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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/08/2019 in all areas

  1. 15 points
    Hello, this was just quick relax project with easy click B-25 Mitchell from Revell (ex old Monogram snap-tite), how it will look when glued and painted ..airbushed with Revell aqua Martin 20191208_122216 by Martin Kubis, on Flickr 20191208_122323 by Martin Kubis, on Flickr 20191208_122332 by Martin Kubis, on Flickr 20191208_121928 by Martin Kubis, on Flickr
  2. 12 points
    Storm Atiyah hitting these shores today: Co.Kerry's just shot up to a red warning and we're expecting big winds to hit where we are this evening further northwards so cracking this out before any power cuts. Most kind of you Chris: there'll be one going up at some stage during the week, sunlight permitting! 'Fraid so Crisp. P.99 and we are done!: You're a wicked man Adrian. ... I just knew there had to be a better reason for the Heinous Hawk Hiatus than merely cycling round the world twice Steve. So. In under the century with the props and rudder on this morning. Some of the paint touchups involved more complicated masking than originally anticipated due to the proximity of roundels but pleased to say that aside from knocking the large point aerial err....aside, no parts were dislodged. Don't fancy heading out into Atiyah with Annie and a camera today so expect an RFI during the week when the light is kinder and the atmosphere in less of a foment. A few teasers to keep you going until then: It's been a long haul hasn't it? I don't mind admitting its taken it's toll somewhat on the Baronial carcass... What on Earth am I going to do with my days now? Tony
  3. 7 points
    Hi Folk's,built about three years ago the photo's were lost in the PB ransom episode,long forgotten @Adam Poultney came across it minus the photo's so after a good wash 'n dry heres a few of her.
  4. 6 points
    Mrs Gorby is getting suspicious as to where all the lids are going. She's developing a haunted look, so I needed to find a good (easy) way of making reasonably accurate cylinders/tubes. The lids I originally pinched for the two main wheels turned out to be unsuitable – the plastic was too thin and poor quality. Fortunately, along came a brain wave of truly tsunami proportions (although in hindsight it was more like a ripple that'd be unlikely to make an ant loose it's balance). Remember back when we were at primary school learning about dinosaurs and other current events? We used to use scissors to curl paper and stick them to other bits of curled paper for our parents to throw in the bin when we got home. Using the same method 0.25mm styrene curls very easily (I used the brass rods as I'm more likely to injure myself with scissors than when I was five). 0.5mm was a bit more effort (using the back of a scalpel blade) but still worked well. 0.75mm was equally successful but required a stronger device (the gouge/chisel). Even when I trained as a draughtsman I rarely used pi. I've used it more on my last three scratch-builds than since I left school. It's almost as if it was worth going to school. Not a lot of my education seems to have stuck, but is it my fault if I haven't got a sticky brain? Rather than use the currently known 31 trillion digits of pi, 3.142 was close enough to find the length of the side walls then a narrower tab was glued to the inside so that when the full circle was done the front and back face could slot inside using the inner tab as a stop/spacer. I didn't take any photos of the assembly as I'm giving you credit to be able to understand written instructions (okay, I forgot to take photos). The single small front wheel started it's modelling career as a Micro Sol lid. Little did it know when it was young that one day it would be discovered and go on to achieve great things. Unfortunately it got that wrong, as I chopped half it's body away drilled holes in it and hid it's natural beauty behind layers of plastic. Here it's been shown having a face lift. Originally I'd used double sided tape (as in my A7V build) but it wasn't up to the job. I had to apply super glue to it as you would normally use Tamiya Extra thin. Bit messy, but worked well. The wheels temporarily in place: The blob on the deck (?) is a drop of water to see if the deck is level. The thing I thought would be the next most difficult bit turned out to be quite easy – if a little fiddly. It's what I believe is called an 'elliptic leaf spring'. Only one of my reference pictures shows this springy thing, the rest don't, but I like it so it's in. First I made a simple, and pretty tiny jig. Over the two bits of tube on the jig slip two fatter bits of tube and the first strip of 0.3mm plastic gets wrapped around. Then: Off the jig so that I don't end up with a nice springy thing – but stuck to a bit of wood: Looks a mess as it's before it got cleaned up. That's just a wooden 3mm thick spacer in the middle: Front wheel assembled and primed: Time for my Robey to get some body and other extremities. There is much to catch up with, as a result, this post is turning into something of an ordeal. It was about this time that my mojo hit the buffers. Due to all the reference photos bickering about their petty details, I was wondering if the build was possible at all. I abandoned modelling and went of to do something completely different, but of equally futility. The only reason I returned to it is that I've never ditched a project part way through and I didn't want to start now. It was also because I found something I want to have a go at building – that won't happen until this out of the way. I needed more