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Showing content with the highest reputation on 21/05/17 in all areas

  1. 25 points
    Douglas DC-4 - 1:144 Minicraft Aer Turas decals - classic-airlines.com This is the lovely Minicraft DC-4 kit, with decals from classic-airlines,com. The decals are laser printed on constant film, so need individually cutting out.They do some wonderful schems from the 60's and 70's, I just can't resist buying them! I'm deveoping a real liking for Irish aviation, as well as the smaller independant airlines of the 60's, so this one scores on both counts. Having seen Ian Turbofans beautiful British Eagle Brittannia, which he photographed using a hairdryer to spin the props, I thought I'd do a couple of photos like that myself! 'With something else' - its' close relative the ATL Carvair, in real life actually converted from a DC-4. Also has classic-airlines.com decals. Thanks for looking John
  2. 10 points
    Aires interior added and aftermarket decals. Painted with craft paints. Mark
  3. 10 points
    Hi, here are a few pics of one of my last builds, a Lagg-3 built essentially from the box from ICM. The only change was lengthening the fuselage by 3mm just after the main radiator exhaust. The paints are Gunze, red stars are airbrushed with masks. Weathering was done with Mig ammo washes, various pigments and ink pens. Hope you will like it, Christian.
  4. 9 points
    Hi, everyone! I present you my next model - French heavy fighter prototype of WWII. It's full resin kit with vacuumformed canopy.
  5. 8 points
    Hi all. The old Tamiya updated with some goodies, not bad for a 35 years old kit!
  6. 7 points
    Something post-WW2...The Revell Stearman Kaydet in 1/72nd scale, used in Israel in the late 40s and 50s as a training aircraft. The build is OOB, with only the rigging in .004 line (drilldrilldrill) and Vallejo colors. the decals are aftermarket from a wonderful set made by Xtradecal. Among the options are a Nationalist Chinese and Peruvian craft (that's next) as well as several US birds. I feel that when I find a kit that builds OOB easily and without fuss, I stick to the manufacturer's designs. This is a good example. An easy kit, some descent painting and lovely, thin perfectly registered decals make the model a bit more special. Hope you like it! --JDCM
  7. 6 points
    To my surprise @silver911 asked me to machine two parts for his Pocher build. The surprise was twofold: 1) I haven't been using the lathe / mill for that long; and 2) Silver's work is astonishing. See here his topic. But as he doesn't have these machines at his disposal he couldn't make these parts convincingly himself. In the end I accepted the challenge.1. I received the parts two days ago.2. This is what the lower part on the previous photo should look like. 3. Ron asked me to use the dimensions of the kit parts as a basis. Improving them would not be too difficult, but getting them perfect... another thing. The plan was to make each nut in three parts: the lower ring, the 'toothing' and then the crown holding 16 grooves. I started on the middle part, because I reckoned that was the hardest. It sure was... If there are any questions on this drawing or anything else in this short topic, let me know and I'll gladly elaborate. 4. First I turned an axle to be able to easily check whether the part will fit. Here the Pocher part is mounted. 5. After preparations the first milling action is made. 6. Each of twelve teeth now has one side: 7. Next the other sides and a lot of correctional work because the drawing wasn't completely accurate (or the mill, or...). Eventually I would make another one because it didn't like this part. Then I thought I liked the new part, until I made another one which was better. So then I didn't like the second part anymore and I machined a fourth. The third and fourth cost me considerably less time because the milling machine was finally set up right after the second specimen. The part slightly slopes at the face. This is modeled by using an indexable cutting tool. 8. Drilling a hole.9. And then, slowly, increasing the bore, just large enough to fit the axle shown under 4. 10. Cutting off the part (photo taken while making specimen #1)... checking and measuring until the desired width (2,42mm.) is attained. 11. The result of this part after sanding. Still a bit dirty. If you look closely you can see what I didn't like: the teeth do not (recessedly) join perfectly. 12. So yesterday I tried again. A lot of testing and adjusting... finally I thought I had figured it out. See here specimens #1 (left) and #2 (right). Neither specimen will eventually be used in Ron's build. After these I machined two new ones that I liked much better. 13. After finalizing the 'tooth parts'... plus two ring parts, plus two 'larger ring' parts just in case those are needed. As said, it was sometimes difficult to establish what the real part would look like dimension-wise, trying to replicate that as well as I could but still holding on to Ron's wish to use the basic kit dimensions (the most important of which: the inner diameter). That's why I added a larger ring and an even larger ring. If the two small rings (which resemble the real deal best) for some reason do not look right, there are these larger rings. Hopefully they won't have to be used. 14. What a shame... making the 'crown parts' and not thinking for one second... the milling machine is merciless. It's not difficult to see the mistake: (by the way, to the left is the Pocher part) So the crown part will have to be done anew. 15. Turning: you can see that the chuck does not touch the cutting tool... but only just. 16. This is the work drawing for the crown part. 17. How to make one of sixteen grooves: 20. Final check to see whether the new parts would fit the Pocher axle.21. The last part is a center axle for one nut. Done! I hope Ron will like these parts and I can't wait to see them in place.
