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  1. The iconic Mustang. I’ve never built one, so this was a must. OOB.
    40 points
  2. Hi everyone, Just put the last few bits on my attempt at Kitty Hawks 1/48 RF-101C Voodoo kit Finished to represent `The Iron Eyeball` of the 45th TRS/460th TRW, `Polka Dots`, based at Tan Son Nhut, South Vietnam, around 1970 Carried out a few improvements to the base kit, mainly around the intakes as the ones in the kit are incorrect for this version...... and after all ready having built a Monogram/Koster conversion and not realising until after I posted it, thought I`d better try and get it right this time. Also tried to correct a circular `vent/intake` about halfway down the right hand side of the fuselage, but as its in a dark area of camo` you can`t see it much anyway. Another area that`s not right is the instrument panel so I `crow barred` the wallet open and invested in an Eduard cockpit set after much deliberation. The kits decals didn`t really inspire me, especially as Recce Voodoos often carried interesting nose art, so I also invested in Print Scales Polka Dots Sheet ( No 48-050 )..... .....and found a scheme with slime lights, so I didn`t have to sand them off. I had a struggle with these as they wouldn`t release from the backing paper and folded up as soon as you tried to move them. In the end only used a few and the remainder came from the kit which silvered really badly and I spent a lot of time painting the silvering out. Still, I`m glad to have a more modern one in the collection but was disappointed about the amount work to get there, on a not exactly cheap kit. Hope you enjoy, thanks for looking. Cheers Russ
    39 points
  3. P-40N | 1/72 | Hasegawa United States, 49th Fighter Group, 7th Fighter Squadron -- Lt. J.B. Paris, Pilot -- New Guinea, 1944 I finished this on November 27th, 2019. This is the P-40N flown by Lt. Joel B. Paris. I love P-40s, and this is the first 'N' model I've done. The 'N' was the last P-40 model made and is easily recognized by its distinctive "squared off" canopy behind the cockpit for better visibility. The 'N' model was also the most produced P-40 Model. Joel B. Paris III volunteered for duty in 1942 and flew 167 combat missions in P-40s and P-38 in the Pacific. He had 9 confirmed victories and was decorated many times including the Silver Star, Distinguished Flying Cross and Purple Heart. He retired from the Air Force a Major General in 1970. The kit was typical good quality Hasegawa, with no fit problems and nice external detail (although the cockpit is a little sparse). The kit provides the wrong wheels (the P-40N had a lighter landing gear than previous models, including a smaller diameter spoked wheel) and I had to buy some nice quality SBS resin replacements (oh... darn! ). The kit also had an unfortunate seam right in the middle of the flaps on the underside of the aircraft, which were easily filled. The canopy didn't fit as well as I'd like and I am living with a gap at the bottom rather than try to trim it to fit because that could go very wrong. WIP is here. Special thanks to @Jackson Duvalier for introducing me to SBS resin wheels and alerting me that I missed filling in the flaps before it was too late! Also special thanks to @Corsairfoxfouruncle for providing me with info on interior colors. Paints: Mr. Surfacer 1500 black primer > Hataka RAF Dark Earth and RAF Dark Green topside > Mr. Color C306 (FS36270) Underside > Mr. Color White for the tail > Mr. Color White and Tamiya Royal Blue for the spinner. Decals: Kit decals Weathering/Wear: Tamiya weathering pastels (black) > white oil paint dot filtering for sun fading > oil staining and dirt streaks with Black and Burnt Umber watercolor Paints > Chips with Testors Chrome enamel applied with a spotter brush > Vallejo European Dust Dry pigment for dust on the wheels Thanks for looking! Questions, Comments and constructive criticism welcome!
    24 points
  4. 18 points
  5. Hello all, Here is my recently completed Hobbyboss 1/48 Su-27 Flanker, marked as an SM1 of the Ukrainian Air Force. Given serial number 36911014104, this jet was originally marked as '45 Red' before being stored at Mirgorod AB in 2009. In 2013 the jet was refurbished and marked as '45 Blue' with the then new digital camouflage. Extras used included Foxbot paint masks and decals, Quickboost K-36 ejection seat, New Ware masks, Master pitot tube and Quickboost F-14 FOD covers (modified to fit). The paints are all Mr Paint. Build thread is here A few photos as I quite like this one! Coastal kits base, patch from the Ukrainian AF team at RIAT this year. Thanks for looking. Dave
    16 points
  6. I got the current version, Il-2: Battle of Stalingrad on Steam, where it's currently heavily discounted, and then once I'd created my account, got most of the rest of the games as add-ons direct from them, and they loaded to my Steam copy of the base game. I have all four of the currently out games in the series (Stalingrad, Moscow, Kuban, and Bodenplatte, which is the best because it has Spitfires, and I've pre-ordered Normandy, because come on). Today was not a good day. At all. Grant was screaming all last night, so I got very little sleep, and most of that on the couch. I wasn't too worried, because we were having a showing today and I'd cleaned for much of yesterday, and so there wasn't too much to do before we left the house. Since I was so bushed, I stupidly went upstairs to get some more rest in our bedroom, and Mrs P (who was apparently having a good dream) and I rested in bed despite the increasingly ominous silence from downstairs. Every parent knows better than to do this, and some of them are even smart enough to not have to find out first hand why you don't. Mrs P heard some banging from downstairs that sounded like the kids had gotten into maybe the pots and pans, which obviously we didn't want, since we had a showing today. She went downstairs, and then a few moments later, I heard her yell, in a high, strained, unfamiliar voice, "COME SEE WHAT YOUR CHILDREN HAVE DONE!" As soon as they're my children, I know it's trouble. Our kids are cute, sweet, full of love. My children are the devil's handmaidens. And indeed, their true father, Satan, was working through the boys this morning. This is what greeted my eyes when I came downstairs: Gentle reader, if a Yeti had been making tender love to the Loch Ness Monster on my kitchen table, I would not have been