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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/05/17 in all areas

  1. 19 points
    Finally managed to get something finished after a long period of ennui, during which unfinished project have been building up around my workbench. So , here it is , Supermarine Swift F4 ,WK198 , this is the jet that attempted to beat the world speed record. The model represents the aircraft just before the record attempt , as the wing fences were removed for the actual record flights.. The model is a conversion of the 1/48 Falcon Swift FR5 , finish is from a Halfords rattlecan , Ford Riviera blue. Andrew
  2. 17 points
    My take on Roden's Lockheed C141b Starlifter finished off using Caracal Decals. The only mod I made to the kit was to lower the windows of the rear emergency escape doors. Otherwise it's a cracking kit but I have to admit that the paintwork very nearly pushed me over the edge. Standard 4 x 4 walkaround : ...with an extra for good luck Okay, so my paintwork isn't entirely accurate but it's in 1/144 and it does have a cheatline ! Time to head off back to the work bench. Thanks for looking. mike
  3. 16 points
    Completed today and finished in a very test weary scheme. Will be on display at Cockpit Fest on the 17th June.
  4. 15 points
    Hello Modellers Here is my build of the re-released Airfix kit - built a few years ago, actually. The decals are from Hawkeye Decals, who specialise in Australian Civil subjects, among other things. The scheme is for East-West Airlines in the 1960’s – a quite attractive colour combination in my view. It’s a rather crude kit, by today’s standards, but the small additional sprues (in the latest release) are very welcome; since they provide the radome nose and 4-blade, square-tipped props. The main tasks I undertook to improve the kit were: Heavily sanded the plan-view profile of the nose (needs to be a lot “sharper” than what the raw parts provide; I got out the Dremel tool and went to town on it with a course sanding drum. Extended the rear undercarriage to give a slightly “nose down” stance. From my point-of-view, if the legs are not lengthened, the plane sits too low in the rear. Increased the angle of the tail spine by inserting extra plastic fillets; Scratch-built main u/c doors to better replicate the real appearance; Scratch-built a matching starboard air intake at the rear (carved from a piece of sprue). Added bulged fairings at the roots of the horizontal stabilisers (made from spares box drop tanks). Increase the width of the main wheels with plastic card – rather anaemic-looking if left as-is, in my view. I note it is now almost impossible to find the re-released kit anywhere – obviously it sold well! I want to build more, so I am keen to see Airfix get it back onto the market again. Hope you like.
  5. 13 points
    Hello everyone I'd like to present my latest model, first 1:32 Kit Hasegawa ST 29 PE Eduard cockpit+ seatbelts RB Montex mask painted with enamel MM a few photos of the finished model: P-40 E Maj. Edward F. Rector, China 1942. enjoy the photos.
  6. 12 points
    This is build number four of six late model Spitfires on the go in this thread. It's the 1/72 Airfix Spitfire 22 kit modified to produce a Mk 24 - starboard hatch was filled and rescribed, the prop blades were replaced with longest blades from the Special Hobby Griffon Spitfire/Seafire kit, and late model landing gear doors and rocket rails were pilfered from the same SH kit. I left the long barreled cannons as this airframe seemed to feature them throughout its career. VN318 served with 80 Sqn in Hong Kong, and then with the Royal Hong Kong Auxiliary Air Force (RHKAAF), finally retiring in 1955. Part of a growing group Southeast Asia Spitfires.
  7. 10 points
    Some days ago Sandbagger shows his Nieuport 11, something I can show here too. This one was flown by Turenne. This was my last finished model 2016. The base of this build was the Eduard weekend edition, but I added the offered PE set and used the precut mask set too. The engine is again a kit from Small Stuff, Gaspatch provided metal turnbuckles and the resin Lewis. The struts, air screw and skid assembly are self made from different kind of wood. The painting was done with Alclad and Gunze, some oils are used for weathering. I hope you will like it, Frank The view from below with real metal plate on the front: Some details, here engine, brass fuel cap and wooden prop: The engine on a 1 Euro Cent coin: And the mentioned wooden/metal skid assembly. The flat spring is from a cordless mouse, because it has to carry the whole model.
