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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/24/2016 in all areas

  1. Hello there, I started the Spartan about 3 years ago and this is now my second rollout for 2016 (which is already quite a lot for me...) It took me sweat and blood to finish it and almost landed in the trash bin, after a serious incident with a hot spotlight... But, I managed to save her and proceeded to the very end. As for the kit - it is from Italeri (1/72) and...well, not the best fit. But ok, the guys from Italeri did a good job all in all. Details are more than ok and they were bold enough to produce a plane like this, that is not that popular after all (imho). And still better than any resin kit... The decal-sheet is from Ronin Decals. Never worked with decals thin like this. They are excellent, but one has to be very careful and patient, because they tend a lot to "roll over". Other than that, they resist to a proper amount of tear, unless you really mess it up. Nevertheless, there is a drawback for this sheet. I found the walkway color tone being wrong. So I had to mask everything (which was probably anyways better and smarter, but a lot of work) The colors came from AK and it's the first time I've been working with these. They are pretty good, have a very good adherence and the color tone seems to be spot on. (again imho) I used as suggested by the decals sheet FS36099 / FS35237. Aftermarket parts came from Eduard ED73394 (Detail Set) and Eduard EDCX281 (Mask) Ok, enough of writing, I hope you enjoy my effort and on to the pics:
    30 points
  2. hello fellow artists. I leave you here a model i made last year. It is academy's F-4J phantom which comes with jolly rogers decals. but i decided to build it to resemble the tomcatters scheme. With decals from the original kit and the ones from superscale decals, which i was lucky enough to find them on ebay. Also resin upgrades to the intakes, wheels and tires, tailhook, and exhaust pipes. minor scratch into the wheel wells, and finally painted PE for the cockpit. now, to the pictures. regards from Mexico!
    25 points
  3. At last I have finished the Shackleton AEW.2, I have finished it as WL795 as I worked on the initial restoration and conversion of this aircraft, so know it well and am delighted to be able to build it. It is basically the Revell kit with the Airfix interior, ECM mast and cabin heaters, added my own aerials, scoops and lights etc, other than that it's straight from the box, no aftermarket bits or solutions or masks. Some of the build can be seen here, http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234998496-avro-shackleton-aew-mk-2-details/ It's been about 12 years since I completed a kit and this one really feels to be top of the game, It was an absolute joy to build with the fit of parts extremely good, even the front and rear fuselage halves which I dreaded when I first saw them. Paint is good old (the tin was from Toodees, so at least 20 years old!) Hunbrol 164 applied by brush, with two coats of not much younger Kleer, the kit decals went on really well, even on some areas that hadn't had Kleer applied. My only regret is not painting the prop tips, but using the Airfix decals which didn't work two well. This was due to it getting a bit 'fiddly' for me towards the end and just wanting to complete it, future builds of this kit will be pretty much in reverse, ie build up and paint all the small parts first. One neat feature is that you don't need to glue the wings or props on, make it easier for storage and transport. Revell 1/72 Shackleton AEW.2 by James Thomas, on Flickr Revell 1/72 Shackleton AEW.2 by James Thomas, on Flickr Revell 1/72 Shackleton AEW.2 by James Thomas, on Flickr Revell 1/72 Shackleton AEW.2 by James Thomas, on Flickr Revell 1/72 Shackleton AEW.2 by James Thomas, on Flickr Revell 1/72 Shackleton AEW.2 by James Thomas, on Flickr Revell 1/72 Shackleton AEW.2 by James Thomas, on Flickr Revell 1/72 Shackleton AEW.2 by James Thomas, on Flickr Revell 1/72 Shackleton AEW.2 by James Thomas, on Flickr Revell 1/72 Shackleton AEW.2 by James Thomas, on Flickr Revell 1/72 Shackleton AEW.2 by James Thomas, on Flickr Thank you for looking, any comments or criticisms welcomed!
    14 points
  4. Yeah yeah I know, I go from a rare CBI stang to a ubiquitous 8th AF one. But hey, I though it looked great and the carto sheet went on like buttah. A quick, OOB 2-day build. 1/48 Tamiya kit.
