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Showing content with the highest reputation on 15/04/18 in all areas

  1. Next to last 8th AF aircraft . Still have P-47 on radar Corrected props after review and feedback Xtracrylics PRU with a touch of lighter blue in a few spots Uschi line and Bulb filament for antenna. Just some Pastel dust for weathering Testors Dullcoat (decanted) for final finish Thanks for taking a Look Comments Always welcome Cheers Bill
    19 points
  2. Just completed te new tool Airfix FG.1 I used the Aerocraft intake splitter plate set and they worked fine. I also used every stencil on the decal sheet. Took me about 4 to 5 evenings doing about 30 at a time. The 1977 Jubilee flashes on the nose with the unit badge in place of the '77' donated by CTModeller and from a Fujimi kit. To make it a little different I painted the underwing drop tanks in the odd ball fashion I saw in a few photos in my old Ian Allan hardback on British Phantoms. Found them to fit at an odd angle so I trimmed the tabs on the tanks so they would fit more in line of flight. Anyway, hope you like the pics... Still mystified why Airfix did the nose gear doors in clear plastic and total lack of any kind of detail
    19 points
  3. Hi folks, I took a quick exercise on the brand new Eduard kit from "Library" edition. The kit would need few touches here and here, for instance thinning the inlet ring, exhaust nozzle, adding the front altimeter antennas, but the overall fit and level of details is very promising. I will add later the drop tanks once the "overtrees" becomes available. Cheers Libor
    17 points
  4. Howdy All, Just finished my attempt at Revell`s ancient ( older than me I believe ! ) 1/48 Chickasaw kit. Finished to represent an S-55 of EHM 11/65, operated by the French during the Indochina conflict around 1955 Built mostly from the box contents but with a few embellishments to try to disguise it`s shot-comings. Cut some extra windows in the cockpit roof, some seat belts, cyclic stick, wiring behind the instrument panel and foot pedals but due to the thick transparencies you cant see much ( luckily ) Added missing windscreen frames, added mesh to most of the cooling vents, replaced the wheels with some from the spares box, extra aerials and d/f fairing, also some brake pipes. Decals came from Berna decals sheet BD 48-119 Probably more than 1 or 2 inaccuracies but it looks like one to me, hope it does to you too. Thanks for looking, hope you enjoy Cheers Russ
    11 points
  5. My latest build, a backwards conversion from the Choroszy Modelbuld A.W.35 Scimitar. At its time when being tested for deck trials.
    11 points
  6. Hello, this is my project with M3A3 Stuart from AFV Club and Tamiya 20mm Flakvierling 38 with new weathering. I added Jordi Rubio gun barrels, Eduard photo etched set and minor detalis. Yugoslavian Partisans version.
    10 points
  7. Hasegawa F16 Eggplane, Retrokit cockpit and exhaust,decals by TwoBobs Amazed still that there is so much aftermarket for eggplanes! White is Halfords primer,orange is Hataka,hand painted. Lacquer is Halfords matt, works a treat BUT...make sure you put klear over your decals...... that's why there are wrinkles in the USAF ! Dropped this more times than I care to remember, tricky little thing to hold.
