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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 33 points
    After some trial and error I've managed to sort a few photos of my finished Airfix toom... my first proper 'plane kit in 30 years or so. Quite enjoyed the experience and there's a work in progress thread that I used to track my "build"... but this will do for now. One mistake I made at the end was to paint the flightpath etch steps in yellow (because that's what the instructions said to do) but these should instead be a dark red.... which they now are, and awaiting some gloss varnish to seal and give some gleam. I'll grab a few photos once that's all sorted. Anyway... crit welcome... and yes, its a bit clean underneath; it's just had a wash Phantom 2 by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr Phantom 1 by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr Phantom in profile by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr Phantom 3 by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr Airfix 1:72 Phantom upper and lower by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr XT864 upper view by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr XT864 Starboard front quarter by Jonathan Hughes, on Flickr Thanks also for all the comments and support that I received during the build. It's what these forums are for.... thanks one and all Jonathan
  2. 33 points
    Hiya Peeps, For those that don't know, the SR-A1 was a prototype flying boat fighter plane and was the first jet-propelled water based-aircraft in the world. The concept was a reaction to Japan's successful use of military floatplanes and the emergence of the turbojet engine. In 1947, the first prototype (TG263) made its maiden flight, with a further two built. Being outclassed by land-based fighters and lack of orders, the project was cancelled with the last flight in June 1951. Of the three that were built, two were lost due to accidents, one of them being flown by Eric Brown. Here I present my latest from the 'Flying Boats and Floatplanes' group build, a Saunders-Roe SR-A1 using the Planet Models resin kit. Built mainly OOB, with the exception of a scratch built cockpit and the addition of a scratch intake grill. Build here: Stuart
  3. 27 points
    Hallo again This is my Albatros in 1/32: Happy modelling
  4. 24 points
    Hallo again With self designed strut support plates. A new idea. Happy modelling
  5. 23 points
    Hi all, I’ve been on a bit of a 1/48 ww2 fighter run where I’m trying to complete all my favourites. This one is Tamiya’s Mk.1 Hurricane where I chose to depict P2831 ‘LE.K’ flown by R.J. “Dickie” Cork of 242 Squadron based at RAF Duxford, August 1940. I chose this squadron since it was known as the ‘Canadian’ squadron. Everything is out of box except the Xtra decals. Thanks for looking.
  6. 20 points
    Hallo again This is my Roland D.VIb in 1/32: Happy modelling
  7. 17 points
    And again the model in NMF finish. This time I'll take a break from finishing the NMF. My last model in NMF in this year P-51D Trumpeter 1:24 Made straight from the box, the masks are hand made. There are a lot of mistakes I made too poor numbers on the tail but I hope that despite this model you will like it.
  8. 16 points
    Hallo again Here is my LVG C.VI in 1/32 Happy modelling
  9. 16 points
    Hallo again This is my Pfalz D.XII in 1/32 Happy modelling
  10. 15 points
    Hi All, Long time in the making but I finally completed this 1/72 Italeri EF-111. This was my first attempt at weathering so would love some feedback on how it looks. The model was built out of box using no extra parts since it was to be more of a training mule than serious attempt to make this kit flawless. Relatively basic weathering to start with. Model was painted then gloss varnished, After this a wash was applied using Revell weathering powders watered down the sealed in using a Matt clear coat. I also attempted some pre shading however realised I applied the dark grey on to thickly so it can’t be seen very clearly however it does show through a little on the light grey areas (hard to see on camera). Definitely techniques I’d like to use again so I’d love your feedback to improve. Thanks BR60066
  11. 14 points
    Hallo again: Here please is my DFW C.V in 1/32: Happy modelling
  12. 12 points
    Dear fellow Britmodellers, here's my 1/72 Zvezda ISU-152 assault gun, built from the box. Painted with Gunze acrylics, weathered with pastel chalks and artist's oils. The kit has nice details, but unfortunately, the tracks are too short to represent the characteristic 'sagging' on the upper rollers. In fact the tracks are so tight you'll hardly get them to fix if you painted the wheels/tracks seperately. On my first attempt I applied too much pressure and broke both the idler wheel and the tracks themselves. These had to be replaced with parts from another Zvezda kit (the ISU-122, which has the same chassis). All photos by Wolfgang Rabel. Thanks for your interest, with best greetings from Vienna Roman
  13. 11 points
