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Showing content with the highest reputation on 21/01/18 in all areas

  1. 29 points
    Hello folks, Again an Airfix Skyhawk! There is no after-market items used but a little of scratch for the cockpit, flaps and few details. The bombs are Hasegawa mk-83. Hope you like it, cheers
  2. 19 points
    This is Airfix's new Mustang finished as the mount of S/L Witold Tokuciewski of 303 Sqn. It was originally going to be in a RNZAF scheme but the black & yellow chequerboards on the fuselage sides disintegrated & curled up so, in the words of Wile E Coyote, back to the old drawing board. In the end I used Kagero's Mustangs over Europe, part 1, I also used Eduard's Zoom set for the cockpit. The kit goes together well but looks a little odd when you open the box due to the clever way it is engineered. This is my first attempt at NMF, I used AK Interactive paints which performed well although the black base was a bit patchy - but that was probably me. Next NMF aircraft will be the Eduard Mirage III. Any comments or criticisms welcome as always. Thanks for looking. Pete
  3. 15 points
    Hi folks Nakajima Type 97 KATE B5N2 Japanese Carrier Torpedo Bomber kit is from Hasegawa a rebox of Mania tooling of 70s, but then being dated doesn't mean it is bad, it is sophisticated and holds up till now. Instructions were simple and construction was smooth, just that it needs little filler near the wings. I used Humbrol and Tamiya for the paints. I rendered the aircraft with heavy chipping to show it has extensive service. Hope it has turned out ok. Thanks
  4. 14 points
    All finished!Nice "little" build. Weathering finished off with AK Interactive pigments. Still getting the hang of them, but getting better. Mainly painted with Hataka Orange Line paints. Set off on a Coastal Kits Display Base. Ian G-2 by ian gaskell, on Flickr Ian G-2 by ian gaskell, on Flickr Ian G-2 by ian gaskell, on Flickr Ian G-2 by ian gaskell, on Flickr Ian G-2 by ian gaskell, on Flickr Ian G-2 by ian gaskell, on Flickr Ian G-2 by ian gaskell, on Flickr Ian G-2 by ian gaskell, on Flickr Ian G-2 by ian gaskell, on Flickr Ian G-2 by ian gaskell, on Flickr
  5. 13 points
    A kit that has been lurking in the stash for a while. Decent enough but I did have trouble lining up the engines and wings to the fuselage. And it needs huge amounts of weight in the nose. Finished in Vallejo Modelair silver and white. Quite a big aeroplane, almost the size of the Nimrod I finished a few weeks ago. 1. 2. 3. 4.
  6. 13 points
    SAM-2 kit from Trumpeter, scale 1/35, anti-aircraft missile on semi-trailer mounted behind the ZIL vehicle. Used patina - oil paints, Tamiya pigments.
  7. 12 points
    Hasegawa 1/48 plus Eduard, Master and CMK resin. Camo - Major Edward Rector - Flying Tigers - 76 F.S. 23 F.G. China july 1942.
  8. 12 points
    Hi all, here's my latest, the Airfix 1/48 Seafire MK XVII. good kit, just replaced the exhausts with resin once from Quickboost. I held back on the weathering as it is a trainer, and I assumed that they would be kept clean. (And my salt weathering didn't quite work out lol)
  9. 9 points
    ! have the process of uploading pictures under the knee now -as we dutch say- meaning: I know now how to upload pictures. let me see now if I can place them on the place of my choice ,meaning here ,reasdy for inspection department. I intend to show my 1/72 supermodel pipistrello. an austere kit but I 'm not unhappy with the result .was built in 2016 summer,if I remember well. PS ,I forgot to tell something important ,when trying the metod of camoufaging above ,if you try yourselves ,put the maskol on while changing repeatedly from left wing and reverse fter having finshed a part of a wing . it is much easier to keep the camouflage symmetric on both wings! and and and and and in a not too distant future I hope to have better pictures to show here but I am only practizing my uploads technics ,is my [pretty lame] excuse for the poor quality. I became member of this forum pretty un-expectedly i saw on britmodeller an omega De Monge M-101 C2 -a copy of a Koolhoven FK.31 that I have built myself,exactly tthe same kit and real aircraft- built by someone who was not very enthousiastic about those omega kits . me on the contrary like them very much -most are not very expensive if not bought at hannants or aviation megastore- and have quite a lot of them ,built and in my stash [they have a loverly collection kits from early dutch airforce, many fokkers that fkew in the LVA=early dutch airforce up to ww2 ,being ftom holland they have a special appeal to me] . and know a place where you can buy them for about half the price one has to pay at hannants [google with the words "omega kits" and you will fimd without problem,or ask me]or aviation megastore.andI wanted to share with him that knowledge en show him my omega kits ,to let him know what an not very professional builder can make of those kits .for doing those things I had to become a member of this forum and voila ,here I am ,please to meet you all!