  8. 9 points
    Hi Folks, This is the build that nearly broke me, everything that could've gone wrong went wrong. I bought this kit on flea bay ages ago for a song. It comes with demonstrator or Australian AF schemes. I decided I wanted a Hawk T2 from Xtradecal's excellent 4 sqdn package....................this is where my problems began. Looking at a T2 walkaround I saw that the wing fences on the kit were unlike those on the T2, so more daption and scratch building the fuselage halves didn't fit well and required much filling and sanding to get a good fit........................then you find you should have fitted the tail pipe before closure so you split your flawless work to insert it !!! Undercarriage doors were also a major problem, they are too thick to fit together so I replaced with plasticard. The final insult came when I went to fit the canopy, when the blast screen was fitted the canopy would not seat properly, hence the open canopy(showing the poor interior that wasn't meant to show Believe me this model nearly actually 'flew' on a number of occasions. On the plus side I learned a lot and the supplied stencils were very sparse !!! Cheers, All comments welcome PS: I just noticed the tail fillet is wrong too !!!!
  9. 9 points
    Thanks Rob, glad to know it's not just me. I test fit the one on the still unfinished Mk 22 and it seemed to fit OK. The Mk 21 is almost complete. Some of the decals silvered, but were sorted with the 'poke with a needle and re-apply Micro-sol' technique. The exception was the serial number on the left side. Phooey. Also, the pastel desaturation on the roundel turned out a little funny, but I think I like it enough to keep it as is. I went ahead and painted over the silvering. Of course, this just brings attention to that fact that I used mismatching individual serial numbers in order to come up with 'LA200'. To make up for it, I added the missing bit of the 'D' squadron code to the cockpit door. This will be the last time it is ever seen. Door attached, mirror painted, and toothbrush bristle aerial fitted. Just a couple more little bits to add and it'll be ready for RFI.
  10. 8 points
    Hi guys, here is my latest build, the Eduard Macchi MC 202. It is the Hasegawa kit with Eduard goodies. i've added the brassin engine bay. This build will appear in a future issue of the french magazine Wingmasters. Cheers, Manu.
  11. 8 points
    Hello all. I just finished the A6M2 Type 0 Model 52 Zero in ATAIU SEA (Allied Technical Air Intelligence Unit South East Asia) BI-05. This was a unique find when I was looking for something to complete for an RAF Group Build on another site. I like Japanese aircraft very much and was fortunate to to find decals for it from Rising Decals. The kit is the Hasegawa kit and went together quickly and easily as most 1/72 Hasegawa kits do.
  12. 7 points
    Hiya Folks, Having recently built the 1/48th scale Special Hobby Wirraway I decided to have another go at its smaller brother from the same stable and it is a very nice kit indeed. Here is the WIP if anybody is interested; This one was built as A20-47, GA-B from 21 Sqn RAAF based in Malaya in 1941. After re equipping with the Brewster Buffalo the unit passed its Wirraway`s and some experienced pilots to form part of Y Sqn RAF at Kluang, Malaya which was set up to train newly arrived fighter pilots. During the Japanese invasion these aircraft also flew ground attack sorties against the advancing Japanese and at least one was fitted with a rudimentary dive bombing siren. Here is the real aeroplane; And finally,....here is the model; and here is another I built earlier,...well 2013 to be exact! The new model was brush painted using Polly Scale acrylics for the camouflage and Tamiya rattle can was used for the silver undersides, Cheers Tony
  13. 6 points
    Hello gentlemen, I've finished this little bird recently. It comes out of the Eduard Limited Edition kit, which is basically Hasegawa kit with some extras. I've added some more from Eduard range, namely wheels, nozzle, PE set, ordnance and RBF flags. Quickboost came for the rescue with gun barrels and the bang seat. I've added refueling probe tip from Master and accessory from Hauler/Brengun. Except stencils and several smaller decals it's all painted mostly with Mr. Paint colors and Gunze Mr. Color (C range). Depicted airframe served aboard of USS Oriskany (CV-34) during WestPac Cruise 1969 on Yankee Station, which marked the first deployment of VA-195 Dambusters with their famous eagle emblem and their last deployment on Scooters. I hope you like the result.
