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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/24/2019 in all areas

  1. 32 points
    Morning Folk's.my second build of this little Airfix beauty,I assume this was their end of operational scheme.The only thing that I couldn't tame was the wrap round yellow band so I painted it instead at least then I could match it with the tip tanks.Many thanks for looking in. The Eagle eyed will notice the missing seat tops the carpet monster struck late in the build.
  2. 28 points
    Hiya Folks, Here is my latest model .... the Valom 1/72nd Albemarle,..... a failed bomber which found a niche as a Whitley replacement with the Airborne Forces as an operational type for dropping paratroopers, including the first men to land on D-Day and also as a glider tug, towing Horsa and Waco gliders. Made predominantly of wood over a metal frame, the type was renowned amongst the men who jumped from it for its special style of exit,..... due to the limited headroom a stick of paratroopers would have to `bunny hop' along the fuselage until they reached the rectangular exit hole in the floor! The aircraft I chose to replicate was V1823, P5-S od 297 Sqn based at RAF Brize Norton, which towed a Horsa Glider to Normandy during Op Tonga in the early hours o 6th June 1944 on D-Day and it returned that evening during Op Mallard with another Horsa. It was later transferred to 22 HGCU (Heavy Glider Conversion Unit) but was written off in a crash while towing a Horsa during December 1944. Here is the real aeroplane; And the Albemarle towing a Horsa; Here is the WIP; And here is the model; So thats it,..... quite a challenging build,..... but a nice addition to my Airborne Forces collection and light years ahead of the old vacuformed model that it has replaced, Cheers Tony PS,.... Here is a comparison between the Albemarle and the Mitchell as the former is often described as a British B-25;
  3. 26 points
    Hi all. I recently finished KP's 1/48 Su-25UTG in the colours of the Russian Navy. On the internet I found photos of real aircraft with very faded paint on it. This is what I tried to reproduce. The resin cockpit is from SBS and I added extra panel lines, rivets and numerous scratch built details. I used Akan paints but all colours were mixed to match those on the photos. Weathering was done with Abteilung oil paints. Thank you for watching.
  4. 22 points
    And here is a Flanker I pulled off in a week and a day. It is actually the first Flanker I do with the standard 3-tone scheme (I built a previous SM with the bright blue two-tone). I cut some corners with weathering and pre-paint rituals to get it done so quickly as I saw this as a test build for further Flankers. As usual, I offer the pros and cons of this kit, the reboxed Revell version of the Zvezda kit: Pros: - The fit, the fit, the fit. This is Tamigawa fit all the way. An absolute delight to build, everything locks on perfectly, most astoundingly the intakes. The words "three-piece intakes" should strike fear into the hearts of any modeler and yet Zvezda pulled this off so brilliantly. I don't think I've ever built a kit this big with such good fit. - Accuracy. Looks like a Flanker. Comments by our resident Flanker expert (Flankerman) say this is the most accurate Flanker in 1/72 scale and I'll take his word. - Good assortment of weapons. Lots of R-27s (including both IR and radar versions), R-77s, and two nice Kryptons. - Very good quality of some parts like the landing gear. Cons: - Surface detail. Zvezda seems to be allergic to rivets, and for a plane of this size, it makes the surface looks rather plain. Additionally, the panel lines are too small and in many parts, could not get a wash to stick to them. - Interior detail. The instrument panel decals are great, but would have been better to have raised detail. Wheel wells are absurdly plain. Not even the remotest attempt to reproduce any detail at all. - Ejection seat. Same as the MiG-29 kits, it's just... oddly engineered. - I'm on the record on a number of threads here on BM saying the Revell kit has superior decals as the original Zvezda because, oddly, the Zvezda has no missile decals at all whereas Revell does. However, now that I have built the Revell, I have realized that many of the decals are oversized and some of the stencils do not match the real thing. Zvezda's cockpit details are also better. I suggest getting the Zvezda and sourcing missile decals from another kit. Painting was done with AKAN paints from their original Su-27 set. I have issues spraying their acrylics and they have an annoying knack of rubbing off sharper edges like wing roots and leading edges, when handled. I also noticed the light gray did not contrast enough with the pale blue, so I used Tamiya XF-19 instead. I think it's a bit too dark, as early Flankers effectively did not show that big a contrast between the two. Metallics were Vallejo Metal Color, steel for the darker tone and dark aluminum for the contrast as well as the gun panels. The cockpit was painted Vallejo dark blue gray (70.904) which is virtually identical to the Sukhoi color. Overall, I'm still quite pleased. I then randomly sprayed a bit of Gunze smoke to add some irregularity. Panel wash was done with Humbrol. Thanks for reading, and enjoy the pics!
  5. 20 points
    Spitfire Mk. IXe | 1/72 | Eduard flown by W/Cdr Rolf Arne Berg, CO of No. 132 Wing, Twente AB, the Netherlands, winter 1944 – 1945 I finished this on October 20, 2019. It is the Spitfire Mk. IXe from Eduard's "The longest day" dual combo with decals from Eduard's royal boxing of the Mk. IX kindly provided by @Procopius. Since I am roughly half Norwegian, I've wanted to make a collection of all the fighters the Royal Norwegian Air Force has flown. While Rolf Berg was a Norwegian in the RAF, I figured it was a good one to start my collection with because of the prominent Norwegian pre-war markings on the tail and wings. When I first saw Berg's spitfire a couple of years ago, I knew I had to make a model of it! From the instructions: "This aircraft was flown by the CO of No.132 (Norwegian) Wing W/Cdr Rolf Arne Berg. Berg ordered ground personel of his unit to paint the pre-war Norwegian national insignia on the wings and rudder in the fall of 1944 and asked RAF Supreme Command for permission to carry this marking. RAF Command deemed the marking as forbidden and Berg was forced to remove it in January 1945. Berg met his fate on February 3, 1945. At the very end of his combat tour he decided to fly one more combat mission. His Spitfire PV181 was hit by AA-fire over Eelde, the Netherlands. Wing damage led to a crash and Berg's death. He scored 5 3⁄4 confirmed and 1 1⁄2 probable kills with 3 damaged." The instructions say he was killed "...at the end of his tour...", but the great article here (https://www.norwegianspitfire.com/rolf-arne-berg-the-legend/) said it was on the very day he was leaving service and that the mission was voluntary! Very sad, indeed. He sounded like a great pilot, and a gentleman. I built this at the same time as an Eduard Mk. XVI. WIP is here Finishing: Seams filled with CA (superglue) Paints: Mr. Surfacer 1500 black primer > Hataka Ocean Gray/Dark Green/Light Sea Gray/Sky > Mr. Surfacer 1500 black spray and Mr. Color Aircraft Gray for invasion stripes Decals: Eduard Royal Class boxing decals Weathering/Wear: Selected panel lines highlighted with 0.2 mm pencil > Tamiya weathering pastels (black) > sun fading with white oil paint > oil staining and dirt streaks with Black and Burnt Umber watercolor Paints > Chips with Testors Chrome enamel applied with a spotter brush Thanks for looking, I hope you enjoy. Constructive criticism, comments and questions welcome!
