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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/16/2019 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Hi again. I've just finished putting the final touches to this 2 year tweenie. This has been my first resin kit and it's been a bit of an experience, not all bad.....I mean, it's finished isn't it ! It's a three-footer, I had to do a bit of scratchbuilding and also raid the spares box for a couple of the decals. So, here's my interpretation of XR810 as it might have looked sometime in in the mid 90s. 810 was the first VC10 Major Servicing I worked on in '97. I hope you like it......I do. Cheers Gaz P.S. Come on Airfix, I've done my bit, it's your turn now. I'd still like to build ZA142 and ZA147. And finally....... can spot the VC10 ? If it quacks like a duck........
  2. 5 points
    From 13 years ago, another model of a vintage plane that precognized the future: Now, there you have an airliner. Almost an ocean liner, one could say. And, ladies and gentlemen, this was 1920. 32 passengers, mind you. Mister Vincent Burnelli developed a whole family of planes around the lifting body concept, -used much, much later in more contemporary machines. Its earlier interventions in the design field contributed to planes like the Lawson Airliner and the Continental KB-1, amazing creations on their own. Structural soundness, safety and many other qualities of the plane were sought after with the rational use of advanced design concepts. In a way, the “lifting body” is related to the flying wing, both searching for minimum drag, efficiency and structural advantages. Lifting bodies will appear much later, among other examples, in the NASA experimental planes that studied atmospheric re-entering vehicles. A similar line was pursued by French designers: De Monge (his De Monge 7.4 in 1924), Dyle-Bacalan (D.B. 70 around 1925) and Carpentier (C-1 of 1935). There is a wealth of material on the Net, so if you feel attracted to these types and concept do your homework and you will find many interesting stories and the planes and men that created them. For the purpose of this article, I would just say that this story starts in 1920, when Burnelli got associated with Mr. Remington (hence the “RB” denomination), and that there were two version of the plane, the RB-1 and the RB-2, but RB-1 got reincarnated at least once. Here we deal with RB-1's second life. You could have tons of fun trying to sort out which is which, as many of the photos on the Net are mislabelled, and some minor modifications were performed in the machines, even in the same versions. Here some clues: look at the wheels, vertical tail surfaces, engines, tapering –or not- of the aft fuselage and the protruding –or not- ailerons. And the best part as always is when sources contradict each other. The model: Boy, what a corrugated slab! It was love at first sight. A long haul enterprise, without doubt, proven by the fact that this model went on an off the building board for more than a year. After I reached the three hundred parts mark I decided that I was better off not counting them. Although it seems hard work, I can assure you that it is much worse than what it seems. All in all quite an adventure, including the hundreds of genuflections and push-ups performed to recover minute parts from the carpet, which rendered going to the gym redundant. And I’ll throw my gauntlet at the feet of the ones that dare to call it ugly.
  3. 4 points
    Bought this from a nice man in America. To make life with a vac form easier I got resin parts for the cockpit, wheel wells and exhausts. The canopy was well yellowed, but once put in place its hardly noticeable, and the "deckles" were quite serviceable for something nearly 30 years old. Half way through the build I took a long break and subsequently forgot which version I was making, so to the experts it will look wrong, but I think it looks like a lightning, so I'm happy with it. OK some photos. Hosted on FLICKR Hosted on FLICKR Hosted on FLICKR A bit of a disaster on the belly when I left it resting on some of that non slip rubbery stuff and it got stuck on the Alclad. But its right side up in the display cabinet so you can't see it. Hosted on FLICKR Hosted on FLICKR Alongside an Airfix 1/48 for comparison Hosted on FLICKR As an aside the man I bought it from included the original receipts and a hand written letter from Frank Brown dated 1992 which to anyone interested in the history of modelling and vac forms might find interesting. Cheers BB
  4. 4 points
    #23/2019 The sexy beast from the east is done. Hobby Boss kit built oob, only some stencils came from Hi-Decal because the kit decals aren´t the best. Camo painted with AK Real Color Air Supperiority Blue for the lighter blue. For the darker blue my dad mixed Tamiya XF-18 Medium Blue with XF-23 Light Blue and XF-2 White in approx. 4:1:1. The grey was done with Tamiya XF-19 Sky Grey. Exhaust area painted with Gunze H63 Mettalic Blue Green, H76 Burnt Iron and Tamiya X-13 Metallic Blue. Build thread here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235057810-guardian-of-the-east148-sukhoi-su-27-flanker-b-russian-airforce/ DSC_0001 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0016 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0017 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0018 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0019 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0020 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0021 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0022 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0023 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0024 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0025 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