  14. 6 points
    An athlete goes to the doctor. "I'm worried," she says. "I think I've started growing a willy, and I think it might be these steroids they're giving me." "Anabolic?" asks the doctor. "No, just a willy."
  15. 5 points
    It's been a while, but I've finally finished a ship! This is a scratch build of HMS Jamaica that I kicked off about 2 1/2 years ago, but then stalled while I collected a few accessories and brass sets. My aim was to model her configuration in December 1943 during the Battle of NorthCape. Here's the rest of the photos: Closeups And a couple of shots alongside my HMS Sheffield, also at both North Cape nad Berents Sea battles: I'll try to be a bit quicker off the mark with HMSs Belfast, DoY and Norfolk... Andrew
  16. 5 points
    Hey guys, here is my latest work - the kit is very nice Eduard 1/48 Bf 109F-4. It was finished in a bit over a week - on very last minute i have decided to go and see the Moson kit show this year, as it was my dream for some time already. And because i did not want to go there with empty hands, i had to build something.. The kit is amazing, goes together realy well and all problems vere caused just by myself and the limited time i had. I have used the Profipack boxing, so i had some basic PE sheet and canopy masks from the box,on top of that i bought the Eduard Brassin flaps - the flaps in the kit have sadly some sink marks (i have noticed it on the G-6 kit earlier too, which is using the same sprues with little parts) and also the Brassin flaps have some very nice details added. Because of the rushing i did not make any WIP thread around, so hope you wont mind some WIP shots I have added a bit of details on the cockpit sidewalls - mainly in the front areas as these were totaly empty (but as you ll see later, these front areas of the pit are almost not at all visible after the fuselage is glued together). I wanted to create some textures for the basic camouflage as i was not sure how many of it ll be visible later (did not know how much of the white i m going to remove, but on my next winter camouflage model i m going to skip this step as totaly nothing of this is visible later, so it is just waste of time/paint.. + so many paint layers effectively lowers the visible details later. But when i have already put the time in, here we go with the shots The original idea was to make the winter camo scheme and also some snowy base. As a part of it, i wanted to make the canopy glass icy/frozen from inside as i have seen it like that on some photos. So i tried some stuff for re-creating ice on it. At first it looked ok, but in the end.. well.. simply it did not turn as good as i hoped. The snow on the base also did not look good to me, so i have scraped the idea for now... I ll need to practice and try more and more Then the fun with Washable white started (in my case from AK751 as it was in stock in local hobby store). The effects you can achieve with this kind of paint is very nice, also the effect depends on how long you let the white paint dry, before you going to wash it off. Long drying time makes the paint goes off in some kind of chips, after short drying time the paint is washed off in sort of "fuzzy" way First layer of washable white, washed off after long dry time Second layer of washable white, washed off after short dry time Third layer: chipping flow + dusty layer of flat "dirty" white, chipped down after few minutes, followed by brown-ish filters (mainly on wing roots where the crew would be moving) And here it is in the very end I m sorry for so many shots, but you know me guys, i cant decide which shot to use, so i use more of them... And trust me, i have used only like half of the images i have made.. Hope you like the result and thanks for watching guys Have a great day.
  17. 5 points
    A bit of fun while some serious modelling should have been going on (Mach2 WB-57F)............... I found a Hasegawa Ki43 in my local discount store for £4.69, remembering it as a decent kit I couldn't resist especially as i had just joined the Asian Air Arms SIG and had thoughts of Indonesian markings. A thread on here diverted me to Communist China and enquiries were followed up with help in the form of decals and information. Thanks go to Patrick for decals and guidance and Nicholas Millman for detailed help. Built straight from the box the main problem was finishing. The information from Nick Millman was that the 4 aircraft used by the Communists came from a Japanese training unit which had early Ki-43-IIs. The problem is they had a mix of solid and mottle finished aircraft and it is not known what the Chinese took, with the additional complication that a worn solid finish can look like mottle in a photograph, especially a poor quality one of only part of an aircraft. No photos of aircraft in Chinese Communist markings are known anyway, the only source known to Nick is a drawing in a Chinese book. This seems to have been interpreted many ways online and by decal manufacturers. What follows is my interpretation, all errors are mine and do not reflect on Nick, Patrick or any other source. The mottle finish was my first attempt with a double-action airbrush - more practice required! Colours were Tamiya JA Green and Flat Aluminium as they were what I had to hand while the cockpit was a mix of US Interior Green and Zinc Chromate Yellow to try to get to the colour advised by Nick.
