts with the Humbrol gloss leaving a 'white' patch when dry. However, reapplying the gloss makes it disappear and brings the colour back. It's just a case of waiting for layers to dry where there are decals upon decals. Should be just be a case of panel lines and light weathering followed by a dull coat before putting the smaller pieces on the airframe. Right, I'm off to watch FP3 and Qualifying in the interim 🏁

Reading through people's experiences of having the vaccination -whether first or second dose, or one of the three vaccines now offered, has been fascinating. And I am sure, for those who've yet to have one, reassuring. I am very glad that I've had both vaccinations now, and that the worst effects of this damn virus seem to be receding. And I don't know if anyone else saw the Great British menu last night, but Professor Sarah Gilbert, one of the scientists who developed the Oxford/Astra Zeneca virus, was one of the guests at the banquet. While that isn't (probably) one of the great accolades of the scientific workd, I thought it a nice touch and from what she said, some nice food, too!

preshaded and ready for paint decided to do a prototype like scheme, to say in RLM02 and metal DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr

A late finish from the Vietnam GB and my favourite aircraft . The kit is the superlative Zoukei Mura F-4C. This airframe 64-0829 is probably best known as Robin Olds's Scat XXVII in the SEA scheme and he achieved two MiG 17 kills with it on 20 May 1967. However this is the jet seen in its twilight operational scheme with the Texas ANG before it was repainted in its better known SEA colours again as an exhibit at the National Museum of the US Air Force. Link Aftermarket used: Caracal Decals CD48038 Air National Guard F-4C/D Phantom Part 3 - Really good sheet with some interesting schemes of early Phantoms in their later years of ANG service. The decal quality, thinness and colour density are excellent. Looking forward to using their decals again, the fit especially on the fin flash was fantastic. @CaracalModels ZM F-4C/D Etched Brass - Made by Eduard for ZM's own label. Aires Martin Baker Mk.7 Seats. Eduard Fabric Ejection Seat Belts. HGW RBF Tags. Quinta Ejection Handles (from their phantom sets). Master Pitot tubes Paints are Gunze with levelling thinners, over a black Gaia Notes primer coat. Post lightening and shading done with adding greys and yellows. Alclad 2 for the metallic shades with lots of masking Matt finish is SMS Matt Varnish Original Build Thread: After this enjoyable build, I'm looking forward to see what Tamiya can do with the Phantom in 1:48 scale

Started throwing paint at it. I have painted the inside and out in cream - may end up adding a bit of white to lighten it but we will see. Ok, it was nearly 60 years ago so my memory may be wrong but I seem to think that the normal AEC Regent fleet had seat covers in Mocquette - a fabric mix, used on bus and train seats, possibly dark grey with some coloured specks - red and blue maybe. However the RT Regents had what might be called Leatherette or Rexine which was a sort of vinyl and was popular until it was found that the seat covers contributed to a nasty train fire in I think the 1960's. Whatever, they were a slightly different blue to the paintwork, speaking of which I am still fiddling about with that blue but getting close - the panel at the top right is not quite dark enough. The floors and top of the steps were covered in a rubberised non slip material which I have painted dark grey. Cheers Pete

G'day again Chums,a bit more to show. Ted,thanks for popping in old fruit.I'm quietly watching your Bootneck on a Bike build and hoping that my efforts reach adequacy in comparison. Stix,good of you to drop by old chum.These seem to have been very popular way back when,they weren't really my thing but my dad went a bundle on them.Fascinated by heraldry and being an ex cavalryman he was very taken by these kits and made a few. Having wrapped up my Ark Hurricane build I decided to make a base for this.The kit one is fine but I'd like to make something a little more eyecatching.I developed a bit of a scenery bug with last years Jagdpanther build so this might be the place to develop the method.I started with an offcut of 1/2" plywood scrounged from a skip and some Costa coffee stirring sticks legitmately purloined from the local Co-op without even buying a brew.I'm not really a cheapskate but I can out tight most folks when so minded. These were cut to size and superglued to the ply. This was then sanded smooth,saving the sawdust for gap filling. The edges were levelled off on some coarse sandpaper. Once happy a coat of varnish was slathered on. Thanks for looking in Chums,more soon.

Work on the command sphere. First pass with paint Dry fit Command sphere together with Interior details in place and wiring. Each LED came with resistor at end of positive wire. I placed all of these together in a plastic harness salvaged from old computer parts. Wiring all tucked up into the sphere Final lighting test before command sphere gets attached to spine. Air lock details Engine lighting details. The engine parts just slip over the lights. Once in place, there is a gap between the engine exhaust sides - a flaw in the Moebius kit. Easily corrected with some styrene strip.