  5. 3 points
    P-40M Warhawk "Ruth Marie", 90th FS, 80th FG, Moran, Assam, India, April 1944 I finished this on 9/21/2019. It is the Hobby Boss easy assembly kit. The P-40 was, for some reason, my favorite US plane when I was a kid. I don't know if it was the mystique of the Flying Tigers, or the fact that the first kit I finished by myself was a Revell snap-together P-40E. More recently I started learning about all the different P-40 variants and how to tell them apart and decided I'd like to do a kit of each of the "major" variants (no 'D' or 'G' models for me). About that snap-together... it had a skull on the front that was very dramatic, so I thought I'd make a new version of it and as a bonus, the decal sheet I found was for 'N's and 'M's (well, N-1's and N-5's, more on that later). There were only 2 P-40M kits readily available, this one and the Academy boxing, but looking at finished Academy models, it appeared to have some serious shape issues, so this kit it was! Hobby Boss easy assembly is a love/hate thing for me. They are inexpensive and often have very nice surface detail, but... the cockpits have little or sometimes no detail and there seems to always be one major flaw that need fixing to get it to look right. And, that was the case here too. There are lots of great photos, many close up, of the Burma Banshee P-40s so I was able to match the wear of the P-40s in a couple close up photos. Also, the Banshees flew P-40N-1s. A book I have said that the N-1 was basically an 'M' model with 2 wing guns removed and a lighter landing gear (which somewhere I read was a P-51 gear, but I can't confirm that). This book said that in the field they would re-install the two guns in the wing, and put the older, heavier and more robust gear on, which effectively brought it back to the 'M' standard. So I think I'm justified in calling this an 'M'. WIP is here Finishing: Seams filled with CA (superglue) Paints: Mr. Surfacer 1500 Black primer > Mr. Color 303 (green)/Testors Olive Drab/Mr. Color 22 (Brown) marbled on top / Mr. Color FS36270 marbled on bottom > Testors Model Master Olive Green (Top) / Testors white/black mixed to match FS36270 (bottom) > Alclad Aqua Gloss clear coat > Decals > Testors dull coat for sealing in the decals > Testors zinc chromate for the wheel wells > Decanted Tamiya Silver Leaf spray for the landing gears > Tamiya acrylic NATO Black for the tires > Testors Chrome silver for paint chipping > Tamiya Royal Blue for spinner Decals: Rising Decals RD 72084 "The Burma Banshees Pt. II" Weathering/Wear: Oil wash on the landing gears, thinned watercolor and Tamiya pastels for various dirt and oil streaks, 0.2 mm Pencil for panel lines, sun fading by dot filtering with oil paints The grill behind the spinner is very prominent and the molding for it was shallow and wouldn't take wash well. The holes in the grill are very prominent, and this grill is the defining feature that AFAIK is the only way to tell a 'M' model from a late model 'K', so I had to paint the holes on. About the big fix I had to make in the Hobby Boss kit: They made an insert for the canopy behind the cockpit so they could make an 'N' or 'M' just by swapping out inserts. Problem is, it didn't fit well at all: I thought I'd sand the bottom of it to drop it down, but luckily I dry-fit it first and found that the canopy would hold it in place, so any sanding on the bottom would just make a bigger gap. So I had to sand down from the top. I cut off the antenna mast (to be reattached later) and sanded away. then glued it in, filled the gaps and filled/rescribed the mis-matched panel lines. Build notes: The sun fading came out pretty subtle, so I still have some to learn about that technique, especially how the dull coat changes it. So I'll be doing more experimenting! I was at the hobby store yesterday, and on a whim bought Testors burnt iron metallizer for the exhaust. It came out looking just as good as the more cumbersome methods I've been using, so I may be using more of it in the future This was the first time I used a 0.2 mm mechanical pencil to go over the panel lines. Where the panel lines were deep enough, it was really easy to run the pencil lead through them, where they were more shallow, I used 3 layers of Tamiya masking tape stacked on each other as a guide. The nice thing about the pencil is any goofs can be removed with the eraser. I find this to be an easier and more reliable method for panel lines than a wash. For fun, this was the first kit I finished by myself and inspired this build: Thanks for looking! Questions, comments and constructive criticism always welcome!
  6. 3 points
    What with Dapol and eBay, you can still get a fair range of the old Kitmaster kits to work on: These took about six months and not more than £100 all in to acquire on the 'bay, though some were built-ups for restoration and repainting rather than unbuilt kits. There are at least another eight ex-Kitmaster/Airfix that have ended up with Dapol (BoB, Evening Star, Moghul, City of Truro, Schools Class "Harrow", Prairie Tank, 0-4-0 Saddle Tank and Deltic) and are readily available for around £7-8 new... These all ended up on our CBK SIG display at SMW in 2015: I think you could easily spend a couple of years modelling nothing but OO/HO railway kits with what's available today. The building and painting is enjoyable (though "lining" is a monumental pain), but the _weathering_ is brilliant fun! best, M.
