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Showing content with the highest reputation on 27/04/19 in all areas

  1. During the mid-afternoon of 30 April 1943, P-40Fs of the 316th FS from the 324th FG, along with the three P-40 squadrons of the 79th FG and a top cover of Spitfires from 92 Sqn, were flying an anti-shipping patrol off of Cap Bon when they were attacked by Macchi fighters, likely MC.202s from151 Gruppo and MC.205s from 1 Stormo. Although both sides made multiple claims, the only apparent loss was the MC. 205 flown by M. IIo Luigi Caroli of 88 Sq., 6 Gr., 1 Stormo. Caroli was listed as MIA, possibly shot down by Lts. Kim Bolack and Malcom McNall of the 79th fG, who shared in claiming a Macchi fighter, although they listed it as a 202. The tables were turned on 8 July 1943, when a MC.202 severely damaged the P-40F flown by Lt. "Bucky" Buchanan of the 316th FS. Buchanan was able to nurse his damaged Warhawk, coded Y*76, back to his base, where its rudder cable snapped upon landing. Buchanan was unhurt, but Y*76 never flew again. Here are my representations of the fighters involved, both in 48th scale, although I can't say for sure if the MC.205 I've modeled was specifically involved in the scrap on 30 April. P-40F: AMtech kit with resin nose, Cutting Edge cockpit with Ultracast seat (to replace the Cutting Edge one I accidentally damaged), Ultracast exhausts and tires, Eduard photoetch ring and bead gunsite, Sky Models decals, added brakelines and a mirror. I think that's it. MC.205: Hasegawa kit, including decals, Mike Grant's 'smoke ring' decals, Ultracast seat. Very nice kit OOB so not much needs to be added. Thanks for looking, and as always any comments and constructive criticism are welcome! Cheers, Mark
    30 points
  2. The third of my Japanese aircraft, an Airfix Mitsubishi Zero. Built OOB with H models decals for an aircraft captured by US Marines in June 1944 on Saipan Island. Tamiya painta nd quick oil wash for panel lines. IMGA0795 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0796 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0797 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0798 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0799 by neil Connor, on Flickr
    20 points
  3. This is Meng's new Rolls Royce armoured car, which can be built in either the 1914 Pattern WWI version or, as seen here, a 1920 Pattern in WWII desert configuration. It's a decent kit, albeit one with a few iffy areas that you wouldn't expect from a Meng kit. Despite that, it's still lightyears ahead of the old Roden kit and builds into a very nice model. The caunter was painted with a mix of AK's Real Color shades and some Tamiya mixes, mainly for the Silver Grey as the AK version didn't look very convincing. The full build can be found here Thanks for looking Andy
    17 points
  4. After a run of difficult models, I fancied doing something simple for a change, at least that was the plan! So here is Airfix's 1974 model of the Spitfire Vb, which has been released and re-boxed several times. It is a reasonably accurate kit, although much simpler than today's CAD generated models. EN821, 243 Sqdn, Ouston, July 1942 (2) w by Philip Pain, on Flickr EN821, 243 Sqdn, Ouston, July 1942 (5) w by Philip Pain, on Flickr EN821, 243 Sqdn, Ouston, July 1942 (12) w by Philip Pain, on Flickr EN821, 243 Sqdn, Ouston, July 1942 (14) w by Philip Pain, on Flickr EN821, 243 Sqdn, Ouston, July 1942 (16) w by Philip Pain, on Flickr I had to find a replacement for the canopy, as mine had bad air bubbles. Also fitted a larger oil cooler (from a more modern Airfix kit), and scratch built two heating pipes coming out of the rear of the exhausts. The marking became a big challenge, as the real machine had obviously started life with 1941 style roundels (and their brighter colours), before being partly repainted into the mid-1942 scheme. Also the code letters were a funny size, which I couldn't quite find a match for. The letter 'M' is always difficult, as no matter how many M's you have on decal sheets, they never include the one you want, so I made mine using letter 'V's. It is a Spitfire Mk.Vb serial EN821 of 243 Squadron at RAF Ouston, Northumberland in July 1942. It was being flown by their commander Squadron Leader Allan E.Johnston when the "Aeroplane Magazine" took a series of photos, which have since been widely published. Does this one look familiar to you? 243 Sqn Ouston 1942 original by Philip Pain, on Flickr You will recognise it as the following art print that has become the most common Spitfire painting to adorn living room walls; Vickers Supermarine Spitfire Mark VB of 243 Squadron by Philip Pain, on Flickr And then the story of EN821 gets even more interesting. Later on in 1942 it moved on to 65 Squadron, before being returned to manufacturers throughout 1943, for various updates and mods. In February 1944 it was transferred to the Fleet Air Arm, but apparently it was not 'navalised' or hooked, just being intended for shore based training. It was issued to 808 Squadron at RNAS Lee-on-Solent, and then on D-Day 6th June 1944 it was shot down by an enemy aircraft over Le Havre while spotting and gun-laying for Royal Navy warships. Sadly Sub Lieutenant Cogill was seen struggling to bail out, but he was killed. Most versions of D-Day say that the Luftwaffe was nowhere to be seen, but 129 allied aircraft were lost during the invasion. It must have been a rare event for an aircraft to fall to a Luftwaffe fighter. It is not known if EN821 wore navy camouflage, but it would undoubtedly have had full D-Day stripes.
