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Here is my Revell Beaufighter. Two years in the making and finally in the cabinet. There were lots of additions, some scratchbuilt others from aftermarket sources. I it a great kit and and has a great presence amongst it's contemporaries.

Vertol Hkp 4B 1 Helicopter Division, Swedish Navy, 1986 If anyone reading this was at the 1986 Middle Wallop air show, as I was, I’m sure you will remember these Swedish helicopters as stars of the show and rare beasts indeed in the UK. It sometimes takes a while for all the elements to come together to built a model and for me it was the recent availability of the Swedish camo colours from Hataka that completed the set. I have had the ‘Flying Colours / Aerodecals’ sheet for a long long time, kept in the equally old Hobbycraft Vertol 107 kit box waiting to go. If you like masking, then this is the model for you. If you don’t, sheer perseverance will get you there in the end – or at least that’s how it was for me. I thought the rotor blade camo might be the easy bit, but having to do it all 6 times extended the timescale beyond what I wanted – you can only do so much masking at a time. The Hataka paints airbrushed beautifully and I would recommend them. Next time though I think I would spray the two greens and hand brush the brown and black to keep masking to a reasonable level.

--I'm begging you,come home pls ! We all miss you! My new work, I hope you like it😁

Something with a Polish accent this time. F-105D Polish Glider Set: Trumpeter 1:32 scale, model made as always straight from the box. The model is not simple to build.

There's something about multi-engine pusher aircraft and counter-rotating props that stimulates my fancy. And if it's a flying wing, too, it's darn near irresistible! I finished this build in five weeks, which for me is super-fast (my B-58 Hustler took three months), and just in time for this weekend's local show & contest. The WIP can be found here: Significant changes/additions to the Italeri kit: Opened up and deepened the leading edge engine air inlets Added warm air exhaust outlets on the wing trailing edge Added leading edge slots near the wing tips Added gun barrels to all turrets (including the tail "stinger") Added interior details (what little can be seen) Added belly crew access hatch Markings are for a hypothetical in-service production aircraft ca. 1949 NMF created using AK Interactive Xtreme Metal paints On to the pics! Belly turret and crew access hatch: Turbosupercharger exhausts and exhaust stains: Interior details added (pardon the dust): Rear gunner's position and periscope sight: Leading edge engine air inlets: Engine warm air outlets: Leading edge wingtip slots: She's a big aircraft! Thanks for looking! -Bill

Hello Here is one of my last builds with this Blohm und Voss BV-155 V1. This high altitude prototype fighter first flew on February, 8th 1945. During the following months this prototype flew twice before the end of war. The 1/72 Special Hobby kit is easy to build and I added little bits inside the cockpit from pictures I took of the BV 155 V2 in the NASM fifteen years ago. Decals are from the box except the fuselage cross which I supposed was with dark green inside instead of black. Paint colors are mainly from the Gunze Acqueous range. Patrick

my second try at a Hobby Boss Messerschmitt and a link to some more: https://photos.app.goo.gl/8mthQRy4vPe5r6ow7

I've officially finished this build of (mainly) Revell's Spitfire I/II kit as a Spitfire Vb Trop ER676. The model is mostly Revell parts, but back to front on the exterior I used the following items for the conversion: propeller and spinner were from leftover Hasegawa Spitfire V bits that were living in my spares box; the Vokes filter is from the Hobby Boss mk V kit; the exhausts are from Quickboost; the cannons are from Master; the tires are from Eduard Brassin; the bumps on the cowl and the wings are from Real Models; the pilot access door from Barracuda Studios; on the bottom of the centre wing are hooks for the external fuel tank leftover from a Tamiya VIII; the windscreen is from Tamiya's VIII kit (leftover from when I built a PR.XI); the wing pitot is from the Hobby Boss mk V kit; and the tail wheel strut was also from the Hobby Boss mk V kit. Bits from the Eduard exterior set were used on the landing gear and the wheel wells. The cockpit has parts from the Revell kit, Barracuda Studios, Eduard, some bits from Hobby Boss, HGW seatbelts and the instruments panel is from Yahu. Build tread here: I tried Hataka acrylics with this build and although I like the colours I didn't like how they sprayed so I won't be using them again. Added some figures (one from Aerobonus - Aires - and another from Master Casters). Fuel tanks and boxes from Miniart. Anyway, on to the rest of the photos: Thanks for looking and as always comments and/or feedback is welcome. Elger

Hello all - this is my first Sci-fi / Star Wars model since returning to the hobby and certainly won't be the last - I had a great time putting this together, mainly due to the kit - it really is magnificent - doesn't need glue A nice quick build resulting from not having to fill any seams or close any joints. Click together and paint. The scheme came from an image I saw of an A-wing at a model show - I've since discovered that when Ralph McQuarrie first designed the concept for the A-wing, it sported these colours - however, these were changed to the familiar orange red due to the restrictions of bluescreen. In any case, I think it looks quite nice in blue. The only modification was sawing the canopy in half so I could have an open cockpit. I used some leftover decals from some old kits and added Eduard PE seatbelts - Painted with Tamiya acrylics with oils for weathering. The NMF was done with Vellejo Metal colour and Alclad. I did a WIP on this if you're interested: Thanks for looking in... Cheers John

