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Showing content with the highest reputation on 16/04/18 in all areas

  1. 33 points
    Just completed te new tool Airfix FG.1 I used the Aerocraft intake splitter plate set and they worked fine. I also used every stencil on the decal sheet. Took me about 4 to 5 evenings doing about 30 at a time. The 1977 Jubilee flashes on the nose with the unit badge in place of the '77' donated by CTModeller and from a Fujimi kit. To make it a little different I painted the underwing drop tanks in the odd ball fashion I saw in a few photos in my old Ian Allan hardback on British Phantoms. Found them to fit at an odd angle so I trimmed the tabs on the tanks so they would fit more in line of flight. Anyway, hope you like the pics... Still mystified why Airfix did the nose gear doors in clear plastic and total lack of any kind of detail
  2. 22 points
    This is a sneak preview of a series of online articles I'll be doing at another site, my Jolly Rogers history collection. I built most of these between the years 2000 and 2008, just completed a second Super Hornet to represent this decade (2010's). As some of these planes don't exist in kit form (i.e. F9F-6 and F9F-7, F8U-2/F-8C) there was a LOT of scratchbuilding modification going on. Add to that the fact that many of these markings did not exist in decal form during the period it was built, and the markings challenge was ALWAYS an issue. I mentioned a decade-relation with the Super Hornet, meaning I wanted one good scheme for the 2000's and for the 2010's, to be repeated in the 2020's. I did the same for the Tomcats. One good F-14A scheme for the 1970's, one for the 1980's and again for the 90's. Same with VF-103's F-14B's, one from the 1990's and again for the 2000's. Additionally I wanted to represent each F6F Hellcat type flown during the war (F6F-3, F6F-5, F6F-5P); I only lack the F6F-5N, as I've never found any decent photos of a VF-17 radar Hellcat although they did have them assigned. Some other types are repeated; for instance, the F6F-5P, F4U-4 and apparently the F8F-1 were flown in different markings under both VF-17 and VF-5B. During the build I amassed a good volume of unpublished photos especially from the 1950's during the VF-61 years. The collection took 2nd place in the Collections category at IPMS Nationals in 2010. Hope you enjoy!
  3. 16 points
    This is the Kinetic kit, straight out of the box. It's a decent kit, but it does has issues. The fit in places is not the best and the instructions could be clearer in terms of colour call outs. They also misnumber numerous parts and decals, so you need to read the instructions carefully. Decals settle down nicely, but the black tulip on the nose has cut outs for the gun ports that don't line up. Thus I had to fill in the gaps with some leftover white decal and black paint. It was meant to be a quicker build, but ended up taking 4 months! I'm pretty please though with how it's turned out. I've also chosen not to weather the machine much at all, just applied a semi gloss coat to it. These aircraft looked pretty clean in service thus I've kept my model that way.
  4. 15 points
    Hi folks, I took a quick exercise on the brand new Eduard kit from "Library" edition. The kit would need few touches here and here, for instance thinning the inlet ring, exhaust nozzle, adding the front altimeter antennas, but the overall fit and level of details is very promising. I will add later the drop tanks once the "overtrees" becomes available. Cheers Libor
  5. 13 points
    Next to last 8th AF aircraft . Still have P-47 on radar Corrected props after review and feedback Xtracrylics PRU with a touch of lighter blue in a few spots Uschi line and Bulb filament for antenna. Just some Pastel dust for weathering Testors Dullcoat (decanted) for final finish Thanks for taking a Look Comments Always welcome Cheers Bill
  6. 11 points
    Howdy All, Just finished my attempt at Revell`s ancient ( older than me I believe ! ) 1/48 Chickasaw kit. Finished to represent an S-55 of EHM 11/65, operated by the French during the Indochina conflict around 1955 Built mostly from the box contents but with a few embellishments to try to disguise it`s shot-comings. Cut some extra windows in the cockpit roof, some seat belts, cyclic stick, wiring behind the instrument panel and foot pedals but due to the thick transparencies you cant see much ( luckily ) Added missing windscreen frames, added mesh to most of the cooling vents, replaced the wheels with some from the spares box, extra aerials and d/f fairing, also some brake pipes. Decals came from Berna decals sheet BD 48-119 Probably more than 1 or 2 inaccuracies but it looks like one to me, hope it does to you too. Thanks for looking, hope you enjoy Cheers Russ
  7. 11 points
    I managed to get three props painted today during the fifteen minutes Winston deigned to even pretend to nap. To add insult to injury, once our entire family, wide awake, was assembled before me, Parent B immediately retreated upstairs and went to sleep. Ho ho ho. But there is a higher justice, and it works in mysterious ways. Tonight, Winston broke out of his bedroom and into our room, used his footstool to gain access to the top of his mom's dresser, and then proceeded to dump all of Mrs P's $75/bottle essential oils* into his hair and rub her foot cream(!) into his cheeks. He then strolled downstairs at 9 PM and tried to very casually walk past me into the kitchen to throw away the evidence. When Mrs P saw him, she yelled "no, Winston! You didn't get into my essential oils, did you?" He laughed, the deep, powerful laugh of a full grown man. "HA HA HA HA HA I DID." He smelled like a French brothel. * Yes, I know they do absolutely nothing, but pseudoscience has a powerful hold on the mind of the SUV-driving American mom.