  18. 5 points
    Here is something finished! It took me quite a while. Especially the last bits and pieces. It is still missing the antennas (since I couldn't figure out a good way to do them. This is my first serious attempt at a 1/32 scale plane. I used to build some as a kid, since I often got them as presents for christmas etc. People just wouldn't understand I didn't like them that much since they weren't good to play with and didn't match the 1/72 soldiers and tanks. So I was never really into that scale. Now that I finished this one I am actually quite encouraged to do more of the "big stuff". Perhaps also an age thing ("old man's scale"). Hope you don't mind the stupid background. It's all I had at the moment.
  19. 5 points
    Quick Friday update, everybody. Working on the central seam in the cowling area I had to do some filling with CA glue there, and used the tape to protect the surrounding areas from the glue and the consequent sanding. After a first sanding and polishing session, I brush painted some Vallejo Grey Primer on the seam: The picture isn't very clear, unfortunately, but this showed more filling to be done on a few small segments, so I had to do a second masking/filling/sanding/polishing session, this time adding some talc to the CA to speed up the process. After that, some rescribing was needed, and then I glued on the windshield: On the real aircraft, the windshield frame sits slightly proud of the fuselage; in the kit, most of this frame is moulded in the fuselage plastic, meaning that the clear part should be flush with it. The kit windshield, instead, is slightly smaller than said framing, so I had to glue it in place with small CA gel glue drops and keeping it pressed down as if squeezing it out to the right width. I left this to cure overnight, then I'll run some Tamiya Green Cap capillary along the clear part edges, to ensure a stronger bond. The back fuselage top seam was also sanded smooth (no particular trouble there) and, since this specific airframe sports the early style antenna, I glued in a mounting peg coming from a spare propeller blade of a 1/32 Spitfire kit to fill in the antenna mast mounting hole: This was glued using Tamiya Green Cap and left to cure overnight as well, prior to cutting out and sanding smooth (tonight, hopefully). Once done, I'll mask the cockpit and start working on the bottom seam. Back to the C205 rear bulkhead, I decided to use the vacformed curved part, and glued it to the PE: A dryfit with cockpit and fuselage halves showed (just like on the C202) that I had to adjust the seat position a bit (no pics, sorry, but they would have been absolutely identical to the C202 ones). Here it is: The C205 control stick was also glued in place - note the four firing cables for the wing and nose guns, as opposed to the only two on the C202 Now I still have to do some dryfit of the C205 IP with the fuselage halves, than I'll be ready to button them up too. Comments welcome, as usual Ciao
  20. 4 points
    I shall be starting with this. Im on a role with big jets at the moment. A big box DSC_0015 by stuart wellard, on Flickr With a lot of goddies inside, most of which are weapons so il try to use some on this A/C. DSC_0016 by stuart wellard, on Flickr
  21. 4 points
    Just an old kit I picked up off Ebay. Not sure what it comes from. Its a snap together kit, no glue required, which creates it own problems. The colour scheme is mine.
  22. 4 points
    So a final Sunday night update, Here is a shot of the breech and associated plumbing where it will eventually live through the hole for the FCT Now you know why I had to build it! Without it all you have is a big empty space! There`s a lot of kit in here! These shockingly blurred fots give an indication of the length of the L1 120mm gun, even in 1:35 scale its impressive! The gunners platform now has some reinforcing on the support gussets This is the idea.............. And this is the visible end................... Oh, and I got some Mr Surfacer in the turret! Win column! Ta for lookin` no "G" Granto
  23. 4 points
    Thanks Rob As suggested I'm doing 'half coats' and another has gone on just now: Enough already. I'll just have to fiddle now until the transfers arrive. Talk amongst yourselves...