more shocked. Additionally, Winston was bleeding, having cut his hand on one of the many knives he'd liberated from the knife block, the better to cut open the bags of flour with. A second later, my phone buzzed: our showing was in two hours. I don't remember precisely a lot of what happened in the next two hours. I yelled at Winston so loudly that he wet his pants, which quite frankly was the least of both my problems and his, since at this point he and his brother were about one wrong word away from a pair of shallow graves in the backyard. After Winston's injury (mercifully minor, and we know how lucky we were on that front) was cleaned and inspected, he and his brother were confined to quarters, with a bit more yelling from me just in case they were thinking about any funny business. I'm not a yeller by nature, but I inherited my father's volcanic and terrifying temper, and I've spent my entire life trying to keep it under control; I've succeeded, too, because if I were my dad, the boys would be dead now, because I'm pretty sure being spanked until your buttocks fall off is fatal, but it turns out that when you're small, largely defenceless, and dependent upon much larger people to take care of you, having one fly off the handle and scream at you at the top of their lungs is plenty horrifying and confusing enough to reduce you into a paralytic state of submission. (Mrs P, meanwhile, is all for cancelling Christmas, but I'm keeping the X-Wing we bought for Winston if we do, it looks cool as hell.) Clemenceau famously remarked at the start of the Great War that "To die is nothing. We must win. And for that we need all men's power. The weakest will have his share of glory. There come times, in the live of peoples, when there passes over them a tempest of heroic action", and indeed, that's what happened with Mrs P and I. I know Mrs P is the target of a certain amount of derision in my posts here, and indeed, there are some days when I wonder if I haven't married her as a public service to single men seeking redheads the world over, but in a true crisis, unfolding around her in real time, she is exceptional, and the two of us sprang into action. I've never felt more part of a team in my life as we methodically cleaned the entire ground floor of our house. It took us almost exactly one hour and fifty minutes, and when we left, the kitchen looked like this: We then dragged our lightly traumatized children off to get groceries while our house was shown. That's been my day. I feel like an empty bag of skin with all of the more important bits removed, and I'm just going to flop over onto my keyboard and sleep now.
    15 points
  7. Hello, Here is my latest model: a 'classic' Messerschmitt Bf109E-4. The kit is the Airfix one in 1/72. I wanted to finish it with a white nose and found this option on an Almark decal sheet. I added a few details, from scratch or from aftermarket. The WIP can be found here: WIP Messerschmidt Bf109E-4 - Airfix 1/72 Cheers, Antoine
    14 points
  8. Hi guys and gals, Can you believe this is my first Messerschmitt 109? I've been modelling for years and never got round to making one of these seminal aircraft! Well, I've now broken my duck so here's the very nice Revell G-6 Late kit in a dramatic nightfighter scheme (Red 2, 1. NJG) from an AIMS decal sheet. There are seven more versions on the sheet so it was great value. The aircraft was painted in Colourcoats enamels (still the best model paint I've ever used, and shall continue to do so!) I used RLM 74/75/76 and RLM 02 with an overspray of Night Black. I thought this was a really cool looking scheme and makes the clean lines of the aircraft look even more menacing! I don't know much about these aircraft or modelling them, so there are probably a few howlers - I just enjoyed it for the easy-to-build kit and cool paintjob! All the best, Alan
    14 points
  9. Curtiss Hawk H-81A-2 (P-40B) | 1/72 | Airfix American Volunteer Group, 3rd Pursuit Squadron -- Charles Older, Pilot -- 1942 I finished this on November 17th, 2019. This is the P-40B flown by Charles Older in the Flying Tigers (American Volunteer Group). I was very excited about this build as I'd never done a Flying Tiger before. When I was a kid, it seemed like most of my friends had P-40 Flying Tiger models, and I somehow never got around to it. The P-40 is one of my favorite fighters, but until a few years ago, I really didn't know much about the early B and C models. Reading about them in one of my Dad's aviation history magazines, I discovered that the P-40B/C is my favorite model of the P-40. I think it's the sleek looking nose. So this has been a fun build for me. Charles Older was a member of the 3rd Pursuit Squadron ("Hells Angels"), having earned his wings in the US Marine Corps and subsequently resigning his commission to join the Flying Tigers. He was the 3rd highest scoring ace in the Flying Tigers. After the AVG was disbanded, he flew P-51s as deputy commander of the 23rd fighter group. He left the Air Force a Lt. Colonel with 18 confirmed victories and 5 probables. He went on to become a lawyer and Judge in the state of California. His most famous trial as judge was that of mass-murderer Charles Manson. This kit was a terrific kit to put together. I had no fit problems to speak of, except that the piece with the guns and intake on top was slightly smaller than it should've been, requiring a little sanding and re-scribing. The decals are inaccurate: The roundels are a little too light and the starboard Hell's Angel is facing the wrong way and has the wrong leg positioning. WIP is here. Special thanks to @ArmouredSprue for the Academy decals which have the correct starboard Hell's Angel and to @Corsairfoxfouruncle for weathering advice and some info about P-40 gas cap colors! Finishing: Seams filled with CA (superglue) Paints: Mr. Surfacer 1500 black primer > Mr.Color 311 (FS36622) gray underside, and Mr. Color 310 (FS30219) Brown / 2 parts FS34092 and 1 part FS34079 (Model Master Enamel) topside Decals: Kit decals except for Hell's Angel on starboard side, wheel hubs and underside roundels from the Academy kit. Weathering/Wear: Tamiya weathering pastels (black) > white oil paint dot filtering and tan pastels for dust effects > oil staining and dirt streaks with Black and Burnt Umber watercolor Paints > Chips with Testors Chrome enamel applied with a spotter brush Thanks for looking! Questions, Comments and constructive criticism welcome!
