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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/17/2019 in all areas

  1. Hope you’ve all enjoyed the first Formula 1 GP for 2019. Just before the race started I took some proper photos of my most recent kit completion, which unlike the other three builds I’d been working on has thankfully made it this far. Long story short, a group of four like minded modelling mates decided that we all needed to clear the cobwebs a bit and motivate each other to get a kit completed. We decided to build similar kits and chose Tamiya’s still quite serviceable 1/48 P-51 Mustang (3 x P-51D’s and 1 x B). We started the kits together on the same day and sent each other text updates on our progress each Sunday. I did change my scheme mid-way through the build and stupidly had to re-fill the pre-drilled underwing rocket stub holes I did. Overall however, it was a relative stress free build which was what we were all hoping for. So here’s my version of this mini Mustang Group build. Titled “Fresh from Fishermen’s Bend”, it’s my take on CAC’s first of 200 CA-17 & 18 Mustangs built for the RAAF (80 & 120 respectively). The CA-17 was based on the early D model and I made slight modifications to the kit by adding - early Mk.III gunsight instead of the later K-14A (pinched from a Spit), filled and drilled the kits squared aperture K-6 gun camera to make the rounded K-4 type and filled two of the three underwing nav lights to leave just one ‘white’ light (common to all CAC produced Mustangs). I also ended up using a spare Airfix 1/48 canopy as the two part kit example is not the greatest (this still needs the internal curved brace - whoops I forgot that!). Paints used were Humbrol 101 for the interior RAAF Cockpit Green, Gunze C352 Zinc Chromate Yellow for the main wheel well and a combination of AK Interactive Extreme metals (K479 Polished Aluminium and K481 Aluminium) for the Natural Metal bits. Decanted Tamiya AS-12 Airfarme Silver was used on the main wings, rudder and elevators as these areas were painted silver. Thats enough chatter I think, so here’s some photos.. Cheers, all comments welcomed.. Dave
    31 points
  2. This is the first off the mark for me in 2019. Its the Revell 1/48 Tornado Gr.4 in 617 Sqn colours. Its my tribute to the Tonka retiring from RAF Service. This kit is pretty good, there is enough detail out the box to make a decent model. There were one or two fit issues but I managed to wrestle it into shape. I used colour PE to lift the cockpit and seatbelts. Also a brass pitot tube. Please comment or leave any questions you many have and thanks for looking!
    30 points
  3. Its been a while since I posted owt new, been in a bit of a slump... well new image anyway, this was finished in March last year for Club 'RAF 100 years' theme. Hope you like...... ..... All comments welcome.... DaveH
    22 points
  4. This is the one that's broken my slump (I Hope)... started just Before Christmas, and finished in time for this years Bolton show. Nice kit, but not without a few issues. Finished with MRP paints, which are a joy to use. So here's the pics..... All comments welcome, just waiting for traffic warden... cheers DaveH
    21 points
  5. Hi Guys let me introduce you to the Tamiya F-16 CJ, the kit was dream to build no issues what so ever, this was also my first Time using MRP paints, and I have to say they are a dream to use, just brilliant. the kit has the Aires cockpit and undercarriage, and I used a reed oak fire along with a PG productions figure, the decals are from fox 1 vipers on guard. enjoy Mike
    17 points
  6. Hi all, this is my first finished of the year. The model is rather correct in shape apart rear engine fairing where I removed 1.5 mm in height, Decals come from the excellent Syhart sheet, the only issue was that they refused to slide as they should and apply the "Sécurité civile" ones was a nigthmare. I hope you enjoy. Alain
    17 points
  7. Hello. Here is my Italeri 1:72 Junkers Ju 188A-2 U5+KH, of 1./KG2, Luftwaffe, based at Bron, Lyon, France, autumn 1944. I completed this kit in 2005. The cockpit was incorrect so I scratchbuilt a new one. The top turret interior was also modified as that of the kit was more correct for the Ju 188E/F variant. The exhaust flame dampeners came from a scrapped Dragon He 219, if I recall correctly. Several other details were added. The main scheme was painted with an airbrush. Decals came from a Begemot sheet. Thanks for looking and, as always, all comments are welcome Miguel
    15 points
  8. I don't build many big grey jets, but when my son came home from a car boot sale having found this rather box battered kit thrown in with a bag of old PC computer games I could not believe my luck. £20 sealed the deal so it is a real bargin. Contents were all fine, and the decal sheet was the real motivation, I don't know how old this particuler boxing is but it went together without problems. Painted with extracolor enamals and humbrol satincote. Phantom by Untitled by peter crossman, on FlickrUntitled by peter crossman, on FlickrUntitled by peter crossman, on FlickrUntitled by peter crossman, on Flickr pictures taken on ipad, sorry about the quality.
