Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 27/01/17 in all areas

  1. 23 points
    Just finished this for The Modelling News. I quite enjoyed this build, its your typical Kittyhawk kit though, Careful dry fitting and preparation of the parts will reward you with a kit that fits together with a minimum of filler. The model was finished with Gunze colours and the kit decals. If I was to build another one though, I would grab the Kinetic kit, only because you can make a SuE or SuM. The kittyhawk kit will only make a SuM , completed build7 , etendard5-1 by , Thanks for looking Bruce
  2. 10 points
    After a long building project I have o call this project finish. I have tried to create a Dh Venom NF 51 aka Swedish Airforce J 33 in 1/48 scales. I have parts from three different kits. Nose and cockpit are from Classic Airframes Vampire NF 10, wings and midsection are Classic Airframes Venom FB 4, and tailbooms are from Aeroclub Sea Venom. It has not been a shake and bake kit at all. Parts has to be modified, I have used at least a half tube of filler. This project has spent a lot of time on the “shelf of doom”, especially since I got the news that Pilot Replicas are working on a Venom series, but a good friend told me, “finish the project and move on”, and so I did. Nicklas IPMS Sweden Some not so good pictures. This fellow help me along the time.
  3. 9 points
    A few firsts for me here, including 1) my first completed scratchbuilt model, 2) my first attempt at replicating water and, crucially, 3) my first attempt at using my smartphone to link photos from PB. What could possibly go wrong? The model is made from plastic card, stretched sprue and small pine pieces for the floats. The pilot figure is carved from plastic scrap and the prop started life as a toothpick. I deliberately didn't rig it, add much detail or create 3-D wing rib detail as life is too short; it was really refreshing to work in a small scale and not worry about such things. The muddy river water is simply clear silicone sealant applied over a painted skim of woodfiller, textured with a flat wooden strip and more sealant added for the wake, with white paint touched in where appropriate. I went to last year's Bridlington & Wolds show at Driffield and was completely taken by the display of 1:144 models, especially those that were scratchbuilt and, in particular, the collection of Blackburn models. The approach of suggesting rather than incorporating detail was a revelation; I don't know the builder's name but, if you read this, thanks for the inspiration! Right - now to see if those link thingys work. Here goes...! Jon
  4. 8 points
    G'day people, Here are some pics of the kit ejection seat going together, First job was to tidy up the seam that passes through the headbox, Next up the addition of some of the PE belts as well as some additional details that were missing Next up , a splash of paint to see what we are dealing with. I do not like the pre-painted PE belts. Apart from not getting the colours right, the paint tends to flake off if you bend the belts too much. I prefer to brush paint them instead. And finally a quick test fit, cheers, Pappy
  5. 8 points
    I was watching. I don't know if this will help or hinder but . . . . Dark Olive Drab 41 was a permanent camouflage paint introduced, following a series of tests, in AAF Bulletin 41 issued in September 1940. It was promulgated as the standard upper surface camouflage colour for AAF aeroplanes from 1941 to late 1943. The pigment specification was optional leaving manufacturers free to formulate their own paints to match the standard which was specified in both lacquer and dope formats. This resulted in paints which although matched to the appearance of the standard could and did age and weather very differently once applied to aeroplanes. Army FM 5-20H - Camouflage Materials and Manufacturing Techniques of July 1944 advised in Section 1. Paragraph 5, PAINTS. (e). ..."In spite of color standardization, there is considerable variation in hue between lots and between the products of different manufacturers." That doesn't mean that OD was a "concept" - because there were specific colour standards for it, however much the actual applied paints might have varied. There is 1944 Army documentation on the testing of 28 manufactured olive drab paints which demonstrates that some were accepted within an established tolerance and others rejected if they didn't meet it. The measurement involved was exacting, plotting Munsell values (!) all of which were Yellow (Y) hue and comparing them to the standard which was specified as 7.0 Y 3.70/1.73. The colours were broadly divided into browns and greens, then further sub-divided with commentary on their characteristics such as "brownish gray", "medium yellowish brown", "weak olive green", etc. Anyone interested in seeing those and the number crunching involved is welcome to drop me a PM. The real concept is actually this:- 1. The established, agreed and promulgated colour