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Good day to all! Today I want to draw your attention to one interesting novelty. This is a model of the project aircraft Henschel P.135. The model is produced under the new brand “Pepelatz”. The model is a set of resin parts of high quality. The surface of the parts is well polished, has no cavities, bubbles and other defects. The cockpit canopy is molded from a sufficiently transparent resin and is also free from defects. By the way, there are two of them in the set, in case of damage to one. And you can damage the canopy when it is separated from the rather solid casting part. In general, when assembling this type of model, you cannot be in a hurry; the model requires you to be calm. At the same time, it should be noted that the process of assembling a model does not at all have to use obscene expressions, as is usually the case with other manufacturers of resin models. The process of docking parts almost does not cause complaints, everything is very carefully made and perfectly fit. The only points that the modellers would like to draw attention to are the docking of the details of the niche of the main chassis with the fuselage halves. You should make a “dry” fitting of this part and slightly adjust it in order to ensure a tight fit of the half of the fuselage. Another point is connected with the side flap of the air intake - it does not have any guide parts that provide an exact match along the axes when docked. But the overall compliance and thickness of the material makes it easy to adjust the position of the part relative to the axis of symmetry by grinding. In general, it should be noted, that the plane was a concept and had only sketched drawings - there can be no particular requirements for strict compliance with anything. This allows an experienced modeller to take the initiative and "guess the way" the detailing of the aircraft's surveyed surface in order to improve its visual perception and integrity. So, for example, I did a front landing gear cleaning rack, added etched straps, imitation of hydro and electrical wiring, stuck the “alarms” of the devices, and also riveted the entire surface of the plane. The same, of course, concerns the colouring of the model, under which one can, within certain limits, give free rein to fantasy. For example, the manufacturer proposes to use the RLM02 in the cabin interior, apparently referring to the imitation of the test, not the flight pattern. But we know that from the end of 1941 the inner surfaces of the crew cabin were ordered to be painted with dark grey paint RLM66 (Schwarzgrau). And even if we paint a model in the “What if?” Style, then we should still adhere to a certain chronology of events. The same applies to the aircraft's proposed painting scheme according to the standard RLM74-75-76. We know that these colours were used in the first half of WWII and the aircraft, the project of which was proposed only in 1944, should be painted according to the scheme RLM81-82-83-76 if implemented. Or, more attractively, according to the “desert” scheme RLM79-78-80. I decided to use the first version and used RLM82-83-76 in colour. Certainly, the stencils and paint masks proposed by “Pepelatz” are a nice addition to the model. With their help, a modeller who loves perfectionism can not only mask the cockpit and wheel lanterns, but also “blow out” on the stencils of the balkenkreuz, as well as board numbers. Moreover, the number "5" can be done with edging, because proposed, respectively, two samples of its stencils. There are also decals for more impatient and less demanding models. However, according to the requirements of the time, there is not even a hint of the swastika images. This approach probably has the right to life, because an experienced modeller will always get a swastika “out of stock” and its application will remain entirely on his conscience, and an inexperienced modeller will have a hint at something forbidden which is probably not needed. You will tell why there is a resin model for an inexperienced modeller in the first place, but it seems to me that an inexperienced modeller can also overcome this product. The only difficulty will be in careful manual separation of parts from moulded parts. By the way, any etched files from any manufacturer are perfect for this purpose and do not need any mills and circular saws, since the material is very malleable and easily handled. Summarising, I can say that the model is perfect for almost any level of modellers, and for perfectionist modellers, there will certainly be much to do with hands, but not “for correction, but for improvement”. In any case, by purchasing the model, the user will definitely enjoy the assembly of this, in my opinion, predicted the future development of the prototype jet technology of the “gloomy Teutonic genius”. Also you can to view all photos of assembly HERE

Latest in-flight diorama depicting 8th Air Force Bodney based Mustangs ditching tanks before breaking into the enemy. Airfix 1/72 scale Mustangs and `blurred` base from Coastal Kits. (Prop blur courtesy of Flickr photo editing). Thanks for looking.