    15 points
  9. my last job, enjoy : voila voila
    15 points
  10. Thatcher cosplay Pete? Place them upright at 1 metre intervals across the lawn to make your garden more interesting during thunderstorms. That dog has the same tongue as me.... Indeed - a to Massimo! Thanks Giorgio: with it being Paddy's Day this weekend we are in ultra-lazy mode and I haven't got as much done of Annie as I would have hoped, but there is a bit below.... 😆 Thanks Adrian - needles to say I did manage to break a bit of the bottom of the circular window during this morning's operations, but as that area is in a state of flux anyway regarding modifications, there's no great angst involved.... Just wait til I do my 'Map Room with Secret Charts Left Carelessly on Desks Overnight for Cleaners to Photograph' diorama Keith.... Not to mention one with possibly the longest gestation period also! Just Rocket Max (for the slightly longer curing period) and plain white breaad flour Ced. By trial and error I found that you want to add just enough flour so that the mixture turns pearlescent so that it still has a bit of flow to it, otherwise too much flour gives the mixture a granular consistency that sets too quickly also. It took me a few tests to get a feel for it but the hardened remains were perfect for a Cocaine Moon diorama... Not at all dear boy. Wartime rationing: acorn flour would have been the authentic touch..... This has become the tool of choice for most metal and plastic cutting these days Ced so I can reccommend something along the lines of: https://www.ebay.ie/itm/JEWELLERS-SAW-ADJUSTABLE-TYPE-INC-144-SAW-BLADES-/292677923075?hash=item4424f6b103 It comes with a large number of spare blades of different grades also. I've bought quite a lot of gear from those guys and find them very reliable. 😆 I remembered to drill out the circular skylight on the port upper nose section: Typically this came through right in line with the port locating pin for the kit moulding so it is not going to let much light in: Just below it I added the repeaters for altimeter and airpseed. The lower location pins were a problem in sticking far up enough to raise the bomb-aimer's floor up too high, so I ground these down by about 1.5mm, as well as adding a shelf on either side for the floor to rest on. Said floor: Originally I'd assumed there was a kind of mattress like affair for the bomb-aimer to lie out on but further investigation revealed this to be a square cushion for his chest/sternum area only. The cutaway from the original 1936 Flight article indicates that he had to lay at a slightly askew angle to fit inside the nose, which must have been uncomfortable on the neck for any prolonged period: Just realized looking at that, there seems to be another skylight on the starboard upper nose as well. How did I not see that before! 😁 Starboard side has a little more in the way of various boxed for things like bomb selectors and an overhead cabin light sticking out of the wall: The top of those two horizontal strips is also the cabin heater for the nose, though I'm not sure what principle it worked on. Floor test-fitted: You might *just* glimpse some of that looking in from the cockpit later: - but most traces will be gone when viewed from the schnozz window: Sorry there's not more but I'm kind of enjoying this long weekend of indolence..... Not anticipating too much further activity during the week as I have to fly over to Cambridge midweek for a couple of days work-related stuff. Looking forward to seeing the place as I've never been there but as so often happens, will be too busy to spend much time appreiating the surroundings. I'm booked into somewhere that describes itself as a boutique spa hotel: pray for my masculinity brothers..... Tony
    15 points
  11. Howdy all, Managed to get a few shots of my attempt at Trumpeters 1/48 MiG-19 kit between showers and gales Finished as an aircraft of the 925th Fighter Regiment, `Dong Nai`, NVAF, North Vietnam, around 1971 Built almost completely from the box contents Only additions being some seat belts and a brake/power steering line on the nose undercarriage Decals came from L Decals set LDS 48007, `Migs over Vietnam Pt 2` ...... ...and a few from the kit Much easier to build than my last attempt which was the HiPM kit Hope you enjoy, thanks for looking Cheers Russ
