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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/07/17 in all areas

  1. 17 points
    Hobby Boss 1/48th F-111C Paint: Mr Hobby and Tamiya acrylics, Model Master Metalizer Lacquers Extras; Eduard BigSin F-111C set Eduard – F-111A Interior set Novascale – F-111C RAAF 1 & 6 Squadron decals OzMods – F-111 Afterburner Cans Ozmods – F-111C Wheels & Tires Ozmods – F-111C Long Range Fuel tanks Custom made and cast Recon Pallet. build link This was built as part of the F-111 STGB. I had always wanted to build an F-111 having worked on them in them in the 80’s with the RAAF, so though this would be the perfect opportunity. For something a bit different I’d build one of the Recon versions which I worked on, sounded simple…… My first mistake was the model, the Hobby Boss model for those who don’t know is an absolute dog of a model! Everything fits really well and is a joy to build, but not if you want an F-111 that’s accurate. If you want a F-111C forget it, and if you want a Pre-Pave Tack or Recon bird good luck!! This was going to be an uphill build right from the start plus I ended up being away for over 8 weeks of the build. The real hard part of the build was the Recon door, nobody turns out a 1/48th conversion kit, and the only conversion kit available anywhere is an old rough one in 1/72nd. I ended up using this for some of the design work. Actual detailed draws are just about non-existent as well (though someone here is bound to have some). So I had to make the door from scratch then cast it, for something so small there’s around 40 hours work in it. That part was easy! The rest of the build was such a pain in the a#*e! Anyone following could attest to my constant ranting about the model. If Hobby Boos had just spent 30 minutes of research on the internet they could have fixed the majority of issues with the model! Unfortunately in the end I just fell out of love with this build and the model, a bit heartbreaking actually for something I had really wanted to do. I ended up just going through the motions to finish her and get her off the bench! It was a hard build and definitely not some of my best work…though the Recon door did turn out quite nicely. Please Tamiya release a good 1/48th scale one….I now have a door for it!!!!! Thanks for looking and please enjoy, comments welcome, you can be a savage as you wish!
  2. 9 points
    Hello! Here are several photos of the construction and final result of the latest model to come out of my workbench. The airframe is painted in order to represent a C-47 in service with the Portuguese Air Force detachment on Lajes airfield, Terceira Island, Azores. The base was built by the RAF in 1943, as an effort to close the azorean gap which allowed german U-boats to run havoc amongst allied vessels. In 1945 it was passed on to the Portuguese forces, and since 1945/6 it has served as an American base. This scheme was not normalised and existed during 1952 only on this C-47 It`s the Airfix kit with the addition of Quickboost engines and wheels. Hope you like it! Cheers! José Pedro
  3. 9 points
    Hi, I've had this on the go for a while and finally got it finished today, it's the MPM kit of the PR10. Nothing wrong with the kit to cause a slow build just work getting in the way of good modelling time. The PR10 was a hybrid Meteor as it had an F8 fuselage but an F4 tail, with a long span wing and of course the camera nose. VS975 served only with 541 Squadron based in Germany from 1951 until it was scrapped in 1958. It was originally camouflaged and had the earlier part metal canopy. That makes 23 Meteors completed now. Thanks for looking. Steve
  4. 9 points
    Hello friends After some time away from the forums i would like to share this one with you. This is the 1/48 Hasegawa kit with the Aires cockpit and the Syh @rt decal set. I hope you like it Best Regards Vitor Costa
  5. 7 points
    Hi, Just finished this F-4B in VF-51 Screaming Eagles CAG Colors. This jet Killed one MIG and displayed the 4 MIG kills the squadron scored on its last Vietnam cruise. The kit is the new Zoukei-Mura F-4J kit with the following additions: Accessories used: Eduard Brassin F-4B wheels Master Metal Pitot tubes and AOA Sensor Eduard Brassin Seats w/ PE Furball Decals - They Fit Perfect! Scratch Built items are: Chin Pod Fin Cap Thin wing including the wheel well and speed brakes Non-Slatted Plain Elevator F-4B WSO left side panel F-4B WSO Upper and Mid forward Instrument Panel Scratch built Canopy sills, Breaker bar Short Exhaust Nozzle, Trim, Exhaust tube, and burner assembly Intake fans. (The Kit supplied full engines were not used)
  6. 7 points