    14 points
  5. Hello, Finished one hour ago. I'll try to make some belly pics soon. Beer time !!!! Anis
    12 points
  6. HI all Here are a few images of my Hungarian Stuka from 102/2 Dive Bomber Squadron, based at Kiniowo Airfield, Poland in June 1944. Cockpit Area - photo-etched seatbelts added - pilot’s seat armour plate made from sheet styrene - Waldron photo-etched rudder pedals added Fuselage - kit exhaust replaced with Ultracast resin exhaust - flare pistol opening drilled out - pilot’s sliding canopy replaced with vacuform canopy - antenna wire made from stretched sprue Wings - landing light made from MV Products lens - kit pitot tube replaced with hypodermic needles - aileron and flap control linkage replaced with brass wire - early variant wing walks removed and replaced with plastic strip Paint and Decals - airframe painted with Xtracolor X204 Schwartgrun RLM 70, X205 Dunkelgrun RLM 71, X202 Hellblau RLM 65, X210 RLM Grau RLM 02, X213 Gelb RLM 04, X103 Insignia Red FS111365, Model Master Classic White and Humbrol 2 Emerald Green - national insignia and squadron crest from Aero Master 48-140 Stuka Bombers - the squadron codes are painted on - aircraft weathered with chalk pastels References - Aero Detail No. 11 Junkers Ju87D/G Stuka - Famous Airplanes of the World No. 11 Junkers Ju87D/G Stuka - Squadron In Action No. 73 Ju 87 Stuka - Hungarian Air Force by Squadron Publications - Kagero Books No. 30 Junkers Ju 87 Volume 3 All images were taken by Jamie Leggo. Cheers Randy
    11 points
  7. Good day, gentlemen. Let me present you my next model.
    10 points
  8. Apologies not required Debs - very useful and much appreciated input Giorgio - Debs is further along with this resin casting malarkey than I am. I have always been casting small parts - albeit often complicated shapes - and I have always been able to use a single part mould. There are differing RTV compounds ( so I understand) but the 'standard' one I use is certainly flexible enough to be able to pull out the master and resin cast even with substantial undercuts. I agree with Debs that it is important to mould in a substantial sink or reservoir at the pouring end of the mould to help deal with air bubbles in the pouring resin. The RTV mould will need a lot of squeezing and stretching to expel unwanted tiny air bubbles from the corners - and a reservoir of resin allows space for the bubbles to rise clear of the mould and for resin to replace the air bubbles. I usually create this with plasticine shaped around the master's attachment lug. Back to the Hawks - and I'm afraid yet more airbrakery - but nearly the end!!!!! Lined the sides of the bays with 0.1mm card - just to ensure a crisp edge: Carefully sanded down yesterday's resin casts of the aerodynamic fairing and marked out where to stick em on the airbrakes: Had a brainwave about how to ensure they got stuck where I intended them to be. Drilled some holes in the airbrake and used strips of tamiya tape to hold the fairings central: And applied some thin cyano to the back of the airbrakes so that capillary action drew it down the holes and between the fairings and the airbrake. Et voila: I like doing stupid little stuff like this...... Stops me having to do big difficult stuff.....
    10 points
  9. Another quick update for today, and hopefully onto the finishing straight... I've been busy with the vehicles and figures, but meanwhile I've managed to get the Stirling's turrets on and finished, and the cockpit glazing fitted. Nose turret, with two windscreen washer jets added as well: Mid upper turret: Tail turret: Cockpit glazing: Fit of the cockpit glazing wasn't great, but the Stirling is just about finished now, just the props to add I think. Everything is just about ready to all put together, so more soon... Cheers Simon
    9 points
  10. Hi again, Tonight I managed to progress some more. I started by glueing to toothpicks the smaller parts that were already cleaned and ready for painting. This picture shows the present collection of parts awaiting painting on toothpicks: Next, I glued the wing tips in place. This wasn't straightforward, because there was some wiggling of the tips and I had to hold the parts in my hands while the glue cured, trying to ensure the correct continuity between the surfaces and avoiding odd angles between the parts. I used Tamiya's medium thick glue first, followed by super-thin when the correct positioning was achieved. Anyway, the fit is not perfect and there are seams to treat as well as a small step between the parts, which I tried to keep to the lower surfaces. Maybe it would be better to glue the upper parts of the tips and wings together, then the lower parts of wings and tips and, finally, glue the wings' upper sub-assemblies to the lower sub-assemblies, instead of following the instructions, which make us glue the wings' parts, the tips' parts and then the tips to the wings. The following set of pictures show the results I achieved and what still has to be done. This is a general view of the upper surfaces: This is a general view of the lower surfaces: A detailed view of the join on the lower surface of the starboard wing: A detailed view of the join on the upper surface of the starboard wing: A front view of the join of the starboard wing, showing the small step on the lower surface: A rear view of the starboard wing doesn't show noticeable steps: A detailed view of the join on the lower surface of the port wing: A detailed view of the join on the upper surface of the port wing: A front view of the join of the port wing, showing the small step on the lower surface: A rear view of the port wing doesn't show noticeable steps: Next, I decided to apply some of the exterior panel PE parts. The following sub-assembly is the lower part of the cockpit. A seat is already glued in place and some PE panels must be applied to the underside, external surface. To avoid damaging the seat, the sub-assembly was placed up side down on a box of cotton buds: The three panels were applied and here's the result: Though these PE parts are self-adhesive, I applied first a drop of CA to ensure a permanent bond. A lot of PE panels also had to be applied to the spine of the aircraft. Here's the part, where we can see the engraved detail on the plastic, which will be better detailed by the PE panels: After application of the PE panels, here's the result: Finally, the tail fin also got some detailing. Here's the part: And here it is with a small panel applied: There's a lot of PE panels still to be applied to the wing surfaces, tail plane and fuselage but I'll have to clean these parts of seams and steps first. Sorry for the excessively detailed discussion of the wing tips' joins. Thanks for looking. Cheers Jaime
