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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/05/2018 in all areas

  1. Hi all members on Britmodeller. I like to show you my Swedish Heli, HKP 10 Super Puma. The model is Italeri and I have used Eduards photoetch, I have scratch built many things that are used on a Swedish Heli, Like the search lights and the reserve rescue winch. I have also scratch built the entrance steps that is way out of scale from box, The last part that I´ve scratch built was the exhaust ports, they where too small out of box. Some antennas and wirings are added too Well, enough said, Enjoy the pics. Feel free to comment.
    28 points
  2. Thanks Ian - or should it be Madame Lenormand... don't forget your crystal balls (fnaar!) Thanks Tony Wasn't me, I always use a coaster. I'm a good boy I am Thanks Chris, I knew you'd come up with the goods Thanks Roger, very kind Thanks Bill The things Doctors and Nurses wear? Fishnets? A bit of time before sleep. I have had one glass of wine. Nice it was. To what use can I put this 'Dutch Courage'? I know, I'll get rid of the windows on the canopy: Luckily they're raised so I can Micro-mesh them off. See? What do you mean scratches? Courage mon brave, the tools are to hand: When doing this I always remind myself that I'm polishing, not sanding, so it's a light touch. Down through the grades using each at 90o to the last (roughly) and soon: Note that it doesn't remove hairs - you have to do that yourself. Now I just need somewhere safe to put it. Why not here: The canopy fit is AMAZING - I had to wiggle it in with some Gator's Grip (just to be sure) but I don't think it'll need any more attention. One day all kits will be like this. I wish. Bubble fitted and we're ready for masking tomorrow:
    20 points
  3. Hi everyone, Finished this persian cat today. Fujimi´s Tomcat in iranian colors, painted with Gunze paints and wheatered with AK Interactive and AMMO by Mig washes and pigments. Hope you like it. Cheers, Bruno
    14 points
  4. 12 points
  5. Old decent Airfix. Perfect for picking, -) I just like picking, so freestyle, -) I want to make a plane with dismantled the top of the landing gear cover . Few photos from my picking Up side of fusulage Holes for landing gear and flaps And landing gear, very imported element of this model ,-)
    11 points
  6. Hello guys, This is my old F-102A Hasegawa when i was a (nine-)teen (and fast, cant remember, but i noted the dates on the surviving instruction sheet). Started on January 17, 1979. Finished on February 20, 1979. The weathering is a 10 year old "restoration", was a bit bitten by oilophile microbs and makrobs, so polishing didnt work, sanding and partly new color did... Cheers Tom
    11 points
  7. I build not only modern jet fighters but also WW2 aircraft. This is the 1/72 scale flying tank from Academy. More at: https://www.facebook.com/myanmarairmodeller/
    11 points
  8. In my opinion the Harrier was one of the greatest aircraft of all time, with its revolutionary design and brilliant (British) engineering leading the way which has only now been followed by the costly, troubled and prohibitively expensive F-35. Not only did the Harrier serve with distinction for over 40 years, it helped ensure the freedom of UK citizens on the Falklands and fought for freedom in the middle east, before our short-sighted, penny-pinching and ignorant politicians prematurely retired what is still a vastly capable aircraft. One of the first batch of Harriers to enter service, XV748 was delivered to the RAF's Harrier OCU in May 1969, before transferring to number 1 squadron at Wittering. It was converted to a GR.3 in July 1974, and survives to this day at the Yorkshire air museum, Elvington. This new tool Airfix kit is absolutely superb, and highly recommended! Parts fit together really well and the attention to detail and accuracy is fantastic. The model is built OOB except for the slight serial change to represent a Harrier that still survives. (If anyone knows what tail code XV748 wore with 1 squadron please can you let me know?!)