reference pics. A glass half full sort of person would have relished the opportunity to search down the missing information and set off skipping though fields of daisys, whistling merry tunes. A glass half empty person would have thought “sod it” and punched a rabbit or something. I'm more of a “who pinched half my bloody drink” sort of chap, and ploughed grimly on for two days through the deep dark Google mines. I found a bit more, but it only added to the confusion. Damn. Anyway, back to the only type body-building I'm ever likely too do. This is the underside of the deck (if I was playing Tetris, I'd have lost). The bits on either side are water tanks. Next the boiler gets fitted (odd that, it looks like half a test tube). The cone at the top was the result of plan B, as so many of these bits are. The ruins of 'cone - plan A', all three attempts: Plan B was just four disks glued together (the pole is to keep them central) and then turned on my mini lathe like this: Okay, it's a Dremel with delusions of grandeur. I couldn't resist putting the bits together. Next I need to dress the body and as my Robey is dead macho, this should under no circumstances be referred to a skirt. As I seem to be drawn to things covered in rivety pimples, I've re-purposed a bradawl to make the experience less painful (for me, not you). I've got no idea what the things on either side of the deck are. One image shows them as rectangular and one shows them with rounded fronts. I went with rounded. The yellow stuff is the double sided tape before the backing is removed. No prizes for guessing the base for the steering wheel is half a wheel from the spare parts supply. The riveting on the deck is a work of fiction. Like much of the build really. As I've not been doing this modelling business for long, I haven't got many spare bits to rummage through. This is my entire mini hoard: Coal bins for the back. There is only a little empty space at the top so that I don't have to fill the whole bin with 'coal'. I remember reading somewhere, somewhen, that coal is one of the few things that modellers can use that can be used for itself in miniature. If you see what I mean. But I haven't any coal and having a bag delivered is probably likely to be considered to be overkill, when all I needed was one lump. I'll probably use crumbled cork. In the original engraving I showed a few posts back, the funnel is a little dull. I can't have dull. Most of the other images I've found show a much more flashy funnel. As is so often the case, plan A failed. I tried sawing a few mill down from the top, all the way around the tube, splaying the petals outward and inserting tiny triangular wedges in the gaps. It sort of worked, but it was so fiddly and time consuming I gave up. I desperation I had a rummage in my drawers and thought this might be a possibility: After filing, scraping, puttying and sanding, I'm quite please with the result: I have no evidence that this was on any Robey steamer, as this build is delving into the realm of fiction, mine does. I know you can buy plastic 'I' beams, but I've never had a use for them, I just wanted to see if I could make them. Saw a square tube lengthways, Glue them back to back, Tadaaaaaaa. All together now….. If you've managed to get this far, some countries would award you a medal and a small pension. This, being Britain, I'll just say “Ta”.
  5. 5 points
    Another few days on and a bit more progress.. .well some anyway. I'm facing a bit of a hold up as I need the resin seats I ordered a while back but they haven't arrived yet, so looking at other tasks that need doing, in particular the figures. One of the nice things about these figures is the choice of poses. Each set comes with two different leg sets so its a matter of mixing and matching to get the best poses for this. Here is a test set up The bloke in the doorway has obviously been at the bottle... must be Hudson. He's supposed to be standing up like this I like the dynamic of having him stepping through the doorway. In the first pic you can see the alternative legs that are left over, here is a close up As you can see there is a good variety of poses just in the legs. Here is Vasquez already partly assembled but without the heavy pulse rifle I don't have a Lt Gorman figure - there was one in the set that was released but I couldn't find one - so I've re-purposed the 4th figure which was Cpl Detrich to be the LT as that figure comes with a soft cap as well as combat helmet. This figure also came with a leg pose that looks like it seated, so with a bit of adjustment with the dremel it fits in the chair like this More of the chair here which is based on one of the Cougar 6x6 chairs but with lots of plastic strip added The seat sits in a 5mm wide channel strip to represent the rails it ran on. The wide channel piece on the back is designed to mate with the anchor structure on the side of the command station when the dropship is entering the atmosphere. You can see what I've done for this here You can also see some of the wall decorations I've started adding, but this is where the lack of the seats is stopping further progress. All the internal structures you see here are just dry fitted at the moment, hence why there are some gaps and the ceiling girders a a bit crooked. Here is another angle showing the command station. (dammit, one of those monitors is crooked!!) The panel with the monitors is just slotted in currently. I arranged it this way to allow me to paint it in detail easily and then be able to slot it in once the painting is done. So I think until the seats arrive I need to focus on the figures for the next few days...