  10. 9 points
    Hi, This is the Airfix 1/72 model of the Boulton Paul Defiant painted to represent the one flown by Squadron Leader Gatheral, officer commanding 256 Squadron in May 1941. The model was firstly sprayed grey followed by a loose spray coat of black by which I tried to recreate a slightly weathered look. The decals used were a combination of the kit decals, which to be honest were rather thick and didn't really seat correctly plus odds and sods from model decal sheets. Boulton Paul Defiant I, No N3500, coded JT-B, took of from its base at Squires Gate near Blackpool on the 8th May 1941 at 00.20 hours to carry out a night fighter sortie in the Liverpool area, the aircraft was piloted by Squadron Leader G. H. Gatheral the Squadron Commanding Officer and his air gunner was Flying Officer D. S. Wallen. A JU88 was spotted at 16,000 feet and the rear gunner opened fire from 100 yards registering hits on the fuselage being the wing root. Unfortunately the Defiant was hit in the glycol tank by return fire and the cockpit and turret filled with liquid and fumes. The pilot and gunner baled out and the aircraft crashed in flames near St. Helens. I hope you like it, Russ
  11. 9 points
    Please remind me: were the Kardashians the ones with wrinkly foreheads and webbed feet in an episode of Star Trek, or were they in a very old Doctor Who series?
  12. 8 points
    Hi guys, another year, hope you're all fighting fit and raring to go. This is a pre-production build of the new Airfix B-25C/D Mitchell that I finished in November for the January issue of Airfix Model World magazine. A great little model of a very impressive aircraft. There were a couple of issues with this example though, one possibly to do with the pre-production nature of the kit, the other more a simple fix really. On this example, the height of the right side of the rear fuselage where the tailplane sits was some 2mm higher than the left which meant that the horizontal tail sat at an odd angle. Some simple, but careful filing of the fuselage top surface was needed to bring everything into line and hopefully, this problem is only restricted to this example, but it's something to look out for. The other issue concerned the location of the main gear legs which is a tad suspect as the leg just clips into a shallow trough on the undercarriage roof which led to a decidedly wobbly assembly, especially with those big balloon tyres. The easy answer was to add a couple of brass rods to each leg to stabilise the parts. Thankfully these are hidden inside the nacelles and can't be seen from the outside. I realise this doesn't sound ideal for a new release particularly in regard to folks new to the sport but hopefully, full production kits will improve on things. The rest of the kit is good though as ever some details aren't quite correct such as the fact that Desert Warrior had a .50 cal position in the lower right position in the nose glazing meaning that I had to drill out the glazing and fit a gun from the spares box. The canopy pilots side window had a noticeable flow line so was removed and an acetate replacement added. This, in turn, meant I could have the window open adding a bit more interest. Decals are good and went on without issue and the choice of markings was definitely interesting. Optional parts are included for the two versions including engine nacelles, dropped or raised flaps, positionable flying surfaces and different windscreen framing. The bomb bay is nicely rendered as are the four 500 lb bombs complete with stencil markings. Look forward to the RAF Mitchell II later in the year... Hope you like it. Cheers Melchie
  13. 8 points
    Now then <using Brian Clough voice> I will brook none of that talk here young man. Reality takes an awful bashing at my hands too Ced - which is why it's so great on here to have the likes of Crisp and Steve (who have actually made the real thing go whoosh and whirr from the pilot's seat) along with the expert engineering eyes of Bill the file Ian the wood Tomo the miniature Keith the wise hendie the kitbaiter Johnny the paint <in fact just insert name of everyone who's commented on my work to complete the list> All of whom have served to point out my countless errors and misconceptions along the way Remember when I stuck the cargo hold for this together back-to-front not so long ago? Not mentioning my stalled plans for a kitbash between a Heninkel and a Lancaster - the Heincaster (rare as hen's teats) Oh yea my brother, and there was rejoicing