It took me awhile, but here is finally the RFI for my Mossie. This is the old but good Tamiya kit, and I've adde True Details cockpit , Quickboost exhausts, Eduard paint masks and the rather nifty and very detail Aviaeology Outriders decal sheet, and Aviaelogy Mossie Stencils. This is HR116 flown by B flight of 333Sqn. It was mainly used for Outrider mission up and down the Norwegian coast to locate suitable prey for the rest of the Banff strike wing. I've chosen to paint it in a manner that still shows the underlying day fighter scheme. The idea was that a faint camo pattern underneath the Extra Dark Sea Grey would add a bit more interest. The WIP is here: Anyway, here are the pictures : It seems to me that my old camera is giving up the ghost, or I'm getting worse at taking photos. Both could be true off course! Comments and critique more than welcome. //Christer

Hello! This kit from Airfix in72 scale was made in 2018. In the construction of the model was used photo etching from Eduard. Painting with Tamiya paints and MrHobby. photo_1_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_2_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_3_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_4_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_5_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_6_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_7_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_8_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_9_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_10_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_11_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_12_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_13_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi photo_14_1523702007 by Andrew Zhi Pleasant viewing!

Well, at least I tried to make it into a C8 (not C4 as I wrote into the topic title).... And a Link to some more pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/G296ba76FZtkEY6q9

Please be kind. I’m firmly at the foot of this particular learning curve so am aware there is a lot could be improved. Sharing just in case folks might be interested rather than for critique I’ve been experimenting with laser cutting, 3D printing and digital design so decided to apply a bit of that to model making (in progress thread here Sharing the most recent output. Convair XP-92 in 1/72 scale. Parts modelled in Fusion 360, printed on a Creality Ender 3 in grey PLA. Assembled with isocyanate and painted with acrylics. Drawings thanks to @Space Ranger and decals kindly donated by @Pat C. Thank you both

Here's the Spitfire XIV & Flying Bomb - thanks to everyone for the input, decals, and @JOCKNEY & @Rabbit Leader for the hosting.

Now that I finally figured out how to post pictures, here are some more. It's the Italeri kit with a scratchbuild kitchen.... and a few more: https://photos.app.goo.gl/JUpGvFv9cEoW5K3t2

Decided to add some of the plumbing (some kind of pipes and vents) so I cut up some electric cable for the wire inside. Pulled a strand of wire gently between the jaws of two small pliers and it straightened nicely. Added some of the pipes and vents using the copper wire plus a handle on the door on the left (major Optivisor job). Having spent some time studying some of the photos I decided that the angled Louvre shouldn't be angled but should be aligned against the superstructure so cut it off and glued it upright: Still very unhappy with that Louvre. I reckoned that as soon as paint was involved the Louvre vents would just disappear under it. I was rifling moodily through my "Spares boxes" (which my wife hates so much) looking for inspiration when I came across an ammo belt I'd made from computer Hard Disk Drive cable for some machine gun or other. Had one of these "lightbulb" moments and hunted down some of the HDD cables I have stashed in the "spares boxes". Found the smallest one, cut a wee bit from it and CA'd a wee bit of micro strip to the side of it then glued it in place... Much better... MUCH better! Happy with this Louvre now! Some pics for an idea of size: And that's my eyesight done for tonight! Auld age doesn't come without its issues.

Hello everyone, I started to do the model at the beginning of 2016. Due to my personal reasons I gave it up for many months. I realize that this is workshop department and what I’m going to do is a monoloque, but I didn’t know where to present it. I spent a lot of time over a model and I think I’m only halfway there. Maybe someone will interest what I have done so far as I haven’t found any rewarding information in web about construction report of this model. If I return to work on this model I’ll post pictures from time to time. I have tried to choose the most interesting so far and there are still quite a lot of them. There are two sets of “Anigrand” available on the market: a resin and a copy of the resin "wacu" Combat Models with exactly the same errors I suppose “Anigrand” was used as a form. The most important modifications are: Too bulky and bad shapes front Badly plased and with bad shapes windows Badly placed wings, all to much forward Bad AOA wings, bad shapes and dimentions Correction of the hull cross section Correction of the wings Bad shapes of pylons and engines Bed arrangement of shin hassis Bed shape of vertical balancer No cockpit No hold The model has full lighting (with separation of light colours) It also requires dimensioning and embedding in correct places but the appearance resembles C-17. I had to make some assumptions about the plans because in practice there are no plans, and even there are, they have mistakes. Even Boeing made some sketches which are incorrect. Scaled planes that I used for dimensioning I have found in Model Book form 1999, all the rest are pictures. The model C-17 no 006 from 315 AW that I’m doing everyday is stationed in Charleston (South Carolina)