  8. 6 points
    An old friend asked me to help him finish the Fokker Dr 1 1:8 Scale model that's marketed by Hachette Publications. He had a passion for starting models which frequently got to a certain stage when he was overtaken by a new project. I was intrigued by the big model and its skeletal format and took it over for him. It soon became evident that the kit's attention to detail was rudimentary, a real issue on such a big scale for anyone who has a hankering to get as much of the detail right as possible. Being so afflicted, after taking delivery of all the bits plus the finished elements he'd already made (Wings/part fuselage/tailplane/rudder/engine), I spent many months and no small investment on bits to bring it to the finished item. It's not museum standard even so but looks quite convincing. Loads of fiddley bits and accompanying graphic epithets. I decided that to change the OOB structure to something fairly authentic, it had to be an earlier Dr 1 than the Red Baron's a/c that Hachette had used to market the kit, so hunted for something appropriate and found 147/17 (W Nr 1859) which was delivered to Richthofen's Jasta 11 in Nov 1917 after the Triplane series was temporarily withdrawn from service due to fatal structural problems with the wings. It was then reputedly flown by Lt Werner Steinhäuser whose markings (cribbed from our NZ friends) I used as the basis for the a/c's bright paintwork on the covered parts of the structure. He had 4 victories to his credit before being wounded in combat on 17 March 1918 while flying Fokker Dr 1 147/17. There were 6 more aircraft added to his total before he lost his life on 26 June 1918 in a later model Dr 1 (564/17) due to the accurate shooting from a SPAD 2-seater. Steinhäuser’s first triplane was flown after his injury by a Jasta 10 pilot, Leutnant Ludwig Keseling, who had the misfortune to be shot down by AA fire while strafing observation balloons on 22 March 1918. He managed to force-land his damaged aircraft in Allied territory, becoming a POW. His aircraft was subsequently pictured being recovered by British soldiers. It was eventually given the British captured aircraft identification code G.158 but its fate remains unclear. My friend was well pleased with the result and insisted I should keep the model since I'd invested so much effort into the finished article. At 85 years old, he sadly died. Since the model was really too large for me to display, I gave it to his son who lives down in Paignton but the photo collection of the finished model reminds me of my chum. Finally got to grips with downloading pictures to the site so apologies to anyone who may not find this their kindathing.