    14 points
  12. Finished today, built out of the box, with aftermarkt decals by Modeldecal. Dave
    13 points
  13. Now, where were we? oh, I remember.... Thanks guys but the winch just wasn't doing it for me. The more I looked at it the more I didn't like it. After double checking my references, I found that I had misinterpreted a few things. So, Let's start at the very beginning, it's a very good place to start. When we start we begin with.. lemme see... So I took their advice and did just that. Back to basics here. Styrene and brass tube and off-cuts of plastic. Then square bits and round bits and all chopped up drastic ally Carefully fettled then glued and then pinched. This is the way I make my new winch. That's looking a bit better methinks. Though I did save a few parts from the original, namely the sticky-outy valve bits. Now before anybody shouts at me. In checking as many photo's of Wessex mounted winches, I have been amazed at the number of variations. Originally I thought it was just the plain flat faced type (that Fly provides) and the knobbly warty kind that I am hashing up here. However I found that even within the knobbly type there are numerous variations. I've seen a case that splits in half and is butt jointed. I've seen the same type of case where there is a jog in the casing and one slide slips under the other. The valve arrangements also vary. Sticky-outy straight ones, sticky-outy then duck down (like I've done here), sticky-outy with a taper, and others. This back face is much better - I hadn't quite caught the angles right first time around I also managed to capture that relationship between the small lip at the bottom and the front face more accurately Now for the hydraulic piping. This top valve arrangement is made from a piece of round tube with a square tube stuck on the end. The square tube is then drilled through to accept some small diameter stainless steel wire. To make the hydraulic unions I resorted to drilling out some Meng resin nuts and bolts and threading the wire through them Just like these which are hardly visible here I can't remember if I showed this one before, but I added the bracket which the winch frame is bolted into The last touch on the winch was to add the bolts which clamp the two halves together, along with a thin strip to represent the joint. I had just enough time left to squirt some primer on the frame and the winch. Definitely much happier with this version. I think I caught the angles on the frame upper attachment to the fuselage much better this time around Once that's painted up it should do the job nicely. It's still only dry fitted at the moment. I even remembered to pre-drill the winch to accept the main hydraulic lines for when it comes time to fit it all together Here endeth what was essentially a repeat of everything I did last time around, but with an alternative ending. There's still a few bits to add to the frame but for the most part, it's done. I guess I'll have to attack the winch hatch panel in the trans deck door next. until then...
    12 points
  14. This is my PZL P.24A in 1/72 scale built in autumn 2018. The model was built from Azur offering - cat. No A102 - PZL 24A/C Turkish Air Force. Aftermarket upgrading: YahuModels instrument panel and Master Model metal gun barrels. I have thoroughly reworked the surface structure and to some degree scratch detailed engine front area. There are quite many pictures here, but I hope you like them. Best from Szczecin, PL:
    11 points
  15. Revell 1/72 Panzer IV Ausf H Mid Revell kit backdated to a mid production version with Eduard and Part photo etch details, Part etch zimmerit, AB Figures crew, RB Barrel and aerial, Eureka tow cable. Big thanks to Stix for hosting a very enjoyable gb All the best Ben
    11 points
  16. STUG IV Panzer Lehr division June 1944 Normandië Kit: Tamiya Paint: Tamiya Extra's Metal gun barrel Decals: spare box and from the kit. That is it. Cheers,
    11 points
  17. Hi Everyone, My Type IXc UBoat is now complete. Thanks everyone's support during the build. Pictures below. Cheers for now, Andy.
