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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/04/2019 in all areas

  1. 30 points
    If you like the Spitfire and have not read Jeffrey Quill's book "Spitfire", do so. This is my Spitfire Griffon Prototype in the form it was when "raced" against the FW190 and Hawker Typhoon July 22, 1942 at Farnborough. It's not in Quills book, but I read somewhere that Supermarine had put a pair of A-wings on DP845 for the occasion, so this is how I made it. Its the 1/72 Tamiya Spitfire I with a XII nose grafted on. I rather like the look of it with the pointed spinner. Hasegawa IX canopy, Xtracolour enamels, decals from the spares box and DP845 done on inkjet printer paper. /Finn Bonus: Here's the FW190. Tamiya 1/72 FW190A3.
  2. 17 points
    #28/2019 And another one finshed. Hasegawa kit with Authentic Decals, AK Real Color AMT-7 and AMT-11, EZ Line for antenna wires and brake lines, Eduard seatbelts Build thread here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235061405-lend-lease148-curtiss-p-40k-warhawk-soviet-airforcevvs/ The model shows an aircraft of the 760th fighter regiment, 261st composite division in Karelia winter 1943-44. DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0016 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0017 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0018 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0019 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0020 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
  3. 12 points
    Build report can be found here: Comments are welcomed as always Ran
  4. 9 points
    Well, they're coming back today for a second showing, so hopefully... Also, who sent me a RAF side cap? It arrived at my office today. Was it one of you? Fess up!
  5. 7 points
    Little activity due to the bandaids. The control wheel in the kit can't be seen in any of the photos I have, so replacement parts are made. The kit's attempt at an instrument panel is substituted by a piece of styrene, later to be detailed. Rudder pedals, absent in the kit are also made: I am dabbling at making a simplified resemblance of the Franklin engine, to see if it can be included:
  6. 4 points
    That's a decision you'll need to make for you. Every way has it's advantages and disandvantages... maybe try it out on a testsubject (empy bottle or the like...) Only thing missing is his radio control...
  7. 4 points
    As per Adrian’s advice I applied a wash and gave it a coat of Alclad matt varnish. It perhaps looks a tad grubbier than I would prefer, but given the moulding quality and the fact that much of it will be hidden, yet glimpsed I’m okay with it. It certainly gives it more definition. The forward bulkhead received the same treatment. Here is a better view of the cockpit floor after having a dry wash and some black gloss and blobs of klear in the compass. gave the IPs a dry brush then picked out a few details. I glued small pieces of clear acetate to the backs of the IPs and applied a coat of black. The macro close-up is pretty unforgiving and they look a bit grubby. Okay they’re not Eduard jobs but they do look better than the close-up suggests – but I would say that wouldn’t I Anyroad better than the original kit offerings. Finally I can start assembling the pit and get the fuselage joined up. More next time.