    10 points
  8. WNW 1/32 Hannover.
    10 points
  9. There are now enough chemicals on my bench for an episode of the A-Team.... From the maker of that Quicksilver Fury, praise I will treasure Tomo. Po-ssibly not after what I've done to them...(see below). These things matter Nigel. Kind of you to overlook the fact that I haven't added similarly the ashtray to the navigator's position..(yes, there is one). You wouldn't want me to decorate your house however. Fauvism and plastering are not natural bedfellows... I'd forgotten that you'd mentioned tempera before Giorgio and it has piqued my interest enough to try and acquire some myself. I forgot to mention in the last post also that I'd experimented with rubbing a few smears of (olive green) oil pastel over the fuselage walls in a few places - nothing dramatic but just enough to draw out some variations in highlighting. The 'oiliness' of the pastel can be smeared with a fingertip to merge with the existing colours more smoothly than dry-brushing I've found. Thank-you Crisp. That name is perfect. This aircraft is henceforth the Satellite Catching Iron Chicken. That's a bit freaky! Must be the 'classic' 3/4 view of the pedestal that one responds to naturally! Pm predictably inbound James.... Brace yourselves: Experience tells me that this is the best way to cut up the bodies. I'm not a doctor - as indeed you may have surmised by now - but enthusiasm counts for a lot. 'Pourquoi?' you may be asking. Well, the PJ Productions' stuff is of course very nicely produced indeed - lovely ice-creamy resin and sharply detailed, b-uuuuut, the provided poses need alteration as well as extra details like parachutes for some of the guys in the recovery team hanging out the back. To give some kind of coherence to the use of figures in the aircraft there should always be some kind of clear narrative to the moment, so I've picked the point at which those in the flight deck have first visually sighted the Corona capsule in the distance and those in the rear are making a last-minute visual-check of the recovery gear. This is the pilot, Capt. Mitchell: Not a man likely to go to pieces under normal circumstances but I need his legs to reach the pedals, plus he was slouching a bit and there's nothing worse than bad posture on the part of those in command. Sends all the wrong messages. Not my entry for the 'Coral Polyp' section at Telford this year, but la Mitchelle's limbs and pelvis all drilled-out in preparation for some fuse-wire armature: I've finally worked out that when modifying figures at this scale you really need to make the limbs adjustable in order to get them into the correct positions and aligments; fuse-wire lets you set this up in a more controllable manner that just gluing the bits together - bearing in mind the limited wiggle room that CA on resin would allow here: Using the co-pilot behind for a 'before' and 'after' comparison, you can see the required level of alteration needed to for the pilot figure to meet the cockpit structure convincingly: Any gaps created by re-posing the limbs don't matter as Milliput can be used here. Pelican 9 reporting for duty: Armless but not 'opeless: The notion here is Capt. Mitchell gazing with steely intent as he steers Pelican 9 in to intercept the payload: co-pilot leaning forward, left hand hovering over the throttles as he scans the IP: navigator behind them staring fixedly at the CRT calling out final fixes for the radio beacon on the capsule. Gosh. I felt a bit excited there myself for a moment. The overall narrative: Behind the pilots you can see the radio operator providing a second pair of 'eyes-on-target' for the pilot (to get rid of that 'Mexican wave' look to his pose therein the photo, his arms were later cut off and repositioned so that each hand rests on the seat backs in front to steady him against any sharp manoueveres. (This is of course fictionalized supposition): As to the posse in the back, two crewmen (later to receive parachutes and safety lines are leaning out the back checking the lines, one guy stands ready by the drum the capsule is placed into, whilst the crew chief/cargomaster stands supervising near the winch, talking to the flight crew over the intercom. Absent from this roll are two other rear crew members and the photographer that recorded the mission - they will have to be assumed to be keeping out of the way in the shadows discussing the Jack Kerouac article in last month's Playboy: The figure to the right in the above shot also received some surgery along with the radio operator: He no longer looks to be dancing the 'Mashed Potato' but is now leaning forwards to check the trailing lines: Now hum Kraftwerk's 'The Robots' whilst looking at the next photo: How to make 1/72 life-jackets: 'We're functioning automatic And we are dancing mechanic' Parachutes courtesy of The Milliput Co., Dolgellau: The M-put is fresh and wet in that shot - final shaping/thinning was done with the Dremel the following day, after which, Halford's grey liberally descended upon the Pelican Posse. Re-posed radio-op: Pole-handler: The re-posed Capt.Mitchell: The Hickham AFB Jitterbug finalists: Were people still Jitterbugging in 1960? I've no idea... So. When it came to painting these chaps, I wanted to try a new method. Quite frankly any figure painting I've done in the past has left me dissatisfied with the sense of 'life' (or lack thereof in my case). I did some research around Hugetube and came across a gentleman by the name of Mr.Bob who quietly and patiently shows you how to do 1/72 figures in a most controllable and engaging fashion. What follows in this last bit then is taken directly from his excellent approach to the subject: First stage then is to simply 'line-out' areas around straps, seams etc, with black acrylic ink and a (very) fine brush: I found the result of that simple procedure so blasted attractive I nearly didn't want to paint over them any further! Nevertheless, a few Mr.Bobsian colour washes later and the Grey Ones look a bit more USAF-ey: The wire supports on the seated figures will obviously be cut off later, but for the standing figures I'll use these as locating mounts for extra strength: Another obvious point is that I'll have to add some harness-works to the pilots and navigator in order to strap them into their seats. And that's you really up-to-date with the state of play now - I've got the seated figures glued into their seating this morning and want to spend any time over the rest of the week getting the remainder of the internals glued together, crew installed and so forth. Once that is done - unless I'm missing something obvious - it will be time to start thinking about closing up the fuselage and getting to work on the external parts of the aircraft. More SCIC* action during the week. Tony *Satellite Catching Iron Chicken.