    10 points
  18. Sd.Kfz. 165 Pz III/IV Hummel Kit: Dragon Extras: figures - Master box, equipment - Eureka XXL and ICM Scenery: mainly scratch built Build thread:
    10 points
  19. Thanks John Some more Nimrodding below. Thanks Keith She is adorable, until she gets those 'evil eyes' and pounces! Thanks Simon - Barbara? I've lost touch… Anything would be an improvement Tomo! Not impressed at the moment Thanks Ben - where do you get those Spider outfits I wonder? Indeed First day back to the bench for ages and look at this mojo killer: on Flickr … especially as the tiny ones aren't separating from the carrier and have to be cut out. Eight of them applied so far: As you can see they're big enough to be noticed (even on the ceiling) and small enough to be really irritating. I need to get some discipline and push on. Ugh.
    10 points
  20. I reckon it's about two-and-a-half years or so since I last finished a model and about 12 months since I last used my air brush, but sometimes a break (of not from the hobby then at least from building) does us all good. That said, it was getting to the point where I had to stop and think what I was doing, as I'm a tad rusty to say the least. In typical Tamiya style, this kit builds like a dream, with no dramas or issues. Paint was a mixture of Mr Hobby and Tamiya, with weathering from Mig and Tamiya products. The extra stowage is a mixture of Tamiya and Plastic Soldier Co. I still need to build and paint the crew member, and at some point I need to do something about the offside rear view mirror, which appears to have snapped off without me noticing. I regret taking such close-up pictures as they really don't flatter my skills! I do love these 1:48 AFVs and will probably start the Tamiya Achilles now (although I really need to finish a half-built S&M Canberra first).
    9 points
  21. Hi, Here is Tamiya's nice 1/48 Gekko Build OOB and Painted with Tamiya lacquer thinned acrylics... All the markings apart from the kill marks are also painted with home made masks... Thanks for looking.. Cheers Plasto...
    9 points
  22. Hi, Here is my Dragon Platz Panzer IV Ausf D. somewhere in the Western Desert.. I added a few bits here and there to make it more prototypical for a DAK panzer. Figures are also Dragon. The DAK Panzer and Artillery set... I’m not much of a figure painter so forgive me on that. They were enjoyable to paint and have spured me on to buy a better brush.. Thanks for looking.. Cheers Plasto
    9 points
  23. It's been a while since I've done any work on the big BUFF but thought it deserved a stint back on the bench... Since the last update and completion of the internal bulkheads, the next logical step has been to have a play with the landing gear bays. It took a lot of head-scratching to get the legs themselves correctly positioned and therefore the internal bay roof structure, and as is often the case with these types of builds, you sometimes have to sacrifice accuracy for structural integrity. Therefore the bays I've made are an approximation of the real thing but close enough for a cursory glance when it's placed on the model show table - especially when the big doors and legs are in place to hide the majority of my work! I had a good delve into the bays of the B-52 at Duxford for some much-needed reference as well as a few books, and armed with plenty of plastic card and Evergreen strip, I set about building up the basic interior structure. The front bay: IMG_0865 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0862 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0855 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr And the rear bay: IMG_0863 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0859 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0856 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr And both bays together: IMG_0861 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Still lots of further detailing to be done, but the basic structure is now there... Until next time, Tom
    9 points
  24. Panzer IV Ausf. J Sd.Kfz.161/2 1 SS Pz. Div. 723 Normandy 1944 Kit: Tamiya 1/48 Paints: Humbrol, Revell, Citadel and Railmatch acrylics all applied by brush Extras: Tamiya Zimmerit stickers (the set for the H version - which fit fine), Vallejo European Thick Mud Build thread: Here Ready For Inspection photos: Here ....and one on my Spitfire display base with some grass matting:
    9 points
  25. Sturmpanzer 43 Sturmpanzer-Abteilung 216 Italy, 1945 Kit: Tamiya 1/35 35077 Aftermarket: Tamiya 12763 Zimmerit sheet Build thread: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235048815-sturmpanzer-43/
    8 points
  26. Panzer IV Ausf. C 1st Panzer Division France 1940 Kit: Hobby Boss 1/35 80130 Figures: MiniArt German Tank Crew 1940 35191 Build thread: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235048700-hobby-boss-panzer-iv-ausf-c/
    8 points
  27. Hallo Freunde Heute möchte ich Ihnen meine jüngste Arbeit mitteilen. Es ist der gut sitzende F-84F Thunderstrak von HobbyBoss. Der Grund, dieses Modell zu bauen, war, es ist sehr farbenfroh, neben der Tarnfarbe sieht man gelbe, orangefarbene und rote Teile, was ich wirklich mag, denn das macht das Modell interessant. Wie Sie sehen können, habe ich vergessen, die Platten mit den Pylonen zu mischen. Ich werde es bald überarbeiten. Es ist nicht mein Meisterwerk, aber bisher bin ich zufrieden. Das Pilotprojekt stammt von PJ Production Die Aufkleber, das Bugfahrwerk und die Haupträder stammen aus dem Revell-Kit. Ich habe mich gefragt, dass ein 40 Jahre altes Bugfahrwerk besser aussieht als das eines modernen Kits.
