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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/10/18 in all areas

  1. 27 points
    Here are some shots of my recent Hurricane conversion. The base kit was a clear-moulded 1/144 Mk I from Sweet with lengthened nose, and scratchbuilt prop, spinner, canopy, cannons and later style exhausts etc etc. Painting is with Mr Color lacquers and weathered with oils and Pergamino .5mm pale grey pencil. Hope you like it!
  2. 27 points
    Hi everyone, This is a 1/48 F-104C Starfighter built as the rather colourful 'Really George' aircraft from the 479 TFW at George AFB. The kit is the nicely detailed Hasegawa version with 2 exquisite Aim-9Bs added from Eduard. This was my first attempt at a NMF finish so I went with Alclad paints which behaved very well over a gloss black finish. You do have to be very pedantic about the surface finish though as blemishes are difficult to hide. I toned down the rivet detail on the wings a bit and then decided to make things really easy by adding some internal lighting. This was quite a challenge as the F-104 is not a large aircraft and at 1/48 scale there's not a lot of room for wires, batteries and lights! Anyway, onto the photos: Many thanks for looking!
  3. 20 points
    Recently finished these two after a bit of inspiration reading Valiant Wings North Africa campaign book. No issues with either build, all OOB and painted with Vallejo model air. Kittyhawk from Special Hobby was a joy to build, first Special Hobby kit and it was great.
  4. 15 points
    Latest Build. Mark DSCN3208 (3) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3209 (3) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3210 (3) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3211 (3) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3212 (3) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3213 (3) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3214 (3) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3215 (3) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3216 (3) by mwsfly9, on Flickr DSCN3217 (3) by mwsfly9, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1960/45135647401_380472750e_k.jpg]DSCN3220 (3) by mwsfly9, on Flickr f458_k.jpg[/img][/url]DSCN3218 (2) by mwsfly9, on FlickrDSCN3221 (3) by mwsfly9, on FlickrDSCN3219 (4) by mwsfly9, on FlickrDSCN3205 by mwsfly9, on Flickr
  5. 14 points
    Hi folks. Ever since gawping open mouthed at Mike Grant's lovely DH-2, in a prior issue of Airfix Model World, I've nursed an ambition to have a go at the trompe l'oeil effect Mike expertly rendered, giving the illusion of a semi translucent wing, revealing some sight of the structures within. The superb taube from Wingnut seemed a perfect foil to try a little French 'slight of airbrush'. First thing that whacks you in the kisser, when you lift the lid is the amazing moulding achievements in the wings. Backlighting here reveals the wafer thin flexing 'aileron' portion and the 'fingers' within. The tank in the forward cockpit was a fair target for abuse; here 'worn effects' liquid, some brush scrubbing and heat from a hairdryer distressed, cracked and flaked the top colour. A little clear varnish was misted over to gently 'fix' the damaged paint. The fully assembled and rigged interior includes a portion of the lower fuselage. As per other WW kits it's a snug fit but correctly aligned, it all slots in. The trompe l'oeil paint, viewed from above the inverted model... ...and then as nature intended. The build guide had a couple of period images that revealed the 'turned' cowling in the way depicted here, so the WW methodology was bypassed for a homespun approach that mimicked the photographs without dependency on the direction of the light. While the taube is a rigging junkie's dream, I recognise it may, at the same time, dissuade others from taking the plunge because of the perceived complexity. No need to fear it though, if you apply a few basic rules - rig the fuselage first, leaving the wings off until that's done / add the wings and rig the lowers first / rig the top sections / do all the rigging from the centre first, working outwards / use wire eyelets, tiny sections of brass tube and elastic rigging thread for safe, dependable lines and anchors / . Always a huge buzz to see your latest in print and you'll find the nine page coverage of the taube in the latest (November) issue of Airfix Model World. Wish you all well with your own projects! Till next time. Steve
  6. 13 points