upon the land: Quite by accident I almost entirely failed to get glue all over the transparencies: The epoxy seems to have done the trick, so I want to have a go at building the windscreens as a single unit next, leaving the triangular corner windows until last. To say that I'm pleased/relieved would be an understatement - as long as I'm careful in not exerting any undue pressure (gluing, masking, demasking &etc.), the glue bonds seems nice and secure for the task in hand: to be paranoid I'm going to give it another few hours to fully cure before gluing the aforementioned windscreens on next. If I punch this shot up again: You can see that the framing of the windows themselves would lend itself quite nicely to the use of strips of adhesive metal foil with the rivetting tool run across it just prior to painting. Right. I think that's earned a third Belgian waffle. What do these two herberts want? Ah, it's milk o'clock that's what.... I've another hour or two of prepping stuff for work tomorrow morning and then I want to put such cares behind me for an hour or two at the bench. Hope to catch you this afternoon/evening. Tony
  14. 8 points
    Some more filler on top of the nacelles Untitled by jongwinnett, on Flickr and I have started to add the bomb bay gubbins Untitled by jongwinnett, on Flickr As seen earlier, the central divider needed some plastic strip to pack the gaps (still to be trimmed at the front when set) Untitled by jongwinnett, on Flickr And I've started on the bombs, but they weren't very well moulded. I need a suggestion for the mustard colour, or would they be green by Autumn 1940? Untitled by jongwinnett, on Flickr Such precision modelling (!?!) needs precision tools. Untitled by jongwinnett, on Flickr thats enough for tonight, I'm off to watch Where Eagles Dare and drink the precision tools...
  15. 8 points
    'Feller could have a pretty good weekend in Vegas with all that sterfff....' Thanks Moneypenny....Err..I mean Q. Until now, it hasn't been necessary.... Until now. Too late anyway : That sounds perfect hendie, for exactly the reasons you outline vis-a-vis strength and texture. I haven't smoked for over 15 years however and with tabs at about €12 for 20 here I shall have to seek a source at work. Great suggestion! After a snooze earlier I carried on investigating the cockpit as from viewing videos (in order to get a better sense of space than static photographs alone can give) I convinced now that there are issues with what Italeri have done inside here regarding the arrangement of features. I'd mentioned earlier about suspecting two issues: that the pilot and co-pilot seats were positioned as if scooted back for access and not correct for a flying posture. that the rudder pedals were too far back from the IP. With one of the PJ Productions' transport pilots in place, these problems leap into focus. Too much separation between seat and rudder pedals: Plus rudder pedals at least 5mm too far back from IP: This seems pretty conclusive to me that some urgent medical attention is needed to bring the Pelican back to full health: To the left is the current kit positioning of these items, to the right, a visualization of what I think needs attention - the red line indicating the need for both pilot's seats and mountings to move forward by 7mm or so, and the rudders by at least 5mm, so that they are under the IP. In flying mode the pilot's knees should be broadly in line with the rear edge of the drum-like throttle/flap quadrant (the bit cut out at present in the shots above). I should say that Italeri are not at fault regarding the positioning of the seats by any means - for an aircraft on the ground that is - when it seems natural enough for them to be scooted back along the rails. In the shot below you can see the pilot's seat displaced back in contrast to co-pilot's one still forward enough for flying: The spatial relationship between rudder pedals and IP is definitely wrong though IMO. Well then. Rudder pedals are coming off, along with the chair mounts that will have to be redone from scratch. I've made a start on the IP: That region is not completely open around the rudder pedals so you need to be careful if cutting out this part- there is a central divider between each set of pedals and a triangular framework extending out from the lower sides of the IP to the cockpit wall on either side, like so: I should be able to rustle up some replacement pedals from brass, but don't be expecting the Fairchild logo on 'em... Night all.