    10 points
  10. This is a sneak preview of a series of online articles I'll be doing at another site, my Jolly Rogers history collection. I built most of these between the years 2000 and 2008, just completed a second Super Hornet to represent this decade (2010's). As some of these planes don't exist in kit form (i.e. F9F-6 and F9F-7, F8U-2/F-8C) there was a LOT of scratchbuilding modification going on. Add to that the fact that many of these markings did not exist in decal form during the period it was built, and the markings challenge was ALWAYS an issue. I mentioned a decade-relation with the Super Hornet, meaning I wanted one good scheme for the 2000's and for the 2010's, to be repeated in the 2020's. I did the same for the Tomcats. One good F-14A scheme for the 1970's, one for the 1980's and again for the 90's. Same with VF-103's F-14B's, one from the 1990's and again for the 2000's. Additionally I wanted to represent each F6F Hellcat type flown during the war (F6F-3, F6F-5, F6F-5P); I only lack the F6F-5N, as I've never found any decent photos of a VF-17 radar Hellcat although they did have them assigned. Some other types are repeated; for instance, the F6F-5P, F4U-4 and apparently the F8F-1 were flown in different markings under both VF-17 and VF-5B. During the build I amassed a good volume of unpublished photos especially from the 1950's during the VF-61 years. The collection took 2nd place in the Collections category at IPMS Nationals in 2010. Hope you enjoy!
    9 points
  11. Have nice Weekend free photo hosting
    9 points
  12. hi all, Another one chalked off, this time an Airfix 1/48 Lightning F Mk3 in 56sqdn checkertail markings. It has a CMK cockpit and Master pitot tube plus Flightpath decals but apart from that it is straight from the box. It's a reasonable kit to put together and is nicely detailed apart from the cockpit. The only real issues were twofold. The dreadful Airfix decals which were like cardboard, didn't sink into panel lines even with Daco Red and then peeled off when Tamiya masking tape was applied over them. I ended up using the FLightpath ones for everything and they turned out to be excellent but had a milky residue from the glue. At least that was easily removed during application. The other issue was the undercarriage doors which were a totally different shape to the wheel wells. Think square peg and round hole. I had to make a master and then cut/scribe new ones to fit. Either the original doors or wells are the wrong shape, it could be both of course!! The red Ds on the airbrakes were printed by Paul Fernandez at Blue Diamond Decals and went on superbly. I'm sure i will be getting his help again. Hope you like it Andy
    9 points
  13. Hey All, This is about as much as I'm going to do on this build. However you know that everybody that builds a Dio base is never really done. I'll just keep adding junk to this until the Maz is really junk. That's it guys! I'm off to other builds, later all, Rich
    8 points
  14. Another MTB from me since building the old Airfix Vosper a couple of months ago. Decided to go for the beautiful 1/72 Tamiya Vosper Perkasa MTB. As expected (despite its age) a straight forward build with hardly any issues whatsoever. Only minor irk was the kit decals. Designed to be waterproof and are as easy to apply as makeup on a Rottweiler! Decided to leave most of them off as they were pants. Used Tamiya sprays for hull (hull red and TS66 grey) and superstructure and Humbrol grass green spray for the deck. Used a combination of Flory and Mig pigments to weather. Only additions outside the kit were White Ensign 1/72 figures (as well as the kit figures), EZ line for railings and rigging (brill stuff) and a bit of string for the ropes. Thanks for looking. Tony
    7 points
  15. Finished today, Built OOB, painted with Mr Color Laquers. Liked this kit, fit mostly really good, the only real niggles the gun bay doors. Peter
    7 points
  16. Hi Folks, A little break from the airplane scale models and made this Mazda T2000 over the weekend, nice kit however, required some dedication. Hope it turned ok. Cheers
    7 points
  17. I know my building skills are nowhere near what you're used to on this site but, since you're the only people who don't look at me like I'm a gibbering madman when I say, "I build model planes," I've decided to brave the waters and stick the toe of a picture in. Still not ready to try weathering, panel lines and the really dinky decals and not sure I ever will be. Having knackered both tail numbers beyond redemption, it's semi-incognito but carries a Dambusters squadron number (allegedly, that of Len Cheshire, famous lunatic and all-round good guy). Any chipped paint effect you see is achieved by... well... chipped paint... I've not yet sprayed the flat finish on. I'm still pondering the "I-know-it's-not-right-but-I-like-a-glossy-finish" dilemma. I gather the exhausts are supposed to be housed but I prefer the look of exposed stacks... So sue me! It was inspected by my supervisor, Pidsley, but so far he hasn't shared his opinion... Onward and upward, eh? Maybe a couple of disposable Spitfires next to try out things I've been learning.