    I was going to call this "Second Build in 15 years" but I'll let that one go. This is me carrying on with a history of F1 in 1/20th scale. I built the Tamiya 1965 Honda RA272 and even though this is only 6 years on, the differences from 1965 to 1971 are pretty amazing. This is the Ebbro Tyrrell 003 kit and is the first Ebbro kit I've built. Overall, I was very impressed. I think the level of detail and crispness of molding rival or surpass Tamiya. I'll admit that the reason I chose this one over the Sports nose model was the very finely crafted mirror mounts which I think look great on the finished model. I don't think this is the most attractive F1 car ever, but I do appreciate the function over form aesthetic of the nose in particular. I built this pretty much out of the box with the only additions being some Model Factory Hiro brown hose for the fuel lines and black wire for the spark plug leads, As well as a Tamiya seat belt kit to replace the inadequate decal that came with the kit. I would say however, that the Tamiya seat belt kit has nice photoetched hardware, but the adhesive vinyl belt materials leave something to be desired. My only complaints about the Ebbro kit would be that compared to Tamiya, it was a bit more fiddly to assemble. I think Tamiya does a good job of making the parts fit together in a very solid way. With this kit, the pieces fit, but there was a lot of glueing and clamping or holding in place because the pins were so small that they didn't align the parts very firmly. I recognize that this is probably the nature of trying to keep everything in scale and as separate pieces. These separate pieces include the headers which are molded as four separate pipes per side - again, a bit fiddly to assemble, but can't be beat for accurate appearance. That's usually my biggest gripe with Tamiya is that pieces are often molded together to make for easier assembly but this often results in a lot of masking if you're trying to airbrush separate colours onto the same part. My complaints must be pretty minor though as I've already bought the Ebbro Lotus 72C and the Lotus 72E. Must finish the MP4/7 first though. A few details on finishes, the blue is just straight Tamiya blue acrylic. I applied the decals and then clearcoated with Mr Color GX100 thinned with their levelling thinner. This is the best clear I've ever used. I tried the Tamiya X22 clear on the Honda and it was okay, but the GX100 was shiny right out of the airbrush, dry to the touch in 10 minutes and polished up very nicely. It did get under one of the decals, I'm guessing that my mist coats weren't heavy enough to actually protect the decals before I did the wet coat but I think this is going to be my clearcoat system moving forward. I've just clearcoated the MP4/7 and it came out better than this one and with no adverse effects on the decals after going a bit heavier with the mist coats. Anyway, thanks for looking, and I've added a few more shots below. Martin.
  14. 11 points
    Hi all, Currently there are two* airworthy Hawker Typhoon restoration projects underway, one in Canada and one in the UK. RB396 is being worked on by Airframe Assemblies and ARCo in England and is hoped to be flying by 2024. The aircraft is a combat veteran and will be the star of many an airshow but that's in the future, and we don't even yet know what colours she will wear. But, using Neil Hipkiss' painting Warbird RB396 as a reference, I've built my interpretation of what G-TIFY - the UK civil registration reserved for '396 - might look like on the Duxford flightline. Airfix 1/72 RB396 by Zac Yates, on Flickr Airfix 1/72 RB396 by Zac Yates, on Flickr Airfix 1/72 RB396 by Zac Yates, on Flickr Airfix 1/72 RB396 by Zac Yates, on Flickr Airfix 1/72 RB396 by Zac Yates, on Flickr This is the lovely recent Airfix kit - have I mentioned I love New Airfix? - with the XP-W codes cobbled together from the kit and part of the serial from my spares. I handpainted the Sheila noseart and would have posted the build two weeks ago, but I somehow lost one of the eight RP rails. Fortunately Airfix's spares department sent me a replacement (along with all seven of its brothers...) at no charge so she was finished today. *OF COURSE I want to build JP843, the Canadian project, I just don't have another kit lying around. But if someone happened to have a spare Airfix A02041A and were feeling generous...
  15. 11 points
    Here is a build of the Kinetic M-346 Master in the colours of the Republic of Singapore Air Force, albeit with a special scheme tail celebrating 20 years of training partnership with the French Air Force. In addition to the home-made decals for the tail, I also included the Yahu cockpit set. Aside from that, it's entirely from the box contents. Some of you will know that this is the first kit from the new "Gold Standard" in the Kinetic range and thus sets expectations for better quality. I think it meets mine and there really are no dramas putting the kit together, except the ones of your own making (e.g. trying to figure out the main undercarriage arrangements, just like the Rafale. You shouldn't need any filler and there's more than enough reference photos around for detailing beyond the kit. It's brush-painted with Hataka and Vallejo acrylics and finished with a Winsor & Newton matt varnish. Minimal weathering applied. My thanks to Tim for help with the tail decals. A delightful little kit of an interesting aircraft and I recommend you have a go at building one. As ever comments are welcome.