  8. 4 points
    Evening all, Many thanks gentlemen for the very kind and encouraging comments: I really appreciate them all. I have done some more construction work and painted the bulk of the model and it is beginning to look like what you see in the photos. I completed the horizontal tail unit by cutting and inserting between the rear fuselages a piece of 30 thou card with Evergreen strip (10 x 20 thou) ribs. I also added the small units on the outer sides of the fuselage plus the tail bracing, and then the two rods which were set between the forward parts of the fuselages: I assume that these were for the engine controls on the starboard side (the pilot sat on the port side). Painting followed - mainly acrylics for the upper and lower surfaces but Humbrol enamel white for the floats because I have some left from the past and I find that it gives a better coverage than the acrylic paint. The struts were Revell SM 382 which is another enamel - I just like the soft brown to represent the pine of the struts. The cockades were home printed and the serial came form an old set of RNAS/RFC numerals from Pegasus. The rudder stripes were painted: The white dots on the upper surfaces are holes for the struts. To put the top wing in place I used a procedure which I have found from experience is most suitable for multi-bay biplanes. I put some of the cabane struts into the lower wing - in this case the pair on the inner side of each fuselage, and the outer pairs of main wing struts. I used ordinary styrene cement and placed the inner struts against the fuselage sides first, then quickly added the two outer pairs and lowered the top wing. I had put drops of cement into the respective holes in the top wing. I was lucky because three of the fuselage struts fitted exactly and the fourth only need a minor adjustment. The outer struts were a little more fiddly but still went into place quickly. The whole assembly was jigged with paint pots to keep it square while it dried out overnight. The result was what I desired: This structure was quite robust when dry and allowed me to put in the remaining struts, one at a time, without problems. After these had been put into place I again left the assembly for a couple of hours to set properly before I added the kingposts on the outer parts of the top wing: The model is now ready to add the floats and that will be the next stage. Thanks for looking. P
  9. 3 points
    Hello! This is my new kit. In this time it was a testing some new technologies for me. Plastic set of excellent quality. But anyway I used aftermarket sets. Resin engine, fuel tank, gunsight and exhaust from Quikboost. Machine gun barrel from Master. Resin wheels from Reskit. New to me was the use of decal rivets HGW. Paints HATAKA. Weathering oil dots and washes, salt dots and pigments. Decal is Berna decal.
  10. 3 points
    I’m thinking one of these, I’m sure its in the stash with the decals
  11. 3 points
    Hello everyone, For version 1A. The magnetos of the Eduard Kit will be replaced by the Bendix magnetos of the Tamiya Kit. As well as the distribution ring. Creation of notches to adapt the Bendix distribution ring of the Tamiya Kit Painting of the engine block slightly weathered for the moment See you soon, Sweety (Google Translate)
  12. 3 points
    ................. What time is it when a elephant sits on a fence? Time to get a new fence. What's grey, beautiful and wears glass slippers? Cinderelephant! ........................double whammy!!!!
  13. 3 points
    I've made a start on the details by filling in the large mounting holes for the kit ladders and building my own: They're from 0.5mm brass and styrene rod and slivers of styrene strip. Still over-scale, but they have the right section (the kit part has square section rails) and are a good bit lighter than what was provided. I also added a couple of missing hand grabs on the bonnet. I did a couple of other filling jobs at the same time, for the mounting holes for stairs on the right equipment box, and blanking off the underside of the bumper where the mounting pins for the bonnet fit in. I may have painted myself into a corner with the cab - mounting the frame means I can't drop it into place inside the railings, so I either need to add those last, or cut the frame away and put it back. I think I might do the latter - if I drill up through the mounting posts into the frame and then cut flush with the mounting plates, I can pin it exactly back into place and keep the work I've done to fill around the joins. I also need to decide about the mounting holes for the railings - they're a bit big but the real ones do protrude. Cheers, Will
  14. 3 points