The DC-8 is among my favourite airliners and I built up quite a collection of thos old Revell kits,both the short 10-50 series as well as the longer -61. I always wanted to do a Flying Tiger DC-8-63 and Revell released a kit with those decals some decades ago. It was labeled as DC-8-61/63 althoug Revell never included the engines for a -63,so you always ended up with a -61. I bought this kit from a fellow modeller,but the African Safari Airways boxing,and then searched a long time for an original Revell decal set for the Flying Tger DC-8. After almost one year of search,I managed to track one set down on Ebay that was in pristine condition. The only thing missing were the correct engines for the -63 and after some more months I finally got a resin set from contrails and the build was on. To fit the engines on the wings,its nesessary to sand away the remaing mounts on the upper wing and extend the leading edges. The rest of the build is straight forward and the kit fits quite well given its age. Painted with Revell metallics using different shades and some silver decal stripes to slightly highlight the fuselage sections gives some added details. The rest is done with a DC-8 detail set from Avigraphics,which is sadly no longer available. As I built most of my DC-8s gear down,I wanted this one gear up as it shows more the elegant lines of this classic Douglas airliner. Hope you like it. And with something else...Eastern Airlines DC-8-53 in "formation flight"

Garden shot with stand photoshopped out. A bit of a vid to show sensor activation, runs for 30 seconds (adjustable). Supplies 6v for motors and lights. The same stand as used on an Argosy build from last year. Bit messy I know, I’m not sure what angle the rotorshaft should be tilting forward but it seems about right. The main rotor is driven via a 6v 200rpm motor gear box.. I think I remember the real thing was about 230 - 240 rpm. The rotor head isn’t fixed to the shaft (although it goes through it) but has a slipping clutch effect on the collar shown, which is fixed. It takes about 15 seconds for the rotor head to catch up with the shaft. (The nuts shown aren’t used) I did it like this because I didn’t want a high speed motor running away with it’s self and difficult to keep it slower and steady speed. But then the problem with the slower geared rotation was too much torque which would go from 0 - 200 rpm in less than a second which would either rip the blades off or rip the body apart. The tail rotor spins at about 1000rpm but is so light I just used the same motor as in my Argosy. IR jammer, as close to what I can remember when I was on 72sqn in the mid 90s

Friends, This is the Hasegawa OA-4M Skyhawk. While I built this kit primarily straight out of the box, I did add the Mk-82 Snake Eyes from the Hasegawa weapons set. I weathered the “Scooter” with pastels, washes and paint. I recommend this kit to all as I found it to be an enjoyable, straightforward, and simple build. Thank you in advance!!!!! Respectfully submitted, Mike

The first real 737-100 injection molded kit also comes from Eastern Express. Their quality improvement compared to their earlier kits is outstanding,although their kits are usually in short run quality but they are much more accurate and better to build than most of their older models. The 737-100 belongs already to the newer offerings,recessed panellines and fine details are there although still a bit rough in some spots but the overall quality is fine. The build itself is a bit tricky in some parts and filler is needed frequently,but careful preparation can be a great help. I compared the fuselage of the EE kit with an Airfix and its really almost 1cm shorter than the latter,so you end up with a real -100. The only mistake EE did,are the engines.They are too long and clearly belong to the -200. As the Airfix 737 has the shorter engines,I just switched them and smacked the Airfix engines on the EE kit. The EE engines will also fit on the Airfix kit with some slight modifications. Eastern express overdid the detailing on the landing gear with far too many tiny parts,so I decided to use the front gear and al the wheels from a Revell 737-800. With some adjustments these parts fitted quite well. The Singapore Airlines decals are from MACH 1,they seem to be very old but they still worked perfectly. The instructions show where to trim the stripes on the shorter fuselage.They were designed to fit on the Airfix 737 kit,but the instruction has a 1:1 stripe replica wich outlines the spots for the cuts to be made. The windows are from a 707 and 727 detail set,but I will probably replace them with AA realistic windows in some time. All paints are Revell and Testors enamels and the wings are slightly weathered with HUmbrol graphite powder. Hope you like the Baby Boeing

Captain Noel Chavasse of the Royal Army Medical Corps was the only man to be awarded the Victoria Cross twice during World War One. The second time was unfortunately a posthumous award. Tommy's War produce excellent figures from WWI and they have released a figure of Captain Chavasse, assisting a wounded soldier. They are beautifully cast in grey resin with some really sharp details. The figures were a joy to paint. I have displayed the finished pair using a shell fragment which I found near Pozier on the Somme. This is the shell fragment just after I found it. It was lying in the plough soil. Noel Chavasse is buried in the Brandhoek New Military Commonwealth War Graves Commission Cemetery, Ypres, Belgium. Thanks for looking Angelo.