    10 points
  9. Thanks again folks. The seatery continues but first, some li'l Wessi update. Handles, for the tail climbing up of. There's two of them mounted on the tail and italeri provide scale sized scaffolding handles - they're not going on this little whirlygig thingy. Out with the carbide drills again, actually the last of them so I must order again soon. The aluminum tape was there as a guide to aid me getting the same height on port and starboard sides... it worked, mostly. Both handles now in place. The lower handle is a bit too close to the stabilizer but there wasn't much room left between the stabilizer and the mesh - italeri made their 'opening' too large. C'est la vie. Still one more handle to go there - juts forward of the break. I also added the small fillet strip just above the stabilizer from aluminum tape. Now, an interesting feature of the italeri kit is that it is impossible to fit the electrical cover blow the cockpit windows due to this monstrosity of a step. If you fit the cover forward of the step it protrudes way too far forward. If you fit it under the step, you can't fit the oleo's. Nice one italeri. I was sure I had taken a photo to illustrate the fact but the camera must have been hungry and swallowed it whole. Step removed and first cover fitted. I like to use tape when gluing fine detail as it prevents glue getting everywhere due to my general cludginess. Unfortunately, it doesn't prevent Tamiya extra thin getting everywhere as it wicks under the tape! Not a big deal but something to beware of in future. A little bit of micro-meshing will take care of that. I also spotted while fitting the electrical cover that italeri have got the cooling vent and louvers out of position. Both are too far forward on that access panel. I did toy briefly with the idea of filling the hole and redoing it, but we're out-of-the-box warts'n'all on this build... remember! Then I found another 'doh! moment. We have the upper locating hole for mounting the oleo's, but where does the bottom mounting point go? I guess I should have read the instructions and drilled that as per italeri's guidance earlier in the build. That had me flummoxed for a few minutes until I remembered that this is a kit bash and I have another fuselage lying over on the bench. Ah... that makes it a lot easier now doesn't it? Last up on li'l Wessi - the gaping orifice up front. I looked at it for a while then thought - what happens if I just sand the sides? Well, this apparently. (left sanded, right original italeri) It looks like I can reduce the width and general grouper like gaping mouth look by removing some plastic from the sides - at least that's the current intention. We'll see where that ends up in a few posts. Now onto big Wessi. More seatery. This time the starboard side seating - as before, glue the seating into the floor, and hey presto, more photo's seem to have been digested by the ravenous olympus.... I was sure I had taken a photo of this part but it ain't anywhere to be found. The problem to overcome was to have the starboard upper rail (the bit the seat webbings get clipped onto) nice and secure. Drilling a hole through the bulkhead lets you get the rod in position but doesn't hold it very securely. My workaround for this was to glue some tubing on the reverse face of the bulkhead which can just be seen on the back side here. This provides a greater grip on the rod and positions it nicely for the work ahead. So, all seats fitted, the small webbing clips represented by a dash of interior green and we're good to go. After all those months of work, this is about as much as can be seen from the outside. Worth every blood sweating minute of effort wasn't it? and with that I think I am almost ready to button this thing up.. and then try to figure out what on earth I am doing with the rest of it. (Still don't like Fly's main rotor gearbox - it just doesn't look right to me) joi gin pengyou
    10 points
  10. Whilst patrolling in the South China Sea the USS Lexington encounters a new Japanese terror weapon - the Kamikaze Duck! This was a fun project and made a change to my normal subjects. Mick
    9 points
  11. The airplane was flown by Polish pilots in one of the Polish Training Units: - Centrum Wyszkolenia Lotnictwa - Lyon-Bron, - ośrodku szkoleniowym - Clermont Ferrand, - ośrodku szkoleniowym - Istres, - Oddziale Wyszkolenia w Powietrzu - Corbas, - ośrodku szkoleniowym - Salon, - Centrum Wyszkolenia - Rennes, - Szkole Pilotażu nr 101 (Ecole de Pilotage No 101) - St Cyr. The registration at wing bottom is painted.
    9 points
  12. Here's my recent conversion of the 1:72 Pegasus Airco DH.4 into the passenger carrying DH.4A from Instone Air Lines. The original gained fame for winning the very King's Cup. An article on the conversion will appear in one of the upcoming issues of SAMI. I hope you like it! Peter
    9 points
  13. Another update! Twice in one night, at my age, with my reputation? 20180604_223532 by Edward IX, on Flickr 20180604_223601 by Edward IX, on Flickr The first aircraft's cockpit PE is finished, complete with compass long thing protruding from lower fuselage. Mrs P and the children decamp to Michigan for ten wonderful days on Wednesday, so I have one more day of dull care and then hopefully we can really get moving.
    9 points
  14. Another long-term stash lurker. I think I bought it at a Woodford air show in 1997. Not a particularly difficult build but its sheer size made construction and painting difficult. Careful dry-fitting meant I didn't have too many problem with fit, a bit of sanding and filling but nothing too serious. As it wouldn't fit in the spray booth, I had to wait on a calm dry day to spray with Halfords Appliance White. I ended up with a bit of an orange-peel finish but not too bad. Decals were few and far between and went on easily. Finished as the first XB-70A 62-0001 as it ended up at NASA. Even photographing the model was difficult due to the size. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
    8 points
  15. Picked up this kit a few months ago, figured I'd use it to try out some new techniques and that kind of thing. Quite a nice kit for the scale, my only complaint would be the flashing that was rather extreme on certain sprues. And this is the photo I was basing it off.