  6. 4 points
    I don't know if this helps any? it's an un issued panel approximately a foot square in factory applied HSS, I think what it does illustrate is the lack of a shine. John
  7. 3 points
    Well,..... went to the Para Regt Assoc Crimbo doo last night,..... so no modelling this morning LOL!! I have laid out the bits that I`ve done so far,.... including the length of sprue to be cut to size for the refuelling probe ducting,...... and the Herk appears to have had a child!! So we are slowly getting there! Cheers, Tony
  8. 3 points
    OK folks, while finishing off the Christmas shopping today I popped into "The Works" to get a few items. While perusing the shop I came across this. For £7.00, it just had to be purchased. Simon.
  9. 3 points
  10. 3 points
    He'd have to retrain the 3D printer micro spiders. It's not easy for a bloke with fingers that big to wield that tiny whip and chair!
  11. 3 points
    Cheers Stuart, if things hadn't gone to plan then I would have been adding solid ones too. Thanks Cliff, just three more to make and I must remember that they are handed. Thanks a lot Chris. I have decided to bite the bullet and have ordered a set along with a Vickers K series from Ebay. I just hope that they get here before the GB ends.
  12. 3 points
    The R-1 is getting there - painted and decalled, just needs a flat coat and some wheels.
  13. 2 points
    Hi folks. I've had this one sitting on the shelf with Tamiya AS-12 on it for a while so I decided to finally get some colour onto it. It's amazing how many models are ini a state where paint can be applied and then a day later end up looking almost complete. It's my first real go at trying the AK Chipping Effects fluid besides on accessories. The colours used are lacquers by Mr Color which I absolutely love. Their coverage and applications characteristics are just great. They are a tad smelly though nothing a paint mask can't sort out. In order of application of colour Tamiya AS-12 AK Chipping Effects Mr Color 122 RLM 82 Light Green Mr Color 126 Cockpit Color (Mitsubishi) Mr COlor 124 Dark Green (Mitsubishi) The cowl was masked and then got the same treatment as the main colour. Mr Color actually do a Cowl Color which is #125. The chipping was done by scrubbing and chipping away at the paint with a stump paint brush and a pottery tool. By rolling the pottery tool (kind of like a nail) on it's edge you can get some pretty good random chips over large, flat area. The gloss a Tamiya X-22 thinned with lacquer thinner. One thing I do after I've put it down is to hit it with neat Tamiya Lacquer thinner. It ends looking like glass and is super smooth, excellent for decal application. The underside grey goes on tomorrow. Thanks, Michael
  14. 2 points
    Hi, Eggplanes have always looked to me as a good bit of fun and when a fellow from my club came back from a show with an F4U-4, I told myself ‘ I’ve got to get this one ’. A few months later, at Cosford model show, I was able to find it on a stand. With it was nearly the complete range of eggplanes from Meng and when I saw the B-17G, I knew this was the one I was going to build. Back to the club stand, we looked at it with some fellow members (that is the reason I don’t have pictures of the complete sprues ). It appears that the kit belongs to ‘Meng Kids’ brand and for sure it can be managed by kids: one can assemble the model without glue, without paint (like good old Matchbox kits, the sprue are coloured to fit the paint scheme) and the decals are replaced by stickers. Internal details are non-existing, appart from the bomb bay that is represented opened with two big bombs. On the other hand, the surfaces details are very nice. One word about the packaging which is very well done with all the big parts and sprues packages individualy in plastic bags. In addition to the parts, the stickers and the instruction, one also get a explaining card, which, unless you read japanese, explains really few... So it could have been an express built, like shown here partially built... Could have…. … unless you like to have some details in your kits, like I do. So now the main challenge will be to add some details while keeping the spirit of an eggplane, if you see what I mean. To start with, I’ve decided to add pistons to the engines; Meng is only providing the central hub. The pistons are sourced from the spare box, from a (bad) representation of a Twin Wasp engines. With two of them, I had enough to do four Cyclones. After many tries, the preferred way to build the engine was: · Place the central hub in position in the wing · Remove the (ugly) piston heads from the pistons. · Identify where the ejector mark is on each piston · Remove one piston at the time from the carter. · Flatten the large section of the cylinder where the ejector mark is : this will keep the mark at the back of the engine; the identification is only there to help you finding the mark when the piston is removed from the carter. · Cut the thinner part of the cylinder with an angle so that it will fit on the central hub. · Place the piston around the hub; trim if necessary. · Repeat for the eight other cylinders. · Once all cylinders are in place, apply a tiny amount of glue to set them on the central hub, be careful not to glue the wing in the process. · After a few minutes, remove the engine from the wing · To hide a bit the junction between the hub and the cylinders, I had a ring of wire in front of them. As it then looked like I had a nice sunflower, I decided to try a new way to reproduce it: put it in the garden, watered it a bit... and you’ll quickly got three more. and you’ll quickly got three more Cheers, Antoine
  15. 2 points
    If you're using Alclad Aluminium (ALC-101) you shouldn't have problems with masking over it. It seems that only Alclad high-shine colours are problematic with masking tape (e.g.: airframe aluminium, chrome). Cheers Jaime
  16. 2 points
    Technology at its best G. Decals? lots of the buggers mate. Keep your sanity, drink wine. All looking good from here my friend. Simon.