    14 points
  10. Good evening, ladies and gentlemen. I present you my next model. It's typical "shortrun" without any navigation and headlights.
    12 points
  11. I needed some support equipment for my display case and was glad to see Airfix do this set, I wish they would also do it in 1/48. The tank trailer, the Autocar tractor pulling it, the bomb truck and trailer, and the Cushman scooter are in the set. The dump truck is a very early Hasegawa kit as is the jeep, had to scratch the clear parts because they were never a part of the kits. The other GMC 353 is by Academy and is a nice kit, although I had to reshape the windshield on it. I am familiar with the GMC trucks as my family used them in a water well drilling business after the war when I was a flea. I worked on the 270 engine many times although most were in later post war trucks. The frame and drivetrain on the Academy kit is very complete and accurate. In comparison the Hasegawa kit is very simplified but still more fiddley to put together, and I am offended that they got the rear suspension springs upside down. How's that gonna work? However, this dump truck built a lot of airfields in WWII so we all need one or three, right? The C-53 is the newest Airfix kit, built previously. I have more photos at my website, here: http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/cars/usaafbrs/usaafbrs.html
    12 points
  12. Hi all, So I'm here now with my second armour build after my Kubelwagen which kick-started my slide over to the AFV section as I'm normally found in the aircraft forum. This time I went for another fairly simple kit by Tamiya - only this time decided to go for a tank - the Panzer II. I really enjoyed this kit and had absolutely no fit problems - I'll definitely continue to do more armour builds and have already added a few to the stash including a Tamiya Panzer IV and the new Airfix re-boxes of a 35t and a Stuart. So here's the pics and as always your feedback is appreciated especially as I'm new to AFV builds: Thanks for looking Kris
    11 points
  13. This is another stash clearer, I have a GWH F-15c and knew if I built it I would have a hard time going back to the Hasegawa F-15A in the pile. I wanted to do the early blue scheme with the reddish canopy frame and unique insignia, it reminded me of seeing the first 1/72 scale Monogram kits in the department stores as a child. I had a couple bottles of Air Superiority Blue saved for it, replaced kit items with an older ESCAPAC seat and different wheels then added the air brake stiffener. Mixed my own metallic green for the cockpit rear. Decals were mostly Superscale stencils and some Caracal for unit and insignia. The blue scheme is sort of unique in that it is glossy underneath and matt on top. I used Hataka Air Superiority Blue overall and on the matt areas I added thin coats of Lifecolor Air Superiority Blue (which has slightly purple hue to Hataka’s slightly greenish hue of blue) on the top and sides. I found referencing the old blue more difficult than expected, luckily I had an old Aeroseries 28 book. It had everything needed for early eagles. I finished it in a sort of Langley QRF load out.
    11 points
  14. Lockheed-Martin F-35A Lightning II 421st Fighter Squadron ‘Black Widows’, 388th Fighter Wing Hill AFB, Utah, present day ORIGINALLY POSTED THIS SOME MONTHS AGO BUT JUST MADE USE OF THE SPRING SUNSHINE AND GOT SOME BETTER PHOTOS (Doesn't make it a better looking aircraft though, and you still can't see the Have Glass glitter, but it's there - honest) Brown tone = new photo. Blue tone = old photo. Don't ask me why! Like many other people, I regarded the F-35 as being too ugly to model. But things change! I was tempted to buy a 1/72 Academy kit at a reasonable price (£20 I think it was) at Yeovilton Air Day this year, and it just went in the stash. Meanwhile out of interest I did a bit of research on what shade of grey to use, etc, and at the same time a friend of mine sent some photos of a 421st FS aircraft at an airshow in Greece. One of the major things that removed my barrier to building one of these was the fact that production aircraft no longer have those RAM panels painted in a lighter grey, so none of that awkward masking, though there are still some subtle shades of grey on various panels. I also then discovered Mr Paints acrylic lacquer airbrush paints, and found that they do FS 36170 ‘Camouflage Grey’ and ‘Have Glass’ special matt varnish to give that metallic sparkle, so the fire was lit and off I went to build one of these: A pleasurable wander through Wolfpack Decals resulted in me buying sheet 72-125 which includes a 421st F-35A (it also includes a VFA-147 F-35C which got me looking forward to a 1/72 F-35C kit which surely can’t be too far away). Building this model made me realise how different the F-35 is from any other modern jet (except perhaps the F-22) with those weapon bays, facetted construction, sensors everywhere, lack of HUD, strange paint, etc and it was a great pleasure in the end to build it.