  6. 17 points
    This time the model with Polish insignia. MiG-21MF with side number 1910 stationed in Minsk Mazowiecki. The model is Trumpeter 1:32 scale, I hope that eventually someone will release a new version of this model. Model as always straight from the box.
  7. 15 points
    Spitfire Mk. XVI bubbletop | 1/72 | Eduard No. 443 Squadron, Uetersen airfield, Germany, August 1945 I finished this on October 20, 2019. It is one of the Eduard Spitfire Mk. XVI dual combo kits. These Eduard Spitfire kits are marvelous. Unbelievably detailed and mostly effortless to put together (I had a little difficulty fitting the wings on, which I don't remember having a problem with on my Eduard Mk. IXc kit. I made this one at the same time as and Eduard Mk. IXe (Rolf A. Berg, Norwegian pilot in the RAF) WIP is here From the instructions: "No. 443 Squadron RCAF had a Hornet painted in the unit crest along with the motto 'Our Sting is Death'. The colors on the spinner thus corresponded with the name of the unit. The squadron flew Spitfire Mk.XVIs and stayed in Uetersen until its disbandment on May 15, 1946. The Sky band on the tail was overpainted with camouflage colors." Finishing: Seams filled with CA (superglue) Paints: Mr. Surfacer 1500 black primer > Hataka Ocean Gray/Dark Green/Light Sea Gray Decals: Kit decals Weathering/Wear: Selected panel lines highlighted with 0.2 mm pencil > Tamiya weathering pastels (black) > sun fading with white oil paint > oil staining and dirt streaks with Black and Burnt Umber watercolor Paints > Chips with Testors Chrome enamel applied with a spotter brush Thanks for looking, I hope you enjoy. Constructive criticism, comments and questions welcome!
  8. 15 points
    Hello guys, here are thirteen photos of my most recently completed model, Airfix's 1:48 Bf 109E-4 with the markings of Franz von Werra.
  9. 14 points
    For cheatline lovers everywhere and to complete my trio of recent builds I present the Zvezda Tu-204-100 in the old-fashioned, no-nonsense livery previously carried by Air Koryo’s P-633. The real P-633 was built in 2009 for Red Wings but the order was cancelled and after a spell as an engine test bed she joined Air Koryo in 2010. Sadly the cheatline has now gone. In the summer of 2018 Air Koryo repainted their two Tu-204s (P-633 and her -300 comrade P-632) in a boring and ugly “new” livery with a plain red line below the windows and a wavy flag on the tail. This model was on my “waiting to start” list for a while but seeing the superb Cubana Tu-204 by @Malair earlier in the year inspired me to bump it up the queue. Apart from a few small detail additions the build is OOB. The kit is generally up to the standards we’ve come to expect from Zvezda although the nose wheel assembly is a pain and despite the right engine being a perfect fit to the wing attaching the left one was a struggle involving superglue, Milliput, Mr Surfacer, extensive touching up and an end result which does not invite close inspection. I don’t know if the fault was mine or the kit’s but it was weird and caught me out at a late stage of the build. Paint is Halfords Appliance White and Racking Grey with Tamiya metallics. The coroguard on the upper wings and tailplanes, which appears to be unique to the Air Koryo aircraft, is a mix of Tamiya XF16 and XF56, roughly 3:2 but not very precisely. The pattern is “assumed” rather than definitive since I couldn’t find a good overhead view. Decals are by 8A Decs. They are designed for this kit and fitted well. They also include “photo real” windows, perhaps not quite Authentic Airliners standards but effective and welcome nonetheless. Detail decals came from the very decent kit sheet and the spares box. The Zvezda Tu-204 is a fine kit and captures the character of the real aircraft. However it has one serious drawback - the similarity in size and appearance makes it a tantalising glimpse of what a Zvezda Boeing 757 would be like. I suppose we can still dream….. Thanks for looking and as always constructive criticism is welcome. Dave G
  10. 13 points
    Whilst searching for some of my daughters pictures I found a folder with these in. It was built for Display in GeeDee models in Nottingham , now sadly closed like so many Local model shops. This was built back in 2012 when first released, I remember laughing as my little girl had hold of it, when it was part finished ( 3and a half then) zooming it around the sky making jet noises. I stopped laughing as she 'landed ' it at what would of been about 30g if it was real and a ROD that snapped off all the U/C. Fortunately a quick call to Airfix had replacement parts on rout and it was repaired, painted and put on display before she got a second trial flight. Seam to remember it was as nice kit, about time for a re release as I understand they are fetching quite a bit, most of them stashed away no doubt. Finished in all over white courtesy of Xtracolor enamel. Would like to have got some shots with a better background but time was against me. With a just started Gnat for scale A bit of inspiration for Timmas I hope Paul
  11. 12 points
    A vac Gee-Bee from 10 years ago (the one posted before was an injected Amodel one): Original text: It is as if my friends were trying to prove that there is no kit impossible to build...as long as it is other modeler who builds them. The Gee Bee needs no introduction; it is just a manned, slightly winged, aerial engine cowl. This vac, together with a few others, was given to me by fellow modeler Keith Hudson. I am grateful of course but now I may have to build them. Humbug. In any case, the Airframe vacuformed kit is old but generally nice if your standards are flexible like mine, but the styrene in this one is definitely on the thin side (I have seen other offers from this manufacturer with a pleasant thickness) to the point of both flimsiness and cause glue terror -a syndrome you develop after you melted a kit trying to glue it-. The iconic wheel pants were so thin that I decided just to hold the halves together with my fingers and wick down a bit of superglue. I had, nevertheless, to explain friends and neighbors why I was holding a minute white part on my hand for the next two days. Kidding. The decals, by Microscale, were detailed; nevertheless the shape of the larger ones (on the wings, fus, and pants) is not really well designed to wrap around the areas they are supposed to cover. I am not talking here about not being able to stretch and adapt to the model curves (which is understandable to a certain extent) but of shapes that tend not to coincide, being in general a bit large. I wonder if the decal designer ever applied them on a model. If that would have been the case it should have been realized that some adjustments (drastic in a few cases) were in order. My decal sheet was incomplete and badly crackled (nothing to blame the manufacturer for here), a fact that I caught just in time not to use them before spraying on them a few protecting coats to build up a carrier. The plan worked only for the smaller decals, but the condition and age of the larger ones was so bad originally that they shattered anyway. I had to print a set from a scan I took before doing anything with the decals, which proved wise. I also made some louvers that go on the front fuselage. At the end, a total decal nightmare. The Amodel Gee Bee (which I built long time ago) decals were less attractive and a tad pink, but the bits conformed much better to the contours, if the area they covered was smaller (more painted areas to match for the modeler). As usual, you have to ride your spares’ box (or supplier) to get engine, wheels and prop and scratch any other things you wish to add. It is worth of note though that a transparent vac canopy was provided. The model compares well to a portrait of a remote auntie I had that was a little on the chubby side. Since this was supposed to be a quickie for an informal build, a succinct interior was added and things were kept as simple as possible, which is never really simple with vacs and small models. Images depict how the parts left on the building board in the vacuum chamber magically attach to each other to eventually form a model, by gravity mainly. Anyway, did I enjoy it? you betcha. I only wish I had had a decent, new, decal sheet, because do you know what happens when you match your cowl and spats to a certain hue of a decal set, and then you have to change decals? Yes, that. The rest was pretty fun.