  17. 2 points
  18. 2 points
    Somebody needs to have a quiet word in a dark corner with Transmaldivian about getting some simpler colour schemes...
  19. 2 points
    Hello everyone, For version 1A. The magnetos of the Eduard Kit will be replaced by the Bendix magnetos of the Tamiya Kit. As well as the distribution ring. Creation of notches to adapt the Bendix distribution ring of the Tamiya Kit Painting of the engine block slightly weathered for the moment See you soon, Sweety (Google Translate)
  20. 2 points
    Well, they're coming back today for a second showing, so hopefully... Also, who sent me a RAF side cap? It arrived at my office today. Was it one of you? Fess up!
  21. 2 points
    Today Winston had his first solo in Il-2; he picked a P-47: The little chap managed to do a fairly creditable job of keeping it in the air and when he finally crashed, it was a graceful wheels-up landing. Anyway, managed to make it downstairs tonight after catching a few episodes of Silicon Valley with Mrs P (whose favourite show it currently is). The big news is that one Spit just needs sanding to be ready for primer: And the other is coming along: So one issue I've long had with Airfix Spitfire Is is the fuselage fuel cap, or rather its absence in an area that's hard to sand: Fortunately, I have a hugely-expensive highly specialized tool of very limited utility for just such eventualities! The second-largest punch, a 1.4(mm?) one, worked perfectly. *Fanfare*
  22. 2 points
    Hi, I don't know how you manage your modelling, but for me, finishing a kit always takes ages Anyway, here is the end results (at last). Since last time, some touch-up of the paint (rear of the cockpit) and scratch built of the gear bay doors with their retracting mecanisms. Thanks again for all your encouraging messages for this first participation to this forum. Cheers, Antoine
  23. 2 points
    Hi, Thank you for your comments. Here are the latest progresses. Decals have been applied and sandwiched between two layers of gloss varnish. I know lot of people use some Future-like product but to be honest I have had several bad experience with this product, on application as well as after a couple of year. So I'm using Gunze varnish (heavily diluted). The decals are mostly coming from my spare box (feedback is that Italeri decals behave very well even after 20 years; for instance, the grey dots are coming from their Fw-190 A8 box that I built back in '91... and in the end, no a single trace of silvering/ congratulations Italeri ! ). The model was then washed with a mixture of black oil paint and white spirit. Graphite power was used on the canon nozzles. Then it was all sealed under a matt varnish (Gunze again), tried to avoid applying this layer on the engine metallic nozzle. The end result look like that: I have now some finishing jobs to do: a few paint patch-up (see the white line behind the cockpit) add the breast belts add the landing gears' bay doors with their actuators. So next time, I hope to be able to present you with a fully finished model. Cheers, Antoine
  24. 2 points
    Hi, Paint done . I used Gunze paints: H417 = RLM76 H421 = RLM83 H422 = RLM82 Wings were masked. Fuselage was free-handed. I'm not 100% happy with the result (some strips are on the "heavy" side on the tail)... maybe I'll try again... or not... Hope you'll enjoy the pictures. By the way, now you can see the sewing pins. Thanks again for the tip! Have a nice weekend, Antoine
  25. 1 point
    Hello everyone, I am new on the forum, excuse my English because I use Google translation. So far I have posted montages on French forums only, despite the language problem I have joined the Larges Scale Planes community that I have been following for a long time and which I appreciate very much. Your criticism, remarks and advices are welcome for me in order to progress in this Hobby. I started a Corsair F-4U 1A some time ago. I'm going to embellish this Tamiya Kit with the Eduard cockpit and engine. I started with the Pratt & Whitney 2800 engine from the Eduard Kit. For the painting of the cylinders I used Humbrol Mascol liquid mask that I cut once dry. To preserve the slice of the black cooling plates. Home tools used for cutting the liquid mask. The painting of the cylinders once finished. See you soon, Sweety (Google Translate)
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Growing up in the U.S. that kit was and probably still is a common feature in any store that had a passing interest in plastic models. I always thought of it as toy-like but after seeing this I am truly impressed. Revell- Monogram owes you a debt of gratitude my friend. Marvelous job on that one! Todd
  28. 1 point
    Cracking rendition of one of my favourite WW2 warbirds. Love the 'nose' art !