    RF-4Cs of the 16th Tac Recce Squadron, 363rd Tac Fighter Wing out of Shaw AFB, at Nellis AFB for Red Flag 83-2, January 1983. 66-0470 66-0473 66-0476, still wearing the old "JO" tail code 66-0465 EDIT: Had some additional input on these jets. The 363rd was in transition for a couple of years before this event, slowly transitioning from a recce wing to a fighter wing: - The wing was redesignated as a Tac Fighter Wing in 1981 - The 62TRS was transferred to the 67TRW at Bergstrom AFB in 1982. The 33TRS was inactivated in 1982 and her RF-4Cs were either consolidated in the 16TRS or sent to the 67TRW at Bergstrom AFB. - The 16TRS gave up their red and black/white checks tail band for the red tail band previously used by the 62nd in late 1982. F-16 squadrons began being assigned to the 363rd, the RF-4Cs were retired in 1989, and the 363rd assumed the identity of the 20th Fighter Wing 1993. Thanks for looking, Sven
  15. 3 points
    I decided to push the boat out and made a somewhat extravagant purchase for this model, picking up some 3D printed parts for the bridge structure, along with the associated bits and a couple of torpedo tubes. Airfix should be commended for their efforts in representing all of these details back in the day, but the 3D printed parts are a great improvement, as can be seen in the following photos. After a clean up I gave the parts a coat of primer and brushed on the top colour, then added the completed assembly to the deck structure. Airfix kit parts. by John L, on Flickr 3D printed replacements by John L, on Flickr I have also had a look at a solution for fixing the 6in brass barrels to the turrets and think that I have a come up with a workable idea. I removed the small web from behind the forward centre portion. I then filled the gap with a piece of plastic and drilled this out to accept the barrels, here is the result of my first attempt. by John L, on Flickr
  16. 3 points
    I managed a little more work on this build last night by adding a floor. Once I have sorted out the seat positions, and a few other small details I should be able to get some paint on the internal bits and close up the fuselage, things should move along a bit quicker after that. by John L, on Flickr
  17. 2 points
    I was travelling from Spain with my family about 7 or 8 years ago, I saw a guy in the departure lounge with a plexi glass canopy by his feet, I just went up to him and said Hurricane? he said yes, I can't remember the conversation but he was restoring a Hurricane and had just picked it up to take back to the UK. Strange interesting but true! My daughter asked how I new, considering my aviation interest and all the air shows we had been to how could I miss it. Made my day.
  18. 2 points
    Splinter good, digi camo better! If any of our Swedish members knows of a kit, any kind of kit, of the Globaleye, jag lyssnar!
  19. 2 points
    Before detailing inlet I have decided to model the wing. Also rear fuselage was added to assembly. It was not easy to find wing profile and give correct shape to the outer leading edge but finally it has been completed: I have also reshaped the engine fairing because the first attempt was not looking right. Serkan
  20. 2 points
    @Dansk, won an Airfix Harrier on evil bay, sadly not the vintage boxing with the built kit on the front, but still suitably aged. Going to build it as I would any other kit, still be a gluey finger print on it somewhere, raised panel lines and my nemesis “White paint”. I may even get it to sit on all of its wheels, instead of the cockeyed one I remember from my youf.
  21. 2 points
    Think of yourself as a psychoanalyst and the Dujin kit as a patient. What is being revealed is the subconscious of the kit. It's not pretty, granted, but it's the first step to the cure. Call what you see now "an Air Bubble Complex", and a "Mismatch Syndrome". Doctor Stuart, we are confident the patient will survive. And, of course, we concur. Cheers
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points
    A build from 9 years ago, a beautiful very limited production run kit cast by master modeler Matías Hagen from Argentina: The detail of the parts of this resin kit is outstanding and the instructions are very clear. The dedication on the making of the parts becomes evident when you see that the cushion, a separate part from the seat, has a teeny tiny arrow in the back pointing the right direction for its position, since the cushions also have some relief depicted. Although some components (fus sides, wheel pants) are keyed (they do have pins and correspondent tiny holes) I opted for sanding the fuselage mating surfaces carefully flat. The guiding pins are very useful though regarding the tail surfaces, wings and other pieces that need alignment. You get about 60 parts. No decals for this hot rod, since the original had no marks, which comes as a relief. Exquisite kit of a delightful plane, a true pleasure. Matias' blog: http://72topia.blogspot.com/ Matías painstakingly produces limited runs of unbelievably detailed kits in resin. He is working now on future releases, check it out.