As a TriStar admirer,I was very excited when Eastern Express finally came up with an injection molded kit of the -500 and I bought it right away. At first sight it looks like a cut down version of their "standard" -1011 kit which was obviously ripped and slightly altered from the Otaki kit. But it really turned out to be a little more than that. The greater wingspan of the -500 was added and also the bigger front cargo door is included. The build itself has its ups and downs as its a common thing with short run kits. Most of the parts need a fair amound of filling and sanding but with careful preparation of the parts it goes together quite well. The S-duct of the No.2 engine is also included but its a bit tricky to fit it into the fuselage halves. I built it mostly OOB,I just repaced the landing gear with an Airfix leftover,because the original parts had some serious molding issues and were beyond use.Some adjustments had to be done on them to fit into the EE kit. Painted entirely with Revell and Testors enamels and sligtly weathered with Humbrol graphite powder. Eastern Express offers this kit in different airline liveries,I chose the Air Transat version as this airline is a frequent visitor at our airport during summer. When they started their weekly service back in 1992 from Montreal to Basel (Switzerland),the TriStar was used,later added by a second weekly service done with Boeing 757-200s. So as a reminder of those good old days I wanted a TriStar in Air Transat livery for quite some time. Cheers

This particular model was done by me somewhere back between 1991-1993.I cant remember exactly. Back in those days I brushpainted all my models,sometimes more successful...sometimes less... This one belonged somwhere in the middle. It was first built as Wardair Canada but over the years it had badly yellowed and also the seams were visible in some places and the overall paint was not correct compared to the real one. Last year I decided to redo the model,and give it a fresh paint and a nice new livery. I searched on Ebay and found an originial vintage Revell/Lodela decal set for Cruzeiro of Brasil. The set was bought and the renovation was on...strp off the old paint with Revell's paint remover,clean up all blemishes fill the cracks and also the cabin and cockpit windows. The main problem of the Revell 727 are the recessed cabin windows,which just look unnatural and the cockpit has no clear part,just holes. After everything was cleaned and repaired,it was time for the new paint. The decals worked well despite their age,but it was quite troublesome to get the blue sections around the front.A lot of cutting,patching (and cursing) later,it was all set and done. The Revell 727 kit is in my opinion the better option compared to the Airfix kits as it captures the lines of the 727 pretty well. Cheers First 2 pictures as she was before the redo (sorry for the quality of the pics,the ligting was unfortunately not very good)

The model that I made at the beginning of my adventure with modeling. I hope that it is not very weak. This is the F-14B Jolly Rogers Trumpeter 1:32, model made straight from the box.

Hi all. The Fairey Rotordyne was yet another great British idea that came to nought, in my mind it had so much potential but this was never realised, however, what the programme created was a very unique looking aircraft that performed very well during it's development and which has it's place in history. I started this little project as a gap filler for another build but this kit in fact took more of my time and effort simply because I did not realise the task I had set myself. The model is finished as one of the earlier forms of the prototype so the distinctive middle vertical tail surface was not required but the strengthening struts for the undercarriage had to be fabricated, these were later removed as development progressed. Also, the remaining vertical tail units were cut and angled out as it would be when the aircraft was on the ground. As with most prototypes an instrumentation boom was also fitted so this was mad from Albion Alloys and scrap PE. That was the easy part, the fit of many of the parts was not the best and probably to be expected from a kit of this vintage and much time was spent coaxing the parts together and filling but the worst area by a country mile was the cockpit glazing, this was truly horrendous and after much work I just could not go any further and called it a day, it was improved but not brilliant. The next and by far the largest and worst job was removing all the 20mm cannon holes that were trying to pass as rivets, this took several passes of filler as when I sanded down some filler just disappeared due to the shallow nature of the cannon holes. As hard as I might I could not see these rivets prominent on the real airframe and being NMF I had to remove them, I think I got most of the blighter's! Another little job ( he said) was to modify the propeller hub. The kit would have the propellers running against the front of the engine nacelle so after looking at pictures I noticed there was a gap between propeller and nacelle so I made an extension to the hub behind the propeller for both sides to create the required gap. The model was sprayed in Alclad II paints, paying particular attention to the rotor blades as these are so important to the look of the Rototdyne. One last job was the decals, the kit items were way to big and left no room between the bottom of the windows and the bottom edge of the fusalge so I made my own, along with the Fairey logo and ' Rototdyne' decals on the rotor pylon, these two unfortunately rebelling against the decal solution. So on reflection, did I enjoy the build..no. Am I happy with what I achieved....yes. Would I make another....I would rather not. Hope you like it, pics are not great but will try to get better ones soon. Thanks for looking. PS. Just realised before posting that I had not attached the instrumentation probe so you will find it on the last picture, god bless her, fighting till the last....