  7. 2 points
    The model I'm currently working on is Airfix' 1/72 Lancaster B.I which I will be building as W4308 UV-C which was lost on January 23rd 1943. Lancaster W4308 took off from RAF Breighton at 1714 hours on 23 January 1943 to attack Dusseldorf, Germany. Bomb load was 1 x 4000lb bomb and 1080 x 4lb incendiaries. The aircraft failed to return to base from the mission. Six aircraft from the Squadron took part in the raid. Crew: RAF Sqn Ldr Osborn, R B DSO, DFC, Captain (Pilot) RAAF 403620 FO Longworth, S U C (Navigator) RAAF 411084 Sgt Conlon, J V (Bomb Aimer) RAAF 406441 Sgt Martin, P A (Wireless Operator Air Gunner) RAAF 400391 PO Methven, S C (Air Gunner) RAAF 401812 Sgt Brown, R A (Air Gunner) Sqn Ldr Osborn, Flt Sgt Longworth, Sgt Martin, and Sgt Brown became POWs. In a statement by Sqn Ldr Osborn he reported: The aircraft was attacked by an ME110 just over the coast on the way home. I decided to attempt a belly landing with only the right arm, the left upper arm had been injured by a cannon shell. Conlon baled out and probably went into the sea. Methven was dead in the plane and Brown was badly injured in the right leg. The aircraft crash landed very close to the village where I grew up. Its wreckage was moved from the field it landed in and was stored for a while in church parking lot behind the house I grew up in. For a long time, the only photos I knew that existed were a couple of the quality posted above. Then this year I found the following images in The Defense of the Reich: Hitler's Nightfighter Planes and Pilots by Holger Nauroth and Werner Held (translated from Die Deutsche Nagdjagd) from 1982. It includes a photo of the nose art the aircraft carried: My favourite thing is thinking about model kits and for a long time I was trying to decide which kit to use for this build: Hasegawa, Revell, or Airfix. So why did I go with Airfix? Hasegawa is the most expensive of the three options. It has the least amount of cockpit detail but the overall shape is accurate. Its only serious flaw is that the cockpit escape hatch is in the wrong place. Rumour has it there's something wrong with how the outer nacelles are attached to the wings but I've never been able to tell that problem. Revell is the cheapest option. The cockpit detail is very nice but there are some shape issues: there is not enough dihedral, the fuselage escape hatches are in the wrong location, the wheels lack detail, and the radiators are the wrong kind for typical wartime Lancasters. What Revell and Hasegawa have in common is their wonderfully subtle (if perhaps not entirely accurat) surface detail. That brings me to my main concern with Airfix - the surface detail is comparatively very heavy. And that had put me off from starting it. The fuselage windows are a little bigger as well than the competition but I can live with that. But my main concern was doing something about those heavy panel lines. I also needed to fill some mold marks - although the molding of this kit is nicer than the Mk.II that I built in 2014. Mold marks above the flap area can be seen here: My 'fix' for the surface detail was two-fold. First of all, I scribed additional panel lines in the kit parts. Airfix seems to have a bit on artitrary choice for which panel lines to show and which to leave off. So I added some lines and filler hatches to the main surfaces of the wing and the fuselage. Secondly, I filled all the panel lines with Mr Surfacer and Tippex. After sanding, I primed the parts with Tamiya primer from a spray can. In hindsight, it would have been easier to simply prime these parts with several coats of Tamiya primer - I tried this on some other components and that reduced the depth and width of the existing panel lines considerably; next time I have to reduce panel lines I'm just going to do that. What's next? I'm going to be starting with the wings. I have a cunning plan and I'm deviating from the suggested build sequence by installing the landing gear legs first, and to then add the nacelles. I think that ought to work and that might prevent those parts that cover the nacelle/fuselage joints on top from fitting poorly. I've gone ahead and glued those into place. I'm also cutting off the wing spars so that I can leave off the wings and install them later. Also, my wife and I are expecting the birth of our first child in less than a month so it's going to be very interesting to see how much work I can get done after that - not expecting to be able to do a whole lot, certainly not at first. But I've got to do something in the mean time so I might as well do this Thanks for looking!