    My first exhibit for Britmodeller is a Boeing P-26A of the 17th Pursuit Group's headquarter section, possibly the personal mount of the Deputy Group Commander, based at March Field, CA in the spring of 1935, shortly before the Peashooters were handed over to the 20th PG and the group became the 17th Attack Group. I decided to do a little upgrading on the otherwise fairly good Hobbycraft kit. Besides installing a Vector R-1340 engine and cockpit detail parts from Eduard (48 265) and Starfighter Decals (4001), I replaced the prop blades (too short), the wheels (too narrow), the windscreen (too thick) and added hollow blast tubes, new carburettor intakes and a few more things. The following pictures show two other modifications: the additional coverings around the rear of the cylinders and the gap between elevator and stabilizer (I removed, sanded and re-attached the elevators). To attach the rigging wires to the undercarriage I drilled through the fairings, rebuilt the tips with paper jackets and, after assembly, pulled Griffin Jewelry Wire through the wheel spats. (Two different grades of wire were used on the Peashooter). This method necessitated an unusual approach of installing the wheels later. There is a couple of bugs that I spotted too late and didn't correct. The engine face plate appears a trifle too small, but it's a very nice piece and I wouldn't know how to change it apart from vacu-forming a completely new one. In hindsight it would have been easy to adjust the second small error, which is the position of the upper cable fairings on the inside of the wheel spats. They should be higher up towards the wing than shown in the instructions to have the wires go across more symmetrically. All 17th PG markings are home-made since they are not represented well on any decal sheet. Likewise, the available underwing 'ARMY' inscription, which is too wide across the span, needed to be applied letter by letter with less space in-between. Unfortunately my printer's color cartridge failed when I printed the 17th PG crest and I didn't get the texture as clear as I wanted. I thought the Matchbox 1930 Packard Victoria in 1/43 is an amusing compliment to give a feeling for the era. You will notice the modified front. When I was 13 years old my father accidentally stepped on the car and broke the headlights - big tragedy! I hope you enjoy the pictures and my experience with the Hobbycraft kit is useful. Happy modelling! Michael References Boeing P-26A, Profile Publications No.14, Peter M. Bowers, Leatherhead Air Corps, J. V. Mizrahi, Northridge, 1970 Boeing P-26 "Peashooter", Aero Series No.22, Edward T. Maloney, Fallbrook, 1973 Boeing P-26 Variants, Aerofax Minigraph 8, Peter Bowers, Arlington, 1984 P-26, Mini in Action No.2, Larry Davis, Squadron Signal Publications, Carrollton, 1994 The Official Monogram US Army Air Service & Air Corps Aircraft Color Guide Vol.1, Robert D. Archer, Sturbridge, 1995
  7. 11 points
    Apparently, I cannot pull myself away from Czech short run kits. Even in the midst of building the superb 1:32 Tamiya Spitfire, where the parts actually fit together (sometimes without the need for glue - engineered molecular adhesion perhaps?), I find myself yearning for those halcyon days of putty and sandpaper and razor saws and bandages and cursing. Oh, and beer. So here we have the AZ Model kit of the Supermarine Attacker in glorious braille scale. For those obsessed with such things, I have personally verified that this entire kit has fewer parts than the big Tamiya Spitfire rudder pedal assembly. Or nearly so anyway. The kit I have is nominally for the post-navalisation prototype and FB.1 versions of the aircraft, and comes in one of those kind of boxes that bring forth expletives from the most God-fearing of men. And here it is: There are only two sprues of plastic, plus the clear canopy and a one-piece(!) resin cockpit. It would appear that all the parts are here for the FB.2 version with the exception of the canopy. The part included in this kit is the original canopy, prior to the addition of extra framework. But framework can be painted on, so I think I can use this one should I build the FB.2. Which I might do, assuming this old Modeldecal sheet I have is still good. Along with those stickers, I also have the Airwaves photoetch set. The photoetch is designed for the Frog kit, but let's face it - Airwaves PE usually doesn't fit the kit it's intended for, so I figure I have a fighting chance it may fit a kit it's not designed for. Besides, I think I should fold the wings. I started cleaning up the parts and having a look at the instruction sheet (silly knave!) and immediately discovered that step number one is wrong. As in, they have you install the part in absolutely the wrong place. I'll take some photos and show you what I mean. Ah, short run kits...AZ is re-releasing this kit soon, and it will be interesting to see if they fix this rather egregious error. So this is my side project while the paint dries on the big Spit. My FAA collection needs more members, and this one should slot nicely in-between the Seafire and Scimitar. Which reminds me, I don't have a Seafire! Long live Extra Dark Sea Grey. Cheers, Bill