  9. 5 points
    For your perusal...HR Models Hanriot HD-2 floatplane. This was a nice little kit but needed a certain amount of TLC and skill to build. The instructions were rudimentary but sufficient and I ended up using plenty of on-line sources for the rigging, alternative views and weathering. I love making early floatplanes and aside from this kit (and others from HR), the Roden Albatros W-4s, and a couple of other more obscure kits, there aren't a lot out there in this scale. The rigging is a mix of .004 fishing line ( which means a lot of drilling!) and some stretched sprue for the little bits. Paints are all Vallejo and the decals are OOB, as is the build. --JDCM
  10. 5 points
    After a fairly quick build I finished these two today. The kits are typical short run injection moulded kits, a bit rough round the edges, rather chunky and lacking in detail but the decals are good and canopies clear so with a bit of work they can produce god results. The cockpits have enough detail for 1/72 especially if you do not want to open the canopies, the only item I added were some Tamiya tape seatbelts. On the exterior I added the wingtip lights, pitot tubes, brake cables and engine detail (just to the part visible through the opening in the fuselage. Decals are from the box for the Canadian Armed Forces version representing a machine from the Primary Flight School at CFB Borden, Ontario, in the mid 1960's. For the RAF version I used decals from S&M Models RAF trainer sheet to finish it as s machine from Cambridge University Squadron 1n 1959.
  11. 5 points
    Not an update as such, as I've not done any more paint/weathering since the last post, but I have started to put it together. Actually, it's pretty much all together apart from the upper hull Andy
  12. 4 points
    Hi Folks. Here is my interpretation of a 1/72 TF-86 Sabre Trainer, build here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235003834-172-tf-86f-sabre-trainer/ This build consisted of the Falcon Vacuform Conversion that uses the Heller Sabre as the donor but I also used the Hobbycraft kit for mainly the wings which had to be converted back. Painted using Humbrol Metalcote. Kit decals were used but serials had to be DIY as none exist in this scale. Came out better than I thought after a few setbacks and their is always room for improvement. Hope you like. Stuart
  13. 4 points
    May I present... Col. Robin Olds P-38J Lightning, SCATII On my Honeymoon last year I took with me 'Fighter Pilot', which was an incredible read, easily one of the best biographies I have read and decided that I would pay tribute to Col. Olds with either a P-51 or P-38, as I had already built an F-4 Phantom earlier that year. I decided it had to be the P-38 after a memorable passage in his book where he talks about downing an ME-109 in a glide, due to dropping the external tanks but forgetting to switch to the internals! With the aircraft chosen, that meant scouring for a decent kit and decals. After doing some research I settled on the Academy kit, but unfortunately in 1/72, was nowhere to be found and I thought that the project would probably not start. However at the tailend of last year I noticed a kit made by MPM on Hannants and took a gamble after the description said it was an Academy moulding. I found decals by Kits-World for SCAT II and when the postman delivered the goodies I nervously opened the MPM box... fortunately all was well and some crisp moulded plastic fell out with 'Academy' on the sprue! For those interested, the WIP thread is here: It's been a labour of love completing one of my favourite aircraft of WW2. My last attempt at a P-38 was well over 20 years ago, where I built an Airfix Lightning. Hope you enjoy!
  14. 4 points
    Hi lads. My last model. Kit upgraded with Eduard Photo etched, metal barrel and Friul tracks. Hope you like it, Cheers.