  8. 2 points
    Hi Pals, here come my first vignette, result of Pz.IV GB, a Stug IV 1/35 Italeri, with my first figures too (Dragon), and some bits of equipment (Tamiya and Italeri). Thanks for watch and commet. Cheers mates
  9. 2 points
    Hi Pals, I finish working with this model. I have seen that it is a fairly simple kit, without major problems for assembly, with very good instructions. The tracks, are the originals, which although vinyl and not the best option, are "Tamiya", which is always a guarantee of quality, and have been very easy to assemble (they are wide and with 4 points of union instead of 2). I have chosen not to overload with extra equipment the vehicle, because it is in question to choose between there is a lot of equipment or lose the painting / detailed work underneath (detail cast, weathering ...). I have improved as much as possible, without complicating myself too much, some details of the kit, such as crystals for the periscopes, and the knobs of the boxes of spare parts, that I had spare in my box of pieces ... Still, I added something extra besides what the kit brings, crates boxes, ammo boxes, backpack, several, and wire roll. Although this is an old kit, modestly I think you could still get a good result, (I am reasonably happy with it), I have chosen to make the Marine version in Vietnam. I thank you all the fellows of the forum who have accompanied me in the assembly process and encouraged me with their comments to improve / continue. I include a link to the WIP section, in case someone is interested in seeing the post. Some shots details... And a bit of information... And I add some photos that I found in Google, very appropriate IHMO I think, of course only for information and with all rights for its legitimate authors. This is in the assault of Hue ... Thx to all for watch and comment, cheers mates
  10. 2 points
    Hi all, This is my attempt at Tamiya's kit of the GMC deuce and a half. Dating from 1997, I found the moulding and fit to be excellent - a good choice for my first vehicle kit in this scale. I also bought Tamiya's accessory set 231 to go with it, this having the 0.5" Browning mount over the cab area plus a few other bits and bobs. The kit was built out of the box(es) apart from the cable for the winch. I also used the kit to try out weathering techniques and learnt a lot from a fellow modeller who showed me the oil dot technique, the use of pigments for dust and mud effects and gave me some links to helpful videos on YouTube, so many thanks to him. Thank you for looking, Pat
  11. 2 points
    Bandai's 1/72 Incom Corporation T-65 X-wing space superiority fighter (1977): Cheers W-D
  12. 2 points
    GWH 1/48 early MiG-29 with AM: Eduard PE Cockpit & Brassin Wheels I really enjoyed this kit, I'm not an expert but it went together really nicely with only the engine nacelles a pain to fit (mainly down to my fault not the kits) (excuse the canopy gap - I left the canopy lose so I can remove it to show off the cockpit) Thanks for all the goodness along the way to those that commented Particularly Craig @modelling minion and Serge @Aardvark for their never-ending invaluable support, good vibes and advice (what nice men ) Hope you like it, its a really long way from perfect but I enjoyed the build and particularly the company cheers gentlemen it's been a pleasure and inspiring to see so many awesome projects in the GB. build thread here is here for ref:
  13. 2 points
    Bob is going to need a hand to push start this one....
  14. 2 points
    Putting the turrets together & adding some detail. Maybe some priming tomorrow!
  15. 2 points
    Going with the box art of Ltn. Wilhelm Leusch. Thanks all. Finished the day off with my first wood propeller and lengthening of the right side wing strut because of the open pannel.
  16. 1 point
    As @Terry1954 asked I'm starting another WIP this time I'm planning on doing a reprosentation of Bovington Tank Museum's running fleet Canadian M113 APC. This won't be detailed to the level of the M113 being built on this forum by Dan( @Dads203) It is another of the museum's vehicles that I have had the privilage to drive so probably won't have too many of the hatches open but I may change my mind who knows!. I'm going to use the old Tamiya M113 as the basis and have also got the Eduard photo etch set to work with, anyway here is the kit box art and two of the three photo etch frets, I'm not going to bother with sprue shots as I'm preety sure Dan has already covered them. Work will start soon thanks for stopping by Roger
  17. 1 point
    AMK new tooling, full speed ahead on this project but basically straight out-of-the-box. ∙ AMK #88007 F-14D Super Tomcat ∙ Master AM-48-007 F-14 Alfa probe & Angle Of Attack probe High way to the Danger Zone. I feed the need. I am building a F-14D of US Navy BuAerNo. 164600/NK100 CAG of VF-31 Tomcatters, USS Abraham Lincoln CVN-72, November 1997. Received the kit direct from AMK warehouse on last Friday. After few hours of test-fitting, all I wanted to tell y'all is: IMPRESSIVE fitting!! Some parts are like snap-fit and of course some parts you need to tape it during test-fit. No moulding lines on the air intake and fuselage so you'll save a lot of time on sanding. The engine section is awesome, fitting between nose & fuselage are great. Exhaust nozzles: Come with open & close option. You need to put 5 parts together for Open-nozzle but you don't need to do anything for the close one, just cut them out from sprue and install on the housing. Upper fuselage: Moulded in 1-piece and AMK has reserved a small card there for you to install the tailfins with ease. Wing gloves: Please use the wing gloves which labelled R2 & L2, yes the fitting is nice as hell too. Engine: The engine came in 6 parts which including intake fan, turbine, mixer and the engine body. The fitting is very precise, don't even need to glue those fan & turbine to fit them in except the engine body. There is a small joint between fuselage and engine - something like box joint, very accurate and stable.' By the way I've photographed the sprues and etc, you can check my Facebook album out if you want to see them, they're too much to upload but I will show some of them here: Slide moulding nose: I will show some W.I.P. next.