  8. 11 points
    Afternoon All The Panther/M10 was part of an attempted ruse by the German Panzer Brigade 150 during the Ardennes Offensive, later known as the Battle of the Bulge. Unfortunately for them it was unsuccessful and the Panther/M10's were knocked out. Private Francis Currey of the US 120th regiment received the Congressional Medal of Honor after he managed to knock one of the tanks out with a Bazooka. This is dragons 1/72 Panther/M10 hybrid. Not a lot of parts involved really as the M10 'shell' covers a lot of the normal panther parts. Kit was built OOB apart from the below additions: 1. I replaced grab handles and lifting points with two gauges of fuse wire for added effect. 2. Cut mesh covers for the square engine deck ventilation panels. 3. Replaced turret top crossbars with plastic rod. 4. Replicated bow turret cover with thin clear sheet. I ran into trouble with the tracks as they were very stiff, snapping into 1cm bits. Usually Dragon DS tracks are fantastic but appears these had been affected by an accidental spill of some type of solvent. I brought another old Dragon Panther purely for the tracks, the model being scrapped for parts as it was their steel hull brand. A worthy sacrifice. Paints used: Mr Color Lacquers & Tamiya enamels. Weathering: AK Interactive enamel panel washes & streak/grime/track wash. MIG pigments dry earth. Chipping/wear done with Tamiya German grey dabbed with a sponge & artists pencil for metal look in high foot traffic areas. Exhaust rust recreated with Tamiya flat brown, AK exhaust stains & MIG rust pigment. Enjoy
  9. 10 points
    Hello, I'm new here! I had the good fortune to discover Britmodeller recently and have been reading my way through all the fantastic builds, reviews and discussions presented here. I've been so impressed and inspired by all your talent, humour, enthusiasm, insights and cups of tea that I thought I'd sign up perhaps try to take part in some small way. I didn't want to show up to the party empty handed however, so I thought I'd show some of what I'm working on at the moment. I should probably come out with it straight away and say that I'm rather into 1/144 - for better or for worse! The scale has come a long way since the bad old days of Crown and Revell micro wings. There's some great stuff out there nowadays. Although sometimes things do take the odd step backwards... They say misery loves company. So here's my Zvezda 1/144 Fairey Battle. ********************** I've been cracking on with this for a good long while now, so I'll break it up into a separate posts to get things up to speed. I've always loved the Battle. It was on my wishlist of Airfix kits as a nipper but never seemed to appear in the shops round here. Decades later, and I was still wanting one. When the Zvezda kit arrived I snatched one up quick, hoping for a fast and accurate build. Instead I got a Monopoly counter. A wargamer's piece that could be assembled in minutes and was best admired by setting it upon a broad table, and standing arms folded and well back! So... Have at it I said. The first thing I did was to sand off the fabric effect from the rear fuselage. The Battle is an all-metal aircraft and only the control surfaces were fabric covered. Once that was done I shaved down the location lugs inside the fuselage to give them a loose fit. It makes it much handier to open and close the two halves doing a lot of test fitting and measuring. The measuring is where things began to get a little out of control. Using Richard J Caruana's scale drawings and a lot of photographs I was able to start taking spot dimensions to check accuracy of the kit. As I went I found that there were quite a few key areas where Zvezda's Battle was coming up short. A little later I also obtained some slightly better drawings by Kenneth Merrick and was able to use these too. Starting out with the fuselage, I took the position of the leading edge of the wing as a sort of datum and began checking everything from there. The length of the nose was good. The position of the forward canopy was just a shade too far forward and easily corrected. The sides of the pilots cockpit were cut too low and needed some work to build them back up. The decking behind the cockpit was meant to be curved rather than flat. These things seemed fairly straightforward and