  16. 7 points
    Airfix Be2C built straight from the box, only addition is Uschi Van Der Rosten rigging ( Superfine 0.001mm-super duper thin!) White was Halfords spray, everything else brush painted with Vallejo acrylics. Weathering with Games Workshop washes/inks Still needs a couple of bits of tidying up, but putting it aside after all the rigging!! Temporary base for photography, will get proper base done with figures at somepoint. Very impressed with the engineering of this kit, very nice build
  17. 7 points
    Eduard's now OOP 1/48 Fokker E.V, built mostly OOB save for the gorgeous Master turned brass MG cooling jackets and barrels. Lovely little kit, although getting the wing straight & level was a PITA. Constructive criticism welcome! Cheers, Tony Bell
  18. 7 points
    Another one that I have cleared off the shelf and finally finished. The lovely Airfix Supermarine Swift FR.5. Built as WK281 and flown by Flight Lieutenant Nigel Walpole, No. 79 Sqn, RAF Germany, Gutersloh, April 1956. I am almost reaching the stage where I can start building for myself and actually keep the model....!!! Cheers all, Phil
  19. 6 points
    Happy Birthday Britmodeller! I intend to join the party with the Takom 1/35 Chieftain Mk.10. The Chieftain was the United Kingdom's first Main Battle Tank, which entered service in 1966. It sported a 120mm rifled L11A5 gun and impressive armour. During initial design of the Chieftain NATO specified that all new tanks should have multi fuel engines which could run off of pretty much any combustible liquids. Britain was the only country which followed this guideline, and the Chieftain was equiped with the Leyland L60 multi fuel engine. The concept of the engine was good but it turned out to be extremely unreliable. Despite reliability issues the Cheiftain was arguably the best tank of the Cold War era. In 1985 the Mk.10 entered service. The main modification of this mark was the introduction of StillBrew armour. This armour package saw the thickness of the armour increase significantly to counter more modern soviet weaponry. The profile of the tank changed due to this making it look a lot more aggressive. In my opinion this was the greatest Mark of the Chieftain and would extend its lifespan into the 1990s. I will be modelling this kit in the Berlin Brigade scheme as per the box art. It consisted of large blocks of white, grey and brown which proved to be very effective in an urban environment. I will be building straight out of the box. As you will see in the photos you get an awful lot of plastic and PE for your money. It seems to be very well moulded and on high quality plastic. First impressions are very good. Feel free to comment or question along the way, hopefully you will enjoy the build and will joy me for it. It has taken me some time to pluck the courage to start this one so wish me luck!
  20. 6 points
    I picked this up for £2 at a charity thing. Couldn't bear to see it sit there, badly made and unloved. After some effort getting it apart (some was put together with superglue but there's no substitute for an hour or two in the freezer to make things brittle), I got it in bits. The battery compartment in the Airfix original needed a lot of hacking and cutting to make the proportions correct - the original amount of room between the driver and the steering wheel was entirely physically impossible to drive. The original is painted red, it's just been done in such a way as to remain looking like red plastic.