As an average modeller, I'm pretty pleased how this conversion came out. Built as HMS Phoebe's Wasp when featuring in the 1970's series 'Warship' Can't wait for some of the offerings coming up ....

Remember this? I did finally get a picture or two, still not done any decalling/transferring Starboard nearly pristine side And port as a nexample And above to show the ridiculously skinny upper deck walkways work will begin later... With a selection of about three Italeri and the best part of one Revell sheet it seems likely I can improve on this But honestly, should I need to? Laters chaps (I had a great time last night, I think I may have inadvertently become the happy owner of a more recent era's sports car. Funny game huh)

Some ancient Airfix Boeing 727-100s... These kits have become rare items by now and getting sold sometimes at silly prices. I was lucky to get a collection of Airfix 727s from a modeller who cleared his stash,and among those were 2 of the 727-100 kits. Interestingly the fuselage offers separate doors and cargo doors compared to the later -200 version of Airfx and also the nose is better rendered on the -100. The rest of the parts are the same as in the -200 kit,which means also the wing fences are in the wrong spot and need to be relocated. Another interesting,yet annoying issue with all the Airfix 727s are the wings...they start to warp and bend after glueing the halves together...some more than others but they always do.No idea why this is...? Anyone has a solution to avoid this ? The TWA decals are a mix of the original Airfix decals (red window line) and a set for a -200 from 26decals that I had in my stash but never used it for a 727-200. All windows come from a 707 detail set but I am not very happy with the cockpit window and I am planning to replace it with a Authentic Airliners set. The same goes for the Delta Airlines version.This set comes from Pointerdog 7 and is very nicely printed exept the cockpit window looks a little off,but it will have to do for now. I really like these old classic liveries of TWA and esp. Delta,and I am planning to do some other airliners in those respective liveries in future. Although I like the Revell 727-100 kit better,I am still happy to have 2 of those Airfix -100s in my collection. Hope you like 'em

Meteor F8 , WK803, 56 squadron RAF Waterbeach 1953 for the NATO v Warsaw pact 50s GB Built from the Airfix 1/48th kit, painted in Tamiya AS12 with decals sourced from a Classic airframes kit and a light Flory wash to finish off. Some fit issues with the intakes and especially nose, but on the whole a nice kit I would recommend Would have been kept clean as it was used on the Queens coronation flypast. Need to sort out a proper setting to take decent pics. rather than phone pics at some point Thanks for looking, any feedback or tips welcome Ian

Another one for my collection of special liveries. The All Nippon Airways "Fly Panda" scheme I found very eye catching when I first saw pictures of the real aircraft. Hasegawa is always a safe bet when it comes to special liveries from japanese airlines and the Fly Panda scheme was no exception. The decals are nicely printed but a bit tricky to apply on the model. They do not fit perfectly and some careful trimming and spacing is required to get everything in place. The cockpit window comes from an old AHS 767 detail set as Hasegawas window decal is way off in shape and the wing coroguard panels are from Liveries Unlimited. It was a joyful build for in between and is a very catchy sight on my shelf Cheers

Wasted MUCH time & effort with the Flightpath set on this, especially in the cockpit & I have to say that, excellent as that set is it's really NOT necessary in order to produce a superb rendition from the Revell kit, in my humble opinion anyway! I intended to use Xtracolour High Speed Silver on the undersides but on opening both tins I had, neither were in a fit state! Therefore I used AK aluminium which is a bit too "metallic". To cap it all, and this has never happened to me before, the masking tape left a residue on the metalizer that proved impossible to remove & I didn't fancy starting again. Therefore it's presented with a "bit of weathering" on the undersides Kit decals for 56 squadron RAF Waterbeach 1959 I think.

After a few hours the 5s have settled nicely: Not quite dry, by dry enough for me to do this: Needs the lights doing and a pitot fitted (thankfully 'normal'!) and then we're done.

Just finished another LIDL buy, basically a couple of hours OOB (and probably shows!) I've never built a Hurricane before although I always intended too. I like the look of them and remember seeing one flying at Biggin Hill in the '60's. This model has a resonance to me as it depicts a MK I of 615 squadron Kenley in August 1940. I live a mile or two from the old airfield and often drive past. I tried a bit of lining in the recesses for the first time and it is fair to say that some bits worked better than others. The tail wheel is missing as one of my Grandchildren decided to take it for a test flight! Helpful criticism always gratefully received - I need all the help I can get!