    9 points
  11. Working even slower than usual this year - finished the first of the year last night . It's the Airfix 1/72 Red Arrows Hawk , built OOB with the exception of Airwaves seat harnesses & a Master pitot . Decals are Model Alliance . Apologies for the poor photo , but it was taken at the workbench with my phone . John Green Nantwich , Cheshire
    8 points
  12. And finally.... This is finished! Thanks for following the build, it's been a genuine pleasure! More in the Gallery. All the best, Alan
    8 points
  13. To the inner part of the frame I added the two vertical members using 145C melting solder: This is where it will sit on the back: I then drilled some holes in the engine for the frame to mount to: The final thing the frame needs are some shaped sheet metal panels on the sides. Here is the kit part and a piece of PE of a suitable width to form the basis of its replacement: This is the setup I used to attach the first panel using 70C solder: Here it is more or less finished: Next I drilled more holes in the engine for the forward pointing, upper struts: Not a great picture but I could then attach the under frame: Then on went the engine along with the upper struts: Next the outriggers that provide protection from and for the prop. They look about 30mm in diameter to me so I used 0.45mm rod, much finer than the kit parts of course. The ends of the rod have been shaped to a mitre as this gives a stronger and neater joint: The assemblies were completed using 70C solder and just finger pressure to hold them in the right position: That's as far as I've got today. Bye for now, Nigel
    7 points
  14. Hi All, This is my 1/72 IL-2 Sturmovik. Tamiya kit (generously donated by Sgt Squarehead) in Xtracrylix and WEM enamels. Built from the box, kit decals. Thread is HERE Great to have so much help and support wit the build. Thanks very much!, Al
    7 points
  15. Yep.. Just had a look on the Hannants web site.. Sorry. I couldn't resist.
    7 points
  16. Hiya Folks, With 1/48th Hasegawa Hurricane kits becoming more and more expensive or rare to find I decided that for this model I would refurbish an old model and repaint it in new colours. The scheme may seen strange but it is based on first hand interviews with a number of Malta veteran RAF ground crew who when asked about the colours applied to the first Spitfire`s of 249 Sqn they replied that they added Blue Grey (most likely EDSG) to cover the sandy colour in the desert scheme,.....just like they had been doing with the Hurricane`s! This was to better camouflage them over the sea. Now I have been unable to fullly determine which Hurricane airframe`s were so painted so the model here can be described as `representative' of this scheme and it could well have worn the more usual Temperate Land Scheme of Dark Earth and Dark Green, but in the photos of the real BE402, LE-S the demarcation lines of the camouflage are hard to determine, although at least one of the nose cowlings appears to from a different aircraft painted in more contrasting colours. Here is the real aircraft; The model; [/url] The model was first built over 15 years ago and it was repainted using Dark Earth and Extra Dark Sea Grey on the upper surfaces with a light blue to represent Sky Blue underneath,....all applied by brush as usual for me. The decals came from the spares box with the white codes from Xtradecal and the black serial from Aviaology decals. The right hand engine cowling was painted using a light brown (mixted from Middle Stone and Dark Earth) and Dark Green to represent what can be seen in the actual photo, maybe a faded old panel pulled from a wrecked aircraft, as was common in Malta. All the best Tony Edit- oops,... just realised that the pitot has gone from below the wing,....must have pinged off while it was taken for photos!
    6 points
  17. Hiya Folks, Here are a pair of 1/72nd Tamiya Thunderbolt`s which were intended to be for the P-47 Group Build but due to illness they could not be finished in time,..... so here they are now instead. The first one is an aircraft from 73 OTU in Egypt and the model was converted to P-47D-30 status by adding some air brakes under the wings and moving the id light,... the decals are from Xtradecal and the WIP is here; http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234999704-172nd-tamiya-thunderbolt-mkii-73-otu-egyptlets-try-again/ It was painted using a Tamiya rattle can for the silver and the O/D etc was brush painted, as was the matt varnish to tone the entire finish down. The second model represents HD265, RS-G of 30 Sqn which appears in a well known photo, the decals came from Rising Sun. The WIP is here; http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234999337-172nd-tamiya-thunderbolt-mkiiwas-73-otunow-hd265-rs-g-of-30-sqn-seac-1945/ This one was brush painted and silver paint chips were added using a silver pencil,.....maybe I got a bit carried away on this one? All the best Tony Edit,....oh bum,......one of the guns from the SEAC model has fallen off,....... carpet monster strikes again!