  16. 10 points
    Basically, the answer is ‘No’! I have no clear pictures of Ark’s posher boats at all, let alone being used. The only exception is that she always appears to have had a 32’ motor cutter swung outboard on her starboard davits when she was at sea - I assume the WW2 equivalent of a seaboat / crashboat in my time, always at immediate readiness to be launched for a man overboard, crash or whatever. For example, you can see it clearly here, during a transfer with HMS Kelvin [IWM photo]: I don’t know the circumstances of that photo, but everyone is clearly very relaxed - aerials raised, no apparent aircraft on deck, lots of “goofers” (matelots standing about watching nothing in particular, at which sailors of all eras are unsurpassed world champions). I suspect it is close in-shore and they’re about to go into harbour - that would also explain why the larger boats (the ones launched by crane rather than sliding out on davits, as lower down) are uncovered. [By the way, that photo also clearly shows that they continued to use the aircraft signalling booms right into the war: that thing sticking out sideways from the island was a hinged horizontal mast to carry flags used to signal to aircraft in the circuit; there was another on the port side of the hull at flight deck level. It all sounds a bit quaint to us modern peops, but Swordfish radios were Morse key jobs in the back - not exactly “346, slot, 1000lbs” stuff. In silent ops all the more so; transmitting on any radio was / is always a risk; after all, one of the things that sealed Bismarck’s fate was her sending a long radio report home, believing that we knew where she was anyway, when in fact it tipped the balance in finding her again. As so often, a photo is worth so much; it shows all sorts of stuff in the background] That photo is, believe it or not, the clearest I have of the Admiral’s Barge, which is the for’d of the two large boats under the crane - i.e. the one visible above the motor cutter and in line with the funnel. That appears to support your Hood example, Jan Evert- and it makes sense to me that the Admiral’s Barge would simply be a clean, spotlessly-painted, elite-manned version of a normal motor boat. The only evidence I have comes from Kagero. Yes, it’s very much secondary evidence, but the more I look at Witold’s work and compare it with primary things like photos and the constructor’s plans, the more I trust it; he seems to get most things right (unlike Profile Morskie, I am afraid). The Kagero page on boats is as follows: That shows the obvious relationship between fast motor boat and fast seaplane tender - but this Admirals’ Barge is different; deeper hull, more “sit up & beg” appearance, rather more pompous (which would be right), not as fast. [Incidentally, studying this page again also shows why my ill-formed unease about the whaler hull in my post last night had some substance: it’s not a whaler, it’s a cutter [for the non-seamen among you, whalers have a teardrop hull, pointed at both ends, and cutters have a flat transom (that’s a flat back end, @hendie). That means I need to find 2 whalers from somewhere, since Merit don’t provide any. I think I might have some at home from the splendid hand of Mad Pete (Atlantic Models)]. So, @foeth, that’s a long-winded way of saying “No, I don’t have any evidence of note!”. All contributions from anyone who knows more about 1930s-1940s RN ships’ boats (i.e. just about any ship modeller, then) gratefully received! The same goes for colour schemes. The only other thing worth adding is to repeat that most of these boats will be covered up - no self-respecting “Buffer” [Chief Boatswain’s Mate, the mega-experienced specialist in charge of all seamanship things - anchors, mooring, boats, rigging etc.; an absolute key pillar of any ship] would allow his shiny Admiral’s Barge to get all salt-stained and manky after several days in heavy Atlantic weather. That means I don’t have to be too anal about the details, provided the overall shape / dimensions look plausible. Thanks for taking an interest. More soon Crisp
  17. 9 points
    Hey guys,this is my new work,hope you enjoy it. END
  18. 8 points