  12. 11 points
    Spitfire Mk. XIV | 1/48 | Starfix Great Britain | S/L James H. "Ginger" Lacey, Pilot I finished this 1/3/2017. I started it 9/15/2015 and was one of the first two models I started when I got back into the hobby after a 15 year break. This was the worst model kit I have ever ever put together, bar none. Aside from the obvious shape and proportion issues: the scale is wrong (1/54 or 1/57, depending where you measure) the quality was terrible the decals were trash (pictures follow) the raised detail was ridiculously inaccurate and out of proportion (pictures follow) the box said "mk. 21", but the body seemed more like a Mk.V or Mk. IX. I decided to make it into a Mk. XIV But, I used it to try out a lot of techniques that I had read about during the 15 years I wasn't modeling. I figured that if I messed up, this model didn't matter much, so no loss (The F-14 I was working on at the same time had the same objectives and reasoning). During this build I had many firsts: rescribing panel lines pin wash black basing sun fading using various shades of the base colors using Tamiya smoke to create dirt and grime oil wash to make gas and oil stains using epoxy putty to make a new tail fin and try and correct the nose shape using Testors acrylic paints (which I will never do again!!) More info after the "glamour shots" Why was this in my stash? Well, I got it at a dollar store (yes a dollar!! That spells kwality!) during my last year of high school. This was pre-internet, and in my small town there were very few models to be found. This was such an exotic Spitfire to me, and I had no idea if I'd ever see a kit of it again, so I forked over the dollar, even though I knew the quality would be bad. I dug it out in 2015 to try some new techniques. First, though I had to get rid of the preposterous raised panel lines and rivets: You may not be able to tell, but the panel lines on the wings are perpendicular to the seam, not perpendicular to the centerline of the aircraft. That means that when dry fit, and looking down from above, the panel lines formed a "v" pointing aft! The tail fin was entirely too small to be a Mk. 21 (or anything other than an early mark): I set out to fix the shape of the nose by sanding the squared off top: and then re-shaping it with epoxy putty: I made valve covers, which you'll see later. I really should've elongated the nose, but that was going to be a real stretch for my skills. Next, I re-shaped the tail using the epoxy putty. I found a great side profile on the internet, sized it to 1/48, then printed it. That's when I discovered that this kit is not 1/48! In the end, I figured the fuselage was 1/54. Here it is prior to priming: Then there were the decals. They were out of proportion and the roundels off-center: and then I took the protective paper off: I wonder how you use these decals? Well, that clears that up! At this point, I was kind of proud of my work (not of the model itself), and figured it would be worth buying some aftermarket decals. I really liked Ginger Lacey's plane, and was under the impression that he flew a brown and green Mk. XIV LF based on a lot of pictures of models and die cast toys. I am now fairly certain that is not the case after reading this thread: The markings are a little big because of the scale difference between model and decals. As terrible as this kit was, and as bad as the shape is, I still keep this around because it was the first time I achieved a fairly realistic finish on a model. It took over a year to finish because I learned so much that I actually re-painted it a few times to use what I learned. Since I like the SEAC scheme, I recently bought a Hasagawa Mk. VIII with the SEAC paint scheme. Since I like Ginger Lacey's a/c, I bought an Acadamy Mk. XIV and some aftermarket decals. Hopefully those will be appearing soon on the RFI! Thanks for looking -- Jokes, snide remarks or otherwise are clearly in order here!
  13. 10 points
    Well folks,..... I`m calling it done!!,..... I`ve added the tail windows, the anti fouling framework which prevented parachute static line strops from fouling the tail control surfaces, radio antenna masts etc,..... plus a length of clear sprue to keep the nose wheel on the ground,...... despite the mass of fishing weights fitted inside the fuselage and wing leading edges!! So here it is; I`ll stick some more in RFI later,...... cheers for the encouragement along the way folks and helping me to get my modelling mojo back. All the best Tony
  14. 10 points
    Part 2 Interior I used the Eduard etch for the rear section as so much would be seen through the gaping hole. I also added wires and support stringers to be poking out of the hole. I wanted the rear fighting section to be rather caotic. I wanted to simulate spent shells from the 50 cals to be all over the floor. I used brass wire cut to small sections (not all the same size, that probably would have broken me to measure) but looks good enough. I coated the floor with Klear and dropped them in. Coated with a second coat of Klear hoping they would stick. I had to stick a few down after with superglue. Coated again with Klear to remove superglue fumes fogging. Quickboost oxygen bottles scattered over the area too for added chaos look 20191010_205514 by Richard Page, on Flickr 20191012_160512 by Richard Page, on Flickr 20191012_160524 by Richard Page, on Flickr 20191012_165012 by Richard Page, on Flickr Quickboost oxygen bottles scattered over the area too for added chaos look View through the hole in the fuselage 20191012_170352 by Richard Page, on Flickr Cockpit just had spare belts from the spares box (believe it or not, they were italeri 1/48 wessex belts) and quickboost oxygen tanks behind the pilots (as large and visible through the windows I did add seatbelts using spare etch throughout the aircraft 20191010_205450 by Richard Page, on Flickr Apologies, I didnt get photos of the rest of the internals (was too focused on the outside of the aircraft. Aircraft fuselage closed up, one wing added and primed (white for the red paint). I am thinking of doing it olive drab and grey with a red tail and wing tips (as a bassingbourn machine as the airfield is just down the road from me). Masking of windows done using the eduard masking set (Lazy I know, but worth it with an aircraft like this one) 20191022_163556 by Richard Page, on Flickr 20191022_183409 by Richard Page, on Flickr Last job completed this evening, preshading and painted the red (tamiya xf-7 first and then added white to the red to lighten the shade before spraying again. not sure if it made a difference). Damage to tail visible in these pics 20191023_185034 by Richard Page, on Flickr 20191023_185029 by Richard Page, on Flickr 20191023_185042 by Richard Page, on Flickr I know this is the aircraft section, however, the diorama is going to have a couple of jeeps on it. I brought the Italeri twin pack (which is aimed at war gamers). only a few parts, but look ok. First shot of green added detail to be painted another day) 20191023_185047 by Richard Page, on Flickr Thats it so far. thanks Dr Quack
  15. 9 points
    This is my build of a Sherman Firefly 1c of the 3rd/4th County of London Yeomanry, 4th Armoured Brigade. I’ve taken some liberties with the stowage as I don’t actually have a photo of the tank, so it’s basically just my interpretation. The WIP can be found HERE. Thanks for looking and thanks to all those who followed the build and commented. John.