    13 points
  5. For those who have endured the WIP for this, it needs no introduction, so let me introduce my 1/48 100% scratch-built A7V tank and base (I may have got a little carried away with the 'basic' base which is also 100% scratch-built and cost me £0.00). It would have been nice to use some figures (preferably in 'running away' poses), but of course none are available in this scale. Thanks to anyone who has offered help and encouragement during the build and particular thanks to @SleeperService for giving me the idea. If you're interested this is the WIP thread. Gorby.
    13 points
  6. This is my Lockheed AP-2H Neptune using the Hasegawa P2V-7 kit and the Blackbird conversion set and decals. The AP-2H's were 4 P-2H (P2V-7) Neptunes converted to a Gunship configuration and used in Viet Nam. They were equipped with a Forward Looking IR (FLIR)sensor and Low Light TV (LLTV) in a pod in the nose, replacement radar, tail turret, fuselage mounted grenade launchers, downwards firing wing mounted miniguns and Side Looking Airborne Radar (SLAR). Bombs and napalm could also be carried on under wing pylons. In addition both the piston and jet engines where equipped with sound dampeners. They were then painted with a 3 color gray camouflage. While there is at least one of these on display much of the special equipment such as the SLAR, sound dampers and armament was removed when they were when they were withdrawn from Viet Nam so, good photographic documentation is almost none existent. The Hasegawa kit is old and shows its age with raised panel lines, flash, and a bare cockpit but, it went together well. I used a combination of the Pavla resin interior overlayed with the Eduard etched brass that I think came out well. One comment is that the Pavla set includes 2 nicely cast seats for the pilot and copilot but, it does not have one for the observer in the nose. So I had to use the kit one spruced up with the Eduard seat belts. The Blackbird resin and decals were excellent, but both instructions were very lacking. The sound dampers were included but there were no instructions on mounting or coloring, and the some total of the decal instruction was a small left side profile. I assume this is because of the above mentioned lack of photos, but some commentary would have been helpful. Also the decals are missing the prop warning stripe and the jet intake warning chevron. I am guessing this is because there was no room on the sheet for them. Both of these are different then the normal red stripes and chevron that are solid red lines. These should be thin parallel lines with a space between them. I cheated and used a solid line for the prop warning, but punted on the jet intake warning. So on to the pictures. So I made some mods; Uncovered the cheek windows, repainted the SLAR and jet engine sound dampers and added some Mk 82 bombs I still have 2 more Neptunes that I plan on building: an OOB P2V-7 and a P2V-5 with the Blackbird conversion, but these will have to wait since next up is the Mach 2 (arrg) Ryan X-13 Verijet. Enjoy
    12 points
  7. Finished at last, just in time for the Milton Keynes Modelkraft show at the weekend, so will take it there for display on the club stand. Been wanting to have a completed model of this aircraft for a long time, pleased that I have now eventually finished it. In Progress build link is below, highlighting the modifications, paintwork, scratchbuilding, home-made decals, my own resin engines etc etc: Of course, the model was carefully assembled with a "Whole Lotta Love" .... (sorry, I know, I just had to say it ...... ).
    10 points
  8. Final one for now, built this at the start of the year, excellent kit, built OOB. Airfix Dakota C4, Middle East Communications Squadron circa 1967. Again photographs taken using my ipad.