  24. 2 points
    73ft Motor Torpedo Boat Atlantic Models 1/350 Motor Torpedo Boat (MTB) 379 was the prototype of a new Royal Navy design for a 73-foot fast attack flush decked wooden MTB combining torpedo and heavier gun armament. Chief designer was Commander Peter du Cane, Managing Director of Vosper Ltd, Portsmouth, UK. Power was provided by three 1400 horsepower Packard petrol engines. Top speed was 39 knots at full power. Armament was four 18-inch torpedo tubes, one 20mm Oerlikon gun and two twin Lewis .303 machine guns. Sixteen of this Type 1 design were built as MTB 380-395 and five Type 2 boats were built as MTB 524-527 featuring a six-pounder gun. MTB 379 was ordered in 1942 and built in early 1943 with the other boats being built thereafter. These MTBs were widely used in naval operations in the English Channel and along the coast of occupied Europe until 1945. The Model The kit arrives in a small, ziplock poly bag, complete with single piece hull, a small resin block and a small etched brass fret. The main hull, which is around 1.5 inches, (37.5mm) long, and is a beautifully moulded item, although the review example had two very small defect on the starboard side lower hull, near the chine and a slight moulding stub on the bow and stern, but these are all below the waterline so when using in a diorama they may well be ignored, unless the modeller is really picky, even then they will easily be removed with a sharp scalpel or a few swipes of a sanding stick. The rest of the hull and "superstructure" is very clean and nicely done. Another small bag contains the rest of the resin items, these are the four 18” torpedo tubes and four ventilator cowls, although the review sample only came with three as one seems to have been knocked off the moulding block and it definitely wasn’t in the bag. These items have a small amount of soft resin flash and pour stubs which are readily cleaned up. Otherwise they are once again nicely moulded. The rest of the parts are contained on the single, smallish etched brass sheet. These include the mast assembly, which is folded together to make the complete mast, with the radar antenna already in place. Just the anemometer and yardarm to attach and it’s ready to glue into position. The forward mounted twin 20mm cannon mounting consists of the guns which need to be folded into position, the separate sight, pintle, which isn’t actually needed on this kit as the pedestal is pre-moulded on the hull and shield. The bandstand railings are then carefully rolled to shape and glued in place. The rest of the brass fittings include the boats wheel and windshield for the bridge, two liferings, three deck hatches, jackstaff, anchor and railings for the bow and stern. On the forward pair of tubes there is a rocket projector, each required to be folded to make the complete part. On the rear tubes there are a pair of twin Vickers machine guns, which like the Oerlikon also need to be folded to shape along with the pintle and each gun fitted with a drum magazine. If required the model can be fitted with the three propeller shaft skegs, propellers and rudders, but as these kit will most likely find themselves in a diorama or vignette then they can be left off. Conclusion It’s great to see this and other narrow seas boats being re-released by Atlantic Models, having been lost to the modelling world since White Ensign went down. This is a great little kit and would be a good starter piece for those not used to working with resin or etch. Look forward to seeing other boats in the range being re-released as well as number of new kits which are or the drawing board. The instructions show the paint scheme for MTB 379 using Colourcoats paints, but if you wish you can paint it for whatever boat you wish to depict as there are no decals to worry about. Review sample courtesy of Peter Hall of
  25. 2 points
    F-15As from the 9TFS at Red Flag 83-2, Nellis AFB, January 1983. 77-0062 77-0069 77-0077 77-0102 Thanks for looking, Sven
  26. 2 points
    Painting is still some way off, so I shall leave further discussion on that for now. I shall be digging around for information, in case something turns up beyond my current resources. I will say I will mostly be cobbling together markings, so one profile I have that has some lovely badges adorning various parts of the cowlings and nose may not get a showing! The lurgy has struck HK Towers, although I am not completely under its thrall quite yet. The good news as far as the car is concerned is it now has some new "all-weather" tyres on the front, and the alignment has been sorted out. Apparently, the odd wear on the offside tyre had been caused by that wheel being several degrees off where it ought to be. Oh, and the ABS is still functioning, as I discovered after braking a bit sharpish on some wet leaves. Just that pesky brake sensor to fix, then. Onwards! With fairly satisfactory progress on the nacelle front - or rear, at least - I spent an hour or two pondering the fuselage. With the Extra Tech PE detail pack, it might be some while before the cockpit is detailed up, but that shouldn’t stop me working out other changes. The bomb bay doors on the Airfix moulding seemed wrong. Measured from the drawing, I marked out new lines to be scribed. The old lines will need to be filled. I haven’t found any images online that show any details of the camera bay installed on the 17P. I plan, therefore, to open the camera windows, and glaze them. I think I’ll just blank the windows with black material. Just a final note on the nacelles. It seems, on the Revell moulding, the nacelle sides are angled where the real thing was square to the wing surface. The angle leads to the nacelles being a bit wider in places than ideal, meaning the tapering rear end is fatter than it should be. Short of rebuilding the nacelles completely, I shall live with the error.