    7 points
  18. Thank you Yoda, guys I thought how hard would it be to just... Turns out it wasnt hardly hard at all Just for giggles
    7 points
  19. Hi again all, I've slipped back to Phantoms for another brief journey in to my memory bank and slide files. This time I get away from the Nation Guard and sample the U.S. Navy reserve and U.S.M.C. Reserve. These were taken, again early morning, around the Dallas Naval Air Station and cover the three based F-4 units. Like my visits to the ANG site the units were preparing for the morning's operations. The Marines had just started to get active as my mate and I got to their ramp. As always I hope you like them.
    6 points
  20. #11/2018 Another of my dad´s excursions to the modern world. Hasegawa kit, not one of their best, some fit issues, steps and gaps. Thanks to fellow Britmodeller Gundylunch for selling me the kit last year sadly the decals weren´t really usable anymore so they came from an Eagle Strike sheet. Decals for the canopy detonation cord are from a TwoBobs sheet. Seat is from Quickboost, Snakeeyes from a Hasegawa weapon set, the kit includes only drop tanks and Sidewinders. Camo done with Gunze H307 FS36320 and H337 FS35237. Build thread here DSC_0001 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0021 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0020 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0001 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr
    6 points
  21. Got a bit more time in on the Harrier and have got the camo scheme done. I have used Gunze acrylic RAF dark green and dark sea grey and they perform very well indeed and leave a nice smooth finish, I have tried to give an uneven slightly worn finish on the grey but given a more even finish to the green, this is because the green will mostly be covered by the white distemper. I have also applied a couple of coats of Klear using a wide flat brush which will give a nice finish for the decals to adhere to, my plan is to apply all the decals which are visible on the grey or have been painted around and then add the white. Anyway here are a couple of pics of how she looks at the moment; Hopefully I will make a start on the decals today. Thanks for looking in and as usual all comments and criticisms are gratefully received. Craig.
    6 points
  22. The round access lids made of punched alu sheet are added on the floats. Still to detail are the mooring cleats, the black nose, and a succinct representation the rudders' rigging:
    6 points
  23. End of the project. Adding flaps and ailerons to both wings: Now it's time to fit the wings to the central box. Lot of suspense... and if this didn't go well ? And YES! It WORKS! Completing the wings root: Last chapter: the engine. More classic: most of it is made of cast resin parts. Good ones, although some after-market detail sets are better, but this is visually good. (Nostalgia) The last PE part of this assembly: This assembly is now complete: My Hellcat is now complete. A very good kit, well designed. Sustained assembly with some thrilling moments but very exciting at the end. Highly recommended for those PE addicts who want to try something unusual. Thank you for your attention and comments. _Bruno
    6 points
  24. Thanks Simon Yes, and that's not ALL of them - I got bored. Thanks John and Keith If they could use NATO refuelling I guess they got the paint... VMA NATO black is my 'go to' matt black for spraying but gosh, it's boring in the whole cockpit. I've added other blacks to cheer things up a bit (see below) Welcome Cookie Nice movie clip - they are impressive beasts. Thanks Dave and Tony I had reduced my double-entendres so I'm happy for anyone to take up the slack... no, not that tight (snurf snurf) I looked at that black cockpit and thought it needed cheering up. Some glossier black on the cyclics, Meng black here and there, control columns painted matt and gloss ready for insertion and a bit of grey under the panel decal and we're a lot cheerier: I can get the crew in now (hooray!) We're off to Highclere tomorrow for a look around. Very Downton Abbey. Hopefully none of our party will get killed / ravished / sent into slavery. I will, of course, be recognised as the long lost son of the Lord and finally find my true position in society; showing tours around the pile.