Hi, here the new Airfix Ju 87 B-1 in 1:48. I add some PE parts by Eduard and used Gunze acrylics for painting.

Thanks Roger, John, Giorgio and Ben Now in the gallery here. The final bits… A couple of bits of slide tube for the pitot. Here's a tip - don't pick up the container with the open end downwards and certainly be careful how you pick up the bits or you'll bend it: Careful drilling, a drop of CA or two, some paint and you're there: Thanks again to @Biggles87 for suggesting the Sellotape Diamond: … which, if you don't get your fingers all over it (doh!) makes great light covers: One not in the gallery: Why oh why oh why oh why oh why can't I blend canopies? Oh, lazy, right. I blobbed filler under that TWICE and wiped it off with all the care of a [insert your favourite non-caring person here] Onwards! Thanks to everyone for your help, support and company during this 'supposed to be easy' build. That was before I started on the Pavla internals and bought the CMR stuff. Some people never learn. What's next? No idea. I'll have a ponder later

Airfix 1/72 Harvard II with Pavla internals (now invisible) and CMR conversion for the exhaust and canopy. Scratched pitot and landing lights. WiP here:

Hi Folks, Last week I started this kit, even tho this kit came out in 1983 it is still a good kit, tho details might be less especially the cockpit area but it was sure fun to build with good fit and little or no filler requiring. As, usual I painted using Tamiya, little of mixed and match to achieve the blue-grey tone. Here it is in EC 1/12 Cambrésis 12-YE / 46 | NATO Tiger Meet - BA 103 Cambrai June 1979 colors, Thanks for looking. Cheers the tyres need some corrections

Please don't laugh as I have been running a group build on another site and the theme is a starter set but only using the kit components and the basic tools no airbrush allowed or any other modern aids just going back to basics. And I must have chosen the worst kit the paints were ok with the exception of the silver witch took five coats. So I certainly appreciate all the modern aids. So I may try to find the exact kit and throw every modern aid at it.

After finishing a multi-month project (Ford Tri-motor diorama at the "Mountains of Madness") I needed something quick and relatively brainless to get my juices flowing again. Looking through my stash, I selected Tamiya's 1/72 Ki-61 Hien (Tony): Right off, I'll say the engineering in this kit is top-notch! Everything falls together with almost no fretting or putty needed. And the detail Tamiya includes in this little bird leaves little room for aftermarket. It turned out to be an excellent choice for my mojo-restorer. Stew Dapple has already posted a definitive WIP on this subject -- I couldn't improve on Stew's thread so I decided not to post a WIP of my own. For anyone who is interested, Stew's double-build WIP can be found here: I also decided to do this completely Out-Of-the-Box, with an eye to entering my Tony in this summer's local modeling contest. Tamiya's Tony includes three camo options. Stew chose the all-metal and overall green schemes for his two builds. That left me to do the version with overall-metal and mottled-green upper surfaces. This particular aircraft was flown by Major Tembico Kobayashi, with 14 kills to his credit (one being a ramming attack!) For the most part, I followed the instructions "to the letter", including paint call-outs. I deviated from the painting info in a couple of places. Stew used Colourcoats paints for his gray-green interior and the reddish-brown prop. I couldn't find Colourcoats here in the U.S., so I substituted with the paints shown below: I also used AK Interactive Xtreme Metal enamels to create the natural metal finish: Finally, for the mottled green upper surfaces, I cheated and bought a set of decals from Tamiya's Detail-Up Parts Series: That's enough jawing for now, let's get to the pics! First, some "beauty shots" taken in natural sunlight: And now a few under more controlled lighting conditions: Next, some detail pics: Beautifully-detailed interior: Yes, I used the kit's decals for my seatbelts: Gauges on the IP are also a kit decal: The canopy is extraordinarily clear, so my time spent on the interior paid off: Note the "ramming attack" kill marking! Gun barrels are molded in, but you can't tell by looking! b The landing light looks great, but I did have to sand and polish the clear part to fair it in to the wing leading edge. Landing gear bay. I wanted this to be a "clean" bird so I kept weathering to a minimum. Antenna wire was made using Uschi's "Rig That Thing" rigging line" And now, the bad news :-(( I used generous amounts of DioSol on the mottling decals. It really wasn't needed (except for a couple of small places), but I've never before applied large decals like these and I wanted to be sure they would go down properly. Well, as I'm sure you know, DioSol causes decals to wrinkle before finally settling in place. Apparently, when the decals wrinkled they took some of the Xtreme Metal paint with them, afterward leaving a fossil record in the metallic surface. Looking closely, one sees this: The camera makes it look worse than it appears to the eyeball, but it's extremely irritating nonetheless. Arrrgggghhhhh!!! So, there we are. Mojo successfully restored and I'm now looking for my next "big project". Thanks for viewing! P.S. If you didn't catch my Tri-motor diorama, you can check it out here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235052025-at-the-mountains-of-madness/&page=1