    Might take the Iwata up meself next time and have a crack when nobody's looking. #itneedededsgyourhonour Ta G. Been organizing them into albums last night so will stick links up below if anyone needs anything... Would be lying if I said a Bucc will be necessary at some point in the the future Simon. I've a compressor blade from a Spey I'd hope to use as a mount. With the Bluetooth connection it does lend itself to being tucked away Heather and once folded down has a surprisingly compact footprint. Thanks Terry. Links below... I wouldn't be seen dead without inflatable trousers these days Ced. Pilots have all the best fetish gear it seems! What was it dear Quentin C said about dust? After the first few months you don't notice any more? With you and Giorgio being two of Italy's top paint maestros looking over my shoulder Massimo I feel obliged to keep on top of the game! It will not disappoint Rob. I'm sure I read somewhere that the RAF were a kid gloves outfit. Must have been on a Navy blog.... You have eyes like a bloody hawk Bill - how d'ye notice that? Ray had a great story of airlifting her over from Aldegrove to the museum by Chinook: Flat bottom to 330 gives good lift at speed. Pilot unaware of 330 now rising steadily upward to meet Chinook. Ground radios to pilot that reduction in speed may be necessary to avoid a superimposed Chinook/330 hybrid.... Love it Bill! Handsome camo work indeed. I'm a lazy swine when it comes to organizing stuff on Flickr but did lash the weekend photos into albums if anyone needs anything now or later: Wessex HC.2 Buccaneer S.2B Phantom FG.1 Puma HC.1 Canberra PR.9 Wildcat Mk.5 Managed to get Annie's flaps glued on this morning - hopefully a quick spray of black to tidy the seams this evening if not too tired...
  19. 8 points
    A thought... Is there a way to mount the bomb in a lathe? I seem to recall you have a small lathe in your toy tool collection. Mount the bomb, spin at slow revs, apply a fine brush loaded with suitable paint colour and Robert's your father's brother.
  20. 8 points
    Ok.. I can call it done. Not pretty satisfied though, once again I was far too eager for having it finished and speeded it up too much. But after all I find it looking nice in my WW1 collection.
  21. 8 points
  22. 7 points
    Hi all, After a bit of a delay, I finally managed some shots of the finished article this morning. The WIP thead, which only covers the building of the vignette itself (and not the figures!) can be found here should you be so curious . As ever, the close-up shots of the figures (particularly their faces) reveal just how bad I am at painting faces, among many other skills! Ah well, one day I will improve - I hope. Anyway, here are the photos, I hope you enjoy them: For the avoidance of doubt, I wasn't attempting to make any kind of political statement in doing this, save to paint my own perceptions of how differently we seem to view ex-service personnel depending on which conflicts they served in. I'd like to think that they are all, without exception, worthy of our thanks and appreciation for their sacrifice whatever form that took. Comments, of course, are welcome, with a small caveat which I hope everyone will understand (I think it's a house rule anyway): please, no politics! Thanks to everyone who looked in, or commented on the WIP - your input is appreciated.
  23. 7 points
    Hallo again Here is one Sopwith Dolphin in 48. Enjoy the photos. Happy modelling
  24. 7 points
    Thank you @SaminCam and @Vaastav, hope all is well. Well, things dry here quickly (Central Heating does the trick) Other side done. Now, I have to be patient and let her dry completely overnight, before the dreaded decals. All comments welcome. Simon.
  25. 7 points
    Hallo Some pictures are gone! So you get better ones: Happy modelling
  26. 7 points
    Seeing as how white males so frequently get a dud rap from some of the dodgier members of their fraternity, after reading the linked to page, I think,YES,WE DO. It never hurts to remember the vast majority of good & decent men of all races & creeds out there & the good & positive results they achieve & to reflect that we're not all devos & perverts. Just saying. Steve.