    6 points
  18. Hi, This is my first build posted on this forum. It is the largest model I have ever build and the most expensive ever buying at rather crazy price. The kit arrived without kit box nor instruction sheet. It's ex-Otaki Testors kit which is typical Japanese kit designed from 70's with thick, hard and brittle plastic, minimal parts count and very simplified or none of detail on some parts while general shape and proportions are pretty good with state-of-the-art sharp, not overdone, recessed panel lines. The followings are notes from my build; Unfortunately my example came with warped fuselage halves and wing halves. Carefully bending with hot water and a force needed to get it all in place. Scratch building a simple cockpit seats, consoles, floor and sidewall as none of these provided in the kit. A clear sprue was missing before the kit reached my hand so I made cockpit windows from clear styrene. Removing kits way too shallow and too simple wheel wells then replaced with proper depth, structure detailed ones from scratch. Detailing nose landing gear struts with taxi light and steering actuators. Scissor links and simplified jackscrew mechanism added to main gear struts. All gear doors were too thick so I thinned them down by sanding. Actuating mechanism and landing lights were added. Smaller nose gear doors moulded as part of each fuselage halve so I cut them and put each small door over inner side of each larger nose gear door. First stage fan blade length of the real TF39 engine is only about halfway of radial distance from spinner cone to intake sidewall while kit engine faces had full length fan blades. I fix these by reducing engine face diameter then encircled by something like inner intake lip and a series of vanes. Engine fan exhaust was simply moulded solid, needed to be hollowed out. Although core exhaust already had an opening to install exhaust cone, I had to thinned very thick core exhaust lip down. Mr. Color no. 302 for darker green, 303 for lighter green and 305 for grey, airbrushed by freehand. Testors decal sheet has markings for two jets. One for early white/grey scheme and another is for Euro 1 scheme which was chosen largely because of childhood memories. Due to their age decal adhesive glue turned into white debris so I had to clean back of each decal film before application. Walkway strips, no-oversteer lines under nose and warning lines on engine cowlings are from Draw Decals. Added fuel jettison nozzles at rear end of outermost flap track fairings. Drilled APU exhaust on both sides of fuselage. Replaced kit antennae with much thinner ones. Any comment welcomed.
    6 points
  19. On with the build.... Decals on. Luckily not many to do, but have to be placed very carefully so they all match up. Next on was the flat coat - I used Xtracrylix flat Varnish as you can vary the reflectiveness with water. Bombs and rockets: I enhanced the strip around the middle with Tamiya tape. Cannon and I think the smaller one is machine guns? I'm sure Jason can clarify? I knocked the little ones off during the build (they push through from inside the wing, so you have to fit them early in the build). I rep;aced them with fine enamelled wire. Don't ask me how i managed to fit the machine gun without removing the canopy., I'm not sure how i did it. Maybe voodoo? Lastly, antenna fitted - I used the same enamelled wire again. Al
    6 points
  20. Well, Keith, a couple of the following pics will reinforce those memories. Thanks for the tip on flocking, Ashley. I've already purchased some flock so will experiment with that firstly. Here's an update. I've had to deal with the gap created by shortening the cradle. The internal sides have been lengthened by a few millimetres at the front as well as the base of the A pillar / kickpanel areas being increased: The front panels have also received some attention. Blanking plates have been installed for the headlights to be mounted on. This first pic shows the void as it stands (on this particular one, they'll be square for the Alan Mann version so the foglamp mounting holes have been filled). On both versions, I've filled the recesses that would be where the anti-splash 'flaps' are glued. This is all very much work in progress so considerable cleaning up to do . . . The next image shows the next stage: the round headlamp apertures have been cutout as have those behind the radiator grill leaving the distinctive 'web' to show. With the grill framework in place: So that's it for now - still a long way to go though! Nick
    6 points
  21. evening folks thanks for chiming in on the wing rib - I have emailed the engineer who looks after TZ138 in Canada, but am most likely going for the more complex rib from the E wing, as I have also been told the 19 has the 'bowser; wing with no cannon so likely simplified the construction here.. seems every Spit has a mystery wrapped in a question, wrapped in an enigma somewhere along the line so, only a little bit done as have been learning on my new toy... it's a micro-lathe and with the gear legs on the horizon, I thought it was about time I got one - it's a steep learning curve though.. I did make a few parts - Rib number 1 - or what can be seen of it - this is the innermost wall of the well.. ..also fixed most of the lining and a few riblets.. ..in both wheelwells.. ..and I cut out a dummy skin so I can try and limit my timewasting on things that genuinely will never be seen gonna start on those pesky linings around the tyre area next, along with the mystery rib.. TTFN Peter
    6 points
  22. I dunno... A chap types "bits and bobs" The clearly slightly lewd Apple autocorrect makes it "bust and bobs" And the clearly even lewder BM community auto correct makes it "bust and boobs" I ask you....... This is the result of my little casting session last night: From left to right: 1. The airbrake aerodynamic fairings 2. aileron aerodynamic fairings 3. nose wheel yoke and 4. nose wheel. The master of the nose wheel yoke I fabricated sometime ago: For the aerodynamic fairings I made silicone rubber moulds of the moulded in detail on the new tool Revell Hawk And the nose wheel is also from the Revell Hawk as it nicely represents the bolts in the wheel hub - rather more neatly than did my scratch built effort from several months back. And I put a lot of effort into that nose wheel as well ............. Still - no point in being sentimental about it