Sometimes a picture seeds an idea. I found this photo when I built my Marine Corsair, and it inspired me to try and model this gun carrier as a companion. Tamiya's 1/48 Jeep was the perfect kit for this task. I used the Eduard PE set and Verlinden wheels, and scratch-built a new radiator grille to represent the early front, and a wooden box to hold the .5 cal Browning M2 machine guns. The box can be removed to have the Jeep perform other duties if needed. The picture below demonstrates the difference between the early radiator grille guard (vehicle in the front) and the more common pressed sheet-metal face (rear). The Jeep's official designation is Willys-Overland Model MB or ¼ ton 4x4 truck. My model served in the Solomons in early 1943 with VMF-124, part of Marine Air Group 12. Six machine guns, each weighing some 84 lbs, and a crew of two are an adequate load for the dogged Jeep, which has in fact a maximum paylod of 800 lbs. I hope you like this digression from my usual aircraft modelling theme, and you are invited to visit more airfield vehicles here. Thanks for viewing - Michael References Pacific War Eagles in Original Color, Jeffrey Ethell / Warren Bodie, Front Royal, 1997 Jeeps 1941-45, Osprey New Vanguard 117, Steven J. Zaloga, Botley, 2005 Pre-Standardized Jeep, Walk Around 5711, David Doyle, Carrollton, 2008 Willys-Overland MB and Ford Model GPW Jeep Technical Manual, Washington, 1947, reprinted by PeriscopeFilm 2011

#21/2019 After a shiny Mexican T-Bolt, my dad now finished another shiny Mexican. He had to fight with some fit issues but in the end it turned out nice. He used the limited Eduard edition of the Accurate Miniatures kit with Aztec Decals. For the main colours he used MRP White Aluminium and Neutral Grey and an older selfmixed olive. EZ line for the antenna wires. Build thread here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235056655-aztec-warrior148-douglas-a-24-banshee-fuerza-aerea-mexicana/ DSC_0001 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0016 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0017 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0018 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0019 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0020 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr

Thought I'd give figure painting a go so here we are. DefCon Models Figure Bust 1/10th Scale Completed 23rd March 2019

Yet another field vehicle to pose with 1/72 models, this time a fuel truck. This resin kit by Classic Plane Diorama Resin comes with the parts bagged in three compartments. The cast is smart and refined, and removal of the parts from their pouring blocks easy. The detail is very good and goes to depict for example the bolts on the wheel hub, the undercarriage, the exhaust and many other minute things. The break-down is sensible and assembly proceeds without major hitches. My only two nitpickings: a) As it invariably happens with extremely delicate resin parts, a few came already bent and/or broken in the bags. The curse of delicate resin. b) The instructions are poorly printed, there is no parts map, exploded view or assembly guide. The photos are of bad quality, grainy, and barely serve as a guide. You may struggle to realize what goes where. Other than that, this kit can be built into an interesting and detail-filled model, useful as a complement for "ambience" airplane model photography. I could find no other photo of this specific vehicle on a long search through the Net. The manufacturer states that it can be safely assumed that the vehicle was used on airfields (as well as its other common fueling uses) from 1916, through the 20's and even 30's. I do not find any reason to disagree, having spent hours looking at airfield vehicles and seen all sorts of different arrangements, brands, and adaptations. It took me a couple hours to separate and clean the parts, an hour to assemble the main components, l/2 hour to paint and another 1/2 hour for final assembly. Decals were added in about 20 minutes. Any modeler with some reasonable experience can add this little darling to his or her airfield in a weekend provided some skill and dedication (and no house chores!). Decals by Arctic Decals, and thanks to my dear friend for the gift of the kit! It will be put to good photographic use. In this image I already assembled the main components: Adding a couple things that broke in transit: Addition of MV lenses to the front lights:

I always wanted that a/c, but the resin kit was too expensive for my taste, so when it came out as injection, I couldn't resist .... It is actually one of the few of my kits that are only partly painted with a brush: the alu is from a rattle can. (I am really no good with air brush) and a link with some extra pictures ... https://photos.app.goo.gl/r8qaG8MQxEzeXZmd6

So this one took WAAAY longer than it should have done. Major issues with my (then) choice of primer, Stynlrez - as soon as I started applying masking for the topcoats it all just peeled straight off the plastic. No adhesion what so ever, so a full strip off job (mostly with parcel tape!) and start again. OOB, except for some masking tape belts, Vallejo Model Air, Alclad primer. Enjoy 🙂

To start this build I had better start with a photo of all the parts, the majority are for hanging the missiles in the missile bay 6 x poorly represented Falcon missiles and the 6 x trapeze assembly the lowers them out of the bay for launch. The fit of the wings and fuselage is not bad, the fun begins with that missile bay.