    6 points
  25. Here is my latest build and second Lynx Mk8. It was built for a mate who was the M1 on the flight doing counter-piracy in the Indian Ocean. I used the Eduard Big Ed photo-etch set and scratch built a few bits as well. Red
    5 points
  26. Here is my fifth completion of the year, the Dragon Models 1/700 U.S.S. Pennsylvania in her 1944 configuration: I built this for the upcoming Scottish National Model Show in Perth at the end of the month to take part in the Sovereign Hobbies giant 3D all-singing all-dancing all-time Battleships game* - Jamie has done the rest of the US fleet and Gill has done the Imperial Japanese Navy ships and I imagine it will end in scenes of bloody violence not seen since the actual Pacific War. Building it was quite a strange experience as I rarely deviate (and I use the word after careful consideration) from 1/72 aircraft kits. The kit was a collection of mostly tiny, tiny parts, about half of which were marked on the instructions as 'not for use' but this fortunately meant there was a fair supply of spares for when the less co-operative tiny parts pinged out of my tweezers never to be seen again. Anyway in keeping with my policy of posting every kit I finish regardless of quality, there she is and I am happy enough with how she turned out. The kit is finished in Colourcoats US10 - 1942 Revised Deck Blue 20-B for the decks and US08 - 5-N Navy Blue for just about everything else. I did paint the little Vought Kingfisher in Non-specular Sea Blue, Intermediate Blue and White, because I am a bit funny like that sometimes. Anyway thanks for looking, thanks to Jamie for the model and the paints and if you are passing the Sovereign Hobbies stand at the model show, please feel free to drop by and watch the mayhem - I shall be keeping as far out of the way as is practicable because I suspect Gill has a ruthless desire to win that will not scruple at using violence to achieve that end Cheers, Stew * Actual game may not include singing, dancing or time and may not be giant according to most accepted definitions.
    5 points
  27. The transformation, including modified Khee-Kha Art Product resin floats and an Arctic Decals set is completed. This plane operated on both, wheels and floats for the Tokyo Koku KK, transporting passengers. The WiP post is here: This seaplane civil version implies a number of modifications described in the construction article, that include -but are not limited to- reshaping and reposition of windows, deletion of military features, correction of kit's defects, addition of floats and involved struts, new home-modified engine and propeller, slight correction of elevators and ailerons, new interior, new set of civil marks and many small additional details (radiator, louvers, Pitots, etc.) As explained in the construction posting, the final inspiration came from the Arawasi blog which had an interesting post on the type (link in that WiP). My thanks to George Eleftheriou and his contacts for providing needed material to build a more accurate model.
    5 points
  28. Hi all, Having revisited my first-ever WIP thread on this forum this evening, with a view to replacing the many Photobucket ransom demands with appropriate pics from my Flickr album, it occurred to me that I never actually got round to completing a proper RFI thread for the finished model. I think at the time the lack of any facility for taking a decent photo, coupled with the feeling that the resulting quality (compared to the many masterpieces shown here) didn't really warrant it, meant that I just quietly forgot about it. The WIP was posted way back in February 2016, and can be found here in case you are interested. I recently took some RFI pics for my Alam Halfa diorama, and once they were done I took the opportunity to take some of the Ki-30. I feel now that I can share these, on the basis that I owe it to myself to heed whatever observations and criticisms are coming to me. This subject marked a return to modelling for me after a gap of some 30+ years, so not surprisingly the results are a little bit 'ragged'. So with that in mind, and a deep breath, I offer this set of photos: So there you go - better late than never, and all that! All criticisms gladly accepted
    5 points
  29. Treasonous fnaring? No I do not think so, the fnarmaster has always appeared to encourage the free and handy fnar access in the annals of BM I could go back page and ages Now I DO HAVE A SERIOUS MATTER OF HEALTH AND SAFETY TO DISCUSS That gearbox A ring of (Oi, over there, behave) bolt holes holds the top onto the rather hefty gearbox top In order to allow correct strength in the transmission area these bolts MUST be a: tightened up properly and b: spread the compressive forces equally top to bottom This need the holes on the top 'cover' and the holes in the casing to be aligned The nuts and bolts then hold it all together, snug-ish But these ones? They're awful, all distorted and bent Can we send this poor wobblechopter back to workshops for rectifying I bet Hendie and WAFU are sweating cobs at that But seriously Ced, your cockpit work is taking its normal route to fabbyness, I'm only having a laff about the gearbox Those tiny little fnarathons and such Smashing
    5 points