    6 points
  23. German MG 42 Gunner - "Gunther Schmitt" Tamiya 1/16 scale figure in winter greatcoat.
    6 points
  24. Hello again peeps! Gunther is complete and ready for inspection..... ...and there you go. One disgruntled machine gunner spoiling for a fight. I enjoyed this project and feel that for a first attempt at a large scale figure he turned out pretty good. Thanks to all for words of encouragement, and help along the way. Feel free to comment, thanks Cheers, Greg
    6 points
  25. Hi guys. I decided to do a change of direction for my GB entry. My F-111 motivation kinda just vanished this past month (funny how this happens sometimes in modelling) and I found myself picking up some Italeri Starfighters I had in the stash. I wasn't planning on doing a WIP or entering them for this GB due to my other threads but I kept on picking them up and building them a little more until I got really into gear with the project. I only started 3 weeks or so back but have managed to get a decent amount done owing to the kit. So I'll be building a pair of MFG2 F-104G aircraft, operational airframes but also borrowed for the odd display as part of the Viking team. Some pictures here to show what I am going for: http://cdn-www.airliners.net/photos/airliners/6/3/0/0533036.jpg?v=v20 http://cdn-www.airliners.net/photos/airliners/7/8/9/0504987.jpg?v=v20 http://cdn-www.airliners.net/photos/airliners/2/2/2/0992222.jpg?v=v20 As I started on a rather adhoc basis I didn't take any photos of the initial box contents (can take them of what is left if anyone wants) and the a few of the WIP photos are a little random but I'll show what has been done so far. Big first update I guess I tired to limit the AM for the project as two 1/32 kits plus DACO decals etc..has blown my modelling budget but a few little items will be squeezed in. I also hope to do some comparisons in this build with the Hasegawa 1/32 kit I built a month back, in short this kit is miles better and overall very nice to work with! There are some downsides however that I have tried to sort out somewhat. Namely some rather crude details and matchbox type panel lines. Two big wide panel lines were filled with stretched spruce on either side, you could probably fit a scale beer can in them! Then some overall sanding to the fuselages. It wasn't as drastic as it looks, not too much to destroy any of the nice shapes (more on those vs Hasegawa kit later on) but enough to try and reduce the panel line depth. All the airbrakes and access panels were closed up ( I like them clean ), not the best fit but sorted with plasticard and super glue. The lights in the above pic fitted pretty poor too (others too around the airframe) and have required filling with superglue to get a nice scale surface. The aim was to get to the paint stage as soon as possible for the main airframe so no work on the engine/exhaust, gears etc..has been done yet. With this in mind I had the main fuselage all sorted over a weekend, Starfighters seem to build up pretty quick for sure. Before closing the fuselage I slipped in the cockpits. Both are from the box with some things added and with many little things still to be added later on. After building my Hasegawa kit I didn't really feel it necessary for a resin pit as when the largish seat is in place you just don't see much bar that and the IP panel. I wasn't sure what colour the floor should be, I have read it is black but couldn't see in on any online photos. The wings then attached. The flaps needed a little plastic shim for correct spacing and also a little contouring was needed at the fuselage-flap junction for a better shape. After some good layers of Tamiya primer I got the surface details like so. I'm happy with them now, some are still a little deep and sloppy but life's too short to fill and rescribe two 1/32 kits! The lights will have to be polished back up. They are just coloured plastic in real life so I'll use Tamiya clears for the final colours. Next I moved back to the cockpit. Both aircraft are MFG2 birds that had the chaff/flare system upgrade in the early eighties so the control panel box was placed on the rear bulkhead. Other bits and bobs added the the front and rear too. The gap between the etch canopy sills will be covered by the Brassin seat structure and after test fitting all looks pretty neat when done. And last night sprayed the initial colours on ready to start painting up. When washing the models some water managed to get into the cockpit and lifted some paint, so touch ups will be needed . Canopy interiors sprayed and the struts on the front frame in progress. One canopy will definitely be open and one probably closed for contrast between the two. I really hate masking canopies! Only have to do the rubber seals and then the main frames now I originally planned on using the kit seats then adding some detail, it comes like this (missing the rather naff supplied PE pelts) Not the most ideal in 1:32 scale plus it isn't correct for a later German airframe, it should look like this with the different head box: http://www.jetartaviation.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/ejection-seats/f-104-starfighter-gq7a.jpg I began modifying it to look more like it should but ended up with something roughly 1/40 scale that looks a bit dodgy really when inside the pit. I decided to quit whilst behind and get the Eduard Brassin seats, these will also need modifying but at least they will be well detailed and the correct size. These will be done towards the end however. One airframe will have the flaps down, canopy open and quite clean and for contrast the other will be all shut up with a good compliment of FOD guards and RBF gear. This is quite a lot on a Starfighter and luckily creative models had 80% or so discounts on the nice fabric RBF tags so I grabbed two packs given how many I'll use. Think I paid a fiver for them which is a bargain in this scale it seems. And to conclude the first update here are the pair with most of the main airframes made up, I have a fews weeks off so expect some swift progress on these! Thanks for looking in and hope you enjoy some more Starfighters in this GB, wouldn't be an 80's NATO vs Warsaw Pact GB without them imho Cheers, David.
