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Showing content with the highest reputation on 13/06/17 in all areas

  1. 26 points
    Hello, I would like to present my latest completion; S&M model's 1/72nd Bristol type 171 Sycamore Mk52. Very nice kit, went together quite well and required very little filler, The clear parts were surprisingly straight forward too although I did experience a slight mishap by dropping and splitting this section from the rest of the fuselage. Luckily it was in the early stages of the build so there wasn't much damage! I've made an error with the white sections on the aircraft. The section below the main rotor should not come down as far as the hoist. The rear oleo struts are not quite right which resulted in the aircraft not 'sitting' correctly. I had to extend the front oleo to give the distinctive low tail look the sycamore has. Unfortunatly this has resulted in the poor pilots having to jump to reach the step!! Not sure if the error was my doing or the kit parts are the wrong length? Something to bare in mind if anyone is building or planning to build the kit. Pretty much out of box although I've added some minor additions which are a mix of spare PE & scratch built brass / plastic rod. [/url Thanks for looking Aaron
  2. 15 points
    Hello Here is my last build : 45th Tactical Reconnaissance Squadron Mc Donnell RF-101C Tan Son Nhut, Nam around 1970. This is a 1/72 kit from Valom. soon to be published in the French magazine "Avion de Combat" and to be seen at Modelbrno on Saturday. Patrick
  3. 11 points
    thanks chaps & good evening so I had a blip with the canopy when I tried pulling a copy having spent all morning getting a nice glassy finish on the canopy plug, on the first pull, the sheet was not quite hot / flexible enough so I lifted it off and most of the primer surface came with it... insert lots of anglo saxon language.. the root cause goes right back to the beginning as I had made a master and built up the plinth for it to sit on from balsa, and set this in the box to pour RTV over to create the female mould - it was at this point the balsa being light and full of air made the plug turn turtle in it's box so the balsa was at the top and the canopy below. At the time I thought thats ok, I can just hold it under the surface of the rubber and still get a good mould.. problem was that because now the surface of the canopy was at the bottom, al, the little bubbles had nowhere to go so I ended up with a very pock marked master.. again, I thought thats ok, I can just fill all the holes and go from there.. FAIL, even now as I look at the finished plug, the heat must have softened the paint as these have become visible as depressions again after trying to pull that first copy.. the upshot is, I am going to get this master ready AGAIN (6th time...), and then cast a new one without all the inherent flaws and polish that up to a shine, with no primer.. I couldn't face going back to the canopy plug straight away after messing it up so I wanted a little 'get back into the groove' project that I knew wouldn't frustrate & stress me out like vacforming does, so settled on the cockpit door.. ..again I scaled the drawings, and started with the outer skin... ..after adding the rivet detail, I folded up some litho into the structure sections - imparting curves into folded beams is really tough, so settled on plastic ribs as the interior face is painted anyway.. ..the canopy slide rail forms the top part of the door structure.. ..the remainder of the structure was added including the slotted hinge area at the bottom... ..started to assemble the tiny parts for the release mechanism from tube & folded ali - the handle I had already designed as part of the PE set I did right at the beginning ..and with the mechanism added before painting - the two big rivets are just holding it all in place as I wanted to paint it and then add the bits to keep the natural metal finishes.. ..and with a pin to illustrate scale.. ..painted & assembled and with tiny springs added to the latches.. ..when fitted, it will look something like this... ..so, that was a nice little diversion - now back to that damned canopy TTFN Peter
  4. 9 points
    Tristar made a beautiful kit, that was lots of fun of building it. I added the Friulmodel metal tracks, base - Fields of glory base no.4, figures can't remember. Interior - barely seen after finish.
  5. 8 points
    Hi guys. I am super pleased to bring you the RFI of my Academy P-38 she has taken a month or so to put together between life and work. I decided to build this as the P-38 is one of my all time favorite looking aeroplanes, the twin booms and saucy nose art of these brash beauties was always something very "American" and such a departure from other schemes and markings. The WIP can be found It's been a really fun build with loads of extras thrown in for good measure. I'll list after the pics. I wanted to test out my Photo tent that I picked up a while ago, I was intrigued as I usually cobble something together from paper or go outside for my RFI shots. I have taken such a lot of pics and I can't choose which ones to add so I'm going to share them all. hope you're ready there's a metric flip tonne of em. Phew! I'll post a sign off in a sec. just want to get these up first.