    7 points
  28. HI all, in sight of the finish line now. Since the last post I've added all the decals (there are a lot of small ones included in the airfix kit) and painted and attached parts like the guns, exhausts, undercarriage, etc. All of this went together without too much hassle though the clear parts with the guns on the underside needed a bit of fettling to fit and might now get some fine filler before a touch up with paint. I'm going to paint the squadron bars as shown on the xtradecal sheet and the photo below. In the photo it looks like the Luftwaffe might not have been very good at masking off the area near these bars and I'm debating whether to have a go at recreating this effect, risky though! Once I've added the gun position on top and sorted out the props she'll get another coat of varnish and then some final weathering. Thanks for taking a look!
    7 points
  29. I remember years ago seeing a nice A-7 at a Mildenhall airshow. She wasn’t navy and had a cool camo scheme. So when I saw an ESCI kit come up cheap online I couldn’t help looking back at photos of the old airfetes. And I found this Then I found some decals for that very airframe, so the decision was made. The ESCI kit is an A-7E navy bird, but included the ANG A-7D parts including the boom refuelling receptacle. So this is how she turned out Really wanted to get her outside in the sun with some shadow but the weather isn’t playing ball. Thanks for looking
    7 points
  30. Thanks to the kindness of fellow modellers here on BM I now know what the paint pattern should look like and the only way to achieve anything close to the original is to mask the areas. So after lots of time and frustration later you get this The textbooks in the picture are from my oldest two sons who are revising for their "highers" exams that's the Scottish A levels which you take at school before going to University or heaven forbid getting a job ! Still seems to be lots to do and the end date of this GB is racing towards us ! Cheers Pat
    7 points
  31. Many thanks chaps. Hope you feel better soon Steve. It's all finished. I'll take some photos for the gallery in a bit. Theres a couple of bits I'm not too happy with, but overall I'm pleased with the results. Many thanks to Stix for his excellent hosting and a thank you to everyone who has looked in and supported the build. All the best Ben
    7 points
  32. Unfortunately I'm short sighted, colour blind and enjoying all the further loss of vision one experiences when turning 50... This is the primer I would recommend for the ribs. It is fine grained and holds an edge really well. Here's a shot of everything used for doing the ribs. The retarder is nice but not entirely necessary if you thin the paint right down though. The one thing I would say was absolutely essential is a good set of digital calipers. They are a joy to use and will improve your work and quality of life no end. These days a set of high quality Mitutoyo calipers can be purchased for as little as $10 if you shop around. Back in the day, my first pair cost almost $400. To use them, you set the width and can lock them in place via the thumb screw at the top. If you are measuring a certain width - say 14.97mm, there are four places on the calipers where this measurement is given to you. Here's the first three: The main one between the jaws is good for measuring external widths. The small ones at the top are ideal for internals, and the one on the end is a very effective depth gauge. And the fourth is on the back. This one is the most useful: That one is a beauty and I use it all the time. I can rest a component on the ledge and mark its surface with a scalpel line or use it to cut tape and other things that have been placed in a straight edge. For example, when cutting the setout strips for the rib tapes they need to be precisely the same every time. You can lay the tape on a flat surface with at least one straight edge (old giftcards are great for this) and position the card on the caliper's ledge. I'd hold the thing in my left hand while doing this, but for the photo I've placed it on the desk. Run the new scalpel blade along to remove and discard the first strip. Then Zero the calipers and set the required width - .25mm in this case. Make a new cut, change the caliper setting to another .25mm smaller, make another cut and repeat etc etc. You can make strips that are accurate to 0.01mm and have them come out exactly the same every time.