  29. 1 point
    Oh sorry, right you are . . . .
  30. 1 point
    This was a lot less traumatic than I thought it would be. The Tamiya flexible strip is excellent for this type of thing. I'll seal it with Klear first to minimise bleed as it will need some white undercoating before I apply the red. Now on to the props and the front of the floats.
  31. 1 point
    The filter's pretty clever, it allows Arsenal, but strike out the nal and it gives bottomnal (which as a lifelong Spurs supporter (for my sins), I find somewhat amusing!) K
  32. 1 point
    Morning folks,a few hairy moments but the other port side decals on need to find something for the tail now.Just glossed the wings after painting the leading edges going to crack on with the engines next.
  33. 1 point
    Thanks Kirk for your nice comment, You're a good observer, I just did not attach the Diagonal Cross Strut, but here it is, no problem.
  34. 1 point
    Revell's 1970 Plymouth Hemi Cuda brings me bang up to date as I've just finished it over the weekend. Not perfect, but I think I am getting better. Incidentally, although it might look as though I have used zero imagination (OK, I did use zero imagination!), I did the car lime green because that's the colour I think suits it best, and built the stock rather than custom model for personal preference. Overall, this is a very nice kit which goes together very well with the exception of the rear valance (more on that later). There are mould lines on the body, but apart from the ones on the A-pillars they are positioned so as to be easy to sand off. The main downside is actually on the instructions where there are a few places which call for the body colour when they should actually be coloured differently. In fact, I inadvertedly got to try out my paint stripping skills on the dashboard which is listed as body colour, but when I did some research turned out to be the interior colour. Lesson learned - do your research before painting, not after So, first up the engine bay. It all went together much better than I was expecting it to with no real issues, even when it came to fitting the body around it. Sadly (sadly?! nothing sad about it), most of it is hidden by the enormous shaker scoop which I ended up rather obviously brush painting, although the camera has enhanced the brush strokes a lot. IMG_6380 Unfortunately, the shape of the car meant it was difficult to get a decent pic of the interior. All down to Plymouth on that score, not Revell for the model nor Canon for the camera. These are the best I could manage IMG_6381 IMG_6383 Onto the exterior, and I might as well get the worst bit out of the way first. The rear valance just doesn't seem quite right. It has to be added on after the body has been mated to the chassis, but the hollows to accommodate the rear cart springs are slightly too wide apart. I hollowed them out further to get it to fit a little bit better, but didn't dare go any further in case I went through the plastic. So it doesn't sit quite right (only by about 0.5mm, but it's enough) and that has meant that the exhausts don't quite go in right either. At least being below the bumper, it's only noticeable if you go looking for it. IMG_6384 The front went together much better. The only real issue was that the bonnet appears to have warped slightly which shows up from some angles, and not too much from others. I thought I had it straightened out before fitting to the car, but it appeared to refind it's warp overnight. At least it's not too major. IMG_6385 Going to be lazy now, and just put up a load of pics from around the car. Incidentally, the bit on the first photo which looks like a run isn't, it's just a badly located reflection of the light tent. Window trim is done using the magic Molotow pen - I haven't done any foiling at all and with the way the pen performs I doubt I will IMG_6387 IMG_6388 IMG_6389 IMG_6392 IMG_6393 IMG_6394 And finally, I gave it a chance to chill in the sunshine in the conservatory. Thanks for looking - time for me to move onto something Japanese I think IMG_6377
  35. 1 point