  24. 4 points
    evening folks thanks for dropping in so, on to whats been happening - I have been a bit slow lately as my day job has changed where I have double the responsibility and double the people for no more money (go figure...) so bouts at the bench have been limited by new demands.. ..I needed to start making up the panel on the other side where the camera lens is - you can see here it is on TZ138 - just a window rather than set into a door like the other side... ..again the panel is laid out in tape on the model.. ..this is then detailed and the window laid out... ..and the panel before being rolled flat to stop all the detail looking 'blown'... ...now on to preparing the fuselage to attach the panel - it is masked and hinged to a bit of tape so the positioning is right... ..after that, the panel sitting below the camera window was prepped.. ..and both attached to the airframe.. more panels to come - I have a numbered order to do them in so they overlap in the right way - I also need to just do some more tests as these panels are from a new batch of metal and it seems to be reacting differently to the finishing process, the older stuff seems to polish up to a mirror finish, whereas this is needing a bit more work.. thats it for now... TTFN Peter
  25. 4 points
    Not just according to me, Fernando. In describing the development of the RAF camouflage colours the RAE reported that "the Dark Green finally chosen to represent the various greens of nature was a dull "bronze" green, containing a proportion of red, with a diffuse reflectivity of 10%". Notwithstanding that statement that red was included in devising the colour, the 1940 formula for Dark Green paint made by Goodlass, Wall & Co. Ltd., for example, consisted of three pigment "bases" incorporating chromium oxide (green), vegetable black and brown precipitated iron oxide. Those pigments do not result in a cold, blueish green or even a straight green. That company's catalogue reference for Dark Green paint was 83914 but it was made from a combination of 83905, 83910 and 83907, each of which was a paint colour with its own constituent binder and solvents. That's the applied paint. The MAP colour standard for Dark Green as measured is a Munsell Yellow (like Olive Drab) approaching Green Yellow, quite dark at 2.9 and of low saturation at 1.5. Geoff Thomas' Munsell equivalent as published in ‘Eyes for the Phoenix’ (Hikoki, 1999) & ‘True Colours’ (Airfix Magazine, Feb 1983) is similar to mine - 10 Y 3/1.5 vs 10 Y 2.9/1.5 - just being a tiny tad lighter. The current BS 381C gives 241 Dark Green as a Munsell Green Yellow, approximately 2.3 GY 3.3/1.2. Taking the BS 381c L*a*b* measurements the difference from the wartime colour is at 5.54 where < 2.0 = a close match. The modern colour is slightly less saturated and lighter. However the BS 381c L*a*b* measurements equate to Munsell 9.8 Y 3.5/0.9 so the issue is around the fine - and close - transition from a Y to GY. Either way that is on the "dark yellow"/olive drab side of green whilst a colder, less olive, viridian-type green would measure as a Munsell Green or Blue Green. Where chrome green (a mixture of chrome yellow and Prussian blue) was used instead of chromium oxide (which was in short supply) the paint surface would shift towards more olive or brownish as the yellow gradually decomposes the blue pigment. Chromium oxide greens are quite stable but as other pigments in the mix degraded a stronger, brighter green appearance might be expected. That is counter intuitive where it is more common to expect all paints to "fade". Wartime documents show that even in official circles the difference between chromium oxide and chrome green pigments was not appreciated and the term "chrome green" was used to describe both. The use of both pigments by different paint companies would have resulted in paints that matched the standard to begin with but which weathered very differently. The significance of that is where extant paint samples are used to determine the original appearance of the Dark Green colour standard. There is always a tendency to conflate paint colour standards with applied paints so that people talk about aircraft painted with MAP Dark Green, or ANA this or FS that. But those are colour standards and the applied paints were manufactured to match them against a colour card, with each manufacturers own designation and formula for each paint colour, not always recorded (and with so far unknown criteria for tolerance and acceptance of variance in most cases). There is and was inevitable variance, by manufacturer formula, batch, application and weathering. One evidenced example of this is a RAE August 1941 analysis of Night and Special Night paints as applied in 11 different aircraft factories using paints supplied by five different paint manufacturers. The paints differed in reflectivity, the application methods differed in effectiveness and the appearance and resilience of the painted surfaces varied and that was before the aircraft entered service and were subjected to exposure, weathering and wear or tear. To cut a long story short, whilst extremes of variance in colour should probably be avoided I think modellers can relax about minor variance and just go with their preferred paint brand. The models are replicating applied paint and all the other factors affecting its appearance and not the colour standard per se. Nick
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