  8. 10 points
    Hi guys. thankyou for all the lovely kind words. Work has been a trial over the last week and we’re getting ready for a kitchen refurb so the Lanc is suffering somewhat. We were away this weekend and yet another gig. My friends band is doing a homecoming gig in Brum over the weekend so we just had to go. It was a late night so my eyes are like belt holes. I felt I was neglecting the build so I did a little this afternoon. first up the silver got re painted on the UC. I’m much happier with the look of that.I decided to stop faffing around and do some gluing so fuselage it is. I was just about to glue when I remembered the pin up girl. (The new window was were she used to be) I nearly forgot to put her back up. So I sorted that out. Luckily I checked the instructions as this bit had to get added before I buttoned her up. It holds the mid turret central. then everything got glued and pegged. I even put the top bit on. thevseams are there along the middle of the fuselage, not too bad but I’ll sort them when dry. the UC got a gloss coat ready for an oil wash this time. aaand that needs to dry. not a lot but progress is progress I guess. I hope you all had a spiffing weekend. Hopefully I can get more time next week. Thanks for dropping by. Happy Modelling chums. Johnny (I’m getting to old for all this going out dancing lark) boy
  9. 8 points
    And now the smallest model I`ve ever made - 1/72 scale Beechcraft T-34C Turbo Mentor, Argentine Navy`s Air Force, Falklands 1982. The kit is quite old short-run, one of the first Sword`s kits (definitely not for beginners). Some self-made additives were used (new canopy, new propeller, antennas etc.). Decals are combination of DP Casper and Xtradecal "Falklands War" sets. It was quite difficult to match the right colors, because on most photos we can see them faded, so it`s only my interpretation. The final result is below my expectations, but it was all that my skills allowed me to do with this tiny and simple kit... On the other hand - I`m quite happy with wire antennas, which are a real challenge in Argentine T-34C in 1/72. Model shows aircraft no. 412, one of T-34s deployed on Pebble Island and destroyed there in SAS attack at night 14./15. May 1982.
  10. 7 points
    But they're essential oils... essential... they must be important for one's health and wellbeing! Cheers, Stew
  11. 6 points
    A couple of years ago I decided to re-visit an old childhood fave of mine. I was drawn to the Street Demons series and even more drawn to the 56 Ford F-100 offering in that series. I ended up doing a total revamp of that kit when I did sit down to have a "second go" at that kit. Little did I remember just how awful that kit really was (or was it that it didn't really matter at such a young age----I just built it) but I did end up finding out that kit really had its challenges. After completing the revamp kit in 2015 I found out that I'd learned a valuable lesson in my adult modeling in regards to just how far I'm going to go with detailing a kit and more importantly how much money NOT to throw at a build. I detailed it to the point that I dread handling it every time I pick it up to take it to shows or if I have to do a photo shoot like you'll see below. To flash forward to around August of last year, I'd been wanting to build another 56 for a while and then along came the Foose 56 F-100. Man............the body was totally tweaked and the appearance of this truck was so much sleeker than the original F-100's were. So with that I purchased a Revell Foose FD-100 kit. My imagination went into overdrive at the possibilities. I had Thomas over at Speedway Decals go to work on fabricating the slides I'd need to pull this, more refined Demon version, off. I kept the power and drive train and made some modifications to the rear suspension to narrow the rear end and lower it even more while retaining all of the original four link suspension parts. I had to cut the bed and make fender wells for the much wider tires that were to go in the rear. I tried to detail the engine up as much as I could using all of the OOB parts for the engine. I didn't want to have to modify this and modify