  30. Thank you Glynn. Today's modelling progress. Bit of work on the instrument panel - Klear in the dials and a bit of colour here and there: Test fit of the cockpit framework against the sides: You can see in the above photos how I have routed the wires for the motor. Then I glued the IP and bulkhead to the port side: Test fit with the framework: I also did some work on the display stand - which has to have the wires for the motor going through it - I used 4mm aluminium tube. I've bent the tube so that the top section rests in the top of the back fuselage to support the Hurricane when on display: Next up I glued the fuselage halves together: Once the glue had set I fixed the motor in place with CA glue and then tested it by using BluTack to hold the spinner in place: Then with the motor working: I have also been doing some painting on the pilot figure. Comments and suggestions welcome. Kind regards, Stix
    5 points
  31. Made a little more progress over the weekend. Made up and painted the prop which my good mate H gave me whilst at Cosford last weekend. Couldn't resist popping it on for a look see! I've also fit the U/C legs. Also, the outer guns were removed on this aircraft and the apertures taped over, maybe? So I cut some squares of Bare Metal Foil and placed those over them to represent the tape. Then painted them, badly! On the home straight now with the build. Tim.
    4 points
  32. Hi, Next machine of Finnish air forces - the Gloster Gamecock II, build under licence in Finland. Some 20 machines were build, they have a bit extended fuselage like in Gamecock III, instead of typical short fulselage of original Gloster production. At the outbreak of WWII, which in case of Finland started with war against Soviet Union agression in 1939 some of them were still in use. That war was lasting till spring 1940 and Finns protected themselves however losing some the most east part of territory (which remains in Russian's hands till now). The Gamecock was obviously and definitly an obsolate machine at 1939, it was used in role of avanced trainer. Last machines were phased out in 1944 (!) - as far as I've read about it. There was a spectacular victory during Winter War achieved on Gamecock. On 29 January 1940 Soviet bomber DB 3 was captured by a single Gamecock. More about this event here: The GA-58 is one of three possible Gamecock codes of the capturing machine. The model is Broplan's first (?) and only (?) injection model . This is a typical short run to which I added some details as scratch build (in net there are available photos of sprues here: http://karopka.ru/community/user/17547/?MODEL=381419 ) Decals come from drawer (likely by AZ and letteing by Techmod), one small swastika on prop is hand paint, second is from SH Myrsky spare one. Here she is: Many thanks for Finnish collegues here on BM, Antii and Vessa as well the Mykko Kylemala of Finnish Museum of Aviation who helped me in gathering materials related to this build. Comments welcome Regards Jerzy-Wojtek
    4 points
  33. Here it is then, my first finished build as a Britmodeller, a straight OOB Airfix Grumman Wildcat F4F-4 Wildcat. A great little kit that goes together like a dream, I've already bought another one. I'm fairly new to the hobby, so any helpful hints, tips and constructive criticism is highly appreciated. I didn't have early war USN colors, so the paint is approximation/poor guesswork only. Top: Tamiya XF-17 Sea Blue + XF-2 White 3:1 Underside: Vallejo Model Air 050 Light Gray. Gloss and matt varnishes from Vallejo. Applied with airbrush. Canopy brushpainted. Micro Set for decals. Wash: Burnt Umber oil paint in odorless turpentine Weathering: Vallejo Model Air Aluminum applied with a small sponge, brown and black chalk pastels applied with brush Issues: As you can se from the underside, i need a proper scribing tool(already purchased). Here I used my thinnest hobby saw blade - not thin enough. The rudder decal gave me quite some grief, for some reason it would constantly lift along the edge. Ended up tearing both of them in half. Maybe I should have left the rudder of the model until it's all done. (Picture quality is far from optimal, mobile phone camera and heavy clouds outside is a poor combination.) The rudder decal in all its questionable glory.. On to the next build, the Academy Zero 52C! As mentioned above, any advice most . Cheers, Haavard
    4 points
  34. Evening all, As expected, didn't get anything done during the week but made some progress this weekend: Painted the fuselage of the A8/R2 including the balkenkreuz which were a bit wobbly at this stage Lower wings and fuselage done: And upper wings and fuselage balkenkreuz on the A9 done: Wings of the A8/R2 getting painted in 74/75: Balkenkreuz on the A8 filled with RLM74 and the wobbly white bits straightened up: And both together: The tactical markings for the A9 consist of solid white numbers and bars which were highlighted by green comouflage paint. Normally i would use pre-cut stencils for the '2' but it is unusual in having a large loop to the top. Therefore, I hacked out a rough copy and then sprayed RLM 82 around it with the hope the white decals would sit inside: Pretty happy with the result Next week' I'll be doing the balkenkreuz on the upper wings and the ground concealment pattern on the A8. Then it's on to the fiddly bits. Thanks for looking H
    4 points
  35. The crew are looking superb, almost like 1/72 scale cloned humans... but erm... remind me never to upset you gulp...tip toeing carefully out the room hoping I won't be seen...