  15. 4 points
    Fokker D.VII (Early) 1:32 Wingnut Wings Introduction The Fokker D.VII first appeared over the western front in May 1918, as the Great War was entering its final phase leading up to the November Armistice. At first issued in small numbers to elite pilots, it proved to be a very capable fighter and began to build a formidable reputation. Production contracts were awarded to Fokkers' main rival, Albatros, such was the need to get production ramped as quickly as possible. In fact Albatros produced more D.VII's than Fokker themselves, and of better quality. The early machines revealed a tendency to engine overheating, so various attempts were made to increase the airflow around the engine bay, mainly by cutting vents and louvers in the cowling panels. The number and location of these vents can often be of assistance in identifying the age and manufacturer of particular D.VII's in old photographs. Much has been written about it, but it was an outstanding fighter often awarded the accolade of being the finest such machine produced by any side in the conflict. The Kit It was something of a surprise to see this kit announced on Wingnut Wings website a few months ago, but it is certainly very welcome. All their previously released versions of the D.VII sold out long ago, and have been fetching silly money on auction sites. As usual we start with the wonderful Steve Anderson artwork adorning the box lid, depicting a pair of Jasta 15 D.VII's in a clear blue sky. Opening the box reveals that it is packed from top to bottom with a host of individually shrink wrapped sprues, leaving no room far anything to rattle around. It is a good idea with any Wingnut Wings kit to carefully unpack it in sequence, putting each item in the upturned lid as you go. Then reverse the process to get it all back in, otherwise you might find you can't get the lid back on properly. There is that much packed into every kit! Wingnut wings have previously released four other boxings of the D.VII in Fokker, Albatros, OAW, and Fokker D.VII(F) forms. They naturally share a lot of common parts, with the individual variations being taken care of by other sprue(s) unique to the particular version. Construction starts with the cockpit, and here sprue A holds most of the parts. Pay attention to the instructions to make sure you select the correct ammunition tank and machine gun mounts. They vary in height according to early, mid, and late production. The etched fret provides seatbelts, which look very good once painted up and applied to the seat. Having made several of these kits already, I have a number of previous 'build' photographs that are useful here. The cockpit framework builds up very precisely, so you must ensure that you scrape any paint away from mating surfaces, and that you fit items like the firewall and ammo tank correctly. Any incorrect fitting will result in the finished unit 'bulging' and being too wide, which will then interfere with the fuselage sides closing around it. Several items have pins that fit into sockets on sideframes B10 & B11. It is a good idea to ream these out with a micro drill after painting. As usual, Wingnut Wings provide superb instructions, showing detailed colour photos of the interior of the Memorial Flight Associations meticulous replica. These are accompanied by coloured CAD drawings showing how it all fits together, with paint references. The engine bay is made up of several beautiful mouldings that replicate the welded steel tubing of the real thing. Take care with parts B14 & B15 when you remove them from the sprue. On my first build I inadvertently cut them at the front where the engine mounting plates end. But these 'spigots' that stick out are later used as radiator mounts. My fault, the instructions show them clearly but I wasn't paying attention! I absolutely love Wingnut Wings engines, they make super little models in their own right, especially if you go the extra step and wire up the magnetos to the plugs. Fine copper wire is ideal for this, and I often use a little bit of artistic licence and paint them in a light colour. After all, If I have installed all the ignition leads, I want them to be visible. Alternate air pumps, intake manifolds, and decals are provided for whichever of the five colour schemes you select. The Mercedes D.IIIa engine powered many different German aircraft, and thus features in several Wingnut Wings kits. This one was built for the initial release of Wingnuts Fokker D.VII. The fuselage halves are closed around the completed interior, but only the top seam is glued. Once dry, the bottom can be glued, and a strip of 'stitching' fitted in to a channel running along the underside. This works well, and is the only way the stitching can be replicated without having a join line right down its middle, which would then be lost as you sanded down the seam. The two LMG 08/15 Spandaus are provided with etched brass jackets, but if you are not confident optional full plastic ones are supplied as an alternative. Two styles of windscreen are on sprue C, which is typical of Wingnut Wings attention to detail. They are tiny and very similar, but you get both. Not all manufacturers would do this. Sprue I holds all the engine cowling panels, and it is this whole sprue that is completely different in the OAW and Albatros releases