    7 points
  33. This is the 1/72 scale Heller/Humbrol Super Constellation, completed as an L-1049H-82. This particular Constellation (Dutch registration PH-LKN) was entered into service in 1958 as one of 23 Super Constellations at KLM, and one of only three “H” model Connies in the fleet, configured as a “combi” for passenger and cargo carriage. She was christened the “Hermannus Boerhaave”, and could seat 112 when fully configured for passenger carriage. Sometime prior to her retirement from KLM in 1962, she underwent a livery design change, emerging in the later KLM Constellation livery of dark blue stripes over and under her windows. Following retirement, she flew for World Airways, then Flying Tiger Line. She was damaged beyond repair as a result of a fueling accident on Kingman, Arizona, and ended her useful life as a gate guard at the Mojave County Airport there in 1971. Sadly, as has been the finish for most of these beauties, she was broken into scrap in 1975. This model has been a long labor of more than a year, but nonetheless a joy and learning process to finally complete. Many thanks to my newly found Canadian friend “radioguy” for his much appreciated and treasured guidance, suggestions, and instructions from his own experience in Connie building…”school never stops!” To see the process of assembling this particular model, go here: Enjoy!
    6 points
  34. Hello. I'd like to add these F-6As: This looks a nice kit with resin but no etch. Apart from opening the canopies I'm not planning to modify them at all. I'm planning to do one US and one US seemingly lent to the Desert RAF. Alan
    6 points
  35. Bristol F.2B "Fighter the Crocodile" A year after start I was able to finish the build of this Brisfit last week, just in time to take part on exhibition and contest last weekend. This biplane was rewarded with a gold medal in 1/48 class. The model was build from a "Limited Edition" kit 1127 by Eduard in 1/48, but was enhanced with a lot of scratch builded parts from wood and metal. As usual I used paints form Alclad, Gunze, Mr.Paint and oils for weathering. This is definitely the model with the biggest effort until now, so from that point of view it is my masterpiece. And now the pictures! Cheers, Frank
    6 points
  36. #8/2019 My dad´s newest rollout, continuing the captured aircraft theme. Eduard kit with Rising Decals, brake lines with plastic rods and lead wire, paints used from Tamiya, Gunze and AK Real Color (RLM78/79). This aircraft was originally "Black 14", assigned to 2.(H)/14, Aufklärungsgruppe 14, and equipped with a Rb50/30 camera. It was shot down on February 20th 1943 in Tunisia. After a belly landing it was captured by British troops and later given to the Americans. Members of the 79th FG restored it to flying condition, the camera was removed at some point and the hole covered with a panel. In November 1943 the aircraft was sent to Wright Field for tests and afterwards written off. Build thread here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235050201-under-new-management148-messerschmitt-bf109g-2-79th-fg-usaaf/ DSC_0001 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0017 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0001 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr
    6 points
  37. Pz IVH, 130 (Panzer Lehr) Panzer Division, Normandy, summer 1944. 1/100 PSC kit, Brush painted with Vallejo, Akan and Citadel acrylics and inks. It looks truly horrible in these pics, but much better to my naked eye in real life, where it's a fraction of the size it is here. And finally, the obligatory penny shot. On my screen that image is three times life size TFL It's been fun, and I've been blown away by the quality of the builds. I definitely see some 'proper' sized armour in my future Andy
    6 points
  38. First one was great, second one is about as good as it gets. (whispers.....That should get him to do it again)..... Ian
    6 points
  39. This was a challenge due to trying to make the stripes a little rough. As these were not coming back I gathered they were not Perfect. Pictures seem to verify some straight and some rough. I decided on the rough edges. I had to add the rear tail braces and the guide wires. I look forward to the Horsa (just started) at least a little more Interesting Scheme..OD and Neutral gray..Along with those lovely black and white stripes. Fun and rather easy build, basic modeling skills Thanks for taking a look Comments welcome Regards Bill
    6 points