  6. 8 points
    Hello modellers! Today let me show you my new F-104G Starfighter in 1/72. It depicts a German Airforce Starfighter from Fighterbomber Wing 31 “Boelcke” in Nörvenich from the late seventies. Despite the fact that the Italeri Starfighter is less detailed that the Revell or Hasegawa models, I like the kit as there is no option for a two-seater, making assembly of the fuselage a lot easier. As it is the second G-model I built from this brand, I knew very well what to improve. I scratchbuilt a new ejection seat as the Martin Baker seat from the kit was too small and nearly disappeared in the cockpit. The undercarriage was detailed with silver rod and stretched sprue and the characteristic bulges in the main landing gear doors sculpted with styrene sheet. Slats and flaps were cut and glued in extended position. Navigation, taxi and landing lights were added as well as collision warning light from sculpted rhinestone. The small stall warning probes were scratchbuilt from rod and aluminium tape and a new pitot tube was made from brass tube and silver rod.. The paint scheme was easy to apply as there are Revell enamels that matched the colors without the need of mixing. Gloss coat was Gauzy and matted with Tamiya acrylic paint. The decals from the box were very nice and worked perfectly. Found two very helpful sources in the web for a proper Starfighter build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKv9lsdln7E http://www.rolfferch.de/F104G/ Hope you like it Mario
  7. 7 points
    Hiya Folks, Here is my rendition of the new Special Hobby 1/72nd Barracuda Mk.II which is an excellent little kit and much better than the original kit by this manufacturer. The cockpit detail is much improved and the detail everywhere is also better but I thought that the propeller blades were a little too short and so replaced them with a set left over from an old Frog Barracuda kit. I would have liked the canopy to be separate to show off the excellent interior but that is not the case,....however I did remove the pilots canopy and added two triangular windows from clear plastic were added to the rear of the windscreen. The kit decal options are good, but for my first one I chose to replicate an aircraft from 847 NAS which appears on pg 325 of the 1st edition of Air Britains Sqns of the FAA by Ray Sturtivant,.... decals by Xtradecal. As usual the model was brush painted and I cannot wait to make another one,....... well done Special Hobby on revisiting an old favourite, Cheers Tony
  8. 7 points
    Thanks to everyone for the interest in this lovely aeroplane. It seems I'm two pages in and not even a whiff of glue or cut plastic. Best remedy that! Aerosmith were great by the way. Any way let's get on with the show before @Martian Hale explodes. The first few steps would have me build the wings. aaaand the rigging. According to my book well my two books this rigging doesn't look that accurate anyway and there is no tail rigging so I've deciddd to do the rigging at a later date with EZ Line. so first off a question, I've been thinking about this for a while and I know the wing ribs have been described as planks of wood but to be fair I don't think they look THAT bad. Here you can see the planky ness but instead of sanding them clean off and starting again I'm thinking of sanding lightly and trying to achieve more of a taught cloth look. from these pics it looks achievable as it's not too far off. And here with the before sanded kit part. A subtle approach keeping as much as the kit as I can. sound like a plan? It sounds like plan to me. Thoughts? so while mulling that over I'll move onto these bits looks more like it! aaaargh pin mark time. why Airfix why? There are 22 on just those 3 bits, not to mention the part numbers on the side bits. Once again I'm taking my own advice and keeping more of the kit, so instead of sanding the planks clean on the floor part I added blobs of milliput and dabbed flat with water. I'll chisel them out when dry. Now I don't have one of those electronic rubber things but I bought a milk frother from Ikea about a year ago for this very reason. So I cut the end off and popped on a small pip of milliput. I'll leave that to harden then I can glue on sand paper to tackle the raised marks on the inside walls. Next up is the pit parts. It should look like... and Airfix gives us. a bit of clean up then. Heres the rear section. that pad looks comfy. I filled the dipped pin marks with MP then smoothed and left to dry. The steering wheel got cleaned up but I don't really like it. I know you won't really see much of it but I hate the way it's moulded on like that. So I cut it off, cut out the middle section of an old steering wheel I had in the spares box, cut the central cross section and glued everything together. its not 100% but it's better to my eyes. I need to leave those bits to dry now and I really need have to have an early night as I'm pooped after my busy weekend. Thank you all once again for taking an interest in this. Let's see if we can't make it a bit of a doosie eh. Take care and as always, "Happy Modelling". Johnny wooden hills.