    8 points
  16. Some progress today and lots of frustration. Firstly I started applying the masks, then realised they don't actually fit that well: As I need to add another frame with bare Metal Foil I may as well cover the whole lot and sort it all later: I'm keen to get the primer on to see what the surface is like so I stuck the wings on: What seams? Nice. Sadly the gear doors aren't going to be easy. They fit really well (after the 'hinges' are removed): BUT this isn't a Mk VI. No bulges and only partial doors so surgery is required. The bumps were sawn off: Oh rats, holes. AND what's this: The u/c won't fit in the well, it's too wide. What about just with the wheel? Grrrr. Fill in the holes left under the bumps? I thought that Humbrol (or any filler) would get pushed through while sanding so I cut some spare plastic off the sprue, but then realised the inside of the door was curved so just went ahead and stuck some filler in the holes: We're out tonight so that will get a good chance to dry. I bet it pushes out.
    8 points
  17. 8 points
  18. Not a modelling post, but... I got the job!! Not starting for a couple of months, but thanks for all the vibes you’ve been sending... Hoorah!
    8 points
  19. Hi all, Finally finished... thanks for those looking in on the build thread. It will hopefully appear in ‘Scale Aviation Modeller’ at some point. Thanks for looking, Guy
    7 points
  20. Hi peeps, Here's Special Hobby's new(ish) 1/72 P-40N in the markings of Chinese American Composite Wing ace Wang Kuang Fu: Markings are by Techmod with a bit of jiggery pokery around the intake area as the Sharkmouth doesn't fit that well. I suspect that the decals are designed to fit either the Hasegawa or Academy kits. The decals for the rudder stripes don't fit at all so I ended up having to mask and paint them. I suspected that would probably happen so I took the precuation of painting the kit's rudder white beforehand! Paint is a mixture of Humbrol and Xtracolour and the only aftermarket used was a set of SBS Model 27inch wheels. The RDF loop on the rear fuselage is scratch built. Now for a side-by-side comparison with RNZAAF P-40N I built a few years back using the Academy kit as a basis. Even with a replacement vac-form canopy of the right shape and the Quickboost replacement spinner and prop the SH kit beats it hand down IMHO!! Comments welcome, Mike.
    7 points
  21. Hi again all! Something more up to date, although they are now showing their age! This time the location is RAF Lakenheath, England and shots taken during a press shoot for the visit by the 480th Fighter Squadron. They were resident for at least two weeks while their own runway at Spangdahlem had repairs. The aircraft are Block 50 F-16CMs. As you can see, most were nicely loaded with gear ;). There was one Have Glass machine present (see below). I hope you can take the break from Phantoms! Martin
    7 points
  22. This is my latest build. The kit is a typical Eduard kit. Nice fit, good price, lots of fiddle parts .
    7 points
  23. Working on some details. The nose hatch: Navigator table with the chronometers: Fire extinguisher and raft:
    7 points
  24. Grzegorz, talk about perfect timing! I was down in the grotto looking the kits over when the email notification came through. Thus armed, I drilled out the holes in the flooring: 20180604_200934 by Edward IX, on Flickr 20180604_200946 by Edward IX, on Flickr I've also been applying some of the PE to the Expert kits: 20180604_201004 by Edward IX, on Flickr I'm struggling a little with the cooling jackets, which I suspect I should try annealing. 20180604_201015 by Edward IX, on Flickr
    7 points
  25. It is compass. It is attached to the side, but the long thing on the bottom (something to correct the iron airframe influence on the magnetic needle) sticks through the bottom! (pictures from the Aviattic website)
    7 points
  26. This kit was originally released in 1968, and I can remember making my way to the local bike shop to buy one just as soon as I had saved enough cash from singing in the choir at weddings. It would have been put together that afternoon, along with the obligatory thumb print, and doing circuits around the garden by tea time. It is listed in the 1980 catalogue as a Snap-n-Glue kit, now fast forward to 2011 and it makes another appearance, retaining the snap features. In a fit of nostalgia yours truly is once again spending some of his hard(ly) earned cash on this kit - only this time he adds a RetroKit detail set. Over the next seven years it has visited the 'to start next' pile several times, hence the main parts are off the sprues and some clean up has taken place. I thought that this would be a fun third build for me, and I hope that this time around there will be an end result - minus the thumb print and test flight. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr
    6 points
  27. A fighter aircraft that brings me into scale modeling world!
    6 points
  28. Hi guys As promised the first two scratch built railguns. both were built from plans i drew from photos in books and on the net, i used the bogies from leopold kits for each gun suitably altered to match smaller bogies on these guns the rest is scratched .(You will probably notice they are a lot smaller than the Dora but that was the largest railgun in the world.) The first one is the Schwere Bruno 28cm in service from 1936 to 1938. Second is the Lange Bruno 28 cm built in 1937. Hope you like P S, I build dioramas for all my models to add scale and interest. P P S the barrel is not bent as it is turned aluminium must be way pics been taken. Lang Bruno
    6 points
  29. G'day! An update on building the Machine Gun Turret Travel Limiting Stop Rails. I've made the Stop Rails using .6 mm dia. silver solder wire. I like using the solder as it's extremely easy to cut & form. Care has to taken when handling & gluing bits & pieces of the wire together since it bends so easily. I tried using copper & brass wire & solder, but I can't seem to get good looking solder joints at this small scale. I started forming the main rings for the rails using a socket (from a socket wrench set) wrapped in masking tape to get the correct diameter. I decided to solder the wire ends together for added strength. I don't know how many of you have tried to solder solder, but it's not for the faint-of-heart. After many, many tries, I finally was able to get a good solder joint. For some reason the solder wire wants to melt when you heat it ... go figure! I found the trick is to melt a little solder on the soldering iron, let it cool to just before it solidifies, & then touch the melted solder to the solder wire letting the melted solder weep into the joint. Here's a photo showing one of the completed soldered rings. Using photos, the rail details were formed and glued to the rings. I found that roughing up the wire surface with fine sand paper before applying the CA glue seems to work the best. Once the rings were completed, legs were formed & glued in place. The legs will need to be trimmed before attaching to the turret drums. Finally, The MG mounts were placed into the stop rail assemblies to ensure proper fit. Next up, I'll trim the rail legs to size & glue the rail assemblies to the turrets, before applying coat of primer. Oh & by the way, Iife is good as I fixed the hand rail on the day cabin. Thanks for stopping by. John
    6 points
  30. Hi second model from introduction part..... Well known P-47D from Academy. Out of box, only some correction - shortening about 1mm main lending gears, so now it sits a little better. Model master olive drab, tamiya neutral gray, washes - artistic oil paints, varnish - gunze mat top cote. Only thing missing on pictures is drop tank, still not finished, and light bulb under wing for landing light, applied just after taking pictures. As always pictures not perfect but i hope you will like this model. I enjoyed a lot making it. Regards Djordje
    6 points
  31. Great news Crisp, need to keep the model funds topped-up. That's no way to talk about Crisp.
    6 points
  32. Why thank you sir. What can I say to that? Thank you for your super kind words. Whithout your nudge in the right direction I wouldn’t have had the confidence to start this build in the first place. I’m so proud to talk to friends about swapping thoughts with a flight engineer on the last flying Lancaster in Britain, helping me out over the many months this build is taking. I get the odd. “ You just glue it together right?” Oh if they only knew. without your great pics and pointers this wouldn’t be half as much fun or eye opening for me and for that I thank you again. I’m so looking forward to seeing her fly on Sunday. Beer in hand hopefully. Thanks oh green one. It was such a pain to stick together, glad you like. Thanks. I do have my vinyl collection up here too but it’s a bit of a bind to turn over to side two when you’re mid glue. Thanks you kind sir. Cheers. I will that.
    6 points
  33. Like most here I used to make a lot of Airfix when I was a kid. In about 2010, the Wife and I really liked the TV programme Lost, and I got to thinking, maybe I could... It didn't turn out too well and is now languishing under a table in the hall gathering dust, but hey, it's Oceanic 815 and nobody else had one. And now I was stuck making kits again. Favourite/finest are a bit of a toss up but I really like how this one looks: It's the Matchbox Heyford in (sort of theoretical but possibly existed) trainer colours. I really love that 30s look and the scheme is great. But finest - well, I got my first gold medal at a show for this, and it's got a plane in it, so....
    6 points
  34. Thanks for all your kind words. Now the kitchen is out of the way I can spent a little more time on the Lanc. I got the front turret painted and weathered. She looks ok to me. beware, yo can fit the swivel section afterwards but it’s a ruddy right fit. I needed to touch up afterwards. (Steady Ced) I also got a new addition to the cave. Gemma’s old DAB Radio. 6 music makes everything better I find. this bit got painted and glued. although after drying it didn’t fit. I had to carefully snip the end sections off that sat on the lip. A bit scary but I managed it. I started masking the canopy. the fit is better than it looks but I will fair it in with PPP after maskingwith no fear of white showing through. Here’s a quick dry fit. the turret cowl is a great fit which is making me think is I should paint it separately. As of now I think I’ll glue it all in but I’ll sleep on it. The guns look about the right length though. aley hoop. That’s enough for tonight. Thanks for dropping by. all the best and Happy Modelling chums. Johnny.
    6 points
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