I planned to make a new canopy so I wasn't all that concerned. The further back I went the more serious things became however. The rear fuselage was short be about 2.2mm. Good enough for 144th is a phrase I never liked. It's the same as saying 9mm is near enough for 1/32. Imagine if Tamiya were out by that much on one of their Spitfires. People would be howling! I was able to trace the fault to the area between the two cockpits. Adding a spacer there would make the observers position the correct length when complete too. Below are a few shots of the build thus far. The plan is to open up the cockpits and show them with a new set of canopy pieces in the open position. The cockpits have been cut out and given a more accurate outline. A temporary decking piece is in place (I later decided to make this from brass) and I've started doing the setout for the rear cockpit opening. By now I was getting nervous every time I got the calipers out. The cowling was too sharp. The tailplane too short. The wingspan was pretty good and I didn't think to look much further than that. Later I discovered that the chord of the wings was just over 1mm too narrow. It's that slab of a wing that is one of the key features which really identifies the Battle, so I resigned myself to having to fix it. Shortly after that I also found that the wings sweep back too steeply by about 2mm at the wingtips. Add to that a number of serious issues with the underside of the wings, and I very nearly put the whole lot in the bin at that point. Eventually though I plucked up some courage and got out my trusty jewellers saw. I cut the wings down the centre, then scored the wings at the position of the undercarriage (the width of these is correct for 1/72 by the way) and bent the leading edges until they pivoted forward. After that I added strips of styrene to get the wings to the correct width. Getting there... After all that I began work on the rear cockpit area. I thinned down the sidewalls of the fuselage and corresponding area between the wings so much that I began to break out in a sweat. I couldn't just detail the side walls of the fuselage as the wing root joint would be much too visible from inside. Instead I made a U-shaped tub from brass that fitted up under the sill of the cockpit aperture. I added a floor and some sidewall structure from styrene and sprue. The first try at this was a little too shallow for the plethora of Vickers drums and other equipment, so I thinned things down even further and made a new-improved tub that looked much better than the first (took a quarter of the time too!). Lots of priming and putty followed in order to correct the fuselage profiles. The decking between cockpits was cut from brass and the holes drilled and widened with the tip of a scalpel. Cutouts for landing lights were made, and various other fiddly bits. I'll leave it there for now. I hope you like it. I'll add some more soon. Thank you all!
  10. 10 points
    This has to be my favorite tank by far. It's been in my heart since I was a wee Tempest reading the inspiring stories in Commando Comics. GOD they were so cool, they still are. Tiger Shoot was No. 2234 and revolved around a Churchill AVRE called Bessie Two. Commanded by Lt Jack Greywith, Pvt Fred Smith his Gunner, Cpl Harry Roberts his driver and Pvt Bill Stacey his radio op. Caught behind an advancing enemy attack during the Ardennes Offensive, they are forced to set up an ambush against a Tiger I which they eventually take out with a well placed 40 pound petard shot. Kit is from Dragons excellent Churchill series and makes up a Mk.IV AVRE Combat Engine in fine detail. They also do a Mk.III AVRE with the more squared turret. Fit is excellent with some putty needed to smooth the turret top & bottom. The petard assembly is a little fiddly and I hollowed out the barrel a bit more. Patience is recommended as it can be a bit fragile but solid once fitted. Recommend Tamiya thin to adhere the machine gun barrel to it's shield, this helps strengthen it. Kit was painted green base colour then bottom over painted with Mr Color RAF dark earth. An overall filter wash with Tamiya panel liner was used though I'm not entirely a fan of it. I then weathering with AK dust & dirt deposits, MIG dry earth pigments. chipping was simulated using Tamiya German Grey & Dark Brown sponged on around the edges with artists pencil for metal wear. Exhaust collector & opening was painted Dark Brown then treated with Humbrol soot & rust pigments. A thin wash of AK Interactive rust effect was run over it, brushing lightly when dry to remove the excess, leaving an excellent rusted effect. Would I recommend this kit? Aww heck yea. Dragon 1/72 armor is king. Kit: Dragon Armour Pro Churchill Mk.IV AVRE Paints: Mr Color lacquers mixed to match Weathering: AK Interactive, MIG Pigments, Humbrol powders, Tamiya panel wash Photos: Samsung phone with to much light exposure :c