    10 points
  9. This is my first post in 'Ready for Inspection'. I'm still thinking about the right format. I believe the bulk of the images of the finished model should reside with the build log and I do not want to replicate the effort too much. Here's a teaser image for his build: The build itself, its background, stages, modifications, paintwork, scratch building and a lot of images can be found over at 'Work in Progress': Comments are welcomed here or in the build post. Thanks Ran
    10 points
  10. Our model club has an annual Krap Kit Kris Kringle each Christmas – less politely known as a Build-a-Bitch – where you can get rid of what you consider a surplus, rubbish or otherwise unwanted kit and build someone else’s version of the same. I have learned to pick the smallest box within reason and scored a Revell 1/72 Fokker D’VII last time – not a bad result Last year it was a Revell Ki-61. I find it hard to believe that Revell could keep issuing this ancient (1963) piece of crap – it was released in 2013 and I have seen them in shops recently. There’s a review here Julian was kinder than I would have been. You would have to really not know your stuff to buy one when there are excellent Tamiya, Fine Molds and RS available. I suspect even the ill-fitting Dragon would be far better. I was going to just build it out of the box but I thought I could perhaps do a little better. I added some detail to the cockpit which you can’t see. The 2013 one piece canopy is of poorer quality than the 1963 three piece one! I shortened the undercarriage legs as it has a tippy-toe stance out-of-the-box. Shelley solved this problem by putting it on a stand! I looked about for a better scheme than the cliched 244 Sentai one and a fellow modeller (thanks Mark) came up with this Which represents a Special Attack Ki-61 of the 149 Sentai as seen here. A few things worried me – were the drop tanks really yellow? They don’t look the same colour as the yellow part of the unit emblem. Some conversation with @Nick Millman suggested they were not and also led to some discussion about the main colour. Nick described it as maybe being “the 'nibi iro' (dull colour, taken to be a dark brownish grey) described for some special attackers. It was a dark, slightly greyish, umber-type brown called 'tochi iro' meaning literally earth or soil colour” and suggested RLM 81 as a near match. That was good enough for me! Looking at the photograph one cannot help but think there were several painters, armed with mops or coarse brushes. They started at the extremities and somewhere in the middle they ran out of paint or enthusiasm (or both) and did only a perfunctory dab here and there on most of the centre section. I replicated this by brush painting using short strokes as though a 1/72 guy was wielding the mop. For a KKKK (BaB) kit I am happy enough with it and I had it built for the first club meeting of the year in February. Interestingly I recall as a schoolkid, pestering my parents for one when it first came out – amazingly it has hidden in a box till now and escaped the crusher. It’s literally “here’s one I made (decades) earlier”.
    9 points
  11. 15 Squadron Buccaneer S.2Bs at Red Flag, Nellis AFB, January 1983. I think they were there to support the Jaguars, designating targets. XX891 XX899 Thanks for looking, Sven
    9 points
  12. Thank you so much everybody. It is really a relief to know its in the right ballpark. I used two apps which I have on my phone, that are designed for colour blind people. While mixing, one told me it was brown. The other said it was dull, dark green... so I figured I must be somewhere close! 😅 I think I'm through with Mr Tamiya and his acrylics from now on however. I tried an experimental panel line wash in oils thinned with turpentine to an area behind the pilot's cockpit, but the Tamiya paint soaked up the wash and soon went tacky. I found I had to respray the area (again) and add what I hope will be a protective coat of Mr Color clear lacquer over the surface so I can work with it. By comparison the Mr Color lacquer coat that was used to do the clear doped areas of the wings is very durable and allowed me to do washes of oil and turpentine over the surface without complaint. The walkway sections were grimed up a bit, and the rib tapes were shaded as lightly as I could manage with a sharpened .5mm pencil lead that was traced along strips of tape that were laid down as a guide. I tried something new with the little rectangular brackets that mark the position of the hardpoints on the wings. A piece a scrap decal was brush painted in very dark grey and taped to an old gift card which I use as a sort of hand-held cutting board. The edges of the card are nicely square to one another, so I can rest my calipers on them and use them as a straight edge to mark and cut up grids of the decal film with a fresh scalpel blade. The effect is shown below. The rectangles measure .3x.5mm and are quite easy to place in position with a fine brush that is lightly dampened with decal setting solution. I'm really pleased with that, as they are a very crisp looking detail that takes only a little time to do. Maybe this could be useful in larger scales for data plates, fasteners and such?
    9 points
  13. Hi There, Right Forum this time..... This has been built as a surprise present for Innis when he comes back from his holiday. I picked it up from those wonderful people at Creative Models when they had it as one of their special weekly offers. I wanted to try using the AK Extreme Metals and Gauzy Intermediate to see how they looked together. The paints used were Ultimate Primer, Vallejo Model Air and Extreme Metals Aluminium and Polished Aluminium. I was trying to do this as quickly as possible between Innis going away and work. I realise now that I need to get the primer absolutely flat and perfect for the NMF so there are some lumps and bumps. I also think that I need to use my H&S with the 0.2 needle to coat the Intermediate Agent as the Sparmax Max 3 laid it down a little thick and caused numerous pools and runs. Well I caused it but the H&s will give me more control I think. still had a blast doing it and am looking forward to giving it to the wee fella on his return tomorrow just before we leave for Perth and the Scottish Nationals, my first time there and really looking forward to it. Hope to see some of you. Oh Yes, really must try to remember to blow the dust away before clear coating after putting the transfers on. The transfers look silvered in the photos but it really doesn't show on the kit. On with the pictures Many Thanks for looking and any advice/criticism gratefully received Cheers, Alistair
    8 points
  14. As I'm on a role, here's my Airfix Chinook HC1, 78 Sqn at RAF Mount Pleasant from circa 1987. As all my kits, 1/72, built OOB with after market decals. Not great photo's as they were taken on my ipad.
