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Showing content with the highest reputation on 22/01/18 in all areas

  1. 22 points
    RAF Britannia C1 XM496 'Regulus' 26 Models kit, 1/144. The bus is an Oxford diecasts 'N' gauge model. Since seeing Ian Turbofan's and Dave Skoadriver's lovely Roden Britannias, I thought I must get one. Well here we are! This is from Ray at 26 decals, who sells several versions of the Roden kit with various option of his own decal sheets, all a bargain price. Rather than a civvy scheme I opted for this RAF version as I have happy memories of seeing them at Brize Norton in the 70's on several trips with the Air Cadets. As Ian and Dave pointed out, the kit is a real beauty, one of the best airliner kits available. I chose XM496 simply because it is the only genuine RAF Britannia still in existence. the only mods I made were to add a small teardrop blister on the underside between the wings. I struggled to find references, and just 'eyeballed' it from photos cutting up a 1/72 bomb to make the shape.. It meant that the underside 'towel rail' aerials were relocated to the top, again located according to photos. The underside 'teardrop'; I also opened up the cockpit area and scratched up some basic detail, as I was masking the cockpit glazing to leave it clear. The windows are so tiny, that I might not bother to do it again. So what next? I've got this lined up. Airfix VC10 with Braz Super VC10 conversion. Some guidance would be appreciated here, I think all I need is the leading edge extensions and engines/pylons, & some wing fences. The RAF VC10's were standard fuselages with these other 'Super' fittings right? Cheers John
  2. 12 points
    On the 18th May 1988 Rich Lepman, a US exchange pilot assigned to the Tigers, was lined up on the runway at the annual APC at RAF Akrotiri with his back seater Steve Smyth. They were part of a pairs take off for the sortie flying F-4J(uk) ZE362/V with a standard gun pod fitted. The start of the take off sequence went smoothly and as normal, but just as the Phantom went into V1, the front canopy detached much to the surprise of the crew. They then had to flying around for 20 minutes Phantom Cabriolet style until the runway was cleared of debris and a normal landing was made. Thanks for looking.
  3. 11 points
    Dear Colleagues After 3 years work off and on I finally finished the beast. You are looking at the 1/700 Fujimi kit of Kaga from late 1941 with Fujimi’s own PE and wood planking extra. Then it is dressed with Veteran models 12.7 cm AA guns, Lion Roar 25 mm AA guns, davits, Nanodread life boats and searchlights, Rainbow launches (I could go on). The sponson supports are largely scratch built. I am particularly proud of the Zeros waiting to take off. Rather than use decals these were spray painted using my own home-made masks. She was originally designed to be a battleship but following the limits of the Washington Treaty was converted to an aircraft carrier in 1933 initially with 2 flying off decks but this was then changed to having two enclosed hanger decks in 1935. In line with the doctrine of the time she retained a battery of 8" guns for self defence. With Akagi she formed the 1st Carrier Division which struck at Pearl Harbour. She was sunk at Midway in 1942. Hope you like it? Andrew
  4. 10 points
    Hi all, here's my latest, the Airfix 1/48 Seafire MK XVII. good kit, just replaced the exhausts with resin once from Quickboost. I held back on the weathering as it is a trainer, and I assumed that they would be kept clean. (And my salt weathering didn't quite work out lol)
  5. 9 points
    Hello folks, Again an Airfix Skyhawk! There is no after-market items used but a little of scratch for the cockpit, flaps and few details. The bombs are Hasegawa mk-83. Hope you like it, cheers
  6. 9 points
    This is an A-model 1/72 scale KA-26 Hungarian crop duster. Lots of scratch building. Fuel control levers were added, rotor control locks were added in the cockpit as were tape for the seat belts. The rotor assembly was practically rebuilt, control tubes and pitch change links were all replaced by styrene rod. The lifting ring on top of the rotor head was made be a curved piece of wire. The spray bars were built and added, using sprue rod and tiny cut pieces of plastic rod for the spray nozzles. Scale rope was used as the pressure lines to the spray bars while thread was used to simulate the high pressure line to the rear spray bar. The pesticide bin was made from a Testor's Clear Glue cap and reinforced with styrene rod to look like weld. A drive shaft was added to power the pump at the bottom of the bin as were some odds and ends for the loading port. I also opened one of the pods and used a 1/144th radial engine to recreate the 325 hp (239 kW) Vedeneyev M-14V-26 radial engine. I also added copper wire strands to replicate the fire detection system on the inner engine panel. It was then heavily weathered to replicate oil stains. See the link below to see why! Whew! (Side note: My kit caused a squabble among the contest judges, as they never saw a helicopter like this before, so I was awarded silver. However, the gentleman who built the V-22 Osprey seen in the back ground was president of an IPMS chapter and a master modeler himself, told the judges they got it wrong. He then forfeited his first place gold to me! That, in itself, was the greatest compliment I ever received in modelling!) This is one small model helicopter!