    Today I started by finishing off the decals which was basically a few tiny stencils plus the danger warning on the tail: By the way the kit decals release very quickly and lay down well but they are very thin, fragile and highly prone to wrapping themselves into an untanglable bundle. Unfortunately I lost the serial number on this side due this behaviour. Definitely not the easiest decals to work with. I then gave the main rotors some droopage: I then tried to assemble the main rotor only to discover to my horror that I had glued the hub on upside down!! - how very embarrassing. After a bit of a think I decided that the best solution was to cut off the arms and drill and pin them back the other way using some 0.5mm brass rod. Here I am part way through the task:: Note also that the red decal band has come adrift. I glued the lose band back in position with some thinned Gator Grip and then assembled the rotor using Humbrol Liquid Poly: I then set that aside to dry and gave the craft and doors a second coat of Aqua Gloss to seal in the decals followed by a panel line wash using thinned Payne's Grey oil paint: This is how that came out: Next I assembled the hoist (which turned out to be a right game) plus the tail skid: While the touch ups on those were drying I started to make the navigation lights using some clear sprue, my burner and a 0.6mm hole in one of my punch sets: I made plenty of spares as these things are all too easy to lose. Tamaiya red and green clear was applied, I think three of four coats will be required: The last thing to add before the final coat of varnish was the fin: For the finishing varnish I used Alclad Klear Kote Semi-Matte as the real machines are quite glossy: During rotor repair operations half of the red band had gone missing: That was repaired with more red strip form the spares box here mounted up ready for final varnishing: I used W&N Galeria matt varnish on both rotors: Next some final assembly starting with the main wheels, note the distinctive tow in: I then added the front wheel and strut, trimming it to length until the distinctive angled down tail sit was achieved: In the end I didn't glue it in as it is a good fit and the wheel can now be steered if liked. I think this is one of the last painting jobs, adding matt black anti-slip to the front steps: The last job of the day was to unmask all the glazing and door openings: Nearly finished but not quite. I still have the brake lines, wires to the navigation lights, the lights themselves and the pitot tube to add. All jobs for next Saturday. Bye for now, Nigel
  7. 6 points
    Hi Guys and Gals Here's something I picked up earlier today to do as a display unit for my LHS. The plan is to do it as a 'staged' diorama showing the various build processes I've gone through to reach the end result. The kit (and an essential add-on): What you get in the box: The baseboard on a surrounding display board: Baseboard with the layout map overlaid on it: The Instructions: And finally - the initial layout plan: The page on the left shows the various stages I am going to follow (roughly). I've already cut out the bottom right corner of the map to expose the underlying base board, I'll then leave an exposed portion of the layout map, then a section of the ceramic 'stones' without any dressing, then dressed stones on a grass covered base with ageing, texture and weathering increasing towards the top left corner. Just gonna be a quick build this, but I'm tempted to get another of these kits for myself to do a more accurate, up-to-date representation of the 'Henge The ceramics are easily workable with scalpel and scribes. The glue is a quick drying general purpose glue which seems to work well. More pics to come through the week. Comments, questions and suggestions are welcomed. Thanks for looking Kev
  8. 6 points
    Today I finished this 1/72nd Airfix TBD Devastator. I've built it box stock with two exceptions, the addition of masking tape seat belts and a set of Tech Mod aftermarket decals. It's finished as the Battle Of Midway aircraft of Lieutenant Commander John C. Waldron, Torpedo Squadron 8, from the USS Hornet. If you're not familiar with the story of the ill fated VT-8 you can read about it here. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/VT-8 With some care and careful fitting it went together quite well. I paid special attention to the folding wing joints, prepping them for a good fit that would not require filling or sanding when done. By removing the locating pins I was able to build them first in top and bottom halves, taping them to a mirror to maintain perfect flatness and focus solely on getting the wing fold joints as I wanted. I decided to leave the raised rivet detail on the fuselage because I thought it both homage and emphasis of the anachronism that was the Devastator at the beginning of the war. I used Vallejo acrylics for the overall camouflage and Tamiya acrylics for the rest.
  9. 6 points
    Hi, everyone! I present you my next model of Japan ASW Patrol Aircraft.