    5 points
  26. good day guys I leave you here with some pictures of my last build. A nice Dauntless from hasegawa. Build out of the box, it came with PE for the open flaps.. enjoy!
    5 points
  27. Hi is my third model of this year! Is a Hobbycraft La-7 in 1/48 scale. It represents the personnal aircraft Ace Pavel Yakovlevich Golovachew when are subscribed to 9th GVIAP. The only aftermarket i added is a resin cockpit from Legend Trademark, the rest of modifications are be build in scracht. The model was finished with acrilic paint and the weathering was realized with oil paints and inks. The figure with accompanies is the ICM. I hope it them like!!!!
    5 points
  28. Startet on the landing gear, this section is tricky.... used some cooper wire and tamiya tape to create a realistic view painted and installed and a dryfit Going on slowly Oliver
    5 points
  29. More from MNA. It's a little known fact that celebrated French pioneer airman and author Antoine de St Exupery spent time in Argentina flying mail routes set up by the French air postal service. Remarkably, one of his aircraft survives; the last Latecoere 25 left. An example of the pretty Fiat G.46 trainer, one of 70 operated by the Fuerza Aerea Argentina. The Max Holste Broussard is known as the French Beaver, such are the characteristics of the type, yet it gets little exposure outside of those nations that operate it, primarily in Africa, South America and Asia, where its rugged nature is best exploited. Another French import, the Morane Saulnier MS.502 Criquet, (Locust, not cricket) based on the Fieseler Storch, this one in civilian markings. The big S-61R served with the FAA for 18 years before retirement to the museum in 2002. Outside is a line up of aircraft that are desperately in need of shelter, but like most museums, space and resources are at a premium. One of the most significant is Avro Lincoln B-004, one of only three complete and intact examples of Avro's Lancaster successor in the world; another in Argentina and the third at the RAF Museum, Cosford. Despite being all metal, the Vickers VC.1 Viking, nicknamed The Pig, is a direct descendant of the Wellington bomber, the earliest examples being fitted with geodetic wings and tailplanes. This particular aircraft was used as Juan Peron's presidential transport for a period, when he was scooting about in the Huanquero. Finally, a big Bristol in need of a good wash. I've been reliably informed that this is one of the earliest production examples and might well be one of the oldest surviving Freighters. Thanks for looking.
    5 points
  30. Hi People ! The camouflage is partially completed, in the sense that in the end will be dirtying. Now I have to redo the offset drift, which I lost and then the fumes exhaust and other details. Colors? All Guze: H303 green, the sand H27 and H301 gray. See you at the next updates byeeeeeeee Ettore
    5 points
  31. Hi everyone, These are the latest CAD shots for you from Macau. This is a little surprise we had prepared for you so we hope you approve the indulgence. This kit is a scaled down version of the 1/48 scale kit we released a few years ago but with some improvements. This model kit has the “waist” fuselage section missing from other kits and includes slide molded single piece missiles (I believe a first in this scale). Following on from the trusted AMK ethos of “Easy To Build”. Many more photos on our Facebook page.
    4 points
  32. I rarely make armour (this is my third in about 15 years of modelling) but this kit and PE combo was going cheap in China so i bought it on a whim. Eight years after starting, assembly is complete! It's the Dragon Porsche turret kit with Voyager PE set. The Zimmerit is a resin set from Cavalier Model Productions. I thought it was excellent. The barrel is from Lion Roar. That's it so far, ready for paint. I'm going for a three-colour scheme which is probably fictitious and may offend the purists! Al
    4 points
  33. Airbus Defense and Space invited the employees and friends to celebrate a family day. Great opportunity for great pictures. Have Fun! http://petesmancave.blogspot.de/2016/06/petes-mancave-news-242016.html Real Bavarian Boys are flying the beer truck!
    4 points
  34. My first 1:32 and first Kinetic kit. In general not a bad kit. Some fit issues but in the end I enjoyed.
    4 points
  35. Hi All, Here is my recently finished Boscombe Down Britannia using the excellent 26 decals set which performed faultlessly. The Roden kit went together well with just a small amount of filler around engines and a smidge on the wing roots. Usual acrylic paints used, Revell Aqua, Humbrol and Xtracrylics. Now awaiting the release from Mikromir of the Argosy! Hope you all enjoy this one! MODeller
    4 points
  36. Hi all This kit is very good. The decal of the kit is Germany Airforce version. I was replace them with the Russian airforce version. The main color is Sky Gray (Tamiya) , the camo is mixed of Dark Gull Gray (Model Master) + Euro I Gray (Academy) Enjoy and Have nice day ! Thanks for watch !