  16. 8 points
    A FROG Comet was one of my contributions to the Classic FROG Group Build that ends this evening. A joy from start to finish. The build came out of the blue, with a quite amazing offer from Cliff who donated the kit to anyone who fancied having a crack at it. I caught my jaw before it hit the ground and replied before my next breath! The build was as smooth as silk. Not too many parts in the first place, the usual early FROG excellent fit and a straightforward out the box assembly made for a completely hassle free build. The BOAC scheme is so nice it is almost impossible to get it wrong. A beautiful cheatline, very smart blue and white paintwork and all that lovely polished metal just want to make you go the extra mile on the thing. The metalwork would have stalled a bit as my weapon of choice for this sort of finish is the long gone S 'n J polishing powder. I was just about out of my ever diminishing stocks when rescue came from a very kind offer from Charlie, who sent me a near full bottle of the magic powder. Thanks Charlie, you and Cliff were stars here. I made a simple base out of card, sprayed with auto primer misted on and a basic grid ruled off in fine marker to give me a hardstanding. Yet another helping hand, Mike Dean in this case, turned up the Matchbox Commer van for me. A strip down and refinish in generic BOAC colours got me a bit of ground support equipment to sit alongside the plane. An internet purchase of a bag of 1.100 scale figures got me a pair of pilots to add a bit of life to the scene. I think pictures taken in a coal cellar would have come out fine with this build, the thing just loves the camera! Those polished wings catch the eye regardless of light source or exposure. Enough of the rambling, here's the finished model... The build thread is here...
  17. 8 points
    The model now seems dry enough to move carefully so here are the promised pictures. These were a bit hard to take as the finish is very glossy at the moment and the sun id pouring in through the window which caused too much reflection and when I drew the curtains, the flash was needed which, guess what? Caused too much reflection! What we have is the result of much messing about with filters to get something vaguely acceptable. I am now waiting on Royal Fail to deliver some serial decals for the model. The ones I have are about thirty five years old and look a bit dodgy to my eye. Best not take a chance and get some of Xtradecal's finest in instead. Thanks for looking. Martian the Impatient
  18. 8 points
    1)Not one without which no line up would be complete 2)Not "iconic" 3)Not one which may be a participant in any anniversary of any kind in the foreseeable future 4) 1/12 scale Commander Spock. Modellers have been screaming for a new Vulcan . This will be a tie in with a very successful film/TV franchise and, a guaranteed,sure fire,gold mine/best seller 5)Not be most of the (some outlandish )suggestions already noted 6)Ones that nobody predicted - except me.:(1)A Valiant B2 /new tool TSR 2 double kit with multi option squadron markings and, optional buckets of instant sunshine/ conventional H E loadouts AND, (2) a set of conversion parts/decals to turn the soon to be reissued 1967 Concorde kit into the German SST featured in the TV series "Man in the High Castle"! (Well, it DOES bear a close resemblance to the original short nosed Concorde!) So what?This IS a fantasy thread really!! I can be as outlandish and unrealistic as anyone else! Allan
  19. 8 points
    Just completed this one and another cracking kit from Airfix. It's worth buying for the box art alone! Construction was fairly straightforward but joining up the fuselage halves seemed to give me a little bit of trouble. The seat is 'suspended' and fitted between two locating pin holes as well as the tailwheel in the same manner, which made alignment tricky. Also the instrument panel and coaming were a tight fit and once the fuselage was sealed up i realised the instrument panel wasn't seated correctly. In trying to reposition it i lost it into the abyss never to be seen again! Oh well it's dark in there so you won't see much! I don't think it's a difficult build, but there's a lot of fitting to be done at the same time, and as is the case with the new run of Airfix kits they're all a bit of a CAD designed snug fit. I could have done with another pair of hands at times to be honest! Next time would be easier I'm sure. Anyway the rest of the build was a breeze with some nice well engineered touches here and there. Airbrushed with a mix of Vallejo and Tamiya and finished with Vallejo premium satin varnish. First time I've used this varnish and it gave a slight eggshell finish so not too matt and lifeless. Weathering kept to a minimum with just some mig ammo panel wash here and there. Cheers for looking
  20. 7 points
    Been wanting to do something like this since I was a kid and brought the Monogram 1/48 B-17 with the crashed B-17 suppliment. I think that my skills have reached the ability to do it. Started this a few weeks ago, but only decided today to add a build log (incase it went very very wrong - but I took photos as I went along). I thought to try it in 1/72 would be worth a try. New Airfix kit chosen. added Quickboost engines and airbottles (for use in the cockpit and in the back. I also picked up the eduard rear section internal photoetch kit. As I have a plan to have the side blown out to reveal the detail inside (found a pic of something similar online) I also plan to have one of the engines ripped off by the bad landing (and 1 wheel ripped off by the impact - like the monogram suppliment original). I also wanted to have the wing (same side as the ripped off engine and wheel) broken off and have added flak damage to the wing section to explain that it was weakened by having the internal support broken and the bad landing was the final straw for it (this would then lead to the engine hitting the ground a ripping off. Progress so far. Started by cutting the wing which I intend to add damage detail too and the fuselage damage. I also added damage to the tail, but this will be visible in a later photo. 20191002_201842 by Richard Page, on Flickr 20191002_201534 by Richard Page, on Flickr Scary moment. Either this is going to go well, or I have just ruined a decent kit. Only time will tell. I aslo cut out the landing flaps as I want them deployed on the finished dio 20191012_111336 by Richard Page, on Flickr I had an idea of using kitchen foil for the ripped wing skin and the fuselage section which has folded up. this could work (test fit with holding foil above hole) 20191002_201939 by Richard Page, on Flickr I wanted one engine to be damaged by flak or fighter cannon shells. damage added to wing and the end of the engine nacelle (also to the resin engine). I simulated a feather prop by cutting the blades off and turning them sideways. Small details! 