  7. 9 points
    I believe I heard something about that, so I'll go with that scenario! Many thanks Tony! A decent iron certainly helps with the soldering.... Thanks John, I hope lunch was edible after spending your time here! OK, so after having fixed something that apparently didn't need fixing anyway, just a little patience, I moved on with the canopy parts. First, I tried to figure out how to attach the wiring on the engine gauges. The answer was, don't! They are simply bent to look right and left at that. No point in making additional work when it's not needed! Then the lower canopy parts were attached. The secret is SLOW! Get it lined up, tack it with Plastic Weld, then gentle pressure to keep it where it needs to be. Finally, Plastic Weld carefully let into the seems, to secure it all where it needs to be. It WILL line up nicely, just don't try to do it all at once, and be patient! Next up, the ventral gondola. Again, patience, line it up carefully, then zap it! The forward fairing part was attached first, and needed a little careful sanding around the edges to get it to fit without spreading the sides of the main clear part and making that too wide to fit properly. Once again, patience and constant trial fitting is required. The rear part, with the MG attachment, seems to fit pretty much perfectly, so it will be tacked on for painting, then removed to add the gun and reattached and touched up afterwards. That's the plan anyway. Then I had to think about the gunner's seat, something I'd been putting off. I used Jammy Dog micro masking tape for the sling and then added a piece of Tamiya tape cut to shape for the seat part. It was all given a coat of RLM02 and a grey wash. I'm happy with that, so it was glued in place That, folks, is where she sits tonight. Progress may be slow from now on as I have an interview next weekend in Dubai. Flying out on Friday night and returning Monday morning. A long weekend beckons, and if I get the job, an even longer hiatus with training and relocation......I'll keep you all posted! Ian
  8. 9 points
    Thanks Simon One cream cake and on goes half a stone??!! Where do you get your cakes? Thanks Benedikt - glad to hear there were no broken windows, always scary during a storm. I had a (long) search for needle files and, apart from one diamond thingy at over £30 (no, not even me) I searched BM again and ordered some from Paul that Nigel recommended. Thanks Simon and apologies for telling the workers what a grand life us retired lot have... you'll be there before you know it! Thanks Johnny Yep, sanding after painting was a bit of a big step for me but I've seen others doing this - you know the ones who apply paint to find imperfections - and thought 'Hey, if you're not happy, go for it'. We'll see tomorrow if I made the right decision but I think the 'secret' is feathering the paint so as to not get (hopefully) lumps and bumps. Thanks John, very kind Brian! Welcome! I'm really pleased you're following and that you like the progress so far. I hope I'm picking up the bits and pieces you showed me during the walk around, although I did resist 'doing a Nigel' and modelling the fire extinguisher! Thanks again for the flight - the memory will be with me for a long while and I'm very grateful Not much progress this weekend. Yesterday we went up to London for the eldest's birthday. Decided to get the train and was initially excited that, when it arrived, it was one of the new 'should have been electric' Hitachi trains. Sadly the back set was broken and locked so the train was as crowded as the old ones they're supposed to replace. Already. And the reservation system wasn't working. What's wrong with these people? I remember when they proudly launched the 'Adalante' replacements for the HST and they left service after a few months with, apparently, no cost to the tax payer as they hadn't met their quality of service parameters. The HSTs got upgraded and they're still trundling. Ho hum. Went to the Sir John Soane Museum - a great place and I was really impressed by the guided tour Mrs B had booked. Well worth a visit. Nice lunch and then back on the train - same set - this time with paper reservation cards. Sometimes the old ways are best? Out to my sister's today so very little done, but I have masked the wheel wells (a la Stew) and the rest of the model with the masking sheet Hendie reminded me I had: What overspray? by Ced Bufton, on Flickr I'll hopefully get that sprayed tomorrow and have a play with the new MAC valve.