    I’ve been a BM member for about a year now and this is my first WIP. I feel slightly apprehensive about this because: (a) I’m a comparative novice. having only just come back to the hobby last year after an absence of half a century; (b) I’m assembling a kit under the critical gaze of fellow Britmodellers many of whom are extraordinarily talented and experienced and; (c) carrying out the conversion is going to be complex. I bought the Revell Victor before the Airfix one came out as it was the only one available, and I wanted it to accompany the Airfix Vulcan which was my ‘first’ build last year (and blimey that was challenging). I've since added a couple of the new Airfix Victors to my modest stash, but they're B2 and K2 variants, so I decided to convert the Revell one into a B1 as I think it's the most 'pure' in shape and form. I have no idea how long this will take but I hope I’m up to the task. Please do give advice, point out errors and comment generally! So, here goes: I started with the cockpit. The Flightpath set contains some nice photo-etch for the instrument panel but as there is nothing for the rear crew’s panel I thought I’d make one. It’s not based on reality but I’m fairly pleased with the way it turned out, even if it is a touch over-scale. I made a mistake on the crews’ seats. I’ve seen the Airfix model features swivel seats but the Revell one doesn’t, so I decided to add interest into the rear of the cockpit by showing them turned. I then discovered that this wasn’t a feature on the early Victors because the seats were fixed. But having cut and glued them in place I decided to leave them as they were. My initial plan was to include the three crew members, so I decided not to paint the seat pads, just the backs and sides. I also made a table for the rear crew. Crikey, the camera doesn’t lie does it. They look terrible... I’ve dry-fitted the cockpit into the fuselage halves to see how it fits, and how much is likely to be visible. No-one is ever going to see anything of the crew other than the pilot and co pilot... At this point I thought I’d dry fit the resin intakes to see how they fit. They’re really very nice and hopefully won’t need too much filler (at least on the top). The underside is going to need a bit of filler though... They don’t seem to quite fill the slots in the fuselage on either side... Having done that I set about chopping the kit’s wings. Gulp. Not having done this before, I measured once, twice and three times before cutting but they didn’t fit the resin particularly well (and I didn’t take a photo). So I cut again, but this time along the wrong panel line and with a dry fit look as though they will go together quite nicely. I'm hoping no-one will notice that they're roughly 1.5mm shorter than they should be!.. I’m puzzled by the shallowness of the rear jet exhaust ends though. They have very little depth, so I’ve decided to deepen them a bit. I’m scared stiff of wrecking the resin parts so I’ve been really careful, and held the drill bits in my fingers and turned by hand.It’s going to be a slow job. This is where I am with that so far... As a diversion from drilling resin I thought I’d take a look at the wing assemblies and slice some carrots. What bothered me was glueing the sections together so that they all joined at the correct angle. So I enlisted the help of a couple of flexible steel rules to act like spllnts... That seemed to work. I’ve also added the metal wingtips... At this point I thought I’d attend to the pilot and co pilot. I have no idea why I’ve turned both their heads slightly towards port, but I have. I’ve added some very simple detailing with strips of masking tape to their seats, and added the photo-etched pull handles... They’re now sitting in the cockpit. Incidentally the blunt nose pitot thngy was broken in the box. I'll be replacing it eventually... And so far she looks like this. Still dry-fitted apart from the cockpit and the plastic parts of the wings. I've filled the joints with plasticard and a touch of filler. There's still an awful long way to go. I might have it finished by Christmas 2019 ! All comments welcome.
  36. 1 point
    Well, this caused some palpitations here in the capital city of 72 Land. The OP says fibreglass with resin. Also that it is a new company (but not necessarily new creators?) Fibreglass sounds a bit like it might be some gents from Modelsvit, which I think originally spawned from AModel. No talk of plastic parts in the post. But I'd take a Modelsvit version. Oh, be serious, I've wanted a (non-resin) 747 for so long I'll likely buy it unless it really is an obvious unbuildable disaster. All I have to do is survive until 2021!
  37. 1 point
    Tempted to get one, quite a nice airliner and a nice change from Boeing and Airbus even though Airbus bought it.... I still class it as a Bombardier. Photo of mine recently from Manchester.