    8 points
  15. Not my usual subject so I may have made some mistakes along the way, but I couldn't resist building one of these . I think it just looks right.... Basic kit is of course the Revell one and the decals are the new ones from Two Six. I was hoping to add the real aircraft to my flight log on a couple of recent trips but no luck yet.. Thanks for looking. 20190425_133329[/url 20190425_133206 20190425_133219
    8 points
  16. Good day, ladies and gentlemen! It's my next model from Ukrainian manufacturer - AMP. It's typical 'shortrun' with good detailing.
    8 points
  17. Typhon FGR.4 in markings of the 3rd RAF Squadron and in the weapons configuration for the Ellamy operation - hits on selected Kaddafi targets in 2011. Revell model (in the box looks nice but in practice not so much) with a few added my little things and Eduard PE zoom, Lithening II CMK, GBU-24 Eduard, nozzles - OlimpResin (very bad - I failed on this product). I invite:
    8 points
  18. Spongy in damp conditions. One imagines. ...and this tells us that you will fit in very well here on the forum Anthony. For anything up to 2mm⌀ I've come to rely on this punch set: http://www.rptoolz.com/?p=196 Probably the most expensive bench tool I've bought (excl. the airbrush) but for the scales I work at, irrreplacable for both brass and plastic. Over 2mm⌀ thankfully there are much cheaper sets available, such as this one I used for the magazine drum: https://www.ebay.ie/itm/14-ROUND-CIRCULAR-DISC-CUTTER-CUTTING-TOOL-CRAFT-JEWELLERY-METAL-WORKING-TOOL-/300365403121?hash=item45ef2c53f1 As I rarely buy kits (the current stash will keep me busy for the foreseeable at the pace of work on here...), the investments tend to be in tools and materials these days. Exactly. We all have different ovens and vacuum cleaners for one thing! Experiment with different thicknesses of scrap plastic would be my advice to build up a feel for the process. As to the plastic ripping during vacform I've not had this happen but then you know yourself that the thinner the plastic in relation to size and sharpness of shape, the greater the likelihood this may occur. Certainly on progressively curving surfaces like cockpit canopies it's much less likely to do so than on something with acute geometric angles. Kind of you Simon. Some solid progress has occurred over the last couple of days activity on the starboard nacelle. This is (you may recall) my third attempt at getting this particular region as 'right' as possible, yet highly necessary to invest the time given its prominence in the final result. From previous attempts I've learned the following valuable lessons for working larger brass sections such as this one in the engine area: Use a tube of the required diameter for any parts that are remotely cylindrical, rather than trying to fabricate them from sections. This means you start with an accurate overall shape that can be modified in three-dimensions as required. Use a wall thickness greater than that needed - this will stop the part being distorted or crushed during handling/clamping, whilst any visible edges can be thinned-down as required to scale at the end. Use tape to mark out symmetrical openings to be cut out so that they are correctly aligned in thre-dimensions on a curverd surface. Obvious you might think, but not to M. Hulot here... I'll post up the steps I followed not because I'm daft enough to think anyone else will want to follow this route but because I'm daft enough to need to do it again on some future build and will leave this here as a reminder of process... Raight. One started one's metallic peregrinations on this h'occasion then with some 15.8mm tubing slipped over a 14.8mm doming head and roughly shaped with glancing blows from the hammer until an approximate 'mouth' took shape at top and bottom (the distorted sides produced by this banging about don't matter in this instance as they are being cut out to reveal the engine and firewall innards later): As per my 'three rules of tube abuse' above, I then spent a considerable period of time obsessing over marking out the required cuts to be made using Washi tape: Corners were drilled out to help with cutting later and then the initial curving profiles at the front shaped out with a diamond disc cutter in the Dremel: The sides were then cut out with the jeweller's saw, leaving this alarmingly crude looking result: Again, experience has taught me that it's far better to progressively rough out the required opening from the metal in stages rather than trying vainly to get it done to perfection in a single cutting operation ( as I rather stupidly seemed to fixate upon in the past) This way you can pause, assess and adjust at every stage of the process for greater accuracy: Final shaping of the side openings was done with the diamond disc again to eat away the excess, followed by a small hand file to level the sides and then finally a diamond drum to thin down the edges and curves to something like scale appearances: A quick check that the engine-bearer and firewall assembly fit inside: I'm far happier now with the overall shape of the nacelle and of the forward curves of the side openings; in truth the circular profile of the front of the nacelle could come inward a mill. or so more to meet the circle at the front of the engine bearer but as this will be largely hidden at the rear of the engine, I think I've pushed my luck and skill as far as prudent at this point in time. Next task is to bore out the undercarriage opening in the undersides and lok at removing that big external oil cooler from the previous version without destroying it and soldering it into place here. But not today. 🙂 Hope you're having good weekends to far in your chosen runs. Tony