20191013_164500 by Richard Page, on Flickr 20191013_164425 by Richard Page, on Flickr My next task was to create a firewall for the engine which had been ripped off, this involve cutting some of the nacelle off and using a circle from the spares box (lucky with the fit). I drilled out the supercharger at the bottom and cut a corresponding semi circle out of the new fire wall. The bit of the nacelle by the line from J11 in the instruction booklet below is the bit which had to be removed 20191013_164740 by Richard Page, on Flickr 20191013_174510 by Richard Page, on Flickr looks quite bare so I used some bits from the spares box (spare photo etch etc to get the below 20191013_182042 by Richard Page, on Flickr Although it is 1/72 and quite small, I still wasnt happy with the end result. I used lead wire to add wires and brass wire to simulate the twisted and broken engine mount (primer coat added) and I am happy with the result. Final paint and positioning of wires will come at the end of the build 20191022_144821 by Richard Page, on Flickr Next job was recreating the broken wing. Spare bits of photo etch, brass wire, guitar strings used to make the area look busy. I used kitchen foil to recreate the torn aircraft skin and glued and cut it into the closest panel line to try and eliminate the ineffitable step. Primed in the final pic, has worked well I think. 20191022_125505 by Richard Page, on Flickr 20191022_144807 by Richard Page, on Flickr 20191022_144832 by Richard Page, on Flickr Also put foil over the hole in the fuselage to mask the interior for painting and decalling. Damage will be added at the end. 20191022_163559 by Richard Page, on Flickr Part 2 to follow with current work done on the interior
  21. 7 points
    Hi All, Here's the Trumpeter Voroshilovets tractor. Great kit with excellent detail and good tracks. I have ordered the 203mm tracked howitzer to go with it. Painted with Mr Colour Russian Green and weathered with the kitchen sink. Unusual looking vehicle much coveted by the Germans apparently. Usual C+C welcome. Thanks David
  22. 6 points
    Alright, my first time building a jet in like forever! Or at least, not one that was not sci fi... Anyway, this is a build for a coworker's uncle, due for Christmas. I was looking for the Revell F-model super bug, but those were either prohibitively expensive or not available. Another option was the Hasegawa kit, but that lacks cockpit detail, made up for with decals, and very short intake trunking. The Academy kit falls between the two in my estimation, and from the pics I've seen turns into a very fine looking model of the subject. Here are some obligatory box art and pics. The box art is really attractive! Sprue shots, I like the wings and body already being together. One less long join to worry about. As for external detail, I'm no expert, but this looks mice and refined. I'm going to have to light on the paint! It should look good with a light wash too. Here's the cockpit with its nice detailing. There are some decals for it, but mostly it'll be up to some careful painting to pick things out. Here's one of the seats. I have some PE coming for it, including belts to dress it up some. Don't know how well they can be seen. but there is some nice rivet detail along the rim of the canopy. It does have a seam down the middle to be sanded away, but that shouldn't take too long. I'm going to keep it wrapped until it's needed, at which point it will be secured in the down and locked position. Bottoms of the wings here and the elevators. The elevators will need a little work, seeing as they are intended to sit neutral, and I'm going to want to droop them at the back. Then we have the belly and the gear bays. The bays themselves look nice. They could use a little more wire and piping detail, but otherwise nice. Except for the mounting holes for the gear doors. Those are ugly. I'll see what I can do about them. Then we come to the multi-colored parts. There are two sets of fins, a pair in gray for a common squadron mount and ones in black for the more colorful of the livery. I'll be using the black, more because the detail is a little sharper on them than on the gray ones. Also the intake trunking and gear and main gear bays. Next is the ordnance, which could be better. If I was building for myself I'd probably source from another kit, especially with those blocky pegs. I may cut those off and fill the mounting holes and just pin the lot. Last up are the decals. Not the stickers. Won't be using no stinking stickers! As to the much preferred decals, they look nice! I can't wait to get those on! Well, that's all the parts. Depending on how this one goes, I may buy another one for myself... All that's left is to start, and despite where the instructions say to, I'm beginning with the flaps! Those and the slats are going to be cut away and dropped, and I figure it is easier to get the major surgery out of the way first before tossing it all back together again. And that's it for now. I'll continue cutting away the plastic tomorrow and probably in the evening, and hopefully get those separated in short order. Until then, model on! Thom https://imgur.com/a/yxeDAfC
  23. 6 points
    Following on from my build of the old Airfix Savoia-Marchetti SM.79, here are the pictures of the completed model. Build thread here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235048734-savoia-marchetti-sm79-lebanese-style/
  24. 6 points
    Basic cockpit assembly is taking place, I'm using some of the etched provided in the kit. I left out only those requiring removal of the raised details on control boxes etc. which are fine enough and the etched do not look any better. Looking at the instructions, I believe those etched wheels on either cockpit side should be placed higher, almost at the cockpit upper edge and not at the side consoles (these were elevator trim wheel and oil cooler louvres wheel, respectively). I'm not sure of the positions of the fabric holder of the signal pistol cartriges, which was according to period pictures located on the right hand side, while the kit has it on the left (I admit I'm reffering to "older" Yak-1 cockpit shown in the Khuznyecov book "Pervyj Jak" - "The First Yak", so the Yak-1b could have placed it otherwise). Time clock: 45 min
  25. 6 points
    Hello anyway Ian I think the pictures might be back from Boots, shall we have a look? Here, looks like they missed the ones of Aunt Maud on the beach at Brean Perhaps the fact she was changing into her bikini behind the screen on a blowy day upset the lady in charge... Anyway, still above the tail warning ( I presume) bit attached and the heat exchanger looking devices both sides of the tail (at the time of the pictures. ZA714 has the full complement of boxes and stuff attached nowadays) So on to the front end Posing again on my custom model stand Now I think this picture shows the windows again but this time with cuts away from the masking modified Now I have to build up the two nose pitot locations, I am using blobbed and shaped superglue to make the mounting point more prominent Laters again guys, there's filing afoot
  26. 6 points
    A conversion of the old Matchbox Victor using the Freightdog resin set. In June 1960, the Air Ministry reduced the number of planned Victor B2s from 59 to 24. XM715 was built in the 4th and final batch of 5 airframes which included 714-718. She was assembled at Radlett as a high-level free fall nuclear bomber to carry the Yellow Sun 2 nuclear weapon. She first flew with John Allam at Radlett on 31st December 1962. After a normal Production Flight Test Schedule of 4 flights, she was ready for delivery to the RAF in March 1963. It was normal for squadron crews to go to Radlett and pick up the bombers and on 4th March 1963 she was flown to RAF Wittering and taken on charge prior to her acceptance checks. She was allocated to No 100 Squadron in May 1963. 715 remained at Wittering until 8 July 1964 when she returned to Radlett to take her turn on the Handley Page conversion programmes.