  21. 6 points
    #1/2017 So, finally also my dad has finished his first model in the new year, continuing the Near/Middle East theme with an IAF Meteor that fought during the Suez Crisis in 1956. The Meteors were Israel´s first jet aircraft, therefore they served in the No.117 Squadron, also called the "First Jet Squadron". Airfix kit, Isradecals, Vallejo Metal Color Aluminium, antennas on spine are scratch. DSC_0001 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0016 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0017 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0018 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0019 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0020 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr
  22. 6 points
    Plating Unlike on most modern submarines, E-class hulls displayed some prominent plating. I'm guessing that these plates were either an artefact of the contemporary construction methods or were there to provide additional strength in some critical areas. In my view, this surface texture adds character to the vessel and will add interest to the model. It has to go on. On the top of each saddle tank, just on or above the surface-trim water-line there is a single elongated plate that I wish to recreate. On the photograph below I have added some crude red lines to indicate the bits that I'm talking about. Initially I was going to use my Nobel prize-winning half-lamination technique for this, but I decided that the resulting plate would look too prominent and too thick. Instead, I have turned to Tamiya's thinnest PLA plastic (0.14mm). I think that this stuff, as per MollytheDog's comment above, really is just super-thin plastic sheeting - nevertheless I can say that it really is super-thin and so for creating a streamlined surface detail like this one, it's very good. Here I've cut out a pattern for the shape and stuck it onto some PLA plastic with a bit of 'UHU Stic' glue - the same stuff kids use at school. I still haven't got any of that spray-on photo adhesive yet, but I'll get some one day... Anyway, obviously enough, once the paper pattern is stuck on I just cut it out with scissors. The PLA Plastic Paper really is like paper in this regard. Once cut to shape, I threw the whole lot into a sink with some luke warm sudsy water and the paper lifted off easily leaving nice clean plastic. Then the two plates got stuck on with a bit of super glue. Alongside each of these large long bits of plating there are four little ovalish plates. I really don't know what these are for but think that they might be removable access points for access to flood control valves or some such. Whatever they are they are quite visible (there's one at the tip of the burgundy pencil in the photo below) so they have to go on too. I knocked out eight small circles of PLA plastic using my little disk punching tool. Ideal! Then used a razor blade to trim them as shown. After a bit more rounding and trimming I ended up with this. Note that number 8 in the sequence below has had a bit too much knocked off it and had to be replaced. Carefully scale off the location of each of these little blobs - and glue them on. Leaving this... As you can see, there are also some carefully positioned new panels on the side of the casemate. Next posting there will be a myriad of minor details to go onto the hull. Slowly making progress on this one. Best Regards, Steve
  23. 6 points
    And here's the result, inspired by the model size comparison composites that Andy Moore made. What I lack in measuring up to the quality of those models, I make up in quantity, heh. :). This is most of the standalone models I built in 2017, along with a couple of unmodified F-Toys 1:144 ships that fit in nicely. Everything here is Bandai, F-Toys, or scratch built.
  24. 6 points
    Part 3 Fitment of the front part of the lower wing /main gear bay /forward lower fuselage. I made sure it was flush with the front of the lower fuselage (under the nose) and glued it there first from the inside. There is some nice detail there so I wanted to get this join as good as possible. There is a tiny gap there and on the right hand side a fraction proud (by fraction we're talking less than 0.0005 thou. This may have been the melted plastic squeezed out from the glue join and was easily removed by scraping with a sharp knife. Once this set I then glued the rest of piece in place. There was a tiny gap along the leading edge of the wing and along the join on the fuselage. The join on the forward vertical surface needs to be filled anyway but you don't really want a step. Apart from the tiny gap the fit is fine with no step on both sides. The upper cowl was fitted at this stage. The instructions called for it to be fitted earlier but I'd dry fitted then, saw it fitted perfectly then decided I wanted to glue the lower pieces from the inside. Eduard, take a note... this is what you should have done with your Spitfire cowl's , instead of that stupid 2 piece arrangement Onto the tail planes. I ended up with little gaps here but I think it was because I rushed the fitment and didn't do a good enough job on the mating surfaces. There is a supposed to a join here, but this was