  9. 6 points
    Dear all, Just completed this evening, Wingnut's 'Le Rhone' engine version of the Camel. I did experience a few hiccups during the build, but got there in the end. Built out of box, brush painted and rigged with combination of 2lb fishing line and Prim elastic thread. Presented in the markings for Canadian ace Donald McClaren. I learnt a few lessons during this build which will stand me in good stead for when I get around to the the 2F1 'Ships Camel' version in my stash. Not perfect by any means but I am pleased how it turned out. Regards Dave
  10. 5 points
  11. 5 points
    Hello all, 2017 marks the 80th anniversary of Prague's international airport (PRG). This weekend, they hosted an open doors event that featured a small area with some aircraft to look at and poke around in as well as a limited number of guided excursions around the airport. Unfortunately all the excursion slots got filled before I was able to get onto one. The aircraft on display included Czech historic types such as the Aero Ae-45 and Ae-145 along with a Let L-200 Morava. Also in attendance was the world's only flying Lisunov Li-2 from Hungary. I managed a few presentable shots of the Aero Ae-145, the only airworthy example of the type remaining in Czech skies, and the Li-2:
  12. 5 points
    Gent's thanks again for the encouragement and entertainment with this build Not to sure about all this cricket stuff I was just going to be building the ship I have been very busy at work this week and the weekend what with the new model change over so not much time at the bench I did manage to get some painting done on the sub assembly's and hope to get them fitted this week
  13. 4 points
    I've had a soft spot for this little beastie since back when I first had the Putnam book of Naval aircraft. I know there is a resin kit in 1/72 out there, but I like scratch-building, and had been thinking to do a Flycatcher for a long time. What ticked it over was the MMP number on the type, with photographs of Flycatchers on the China Station in the late twenties. I have already done the two motors, at least mostly: exhausts I think it best to do later, and one will have the spinner, and so not need frontal crankcase detail, but I have not decided which. Here is how the motors stand now... (a U.S. penny is about 18mm in diameter) These were done as a stand-alone project, with another motor, and how they came to this point can be found in this thread: Work has now been begun in earnest on the fuselages. While straightforward in general, the Flycatcher fuselage is not simply shaped. It is almost as if the designer had been instructed to see to it as little as possible was square to the line of flight, and to choose, whenever faced with the choice, the oddest of internal proportions available. It took some thought to figure out how to start. The bottom of the rear fuselage is where I began. It is a piece of 1.5mm sheet, cut to the guide of a template trimmed from a copy of my Grainger drawing. It is sanded to some curve in section, and tapered down for and aft in profile. Next a stern-post of 1mm square rod was attached at the very end, and sides of 0.5mm sheet attached. These were a bit high, and over-long... They were trimmed down to proper height, and cut off on the line where the fabric covering meets the metal panels at the cockpit. Some spacers were put in for safe handling. The cockpit floor (and attachment point for the lower wings) was added. It is of 1mm sheet, and cut a bit over-size. Rear portion of the cockpit sides were then added, made of 0.5mm sheet. The nearest fuselage shows these, and the floor, all trimmed down to size, the furthest shows them in their raw state. At this point, the rear turtle-deck application was begun. First a sheet of 0.5mm sheet was put over the top. Then the front former (and backing of the seat) was attached; it is a piece of 1mm sheet, square to the bottom piece. I added a bit of color for the inside of the fabric, which might be seen looking straight down into the cockpit, and black tube (0.6mm rod) where appropriate. I got a bit ahead of the photographing here. A triangular 'spine' of 2mm sheet was put in down the center from the cockpit rear to the stern-post, The turtle-back of the Flycatcher is unusually deep, working out to 7mm at its highest point in scale. My usual method is to just put in a solid piece of plastic and sand to shape, but this is too much for any single thickness, or even horizontal laminate. I thought to use long, triangular 'planks' of 2mm sheet (two on either side of the spine), but when I got the first ones on, the gap between them and the spine was so narrow I just started filling it in with shims and trimming them down. At the point of this photograph, the turtle-back is only roughly shaped. I went a little more regularly on the second. I stood planks of 3mm sheet alongside the spine, then put pieces of 2mm sheet alongside these.... Here are both fuselages with the turtle-backs shaped and smoothed. One of these will be a machine off HMS Hermes on China Station, on floats, circa 1926, one will be a machine off HMS Courageous in the Mediterranean, on wheels, circa 1929 Next step will be further extension of the cockpit sides, and interior work....