    8 points
  19. I finished the interior and it looks like I can start assembling the main parts now. Airfix' detail is lovely but I added some aftermarket. Some Eduard PE and the Vickers machine gun is from Miniworld. I ended up removing the gun sight before I painted and installed it into the front turret. There was only one really big problem with the Eduard set and that is that the interior green of the pre-painted parts is very blue (almost the colour of Soviet jets). I repainted these components as well as I could with Tamiya XF71. I painted the interior back of the cockpit aluminium, like Stirlings and other early British heavy bombers. The navigator's table is folded against the side wall, revealing the two parachutes stored underneath. The way Airfix designed the kit is unusual but very satisfying. I've attempted adding rivets to the model. Wings are okay but they're not exactly straight on the fuselage. The wheel bays I painted black (dark grey with highlights and shadows). Thanks for looking!
    8 points
  20. On 5 May 1942 an advance party arrived at Chelveston from the Air Forces Experimental Establishment Detachment from Ringway in connection with the carrying out of specified work on the development of towing troop-carrying gliders. The remainder of the party arrived – according to official records – whenever the weather was fit for flying. On 3 June a Lockheed Hudson was towing two Hotspurs when one disintegrated in mid-air north of Raunds. Fortunately, both the crew survived. The AFEE left Chelveston on 31 August 1942.
    7 points
  21. I have been on a mission to complete some of my half built kits. And this is my first victim short on parts but a half decent kit but I am pleased with the results.
    7 points
  22. Just finished, owned by a friends company, would have preferred to do one of his ERFs but as I cane get any I settled for his Scania. Italeri with resin and etch parts DSC_0004 by richellis1978, on Flickr DSC_0007 by richellis1978, on Flickr The real one DSC_0001 by richellis1978, on Flickr
    6 points
  23. Hi all Finished F-5 F from Italeri, nice old kit with new decals. Not as good as ESCI mold but i like it. Always wanted to make MIG 28 but as there is no model of it in 1:72 i done this one instead TO be serious, nice model with some small issues, did not wanted to engrave panel lines just wanted it OOB. I had some issues with gloss varnish...but managed to keep it acceptable at the end. Decals are very thick..look nice but even after a 5 or 6 layers of varnish still thick... At the end i have this black aggressor...and i am happy I hope you will like it too Best regards and images at the end
    6 points
  24. Hi guys, Having been just released, the early type version of the excellent Gaspatch Hs 123 A-1 in Legion Condor colours proved too tempting to discourage me for building this kit for a 3rd time in a row! 1st and 2nd builds are here:
    6 points
  25. I added a bit of shadow to the canopy... ...although I seem to have not taken any pictures of that! I bought one of those plywood frames to hold the plane while I work on it - a bit flimsy, but I recommend it - saves damage from fingers etc, especially when working on the underside. At this point I was touching up chips etc where paint had fallen off some PE bits... It can be adjusted for different sized models... Props were next - I had left them as I did not want to damage them. Although I painted and 'weathered' the hubs, they won't be seen (of course!) I did add some 'chips' to the leading edges of the blades, and add some 'streaks' - but kept it quite subtle. Next it was the exhausts. I used some of that 'buffing' Humbrol paint which I had from years ago, oils and some rust 'powder' - no real planned combination, but it came out ok! ...again, some of the shine was taken back later. Almost forgot the mesh guards that are on the air intakes! I used graphite pencils and some wash to add depth to the engine that would be on display...this is a 'finished' shot... I had to tweak the multi-part canopy a bit to help it fit - the internal frame was a little high and was stopping the clear bit from fitting easily, so I had pried it off the model, and shaved a tiny bit off the frame so it sat a fraction lower - then I glued the canopy itself on with white glue. And that was pretty much it! I took lots of 'finished' photos (which I'll post in the 'finished' section!) and only after taking these did I realize I had missed off one part - the windscreen wiper!! (now added) Now I just have to figure out how to display/mount it. I like the idea of keeping it clean, but it needs something, so maybe a grassy base....then what - I don't know! No where to display, and the joy was in the building for me, so maybe sell it? But then again I like the idea of displaying it with the 1/32nd Lancaster (HUGE) and a 1/32nd Spitfire and Hurricane! Finished photos next...