    11 points
  15. Thanks Heather. It's a conundrum isn't it? Many people (no doubt including yourself) lead such busy lives these days that sitting down and learning 3D software on top of all their other responsibilities is just too large a budget of time to be able put aside. As you say, there are plenty of hungry young freelance designers out there willing to turn the job for a shilling or two. Of that, there can be no doubt my friend! 😜 Thus quoth the Raven Bill... 😁 Saliva all over my thread now.... 🤣 Ha! Nice try Benedikt. 😁 I'm afraid nothing will tempt me from the righteous path of trying to replicate a couple of Rolls Royce Avons over the next few weeks... Where there is distress, lies opportunity. 😄 Interesting info on Shapeways (why do I have the urge to write 'Milliways?' ) and agreed on the last point regarding minima. Anything needing to be less than 0.3mm in thickness I'm likely to use brass for on the grounds of strength and sharpness of edge anyways but it was interesting to find a datum for the printer's capabilities. Sound relationship advice there Claire Rayner.... Big wave of the perfumed hankie in your direction you big sweetie. So he bloody well should be Vince. He gets three square meals a day and all the rats he can catch by the duck run.... 😆 Most kind as always Johnny: changing the bench lighting to Scandinavian Noir back in the summer not only gives better photography options but imputes a completely false air of rugged handsomeness to my ugly mug.... Or indeed 'strong & stable'... Wholly unwarranted level of self-flagellation in that statement Steve. 😁 Dammit man, you flew Jags - I've only ever driven lorries for a living. 'f I can push a few points around in Cartesian space you'll be able to knock up an Eiffel Tower or two over breakfast. @hendie should be able to point you in the direction of a decent free CAD package to cut yer tusks on. (Thanks for the kind words btw)... This is the stuff they want to hear Crisp! I guess contentment comes in many forms... I had an idea that may help with software - PM sent. *Sir Humphrey voice* 'If I can have played some miniscule part in persuading a valued colleague to undertake such a potentially valuable course of action, well, it would in all certainty prove itself to be a source of not inconsiderable satisfaction.' Is it panto season already? 😁 I was that kid in the Chemistry class at school who always wanted to see what heppened if you heated things up beyond the point the teacher said was safe Keith. 😬🎆 🧯 Ultra-kind John. We're in the last few innings of this build now and I'm anxious to keep momentum whilst avoiding breaking anything off if I can -footering and fettling this evening trying to get props and stbd engine sorted. It didn't, it must be said, get off to the most propitiuous of starts as I pretty quickly realized that I'd neglected to pay attention to mounting the props to the Cheetahs in a sufficiently robust manner. Tres idiotique. Out no point just trying to glue something one so risked the soldering iron to add some stubs on the rear of the props: Well, it worked as you can see, but at the expense of blistering the bloody paint. My fault for not thinking this through so stripped all the paint off and resprayed. After that diversion it was on to the main business of the evening. Hand on heart I was incredibly childishly nervous that I'd have fracked up along the way somewhere and that the engines wouldn't be in line with each other either from the front aspect or when viewed from above. After a little persuasion in the engine bearers and an anxious wait holding things in place while he GG cured, the stbd engine was not only in line but didn't show any signs that it would promptly drop off: Seen from above there is a *slight* discrepancy in the 'nose' of the stbd engine being about 0.5mm forward of where it should line up with the port counterpart. I was initially annoyed with myself for not having caught that but then realized that as the port one if a plunge moulded resin copy of the stbd Engines & Things one, the actual nose of it is slightly shorter due to my less than competent moulding (you can poss. make out that difference in the shot above for yourself - the port one's snout is slightly squatter and with a correspondingly larger hole where the propshaft fits in). I reckon a slight collar of Milliput should be able to extend that port snout forward by the required amount without being intrusive. Some paint damage to the metal foil areas due to handling and gluing the engine but am getting used to running repairs at this stage: Almost there now: Parts remaining to go on now are very few: 1. Pitot head under nose. 2.Lever/mass balance on top of each aileron. 3. x2 aerials on cabin roof. 4. Rudder 5. Cabin door. Yes, the cabin door has been giving me pause for thought. Initial plans to have it fully open would seem to be contradicted both by the angle of the fuselage (pitched up) and resulting effect of gravity. I reckon the best compromise is to have it slightly ajar (so you can see that it's articulated as a separate part) but not unnaturally so. At this point there could even be an RFI by next week. Did I really just say that after 18 months? Tony
    11 points
  16. Here we are finally with this small 1/72 Hurricane kit. A had lot of fun with it. Thanks Airfix 😁 Work in progress is here Hurricane wip Thanks for looking Cedric
    10 points
  17. Built oob with the addition of the Eduard ejector seat,no weathering as the JASDF kept them pretty clean back then, well thats my excuse anyway. Hasegawa'a later 1/48 kits are a joy to build you just need to be careful with the intakes. I glued them to the fuselage sides first before joining the sides together opposite to what they show on the instructions Bit of a swine to photo this one, couldn't get the light right somehow
    10 points
  18. Hiya Folks, Well the main paintwork is finished,...... I opted for black for the anti glare panel,..... I couldn`t decide between black or dark Olive Drab! The rudder markings have also been painted on, retaining silver for the cross; Cheers Tony
    10 points
  19. Hello happy folks, Among all my 'serious' builts, I decided to have a bit of fun and do a quick built of a what-if plane. The story is quite staight forward. In the early years of the 21st century, the Canadian Armed Forces were looking for a replacement to their ageing CF-188 Hornet. Due to budget restriction and higher reliability of modern engines, it was decided to select a single engine aircraft. So the Dassault Rafale, Boeing F-18E and Eurofighter Typhon were out of the game. That left Saab with its Super Gripen, Lockheed Martin with its X-35 and Boeing with the X-32. Considering previous experience with Boeing field support, the airframer guarantee that it fighter would enter service before the competition and a good discount (from non-official sources), the CAF opted for the newly named Boeing CF-189. Thanks to the fact that Canada was the sole launch customer, the development process was quite quick and the first squadron was declared operational in 2017. Fifteen years later, the CF-189, nick-named the "blue whale" thanks to its big-open-month-like-inlet is still the main fighter for the CAF and has demonstrated high reliability and operational flexibility. It is not rare to see them in various airshows all around the word under special livery schemes like the one designed for the 2032 International Air Tatoo. The basis is Italeri Boeing X-32 in 1/72. Decals are from Belcher Bits. Colours are 'inspired' by Canadian CF-5 grape scheme. The built is basically OOB with only the ejection seat harness added and some brake pipes. Lot of masking tape was used.... Hope you like the result despite the poor quality of the pictures (it is difficult to get good natural light this period of the year) Cheers, Antoine
    9 points
  20. Last of a trio of 1/48 scale modern jet fighter/bombers (Mig 29A, F-18E and EF2000) that I have done recently, this is the Revell 2 seat Typhoon built OOB except for the usual PJ Production pilot figures. painted using Hataka acrylic modern RAF paint set 1 and stock box decals. The kit itself goes together reasonably well except for some gaps around the intake assembly and for the canopy that I just couldn't get to fit properly right at the end of the build Thinking I may just remove it and try again with it later. The instruction sheet was vague at best so hopefully everything is in the correct place!