  18. 1 point
    F-84E Thunderjet | Hobby Boss | 1/72 United States -- 182nd Fighter Squadron, 136th Fighter Bomber Group -- Lt. R. Lee, Pilot March 1952 Finished this one on November 30th, 2018. I had a wonderful set of Aeromaster Decals "Thunderjets over Korea" that I'd already used for my Heller 1/72 F-84G "Four Queens". I really liked one of the other aircraft on the sheet, and found the Hobby Boss kit for under $10 at the LHS, so I decided to give it a go! Work in progress is here. I used this as a way to try out another NMF method I found a video of on You Tube (Spencer Pollard's "Modeller's workshop 12: Natural Metal Made Easy!" and "Modeller's Workshop 14: Natural Metal - Final Weathering"), which worked great. Finishing: Seams filled with CA (superglue), wing root seams filled with Apoxie Sculpt epoxy putty. Paints: no primer > Tamiya AS12 Bare Metal Silver (decanted into airbrush) > 1 part Mr. Color C339 Engine gray to 10 parts Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal silver for wing center panels and the back of the fuselage > Mr. Color Super Stainless for Panels just under and just behind the cockpit > thinned Tamiya smoke for shading > Testor's Metallizer sealer Decals: Kit decals for stencils, Aeromaster Decals "Thunderjets over Korea, Pt. II" (72-170) Photographing NMF aircraft is a pain, as we all know. The pictures don't seem to do the subtle panel differences justice. To the eye, in real life, they look very realistic. The following picture was the best I could do to capture it. Build Notes This was a great kit to put together, except for one bad seam, which was easily and quickly fixed. The surface detail is great! The rear landing gears and wheel wells have great detail, but the nose gear wheel well is lacking (which is probably an artifact of how they cast the fuselage as one piece). The cockpit detail is just OK, and the canopy is a bit cloudy, which was good in my case, because the cockpit wasn't up to my usual standards as it was really difficult to paint down in the tub. The decanted AS12 worked great as a NMF -- it looks realistic and is pretty tough stuff. No masking problems with it. My painting tests show it is nearly identical looking to Alclad's Aluminum. I can't see any advantage to this over Alclad except that it is much cheaper per ounce. It may be a little more durable too. The Aeromaster decals were top quality. Hope you enjoy -- thanks for looking! As always, comments, questions and constructive criticism are welcome!
  19. 1 point
    Here is my Harrier T.52 ZA250/G-VTOL, Paris Airshow 1979, built from the Sword kit with a Master pitot, painted with Hataka and Lifecolour acrylics and finished with decals from Vingtor set 72-118 Harrier Test and Demonstration Aircraft #3. The kit was a bit of a challenge, the fit of some parts was poor, particularly the intake trunking and front cockpit instrument shroud. There were gaps that needed shims and steps, especially behind the cockpit. The front instrument shroud provided by sword is way too big and I ended up replacing it with a part fashioned from a cut down drop tank half. I opened up the auxiliary intake doors, in future I would recommend replacing these parts with Freightdog resin ones. The Vingtor decals are nice and thin and generally went on well, conforming over curves and bumps, although delicate. I had some small of the smaller stencils break up, possibly as I had the water too warm. Frustratingly, one of the fuselage roundels was misprinted without the white segment, and I managed to pull of part of the serial when handling and needed to touch up by hand. Anyway, here it is, a bit rough in places but good enough for my cabinet: Thanks for looking. AW
  20. 1 point
    Hi! This little bust (the size of my thumb) has been sitting on my desk for a couple of years, just waiting for a catastrophy to happen. Guess it was time I finished it. I don't know who makes (made?) it. Bought cheaply on ebay four years ago. Hope you like it. Ciao Iwik PS It's as big as my thumb...
  21. 1 point
    Decals nearly done... had another mild catastrophe: lazy me decided to use the gray decals for the swing area of the wings. And when the wings were eventually swung back (accidentally), the decals tore completely and it was a P.I.T.A. to remove. Thankfully, it was ultimately sorted, not without 1-2 hours lost correcting the error.
  22. 1 point
    Fuselage together and the wings are on. The builds gone together perfectly so far other than a bit of a lack of locating tabs for the fuselage halfs. Maybe I was too rushed in my approach but definately felt like Eduard could have done better here, I ended up with a small step on nearly all the joins. Cleaned up with some sanding and Mr Surfacer. One area that did fit exceptionally well was the main wing to the fuselage near perfect join. And the cockpit instrument panel and coaming are a perfect fit, not even going to bother with any cement.
  23. 1 point
    More of what Johnny?? Thanks anyway! Sorry. I meant more of the weathering, then I re read and you said you removed it. even still she’s looking fabulous. Nice landing gear reconstruct too. Fingers crossed for strength. johnny.
  24. 1 point
    I just went back to the start and did a catch up. Hugely impressive precision work. It obviously needs truckloads of patience and a good pair of tweezers. A couple of questions, in post 37 (I think) you wrote..."the batted F1-engines from LVM Studios I planned to use". I'm not familiar with the term 'Batted'. Could you please explain? Also, in what way are these better than the Dragon engines? I need some 1/72nd engines for a Sci fi build and am curious. Thanks, Pete
  25. 1 point
    Hi guys have been planning on building this since I bought some great church windows but could not find a 88 mm gun in my scale anywhere, in the end I bought Zvezda 88 kit and had a some hasagawa wheels from a earlier conversion (not great but with a bit of extra work not bad) The church I built from foam sheet and had to build a front and back to sandwich the windows .The virgin mary was difficult to find in the size I wanted also very expensive for a two inch figure, the figs are Ceaser.