  27. 7 points
    More boat-ery this evening. Before I went much further, I decided that I needed to rationalise WTF was going on here; multiple boats in multiple locations, Merit’s outfit massively over-simplified, and various bits of brass available to help sort it... a recipe for a return visit from Commodore Cock-up. After a lot of poring over references (Kagero coming up trumps again) I have worked out that eventually I need to build: 4 x 36’ motor pinnace 2 x 35’ fast motor boat 1 x 35’ fast seaplane tender (which you've already seen) 1 x 35’ Admiral’s barge 3 x 27’ motor cutter 2 x 27’ whaler ... all of which can be done from the kit styrene & assorted brass, albeit with the slight size compromise mentioned above. [The Admiral’s barge will probably need the most adaptation from what’s on offer.] I’ll also need 2 x 16’ dinghy & possibly 2 x 14’ sailing dinghy too - which will need to be scratch built (though since they’re c.50% of the size of their 35’ brethren, a raid on some 1/700 boats might help). After that, I got down to some more teeny-tiny brass-wrangling. Seen from the top, the 35’ fast seaplane tender you saw last week; a 27’ whaler (hull too fat, but it will do - plus the Tetra innards are exquisite); and the inside of one of the 35’ fast motor boats ...and here essentially the same view from further back, showing my increasingly cluttered diagram of what additional stuff goes where plus the assorted hulls with pencil marks inside to work out which will be which. The RN has always been obsessed with a ship’s boats [“you can tell a ship by her boats” was still oft-quoted even in my era], and many a Commander has given career-limiting feedback to some hapless young Officer of the Day because of messing up the boat routine for some VIP. This was trebly so in a large ship, partly because they had more than their fair share of VIP visitors (with all the nonsense that entails) and also because they cannot get alongside in many ports they visit, so end up anchored off and getting everything done by boat. [Edit: for this very reason, I really do not envy the Officer of the Day in Queen Elizabeth or Prince of Wales on their future port visits; like US carriers, they are too big to get into most ports, so are going to spend a lot of time with a twitchy Commander breathing down their neck making sure that the VIPs’ boat has clean cushion covers, etc.] More later this week Crisp
  28. 6 points
    It has taken some time but I have finally taken some decent photos of my 1/350 1994 build of HMS Westminster. This is the Trumpeter 1/350 kit with White Ensign photo etch, a Trumpeter Lynx, 30mm cannons and main gun barrel from Veteran Models, some 1/700 battleship anchor chain, lots of 0.1mm wire, and decals from Hawk Graphics. This is a gift for my dad who was the XO in 1994 so getting the build as accurate as possible was really important to me: a big thank you to all the guys over in the WIP thread that helped me out with the details.
  29. 6 points
    Hello again, Here is the second model I have completed this year after another Eagle. Started this one thinking it would be a fast build to get into painting quick, and just finished it after 6 months of not a lot of free time. Very decent kit, the main issues being the simplistic exhausts and the overly thick closed canopy. Still an enjoyable build with not a lot to fix, and trying to spruce up that gunship gray was also a fun painting experience. 1/72 Academy #12550, Twobobs Da'Heath decals, KA Models exhausts, Reskit wheels, weapons from the kit, Skunkworks, GWH and Tamiya. Thanks for watching.
  30. 6 points
    It's finally done ... for the third or so time, after having to remodel due to moves or new ideas ... Before you judge to harshly: - it was meant to be a display for photographing models - so it needs to be somewhat variable and have nothing in the foreground that blocks the pics - it was also to place my larger kits that don't fit in the shelves - so it needs a lot of free space - it was supposed to allow me to build all kind of aspects of daily live on an airfield: maintenance , hangar, refueling, fire trucks, all kind of aircraft weaponry and so on - so a lot of different things have to find a place within the limited space which means a lot of activities are in close proximity that never would be like that in real life - it needs to display all my 1/48 non a/c kits - so it is kind of main & central during rush hour wrt vehicles etc. and it needs to fit in my hobby room - so ... To sum it up: one giant compromise - and I still have things built that I cannot get onto it (like an aircraft shooting range). I guess that means that there is another remodeling in the future. But for now I'll leave it be Thanks for looking!
  31. 6 points
    Here is one of my two Revell 1:72 Fokker Dr.Is which I built back in 2006. It represents one of Ltn Josef Jacob's black triplanes (he had three different machines if I recall correctly), serial unconfirmed, flown with Jasta 7 at Ste. Marguerite, France, circa September 1918. There was an accident towards the end of the build affecting the top wing and that's why some of the rigging is no longer taunt. The kit was fully painted with brush except for final varnish which was airbrushed. The decals came mostly from Roden's Dr.I kit and from a Pegasus sheet using references as a guide. The finish of the real machine was glossy but I went for a more satin-gloss finish as the glossy finish would have been too much in 1:72. As usual, thank you for looking and all comments are welcome Miguel
  32. 6 points
    The build is going great - thanks for asking! The next step is the front wheel well, the ceiling of which completes the cockpit floor. This is part of the wing spar which - along with the single-section fuselage and upper wings - ensures the correct dihedral. It was all painted and given a panel line wash, with some initial weathering, before assembling. I think there'll be plenty of gunge splattered up in there later. The upper and lower halves of the fuselage can then be stuck together, with the ballbearing nose weight fitting snugly between. Pretty satisfying. I've also dry-fitted the super-chargers and exhaust, but won't glue these down until the whole thing is painted. It's a nicely layered set of parts, each slotting into the next precisely, and the whole thing meshing seamlessly with the nacelles - or it will when glued down! Thanks for your time.