  27. 6 points
    Thank you, but I'd certainly hope they were decent matches. They're matched by spectrophotometer to the RAF Museum chips, as is our Sky. We own two copies of the RAFM chips as well as having access to three copies of BS381C 1996 as a backup. Whilst the tabulated colour coordinates in BS381C are consistent between the two copies there are surprising variances between the expensive BS381C chips. The RAF Museum chips are consistent between our two copies from different editions with different front covers. If serious about this colour evaluation malarkey you should throw all this visual colour matching stuff into the long grass and measure objectively using a calibrated light source and an instrument - for your purposes I'd recommend looking at the "Nix Pro Color Sensor" www.nixsensor.com which is relatively affordable compared to a professional/industrial desk mounted spectrophotometer (the one hooked up to the paint machine's computer is calibrated annually, btw) and is both highly portable and convenient to use with a smartphone app which gives you results in many colourspace models. CIELAB is of course the current benchmark, and the DeltaE calculation is the current best way to concisely denote closeness of match or otherwise.
  28. 6 points
    Lifted from Fantastic Plastic's FB page: "Finally finished the prototype build of our upcoming 1:48 Northrop HL-10 lifting body. (Yes, it's seen in the opening shots of the famous Six Million Dollar man intro...but it's not the one that crashes. That's the M2-F2 -- which we'll also have out later this year.) I plan to start offering the kit to people on our reservations list, which now totals about 100. So it's going to be a while before everyone who wants one can get one. Kits will sell for $80.00 each, plus shipping." Tommo.
  29. 6 points
    No speculation - FACT. The Allison engined Mustangs supplied to the RAF, being the original Mustang Mk.I, Mk.IA and Mk.II all used the RAF supplied and fitted Sutton Harness. That is confirmed by numerous original period documents including the RAF Pilot's notes and RAF Aircraft Servicing Manuals, a whole lot of photographs and confirmed by pilot's who flew them. No speculation - FACT. The Allison engined Mustangs supplied to the RAF, being the original Mustang Mk.I, Mk.IA and Mk.II came from NAA fitted with the standard US pistol grip style top section to the control column. There are the photos of an early cockpit mockup produced by NAA showing a circular spade type control column top section. These were photos produced by NAA for publicity and other purposes. But as the aircraft came off the production line, they came with the standard US style pistol grip. That is confirmed by original period documentation including the RAF pilots notes, a whole lot of photographs and confirmed as well in newsreel footage and confirmed by the pilots who flew them. A very, very, very few, probably no more than a handful, of very early AG serialled Mustang Mk.Is were modified at unit level at the direction of senior officers, to have their usual 'personal' allocated aircraft modified by the removal of the US style pistol grip and its replacement with a circular style spade grip. That circular grip was sourced from another NAA product already in RAF service, the NA Harvard Mk.I. It was apparently a relatively simple substitution, undoing and removing the original grip and disconnecting the firing button wiring, then replacing it with the circular grip from the Harvard Mk.I - the tubing diameter of the two control columns was the same and the wiring for the gun buttons was the same. The officer(s) requesting this personal modification had the 'clout' to get it done and in particular were long serving RAF officers who were very used to the RAF style circular spade grip and felt uncomfortable flying with the US style grip. Confirmed to me personally by pilots who had seen the circular style spade grip fitted to the senior officers early Mustang and who had on occasions flown that senior officer's Mustang. The unofficial modification did not last long as the senior officer(s) involved realised that they could never guarantee availability of their allocated aircraft and the rate of turnover of early AG serialled Mustangs in Squadrons as aircraft were sent back into MUs for further modifications or passed on to the OTU for non-operational use, it made more sense for them to stick with the standard US pistol grip. From the details provided to me by the pilots involved, including access to Squadron records and original Pilot's Log Books, I have been able to identify by serial some of the aircraft so modified, where and when. The later Merlin engined Mustangs used by the RAF in the UK and MTO were all fitted with RAF supplied and fitted Sutton Harnesses and were fitted with the NAA supplied standard US style pistol grip top section to the control column. That is all confirmed by numerous original period documents including RAF Pilots Notes, RAF Aircraft Servicing Manuals, lots of photographs and pilots who flew them. There are numerous other threads here on Britmodeller where the matter of what type of harness, control columns and other details of early RAF Mustangs have been well covered, which include copies of original period documentation and photographs for reference purposes. Similarly the types of harness, control columns and other details of RAF Merlin engined Mustangs have been pretty well covered and detail provided. Unfortunately in recent years there have been a couple of publications pitched at modellers that have been less than accurate in presenting the full and correct information on RAF Mustangs, both Allison engined and Merlin engined, and a lot of "myths" from earlier published works have been repeated without confirming accuracy of the original source material. The original source published material that a lot of these publications have depended on was based around what was available in the 1960s, 70s and 80s, well before many of the relevant files held in Government archives were declassified and became available to later generations of researchers and authors. They get quoted often in response to queries on forums such as this one, and so the myths and inaccurate information keeps geting perpetuated. The aircraft shown in the original post is an early AG Serialled NA Mustang Mk.I with the early 'plated funnel' style camera installation (was discontinued in favour of the simpler cut out perspex window arrangement on later production AG, AL, AM, AP series Mustang Mk.I and certainly never seen on a Mustang Mk.IA or Mk.II), that in this photo where the camera lens would normally be, has been 'plugged'. Well used and worn aircraft, probably overdue to head to a MU for some servicing including a repaint. And to be completely accurate, a RAF Mustang Mk.I is technically not a P-51. It is a Mustang, but the type predates the adoption of the US P51 type designation, which came in with the P-51 Mustang, which was the equivalent of the Mustang Mk.IA in RAF service.