that to retain the original look of the Roush engine (which is one of the best engines I've built modeling wise-save for that stupid hole in the oil pan for the metal axle to pass throughfacepalm_zpsgaclnqrj.gif ) I turned to Weld Draglites once again for this this newer version. The front wheels are from a Revell Pro Stock Camaro kit and the rears are from Competition Resins with a coat of Molotow Chrome shot through an airbrush and cleared with Spaz Stix Ultimate Clear. After that a coat of Tamiya Smoke was airbrushed onto all wheels to tone down the "toy chrome" look. Paint is Testors Semi Gloss Black as a base color with Testors "Wet Look" clear bringin' up the shine. Both were decanted and shot through an airbrush to get the smoothest results possible. Flame masks from Anarchy Models and Alclad II Polished Aluminum ensured a nice smooth flame job. The "Foose" lettering was removed from the tail gate and F-O-R-D lettering was applied in its place. If I had any words of caution about this kit I would say that the interior tub needs to be installed BEFORE setting the cab down onto the truck frame and to make sure to test fit the hood AFTER installing the radiator core support brace. I test fitted it before installing it and it fit perfect ...........only to find out that it didn't afterwards. Some gentle sanding cleaned it up enough to fit in the end. Also............make SURE then engine is all the way down in the mount slots provided. I had to risk and "all or nothing" attempt at forcing it straight and luckily I got by with it. facepalm_zpsgaclnqrj.gif Overall I was very happy with this kit as it's a solid build that takes to handling well and it just felt like everything "clicked" together unlike a lot of the older kits that I tend to build...........especially with any mods. With all that being said, here's the finishing shots: Once put along side the original "Demon I" (which the front plate on it reads Demon 3 in the series of 6-I didn't know two years ago that I'd be building another one) the differences are painfully obvious in the overall shape of the truck-particularly in the areas of the fenders , grille area and cab height). I took full advantage of these differences to make a more aggressive looking pro street truck this time around. Side by side shot: (Sorry folks, the ol' 429 Boss truck just has to be in the lead )
  12. 6 points
    Following on from the WIP thread for this model, http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235035905-172-raf-walrus-from-matchboxrevell-kit/&tab=comments#comment-3004200, here are the completed photos;Walrus II, Z1768, 281 Sqdn, Ouston, 1942-3 (38) w by Philip Pain, on FlickrWalrus II, Z1768, 281 Sqdn, Ouston, 1942-3 (41) w by Philip Pain, on FlickrWalrus II, Z1768, 281 Sqdn, Ouston, 1942-3 (50) w by Philip Pain, on FlickrWalrus II, Z1768, 281 Sqdn, Ouston, 1942-3 (56) w by Philip Pain, on FlickrWalrus II, Z1768, 281 Sqdn, Ouston, 1942-3 (59) w by Philip Pain, on FlickrWalrus II, Z1768, 281 Sqdn, Ouston, 1942-3 (61) w by Philip Pain, on FlickrWalrus II, Z1768, 281 Sqdn, Ouston, 1942-3 (68) w by Philip Pain, on FlickrJust a comment about the accuracy of the scheme, as it is based on a partial photo of some erks stood in front of the rear fuselage, and obliterating most of the code letters. The 'FA' and the hyphen are correct, and the colours are red, unlike some RAF Rescue squadrons that used yellow. However, the individual code letter 'B' could be a 'D' or even a 'G' as only a bit of a curved letter can be seen. RAF Rescue squadrons only had a few aircraft each, to include the Walrus and Defiants, later replaced by the Anson. The highest letter known for 281 Squadron is an Anson coded 'F'. As the Walrus came first, early alphabet letters are likely, thus choosing 'B' for this model of Z1768. This kit is the Revell re-issue of the Matchbox kit, and to improve the detail of the kit, some 130 individual additions/corrections were made. It is fully rigged using nylon thread and, as shown in the WIP thread, the rigging was first attached to the inside of the parts, before construction, and then pulled through and secured after gluing parts together. Thanks for looking.