  33. 5 points
    My Scratchbuilt 1/350 HMS Prince of Wales - R09 This model will be displayed permanently at the Hornby Hobbies Visitor Centre in Margate. If anybody is interested in seeing an Airfix kit of the QE Class aircraft carrier, let them know at pr@hornby.com Dave
  34. 5 points
    Hallo again This Salmson I built some time ago. Enjoy the photos! Happy modelling
  35. 5 points
    Hallo again This kit is scale 32. Not easy! Happy modelling
  36. 5 points
    OK folks, gloss varnish on the upper sides done, allow to dry now. Just the other side to do later. All comments welcome. Simon.
  37. 5 points
    Drill hole the size of the paint band in a sheet of plasticard, you do have such? Insert bomb to make the size, paint thin line around the hole on the bomb Not as efficacious as bunging it in a rotary device but does work As does using decal strips on parallel surface, but never around a tapering surface
  38. 5 points
    Thanks @giemme, @bbudde, @Nikolay Polyakov, and @stevehnz for the kind comments, they mean a lot. Right, did a little bit more last night. The nav lights on the wing tips got a touch of X11 before a drop of clear red/green put on the appropriate lights. Also, I forgot to take a pic of the exhaust clams. They look better in real view. Hope to get some varnish on her today. All comments welcome. Simon.
  39. 5 points
    Hi All, A new Vulcan B2 is a good new (I hope also that the breakdown of parts will permit a B1 in the future). I hope also to see a "V-Bomber Resupply set" in 1/72 scale (like the WW 2 one) one day with a Yellow Sun Bom on trailer, A Blue Steel Transporter/Loader, the Van seen in scramble operations, personnel and pilot figures and other accessories... I keep my fingers crossed ! Violet Club
  40. 5 points
    Morning folk's,a let up in the weather meant I was able to get her sprayed after adding a few more sensors etc,I've decided to go all gray in the end but still plan to use the cheat line and hi viz decals.
  41. 5 points
    Hallo again, This kit is a joy! Really. If anybody wants to know how to do the rigging, just ask. I will explain it! There is nothing to say, as the kit is perfect. Happy modeling
  42. 5 points
    Hallo Some pictures are gone, since I had a little mess! So please: Happy modelling
  43. 5 points
    Please keep the post positive guys, I was just trying to get everyone to take a minute to look after themselves and their family members. Please note that this idea was called "gender politics" on another site, which is absolutely laughable, I note here for our good moderators I have no political motives in this post, just want us all to be well and happy.
  44. 5 points
    Saunders-Roe SR-A1 1/72 Planet Models resin kit. Cockpit and intake grill scratch built
  45. 4 points
    Immediately after finishing my Fw 190D-9 from Gertrud Barkhorn (still needs its proper RFI photos), I "start" this one. It'll be my third attempt at this kit. The kit decals were printed in 2010, so this boxing is 10 years old (I already know the original kit was made in the 70s), they aren't cracked, so they should work fine (as long as they don't take much time from moving away of the backing paper). I'll be building the boxart plane. Click on the follow button if you wish to see how this build goes.
  46. 4 points
    Hi All, I've been testing various ways of getting a good yellow finish using the paints I have available. So it's going to be Poundland grey primer followed by Humbrol white and then Humbrol Trainer Yellow. Ideally I would have used white primer and tried other yellow options, but I'm stuck using what I've got on hand. Poundland grey primer* - - next Humbrol white. Dave. * Poundland primer only costs £1 a can (who'd a thunk it). It's OK if used carefully - but never spray it in the house the fumes are very strong.
  47. 4 points
    And some people think that this stuff doesn't matter... ...such charitable work shouldn't go unrewarded, no longer shall poor old Fightersweep feel unregarded and his self esteem continue to climb to lofty heights! Thank you Sir!
  48. 4 points
    Gidday, besides being 1/7 of a nerd, as a relatively new member I think I must be a trainee wit (or twit for short) Regards, Jeff.