standard 2. The variance in the batches of manufactured paints 3. The variance introduced by application methodology 4. The effects of service exposure and weathering on the applied paints. Those four main factors tend to get conflated in discussion and added to those is how hobby paints shape up, which involves a lot of subjective preference. In March 1942 the JAC (Joint Aircraft Committee) agreed that Dark Olive Drab could be substituted for MAP Dark Green (RAF) on aircraft manufactured for export to Britain. In July 1942 it was agreed that this colour would be standardised as Olive Drab ANA 613 and substituted for MAP Dark Green and MAP Dark Slate Grey (FAA). The new ANA standards were not officially issued until September 1943 by which time an Army intervention had slightly altered the appearance of this colour. In January 1943, Major A.I. Totten Jr. of the Army Resources and Production Division proposed to consolidate the two shades of Olive Drab in use at the time, the USAAF dark Olive Drab 41 and the Army Ground Forces (AGF) Olive Drab, into a new colour Army/Navy (AN) 319, which was the same colour as the AGF (Army Ground Forces) Olive Drab. Major Totten's proposal was passed to the JAC Technical Sub-Committee on Camouflage by the Director of Military Requirements in February 1943 and approved by them in March 1943, prior to the promulgation of the ANA colours. Therefore the standards 319 in Army Spec 3-1 Revised of April 1943 and 613 of ANA Bulletin 157 of September 1943 were supposed to be equivalents and have been reported as identical. The 1943 Bulletin 157 ANA 613 Olive Drab and Dark Olive Drab 41 are slightly different in appearance. One of the reasons for the delay in introducing ANA 613 related to the reflectivity requirements. The original Dark Olive Drab was 7.8% but tests by Material Command Engineering Division at Eglin Field in June 1943 revealed that the new paint had a reflectivity of 9.4% which exceeded the recommended 8%. Various measures were then undertaken to reduce the reflectivity of ANA 613 before it was accepted for use as a standard. ANA 613 was eventually reduced to 7% which was the same reflectivity as MAP Dark Green. The slight change in appearance between the two colour standards was also related to the need to conserve Chromium Oxide. TO 07-1-1 of April 1944 announced the discontinuation of camouflage of AAF aircraft but has sometimes been confused because it listed authorised camouflage finishes for liaison aircraft, helicopters and gliders using paint to either Olive Drab 41 or ANA 613 standards. There is little doubt that stocks of paint to Dark Olive Drab 41 standard would have been available through to the end of the war. In Bulletin 157e issued in 1964 Olive Drab ANA 613 was superseded by a new colour FS 34087 incorporated into FS 595a and of appreciably more brownish appearance. The matching of FS 34087 to ANA 613 has caused considerable confusion about the true appearance of the latter colour. This information, the colour values involved and a comparison of the colour standards are included in my PDF report The Development of USAAC/USAAF Olive Drab (1923-1964) available on request. I think I may have even provided copies to some of the posters here. The closest FS 595 value to OD 41 is our old friend FS 33070. Nick
  6. 7 points
  7. 6 points
  8. 6 points
    I'd been putting off the seat for ages..because of the amount of PE belts.... I really dislike the PE belts but the only resin seats I had was a Pavla one and it was far to large.. Eventually I had to bite the bullet. I left of 2 small belts (I know Bruce) that sat on the seat pan, but as far as I was concerned it was busy enough. A bit of a wash and dry brush, along with decals from the kit decal sheet (which BTW aren't mentioned in the instructions), along with a bit of swearing, and I was happy with the final result. The seat sits on a plastic plinth on the cockoit floor, there is a recess in under the bottom of the seat pan. After sitting this in the aircraft it sat , to my eyes anyway, to high. So I carved the plinth off Now it can sit a lot lower and I can adjust height so it looks right (to me ) Sitting in the aircraft it looks OK .. Decided to sart doing a bit of detail painting prior to the wash going on. I used Vallejo Acrylics for everything except for wing tip position lights On the images of this aircraft I've seen shortly after it got back from the Falklands, you can see where they over-painted the white Sqn tail art and Royal Navy legend. I photo copied the decals for the tail art, roughly cut it out and used it as a mask for a darker shade of grey,
  9. 5 points