    9 points
  21. I am re-purposing a resin prop from a Khee-Kha engine/prop set, to replace the bad prop in the kit, but I will have to reverse its pitch: The blades are carefully separated, and all parts drilled to accept a metal pin: And here is the new prop: The wing floats have been assembled, and the flange carefully trimmed closely to represent the real thing: I made new landing gears legs too:
    9 points
  22. ** WARNING ** DO NOT INSPECT TOO CLOSELY!! 😁 Finished after a huge struggle, lots of filler and a mask set that didn't really work very well.. It's the only game in town which is why I got it in the first place. 70 grams of weight in the nose to stop it being a tail sitter. Only recommended for the experienced modeller. Cheers Warren
    8 points
  23. Cripes! That's a fair flaming I got there from old @hendie! 😨 I didn't think that last post was quite that heinous. I can assure you all that if you ever saw me actually do a jig - or indeed any other kind of dance - you would immediately regret the experience. Compared to my moves, this little penguin is a regular Fred Astaire! Still - all that talk of Avros and syzygys and calendars tickled my subconscious until I realized I owned a copy of this sensational painting by Michael Turner. This shows an inter-war Avro 504N flying over Stonehenge. Even today the true purpose of Stonehenge remains a mystery, however many modern scholars hold that its original intent was to allow ancient druids to count the seasons between Britmodeller updates of Hendie's 1/32 Pullman rolling stock project. Hendie started that project in the early bronze age and persists with it - unfinished - to this day... Bandsaw Steve
    8 points
  24. Hello again, after my last F-2 in 2013 I wanted to build one again, this time the version F-4 from eduard in the colors of III/JG3, piloted by Leutnant Heinrich Graf von Einsiedel. The Kit was fantastic to built, I used no aftermarkt products and also took the Kit parts to create that nice model. I love eastern front colors! MY next post here will show that again 😊
    8 points
  25. Hi everybody; quoting myself and here are some pics about it. Masking first I then airbrushed Tamiya Gloss Black, followed by Model Master Metallizer Titanium. After unmasking The left one is good, the right one ... ah yes, I forgot I had to go over it with another layer of Model Master Metallizer Exhaust before masking, because some bare plastic showed through; as a consequence, that probably became too dark - hence no contrast with titanium. So I tried a few things to remedy, and in the end I was successful (sort of...) by brushing on the petals AK Interactive Extreme Metal Steel This paint is not supposed to be brush painted, so to get a decent effect I had to go with a very loaded brush and let the paint self level. For the inner side, since it normally looks filthy and messy in pictures, I didn't bother to mask and just brush painted the back of the outer petals with Lifecolor Flat Natural metal The job was then completed by airbrushing some thinned Tamiya smoke on the inside A bit more of touch up required, but all in all they should look the part. Some other painting job occurred, to wit painting the ordnance: Missiles were airbrushed with a mix of Tamiya Flat White and Sky Grey. Then some detail painting followed That's all as regards painting, but some constructions also went on: I thought it was about time to start dealing with the vacformed canopy, so I set out to cut the excess plastic I marked the edges with Tamiya tape for curves, and cut using nail scissors The canopy is obviously very clear, but I anyway brushed on some Alclad Aqua Gloss as a protective coat, in sight of the details I need to add in terms of framing, rear view mirrors and opening handles. And of course the resin piece that constitutes the back part of the canopy itself. Speaking of which, Pavla would have you to use this resin bracket to hold the canopy in the open position looks way too fragile to me, so I replaced the resin shaft with a suitable brass one (0.6mm diameter) So the only resin left here is the hinge. Which needed a location point on the canopy base, that I added from styrene sheet (0.5mm thick) I'll have to cut a slot in it for the opening arm to fit in, but I'll do that once I have unmasked the cockpit and tested the fit. I guess this is all for the night, next time I should probably get started with decals .... Meanwhile, all comments welcome Ciao
    8 points
  26. Now this is something I have just not gotten around to posting up in RFI, I built this a few months ago and the other day I broke the IFR probe, repairing it prompted me to post this finally. So, here is my Airfix Handley Page Victor B.2R (Blue Steel carrier). Weathered moderately, the V Force may have once been the pride of the RAF but I very much doubt they were paintshop shiny new every day. This model was difficult to photograph well due to the size, I hope I have done it well enough. I will replace that nose probe when I build my next Victor (beginning of 2020 hopefully!) as a very early example of the B2, before IFR probes were added. Information people have on Victors of this era would be much appreciated. Victor B2 as a Victor B1 takes off in the background. Someone with better Photoshop skills than me should attempt to Photoshop this into an airfield.... XL512 from one of the angles from which the Victor looks best in my opinion. From this angle, the aircraft has such a very powerful look. Truely one of the most beautiful aircraft ever built. Hopefully the next build will be of better quality, I have learnt a lot since I built this one.