  26. 1 point
    Hello everyone... I was finally able to get the bulk of the fuselage glued today. I had to wait till i could dip the rear canopy. As well as mount both the canopy and the cockpit and wing. Here is where this is sitting right now waiting for glue to dry . looking at this photo I want to get a 1/72 X-wing and pose the 3 in flight formation now. The engine intakes will remain black as the only detail in them is 4 pour stubs from the molding process. Sadly my 1/144th bandai has fan blades at least ? Questions, comments, and or thoughts ? Dennis
  27. 1 point
    My last work, also has passed some years of starting work on it. Second prototype of Polish reconnaissance and bombing aircraft PZL 46 Sum. History and technical information: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PZL.46_Sum
  28. 1 point
    Just a quick update to let you know this is still plodding along. Progress has been made, it's just been slow as there are a LOT of stencils to apply! They're now all done.... and as I have a late start tomorrow (6pm) I should be able to finish the decaling! Thanks for looking in, Ian
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    I have rigged many WW1 aircraft in my time (and will do so again!) Not to worry Brian...luckily it is a DVII! The only rigging on the outside would be the very tiny pieces of wire connecting the control horns to the internal pulleys inside the wing and similar pieces for the rudder and stabilizers. I used small bits of stretched sprue for this. The access points are marked in moulding on the plastic. I am pretty sure they are even visible through the decal as long as they have settled properly. The trick with this kit would be the rib tapes on the wings, wing edges, ailerons,...etc...maddening and took me two days, i.e. 48 hours to do it. My next Eduard Fokker will have Avia Lozenge. Much better.
  31. 1 point
    Wow, go away for the weekend and I drop onto page 3, great news though as it suggests there’s a lot of modelling going on out there So a little progress on my Lanc, basically lots of black spray painting in preparation for a bit of building! and a bit of cheating on a potential display base One picture frame and a printed base, only problem being the small gap, as the picture frame is a little bigger than the printed base. May need to buy some grass to fill to the edge.
  32. 1 point
    Hello everyone... Well I’ve decided to go with closed wings, which will save a lot of work. I mocked it up today as you can see. As you can see there will be some big gaps to cover above and below the wings. Im planning on using some sheet plastic. That should both cover the gaps and add to the panel effect on the skin of the X-wing. I also filled the gaps along the wing joins and around the two forward weapons ports. I will still need to box in the Astro-mech Droids seating area, as there is to much exposed of the interior. Questions, comments and or thoughts ? Dennis
  33. 1 point
    Home straight now. I glued the headlamp brush guards from the Eduard M4 set using super glue gel. This had the bonus of filling in the holes that Tamiya give for gluing the plastic items in place. I added the sockets for the headlamp blanking plugs to the brush guards from plastic sprue. Something that I did previously, but forgot to mention was the two front track guards. I used the kit items instead of etched brass as I prefer to use plastic when I can. By scraping the leading edge, the appearance can be improved a lot. I added the fixing strips to the insides against the housing, from thin card. Something else that I used plastic for instead of etched brass were the attachment strips for the sand shields. I cut strips of 10thou card, 1.5mm wide and then drilled the fixing holes before gluing in place. The headlamps will be fitted after painting as they already have the lenses glued on. I had salvaged just about all of the stowage from the old build, so there was no reason not to use it on this one. It was a mixture of Accurate Armour, some items from the Tamiya kit and whatever I had to hand. Finally, and these are not fixed in place as they need to be removed for painting, the tracks. A lot of 1c’s were fitted with T48 rubber chevron tracks, and I found a set from a Dragon kit of T48’s with duckbills, from a M4(105mm) kit, but unfortunately, they appeared to be too long, so I reverted to the tracks in the Tamiya M4 kit. They are still pretty good. Once this was all in place, it was time to visit the paint shop. I’ll be back when I’ve something to show. Progress on this may slow down considerably, as the T54/55 GB starts next week and I have a Tiran 4 to build. Thanks for looking. John.