  9. 7 points
    Hi, my first time posting here though I've been lurking around the forums for a while. I usually just post on modelwarships.com forums but here's some ship love! So here's my latest model of the Uss James E Williams made out of the Trumpeter Uss Momsen kit and with new Pontos detail set. Also thousands of scratch build details and modifications! You can find the build log here for those that are intrested: http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=166129 Reference used: https://www.navysite.de/dd/ddg95gallery.htm and https://www.navysite.de/dd/ddg95phototour.htm So without further ado here she is! And more full resolution pictures here! https://imgur.com/a/iLEh5 Cheers!
  10. 7 points
    I've had this kit in the stash for some time, but also now have the much more up to date Kinetic kit. I therefore decided to take a flight of fancy and do it as a What If USAF ANG aircraft re-engined with a P&W F-100 taken from a kaput F-15E kit (together with the ACES II seat). Painted with Hataka Orange Line paints, weathering being a Flory Models dark dirt wash, and Tamiya Smoke. Decals came from an Eagle strike set. TBH this build has helped keep my head straight as my brother was diagnosed with terminal cancer just before Christmas, and passed away last Tuesday at the age of 56, can't tell you how torn up i am about this, but messing with bits of plastic and visiting forums such as this does help. Anyway enough waffle, here's a few pics (one day I will sort a proper set up for taking pics!): Mirage 2000C ‘what if’ by bryn robinson, on Flickr Mirage 2000C ‘what if’ by bryn robinson, on Flickr Mirage 2000C ‘what if’ by bryn robinson, on Flickr Mirage 2000C ‘what if’ by bryn robinson, on Flickr Mirage 2000C ‘what if’ by bryn robinson, on Flickr
  11. 7 points
    #1/2017 So, finally also my dad has finished his first model in the new year, continuing the Near/Middle East theme with an IAF Meteor that fought during the Suez Crisis in 1956. The Meteors were Israel´s first jet aircraft, therefore they served in the No.117 Squadron, also called the "First Jet Squadron". Airfix kit, Isradecals, Vallejo Metal Color Aluminium, antennas on spine are scratch. DSC_0001 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0016 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0017 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0018 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0019 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0020 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr
  12. 7 points
    Rescued this one from the bottom of the stash as I felt sorry for it. Decals were useless but luckily I had a spare set from a later 'Nose Art' boxing. Actually not a bad kit for its age, its wheels look a bit crude by modern standards and cockpit was a bit bare but otherwise it looks like a P-47 to me. Pilot is was a spare from a 'crashed' aircraft. I had to spend a lot of time polishing out the scratched canopy but I think it was worth the effort. As per norm, Vallejo model air paints.
  13. 7 points
    Don't look very good do they? The paint build up stiffener plates I mean They can be felt by fingertips but they will be needing some extra enhancement which means I will probably outline them with a number 10 or 11 scalpel blade That might give some more substance to them with any luck I made castings of the auxiliary finlets from my Eastern Express (Frog moulds) Gannet because I mislaid the ones off this version many moons ago, I think that worked OK Here's the overall view this morning Don't underestimate the power of resin, says me This saves one of these kits from the spares box and I have Airwaves to fit It was 'club' this afternoon so I didn't get much spare time today but one little embellishment task I undertook, using my 4+ book plans was adding the thin fairings over the flap actuator mechanism Well six of the eight anyway, the ones at the wing roots will be done tomorrow She is coming along I feel, these will need additional chamfering to the pre-fitting chamfering I gave it, ready to test the 'fit' Yes the fairing over the starboard outer position shifted under the action of the clamp, since put right but I didn't have time before club to take any more photos
  14. 7 points
    I know I said that was me for this week but the tail flash was bugging me so I whipped it off, did a bit of careful masking and sprayed the tri band on the tail. The masking and painting gods have been on my side as it turned out ok. That is definatley me for the time being. Cheers and have a good week. Iain
  15. 6 points
  16. 6 points
    Another one that I have cleared off the shelf and finally finished. The lovely Airfix Supermarine Swift FR.5. Built as WK281 and flown by Flight Lieutenant Nigel Walpole, No. 79 Sqn, RAF Germany, Gutersloh, April 1956. I am almost reaching the stage where I can start building for myself and actually keep the model....!!! Cheers all, Phil
  17. 6 points
    I'm calling this finished now. I just got to make it an appropriate base but the main construction and painting's done. Put quite a lot of work into making this look not so much of a toy. Had to drill three holes and two slots in each side of the container pod because surprise surprise Revell didn't include them.