    6 points
  26. Managed to get a bit more done last night. Doesn't feel like I did much but actually it's really moved forward now. After completing the cockpit including the oil washes it was time for a dry fit in the fuselage. These fit great and the fuselage halves fit together so it was glue time. The control and gun sight for the rear guns was an absolute nightmare to get in. It had to be fed under the top panel and held in whilst the glue set. But it didn't want to set and kept dropping out. I was racing the carpet monster on a few occasions but thankfully he was pre occupied and I managed to retrieve it! You know when I said everything fit nicely at dry fit... It's the same old story. It will get to the front glass section but needs some serious brute strength, this is where SWMBO comes in 🤣 actually best not say that she will find out. I've pegged it all together and will spend a bit of time gluing and clamping to get it to sit right. It should be ok, hopefully. And these where were up to. The pit looks alright actually, looking forward to getting more done.
    6 points
  27. Since my last post I have laid down a coat of Vallejo silver and sanded it back lightly in places. Then I went on to airbrush a coat of Aluminium, intentionally going for a mottled look in places. I am pretty happy with the results, and have sealed it in with gloss varnish. Now to move onto preshading the top of the aircraft, and the camo print job.
    6 points
  28. A JN-4H at Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome NY, June 1984. Painted as Air Service 38278. N3918 is powered by a Hispano-Suiza rather than a Curtiss OX-5 engine. She has since been repainted in US Navy colors. Thanks for looking, Sven
    5 points
  29. Hi Guys I have just started production on some new sets for the Airfix Hunter First is a new undercarriage set in brass and a new nose wheel in resin. https://aerocraftmodels.bigcartel.com/product/hawker-hunter-brass-undercarriage-set-airfix second set is Ailerons, Flaps and Air Brake, note although not easily seen the trim tab is added to the one aileron https://aerocraftmodels.bigcartel.com/product/hawker-hunter-ailerons-flaps-and-air-brake-set-airfix third set is new inboard and outboard stores pylons, note new parts shown with kit parts https://aerocraftmodels.bigcartel.com/product/hawker-hunter-underwing-store-pylons-airfix Limited quantities of the first two sets will be available at the Scottish Nationals in Perth (Scotland) tomorrow and Sunday the 27 and 28th April 2019.
    5 points
  30. One from last year, Lightning F3 of 5 Sqn, RAF Binbrook circa 1969. Built OOB, I found the Trumpeter kit excellent so will be building the F1 soon. Slight fogging on the windscreen but have now learnt how to overcome that particular problem.
    5 points
  31. Built for a 'Silly Egg' group build on another forum, I decided to give the old Hasegawa 'Egg' Hornet kit a Canadian flavor. (Insert all jokes about side-orders of back bacon here.) Since the kit itself is fairly simple, I juiced it with a few basic details. Even an 'egg' F-18 looks wrong without the black bulk of the ejection seat behind the pilot. A suitably-painted wedge-shaped block of styrene just fit between the pilot figure and the canopy. The pilot figure itself received straps for his oxygen mask and spare p-e buckles for his harness. An etched HUD frame left over from another build finished off the cockpit. Externally--though there are no gear wells or doors represented, with simple 'peg-in-hole' gear struts--some plastic-sheet gear doors and simple painted wells looked a bit better. The nose gear got a landing light. Mods specific to the Canadian Hornets included the 'bird cutter' aerials forward of the cockpit, tail-warning radar fairings and the small LEX fences aft of the cockpit. Canadian markings...surplus from Italeri's old 1/72 'RF-18A' boxing...included the port-nose spotlight position found on CAF aircraft of the type, for night interceptions of probing Russian bombers. And the answer to "When is an Egg-Plane Pilot Happiest?" When he's in his plane on the flight-line...waiting for orders to scramble. (No need to fuss: I'll just grab my coat and leave quietly....)
    5 points
  32. Here's my Su-30MKI based on the Academy kit. I used Sol, A.M.U.R Reaver, Neomega, Fairy Hobby, Eduard, Begemot, Aires, AKAN paints, Metallic Details and various other Flanker bits. It was quite a fight to get it all together but I'm glad I finally managed, it's a Flanker I always wanted on the shelf. The AKAN paints for this particular Su-30MKI Bort 01 and the second prototype 06 were excellent and Begemot had both the demonstrator's decals, I think there's something to be said for companies that produce such niche items for kits that don't really exist without some aftermarket and elbow grease. I think I'll reward myself with a well deserved relaxing build of one of the latest 1/48 Flanker family that arrived last week. Thanks for looking.