  27. 2 points
    I don't think I could have got this far without pins, for the float struts, wings and tail planes. Essential to align the parts and strengthen the joint.
  28. 2 points
    Hi there. The build is over and can be followed here: Comments are wellcomed Ran
  29. 2 points
    I've been able to get by with airbrushing them in 1/48. Decals would probably be a good idea for 1/72 though.
  30. 2 points
    Michael - I'm not sure if you're joking or whether there's not a twinkle in your eye When I put the Semtex on - I thought B...…… That's a bit garish! I nearly redid it with a duller colour I'm not an absolute fan of scale effect and the colours will definitely mute down with a filter and washes. I've looked at your builds and you've really cracked the wash tones I'll see how the MS3 contrasts (not a lot I suspect) Rob
  31. 2 points
    C. Generous to a fault Rob. Dear Lord. I'll have to get the Navy in if this dribbling continues Giorgio! (I'm assuming that this clip isn't factually accurate regarding naval routine?) Gracious of you Tomo. Not sure about consuming the bally stuff but the Elegoo resin itself is surprisingly odour free - which I gather is not always the case with some of the 3D printers. Free associate or die! You are most dearly welcome Bill and a pleasure to share with such knowledgable companions. Humble thanks friends. Will do Mr. B. The bench will seem most bare without that slender frame in attendance. Such a pleasing aircraft for not adequately explainable reasons! Most kind Terry and yes, it'll be a binary build next time so hours of fun watching me get the parts from two kits confused! Two Sea Vixens Benedikt! That is frankly awesome. 'Game of Felines'! * Crisp receives lawyer's bill for over-provision of credit, charged at hourly rate and including fee for drafting forum response.... Frightfully decent of you to say so Roger. It's heartening to have given some longevity to this charming period kit and keep it in circulation for a bit longer. I wonder how many unmade copies of it still remain? Tiny step completed tonight getting the modification done to the front 'bell' of the port Cheetah: Spun in a deWalt hand drill and shaped with a Stanley blade held 'twixt finger and thumb. Despite the seductions of freedee printing it will never imho replace the sheer animal satisfaction of turning something to shape by hand in this manner. Fixed into place now in order to provide the required extension: Final shaping and blending to proceed in the next session and then lash some paint on. Shifting spectral lights in the hall here in the mornings at the moment, pale winter sun through the leaves. Creating a fluctuating camera obscura on the wall by the kitchen door, changing moment-by-moment as the earth rotates: Every house a Stonehenge to the sun. Tony
  32. 2 points
    did a preshading, applied a layer of MRP Dark Aluminium and then some shading with MRP White Aluminium again DSC_0003 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
  33. 2 points
    Some pictures from the build - the rest can be found at RFI
  34. 2 points
    Hello, the hot summer here is already started... so modelling is slowing down. But some progress are going on. The IP cover with the collimator is fitted. I added a map's bag on the left side. The front wind shield has been black painted inside the frame and than glued to the fuselage. No problem here, the fit is almost perfect so no filler is required. Despite the kit includes PE vortex generators, these parts has been replaced by me using thin plasticard strips and added to both side of fuselage's rear section. I have also replaced the vertical trim and actuators using plasticard. PE strakes has been added to the mid-chord of the wings. Small details as reinforcement plates, heat discharge, drain pipes and anti-collision bacon has been added around the fuselage. A light dark wash was applied to highlight panel lines and any eventual imperfection of the work. The model almost ready for the next painting phase. CIAO! Piero
  35. 1 point
    Hawks now ready for matt varnish, was unable to find a suitably bright red but cracked on regardless
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    Excellent work - thanks for sharing!