  30. 5 points
    Another finisher from the FROG Squad GB, this was my attempt at improving what FROG provided. Off the top of my head, I did the following: - removed the moulded in interior detail and scratched a 'pit - removed the fin and dorsal fillet; replaced with a cut down Airfix Mossie fin and scratch-built strake - reshaped nose and tail cone with milliput - removed raised lip at rear of cockpit opening - opened up and enlarged radiator inlets; added scratchbuilt rad detail - thinned down wing leading edges drastically, moving point of max thickness rearward - cleaned up landing gear legs and added support stays from brass tube - replaced tailwheel with Vampire nose gear - replaced main wheels with resin examples - reshaped and rescribed engine nacelles - added spar caps, and fuse main spar cover from Tamiya tape - added nav lights from clear styrene - drilled out cannon troughs - windscreen cut from clear sheet to dimensions supplied by @David A Collins - smash moulded canopy - added bomb racks from Airfix Typhoon and bombs from Tamiya Mosquito - substituted rocket tail fins from the Hobbyboss Typhoon Phew! Not surprising it took me over 3 months. The decals are from the kit and Xtradecal RAF roundels. Paint was xtracrylics PRU blue and dark sea grey plus Tamiya dark green rattle can (not the RAF dark green, I later realised!). The observant will spot the howler I made when painting the camouflage. Enjoy! Martin
  31. 5 points
    Forgot to mention, really looking forward to sowing the antenna farm down the port side Got to be fun
  32. 5 points
    Oh kay All done for this afternoon Stuff to do today, done and it is still today Moving along tomorrow Glues need to set and mature before trimming too
  33. 5 points
    Managed to dispense and apply the paint. This stuff went on really good. I'll start the wet sanding process in a few days to smooth everything out that much more before I start with the decaling and clear coats. We'll be using the "Wet Look" clear on this one so it'll really pop.
  34. 5 points
    Distracted at the moment by these: Door furniture for the bedroom, ready for some Humbrol 21. Room now decorated (before and after): Carpet being fitted on Tuesday.
  35. 5 points
    Before I can add the engine nacelles and booms I wanted to add some rivet detail and re-scribe some panel lines that have been removed. I want to add a couple of access panels for the machine guns so I scribed a couple of boxes to represent these panels. While I was at it I re-scribed a couple of panel lines that had been sanded too much. Rosie the Riveter was broken out and put to use. I first marked where I wanted the rivets to be with a soft pencil. I then used the riveting tool to carefully make the rivets. The “lower” wings were also riveted. Next I’ll be painting the wing areas that will be hard to reach once their fixed in place. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)
  36. 5 points
    White Ensign Models didn't really do themselves (or me, by virtue of legacy belief) any favours in this respect because they chose not to market the best thinners and instead recommended white spirit which is probably the single worst way I could think of to thin enamel. As you noticed, it takes ages to dry and furthermore it absolutely stinks. This is a feature brought by bad thinner choice rather than the paint itself. When thinned with a naptha based thinner which we have chosen to make available, the whole experience is drastically different. Many using these can now, like me, handle and unmask as soon as the airbrush is cleaned providing that the paint application is in multiple thin passes close-in using the airflow to blow-dry.
  37. 5 points
    Their newest re-tooled kits fits both the knowledgable enthusiast and children I would say. I just got back to the hobby because I introduced my kids to it, and couldn’t help myself from joining in. I remember how I used to buy kits - by spending a happy hour in the hobby shop looking at box art and reading the parts count - and my kids do the same now, only online*. Now I read build logs (I stopped reading reviews after too many ”Excellent kit! - totally recommended!! - Thank you Kit Manufacturer X for the sample!!!”-reviews on total train wrecks of a kit) and look for accuracy, something that was quite unimportant for me 30 years, just as it is unimportant for my kids now. For the kids I let them choose and just check the ease of build before I buy them something, since nothing kills interest so much as failure. What I’m trying to say, is that 1) re-tooling popular aircraft to decent quality and ease of construction, coupled with fancy boxart and 2) trying not to compete with highly detailed specialised manufacturers (resulting in more expensive kits) who anyway does not posses the same distribution network and brand name is likely a good strategy. Kids and impulse buyers will not go to hannants or other specialised online shops so they don’t compete there anyway, while ”experts” (or rather nerds, but ok :p) will still buy Airfix if the quality is good enough - or even just for nostalgia. So far it has resulted in me buying their kits both for myself and for my kids. *) as a side note, the only local shop selling kits closed down recently. With their closure my kids unfortunately lost quite a bit of their interest in kits, since for them the touching and looking at boxes apparently did much to stir their curiosity! Out of site out of mind...
  38. 5 points
    Now that the SM.79 is finished, I have been able to turn my attention to the Roc. Three days strapped to the airbrush have seen all the main colours going on, following the Mother and father of all masking jobs! At some point or other, the entire airframe has been covered in masking tape and, despite thinking I had cleared it all away, I am still finding bits of it everywhere. Last night I found a bit in my bed and I just picked a bit off my little toe as I was typing these words! I have started applying the gloss varnish in preparation for decaling. She is a bit too tacky to move at the moment so I will put up some pictures later. At least she now stands a sporting chance of being ready for Telford, which should keep @corsaircorp happy, if not quiet: for now. Martian
  39. 5 points
    Airfix will announce a new model at Telford which will excite many and infuriates many. It will be in a scale that satisfies many and disappoints many. The choice of decals will dismay many and delight many. the release will be a subject that resonates with many and many will be indifferent to it. In other words, the model will be ........ oh damn, just woke up!
  40. 5 points
    Thanks to the 1/24 Fw190 suggestion, I’ve finally realised what bugs me about the “A Tamigawauardzda xxx makes no money for Airfix...” argument. It’s true, but neither does an Airfix one if the majority of people who want an xxx have already got the existing Tamigawauardzda one in their stash. For the argument to work, there has to be a substantial untapped demand that Airfix can reach with a combination of brand name and sales channels that the less well known and widely distributed brands don’t... and that’s not us experienced modellers. The subjects mostly need to sell to people who aren’t hobby obsessive like us. Which leads me to think that an exquisite 1/72 Mosquito, Hellcat and Hunter would work well... And since this IS fantasy-land, I’ll add my annual plea for a state of the art E Type in 1/24 with some clever slide moulding to eliminate a seam behind the doors! best, M.