    I have been fascinated by this modern flying boat since first seeing one in the 1968 Observers Book Of Aircraft which my dad bought me with a school gift token. I do not know when the Hasegawa model of this flying boat first appeared but it does appear in a 1975 Hasegawa catalogue that I have. Also the kit contains a choice of parts to build either the PS-1 ( Patrol Seaplane ) flying boat or the SS-2 ( Search Seaplane ) amphibian and both of these represent the prototypes so I would date the kit as early 1970s. I managed to find a second-hand 1970s original issue in a faded box at a IPMS Nationals show in the 1990s. And as lady luck was smiling on me that day I then found somebody selling second-hand copies of the Japanese aviation publication KOKU-FAN featuring superb colour photographs of these flying boats in operational service. I now had no excuse not to start this model which I built in 1998. The first prototype PS-1 numbered 5801 flew in 1967. There were two prototypes 01 and 02 and then two pre-series aircraft 03 and 04. These flying boats had an amazing STOL performance with blown flying surfaces and were able to operate in quite high wave conditions. They were probably the most water-capable flying boats ever built. The first full-series aircraft 5805 or 05 flew in 1972. A total of 23 PS-1 maritime patrol and anti-submarine flying boats were built between 1967 and 1979. These were numbered 5801 to 5823 or 01 to 23. They served with the Japanese Maritime Self Defence Force until 1989 when they were replaced by Lockheed P-3 Orions. Out of the 23 built 6 were lost in accidents with a total loss of 35 aircrew which is a reflection of the difficult conditions that maritime patrol flying boats have to operate in. An amphibious version the SS-2 was built for the search and rescue role. This aircraft has a strengthened retractable undercarriage which enables it to operate from runways and to just land on water when required. Ten US-1 and US-1A (SS 2A) aircraft were built. I decided I was going to build an operational PS-1 and for that I would need to make a number of changes and additions to the kit. 1970s era Hasegawa instructions. Not that many parts considering the size of the model which I think is great in these over complicated times......but what you get is beautifully moulded and shaped correctly. If you built this model straight from the box it would be quite a quick build. This is how the PS-1 was presented in the 1975 Hasegawa catalogue. It represents prototype number 02 and is missing quite a lot of things that the operational aircraft had, most obviously the lack of bow spray pressure suppression slots. Also note the narrow square-shaped cockpit side window of the prototype aircraft. This is a PS-1 nicely built as Hasegawa intended straight from the box which I saw at Scale Model World. But there is such a lot missing for an operational aircraft. This is a drawing I prepared during construction........looks like I had a lot of work to do.................... What is there not to love about these aircraft.................. Photo KOKU-FAN AIREVIEW'89
  10. 5 points
    Here are a few pictures of the cheesy Alien from Mars Attacks movie of the 1990's staring Michael J. Fox et. all MOBEUS injection moulded model with metal lamp pole. Added the extra eye to the man, and spray-painted the gloss Alien space suit etc. Painted the edges of the bottom of the Helmet Transparency matt black to reduce reflections. Grotesque blood has dried out too much though. Ugh! Lamp could have been lit with an LED. the flesh could have been dry brushed after to improve the texture. but its done I think . (sorry they have all got rotated).
  11. 5 points
    Hi All, Here is my recently completed Airfix MiG-15, dimensional and shape errors and all. It was painted with Tamiya paints (AS-12 Bare Metal underneath the XF-59 Desert Yellow, XF-61 Dark Green, and X-18 Semi-gloss Black camouflage scheme). Final finish is a mix of Vallejo Matte and Satin varnish. Thanks for looking! Cheers, Albert
  12. 5 points
    Did a little more today: Worked on getting the nacelles closed up and discovered that the metal landing gear that I got just barely reached the mounting points. So I added a bit of tubing to give it a more solid connection. I wonder if the sanding that I did on the nacelles caused the sides to spread. The quality of the metal parts makes me doubt this. Closed them up and filled a few spots and drilled out the exhausts a bit more. Got the half tub and the shelf behind the pilot's seat glued in place. Worked on the rear wheel. The kit has it mounted at the wrong angle so I started adding structure to support a better angle. Drilled out the cylinder and inserted a bit of wire for strength: I ended by gluing the other side of the tub and the instrument panel in place. The stick is yet to be inserted as well as the gun sight. That's it for today. Thanks for looking in. Terry
  13. 4 points
    Let me present you Consolidated PBY-5A Catalina, B/N unknown, white 30. In this look from December 1943 the plane took part in the evacuation of the australian troops from New Guinea (Sepik river). During few days the Catalinas from VP-11 ferried 219 australian soldiers and 12,5 tons of the material. The planes were widely worn-down. The national insignias on the fuselages under the cockpits of some of the Catalinas were oversprayed.