  13. 6 points
    Awww, bless him, using tools! I hope you got some photos? That's the sort of story he'll regret at his 18th birthday party and wedding. Revenge is a dish... But wait, I have an idea! You'll need a couple of buckets and a pipette. Fill the buckets with water. Retrieve the oil bottle from the trash. Very carefully drop one drop (just one mind) of oil into the water in one bucket and stir for five minutes. Using the pipette, take one drop of the mixture and put it in the other bucket. Repeat this until you can just still smell the oil and voila! Homeopathic essential oil! MUCH more powerful!! You could print up some 'Winnie's Oil, Inspired by Our Son' labels with a cute photo of him on the front and probably sell them from the back of the SUV to other SUV driving Moms for, ooh I don't know, $30 a bottle? College fund sorted.
  14. 6 points
    More bits are added. Ladder, engine and cowls, mooring cleats and floats' rudders: Decals under the wings and the fairings for the scissor linkages: Props, more decals, wire antenna, boomerang antenna, floats' rudders rigging: Adapting parts to make the beaching gear:
  15. 6 points
    My Tamiya 1/48 A6M2 of the 261st Kokutai, created in Kagoshima in June 1943 and "dissolved" in Saipan, after the Great Marianas Turkey Shoot in July 1944. Click picture for action.
  16. 5 points
    Hey All, This is about as much as I'm going to do on this build. However you know that everybody that builds a Dio base is never really done. I'll just keep adding junk to this until the Maz is really junk. That's it guys! I'm off to other builds, later all, Rich
  17. 5 points
  18. 5 points
    Well - despite everything - I've got them done. Just a couple of pictures for now as I'm hoping to get my others back. a quick shot of the backs - as there is quite a lot going on inside that doesn't come with the kits. ...and one from the front for now - with my lucky penny... ...thanks again for all the support and on behalf of the team here - 'thanks for following this painful trek' - the Sarge appreciates it Steve
  19. 5 points
    Thanks for all the comments! The last two weeks I've been able to close the fuselage and finish assembly. This weekend I got a lot of painting done. One of the things that was still left was the gun sight: What I actually started the whole build with was the wheel wells. I added some additional wiring to the Airfix parts: Assembled. I'm not a huge fan of the surface detail and besides, the wings of the Mustang were pretty smooth so I spent quite a lot of time filling and sanding the wings smooth. Lost the rear edges of the wing tips in the process, but replaced them by sculpting some Evergreen styrene into shape. Primed black: Painted with various shades of AK Interactive: Vroooooom Thanks for looking Comments and feedback is always appreciated. - Elger
  20. 4 points
    Here is my fifth completion of the year, the Dragon Models 1/700 U.S.S. Pennsylvania in her 1944 configuration: I built this for the upcoming Scottish National Model Show in Perth at the end of the month to take part in the Sovereign Hobbies giant 3D all-singing all-dancing all-time Battleships game* - Jamie has done the rest of the US fleet and Gill has done the Imperial Japanese Navy ships and I imagine it will end in scenes of bloody violence not seen since the actual Pacific War. Building it was quite a strange experience as I rarely deviate (and I use the word after careful consideration) from 1/72 aircraft kits. The kit was a collection of mostly tiny, tiny parts, about half of which were marked on the instructions as 'not for use' but this fortunately meant there was a fair supply of spares for when the less co-operative tiny parts pinged out of my tweezers never to be seen again. Anyway in keeping with my policy of posting every kit I finish regardless of quality, there she is and I am happy enough with how she turned out. The kit is finished in Colourcoats US10 - 1942 Revised Deck Blue 20-B for the decks and US08 - 5-N Navy Blue for just about everything else. I did paint the little Vought Kingfisher in Non-specular Sea Blue, Intermediate Blue and White, because I am a bit funny like that sometimes. Anyway thanks for looking, thanks to Jamie for the model and the paints and if you are passing the Sovereign Hobbies stand at the model show, please feel free to drop by and watch the mayhem - I shall be keeping as far out of the way as is practicable because I suspect Gill has a ruthless desire to win that will not scruple at using violence to achieve that end Cheers, Stew * Actual game may not include singing, dancing or time and may not be giant according to most accepted definitions.