  14. 4 points
    Got this one finished and in the photo booth. It really is a great kit with no major problems, may possibly add a mine detection device when it goes on a diorama eventually. Also might be worth saying that the doors and the rear boot section are only tacked in with a bit of pva in case I have to open them later which is why you might spot a bit of a gap. Kit manufacturer: academy Scale: 1/35 Type: M1151 Humvee Extras used: DEF models resin sagged wheels Paints and colours used: MRP 080 and various tamiya. Weathered with mig pigments and ak washes
  15. 4 points
    Hi folk's,last in the trio of Hobbyboss easykit's for the From Russia with love GB,for it's type a great easy build much more refined than some in the range lovely panel lines and a canopy worthy of mention.In one of the schemes of Ivan.F.Pavlov hero of the Soviet union,I have not added the wire due to poor light and several pint's of Guiness last night and apologies for photo quality still using my phone.Thank's for looking in.
  16. 4 points
    Greetings This is a classic kit and one of the best representations of this aircraft . I was stationed at MacConnell AFB,Kansas in the 70's and got to watch them fill the sky. This aircraft has Kansas markings from that period and is a F-105F backdated from the kit F-105G. Aftermarket was Resin Seats, Metal Main Gear,MV Lenses for Landing lights, and Master Pitot. Paints were "what we have on hand"..Gunze Dark Green, Testors Acrylic Light green, Vallejo Brown and Humbrol Light Grey, over-coated by Testor Rattle Can Dullcoat (decanted). Had to go outside for the Photos because the model is quite Large . Reason for two different backrounds. Used Uschi Powders on Speed Brakes exhaust petals Really great kit of this Very Large "Fighter" Aircraft. Cheers Thanks for Looking Bill
  17. 4 points
    Hi all - well it's taken a few years but she's finally done. Decals from Pheon, lozenge from Aviattic, goggles from Pheon's German Pilots Accessories etch set. Turnbuckles form Gaspatch, and Helmets by me! A surprisingly large model but Im pretty pleased with the result- and another model has escaped the "shelf von doom" !! cheers Jonners
  18. 4 points
    I've started the weathering process. The tank isn't clean and shiny any more. First chipping. I miss the molding seam on the commander copula, but just spot it now on the photo. Unlucky.
  19. 3 points
    Hi There! I would like to post up this build, done by my Wife Lisa,this is Her third Tamiya 'Big Bike', and the first one on which She has done all the work Herself (incuding Airbrushing), with just a little sideline 'chirping in' from Me, Paint used were Tamiya acrylics and de-canted Halfords cans for the coulour and lacquer:- ...and Her two other buils, a Honda Monkey Bike and a Harley Lowboy:- ......She's now got Her eye on My Pocher Alfa Spider......... Thanks for looking in! Cheers, Pete and Lisa P.S. Pete was very patient and sometimes a little frustrated but a brilliant tutor!! Lisa x
  20. 3 points
    Cinemachines Derelict ship,about 16cm long,came in just a metallic finish in one piece with a display stand,This is a design that,to my knowledge,has never been produced by a licensed kit company and was therefore a gap in my Aliens collection,The base is a scratch built affair and the ship was repainted and various inks and washes added. A bit of photoshoppery In flight Crashed Cheers for looking Andy ,
  21. 3 points
    While it's not a direct swap (some fitting required), it appears that the wings (including the apparently better-detailed wheel wells) could be used to convert the Academy 1/72 Allison P-51 "North Africa" kit to an A-36. Also use the stabilizers and rudder, since the Academy parts have rather odd-looking rib detail. Small consolation, I suppose, but Brengun kits are relatively inexpensive, so if you don't like the fuselage, consider the kit to be an A-36 conversion package - I know I'll buy at least one for just that purpose. (When you've spent as many years as I have trying to fumble the existing meagre VVS offerings into some semblance of accuracy, you learn to drink gratefully from the half-full cup whenever it's set before you... ) John
  22. 3 points
    Hawker Siddeley HS125 Dominie 55(R) Squadron at the RAF College Cranwell Scratchbuild 1/48 Hope this is allowed - the build is in aircraft WIP, started on 10th Feb and finished this weekend
  23. 3 points
    SEPECAT JAGUAR GR1 54 Squadron, Coltishall. Airfix 1/72nd
  24. 3 points
    Trumpeter T-55 bulldozer tank, 1/72.
  25. 3 points
    Next step. Miliput Superfine White and sanding Same methode for the sliding canopy Adding rubber.
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