Early start (for me) this morning. The old Airfix transfers behaved well. As suggested I tested one from the other scheme on a mule and, after a little more soaking than usual, settled really well with DecalFix: on Flickr You can probably see how well they settled over the rivets - they just don't slide very well over them! Hit a problem though - the 5s on the wheels needed some Daco Strong to (hopefully) settle them down: so I'll have to leave the rest for a while.

A three-part spliced spar made of light plywood is fabricated: Then superglued to the top upper wing: The two lower wing halves are glued, and the slats (two spares) are ready to tidy-up:

Thanks Simon, Ben and Giorgio While I'm waiting for the varnish to dry I may as well fit the bits. The exhaust is wider than the kit part and oval rather than round: Various chopping, drilling and shaving and it's in: May as well fit the prop too: Don't look at the canopy blending. Still no good at this. Must try harder. Transfers on tomorrow.

This is actually the project I had planned for this leave until I was overcome by Hellcat fever but I still couldn't resist starting it! 😁 Bit of decal slippage on the instrument panel but probably won't be noticed from a reasonable viewing distance.

I managed to get this one on the cheap just missing a few bits notably the mesh and neck uprights but dispensed with the kit gun and scratch built a more life like TV one that does work.

Following in the shadow of the arrival of BA's last Retro Livery into Heathrow this lunchtime today (747-436 Negus and Negus in 1/1 scale!) here is Hasegawa's 1/200 kit wearing 26Decal's BOAC 100 Year Centenary livery LaserJet printed decal set. I have replaced the kit's GE CFM's with a set of Contrails RB211 Turbofan Rollers in resin - they were OK but no match for the quality that Braz provides in 1/144 of the same. A great fun and up-to-date Civil topic to build, Thanks for looking in. KEEP CALM and BOW-AC ON ! cheers - John

This has taken months and I am feeling pleased to have completed it. My first go at any sort of rigging - achieved thanks to the helpful tips from guys on this forum. It's very satisfying when it all comes together at the end.

From what I remember, the wing guns are mislocated too far out, no upper or lower breech blisters, the cowl still has the bulges for the cowl guns, even though none were fitted (plastic is thick enough to sand them down), while there is engine detail viable through the wheel well, it is minimal. Also, the cowl flap in front of the supercharger is fixed closed, not open as in the kit. Here's my build of the Hobbyboss FW-190D-11 ... https://imodeler.com/2017/12/1-48-fw-190d-11-jv-44-a-wulf-in-parrots-clothing/ https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/hyperscale/viewtopic.php?p=2639636#p2639636

Replaced my original serial number with one that now looks a little better, and all of the Silver frame decals have been added to the fuselage windows on both sides. My home-made circular 'Icarus' decals have now also been applied to the fin/rudder surfaces, and am happy with how they have turned out. Will probably add a coat of clear over all of the completed fuselage and fin decals, just to seal them in, and then once that has hardened off can get cracking on with the wing painting.

Time to tackle the short shot tail. My original thought was to wait until the two halves were mated and then used filler but then I thought I would get a better - and stronger - result if I used plastic strip. So armed with some 30 thou Evergreen, it went from this: through to this with the edges squared away and the strip ready to be applied: to this: I basically tacked it in place with some CA and once that was set brushed the whole join liberally with Tamiya Extra Thin. When that was completely dry, I took a sharp scalpel to the edge to fair it in in and then finished with wet/dry. I've deliberately left it standing very slightly proud so that I can finish it off after I've joined the two halves and probably given it a coat of primer.