    5 points
  33. The last couple of days have seen the basic interior colour applied to the model and the tubular structure of the fuselage getting highlighted. I have yet to decide whether to highlight the stringers of not yet. I am off to Oxford for a couple of days and will think about that while I am away. Thanks for looking Martian 👽
    5 points
  34. A bit further on tidying and highlighting.
    5 points
  35. Hi Guys Here are some progress pictures on the T.7 set. The set is taking longer than anticipated, but I am trying to get it as good as possible. I am hoping to release it end of June, but there are still quite a few things still to get done. NO PRICE confirmed as yet. Proposed two box offerings to be released initially a RAF and a RN set, see decal options, the decals will be going to the printers in the next week or so. Note seats are only basic at present so I can get an idea for fit etc. Also other details still to be added or changed. Note it is a SMALL bore exhaust with the required brake housing. I will be developing other versions in the next few months.
    4 points
  36. My next build, a 1/48 Tarangus JA-37 Viggen. Plenty of aftermarket, to build a research and development version. This will also be my first proper commission build, which I am very pleased to have been offered. Untitled by ian gaskell, on Flickr Untitled by ian gaskell, on Flickr Untitled by ian gaskell, on Flickr Untitled by ian gaskell, on Flickr Untitled by ian gaskell, on Flickr Untitled by ian gaskell, on Flickr
    4 points
  37. My first post in this section and my first successful water effect. I read a book a number of years ago called the Bedford Boys, for those who have not read it. It's about a group of national Guardsmen from Bedford, Virginia, they were part of the 116 Infantry Regiment 29th Infantry Division. They were also the first wave on Dog Green Sector Omaha beach June 6th 1944, on a visit to Normandy last year I went to Omaha beach for the first time. While the rest of my group were in a cafe, I went down on the beach to get some 100% genuine Omaha beach sand for a build I had started the year before. I used Italeri,s LCVP D-Day edition, various figures from Dragon and Masterbox with beach obstacles from Tamiya. There are various woodland scenics products used for the water. Dog Green sector June 7th 1944 Dog Green Sector 75 years on Some of the men from the Bedford Boys who didn't make it back. My build:
    4 points
  38. Well - this time I'll try to follow suite and post most of the finished model pictures here. You can follow the build here: Comments are welcomed Ran
    4 points
  39. Here is my recently completed Kaman Seasprite, an enjoyable build of an old kit. I decided to push myself and build a detailed interior, which as it turns very little can be seen. Airbrushed in acrylics, mainly Gunze and Tamiya with some Lifecolour also. This is only my second airbrushed model. The scratch built interior: Thanks for looking AW
    4 points
  40. Hi, I'm just going to sneak this in before the site migration (I hope!) This is the Academy/MRC MH-60S Knighthawk in 1/35 scale. It's a big old beast with loads of parts and I also included the Eduard interior and exterior sets. All the paints are Xtracrylix painted over a black base of Mr Surfacer 1500. I used the kit decals throughout - I'd heard they were terrible but luckily mine were all excellent and behaved perfectly using MicroSet and MicroSol. The photos were all taken with my Nokia phone using my newly-acquired lightbox studio! The kit is large, complex and the instructions were rubbish. That said, the only real trouble I had was with the clear parts. The front canopy and chin windows did not fit very well at all. Also, the naval variant of this well-known kit requires the doors to be replaced, and the replacements didn't fit the exact dimensions of the removed parts. I left the gaps rather than fight the windshield fitting nightmare again! It's no competition winner, but I really enjoyed doing the paintwork, markings and after-effects. To be honest, I was glad to finish this one If you looked, thanks for looking! Alan
    4 points
  41. Friends, This is the Fujimi F1M Pete floatplane. I built this kit a number of years ago. While this is the only biplane that I have ever built, I found the kit and subject to enjoyable and interesting. I used E-Z Line for rigging which by now is much too thick for 72nd scale aircraft and has since been supplanted by other types such as Uschi and Infiniti brands. I built this Pete straight out of the box and weathered and detailed it with pencils, paint, and pastels. I decided to be a bit creative with the display base which I use for other WWII Japanese Navy types. I`m guessing that the kit is a bit of a challenge to find anymore but I do recommend it. Thank you in advance!!!!! Respectfully submitted, Mike
    4 points
  42. Eager to 'upgrade' to the impressive new AFV Club 1/144 Sea King double kit, I decided to polish off my last (in the stash, at least) Sweet 1/144 eggbeater. Markings are those supplied with the kit, the long-serving scheme for one of the busy search-and-rescue machines of the Marineflieger's MFG-5.