  40. Life has got in the way a bit over the last few weeks, and it's been nearly a month since I last posted here. Not a lot of modelling happened in that time, but I did get a bit done here and there and got to the point where I could get it painted this week. So here it is: cheers Julian
    6 points
  41. Why is particular plane so fascinating? As I advance with a few parallel builds to clear the building board, I look and look at details on the HP42 and they seem to be inexhaustible. Just on the top surface at the center of the upper wing you can see, among so many other details, four discharge hoses/vents, looping out from the tanks and coming back to the surface of the wing and running all the way to the trailing edge. Two of them coming from some little towers that I assume are filling stations. The upper surface of the fuselage is crawling with vents and an array of what I think are control cables running from the top of the cockpit to the first pair of V wing struts, Venturis, scoops, two cables running from the fuselage to under the top wing after the second pair of V struts, emergency exit hatches (one in the front cabin and another on the aft the cabin), and on, and on, and on. I even discovered that are small notches between the upper wing and the engine pods at the leading edge, clearing a metal plate that surrounds the latter. Bellow the upper wing we have the details associated with the slats, metal panels and flanges surrounding the engine pods, the landing gear is complex, so are the engine pods when looked closely. So many details! And I want to pose the cargo hatch and doors open, which means more detail. A long endeavor, but one I am looking forward to. I only hope there aren't big issues with the basic build, so one can concentrate on beautifying. Soon.
    6 points
  42. And since this is a "zoom in" model here some additional shots with details. Have fun! A big effort was spend for rigging with "RAF wires", here are 188 scratched metall parts are used on the wings, on the fuselage there are additional ones: And finally a new shot with the medal: Cheers, Frank
    6 points
  43. Hi, I’d like to take part with a quick build of an Aircraft kit... The Patton Tank GB starts in a few weeks so something straightforward is on the cards. Enter Monograms Recce Panther.. unstarted.... The sprue frame on the instructions is underwing stores which are a hangover from the regular F9f-5 kit and are not used on the PR Panther... The kit looks nice with good detail raise panel lines which don’t worry me. Neither do a few inaccuracies here and there. It’s going to be an OOB build. Cheers Plasto
    5 points
  44. It's been quite some time since i posted anything, but I recently started hobby boss's Gloster gladiator (or RAF gladiator as they call it). (i hope the flickr pictures will show up as it's the first time i use this site for pics) I also have airfix's gladiator wich is a more detailed and accurate kit, but since i will be finishing this kit as a Belgian maschine i will be airbrushing the markings and since i have limited experience with this i wanted to try it first on a kit that would build up quickly so i could get right into painting. contents of the box 3 piece cockpit At this point i realised the belgian gladiators had a differentstyle windshield but fortunately the airfix kit had this style and the option of an open and closed canopy so since i'll be building the airfix with an open canopy the closed item would be a straight swap right.... Turns out the hobby boss made the rear taper far to wide so the solid portion should only be half the with... what to do... moddify the hobby boss clear part... a lot of work and no accurate result still so out with the saw for the solid portion i made a mold from milliput and plug moded a nes piece from clear blister plastic Cardboard backing with CA reinforcement... took a few tries as usual but works well enought for such small parts. More sanding needed but much better I added a few more details to the interior, i didn't go all the way, as not much can be seen trough the canopy. i'll save that for the airfix kit. For the interior green i started with a much darker green and than came in with a dusting for a much lighter shade followed with an enamel wash since i had some color left i sprayed most of the top as well, it gives an impression of the final color and to play with the wing shading And that's where we are right now
    5 points
  45. Hi Guys, I will be trying to build the Trumpeter 1/48 RA-5C Vigilante with some goodies on it. The pictures will show you what I mean. the box top the content the extra goodies. and some different decals. I hope to start it soon. That is it for now. Cheers,