  49. 4 points
    As one of those white, privileged males who has it all their own way and enjoys being very short of money and spending my life with the privilidge of having to look after my ailing wife like many other of us 'privileged' guys if we aren't dossing down on the streets without homes to go to. I wouldn't mind a day once a year when someone else apart from my missus gave a damn about me. Easiest setting... well maybe some do but some have it dashed hard.
  50. 4 points
    As you may know I was rather critical of a certain editor a few years back, and I will stand by those comments about that time. However, one thing did strike me and that was the notion of the armchair critic who finds it easy to mock but is unwilling to assist; and by that I mean in all walks of the hobby, not just print magazines. So in an effort to atone and secure my place in Plastic Kit Heaven, I have over the last few years released my own decals and now I've started writing articles for magazines, which some of you may have seen. So here is my take on what's what, and I'd be interested to hear from other members who also write articles as to how much they concur or diverge. The first thing you have to realise is that magazines are not put together by huge teams. Editors will expect contributors to provide their own text and photos with captions, and at about 500 words per page when one allows for some pictures too, it is amazing how soon one runs out of words for say an average 2500 word piece, if one is trying to give a decent balance between detail, interest and readability. I think I re-write my articles 3 or 4 times before I get them down to this. The notion that writers will pad out articles to get payment for an extra page might have happened (we are all human and capable of venality if so inclined) but for me, if I'm asked to write 2500 words then thats what I aim for. If I'm asked for 5000 I can be more detailed and describe things in depth. My last article was 2545 words, and I think I spent 3 hours getting down to that from 2600. Believe me, at this level every word matters! I write in Google Docs which will spell check and context check if you want it to too. I would encourage any contributor to spell check and context check. Spell checking and context checking can be tricky with technical language. Mention RLM colours or FS numbers and see what happens. Contrary to what you might think there is not some huge resource of proof readers and spell checkers on hand to do this for you at the magazine. You are an adult. Have some pride in your work and submit something that is spell checked. Editors will proof read and rewrite if required, but they do miss things as you lot are quick to point out!. If the number of people that some of you think worked on these publications actually did exist, we'd all be paying about £40 a copy to cover the salaries! If you think it's easy, try writing an article for yourself. Make it 2500 words and try not to repeat the phrase "then I assembled", or "I glued x to y" more than 5 times too! In between building the model pause at regular intervals to take several shots of each construction phase. Shots must be properly lit, on a consistent background and with decent depth of field. Now do this while not building a model that you would normally make and keep the text interesting. Hell keep the build interesting too. You have three weeks to do this. You aren't allowed to give up, shelf of doom things or just decide you can be a week late because you cant be bottomed. Your three weeks will include research on the kit subject so you can be familiar with what you are making. You might miss details that a real expert would spot, but then they have spent many years fathoming the intricacies of their pet love. If you are fully 'genned up' on the Avro Lancaster for example, get yourself to a similar standard on the Mig 17 so you can state with certainty which Zavod the C variant with the 5% larger airbrakes came from; model that on the kit, and paint it in a scheme that is as accurate as you can make it. Three weeks. I assure you it is not easy. I find that writing articles and building for such is a completely different ball game to building for one's own pleasure. Now consider the editor who must compile the humble offerings of his contributors, select images and generate his own content too. My experience is that the average working day for these guys is a lot more than eight hours. Probably more like 12, with up to 18 as deadlines draw near. It is a job. They do it to the best of their abilities, and they are not paid a fortune either. An old saying states never to turn a hobby into a career lest it become neither. Well these guys do, and they do it well. You get a typo, yes – that is annoying. Does it detract from the article? Most probably not. Will it annoy the editor they have missed it? Yes. It will and it does. But it does happen. If you think they are just slack, or can't be bothered, or are incompetent, or are too busy fondling lots of "freebies" then you are wrong. Utterly wrong. You do them a great disservice to think that. So, dear reader. The next time you find the spelling a little off in an article, email the editor to let him know. Be polite and proactive, and you will most likely get a reply apologising and promising to try harder! If you think the standard of writing is not very good- then why not have a go yourself? Editors are always looking for new contributors. Surely it's better to add something creative and positive to the hobby than just sit there and mumble over your keyboard? Ultimately your money is required to keep magazines going, and we still live in a free country where purchase is at your discretion, so the ultimate criticism you can level is to not buy of course. We all grumble, we all like to moan and whinge. It's human to do so. But perhaps cut editors a bit of slack from time to time. They are human too.
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