Dear Fellow Modellers Greetings to all! Please find enclosed my Airfix 1/72 B-17G. It is loaded with the Eduard PE and Quickboost resin guns and turbochargers. I did my own representation of riveting. The decals are for the 306th BG based at Thurleigh in England in 1944-45 from Kits World. This recent Airfix kit shows a more restrained panel line representation than previous kits. The transparencies are absolutely outstanding and shape looks spot on. Regards Andrew

So I have decided on a C-130J It is started but I am pretty sure it will pass the 25% rule, all I have done is rescribed the fuselage and one wing, added resin engines to one wing and added replacement undercarriage sponsons. Still need to attack the cockpit, rescribe the other wing and add the tanker specific parts. The props in the image are for another C-130J build BTW.... I must be mad!

Made OOB except for the PJ Productions pilots and Tamiya masking tape seatbelts. Finished using mostly Tamiya acrylics. Vents on the intakes were sprayed on as they are missing from the Airfix kit. The only issues concerned the decals. The top and bottom intake louvres are wrongly numbered end up with the bottom louvres on top. Also the sharks teeth decal is missing the top row of teeth. I e-mailed Airfix about this and they are going to address it on the next run apparently. The lowe rwing roundels were changed for an earlier design set from the stash as most photos I have seen from this period seemed to retain the older design. Finished in 2 Sqn colours from the mid 1970's at Laarbruch. Mounted on a scrap piece of kitchen worktop that has been oiled and polished. Can be mounted on brass rod or on it's wheels using this method https://www.scalespot.com/reference/stands/stand.htm . Feel free to comment, criticise or generally pull to pieces

I've spent the past couple of days working on the cockpit, this is how it's looking so far...

Wheels fitted and satin coat applied: Transfers next.

Hi everyone! I've finally finished Modelsvit's 1:72 Mirage 4000.

Hi, This will be my entry, an old Esci C-130. the kit came with recessed line and I planned to build is as RMAF Charlie... The kit came with a few opening for gunship options, so I created some sound proof padding to cover the unwanted opening. I also try to sketch build the APU intakes, the forward one seem too big, so I will have to redo with a correct sizing, More later, Cheers..

Hi all Finished this one recently , nice kit to build, built OOB apart from the seat harness. Brush painted with Humbrol Enamels and weathered using Oil paints and weathering powders. There is no Whip as there have been quite a few on the go and did not want to add another. Hope you like Thanks for looking All the best Chris

The top wing is assembled, using epoxy on the top of the spar and normal plastic cement on the periphery. Care is needed here to avoid introducing warpage. Wing must be checked from front and back, and work out any deviations. Not easy with that span:

A model built seven years ago, an old release from Attack Hobbies, a company with an unhappy name, to say the least. The body comes separated in the middle, one of the poorest molding choices I have ever seen. As said, body incongruously separated in the middle, not the easy way for the modeler, if apparently was so for manufacturer, at the expense of the modeler. Only a few parts. Beautiful car, and great choice, not so beautiful kit: Photo via Sebastián Villalong in Argentina:

As soon as I pulled the masks off, I thought "Oh s**t." Actually, I didn't think that, I said it. Loudly. Followed by an entire symposium of expletives. Then I had to go to confession, but I was absolved and am now just about finished with the repainting. Photos to follow. Thanks, Trevor. There have been other goof-ups in this build; this was simply the first soul-baring that I shared with the world. Normally, I don't post my mistakes - this is a distinct advantage of internet forums with regard to reputation building. But after thinking about it for a bit, I just had to post it because it's so darn funny. Cheers, Bill

Been otherwise occupied for a bit... The base was carved out of 15mm Lime. Then gessoed fingerpaint style, which avoids brushmarks. Painted and varnished with artists acrylics. The bow wave and foamdown the sides will be done when the boat is mounted on the base. Got the glass cut for the case from the local framing guy in the village. Glass glued with silicone. Rather like building an upside down fish tank. Thanks for looking.

The lower wing parts are now attached . It took the whole weekend of tweeking and countless dryfits . I am very pleased with the result as when i first started to realize the mismatch between wings and fuselage i thought this area might be where i ran aground . first pic shows top joint P1030037 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr front shims sandd down P1030036 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr bottom wing joint . The wheel bays are just reting on the wing ,not in position P1030034 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr The next problem to sortout is the gap between the wheelbay and under wing . One wheel bay is 3mm shorter than the other laeving a difficult void to fill . P1030033 by Alistair Pearce, on Flickr

Sukhoi Su27 Flanker US Navy Cold War