  10. 4 points
    All fingers legs arms and toes crossed here that this coming week brings this particular model subject much closer to reality; subject to wind and tide, we should see a Royal Navy Aircraft Carrier back at sea for the first time in many years, ready for the first F-35B to land on later next year. These markings for 809 Sqn in HMS QUEEN ELIZABETH and HMS PRINCE OF WALES are largely from my own imagination and courtesy of my inkjet printer, but perhaps not that far from the truth. This is Fujimi's delightful 1/72 F-35B kit, with a little hacking about from me (e.g. the rather obvious auxiliary air inlet is missing on the kit) and my own decals. I haven't fitted any weapons in the open bays yet - but some scratch built Meteors and SPEAR 3s are on the workbench! For those who doubt that colour can ever be applied to these aircraft, check out the USN variants at sea now! And as a comparison, here she is alongside Italeri/Revell's old X-35B kit FLY (ROYAL) NAVY ! FredT
  11. 4 points
    G'day All, I'm calling this one as of now done. It's my take on the aircraft "flung" off HMAS Sydney between July - October 1918. Built OOB and rigged with Ez-Line. It's my third WNW kit. I experienced a bit of trouble with the decals cracking but other than that, any other dramas were of my own making. Apologies for the picture quality....one day I'll learn to take better ones....and today isn't it! Devo P.S. Rigging that little bullet fairing in the last pic was.......interesting
  12. 4 points
    Howdy Folks… After starting a thread a few months back entitled – ‘wheels up or down – what’s your opinion’? I decided it was time to have a go at a ‘wheels up’ aircraft – silly me… This was also a test for a lot of ‘newby’ questions I have been asking – so thanks to all the members that have chipped in along the way with useful suggestions about all the products and techniques used… Airfix – 1/48 Hurricane MKl Halfords Grey Undercoat Aerosol Fillers - Mr Dissolved Putty / Cyano and talc Vallejo Model Air Paints Humbrol Acrylic Gloss Varnish – hand brushed Decals from the Airfix ‘Ready for Battle’ kit Microsol / Microset Tamiya weathering powder set – snow white and soot Winsor and Newton Galleria Matt Varnish – airbrushed When it came to displaying the finished piece I really struggled for a solution – other than hanging it from the ceiling in the office. So I started another thread called – ‘wheels up aircraft - display inspiration PLEASE’ - thanks for all the ideas here too. The base is made from 18mm MDF for weight and the image on the top is a cloudscape that came from an internet wallpaper site. The ‘British Lion’ appeared almost by magic after a google search and seemed so appropriate. I wondered about adding some text and then it came to me - the Churchill quote – what could be better – I just wish I’d remembered to add 1940 to the dateline – DOH… I’m still very much a beginner – so any constructive comments would be appreciated. It has been fun and a brilliant learning experience – so here she is… Thanks for taking the time to have a look - Steve
  13. 4 points
    Another wonderful afternoon at Old Warden! Thanks for looking.
  14. 4 points
    The Boeing B-47 Stratojet was an American long range, six-engine, turbojet-powered strategic bomber designed to fly at high subsonic speed and at high altitude to avoid enemy interceptor aircraft. The B-47's primary mission was to drop nuclear bombs on the Soviet Union. With its engines carried in nacelles under the swept wing, the B-47 was a major innovation in post-World War II combat jet design, and contributed to the development of modern jet airliners. The B-47 entered service with the United States Air Force's Strategic Air Command (SAC) in 1951. It never saw combat as a bomber, but was a mainstay of SAC's bomber strength during the late 1950s and early 1960s, and remained in use as a bomber until 1965. It was also adapted to a number of other missions, including photographic reconnaissance, electronic intelligence and weather reconnaissance, remaining in service as a reconnaissance aircraft until 1969 and as a test bed until 1977. This is the Academy 1/144 B-47E, built out of the box and using the kit decals. Airbrushed using Vallejo paints and sealed with Alclad gloss. Finished in the markings of the 320BW, 441BS. A great model and still a good size at this scale. I decided from the start that I wanted this displayed in flight. This is it with the Corgi diecast 1/144 B-52: Thanks for looking, Phil
  15. 4 points
    Thanks tony, I did say I had taste. Nobody is sure what "normal service" is round here anymore. Well, the normal bit anyway! I agree about the Stag, in fact one of my mechanics specialises in them. As for the TR7, wash thy mouth out with some particularly vile tasting soap and hye thee to a nunnery I mean monastery! Sort of, I think? Its a cool kit anyway! Thanks Bill, try not to dribble on the Roc though! I do guitar porn as well. For me it has to be the rare Fender Lead II. That's Crisp sorted then. With his Navy pension he can probably afford to buy one each. Thanks on behalf of all of us Crisp! Were the late lamented 'Liz Sladen still with us, I would happily move the car and she could stare at my bedroom ceiling until Mrs Martian booted her out. She can be a bit unreasonable like that sometimes! (If she reads this bit, I am a dead Martian!) I shall make a point of descending upon you. We are having to give Scotland a miss this year due to Gill's heart scare. She should be fine but we need to be sure before venturing too far from home. We will be back next year. Well, Crisp is getting spoilt today, what with flying cars in EDSG/Sky and Triumphs with folded wings! You are a lucky lad Crisp. What are you? This little short of blasphemy. I feel a spell of "cultural readjustment" in our corrective facility on Phobos may help you to see things a little more clearly. Nice Tartan, not so sure about the baby poo brown carpet though. Sarah-Jane has had nice new blue carpets fitted. The Plastic dash was forced on Triumph by US elf and safety regulations which worried about wood splinters in the event of an accident. Like if you hit something fast enough to cause splinters to be flying everywhere, you wouldn't more serious problems on your plate! Martian, Defending TR7s across the Galaxy Oh yes! we were building a model weren't we? I got plenty of Mr Dissolved Gloop on the wings last night but sadly it was not quite cured enough before I had to go and do a full day's MVS duty. With a particularly manic patrol behind me, it is unlikely I will get any done tonight. In fact, I am struggling to stay awake to reply to all your posts.