    7 points
  27. I'll be straight up and say while I really like the final product getting there wasn't easy. I was so excited to get this model and this scheme was a must, but as is so often with Trumpeter models it was a bit of a letdown!! Plus it needs and requires lots of extras to take it from being quite "toy" like. The scheme I love and those that know me know I couldn't resist it.......even if it took 6 hours to mask up using masks. Would I do it again, I probably would, but I would need to have the resin cockpit and cargo bay bits first. Please enjoy Model: Trumpeter 1/32nd Mil Mi-24V Hind E Paint: Tamiya & Mr Hobby Acrylics, Model Master Metalizer Lacquers, Mr. Paint Clear lacquers Extras: Eduard - BigEd set DN Models – Tiger camouflage Mask set Master Model – Gun Barrel & DUAS set Profimodeller – Wheels & Tow Bar set Profimodeller – Side Flare Dispenser set PART – Cockpit PE set PART – Cargo Interior set PART – Exterior set Reskit – BD3-57KRV Pylons Reskit – B8V20-A Rocket Launcher Plus she took out 1st place in her class at the end of year comp.
    7 points
  28. I share this new Spook: Zukei Mura kit F-4C - Zukei Mura cockpit interior - Hypersonic correction set - TwoBobs decals - Aires Exhaust pipes - Eduard Accessories AMG Shrike Missile - GT ALQ - GT Wild weasel conversion - Brassin ejection seat Cons: The fall of the profile of the back of the fuselage, I tell you that it is very difficult to put the Hypersonic correction. It can be solved only by sanding the original plastic to give the correct profile or better yet, accept as is to a big bottom Phantom. The homogeneity in the depth of the panels varies in certain places. Nothing to worry about. The Slatas, by the complicated molding, are a little crooked (barely noticeable) and you have to stick by segments. Pros: Everything in its place. Assembly from 1 to 10 is 9.2 The best in detail. To make the EF-4C you have to make several modifications: -ALR-53 Homing Antennas -Camera on the right gondola for AIM-7 -ALQ-87 -ALR-53 Directing Finding Antenna -AGM-45 Shrike Anti-radiation Missiles I hope you like it.
    7 points
  29. So I compared the prop to my 1)32 ones and it's considerably smaller, closer to 1/48. I usually don't build 1/48 aircraft Soni didn't have anything usable. I stopped by the LHS and picked up a 1/48 Tamiya Hamp so hopefully that'll work. In the meantime, I attached the legs to the hip section. I then added the pistons. The kit includes vinyl tubing for hydraulic lines but I had some thin spring tubing that I used instead. Next up I assembled the arms. Again, I replaced the vinyl tubing with spring tubing instead. Finally I attached the fuselage/upper body, arms and lower body together. All that's left is to paint and install the canopy. And the prop. Carl
    7 points
  30. This maybe sacrilege to the Bf109 fans of the world. Starting with the Tamiya Bf109G-6, adding the SBS Models resin HA-1109/1112 conversion to the box and shaking well will hopefully result in this unique hybrid. The resin is well modeled and because of the way Tamiya engineered the G-6 there is minimum surgery. Unfortunately, the Hispano cannons, wing fences and rocket mounts aren't included with conversion. If you happen to have a spare Hobby Craft/Academy Buchon, the missing bits can be sourced from it. Decals are provided for two Spanish aircraft, 92-27 (an unarmed HA-1109 K-1L), 94-28 (fully armed HA-112 K-1L) and and two movie star aircraft in the markings of Hans-Joachim Marseille used in the film "Der Stern von Afrika". Cheers, Rich
    6 points
  31. Hello all, I have been rather busy working of late but I have found time between working with real aircraft to finish my F-4D. Im sure many are aware that the Tamiya kit is a dream to build and goes together very well, I used Mr Colour paint which I believe are the best on the market at the moment, the colours I used were 303 (FS34102), 310 ((FS 30219) and 320 (Dark Green)……….and black for the bottom 🙂 Sadly the decals were in a poor state and fragmented as soon as they hit the water, so I purchased the Warbirds Decals set (32009) which were superb and set well on the aircraft and into any details very well and recommended. I didn't like the fit of the intakes to the ducting, so I thought it a far better idea to use the Quickboost (QB 32089) set of intake covers. The seats are aftermarket, but I cant tell you who made them as they came free with the kit (from a certain auction site) All the weapon pylons are removable, this is done using small earth magnets in the wings and pylon locations. I hope you like it, it is certainly my best build so far. All comments are welcome, thanks for looking
    6 points
  32. Latest build. Some scratch parts added. Mark DSCN3575 (2) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3573 (2) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3571 (2) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3570 (2) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3568 (3) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3564 (2) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3563 (2) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3562 (2) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3561 (2) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3560 (2) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3558 (2) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3557 (2) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3556 (2) by mwsfly9, on Flickr
    6 points
  33. Revells 1/72 Handley Page Halifax built as S-Sugar of 35. sqn. Shot down during an attack on Tirpitz over Norway. The aircraft force landed on Lake Hoklingen,and the crew survivied. All but one escaped to Sweden. The plane is now resting in Hendon museum. Read more here: http://www.archieraf.co.uk/archie/1048tls.html . Freightdog correction set for wheels, radiators and propellers used. The model was painted with Tamiya and Gunze colors. Best regards Rune Haugen
    6 points
  34. Here is another model from my Falklands War collection - 1/72 Douglas A-4P Skyhawk C-212 of V Brigada Aerea Fuerza Aerea Argentina, Rio Gallegos AB, May 1982. Airfix` kit, which needs a lot of work to look like A-4B. Built at the same time as my A-4Q - report here: https://www.pwm.org.pl/viewtopic.php?f=851&t=87504 I think that it`s the last Skyhawk I`ve ever built. Now I have 3 in my collection: A-4C, A-4Q and A-4P: The other 2 models were also presented in this forum: A-4C Skyhawk 1/72 Fujimi A-4Q Skyhawk 1/72 Airfix Thank you for your attention!