  18. 5 points
    About 10 years ago my father started the RoG Do217 but I don´t know why anymore, it didn´t make it to finish. Some years ago I managed to get him the ProModeler version of that kit second hand. In 2013 he then thought it´s time to build that German Medium. The kit was built oob, only seatbelts and antenna wire added. For the RLM 72 and 73 he used models and paint mixing suggestions on the web as reference and mixed it out of several Gunze and Tamiya acrylics. Not 100% satisfied with the colors, but I think they look ok. Quality and fit of the kit were very good, only had troubles with the decals, maybe due to bad storage, they were very brittle and had to be mostly puzzled together.
  19. 5 points
    Hasegawa 1/48 plus Eduard, Master and CMK resin. Camo - Major Edward Rector - Flying Tigers - 76 F.S. 23 F.G. China july 1942.
  20. 5 points
    Anonymous Nimrod MR.1! All the tiny decals finally done, some are just a millimetre, but it is strangely rewarding to get them all on correctly. Ready for the fun bit tomorrow - roundels and serials!
  21. 5 points
    Don't worry, nobody's going to notice that little black mark in amongst all the bloodstains!
  22. 4 points
    All finished!Nice "little" build. Weathering finished off with AK Interactive pigments. Still getting the hang of them, but getting better. Mainly painted with Hataka Orange Line paints. Set off on a Coastal Kits Display Base. Ian G-2 by ian gaskell, on Flickr Ian G-2 by ian gaskell, on Flickr Ian G-2 by ian gaskell, on Flickr Ian G-2 by ian gaskell, on Flickr Ian G-2 by ian gaskell, on Flickr Ian G-2 by ian gaskell, on Flickr Ian G-2 by ian gaskell, on Flickr Ian G-2 by ian gaskell, on Flickr Ian G-2 by ian gaskell, on Flickr Ian G-2 by ian gaskell, on Flickr
  23. 4 points
    You may be happy to know then that the organization in which I sit on the board is restoring a former Spartan B.35 CF-HMS (RAF serial RS700) to taxi condition and that it will sport its Spartan Air Services paint scheme. See more here: http://www.calgarymosquitosociety.com/home.htm Our quarterly report closing out 2017 has just been posted there. Andy
  24. 4 points
    I spent a little time today making the rods for the cross braces and later I'll probably cut the brass for the replacements for the WM in the main upper rear brace. To start with here is a picture from yesterday that shows the rear L braces from a more head on view. I think that these brackets hold the air filter boxes on the engine. I just put some pins in to hold them while I checked the alignment. I need to look at reference picture to see how much they need to be moved to be straight or not. Here's today's scratch building of the rods. Here is the brass tubing cut prior to some file work and soldering. Laid out for measurement and to check round file work on the tubing ends. Soldering the ends on One done to check the length Center rod checking length and where to drill the holes circled in red. This rod doesn't get the ends like the cross braces. Rods are soldered and mocked up in place to check length and fit. Some filing and sanding to be done to clean up the excess solder and I will have to drill the bracket holes some for the bolts. It seems that, almost every PE bracket that will take a bolt needs to be drilled out for the bolt to go through. These were already made before I discovered the problem.
  25. 4 points
    Excelent work. I’d get yourself some more bottles of “precision tools” and call it a good job. Johnny.