  16. 4 points
    I decided to do a spot of preshading on the panel lines using oil pastels. Once I'd drawn over most of the lines, I brushed off any access powder and gave the kit another coat of Humbrol flesh/Humbrol ochre. I'm quite pleased with the overall effect, one more coat should do the trick.
  17. 4 points
    Model made on the basis of authentic notes, the application should not be overdone with vodka. Eduard 1:72 With this La-7, a rather interesting history. In April 1945, as Alexei Vasilievich told us, One evening they sat and drank with his technician. Alelyukhin Talked about life after the war and about what would be good To put a monument to La-7: paint it in red and raise it On the pedestal ... The next morning, the regiment was raised in combat alert and Alelyukhin, dressing on the run ran to his plane. What kind of Was his amazement when he saw that his whole car - from Nose to tail - has become a dazzling red color! As Alexey Vasilievich later recalled, he "in gratitude" Already reached for his gun, but time to deal with Then the technician was not.
  18. 4 points
    Airfix Supermarine Spitfire Type 389 PRXIX RM643/Z of No. 541 SquadronBenson, Autumn 1944 WIP thread with a lack of pictures
  19. 4 points
    Hi, here's where I am now, I've even enlarged the tail feathers! Just guessed as I don't have any plans so they are probably wrong! Bad news though, I must've slightly misaligned the intake pods as trying to get the wheel well doors to fit is a nightmare of large proportions! Not sure how to fix at moment, to be continued, maybe....
  20. 4 points
    Right that’s it I can be finally done with this Pig….well actually it’s a dog!!! I made a real effort to finally finish her, I had to or else I would have abandoned her in an almost complete state. She fought right to the end and even after I took the final photos I found some mistakes…my doing this time, but HB didn’t help by getting it wrong in the first place!! Today was a case of rushing around finishing all those last little bits, I’ve missed a few but I really don’t mind. Unless you’re a “rivet counter” you won’t notice them. Looking at some of my personnel photos and some on line she’s almost there, she would have been better if I hadn’t had last minute issues with my airbrush (my 0.2mm nozzle has split, $100 Oz for new needle and nozzle!!! ) and the decals form both sets just didn’t work in a few places. All that aside, she’s done, from certain angles she looks really good, from others……..well those photos won’t be posted. Thanks for everyone who followed and commented, plus put up with my rants, without it I would have sent her to the shelf of doom long ago. As usual I’ll try and have some different photos in the gallery and RFI. Thanks and enjoy. she's a big sucker!!!
  21. 3 points
    Sleep little Martian sleep And dream deep dreams of BL fluff Ignore any tendencies to dream Rover SD1 please...
  22. 3 points
    This update will be the basic cockpit tub construction. I am building enough of the pit to be able to install it it not he fuselage and close it up. The seats, Panels, and any other details that can be added at final assembly are left for later. One important note is to assemble the tub/wheel well assembly exactly as possible. The tolerances are very tight with respect to the tub and its fit with in the fuselage. If you don't pay attention as some builders found out with their F-4J build, the tub ends up to wide for the fuselage. IN those cases the builders trimmed the side panels to make the tub fit. IF the tub is assembled with all of the flash and the flare removed and the edges sanded lightly, then the tub fits perfectly. Check your fit, in fact ZM makes a special note in the instructions about this exact issue. The basic tub assembled with the seat rails installed The nose wheel well Some painted Cockpit pictures. I use a variety of paint types and brands in my builds. I am very partial to lacquers as primers and protectant coats. The trick for me is to thin it to keep the layers very thin, I used MIG's USN Cockpit paint set for the gray and the detail washes. I then spray the pit with clear lacquer to seal it and then infall the side panels and other parts. I find if I seal acrylics and enamels with the clear lacquer to protect the work, it makes the build go quicker and keeps me from making costly mistakes! The black panels are Acrylics, which allow me to then gently remove the paint from the details on the instrument panels. Next up is to close up the Fuselage.