    6 points
  35. #27/2019 After a long pause my father finally build a new WW1 model. This is Eduard´s latest boxing of the Schuckert D.III, used EZ Line for the rigging and for the first time some Gaspatch PE turnbuckles. All the large lozenge decals were a PITA to apply, didn´t turn out perfect. My father is no pro WW1 builder but the model looks ok. Build thread here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235058174-knights-in-the-sky148-siemens-schuckert-werke-diii-deutsche-luftstreitkräfte/ The model shows the aircraft of Vizefeldwebel Reimann, Kest 4b in September 1918. DSC_0001 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0016 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0017 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0018 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0019 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0020 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
    6 points
  36. I've just proposed French Fancy 2 (as you know, you've signed up for it), if it goes through there will be a six year gap between the first and second iterations, I think that's a reasonable gap between the two.
    6 points
  37. Well after a prolonged period of absence, I'm back on the Wokka..... I've had it ripped out of me for donkies now and I cant take it anymore..... I have to start it again........... Anyway. It's under starters orders having sat on the mrs' piano and occasionally on her chest of draws when she p!sses and moans about it, its back on the bench (table). I've completely lost the plot with where I'd got to with it. I did have a build plan by that's well gone. I've just been digging out the bits that remain on it to survey where I was up to and this is all that remains to be done I'm on a mac these days so no idea if that piccie will post or if its a linky to my photobucket account. We will see in a minute. Basically I've lost a wheel so have had to order some of those resicast ones, which are well better than the Cobra resin ones which were state of the art when I started this build in 1647 AD. I've lost the paint masks, so they are hopefully on there way, and I've ordered some Archer rivets (one sheet only at 17 squid a pop) while I assess how much I need to save up to buy enough rivets to finish it. There is a foot of dust on it, but other than that it is in good shape. I picked up a new set of cast iron wheel thingie me bobs as I managed to break one and it didnt go back together brilliantly, and whilst humming and ha'ing about what to do about the rotors (my mrs lad smashed a set whilst playing football with a big oaf of a stupid mate in the living room), I bought...................................... yup. Another Wokka! As for the smashed rotors - the football ended up on her piano and then smashed a set. If it had hit the wokka they'd both be dead now. Cant swear on these forums so you can imagine how well chuffed I was. The nice little boys even tried to hide the evidence so I didnt spot it, but I was on it like a shot. Over a year later, I am still not amused. So I bought another Wokka to nick the rotors, but then decided I was going to cast a set out of resin and yesterday someone stuck a spruce on WaltBay with? Yup - a set of unbuilt rotors on it, so I've bought them. I've got enough Rotors now to equip several Wokka's and I'm still fairly convinced I'm going to have a crack at casting them. I have lots of unused Hataka paint. I will find out if it stores well or it is as shockingly badly manufactured as the first lot which I slated on here to such an extent they sent me a load of free paint, which was very nice of them. But lets see how we get on with it. I'm not one for sucking up to manufacturers. The only other bit of news is I bought a flagpole and Union flag as I'm sick of going to the States and seeing how patriotic they are. I suppose as this is the UK, that officially makes me a white supremacist......................... Right. That's me done. I'm back. Just need the bits to turn up to crack on
    6 points
  38. I perfected my technique for cold callers today. "We were told you were in an accident that wasn't your fault?" "Oh yes, it was my fault, I was drunk and speeding" "Click......Bzzzzzzzz"
    6 points
  39. You should see the size of the bottle this is going to end up in...
    6 points
  40. Next up the bridge superstructure. I've been looking at how to to make Brave Borderer's superstructure by modifying the Perkasa model's bridge . There are a number of differences between the BB & Perkasa superstructures, e.g. shape, height, length, width & bridge layout. Here's a photo I posted earlier with a BB drawing overlayed on the Perkasa model, showing some of those differences. I thought the best way to find what Perkasa parts I could use for the BB build was to cut the Perkasa superstructure apart & compare the resulting bits & pieces to the BB drawings & photos. In addition to reusing some of the bridge components, I think I can reuse some of the superstructure bulkhead parts, as shown in the next photo. Now the work begins! Wish me luck. Thanks again for checking in. John
    6 points
  41. shouldn't he be whittling those from some whalebone or something?