    5 points
  46. When I win the lottery*, the first things I'll buy will be a Universal Carrier and a Boys anti-tank rifle. I shall cruise around my country estate** in the carrier, blank rounds loaded in the Boys, and terrorise any Axis-looking rabbits that cross my path. Until then, I'll have to settle for building a Boys equipped carrier in 1:72 for this GB. Here it is: The artist has copied the photo below for the box art. I love the way he's added explosions and a burning vehicle for dramatic effect, but hasn't changed the bored looking Ivan in the centre: Now as far as I'm concerned, when you take the bren gun out of the front of a bren gun carrier and replace it with an anti-tank rifle, what you've done is to create a little tank destroyer. Tracks - check. Armour - check. Open top - check. Limited traverse gun designed for AP - check. Sounds like a tank destroyer to me. The Boys in the form fitted in the carriers was really of no use for anything except engaging light tanks. It fired a .55in armour piercing round that would penetrate Panzer I's and II's, the Japanese Ha-Go, T26's and the like at ranges of 100m or so. But it had only fixed iron sights (or two position iron sights with a redundant near/far lever to switch positions) so it couldn't be aimed with any accuracy at targets much beyond its effective range against armour. Against infantry and soft skinned vehicles you'd be better off using a bren for volume of fire, or an SMLE for accuracy. And while the bren gun carrier was not considered a fighting vehicle as the intention was that it would only transport the bren team, who would dismount with the bren gun before engaging the enemy, the Boys equipped universal carrier was considered a fighting vehicle and the Boys was to be used while still fitted in the front weapon slot (although dismounting it was an option). Now I know what some of you are thinking. Despite the points above, you're thinking Mr Trickyrich has been a bit lax in letting this one through, that it's not a proper tank buster. Well I've got news for you: the Boys and radio equipped carrier was officially designated the Scout Carrier and was issued to scout platoons for the purpose of reconnaissance, ha! @trickyrich has noted that you wouldn't want to come across a Tiger in one of these, and that observation prompted the SYWWTGTWI GB chat which you're very welcome to join. But while it's a terrible idea to take on a Tiger with an AT rifle, that doesn't mean people didn't try. Take a look at the vision slots on this Tiger cupola! . Next post will involve building some stuff. KBO, Churchill. * admittedly improbable, and all the more so given that I never buy tickets. ** third on the shopping list.
    5 points
  47. Model OOB, resin with PE, litle riveting and added some wires. Camo - feldfebel Jordan Ferdinandov -flying school Dolna Metropolija/Bulgaria - 30 march 1944. They only one battle mission of Avia - interception (formation 4 Avia's) 400 american bombers during mission over Sofia.
    5 points
  48. Gallery photos just in case anyone hasn't seen it there. All the best Ben
    5 points
  49. Ah. Wartime. Rationing and times of severe austerity. Making do and all that. So long ago. These days he'd probably be asked to supply his own cushion, and by the way do you have £50 to help with the Avgas?
    5 points
  50. Here is my 1:144 Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-25RU "Foxbat C" which I built back in 2006. It's a home-made conversion of the Academy/Minicraft kit of the "Foxbat A" into a two-seater "Foxbat C". The second canopy (the front one) came from a scrapped Revell MiG-25. Apart from obviously making the second cockpit, and actually making little cockpits (there is none in the kit), I had to reshape the nose and I was very pleased I got it right. Unfortunately, the Acad./Mini. canopy has the wrong shape being too tall and short. I tried to get it closer to shape by sanding it and polished it afterwards. The Revell canopy was more accurate just being a bit too low. Otherwise, I corrected the wing fences, the inner ones being completely replaced and the outer ones sanded lower. The wingtip pods were also reworked. Other details were also thinned, reworked or added. The kit was fully painted by brush with only varnish being applied by airbrush. The bort number came from my decal spares box with the stars were those of the kit itself. Thank you for looking. All comments are welcome. Miguel
    5 points
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