  38. 1 point
    Hi everyone just finished this old classic,built pretty much oob with addition of wing conversion from 26decals, obviously it doesnt compare with modern kits but it was enjoyable and provided lots of nostalgia. Cheers Michael. DSC01060 by michael hobday, on Flickr DSC01059 by michael hobday, on Flickr DSC01057 by michael hobday, on Flickr DSC01056 by michael hobday, on Flickr DSC01055 by michael hobday, on Flickr
  39. 1 point
    Yeah, for scratching with styrene it really is. I could never cut those typical Star Wars-y plating notches cleanly by hand. The Cricut Maker with its knife blade attachment cuts them precisely down to 0.5mm, and the cut out bits can then be added back onto the plating for more precise raised detail. Check out these podracer engines I built entirely with machine-cut styrene (and cast greeblies):
  40. 1 point
    Hiya Folks, While tidying up I came across this model which had been built in the early 1990`s while serving in the Army,....it had seen better says, it`s wings had been warped by exposure to direct sunshine over the years, it had missing propeller blades and was generally tired,..... but I didn`t want to reduce it to produce as the Herk has a special place in my heart,.... and I remember seeing this 25th Anniversary Herk out on the pan at Lyneham. So,.... I decided to spruce it up a bit, try to repair it and straighten the wings and then present it to my local Parachute Regiment Association,..... at our next meeting tonight! DSCF3344_NEW by Tony OToole, on Flickr DSCF3347 by Tony OToole, on Flickr DSCF3349_NEW by Tony OToole, on Flickr I intend to replace it with a new build model quite soon! Cheers Tony
  41. 1 point
    - ref. K48079 - McDD CF-188 Hornet "RCAF 20 years of services" Sources: http://www.luckymodel.com/scale.aspx?item_no=KI-K48079 https://www.facebook.com/Kineticmodel/posts/982759475224497 Box art & scheme V.P.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    I've become infatuated with Eduards Spitfire (probably a bit too much) lately and that got me thinking. Would it be a good idea to chop the Griffin of the Airfix XII and marry that to an (preferably Overtrees) Eduard VIII airframe? That way you'll get a lovely detailed XII, with a sliding hood that isn't made in one piece and looks a bit weird. Or am I trying/thinking too much, since the Airfix XII is a quite fine kit anyway? //Christer
  44. 1 point
    Build the Special Hobby XII, correct the wing position and length issue if you wish, see links below. I linked Fernando's build above. There is much wailing and gnashing of teeth regarding the Special Hobby wing position and length, BUT if you are into the realm of considering combining two kits to make a Spitfire XII (or Seafire XV, as has been discussed here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234968126-148-airfix-seafire-xv/ before) then actually fixing the SH kit is really not hard, as while the wing trailing edge is too far back, the wing fillet on the fuselage is in the right place. this problem, with pics and suggestions are discussed in detail in the above link. The Tamiya kit has different problems to the SH kit, it's too short, a bit fat and wide, and the wing is too wide in chord. fixable if you can be bothered http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234968337-two-148-mkvb-spitfires-tamiya-and-airfix-new-spitfire-collection-expansion-project-finished-photos-now-in-the-rfi-section-080615/page-3#entry1763506 and http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234968337-two-148-mkvb-spitfires-tamiya-and-airfix-new-spitfire-collection-expansion-project-finished-photos-now-in-the-rfi-section-080615/page-3#entry1763656 Fixing the SH kit is easier than fixing the Tamiya. I'd also say only the Spitfire obsessed would bother, the SH kit is not horribly short, maybe 1.5mm and the wing position is at most 2mm too far back. They are limited run kits, and won't assemble as easily as say the Airfix XII, but correcting an Airfix XII is a lot more work, and the wing is in the wrong place on that kit as well. from http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234934966-airfix-pr-mkxix-what-happened/page-4 I don't have the SH Spit XII, but do have the Seafire XV, and it has a lot going for it. I would presume the SH Spit XII is much like their Seafire XV sprue shots here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234938689-spitfire-mkxii-148-special-hobby/ note well shaped prop blades. The rear shifted wing trailing edge is also visible here.
  45. 1 point
    Hi bob To clarify, the big quote is my work, saved as draft message. (useful as it saves all the pics etc) It was a 'work in progress' but as this came up I thought I'd put up my thoughts, incomplete as they are. I need to do more pics. I went quietly nuts over this, but dig the Airfix XII out, and look at horizontal panel line compared to the spinner, the Airfix panel line is maybe 1mm too low, but this affects the position on the exhaust and rocker bulges. It's small but makes a surprising difference to the look. In short, the Airfix XII is easily fixable, except for the hard bit, the prop blades. All The problem on the Airfix XII that apply to the Airfix Seafire XVII as well are the too deep fuselage and 'Tamiya' wing, as well as the prop blades. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234977338-airfix-148-seafire-fxvii/ http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/74606-supermarine-seafire/ good shot of the actual blade shapes
  46. 1 point
    Well it seems as though my very devious plan of `lighting the fires' has worked! After a bit of trial and error I have come up with an idea that has provided a decent representation of reheat in all four engines. Here is the system laid out over the model to see how it all works. Note how simple the system is. I have 6 white LED's, a battery and a controller. There are no switches (yet) as I am seeing how long the batteries will power the system for. If they work for a constant 3 days in June next year I will be happy. The plan will be to pull out one of the exhaust pipes and connect/disconnect the battery and then use that to switch the lights on and off rather than have an external switch. The one big downside of the system is that the battery is going to be unable to be be removed. I will still be able to charge it though and if it lasts for a few years then so be it. The LED's that are hanging outside the cockpit windows will be for the small lights that are lit under the cockpit in most photos of Concorde taking off that I have seen so far. I did purchase some yellow and amber LED's and wired those in but instead decided to go for white LED's. I had to come up with a solution that allowed for the white hot inner flame graduating to yellow then orange edges which hopefully looks realistic enough. I used some discs of clear plastic painted with yellow and orange clear paint with a small disc of aluminium foil in the middle. They are only temporary at this stage to test my idea and I am working on a slightly more robust system (maybe some resin disks that are a bit more solid). More effective with the lights off. Here is the first time that I have had it in the rotate position with the nacelles on. I can not wait to get this one finished!