    4 points
  36. Well I've gone a long way this weekend but not taken many pictures. Once the cockpit was in I joined the fuselage and popped the lower wing on then the carbane struts and the top of the nose. I dremmelled out the moulded machine guns but could have left them as one of the better parts of the kit. I needed quite a bit of bog on the joins and ejector pin marks so this was done yesterday and sanded up today. I also sanded back the fabric effect on the wings and fuselage as it was well over done. Ive added a bit of card to the top of the tail as there is a step under the fin. The small holes for the rigging are also drilled as are the scoops either side of the nose. Next step is the undercarriage and then I'll have to pick a scheme. I'm toying with a Munich Crisis Green and Brown over black and white just to be different? Colin
    4 points
  37. On the initial report it said 4 a/c from the RAF, so I thought Lancaster/Spitfire/Hurricane & the Chipmunk💪🏻
    4 points
  38. That's not on e-bay, you doctored that photograph to hide the fact that you have been at Crisp's old flight kit again! You don't fool this alien. Sherlock Martian
    4 points
  39. Decals done and undercarriage on. Matt coat will be next. I keep forgetting to paint the exhausts - must get on to that!
    4 points
  40. That's my plea in mitigation M'lud. Last night,one of the Prestwick based Coastguard AW189s flew down the loch. My son commented 'It's not a Sea King is it?' Correct!
    4 points
  41. Lovely clear cockpit work Ced. Gotta love the colour of Russian derived cockpits and structures, That gearbox assembly looks damn fine as well, especially given its size and scale. Anyhow, this is how to fit it, Don't forget to add some cables and use the help of three fitters!
    4 points
  42. Oddly enough, the motto of the first cruise ship company to run package tours along the Barbary Coast... Jesus Ced.
    4 points
  43. All remaining decals are now on. I used the Eduard kit decals for everything but the Black 6, the "Achtung Anfänger" script and the "Verschnupfte Rabe" shield of JG51 for which I used the Kagero decals. These ended up being beautifully printed but a tad thick and therefore less reactive to the decal solution but they eventually settled down.Here is a close-up of the shield and swastika. The background on the shield is actually a light blue/grey on the decal sheet but turns out to be almost white when applied. Oh, and I installed the tail wheel to lessen the chance of the fragile yoke being broken. The rudder actuator cables were also brush painted in Steel but I will need to touch up around this opening and on the strut. Also, the jack point hole was drilled out."Beware Beginners"! The reference pic actually shows the starboard side of the aircraft and the script can be seen there. It's very likely that it would have appeared on the port side as well. At this point, you can also see that I removed the mask from the quarter panel, drilled an angled hole, and inserted a piece of brass tube with the end cut on a slant to represent the flare tube. This was secured with CA glue. The flare tube with an initial coat of paint. The quarter window would have been replaced with a metal plate and so was therefore painted. At the moment, the detail here isn't very clean in the closeup so further work is needed to tidy this up a bit. Trim tab stencil: And finally, the frame numbers which were a pain in the butt. With the decals now on, I'll seal them with another clear coat and add a bot more 71 mottling as Black 6's contemporaries were quite dark on the sides. Thanks once again for visiting!