    4 points
  37. Thanks Peter, great tip. Forgotten where you've put what? Thanks Tony. It certainly has lots of guns poking out in awkward places. Thanks Rob, very kind. I have no problem with you blaming me for the paint purchase! Masking Luftwaffe camo. Ughhh. It's just me I guess, but I keep having to refer to the paint pot that I moved to the masking desk and the scheme so I could check I was masking the right colour. The straight edged camo is a pain too, not because it's straight (easy) but because it suddenly veers off for no apparent reason (hard to get a good angle). And like an irritating insect, just when you think you've got it cornered it heads under the sofa a gun. After forcing myself to do some I got this far: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr The fact that I did the right wing first is NOT a political statement. Look at that nose. Ugh. The camo comes to a point... guess where? Yep, right under the cannon. Enough moaning, get on with it... Finally done. That meant I could, finally, spray some of the BLACK green. That's not one for Tony (sorry to bring it up) but an excuse to explain why the BLACK green is, er, still greyish on these: and this I also had to thin the Model Air for the first time - must be the damned heat. Then came the best bit... removing all that tape in (roughly) the same order that it went on: Ta dah! I'm pleased that the masking came out OK, especially the damned pointy bits on top of the rear fuselage. It does look greenish too eh? Doesn't it? I'll look for problems and do some touching up, probably in the morning.
    4 points
  38. Cheers People for the great feedback So a little light scratch building on the MG mount, just to get away from PE work for a while, it was missing a few details so I set out to improve the basic kit item. A crank handle was fabricated from plastic card, rod and some carbon fibre. I need to make another locking handle yet for the top clamp. And fitted, not sure on the PE belt so I reserve the right to swap it out for a drum mag later on the build. It still need bending and curving a bit more to get it to drape a bit more natural. Cheers Dan
    4 points
  39. For making a 2 part mould see: https://www.sylmasta.com/acatalog/Instructions-for-Mould-Making---Casting-1.html For a single part mould what I do is make a 'frame' out of lego or similar. Press blu-tack or plasticine into the base of the mould to give a smooth base. Place the master on top of the plasticine (if it has a good 'sprue' you can push it into the plasticine slightly so as to hold it firm). Then fill the 'frame' around the master with RTV silicone. In order to de-aerate the silicone pour it slowly from a height of at least 1/2m. As the silicone sets it will further de-areate - bubbles will come to the surface. This is a bit long winded but should serve to explain what I mean: Sorry for the Thread Drift Steve!
    4 points
  40. 4 points
  41. Not my usual cup of tea at all but it is nice to do something completely different once in a while. May I highly recommend this lovely little resin kit from SBS. The casting is superb in both detail of masters and the minimal casting blocks and cleaning up needed, the decals are very thin and the clear resin windscreens are amazing. Filler was - like the casting blocks - minimal - apart form underneath where the thickness of the trailing edge of the wing was a fraction greater than the thickness of the wing root. I don't know if the Eduard weekend editions really can be made in a weekend but this kit certainly can and I did. The only problem I had with the whole build was I could not match the red / orange of the Danish roundels and would recommend taking the decal sheet with you next time you are going to a model shop. I don;t have a local model shop and non of my reds in stock matched and my mix is below par but other than that I really enjoyed this kit.
    4 points
  42. 23. Painting the external intakes on the fuselage. ------------------------------- 24. Added the Electro Attachments to the pod.It's starting to take shape.