  11. 10 points
    Hello all, Here is another recently completed group build entry this time for the P-47 GB; Tamiya's quite excellent OOB 1/48 Republic P-47D Thunderbolt "Bubbletop" the only additions I made were with some Eduard PE cockpit details and general placards, some additional detail to the engine and a scratch built bomb lift trolley. The model is built using the kit decals and represents an aircraft of the 78th Fighter Group's 84th (WZ) Fighter squadron based at Duxford in 1944. In the end I decided I didn't want to ruin the NMF which I was quite pleased with by varnishing the whole thing, so I picked out only the decals with some thinned Winsor & Newton Galleria acrylic varnish and I think it worked reasonably well. Another very enjoyable group build, and thank you to the hosts. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Mark .
  12. 9 points
    Hello everyone, my latest build of Eduard 1/48 Bell X-1 Mach buster. Eduard Profipack kit, scratch build nose pitot tube and wing tubes, minor scratchbuilding in wheel wells. Painted with Tamiya and Gunze acrylics, AK Interactive Extrememetall and Florymodels washes Pretty basic kit with no general fit issues. Only problem were decals which are very thin and I damaged one on tail. Fortunately Eduard support was great and they send me a spare decal sheet, free of charge . Also decided to cut flaps and put them on lower position as seen on reference photos. For every build I make custom display case with nameplate... fully made in my workshop I hope you like the result.
  13. 9 points
    I totally forgot to give an update on this: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235024842-scrambled-eggs/ Three models that started as the short nosed FW190A Right now I'm trying to finish 12 Hasegawa eggplanes.
  14. 9 points
    Thanks so much! I do love the scale. 1/144 has an unfortunate reputation as being an unbuildable novelty. However when things come together well the effect can be quite wonderful. Its like a small, heavily armed butterfly just landed on your desk. Here's some more. The WOP/AG position and area forward into the bomb aimer's spot were detailed a bit further with parachute and seat. The wireless equipment was added to the rear as well, although this is only barely visible in the sealed fuselage. To get the correctly sized interior fittings to locate accurately I had to thin down the fuselage to the point where the plastic became paper thin. I was able to make good on this later when the fuselage was joined together by sealing it up with superglue and flushing everything in. The Zvezda wheelwells were incorrect too. The width was accurate for a 1/72 model, so I boxed these in to the correct dimensions. Up to this point, I had been relying quite heavily on the drawings of Richard J Caruana. After following them very closely for the first half of the build, I then compared them to photographs and Merrick's drawings. There were several key areas where things were well out of whack. One of the biggest was the dihedral and I'm so glad I caught it in time! Rather than being equal dihedral top and bottom, the upper wings are raised slightly. I needed to steam the wings and bend them up slightly to make good. Then add some putty to the upper surfaces to restore them to the correct shape. Next was the transparencies and I plug-moulded these from .35mm acrylic sheet. It took a few tries to get the size right. Again I had been using the Caruana drawings for reference, however I later found that these have a great many inaccuracies and I had to rework a lot of components. I was delighted to find I had another set of MAP plans by Kenneth Merrick though, and these turned out to be much better. By this time I decided to switch to the later style of exhausts, and pinched these from a Sweet Hurricane. The temporary prop is borrowed from the spares box, but I decided to make a more detailed one later on. That took me a month hard slog, but by that point I figured I'd established a bit of a bridgehead and was in with a fighting chance. The transparencies are mostly done, aside from some thinning, polishing and final trims. The new 14x piece prop was been made, and the wing is finally attached with a prodigious amount of filler required to tidy everything up. Below are some shots of the main assembly, resting under thickish coat of Tamiya primer. I couldn't resist a bit of period coinage for scale Next up is the scribing.