  14. 4 points
    I needed a friend for my recently completed Tamiya Tomcat so this is my attempt at ZM's new Phantom released late last year at Telford. Built pretty much straight from the kit except for Eduard Brassin ejection seats and wheels. I also used their PE set for the cockpit too. The decals are from Furball. Thanks for looking
  15. 4 points
    Hi all, here some pics of my new build Italeri Mirage IIIE. Apart from the pitot (by Master) I build it OOB. Hope you like it!
  16. 4 points
    Pretty quick build and one for my own collection for a change, just over two weeks work from start to finish, if i ever come get another one i think i might do a NMF version. Overall a nice kit to build, the only thing that lets it down are the deep old panel lines, but having done a few Anigrand kits that is par for the course. The landing gear i thought was going to be an issue but it is quite steady even with all the weight of the resin.After getting the base coat on i just added some random panel variations to break up the surface. The real thing if we can call it that is quite glossy and patchy but its kind of dificult to get to fussy with this sort of thing as its not real so you dont really have a lot to work with, i suppose that is also a good side to sci fi work, no real right or wrong. Last thing to do was decal and assemble, job done, yes the air brakes are up. Thanks for looking. Regards.Danny.
  17. 4 points
    Good evening fellow modellers. Recently, I bought this rather old kit, offered by Revell for a bargaining price, so naturally I could not resist it Naturally, some serious sanding was needed (especially pin marks, they're everywhere!): I've supplemented the cockpit with rib structure, seat and basic instrument panel: Painted wings and fuselage: Then decided that this kit deserves better than Spandau machine guns provided and bought Eduard's offering: Decals were quite a pain to apply, they were thick and did not respond to any decal softener at all: All in all, fitting between bottom and top wing is not ideal but with some elbow grease and a lot of patience, hey presto: There are still some things that need to be made: additional wiring, replacing wire that spans from cowling to wing with a thinner one, finish undercarriage, add pipes between engine and cooler in the wing, seatbelts, weathering, etc... Stay tuned Regards, TonkaGR.1
  18. 4 points
    And now some EDSG (Lifecolor again lightened a touch with some white). The masking of the curves at the nose and tail were interesting. I cut a template from Tamiya tape then popped it on. Once this has had a few days to settle down I'll touch it up, paint the tip tanks blue and give it a gloss coat prior to decals. The black radome and anti-icing strips will be painted very last.
  19. 4 points
    Hello vacuous followers (chortle , chortle) work progresses, difficulties abound eg: 1. this is the first vac form model I have built where the engine nacelles are separate units and not molded as part of the wing, this is good the shapes achieved are much better this way but it it does make a lot of work..each nacelle has to be treated like a separate mini fuselage. 2. with the inner nacelle slid onto the wing at the correct position the propeller would strike the fuselage (reciting the vacuform refrains under one's breath).. how to deal with this? the only viable option is to clip the prop blades 3. the main undercarriage mount will be in the wing, lucky I haven't glued the halves together yet! again I think these pics will save a thousand words: I am going to try and get some larger diameter brass tube for the exhausts the inner nacelles need to have their u/c doors cut out, then I have to build 3 more!