  38. 1 point
    Looking forward to seeing you getting started with this one. and congratulations on the awards very well deserved IMHO beefy
  39. 1 point
    It's a model, display it as you wish. If it were to form part part of a flight line diorama then to show the flaps would be wrong. Flaps are closed as soon as possible when taxying because they can pick up damage from wheel debris. When parked everything is closed so no foreign objects as such as birds or wind blown rubbish can get in. Ground staff may pump down the flaps as part of a check or after fight inspection, and then close them again. I seem to remember that on engine shut down on PR.9's the flaps were dropped for the A/F inspection and then pumped up by the riggers. I have a couple of photos which show this to be the case. John
  40. 1 point
    The point is that if you use lets call them 'original colors' you may end up with dark lump. What will look OK on 1:200 or 1:350 will not be the same on 1:700. Washes will only make it darker again, you have to anticipate that as well. In general if its too bright, darkening isn't really a problem. Unfortunately it doesn't work the other way around.... Contrasts are one thing, general darkness is the other. Don't you worry about twinkles, when my eyes are getting red, that's the scene in which you run hahaha
  41. 1 point
    Mat irvine quoting Mike trim in an issue of scale models .it may also be mentioned in Mike trims book
  42. 1 point
    Too cool. Love me a good Jeep......especially with flamethrower !! Can't wait to see how this baby turns out Andy. A pity there's no driver figure, reckon you could have given him a singed/blackened cap !
  43. 1 point
    That is one crazy looking aeroplane. Or is it two? Thanks for describing the assembly procedure. I have only put together a multibay biplane once, but my method was less efficient. The struts do look like pine.
  44. 1 point
    Unfortunately that is reality, aviation is by far the majority of builds in any forum or show. However some of us are trying to rebalance the situation. Since January of 2018 we’ve had the M3/M4 Sherman-Lee-Grant build, Mk.IV Panzer, Mk.VI Tiger, Patton-Pershing, and currently T-54/55 builds. Ive hosted the Patton-Pershing build and just missed my chance for all things British AFV’s. I will also be hosting the Mk.V Panther group build next fall. There is a T-34 STGB coming in the spring. So there have been a number of builds related to armor recently. Im currently running the Movie-TV/Sci-fi/Whif group build in which pretty much anything under the sun real or imagined can be built. So that is another option ? Dennis
  45. 1 point
    Hello again, Here is the second model I have completed this year after another Eagle. Started this one thinking it would be a fast build to get into painting quick, and just finished it after 6 months of not a lot of free time. Very decent kit, the main issues being the simplistic exhausts and the overly thick closed canopy. Still an enjoyable build with not a lot to fix, and trying to spruce up that gunship gray was also a fun painting experience. 1/72 Academy #12550, Twobobs Da'Heath decals, KA Models exhausts, Reskit wheels, weapons from the kit, Skunkworks, GWH and Tamiya. Thanks for watching.
  46. 1 point
    I have built a few. Sigh. Mine came with anti-depressants and aspirin, did yours? or do you have one of the old releases that came with the rope? Sacre bleu!
  47. 1 point
    Finished! The post and gun mount are bits of styrene and the Lewis gun and ammo case are 1/35 Resicast bits. Very nice casting of course. Posted in RFI.