  23. 3 points
    I think I have found a solution - Tix solder which is designed for jewelery seems to be about the lowest melt I can get. I shall order some, give it a whirl, and report back. In the meantime... with t'interwebby all in a kerfuffle over PhotoRansomBucketThief, I laid back and silently doffed a cap to Perdu who had previously pointed me to Postimage for hosting of the images, though how long before theyall follow suit, who knows. Buffers! That's what's important! Buffers! Them things on the end of trains which stop them crashing into each other. One on each corner there is. So I needed 4 This is another one of those jobs that I had been putting off for some time, though I'm not really sure why. It was (so far!) a lot easier than I imagined it would be. My original plan was to make one good one and use that as a master to cast more in resin. However, after I made the first one and realized just how easy it was, I decided to continue and use brass for all 4 buffers. I printed out a buffer at the right scale, taped that to some styrene and filed that to shape. Then, digging through my scrap bin I found an earlier abortive attempt at a bogie side frame from way, way back in time. The brass was about the thickness I was looking for, so I chopped out a section, used the styrene template and scribed around the perimeter of the buffer. I used a sweetheart file to get the rough shape before switching to a finer tooth to get the final shape. ***edited*** "sweetheart" is NOT the correct term for an illegitimate file begads! The brass was a bit battered which didn't really concern me - have you ever looked at the condition of those buffers ? Rinse and repeat several times.... Once I had the shapes all looking similar (or as best I could manage) I had to add some curvature to the buffers. This was accomplished by first bending the buffer around the handle of my razor saw. That was then flattened slightly in the vice before adding a final curve to each end of the buffer. Next stage was to cut out some small lengths of brass tube to act as a mounting point. These were ca'd into place, as close to the center as I could guesstimate (I really should have marked them out better) - that was followed by a generous helping of Milliput to fill out the form. As the real buffers are big humongous castings, the brass by itself didn't look convincing - the milliput helped add some beef to the shape. It looks kind of nasty here, but should shape down nicely later. (My trial version is on the far right) After some gentle sanding and filing, and getting the first one looking really good, I found that all the handling made the milliput pop off the brass buffer at the slightest opportunity. Ouch ! So, superglue was called into action once again, this time to glue the milliput back into place on the buffer. Once glued in place, another sanding brought the buffer back to the land of bufferdom. Small slices of brass tube were called into play to look like collars and slid over some brass rod which was in turn, inserted into the buffer. Center shot - rear view of a buffer - dry fitted at the moment. I know these are not 100% accurate but it appears that there are more flavors of buffers out there than you can shake a stick at. The main profile is good though - the oval with a flat top - as long as that's good I am fine. Once the buffers are in place, it will be very hard to see behind them, but I think this is realistic enough. ... and more dry fitting - mainly to give myself a lift and some encouragement to keep going with this. Even though these would have been relatively easy to cast, I think brass is the way to go here as I am not sure that resin buffers would have held up over time. I doubt I'll get any more done before going on vacation, so... until next time....
  24. 3 points
    Thanks Chris and Giorgio Thanks Keith - get your coat! Thanks TT and John - he does have a face, of sorts, but he may be concentrating (if not crying) into the pillow bomb sight. Perhaps he's targeting the PB people? Here with the master: and, although still a bit soft (uh oh!) a close up after some gentle clean up: I'm hoping that it'll harden up (fnaar!) overnight. Oh wait, didn't I say that yesterday? It maybe that some idiot didn't mix the Milliput properly. Rats. In any event, some other candidates have been chosen for the rest of the crew: Note the legless figures that Benedikt helpfully suggested would be good for turrets. Great idea!
  25. 3 points
    RF-111C A8-134 - 6 Sqn. RAAF Base Amberley 1988 Hobby Boss 1/48th F-111C Paint: Mr Hobby and Tamiya acrylics, Model Master Metalizer Lacquers Extras; Eduard BigSin F-111C set Eduard – F-111A Interior set Novascale – F-111C RAAF 1 & 6 Squadron decals OzMods – F-111 Afterburner Cans Ozmods – F-111C Wheels & Tires Ozmods – F-111C Long Range Fuel tanks Plus custom made and cast Recon Pallet. Link to build
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