  20. 4 points
    Thanks guys Just a quick update. K2's got his legs now. I've glued the knee joints in position, but he's not pinned to the base yet, so he is at least capable of standing upright albeit rather precariously. All the other leg joints will remain articulated, so I'll still have some adjustment when he's attached to the base Andy
  21. 4 points
    As mentioned with my other F-16 build I have had an extra couple of days build time than normal, but not an awful lot to show for it. A lot of the time has been spent doing stuff I’d normally be doing at the end of a build….anyway this is where I’m at. The intake is together and at least for this build the joins inside aren’t too bad, so they should be easy to tidy up. Once that’s done I can fit this. The gear has been painted and given it’s initial wash, I just need to now finish off the painting and detailing and that to can be fitted. The tailpipe is pretty much done, just a couple of wee bits I need to do then I’ll mask it off and fit the shroud section. The pylons have been fitted as well as most of the small intakes and such over the plane. As mentioned I’ve been doing a lot of the final stuff and most of the time have been spent of the weapons. They’re getting close to being done, I had the rub back the main drop tanks as the joins were pretty (I love this one) I’ve just come across an F-16 with a refueling probe attached! The probe is built into one of the conformal tanks, I have only found some test photo’s of this (about a 1/3rd of the way down), but I want it for this build! Conformal ATA Refuelling Probe Actually I didn’t think of conformal tanks for her at all! So I’m off to do some shopping on evilBay. If I can’t find what I want then I have a back up plan in mind!! Now some fun stuff, I’m now down to two weapons loadouts; SLAM E’s Popeye 2’s with Data Link Pod
  22. 3 points
    Hi all, As quick post of my completed Fury. It has taken me a while and has been a pig to build, as those of you who have tried it will know. It is so fragile in places! But, of course, it is the only option in gentlemen's scale. I got the markings from a small shot of her in Steve Ginter's book and home printed them. I added a Pavla cockpit set and tail pipe. The only other addition was a set of canopy rails from Plastruct square rod.I started by attempting the machine depicted in the Print Scale set but gave up as they are atrocious and too large. So I went for a sister ship that had a slight different dayglo pattern on the wings. So she is a machine that was based at Glynco. I had to scribe the panels - my first attempt ever! Weathered with Flory Dirt. All paints are Humbrol enamel. Words of warning? 1. if you go for the Pavla set the canopy is out of scale and too large. I kept the front end from the kit and added the rear sliding portion from the Pavla. Not the best but hey ho! 2. the undercarriage legs are so, so fragile. For the nose gear I set the leg in a small block of sprue and then added the supporting strut from Plastruct round .8mm rod. 3. the wheels are from a F-86H (Special Hobby). Not completely accurate but better than the flimsy kit option. 4. change the nosewheel light within the door to the opposite side and at the bottom 5. open up the intake fully. I then used a modified inlet duct from a Heller F-86 to give it depth. Not my best. Martin
  23. 3 points
    I was looking at them and thinking that myself Tony, probably do it tomorrow. Thanks John, Won it's class at the club comp tonight. Phil the Happy Penguin
  24. 3 points
    So another update... (Getting bored now) Because i'm too fussy for my own and good and like making work for myself... Where I had done the 'touch ups' with the mr paint you could still see the gouges in the finish from the wing walk shenanigans. Also where I had gave it a smooth down with a rag for dust removal ready for washes, the mr paint 'airframe touch ups' scuffed a bit (adherence to glossy gauzy or lack there of) and ended up looking more like an afv type whitewash. Damn. So, I sanded the gouges down till smooth and resprayed those areas with the relevant mr hobby camo colours. Then I mixed up a dirty grey from mr paint and levelling thinner and went over the whole airframe. First on the light grey 'touch ups' again to give them a darker centre and hide scuffing. Then also did some general post shading and streaking. Also then went over the edges/borders of the camo to make the central parts look faded and regain the contrast as the 317/337 were starting to merge together. So now it looks like this, and is having no more airbrush work unless its the final flat coat - in these pics it has been reglosssed to seal both the decals and post shading and is hopefully ready for a panel line wash on the weekend.
  25. 3 points
    Here it is so far. Still needs mirrors, tow cables, antennas, lots of junk and paint and dirt to match my C2 Cdn Leopard. Lots of fiddly parts and a surprising amount of photo-etch for Trumpeter. i think I'll leave the big storage boxes off the back and I left the driver's windows off the hatch as I think all that looks goofy. I see the cable cutter in front of the driver's hatch is bent to the side, camera shows all again.
This leaderboard is set to London/GMT+01:00