  21. 4 points
    Hello Britmodellers, this April Manfred von Richthofen died 100 years ago, German Modelling Magazine ModellFan presented various planes dedicated to him ranging from WWI to present with todays JG 71 "Richthofen". This Spook is one of these... It is a Revell F with a lot of changes to look like a real spook... This Luftwaffen-Diesel greeted the crowd in Fairford 2004 Cheers, Thomas
  22. 4 points
    Hi guys, back home now. Last night I couldn't sleep so I decided to do some work on the tail session. Last week I cut from stabilizer's the elevators and glued the top and bottom side as the resin one by Alleycat is a bit too thin.At the end, I've decided to use the kit part, corrected. Here's a comparaison between the two. Comparing the tail shape with the picture in the back ground. I've just realized the front edge was a little more round than on the kit on the real aircraft. I'll file it a little bit later. Last night I cut the kit intake and the to pof the vertical fin. Glued a styrene strip to the top of the tail and drilled the intale housing on the tail front edge. I added some CA glue to the junction and then... flour sweet flour!!!!!! And again I can tell you flour is great!!! I filed the material in excess and then I glued an angled srtip of styrene to the fin's front. I also glued a piece of styrene tube to the airtake recess. I added CA gue and flour and filed it down to improvethe junction. I added some CA glue into the recess and shaped it This morning I cut the eccess off and drilled a line of holes to the bottom of the orizontal stabilizer. Then I cut and shaped the fin's top to match the stabilizer. Dry fit test tosee what it looks like wirh the open airbrakes too. I'll represent the stabilizer nose down and elevators bent up as in the last picture found on www.alamy.com.The vertical part over the stabilizer will have to be rebuilt, but I'll keep this for another time!!! Ciao Massimo
  23. 4 points
    Sorry I have to remove my posts Good Bye Gabor
  24. 4 points
    A last minute decision to use the kit decals after the Model Alliance set on eBay crept beyond £12! The kit decals were slightly cracked through age, but fortunately didn't break up in the water. After serving with 25 sqn, XH905 flew in 33 sqn markings until November 1962 when the unit was renumbered 5 sqn and moved to Geilenkirchen in Germany. It was based here until 1966 when the Javelin wing disbanded. It's remarkable how short the service lives of some front line fighters were in those days! I built this one OOB apart from adding the tiny aerial on the tailplane, and painting the control panels as the decals didn't include any. Colours are satin DSG spray, Tamiya XF-81 green and silver spray from Halfords (!). The kit was generally good apart from excessive flash on some sprues, but fitted together reasonably well for the most part, I just needed a lot of filler for the wing roots. So here she is, Javelin FAW.9 XH905 of 5 squadron ... I'd love to get better at this (more realistic looking models), so all comments and ideas for improvement welcome!
  25. 4 points
    The weapons carriers are now drying - EMRUs in position and painted on all 4; next to add the various PE appendages. While they're drying, I've turned my attention to a couple of areas that have given me a lot of trouble. The tail wheel must have been knocked off half a dozen times, so this time I've drilled it and inserted a fairly large brass rod to see if I can keep it on the aircraft for longer than 5 minutes (which should - at least in theory - be made easier by the fact that she's sitting on the wonderful JHmodels frame gizmo rather than her own wheels...). The other is the tail strake (the only example I know of a deliberately anti-aerodynamic device on an aircraft - its purpose is to break up the downwash on the port side of the tail, so that the entire tail pylon acts as an aerofoil section, thus unloading the tail rotor). Because of the whole Rivet-Fest thing, I couldn't fit it early on (it wasn't on the earliest Seakings, so the rivet patterns run under it rather than round it), and no matter what I have tried to fix it safely post-paint & rivet, it has always been really fragile; it keeps on falling off without my even touching it. Worse yet, the Hasegawa plastic strake - even after some pretty drastic filing - is too thick to be convincing. Since I can't get it to stay in place, I've decided to bite the bullet properly and make a brass strake instead; if I’m going to have to do more drastic things to fix it in place, I may as well make it a good piece. The FlightPath set includes a PE strake, but in a rare departure from near-perfection for them, the forward half of it is useless. The rear section is straight, and I'll be using David's offering - but the forward section has to fit around a very curved part of the fuselage, and the FlightPath version doesn't work. (I actually think that coping with the curve is part of the problem with Hasegawa’s plastic version, too). So today has seen the first major action for the Old Faithful SIHRSC, namely fettling some brass sheet into the requisite shape. It's not finished yet, but getting there (and Old Faithful is superb - subtle but effective; thanks Bill!). Not a lot to show you for a couple of hours' work, but all important stuff. [You don't need another picture of a Seaking tail wheel; it looks exactly the same as the previous three times it's been "fixed" in position!] More soon Crisp
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