  47. 1 point
    Thanks for the interest guys. Some more for you! Whilst I was perusing the instructions I came across a little hand symbol next to the pitot tube where they show it being fitted to the nose. I thought that it must have meant metal part. Upon inspecting the symbol legend at the start of the instructions, I almost choked on the nice Belgian chocolate that HpH provide in these kits when I saw that the hand symbol means `scratchbuild'. Now, I will scratch build stuff till the cows come home and usually find myself making parts for most of the kits that have passed over my bench. The thing is, this is a damned expensive kit that has left me still unable to bring myself to view my bank account balance, lest I find myself once again under my desk in the feotal position, mumbling about crappy Trumpeter kits! C'mon Hph, pull your finger out guys! there is alot lacking in this kit that I feel should be there. More of that to come. Anyway, I hunted around and came up with a very likely candidate for a pitot tube being one from the excellent Master model range. The Tornado unit in 48th being almost an exact replica of one according to the reference pics that I was viewing online. Here it is, fitted to the now modified nose. I also got a few years supply of primer, clear coat and white spray cans, which should be just the ticket to painting this beast when I ordered the pitot tube. I have started to assemble the cockpit by fitting the floor and rear bulkhead. Now I am not sure how the person who did the test assembly on the prototype of the model fitted these pieces into the fuselage, nor could I work out the way the instructions directed a series of twists and turns to get them in there. One thing is for sure, and that is that neither the rear bulkhead or the floor do not fit into the fuselage through the opened nose of the model. I had my great mate Brent over who acted as a second set of eyes on the problem and he came up with a solution of cutting copies of each part from thin plastic card that would allow each part to be bent as it passed through the opening. Great idea! After retrieving the bulkhead from the rear of the model by shaking it back out through the front one too many times, I needed to devise an even more devious plan. Using the plastic copy, I cut that part in half and worked out what could be done using the original part, and some lateral thinking did the rest. The first date was almost a disaster! It just wont fit! Lets go a bit easier on the opening with something a bit more flexible Here is the fix. Cut the rear bulkhead into two pieces, just below the shelf that the floor sits on. Shave the rear corners off the floor where they will be covered by cockpit parts. Fill the fuselage with expanding foam just behind where the rear bulkhead will sit (to stop it from falling back into the fuselage when you are trying to fit it.) Fit the two parts together once inside the fuselage Fit the floor and once glued, I used some more expanding foam under the floor to give it more support.
  48. 1 point
    As I finished the R4 Fourgonnette with a little weathering I did this one as well, keeping it quite light. Again it's slightly more visible IRL, but not very much. And with that this one is also finished. I have a second set of the resin parts in my stash I would like to do another version from, but as it's so much corrections and scratch building required I wonder if I will get to that in foreseeable future. We'll see... I have added more pictures in the RFI section here.
  49. 1 point
    My first post of the year after a bit of an absence (lots of ups and downs over the last two months - demise of a much loved family cat, saying good bye to an old car, purchasing a new car, promotion, arrival of two new kittens etc. etc.). This is actually my first completed model in a while (started back in beginning of 2012, languished 90 % complete for 6 months, finally completed last week!). Completed as the prototype Vickers Type 667 - I am a sucker for big shiny aircraft! Finished with a Tamiya rattle can.
  50. 1 point
    Hi All! I just finished my newest Tu-134A in the fleet.... The modell is the AZ Model and the decal is published by HAD... I hope this is good enough to show here.. This livery was weared in 1987 on this plane.
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