Hello friends 👋 It has been some time. I hope that you are all well, or at the very least getting along fairly tolerably well. I have missed you all. I think maybe most of my followers/friends here know that my recent almost annual attempts to get back into modelling, into regular posts, have not worked. Short spell of normality: silence. The Internet is a place where one’s data and words are harvested and used in the strangest and most mystical ways, therefore I was previously reluctant to explain a lot. However, now a person involved in what is being referred to as the largest scandal in NHS history, I have waived my rights to privacy via my lawyers, for the class action. This was my choice. I’m no spring chicken any more, there aren’t that many of us old bleeders left (I’m not swearing here), so I feel fine writing about it here. Around 40 years ago, along with around 2500 or so other Haemophiliacs, other recipients of blood based products; I copped for a couple of very nasty infections. Ones that can kill and have killed many. I’m one of the U.K. ‘survivors’. I have been sort of ‘stuck’ in Australia. Following what was intended to be a far shorter trip; my health, related to my Haemophilia and liver infection declined and I ended up stuck here. There are far worse places to be stuck. I have been very kindly looked after, especially following my move to the lovely and friendly, very civilised city of Canberra. The capital city. A couple of years ago the U.K. government finally opened an inquiry into the way so many became infected by blood products. Shortly after that I asked a U.K. lawyer to represent me in the class action currently underway. Writing a witness statement spanning almost 40 years has been a harrowing and demanding task. At over 10,000 words, thanks to the help of my kind and supportive wife, to the help and support of some members of Britmodeller past and present, to a wonderful team of lawyers and a wonderful team of Haemophilia and liver nurses, doctors, support workers, counsellors and a superb GP, the support and help of my home MP in Argyll in Scotland and more; I am almost there. Also with many thanks to the support and kind words of an old academic friend of mine; Prof. Danny Dorling, currently of Oxford University. Reading thought provoking books by Danny and others, researching all kinds of things, from conflict history to geopolitics and social geography (I’m a geographer by the way, it probably shows 😉), Audiobooks, encouraging emails and text messages have kept me (fairly 😉 ) sane and determined. I went on a kind of targeted chemo/anti viral medication last November and that appeared to be the point at which my get up and go for model making, for most leisure pursuits, got up and went. However, it appears to be working 😊. Moreover, I saved enough Virgin Velocity points (92,000) make the journey to the U.K. in a few weeks time, at the end of October. This will be in time to attend a few days of Inquiry hearings in London, ponder whatever the B word throws at us on Haloween and to enjoy Guy Fawkes night too. In model making terms, I appear to have branched out into restoring old die cast and tin plate toys; trains, aeroplanes, automobiles, motorcycles and so on. My plastic modelling interests have really narrowed down to ‘Golden Age’ aviation and most things from the 1920’s to the 1950’s. I also appear to have acquired a piano, another guitar and number of classic cars in need of a little love and attention; all British or European, although my Australian built 1973 Ford Cortina Mk III with a 200 cubic inch engine and three speed manual gearbox doesn’t quite fit the classifications. The others are Audi, Rover, Mercedes. SAAB, Volvo, Peugeot, Simca and so on. I will need a few quite large shipping containers and an old barn to move this lot to the U.K., hopefully Scotland, and keep them safe, protected from the elements. Should anyone wish to meet up for a chat, cup of tea and so on; I will be in London the last week of October, Oxford the first week of November, then Birmingham, then Glasgow and Argyll. Please send a message if interested, it would be lovely to meet up with anyone. I hope to more carefully heed the advice of a friend from my last attempt, and slowly ease myself back into some model making and sharing of experiences; rejoining the good people on this great forum again. Have a great weekend TonyT

The absolutely ugly state of things, until sanding and priming comes:

Yep.... It's all in.... I haven't done that many Eduard kits but I have no complaints about this boxful so far! 😎