  15. 9 points
    Well, I went to look through my tape stash and realized I don't have any 4mm tape to do the 12" stripes; I have 3mm tape, if I wanted to do 9" stripes, but I'm sure that's not right, so I've ordered several candidates, which should start arriving Monday. Until then, can't really paint and mask the stripes. I did the sky band, though: 20181006_152347 by Edward IX, on Flickr And the spinner: 20181006_152511 by Edward IX, on Flickr And promptly walked my airbrush hose into the spinner, marring the paint. Rrrrgh. Will have to see how bad it looks once it dries. I've also spent a little time with Pumpkin Man, who appears in our house every October, for as long as the costume fits: 20181006_143938 by Edward IX, on Flickr
  16. 9 points
    Dry fitting for close up. Hmmm. The instructions would have you mount the floor sort of under the frame, a bit like this: Flickr …but then I don't think it will stay there on closing up: Front and back cockpits there. Doesn't look as though the extra frame bits join up either. Hmmm. I'd better stick the radio table on before I go much further: I'm getting used to the quick setting TET. If you hold the parts together, apply the cement and press a little you can see the stuff flash off almost immediately and it grips quickly. Nice. While the table was drying I fitted the cockpit floor and ran TET down one side: That shows that you shouldn't take close up photos at this scale. Ahem. I hope the i/p fits - we shall see - but that's used up my patience for today.
  17. 8 points
    Afternoon all, Here is my recently completed entry for the ongoing, very enjoyable and massively well supported Airfix the Golden Years Group Build. Kudos to @Rabbit Leader and co hosts for organising such a successful GB. Anyway my first completion for the GB is Airfix's 1975 M.R.C.A Multi Role Combat Aircraft Tornado in the guise of the German P.01 D9591 shown on it's first flight on August 14th 1974 from Manching Air Base, Germany. I have built the kit with an approximation of dropped flaps/slats. I had to modify the head boxes of the ejections seats, 'cos they just looked silly! The decals are partly the kit supplied and my own home print. The undercarriage has been extended to represent the in-flight relaxed position, surprisingly the most fiddly part of the kit is the main undercarriage doors which do not have any way of attachment so I added a bit of plastic rod in the rough position of the door retraction arm as a sort of stay. The display base is just a bit of MDF I had, a home made motion blurred runway effect done in Corel Photopaint and some acrylic rod with afterburner decals (Corel Photopaint again) 3 layered on each side and slightly misaligned. I thoroughly enjoyed making this old kit as I remember making it when I was a nipper, well younger anyway, hope you like it, thanks for looking. Cheers, Mark.