    6 points
  42. I do like these Revell Kits (Other than the Wing sections). These are the Kit markings but I used Barracuda resin for the small wheel bumps and the spinner & props. Gunze Paints and GX100 Clear for Decals. Mr Hobby Matt for Final Seal. USchi Line for Antennas and Kit decals for Markings...These were really Good.(Spares box for Tail marking) HGW Cloth Seatbelts are really nice..My photos don't show well Thanks for Looking Comments Always welcome Cheers Bill
    6 points
  43. close Crisp. Cantonese "joi gin" - if google is to be believed. Means "see you again" or summat. But I'll take bloody lovely! Looking a bit more convincing hopefully, and primer still peeling off. Got any other words I can use Ced ? Now with added black folks. and bare nekkid grey polystyrene Busted! More contrivance in today's episode - at least I'm consistent. I'm trying to get to the point where I can put some transfers on this beast, but jobs keep cropping up to prevent the stickerfest. Obviously, before I can slide the transfers on, I need a coat of clear gloss. Before I can get to the clear gloss, I need to have the paint job finished, or so I'm told. Now, while I have most of the transfers, there are a few critical one's I do not have, namely the stonkin' big "A" on the sides. A ratch through the decal stash proved fruitless, so there was nothing for it but to do it the old fashioned way. Now my old fashioned way was to print out the A full size then use that as a template to cut a mask from. However, I contrived to have my printer decide to steadfastly refuse to print anything of any color of any shape of anything at all whatsoever. That meant I had to approach this the old, old fashioned way. Cunning, stealth, paper and pencil, and a sharp implement. First time around was to try and do it like the 1:1 - i.e. the bottom edge of the A follows the panel lines along the fuselage. - Which then throws the top of the A off center of the white panel. Thanks Fly - next time, try looking at your subject! Some minor adjustments were adjusted to position the A more centrally, vertically, and eye-pleasingly, then masking tape was carefully applied around the outer edges of the paper before finally peeling the "stencil" away leaving this... Repeat on the other side - double checking I had the correct panels - you never know! Then mask up, taking no chances!!! Grimy flat black slapped on. Then when it's all dry enjoy the feeling that accompanies peeling off the masking. Starboard side. Port side. A little bit of bleed but nothing drastic. I'm going to leave that to harden up then very lightly polish it with some micro-mesh and hope that will clean up the edges somewhat. The last bit of color was on the bottom side. (Is the bottom a side ?), but before that could happen I had to clean up the nasty alclad black sandpaper finish. Although it looks really nasty it cleans up without too much effort. Grimy flat black revisited. I've done the best I can following the standard scheme and taking into account Fly's errors in panel lines and curves. Not perfect, but close enough to prevent head explosions Works for me. I long ago gave up the thought that this was going to be my masterpiece. Just getting it to the finish line is proving to be a Herculean task at times. This really has been a fight all the way. And the alclad isn't helping either. More small sections peeling off, but touching up should be too much of a problem. More annoying than anything. That "A" looks dreadful in that photo. It didn't look anywhere near as bad as that earlier. I'll cover myself by saying that's probably the edges of paint that came off the masking tape as it was unmasked. Micromesh and cleanup and it'll be fine guv'nor More concerning is the issue of parts of the tail brackets breaking off during all this handling. Fixing the tail pylon is going to be challenging. I also contrived to notice that I still have to fit the SACRU brackets, after I actually make the SACRU brackets. However, main focus now is to get all the paintwork tidied up enough to throw a bucket of gloss over it in the hope that will help prevent future episodes of paint peel. Followed by transfers. Book your seats now.
    6 points
  44. Thanks @Thom216 and @woody37, really good advice as usual! Still not getting much time at the bench but I've gradually been adding coats of gloss varnish when I have the chance. For this I've been using Pledge Klear which seems to do the job and is a fraction the price of "proper" model varnishes. Today I got on to the decals... I'd done little bit of experimenting on the faithful p-51 mule so I wasn't that surprised when it turned into a battle! Despite being left out in the sun on a window sill for the last two months the carrier film on the 40 year old decals is still yellowed, they're also pretty thick and inflexible. Having painted the black lines (a good idea in the end!) I cut out the "walk here, walk aft, etc" text with as little carrier film on them as possible but haven't been able to stop them from silvering quite badly - hopefully they will look better with a couple more coats of varnish, some weathering and a flat finish. As you can see in the photo below I've continued to cut as much of the surrounding film off the bigger transfers as possible. So far they are going on ok....ish. They haven't disintegrated but they don't really "sit down" and behave oddly when microsol-ed. I think I'm getting there but again hoping that they will settle in once varnished applied on top. Still, despite all the moaning I'm still enjoying myself and she's finally starting to look like a Lancaster. I think the finish line might nearly be in sight (before Christmas?!?). Thanks for looking, happy modelling! Sam
    6 points
  45. as an FYI - Shapeways won't accept a print with any wall thickness less than 0.3 mm - and that's using the latest and greatest technology, in theri super dooper material sets. Cheaper materials are even larger wall thicknesses I think getting anything to print at 0.19mm is a great achievement... maybe add in a safety factor and call the minimum 0.25 mm ? As fine as this printer can go, I think you still have to account for scale effect - can the eye really tell the difference between something at .3mm and another piece at 0.15mm ? As long as things looked "correctly" sized relative to each other I think it's fine. Great first effort there Tony. Just glad you like it after I touted its capabilities!
    6 points
  46. One coat of Mr. Color GX UV Cut Super Clear Gloss thinned 50/50 with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner, and I think we can do some stickers. Although, I'm still kerfuddled about the air brake wells up top. Everything I've read says they should be silver, but the tops of all those "brick-like" structures have to be in the camo scheme because they are visible when the air brake is closed. So I guess a lot of little pieces of Tamiya tape...anyone know for sure? Before I spend a lot of time doing something I shouldn't do? Cheers, Bill
    5 points
  47. very nice project Rich, will follow with interest, cheers!
    5 points
  48. Yes, those are cursed words! You can be too fussy with these things. There was a little imperfection on the port fuselage roundel which I painted over but it ended up a bit of a mess. So, I thought I'd remove the paint with some lacquer thinners which completely melted the decal and then started melting the plastic: This is it sanded and polished. Then sprayed aluminium again: There is still a bit of a chip, and the lower panel-line is a bit wider but with the roundel replaced (I got another set of decals because the registration on some of the decals on the first was out a little,) it doesn't look too bad: 'might get the blighter finished now, Alan
    5 points
  49. Hi all, finished up my YF-21 from Macross Plus. Kit is 1/72 from Hasegawa. Thanks for looking, and always fielding critiques and tips for improvement! WIP here:
    5 points
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