  48. 1 point
    Hello my friends, after a hot & long summer break I'm back to my model desk. It's time to start the painting phase... my favourite phase. First of all, the canopy and cockpit were masked with tape and paper, then a good layer of a solid grey has been airbrushed as primer: although there are a number of specific products around for this job, I still prefer to use a cheap and reliable acrylic plain color mixed with some clear gloss. Nice landing gears eh?... After 12 hours I checked if there was any fault of filler... luckily everything seems ok... so I sprayed an almost black colour along the panel lines. Grigio Mare Scuro (Dark Sea Grey) and Verde Scuro (Dark Green) camouflage paints were airbrushed using blue-tak rolls. Black was sprayed for the tail fin band and circular antenna on the top of fuselage. The anti glare area in front of the windshield was spayed black too but then I discovered that actually on the AMI G.91R it was Dark Green, so I resprayed in this color. Some post-shading is already done too. Alluminio (Flat Aluminum) was airbrushed on the under surfaces. Black antenna panels were sprayed too. At this time I had to respray in Zinch Chormate Green the undercarriage bays too. Now a good clear gloss layer is a must in preparation for the washing and decal phases. A dark wash was applied. CIAO! Piero
  49. 1 point
    Spent the weekend building - these twin bombers sure provide ample opportunities for all sort of fun. As the interior was mostly installed on one side and ready for fuselage closing, I decided to put some attention to the rest of the a/c. Started with the engine nacelles. My last build was a Trumpeter - with their overall good engineering. This is a Revell-Monogram and some of the engineering here is, well, missing See for example how the MLG doors are attached to the nacelle's main frame - nothing to locate or firmly attach - just put it on. The part's contour matches the contour of the inner side of the frame - and this should do. Surprisingly enough - it works - just requires gluing in steps, waiting and a lot of patience and finely tuning the location while the glue dries. Went on to fix the turrets. Took some time, filing and schmoozing around with the parts. The moving part was painted Tamyia X-10 Gun Metal and I will paint the barrels later on. This is going to be a challenge when painting the body. I did tell you it's a Revell-Monogram, did I? This had to go off. Next I worked on the engines: The though of super detailing the engines with ignition lines came and went through my had real quick. I eneded up just painting these with yellow/gold marking pen, added some black for the push rods with another pen, painted the gearbox gray and draw a dot where the engine manufacture's plate would be. I also painted the inner part of the cowling Tamyia X-11 Silver as I could not find a good ref. picture for this part. The spare parts I got from Revell were missing the propeller pins. I had to manufacture a replacement, using my Dremel,. punch, some spruce and some thinking. Also had to make sure the pins will not be pushed inside and get lost. I concluded with adding some weight - anticipating a heavy kit with strong tail-sitting will. Next I noticed a problem in one of the MLG's. I'm not sure if the little pin was missing or was chopped off. I glued some small plastic disk. I collect these discs when I find them - usually attached as stand alone ejector pins. These sure came in handy this time. My original idea was to add the MLG's at the end - to save myself a good chance of breaking them while handling and painting. Several tries at dry fitting these just from the outside made me understand there is a reason the instructions call for doing this before attaching the nacelles to the wing. When all this was done it was time for closing the fuselage. This was done in steps: Last for today was attaching the nacelles to the wing: There is a lot of filing and filling to be done - but the mojo is on LOW and I'll call it a day. Comments are welcomed as usual. Ran
  50. 1 point
    I'm starting to understand why people love some much these big 1/48 bombers. With lots and lots of parts I can spend multiple sittings just painting, gluing, adjusting and detailing parts before getting to installing the big elements and closing up the build. I spent a couple of sittings just picking up detail and installing the inner parts of this A quick update on the status of the build as of today: I forgot to paint the yellow strips on the bomb. There was no way I was going to mask or paint the yellow by itself. Finally got the idea I can use narrow strips of masking tape as the stripe itself. This is a first-of build - so I go easy I used this product of Mr.Hobby: The final thing looks like that: I then glues the various internal doors and parts - first to one side of the fuselage - but I dry fitted the other while the parts where drying - to avoid any misalignment when I combines the fuselage parts. From aft to front: Note the patch of floor still not covered with interior green You can also see the bombs on their racks installed. That's it for today. Ran
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