    4 points
  43. A few more pics: There biggest challenge was the IP which is mounted on rods that attach to the framing of the canopy. All the markings were painted on using an assortment of paint masks. I didn't do the fasteners around the canopy framing as I was worried about the way they'd turn out. Maybe on my next one. I hope you all like it. Carl
    4 points
  44. Hi Guys, here are a few images taken at the excellent Museo Nacional Aeronautica in Buenos Aires. Firstly, the Pulqui I designed by Frenchman Emile Dewoitine was something of a disappointment owing to lacklustre performance, but it was the first gas turbine aircraft built in Latin America. I've done a walkaround of this aircraft here: warbirds Next, its intended successor, the deadly looking Pulqui II, which was designed by none other than Kurt Tank had good performance, powered by a Rolls-Royce Nene, but handling issues and political turmoil within the country sought to stymie production of the aircraft. Eventually the US offered the Fuerza Aerea Argentina F-86 Sabres at a bargain price and the Pulqui II never entered production. From the handsome to the ridiculous, another Kurt Tank masterpiece was the Huanquero twin engine bomber, reconnaissance, transport trainer. Apparently President Juan Peron often travelled around in the Huanquero, rather than the purpose utilised presidential aircraft. A little known rarity of Argentine design is the Instituto Aerotecnico I.Ae-22 DL, whose design was influenced by the North American NA-16, although the aircraft is entirely indigenous, even the engine, a 450hp I.Ae-16 El Gaucho 9 cylinder radial. The Guarani II will win no beauty prize, but despite only 32 production examples built, was widely used in Argentina. It was a successor to the Huanquero and was based on the earlier design; the Guarani I bearing considerable resemblance to the piston engine predecessor, but a new empennage was fitted to the Guarani II. An unmistakeable shape any student of the Luftwaffe will recognise, the Urubu glider was designed by Reimar Horten within the Instituto Aerotecnico. Only five of the two seat gliders were built, this one being the only survivor. Next the venerable Pucara, the neat twin engined ground attack aircraft that fared rather poorly through no fault of its own, I might add, during the Falklands war of 1982. This one is the very first one built and is almost identical to production examples. To the Argentine people, the Guerra de Las Malvinas was a turning point in the nation's history; faith in the military Junta dissolved altogether and sovereignty over the islands became a sore point that exists to this day. Therefore it's no wonder that there are monuments to the Malvinas dotted all over Buenos Aires, something that compilers of the likes of the Lonely Planet guides for tourists seem to overlook when expressing national characteristics - a pathological desire to see the islands back in Argentine hands. Within the MNA are five Malvinas combat veterans, all visible in the image below, from right to left, Canberra B-62 B-109, Mirage IIIEA I-011, Dagger A C-432, A-4P C-207 and A-4C C-322. Of the five combat veterans, A-4P C-207 is the most noteworthy, wearing 'kill' markings in the form of ship silhouettes, illustrating attacks made on the British warships HMS Broadsword, Brilliant and Coventry, the last of which was sunk on 25 May 1982 after attack by A-4s including C-207. On the last night of the war, Canberra B-62 B-109 was one of two sent to bomb British positions around Mount Kent and thus was the last Argentine aircraft deployed in combat during the war. Sadly, the other Canberra B-108 was shot down by a Sea Dart launched from the destroyer HMS Exeter, the last casualty of the war. Finally, Argentine Mirage IIIs played only a small role during the war, being hampered by their fuel reserves and being able to spend only 15 minutes over the islands before having to return to the main land. Nevertheless, I-011 carried out air combat sorties over the islands during the war. More to come.
    3 points
  45. Hi there! This time I release a fulcrum from Great Wall. 1990 version in GDR territory. I saw a discussion on this build here.Some of you like it,I appreciate that! Negative comments also make sense,that's ok.I have to admit a part of panel lines are over-emphasised,and the color is little different from the true one.I shall do more study next time. Thanks for your support again! Enough talk,Here is the pics,wish you enjoy it!
    3 points
  46. So, guys, after a two week break and trying to find my way, I decided to build myself a new work station. So after a couple of days in the workshop/studio, I came up with this. a worksurface to my needs and a pullout tool drawerr under the table top. So hopefully I have all at hand that I might need. So this is my new work station... I think this is going to work... Colin
    3 points
  47. I've just been having a skim through a book that I have 'Railways Around Manchester' for ideas/inspiration. I've got a couple of possible choices now, 1) a fictitious small scene in N gauge or, 2) A scene based on one of the photos in the book that shows a crew dismantling the post signal at Didsbury Station which has been replaced by lights. I could probably create that in OO scale and get it to fit within the space requirements. I will make a decision once I have shoved Mrs N up in the loft to get some kit down.
    3 points
  48. So, onwards! Here are the sprue shots- And my progress so far- Complete with tiny Richthofen The fuselage painting is NOWHERE near final, it was just to see if the pic matched up. ​ ​ Not when I'm done with it After a lot of digging, I found another pic ​ ​​ This is a very small pic I know, but you can see the unit code. N, then either 1,5,6, or 9. Richthofen himself is standing rather annoyingly in the way, but I think it is 1 or 9, as 5 is recce, 6 is Major Babekuhl. 1 is 'Großraum-Transportstaffel', if any German Britmodellers can translate this it would be great ​. and 9 is Norway Headquarters pool. Any help would be great! Thanks, Seabo14
    3 points
  49. The build has reached that point where pieces have started randomly falling off.....I suspect all the oils are the culprit, but it gave me this opportunity to show how corrosive the tyres are: The chassis in the contact area is very squishy.....I've attempted to mitigate the horror with a layer of CA (fat chance that will contain it). Rather than allow the self-destruction to continue any further I've called it a day: It is (as I'm increasingly fond of saying) what it is. PS - The floaty front left wheel has been fixed.....Another bit that randomly fell off.
    3 points
  50. Revell 1/35 T-34/76 originally an ICM mold,excellent fit of parts in general and some superb surface detailing.
    3 points
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