  18. 8 points
    Hiya Folks,.... another update,...... I`ve got the decals on and next stage is to tidy up the invasion stripes; Cheers, Tony
  19. 8 points
    Tried both hendie but with mixed results (see below).... They did Giorgio. As they're just a 'skin'of residue that gets caught in the crannies, a few minutes soaking in some isopropyl alcohol and a scrub with a toothbrush removes the remaining gunk. A troubleshooting day rather than a massive step forwards but valuable experience nonetheless. A large chunk of time went initially on cleaning up the kit cowling as both sides had a pronounced 'lip' that had to be removed not just from the ring but from all those blooming blisters as well: I only need one for the final display thankfully, and did remember to scribe the panel separation lines in the right place on either side. Patent cowling-scribing jig: The spirit of Heath Robinson endureth..... Once this was spruced-up sufficiently it was on with the oven and out with the vacform rig. I'd harboured concerns about the effect those 'blisters' around the cowling were going to have, and as you can see here, 'starring' proved a major problem: I then spent about two hours trying varying grades of plastic from very thin to very thick, and raised up off the vacform surface from just a tiny amount to quite high, but to no avail. Front side down was if anything even more of a problem. Even heating up the plastic on high until it wasveeerrrry very thin and wobbly in the oven produced no better result. Each time those blisters compromised the pull. After some lunch and an afternoon nap I came back down and simply carried on with my original intention - to whit, hollowing-out the kit cowling with various shapes of birr in the Dremel: With the walls thinned I then split the cylinder and went at it from the inside with a small bulbous birr in order to carve out the blisters from the inside: I've popped the finished top part onto the original E&T Cheetah here for as proof of principle - in fact it will be the resin copy I've made of it that will eventually go inside this cowling so to finesse it in I can simply sand a little off those valve rocker covers on the tips of the cylinder bits, due to the fact that that particular detail will be hidden by the inside of the cowling. Job done. As to the resin copy itself - the front and rear have been sanded down flush and the two halves glued together (using GG): Since taking that photo I've also epoxied a cast of the rear geary/carbuurettory bits that stick out the back as well. Won't be seen of course but willgive me some structure to mount it into the nacelle. I'll pick the last remaining recalcitrant bits of plasticine out with a pin tomorrow when the glue's cured and sand down any remaining seams, then a test fist closing-up the cowling around it. There's some nice little bits of filligree stuff to drape over the engine in the Flightpath set but I need to have a closer look to see whether or not it duplicates already existing features in the original E&T moulding, which is of high quality already. Well, things didn't go quite according to plan but another vote of confidence in the Dremel/birr combination. Have a nicve evening all of you. I'm off to take some enchiladas out of the oven and then settle down with a Martini to watch an episode of the Fry/Laurie Jeeves & Wooster series. Indubitably. Tony
  20. 7 points
    Hello mates, here something brand new. This is my little swallow i fell in love with at Nuremberg Toy Fair. Tamiya 1:72. Started on July 05, 2018, finished on September 30, 2018. There are wheels, some etch, masks and exhausts from eduard, as well as the extra separate decals from the house. This was pure fun to build! Cheers, Tom
  21. 7 points
    Moving on to the last few details. Some of the doors have ribs, some don’t, and those that do have some ribs missing because of ejector pins. So I’m using stretched sprue to add them all: Thanks for looking, Adrian
  22. 7 points
  23. 7 points
    More of a point, what kind of freak doesn’t have a Seafire? Mind you, if you’re filling the slot between Seafire & Scimitar, there are a couple of doozies to add: Sea Hornet (sublime), Firebrand (dog), Sea Venom... Got me, too.
  24. 7 points
    Finished at last. Vertol 107-11
  25. 7 points
    At last I've got one finished, definitely behind the drag curve! there are certainly some prolific modellers in this GB!! Anyway here is the 1975 Airfix MRCA Prototonka in the guise of the German P.01 D9591 shown on it's first flight on August 14th 1974 from Manching Air Base, Germany. I have built the kit with an approximation of dropped flaps/slats. I had to modify the head boxes of the ejections seats, 'cos they just looked silly! The decals are partly the kit supplied and my own home print. The undercarriage has been extended to represent the in-flight relaxed position, surprisingly the most fiddly part of the kit is the main undercarriage doors which do not have any way of attachment so I added a bit of plastic rod in the rough position of the door retraction arm as a sort of stay. The display base is just a bit of MDF I had, a home made motion blurred runway effect done in Corel Photopaint and some acrylic rod with afterburner decals (Corel Photopaint again) 3 layered on each side and slightly misaligned. Thank you to the hosts for a very well organised GB which I thoroughly enjoyed along with the kit...... well done to all, have a rest, you deserve it. Hope you like it. Cheers, Mark.