of the kit. Even within each kit there are multiple options for all the cowlings, such was the variation among early, mid, and late production from even the same manufacturer. As an early machine, the ones applicable to this kit are the plain ones, or those with only a few louvers - some of which have to be cut off anyway. The instructions make it all perfectly clear. The area is finished off by fixing one of two different styles of exhaust to the engine. Sprue D is provided in duplicate, with all those items that you require two of. Three different wheel hubs are present, but only one style is applicable to the Fokker built machines. The wings are simple to build and feature lovely rib detail. They can in fact be built, primed, painted, and decalled while the main construction of the cockpit/fuselage is going on. Final assembly involves beautifully moulded three-way cabane struts, parts B8 and B12. Use a drill to clear out their lower end mounting sockets at the top of the undercarriage legs. The tolerances are tight, so make sure nothing is clogged with paint. All the struts will fit precisely, and the bonus is that hardly any rigging is required. Markings and decals. Five different schemes are offered, with option C having a variation on the colour of the nose area, either red or yellow. A. Fokker D.VII, 262/18, Emil Thuy, Jasta 28w, mid-1918 (35 victories) B. Fokker D.VII, Rudolf Berthold, Jasta 15/JG2, mid-1918 (44 victories) C1.Fokker D.VII, Max Kliefoth, Jasta 19, October 1918 (3 victories) C2.Fokker D.VII, Hugo Schäfer, Jasta 19, October 1918. As above but with red nose area. D. Fokker D.VII, Reinhold von Benz, Jasta 78b, August 1918 (1 victory) E. Fokker D.VII, Bruno Loerzer, Jasta 26/JGIII, November 1918 (44 victories) Four A4/Letter sized decal sheets are supplied, with the first sheet containing all the individual markings for options A to E. As always they are close to perfection, with perfect colours, register, minimal carrier film and superfine detail. Some of the tiny data plates, shown at least double real life size, are completely readable. Produced by Cartograf, need I say more? Two sheets of lozenge decal accompany the main sheet, one of four colour lozenge and another of five colour. The five colour is especially interesting as it provides two types of underside lozenge. The 'normal' and an overpainted set, replicating where pale blue paint has been washed over the lozenge fabric. I have never seen this on a decal sheet, but it looks great. The lozenges are just visible underneath, and having it provided like this takes all the risk out of having to do it yourself. Options A an B both use it, the others use the normal four colour decal. An interesting variation is that Option A actually uses five colour underside lozenge on both wing upper surfaces, with normal upper five colour on the ailerons. Certainly a very interesting and attractive scheme. The decals themselves are in 'cookie cutter' format, designed and shaped to apply directly to the wing surfaces, complete with rib tapes. Be sure to paint the wings first, to give the decals something to 'bite' onto. Don't be tempted to think you can apply them directly to bare plastic. You can't, because they wont stick. The Fokker 'streaky' camouflage can be rather daunting to paint, but Wingnut Wings have made it simple by creating a full set of 'streak' decals for the fuselage. These are the same as provided in their original Fokker release, and found that they give an excellent result when applied over a pale green (or clear doped linen) painted fuselage. Again referring back to my earlier build; (flash photograpy does't 'arf make the colours look bright! It a lot more subtle in real life). Conclusion. Wingnut Wings other D.VII's sold out rather quickly, so don't hang about with this one. Another benefit is that this boxing contains all the plastic parts and options that were in the original (now out of production) Fokker D.VII release. So if like me, you have the original kit but wanted to build more than one option from it, then you now have everything to assemble an early, mid, or late production Fokker built D.VII contained within this box. But if you missed earlier Fokker built D.VII completely, now is your chance to fill that gap in your collection. Buy two and build an early version straight from the box, and use the other one with Wingnut Wings own decal sheet 30006 'Fighting Fokkers part 1', which gives options for some later Fokker D.VII's. Another absolute beauty from Wingnut Wings, very highly reccomended. Review sample courtesy of Previous builds; 32011 Fokker D.VII (Fok) 32027 Fokker D.VII (Alb) 32030 Fokker D.VII (OAW) with decal sheet 30009 Fokker D.VII (OAW) Fighting Fokkers part 4
  16. 4 points
    I started this one in 2014 before it took a seat on the shelf of doom. Decided it was time to finish it. Hasegawa kit, TwoBobs decals and home made seatbelts. Painted with Tamiya, Humbrol and Mr Hobby acrylic. Excuse the lighting in the following pics - daylight and my orange cooker hood light were duking it out Now for some gratuitous Dad stuff... My favourite part of the build - while I was tinkering, my 7yr old daughter was sitting on the other side of laptop drawing this for me. Pretty much spot on I'd say! I think there's another aviation nut developing Thanks for looking.