  34. 1 point
    thank you folks - you are too kind Hi Gary, yes they are in Scotland and can do bespoke PE if you have vector artwork in the format they work to - I guess an A4 sheet is about £50 GBP with delivery in the UK - here is the link.. Hi Gary - no I do them one by one using a home made PE spacing template in stainless steel - millions of them.. it can give you repetitive strain injury pretty quickly carrying on with the wing fillets - the borders are laid out with tape to rub soft metal into to get the shapes in 3D after translating the plan profiles.. ..taped down & burnishing.. ..the forwardmost fillet is one piece and very difficult - there was nothing for it but to have a go at bashing some ali into shape - itv soon kinked and creased and took a lot of work to get even half right... ..you can see here how the material just wouldn't do what was needed and split in one place - no matter I thought I could let in a piece here - this had any inner creases filed down to give it the best chance of truly flattening out when fixed.. ..still working it.. ..and finished & with fixings.. it's not perfect, but good enough for me.. ..same on the other side.. ..the PE arrived for the front vents so I could do this panel too - another tricky one.. ..first step was to add the vent structure and then make the front seam of the panel meet the nose intake casting... the rest of the panel lines could be dealt with with overlaps being removed.. ..with both panels & the vents added..,. the fasteners are added, but not yet all the riveting.. ..and the nose is pretty much coming together.. ..still lots to do despite it looking quite complete... TTFN Peter
  35. 1 point
    Pete Thank you very much for your post. As someone who has been regularly confused on the issue of the "correct colour" debate it is really helpful to have posts like yours. You may not claim to be an expert but input such as yours is invaluable. I have, after some thought, decided to go with my colour scheme and paint combo. It may be wrong but hey the reality is (a) it is unlikely anyone can prove it one way or another, (b) the kit manufacturer and the paint manufacturer suggest this is the correct colour and I think (possibly erroneously) that I should give some credence to their skills, and potentially most importantly (c) I build models because I enjoy it and enjoy the end result. If the colour is a slight hue off then of course I would prefer I was not in the wrong BUT it doesn't detract from the enjoyment factor....at least in my book. D
  36. 1 point
    started with the decals DSC_0007 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
  37. 1 point
    The mast has been really enjoyable to build so far. Considering my average skills, it has come together really well. There was a small issue where the bottom resin part was really unclear about which way to install the top mast. I ended up drilling a hole in the top, as it looks like the bottom is where the top of the tripod mast meet. The instructions could have been much clearer on this point. I also had to sand the top of the mast to get the top rings through, but aside from that it was lots of fun putting together. There is much more to go on this mast section, but at this stage I'm unsure just how much to assemble and fix in place, as I want to keep components separate where necessary to make painting easier. -For anyone building one of these in future, it's worth noting that finding the right pieces of brass can be troublesome, as many look alike and they are not numbered. However, the images of the front instruction page are 1/1 scale, so it is much easier to find the right one by lining it up with the image. -The ring holes that attach to the brass masts do not have detailed instruction on how to fold them, but upon close inspection they are pretty self explanatory. -All Photo Etch is numbered, and all the mast parts required are on the one fret, as are the parts for the AA guns, quad mounts etc. This does make finding the parts much easier and less time consuming. -Also, pay close attention to the resin part at the top of the mast (see above)
  38. 1 point
    Mine may be a little too prominent, but there you go I had quite a productive weekend again, nothing like spending a Saturday morning drilling, eh? I completed the hull yesterday, ended up having to fill some portholes at the bow that Tamiya seems to have put in the wrong place. Drilled out the lower row of portholes just above the torpedo bulge and added the small plate details on the bulge itself (again, I'd appreciate if someone helped me understand what these actually are). I noticed while doing this that the torpedo tube hatches, that I had so carefully made sure not to damage when removing the Repulse 6" armoured belt, are in fact removed on Renown in this time period and plated over... so I fixed that too. I also tried my hand at scribing the deck planking where there was none on the kit and is now visible due to not using Repulse's large hangars and sanding off the catapult. I've never done this before, so I tried to keep it light. Won't know for sure how good it looks until it's painted, but fortunately for me this is the boat storage area so it will be mostly covered up anyway. Today I finished the scratchbuilding on the central shelter deck and bridge. Main elements are the searchlight towers on the aft funnel, the hangar and the additional control position atop the chart house that I missed in the earlier bridge work. Some of the deckhouses around the funnels are recycled from the kit parts (but not necessarily placed where they would have been) rather than entirely scratch build. That leaves the major components of the model ready to paint! Since questions about build and paint order crop up very often with regards to ship models, I've included an on-off picture. This shows the full silhouette of the complete conversion work on the ship, and the extent of sub-assembly breakdown I would normally work with and be comfortable painting on a project like this.
  39. 1 point
    As you are probably aware the Red Arrows are on a North American tour right now and the closest I will probably ever get to them was seeing the tails of 3 of them on the ramp at Portland International Airport as my train pulled in for my flight home from training. a buddy of mine got to help them out while they were in Denver. Here is his wife’s account: Brad and two coworkers got to repair one of the RAF's Red Arrows' aircraft! One of the jets had it's breathing system break down, and, the place Brad works at, Steen Machining, is next to the Front Range Airport. So, they brought the part on over and asked for help. Brad wasn't there when they came in, but, he did get to work on and help fix the part. But, it's threaded in a British 'format', so, it took a bit of doing, and two parts, one that didn't work well and one that did. Thereby keeping the Red Arrows' current tour on schedule. Then one of the Bosses (Mrs. Steen) and Andy got to go to the airport and hang out while the Red Arrows did a few minutes worth of flying and testing out the repair. All went well When Andy & Mrs. Steen returned, Andy had for himself and Brad, as a thank you, a water bottle and a Commemorative Coin. Too cool! Brad responded that all he did was about 5 minutes of programming but I agree that is too cool. these are coming along nicely and I am sure you have been making lots of extra parts to share with your followers here so we can try and get close.