Hi guys. After getting the Modelsvit Mirage IIIE a few months ago I've decided to build it as a Swiss Mirage IIIS. For me this is the most interesting derivative of the Mirage III series and a very capable fighter when introduced with the combo of the Hughes Taran 18 radar and Aim-26B missile. What a job it must have been flying one of these beauties through the Swiss Alps! For some context a nice video can be found here if you have a few minutes to spare (the footage is great regardless if you speak French): https://notrehistoire.ch/entries/kOPYgj3dWyz We have the dedicated Kinetic kit in 1/48 scale, however after doing the sums on how much the build would cost me knowing I'd throw a lot of aftermarket at it, I decided I'd prefer to do my ultimate IIIS in 1/32 using the Revell/Italeri kit as basis as the work and expenditure would be similar (I already have numerous AM for it already anyways). That long term 1/32 build is for another day however when I have a new modelling area all set up. Until then I've decided to make a 1/72 version for now and I'll apply what I've learnt here to that build, particularly the NMF which I think will be done by Alclad (not sure yet). PJ productions has recently released a 1/72 Mirage IIIS/RS kit aimed at the later updated variants. A while ago I made a Mirage IIIRS using the original PJ conversion kit on the old Heller kit, to which I had the IIIS resin nose left over with the aim of doing something like this one day. There are various modifications that need to be done to produce an early IIIS from the IIIE, however not nearly as many as the upgraded later versions to which I think the new PJ kit would be the way to go in this scale. I have chosen the Modelsvit kit as the details are unbelievable in the scale, I think the most detailed kit I've had in my hands in 1/72, it's like a very good 1/48 or 1/32 kit hit with a shrink ray in many places. Also I quite like the much disputed rivet detail on the model, maybe under a camo scheme I agree it would look too much in 1/72, but for a NMF it could look very nice, well we will find out. I've got quite a bit of AM for this build too, Matterhorn Circle decals, Reskit Mirage IIIE exhaust (please ignore the paint mark on the box, that was me!), Barracuda Mk.4 seat, Reskit wheels, Master pitot, Maestro Aim-26B or HM-55 in Swiss service and the PJ resin IIIS nose. I know quite a bit but I thought what the heck, my build rate is so slow I just threw everything at it tbh wanting to build the best one I could. The rest of the IIIS conversion work will be scratch built. I would like to make an early example soon after delivery in the mid 60's in a QRA set up with pairs of live Aim-9Bs and Aim-26Bs and supersonic tanks. Maybe 'Geronimo' if I can find when the artwork was applied and is applicable in this period, does anybody know? First up was to remove the Doppler radar under the nose area, AFAIK the Taran radar could ground map also allowing all weather navigation. Modelsvit made this integral and hollow to the front fuselage pieces so after some careful cutting I then glued in some thick plasticard to then shape to the surface contours of the nose area, this is yet to be refined until I glue the halves together to get a nice symmetrical shape. The nose gear bay and door (not pictured) is being extended to take the longer modified IIIS nose leg/fork. I'm using dimensions taken from a real IIIS using an article I found online ages ago that doesn't seem to be around on the 'www' anymore, saves to plan ahead and save interesting articles via pdf for future use! After finding some good images of the underside of an early IIIS I began removing various antennae not present (still some to do) and opening up all the air scoops and drilling the cannon ports, More antennae removed from the fin. I've cut the rudder out in order to build the actuator linkage and displace it although it seems at rest it does look to usually be in the neutral position. Clear light also drilled/installed and blended in, bloody small job in this scale! The exhaust area will have to be thinned quite a bit to get the Reskit exhaust nozzle in which is no bad thing as it is quite thick and overscale imho here. After gluing the rear fuselage halves together I then attached the wings to get the best join I could before attaching the lower piece against the instructions. A black wash shows the join, not bad compared to what I have seen online on many other Mirage builds, this will be filled with Zap a Gap I think. Modelsvit seems to have made a lot of the joining parts not on panel lines which I think is quite a smart way to do it (except the front canopy unfortunately), for me it is easier to fill and eliminate a join opposed to doing the same then rescribing back the panel line on it as most manufactures do. I found I needed some plastic shims on the other side of the vertical fin join. Hopefully the pic also gives an idea of how fine the rivet detail is. Fuselage progress so far. I cut and installed clear lights on the wing tips that will be sprayed with Tamiya green/red clears when painting comes around. If it wasn't for the IIIS modifications I'm doing I think this would be a very quick model to assemble. Next up will be sorting out the gear bays and cockpit area which will need a new specific Swiss IIIS IP, quite different from the IIIE variant. Thanks for looking, David

My better half and I will be doing a west coast roadtrip in late September of this year. We'll be starting in San Diego which reminded me that I hadn't posted the shots I took in 2013 at the San Diego Air & Space Museum. The museum itself is good, fairly small and dark with quite a few replicas rather than real airframes, but still well worth a visit and it's right next to the San Diego Automotive Museum. Here are a few shots, I hope you enjoy them. Convair YF2Y-1 Sea Dart & Lockheed A-12 Blackbird by tony_inkster, on Flickr Lockheed A-12 Blackbird by tony_inkster, on Flickr IMG_6368 copy#1 by tony_inkster, on Flickr Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-17 by tony_inkster, on Flickr McDonnell Douglas F-4J/S Phantom II by tony_inkster, on Flickr Ford Trimotor 5-AT by tony_inkster, on Flickr McDonnell Douglas F-4J/S Phantom II by tony_inkster, on Flickr Boeing P-26 Peashooter (reproduction) by tony_inkster, on Flickr NYP-3 Spirit of St. Louis (flying replica) by tony_inkster, on Flickr

Hi everyone. Here's my last built, OOB except the canopy from Falcon. She's painted with Gunze as usual on me. Very difficult kit, many fitting troubles, moreover the tails zone and cannons bay. Anyway here's the result. I hope you like her. Thanks so much for seeing. Kindly regards from Tenerife, Canary Islands.