  17. 4 points
    OOB plus Dream PE. Bronco model very pleasant to build, Colors - Gunze mix based on pictures and instructions. Invite Inv
  18. 4 points
    I'm offering up my Eduard Lavochkin La-7 for inspection. It has been a tricky build all in all, my first Eduard kit, first experience of working with Mr.Hobby acrylics, and photo etch parts. I have discovered brush painting with Mr.Hobby paints can be difficult, and that using a primer is vital on these kits. That said, it's a fantastic kit that went together easily, I especially enjoyed working with the decals supplied in the kit, which were extremely thin. I am pleased with the end result I've achieved, and grown fond of the angry looking Russian aircraft.
  19. 4 points
    Evening all Calling this one done, Acadamy 1/72 P39Q in Portuguese marking from June 1942. Used Eduard PE for cockpit and flaps, LF model decals, Tamiya and Revell acrylics. The LF model decals are very nice for the price. Reposted with pictures after the Photobucket shut off. IMGA0896 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0897 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0898 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0899 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0900 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0902 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0905 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMGA0908 by neil Connor, on Flickr
  20. 4 points
    Hi, I got this kit cheap, but had to really force myself to finish it. The kit is fine, I just couldn't get excited and halfway through the build decided to rush through and finish it. It shows. Like many before, it'll go to one of my wife's pupils as a reward for being a good student.
  21. 4 points
    Hi. Just a small bit of progress today. I managed to fit the wings to the fuselage but unfortunately the fit was bad leaving a gap approx 0.5mm in the starboard wing joint... a little bit disappointing. So out with the plasticard and superglue/talc filler!!! While the wings set I sprayed the various bits and pieces. Thanks for looking, gazza l
  22. 4 points
    While my lamb and pork was cooking I got a bit more done. After grinding off the pips of rod on the handles I found one end of one had become loose so I backfilled the ground crater with some CA. When that was dry I gave it a sand and applied a smear of filler. I also added this blocky thing on the side: I have also drilled the aluminium tube out of the exhaust and did a test fitL I have also added some wiring to the bulkhead using lead wire: This was my main reference for this: I have no idea where the other end goes but I've left the wire long enough to disappear behind the IP. I have realised that the diagonal brace in the above photo is actually a (missing) strut for the winch so I have drilled a hole for it in the roof - hopefully in the right place. Bye for now, Nigel
  23. 4 points
    Last night I did make a start of the masking for the doors using my previously described method: That was finished off this morning. After having a spot of bother working out the orientation of the masks, on the second set I added some helpful arrows. Next I used my motor tool with a grinder bit to remove the slight pips of brass rod protruding on the inside of the doors: Next I decided to tackle some handles on the roof. Here is a very useful (and rare) overhead view of them: It also provides a good view of the wipers which I think I will fabricate from PE scrap at some point. I used some stiff tape to mark out the positions for the holes and drilled with a 0.5mm drill at a 45 degree angle: Here they are nearly finished. I'm just letting the glue dry before grinding off the internal pips like on the doors: The next job was to make some guides for the bottom of the doors. For the base plate I got some very thin shim stock (75 microns to be exact, about a third the thickness of normal PE) out of my Modelling Materials Storage Facility. The actual guide was snipped from some PE parts of above average thickness. Here is my set up for soldering: Some while later I had made and installed all four of the guides: Now I'm off to make a lamb tagine and cook some sticky pork ribs for my dinners. Bye for now, Nigel
  24. 4 points
    DH89 Dragon Rapide G-AKIF Classic Wings, Duxford 1/72 Heller When Procopius was over here for the BoB 75th we met 06/24 at Duxford and had a trip in the Rapide. I bought the Heller kit there and promised to build it as the one we flew in. I wish we'd flown in something easier to model! One of my longest WiPs ever here. Loaded with awful figures from a cheap railway set, with apologies to Brian (the pilot), Procopius and 06/24
  25. 4 points
    Tim's Airfix 1/72 Panavia MRCA.