    4 points
  44. Final is the canopy. As you know in the first limit edition, you have one clear brown sprue to replicate the tint canopy. I send Tamiya 1/48 F-16CJ tint canopy part to factory as their reference to mix the right color. But unfortunately (just as other "expected" issues), the color was too light and they started mass production before obtaining my approval to catch the schedule. So for my own built, I decide to "tint" the canopy my self. I also used Future wax to improve the clear parts. Really super impressive! I coated the canopy by Gunze Creos Mr Color GX109 clear brown. Just Tamiya F-16 clear part sprue as the standard for color tone. To be continued...
    4 points
  45. thanks so much guys - I am learning so much! I can also see from those two pictures John that the 'crosses' in the treads are actually not modified diamonds like I thought, but a new shape of its own. These are really good for basing a new design on. And Dave, please don't worry, I think half the fun is unravelling little mysteries like this and I am still amazed at how you just turned out that tyre & tread. Mine has 45 going around the perimiter so is cobblers basically... great to learn about the hub too so I have a lot to think about when I get back to designing stuff... so.. we have a part... an actual, totally real, not made up on a computer, bit of this model... this is the target for today, the seat back - this picture is actually Lopes Hope's seat being painted so lets see what needs to be featured...there is a big pipe based 'U' frame giving it structure (the holes are at the back and not seen so we don't need to worry about them..), and to this is rivetted a pressing for the seat back.. ..there are also two slots with little pressing covers near the top of the back.. ..the front with some more details is not from my aircraft, but the details are the same... here the holes at the front can be seen to be bigger and that pressing itself actually wraps the 'U' frame right up to the edge and is fixed with the rivets taht can be seen. Also there are two slots with strengthening plate borders to capture too.. ..after scaling the drawings I have I noted a few differences between them and the seat in Lope's Hope, so I went with what I could see - first thing to do was to also scale and produce a drawing from that photo to use as a template to make a 'buck' onto which I will try and make the seat back pressing.. ..I got a bit of perspex as it is hard and takes shaping with a dremel well.. ..soon I had made the seat back in reverse, and had bent some rod to make the 'U'.. ..I drew the 'U' onto a bit of litho so I could anneal the edges that need to take the curves, but leave the seat back rigid so it doesn't deform or easily get dents & dinks in it.. ..then the sheet was taped to the buck and the edges worked into the curves - this is actually the third one I made and by then had learned it is easier to make the holes in the back of the seat while it is still a flat, stiff sheet so you might just be able to see them at the top of the pressing... ..then after marking out, I used my hold'n'fold to hold the part right where I needed to cut it and just ran a blade along it's length so I can bend, flex & snap away the waste easily and neatly without bending the curves just made.. ..the pressing was then taped to the 'U' frame and the edges centralised to the 'U'pipe all the way around by trimming with a sharp blade & then taking it off and finishing by filing & sanding... ..I also need to clean up everywhere as there is dust from dremelling out that perspex buck... ..once the seatback had been cut to shape it was taped down onto perspex to have a go at adding the rivets with a pin in a pin vise.. ..the strengthening plates / doublers that go around the slots in the side of the pressing were made by first cutting out the inside by scoring a rounded rectange using a template and then breaking away the inside... ..then they are trimmed & shaped & the seat back finished off.. ..and the finished (and very first!) part... ..and with some of the 'this is how I got here' parts - I never look at these as failures (though it can be frustrating sometimes), I always look at them as little lessons in themselves that teach me how to make the part properly... ..so that is it - we actually have a part - now there are only 12,324 to go... TTFN Peter
    4 points
  46. And the blue is airbrushed, without forgetting the exterior of door and hatch:
    4 points
  47. Thank's Blitz,not sure about the prop yet,one thing Ive learnt today "never judge a decal sheet by it's colour" I had ruled out the kit decal's as they are too light and had to further rule out the box scheme as the codes were a strange greyish brown but after I got the Airfix roundel's on thought I'd try a letter (no harm done if it looked wrong whip it off sharpish),anyway once in water and off the backing sheet it looked fine spot on with Airfix's code letters from the newish tool kit so I'm happy I can offer a different scheme.
    4 points
  48. Sea Fury VX-730, 805Sqn RAN HMAS Sydney Korea 1951 Fisher Model & Pattern 1/32nd Sea Fury FB.11 Paint: Mr Hobby (main), Tamiya, Model Master Metalizer Lacquers Decals: Nova Scale Sea Fury Extras: Master Model: Gun Barrels & Pitot Probe set Fisher Model & Pattern: Diamond Pattern Tyres
    4 points
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