a little to wide for my taste so I smeared some filler into the gap. Now the the airframe is pretty much complete so I removed the other parts from the sprue I needed to use and got them ready for painting. The prop tips and gear doors have some tiny sink marks that need filler The exhausts are but would benefit from being drilled out. I had a go at this and got most of them done OK, bu hose up a couple. I'll need fill the holes and try and redrill those but I think I'll look at some aftermarket ones . The wheels are probably the weakest parts of the kit. The wheels are 2 part affairs that don't have tread right up to the join which is a shame as they go together OK and the tread that is there is nice. And although you'd lose some detail when removing the join you'd still more tread to either re-scribe or still have a tyre that looks serviceable. I have got some Eduard wheels coming which I think I'll use. The drop tanks is nice. Last thing was to fit the gunsight/glareshield/windscreen assembly. The way Airfix engineered this is excellent. The gunsight has a good joint to the glarsheild and the glare shield a good join to the forward windscreen piece. This assembly just clicks into place and fits (just about) perfectly. I did end up with a very tiny step (again less than 0.0005" ) on the right side that I removed with a couple of scrapes with a knife. The left side was perfect. Conclusions on the Build Experience. My initial impressions when looking at this kit in the box was that it looked overly complicated for a 1/48 kit and I was a little worried that those pieces of the internal assembly, which were also part of the external fuselage would cause issues. But after actually building it the kit is actually pretty simple to put together. I estimate I only spent about 6-8 hours assembling the kit and I enjoyed every minute of it (I do like building more than painting though). Everything fits as designed and those internal assembly/fuselage pieces I was worried about work well ensuring the internal assembly sits correctly in the fuselage. Even the fit issues I've found are very minor in nature and are probably due to me not cleaning up the sprue attachment points as well as I should. I also like the plastic Airfix have used, it scribes nicely in the few areas I needed to restore some panel lines The cockpit is great for a 1/48 kit out of the box and the engraving on the kit is excellent. Where possible , having a big clear plastic piece for the forward windscreen that also forms part of the fuselage is the way every windscreen part should be (The Tamiya's F-14 does this as well). The only areas that I think could be improved are the treaded wheels and exhausts. Plus, as I’m lazy I’d also like a mask set. This kit is nearly as good as the Eduard Spitfire kits, which are my current bench mark for 1/48 prop kits. It is definitely better than and more fun to build than the Tamiya kit. I don’t really like the Mustang but I’d build more of this kit. Spend the time doing the basics, especially cleaning up the sprue attachment points and you’ll be rewarded with a trouble free build. Now onto the painting...
  25. 6 points
    Thanks Ed, nice to know you think it's up reference standard - of course that could be "how not to".... Thanks Ced, almost done with that part now... Cheers Roger. It's been a lot of work but as mentioned above, there's a lot of canopy to see through, so I think it's worth the effort. So, what have I been up to since my last update? More cockpit work! I started on the upper canopy. The first thing I noticed was that the ridge moulded onto it for the instrument panel was too far forward, so that was removed. I then put the PE panel together, leaving out the kit part completely, and added very small pieces of rod to the back to represent the instruments. I didn't attempt to add all of them, just a few to busy it up a bit. The central wire trunking was also added. Since I'd added the instruments, I couldn't exactly leave it bare behind the panel, so I stripped some wire out of an old something-or-other, painted it white, and CA'd it in place to represent the wiring harnesses running to the IP and down to the engine instruments by the pilot's left hand. The spare magazines could then be added just ahead of the panel, after first adding a small wedge of plastic strip to the PE part so that it sat at more of an angle. PE added to the lower cockpit panels.... You'll notice I have used the part with the small crack. Airfix didn't have any replacements, and I think the cracked part will be less obtrusive than a much thinner replacement from packing material. With that all done, I could attach the upper canopy! Unfortunately, it seems to be a little too wide! It's not the fuselage being wrong, as it fits fine at the front end! I managed to correct it to some extent by squeezing it and applying Plastic Weld very carefully along the seams, one at a time. It's a lot better now, especially on the left side, but I may still have to sand and micromesh it...we'll see......and I'm still not sure how I'm going to attach the ends of the wiring harness to the engine instruments either Thanks for looking in! Ian
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