  40. 1 point
    There are suttle differences between U.S. and Canadian 113's, the one I want to replicate has external tanks on the rear of the hull which the kit does not have. This is a museum example so some kit that would be fitted to an operational example is missing also the kit depicts the earlier petrol engine version where as the one I am basing my model on has the Detroit Diesel 6V53 engine fitted so wether I attempt to scratch build an engine/gearbox unit or just seal up the engine bay I haven't yet decided. More work on this soon. Roger
  41. 1 point
    Back in 1967 Frog released a kit of the Shackleton MR3, and I eventually bought one about 10 years later. The kit was based on a Phase II aircraft operated by 206 Squadron RAF between June 63 and February 65, when it was taken in hand for upgrade to Phase III. Subsequently it was also fitted with Viper auxiliary jet engines in the outboard nacelles to assist in overload take offs, particularly in “hot and high” airfield conditions and it is in this later condition that I have modelled it. It is actually the same aircraft that Frog modelled – XF707, but by 1968 it was being operated by 42 Squadron based at St Mawgan in Cornwall. The bright afternoon sun has washed the colours out a bit, the grey is somewhat darker. I have added a resin Viper conversion set and changed the aerials etc to match what little info I have on Phase III machines. It has taken me well over 3 months and a lot of work, and there are a few things I could have done differently with hindsight, but I am satisfied with the result. The build has had its moments but overall I have enjoyed it. I hope it is of interest.
  42. 1 point
    Upper fuselage: Moulded in 1-piece and AMK has reserved a small card there for you to install the tailfins with ease. Wing gloves: The engine came in 6 parts which including intake fan, turbine, mixer and the engine body. The fitting is very precise, don't even need to glue those fan & turbine to fit them in except the engine body. There is a small joint between the fuselage and engine - something like box joint, very accurate and stable. They provided 3 wing options for you. I go for Open-wing, because I think it's awesome. Split dorsal and ventral air brakes. Ventral air brakes. Inflatable airbags...two options - one for open-wing and one for swept-wing. Air Intake: You can choose from 3 different ramp options for the air intake. 5 parts to build an intake. Some intake photos: Thank you for reading. Next post will be something about wings.
  43. 1 point
    Nothing not to like here Roger, looking forward to seeing this come together mate
  44. 1 point
    OK, coffee`d up, plus a fag it`s back to posting. The U/C bays are a little soft on detail. So I removed most of what was there and started to highlight. Building up the boxes with some strip plastic and a piece of cotton bud stem. I didn`t like this, it looked horrid, so after several attempts I come up with this. I did the piping first. Then added the ribs. I glued cut up pieces of strip in-between the pipe work 0.5 mm. The pies were 0.5 mm too, the longer strips of 0.5 mm over the top of them to give the look of the pipes running through the ribs. I was happy with that. Next the walls. And fitted. I did the same to the other side and then gave them a coat of primer.
  45. 1 point
    At last I've managed to get the photos sorted, so a progress update........ The engine is coming along. These are the air boxes. I wanted to try and replicate some kind of jubilee clips and after a lot of messing about ended up with this. Quite simply some very thinly cut masking tape with the end of a phot etched cable tie glued on Next is the main assembly with the cooling fan. I wanted to have a go at replicating the glass fibre effect so followed some advice on here and used some net curtain melted into place with liquid glue. Messy, but it is reasonably effective. A wash of Tamiya Smoke was applied over the top. You can also see the photo etched cable ties in place. Most of this will be hidden by the air boxes and buried in the engine bay anyway! And the most up to date photo of the engine/transmission below is the assembly with fan belts and air boxes attached. The fuel injection pump is attached but the leads are yet to go in. All in all this has been a very complex build so far, but the completion of the engine,transmission and suspension is nearly done. I'm going to add a few extra hoses and cables for good measure Finally, the fuel tank, which again was subjected to the net curtain method of fibre-glassing. Not yet painted and various parts yet to be added. Needs a bot of tidying up first.
  46. 1 point
    Afternoon folk's,Italeri's Aermacchi in RAAF Roulette's scheme.
  47. 1 point
    20 years without a new top of the line F-14 and now we have Fine Molds, GWH, and Academy in short order. This is the modelling equivalent of waiting half an hour for the bus only to have 3 arrive at the same time
  48. 1 point
    a bit bland at the moment but I have something special in store for her
  49. 1 point
    yeehaa the chain on, its been dry fitted and all seems fine so a little mig-ammo grime will seal the deal with that little model in it's own right. Had to file away at the front sprocket but no big deal(having said that I'm a toolmaker and have small drills and files everywhere, until I want the 1 I want lol) she is really coming on now and becoming my favourite build
  50. 1 point
    Having read all the discussions regarding this kit, I only have one thing to say. Can I have mine now please?!?!?
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