    4 points
  43. Hi all - some photos from the airshow at the weekend - this is really just a small selection of what was on view - It was a great day for it - we went on the Saturday... good thing too as the Sunday was cancelled due to the weather...
    4 points
  44. Thanks mate. Re-sprayed the black areas of the cockpit and added the HUD: Windshield has been added, masked up and left to set. I'll mask off the rest of the cockpit tomorrow before getting a lick of primer on. Dave
    4 points
  45. The last couple of days have seen the main interior colour applied and the highlighting of the structure begun. The port engine bearers have been sprayed Interior Green. The highlighting of the interior is quite a laborious process but I will endeavour to keep you all posted as it progresses. At least stuff has started happening again on the project and I can feel my mojo for it returning. Thanks for looking Martian 👽
    4 points
  46. Thanks Alexandra, that's really encouraging to hear. We have a saying at work... if you're not making mistakes, you're not trying hard enough. in a lot of cases that's very true, especially in model making. Trying new skills and new techniques is all part of the game. I still have a long way to go on this build so I'm sure there will be plenty more mistakes for everyone to enjoy. That's only 'cos I swept everything on to the floor just prior to taking those shots! Well, this week is a bit of a pig... incredibly busy at work, and have to work today as well, just trying to play catch up with the business. However I did manage to get some brief work done during the odd lunch break. More of an experiment really. Going back a few posts to the grab handles I made for the doors. I wasn't overly happy with them and they take an inordinate amount of time to make each one, and trying to get each of the end shapes identical is very frustrating. I ran over in my mind all the different ways I could try and make them - carving, resin molding etc, before I thought about 3D printing. I have absolutely no idea if this will work, and I might be at the hairy edge of the capabilities here but thought it was worth a go. Now there's no way (to my limited knowledge) a full handle could be printed at this scale and be of good enough quality to be used, but I'm only struggling with the very end of the handle, where it mounts on to the frame, so... after several false starts I arrived at this shape. Sorry no currency as scale reference but this part is 1.25 mm wide x 3 mm long x around 1.75 mm high then while I was doing that I thought I may as well try and see what a door handle would look like. I have simplified it slightly but I think it's worth a shot. This time dimensions are 5mm long x 1.5 mm wide and I can't remember how much the handle projects. I then threw those onto a single base and uploaded it to Shapeways. If the door handles work, I'll order another batch separately For around ten bucks I thought it was worth a try. Nothing ventured and all that The door handle was created by referencing a photo of one of the original parts so we'll see how good I was when the part arrives. I may have to tweak a few things and try again. That should be here within a week or so.
    4 points
  47. Cheers gents - I've left it alone for a week and decided to carry on with her even though she will be in a different guise..... I decided that because the model still seemed to be tacky (even after a week) I would handle it using the wings as hand holds and when I fitted them I found this boo boo.. ..the decals were about 2 mm too far forward so as you can see the R was partially obscured behind the wing trailing edge grrrrrr...so they had to come off! Out came the MIcro Set, the masking tape and sand paper and after 10 minutes I was back to this.. ..Now this left me with a quandary as I'd already used the decals for 'Spirit of Russia' and I don't have any spares what 'ton up' Lanc could I build instead? Now fortunately the Xtradecal set gives you options to build several other Lancaster's so I've decided to build PB150 of 625 Sqn, Royal Air Force station Kelstern so I added the H2S radome under the rear fuselage (which you get in the Airfix kit) Pinterest So Ladies and Gents thats where I am as of this morning. Cheers Iain
    4 points
  48. Rummaging through drawers was doing my head in so last weekend I made this. The thickness is probably a bit of an overkill but it stands up on my bench no worries without having to screw to the wall. While I'm definitely no carpenter, I'm very happy I can find my paint easily now
    4 points
  49. Yes, there's some more on now. I was waiting until I'd got the stowage on to finish off the weathering. And the last bits of stowage are now on. The jerry cans are roped around the running board bracket, which seemed the easiest way of attaching them and presumably what the crews would have done on the real things. On the other side, I've added a couple of P.O.W. canisters. You get one with the kit, but it's not very detailed so I've used a couple from a Bronco accessory set. The kit one is meant to be mounted in front of the stowage locker on the rear fender, and I've seen them in that location in period photos, but I don't know how they would have been secured there. I've just added some generic straps to the canisters so it at least looks like they're tied on to something. So, with those bits in place, and the final touched of weathering added, I'll call this one done. It's been an interesting build, with a few more areas in need of extra work than I'd expect from a Meng release. Overall though, it's a great kit, and clearly a big improvement on the older Roden kit. I'll post the finished shots in RFI later. Thanks to everyone for following along, and providing ideas and feedback Andy
    4 points
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