Dear modellers, On one of my many “searching “- travels on the internet , I found two interesting videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MkIS4O0DhlM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XjINqpcYo0 I liked this typical french truck, just a straightforward workhorse without frills, so I searched for more information, photographs and even found a good 3- view drawing all the necessery dimensions. It was also a good opportunity to improve my old school french.....😁 Anyhow two years ago this model came into being. d For the building report, please have a look here: https://modelbrouwers.nl/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=48541&sid=5011ccc08c7db0bf3ea3eace064eea1e I hope you like the photographs of this Camion ancien. With kind regards, JohnHaa

A good few years ago my step-son bought a grossly overpriced gaming mouse (and I don't mean a poker playing rodent). This was part of the packaging: It's made from 2.5mm thick, very rigid, clear plastic. That'll come in useful one day I thought. I have inherited the hoarding gene, for most of my life I've struggled against it, but this bit of packaging has survived every one of my frequent clear-out purges. IT'LL COME IN USEFUL ONE DAY. Friday was it's day, and I'm sooooo glad I didn't bung it because it's perfect. Together with a bright torch, it's my new light-box. The reason I needed a light-box is for cutting the paint masks. These are by far the most awkward masks I've done to date. I did the 'SHADO 1' lettering very slightly larger than it should be, but the height of the 'SHADO' bit is just less than 5mm and to do that, I needed all the help I can get. This shows the full set up – that's my magnifying light thingy hovering over the top. The paper table cloth is so that I'm not staring intently into a very bright LED bulb. Normally, I'd spray the top coat and use negative/reverse shape masks to spray the characters etc. at the end. For this job it was easier to cut the letters out rather than do it the usual way. After the primer, the red around the air-intake and the white for the markings was sprayed first, then the masks and tape for the lines was applied. Doing it this way also involves a lot less masking. The top colour is sprayed and then the agonising wait before the masks can be ripped off, to see how it's worked. Don't you love it when a plan works even better than you expect it to? Obviously I'm showing you this side because the other side wasn't as good. The other side and the red line did require a touch-up, but I believe that's still legal. (The top did need a little light rub-down with 1000 grit) I've kept the weathering to a minimum because there are plenty of photos of the vehicles emerging for what is obviously the SHADO-wash facility. The running gear and the tracks had a touch of pin was. There seems to be a lot of backlash against pin/panel washes these days, but I like them so there! My model, my rules. It looked too boring, lifeless and too clean without it. Before - dull dull dull: After - nice and grubby: Finally it's come to the bit we've all been looking forward to (or is it just me?) fitting the tracks and, DISASTER!!!!! Not really. It was an easy fix, I just glued the break underneath one of the wheels. But it does show that the tracks aren't as flexible as I originally hoped they would be. After adjusting the track to the correct length, the join was glued under one wheel to start with. If you remember I offset the join to more than one 'link' so that's what the reverse tweezers are holding. When the first one was dry, the track was glued to the tops and bottoms of each wheel. The next time you'll see this is when I bung it in the RFI bit. I just need to do a simple base and one other thing before then so hopefully over the weekend at some point. Thanks for having a look and liking, commenting etc.

Spent a bit of time working on the base. The blur base is from a photo I took during a flight in one the helicopter I used to look after. I used Paintshop pro to blur it and then had it printed out on A3 card at the local printer. I then glued it to some core flute board. Probably could have made it a bit bigger but it'll do The model paintwork has been finished

Morning folks this morning's session was devoted to this and the Phantom.The plastic is like none I've dealt with before very brittle and needs to be left at least a day to dry when glued but we're getting there.Wings cleaned up and sanded and booms also,it must have been in the mold process but big chunks of plastic were missing from all four halves where the tail curves round to the boom. all filled and drying.

Wait until they start talking about ten bob notes and half a crown....😉

Here's a drawing that may help: Mike Herrell is the creator of the Execuform line of vac-form kits and a former Convair employee. Here's his 440 drawing, plus 340 nacelle, for comparison:

Before I get swamped by the expected weekend completion rush, here's a quick update to correct things a bit. These GB's always unearth a plastic classic gem or two, so lets show our appreciation to @CliffB and his excellent Short Sealand. That's just beautiful! @Andre B has decided that although it's getting late, he cannot sustain his desire to build and complete another Sea Fury. Good luck Andre and thanks for joining. and @Retired Bob has unearthed an unopened 20 year old treasure chest and unveiled a large collection of forgotten Frog Kits. With a bit of prompting, the F-102 Delta Dagger has been chosen as another late GB entry. Nice find Bob, better than finding a dusty bag of gold sovereigns in my book! Cheers and all the best for the weekend's GB activities. Build Tally Total Builds = 151 / Total Subjects = 107 / Gallery Entries = 54 / Completion Ratio = 35.8 %