  41. 5 points
    Thanks for the nods everyone. Work continues at a snails place as I've been busy helping to manage turnover of our Hurricane and associated events. Nonetheless, I did get a little bit done in the bomb bay: In the picture above, the fuel gallery, in grey, is now fully plumbed. The two lines entering the front of the unit serve the outer wing tanks. The fore and aft lines coming out of the top of the unit serve the starboard and port inner wing tanks, respectively, and the center one in the top comes from the fuselage tank and you can just see how I've inserted the other end into the tank nearest you. Behind the gallery can be seen the vent lines and associated relief valves. The line ends in a opening into the slipstream in the sidewall above the door hinge. Next came the addition of hydraulic lines and hoses to the forward door jacks: The hydraulics were a pain and I also need to do the aft jacks. A busy area and a slippery slope when detailing, by which I mean that it becomes hard to justify not doing everything. The port sidewall needs to be attended to as well but this area is limited to the flying control cables and a filler pipe for the long range fuel tank, which I won't be installing. The LR tank, had I chosen to install it, would have come with its own fuel and relief systems adding to complexity but also hiding much of the interior. A day later, I added a pulley and control cables for the ailerons, cables for rudder and elevator and a filler tube for the long range tank. Thanks for looking! Andy
  42. 5 points
  43. 4 points
    If you'd asked me at the age of 10 to design an aeroplane I would have drawn a massive dart that could do Mach 2+ and fire nuclear bombs out of its cat flap.... and I would have been 20 years too late. RA5C Vigilante. Bought for £8 on eBay. 50 year old tooling, half a set of Zeroxed instructions and some decals of uncertain provenance. I have to say that I'm quite pleased with the outcome. Had a bit of a battle with the white paint, but I'm glad I learnt from this before committing to a kit that cost three times the price (Dragon Sea Vixen FAW-2, should you ask).
  44. 4 points
    Wow... It's taken me a while... My love for the Avro Vulcan, and in particular the Vulcan B1a has driven me crazy. I finally got my hands on a set of plans for the Vulcan B1 in the right scale and a GWH Vulcan kit. I can finally build my favourite aircraft of all time, the Avro Vulcan B1a. With that, let the madness begin: I think I've done it right... It looks right to me... Apart from the wingtip @robvulcan this is entirely your fault
  45. 4 points
    Now that the Frog Squad GB has calmed down a bit i.e. Finished I can finally get a chance to do a bit on the Bloch Should be able to get some more paint on later cheers Pat
  46. 4 points
    Not a direct reply to the two posts above, but these have touched on something that we sometime forget it doesn't matter how good the competition is, if the competition can't sell their product then it's like they don't exist. Of course Tamiya and other manufacturers exist and they sell their products everywhere in the world but their distribution is not the same in every country and is not necessarily as good as that of someone else in a certain country. This is where the strength of well known mainstream manufacturers lies and why they can easily issue products that are not as good as their competition. Not Airfix, but an example comes from Revell, who a few years ago issued a brand new Spitfire Mk.II, followed by a Vb. These kits are much inferior in mould quality and buildability to the similar variants issued by Tamiya, The Mk.II is also inferior in many aspects to the Airfix kit while the Vb is more accurate but worse in all other aspects than Revell's own older kit of the same subject. And yet Revell issued the kit nonetheless. Why ? Because they know that they can sell these anyway ! Revell's distribution in their main markets is extremely strong and any "casual buyer" (that term again...) will likely find their kit and not Tamiya's or Airfix's. Not that Tamiya and Airfix are not present in those same markets, they are, but in a smaller number of outlets. So by this logic Airfix could easily issue another P-47 or Corsair or Hellcat even if there already are superior products on the market, as their kit of these subjects would likely be much more easily available to their potential customer in the British market (assuming this is Airfix main market).. of course if they feel that such a kit would be of interest to British buyers. The P-47 in particular is one subject I'd have probably done a long ago, as it's a very famous type that can be seen at many airshows and that can be proposed in very colourful markings including British ones. But I'm not the one who decides Airfix strategy, so they will have had their good reasons not to issue one (yet).
  47. 4 points
    Thanks Amo Aero Yeap, it is a small thing in 1/72. But not as small as the Eshelman Flounder (that's bigger than some of my other models):
  48. 4 points
    Thanks you guys. Richard: I've not worked with a bad landing gear yet until this one. I mean it wasn't too awful bad but it was a bit wobbly on her legs without the reinforcement. This morning saw the finish of the aerial antenna and I'm currently working on those painting those 2000 screw heads on the cockpit framing.
  49. 4 points
    Hi All! Good afternoon! Hi Hewy! Amazing details and paint work with that T-54, specially the wheels and the tracks. Still amazed that is 1/72!! Yesterday I finish my particular milestone ducting the wheel chassis! I've ordered the compressor and two airbrushes. Waiting for them... Looking forward to make some trials. Hope to have them this weekend. fingers crossed. This is an old pic from my first post (?) to explain that I "cheat" with the hose that is plugged to the Hydraulic Cylinder (The one that is not completed, or in progress on the pic). Putting those ones was dragging me a lot. I took the easy way to "plug" them somewhere near trying to cover the nozzles. With these two ones you CANNOT CHEAT! They are so exposed that you have to properly plug them at the end of the nozzles. The other ends can remain loose towards the hinge or apply some CA. The next two pics talk by themselves how to make those connections... (Apply a little CA to join again both insulated covers, otherwise when you'll try to plug the hose, the end might end detached from the metal wire. (related to Step 4th Post #8) And now a bunch of pics with all the ten sets completed! Please bear in mind that all these sets, pieces will change dramatically with the primer coat and paint. So scared of... We'll see. Oh! by the way, I obsessively annotate the time it takes me to make a single part of the kit (or the overall time I spent modelling). I'll tell you tomorrow how long it took me. Good night all! Have a nice Thursday! (The new Fridays, nowadays) Daniel
  50. 4 points
    The radiators do not fit well on the nacelles, so a grinder bit is used to provide the necessary clearance: Whilst some O/700 had normal exhausts, only extended, on this one the "direction" was reversed, and the ends bent upwards and outwards: Some parts are prepared for a painting session. I like to finish ancillaries beforehand when possible, so construction does not lag behind later on waiting to finish small parts:
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