So your Meteor has been CAT-scanned. Chris

and one more painting session:

Another, half the size, perhaps more what you are needing. The technique is exactly the same:

Tonight I have continued working my way gradually aft along the starboard side. Though there are numerous small inaccuracies in Merit’s moulds in lots of places, they have at least tried all over the hull... except on the deck I’d call 2 deck (the deck below the flight deck), using modern RN parlance... but which they’d have called the Upper Gallery deck. [OK - quick digression, but worth doing to help people follow the build. Post-War (don’t know when the change came, but definitely by my era), deck names were standardised throughout the Fleet. This might seem trivial, but in fact accurate description of where a compartment is in a ship is vital: “Fire in the mess deck” doesn’t really help much if there are a dozen mess decks. The highest continuous deck is called 1 Deck. So in a carrier that’s dead easy: the Flight Deck = 1 Deck. Anything above that has a 0 in front, going up - so the levels of the island would be 01 Deck, 02 Deck, and so on. Anything below has no Zero, so 2 Deck, 3 Deck etc. are going down into the ship. The hangar of Ark 5, my era, was on 3 deck, for example. Once you are used to it, this is a simple, logical system. The 1940s RN was different. The Flight Deck was still called the same, thank goodness. But going up into the island the decks were A, B, C, D etc. And going down into the hull they had names: Upper Gallery, Lower Gallery, Hangar, Upper Deck (which confusingly was 4 decks down...), Lower Deck, Platform Deck & Hold. Throughout this build I will use modern terms, because they are completely instinctive for me and I find the WW2 terms highly confusing. Digression over.] For some reason best known to Merit’s designers, they have not moulded any detail on 2 deck at all, despite there being plenty there for real. If you look at this pic from a couple of days ago, there’s nothing there except a few pencil marks of mine: Tonight I have started fixing that; seen here are 8 newly drilled and brassed scuttles, the sponson for the starboard aft HACS (kit part) and a section of Tetra brass representing open galleries in the real ship - all on 2 Deck. It being a Bank Holiday, I’m home from tomorrow until Tuesday, so I will leave you with two summary photos which show all of the week’s work... seen from aft: ... and seen from for’d: Until next week Crisp

Happy Friday Eve you lot. Hope you’re having a spiffing week. some more progress after the intake debacle. This is now what I’m headed for. so here goes, deep breath and scrape off all that hard work. that wrecked the kit part pretty much so I sanded her off and started from scratch. I had a tea pig left over from my Lightning build. So I begin there. You can see the texture under the plasticard, which is half way through removal here as it was too thick. 🙈 tamiya tape cut to side seemed to be the right gauge. I primed then did a quick dry fit. That’ll do. 🙌🤗 Right time for some glue!!!!🚴‍♂️ The air intake. not bad really. A few seams but PPP will fix those. left to dry and knocked back with a bud and water. Im happy with that. 😀 I added some extra lead for the cooler to make em pop then dry fitted. The front. aaaand rear. 🤭 The scoop got glued but looked a bit thick So I fixed it and added the four little tabs with Tamiya tape. Baddabing! 🥳 I’m moving on to new bits but I thought I’d ask the hive mind before I commit. First up the tail. Does this look right? I thought it might wiggle left and right but looking at it, it’s not the case. So before I glue I thought I’d ask. Also Mr Scarborough cut out these flaps. I was going to follow suit but is this a bad idea? Did they open? Is there anything bad about having them open? Speak now hive mind, speak. 🥰🙈🕺 Just before I go I thought I’d share my bitter sweet week. 😀😭 My LMS in the city is to close in the next few weeks. It’s been in Brum for thirty or fourty years. Alas it is to vanish. 😭😭😭😭 But every cloud. As we are there almost every dinner time we got a mighty discount on all stock. So. aaaaand today. 😮😮😮😮😮😮🤤🤤🤤🤤🤤🤤 I have been longing after these for some time so here’s my last chance at a bargain price. Thanks guys. 🤗🤗🤗 Sorry to flaunt my new purchases but I have nobody else to tell as if “You know who” finds out my life wouldn’t be worth living. 🥴🤫😬💃 Hope you’re enjoying the build this far. I’m off to whittle some UC legs. Take care and as always. Happy Modelling. Johnny plastic. 💆‍♂️

Two thinner clear front panels were added to the side windows, and now before proceeding with the rest of the complicated solution of the windshield and roof (which will be added later on), masks are applied to protect -hopefully- interior and transparencies from the hardships of puttying, sanding and priming, of which this kit unfortunately needs an awful lot:

What is it that is dressed in black, curvy and is named after a dangerous arachnid? Off course, that is Scarlet Johansen nowadays! First thing that pops into mind really... But before her time, (and mine) there was a time when the idea of two rumbling engines, nice curves and black paint meant the P-61A Black Widow. We all know the story how this was developed as a night-fighter from the start with all the lessons learned from RAF night-fighters during the Blitz. It seems to me, that the thought, lets make like a cross between a Blenheim If (with gunpack) and Defiant (that turret) but everything shall be larger! Bigger radar, bigger engines, bigger guns, bigger wings, basically the hole shebang! Naturally when you do things properly it takes time, so when the A/C was finished there were no large armadas of german bombers to intercept. My plan is to do a certain individual from 422nd Night Fighter Squadron, called Jukin Judy. The reason is clear, since it looks like this (the machine on the right: This shows perfectly why I had to do it. No? Ok, a better picture then: Still not clear? Ok, this does it: Teeth! I first thought sharkmouth but then I friend pointed out that sharks are a bit more pointy but perhaps a whale is ore like it? He's absolutely correct! The nose with mouth looks a lot more like an angry sperm whale, so therefore this is my first whalemouth. Over to the contents. The GWH kit is from 2012 and has a rather nice and big box: Popping of the lid reveals some very crisp cast runners with what appears as oodles of detail. Also included are a tiny etch fret, decals, TWO erratas for the instructions and a resin gunsight, and a nice A4 picture of the boxart. Could be a suitable picture for work... Nice looking decals, but I hope to only use the stencils. Off course I've bought a few extras as welll: I recent trend that I've stumbled upon is that all my kits contains errors that must be fixed, and this one is no exception: First: The cowling opening is too small. Replacements from quickboost sorts that out. Second. Propeller is cast as one piece, and although clever it just looks too simplified! I'll order a Quickboost or True Details example soon. Third: Someone forgot to include the magnetos on the reduction gear casing. There is two small sports where they supposed to go, ut I guess someone forgot to include them on the runners... I could replace it by two Brassin engines but since that costs a wee bit more than what I'm prepared to pay for it, I'll go with option two. Make my own. Fortunately I've got a friend with a high res 3D printer, and I know my way around CAD software so this should be fun! No, I haven't forgotten about the Hornet, in fact it's wheel wells got sprayed yesterday!

Here is a update of what has been done lately. As I had some problems with the plastic rings that are made of plastic plate, I have removed the rings on the injection molded parts and I replaced it on the inside, so everything fits. As it was a bit to far on the inside I placed some thin plastic sheet Than it was time to put some more stages on the model. This is where it is at the moment. It is now nearly a meter high. I also got the decals for it from new Ware. That is it for now Cheers,

Thanks Johnny Chris, as Bill, Keith and Martian say, good news! Yikes Steve! Was it a CATastrophe? 🙄 Thanks John and Crisp Masking mojo very low at the moment - there may be a gap in progress. Talk amongst yourselves…

Goodmornig ...............and now I'm at end ok, this afternoon I'll post on final GB gallery....... See you later Ettore

3rd prize - Dinner with @JOCKNEY 4th prize - Dinner with @JOCKNEY with catering provided by Mrs Rabbit Leader 5th prize - ?? Ok, who’s next

Morning folk's nearly there just another coat of gloss on the canopy then framework to paint,tailwheel,guns to add and she's done. Just sprayed the matt coat and drying nicely.

'sup folks just a bit more Mustang ramblings for your entertainment (hopefully :)) ..I made up a new master plug to correct some shortcomings including not leaving overhangs at the back as can be seen sat on the wing - I used one of the pulls to just fill in some of where I have been chopping the fuselage about as I was starting to lose my bearings.. this is simply plumbers ali tape on the cockpit glass and a bit of litho to force the P40 filler into a nice profile of the fuselage.. ..I then used the mould/plug as a basis to just form the windshield panels out of PETG one at a time. The method was to immerse in boiling water and once soft put on a 2 inch thick bit of foam and just press down until it hardened again. Without moving I then scribed the reference of some of the straight parts of the mould so I knew exactly how it sat on the mould.. ..these blobs are soon turned into the panels themselves as can be seen at the bottom - i removed a tiny strip of the protective covering around the edges so I can assemble it, but still protect it - the fact there is virtually no aggressive heat in this process means they will be crystal clear ..sides are on the mould and the other parts coming together... the black sharpie edging means when you assemble it there is a visible trick where the thickness of the plastic just disappears.. ..CA was carefully wicked into joints as it was held on the mould and presto, a windshield... I also formed the rear former from brass around the mould and with a bit of brute force & ignorance.. ..as this bit starts to come together, I need to drop in the instrument panel so I can build up the coaming around it and ultimately the windshield - as such the parts were assembled .... dummy instruments & bits were added to the back to keep it three dimensional.. ..and dry fitted in place... ..I have also started to form the coaming - tricky as it is inside the windshield so needs to almost touch it all the way round, but also be a rigid shape to go around the panel - you might be able to just see it here.. thats it for now, take care y'all TTFN Peter