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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/06/16 in all areas

  1. 13 points
    I've been wanting to do this triple build for a while now and I'm glad it's complete (my fourth Spitfire triple since December!), but it may be time to go back to single builds. All three are 1/72 Spitfire V's representing 'A', 'B' and 'C' wing versions, all belonging to 303 (Polish) Sqn. The build was part of the Spitfire Group Build dedicated to the memory of Edgar Brooks, and the build thread can be found here. First up, a Spitfire VA from the 1/72 Airfix Mk I/IIA kit reperesenting K9871, RF-P, flown by Boleslaw Gladych on 8 Dec 1941, where he, alongside Mieczyslaw Adamek, protected a downed Spitfire pilot over the English Channel. K9871 was built as a Mk I, but was modified into a Mk V and assigned to 303 Sqn in late 1941. I built one of Gladych's P-47's in that STGB, and I thought it would be nice to build one of his Spitfires. I've not been able to find any photographs of this aircraft as a 303 Mk V, only as a Mk I, so I had to apply 'typical' squadron markings from that period. Next to Gladych's P-47. Next up is Spitfire VB, BL670, RF-K, from the new 1/72 KP kit. This Spitfire was assigned to S/L Wojciech Kolaczkowski, who commanded 303 Sqn from Nov 1941 until May 1942, and had his name "Wojtek" painted on the nose, as well as the name "Krysia" formed with the individual squadron letter on the fuselage. Last up is Spitfire VC, AB174, RF-Q, from the 1/72 Sword kit. This aircraft was the mount of PO Antoni Glowacki, a Battle of Britain 'ace in a day'. The individual squadron letter, 'Q' formed the word "QQWCA" on the fuselage side, apparently meaning 'cuckoo' in a transliterated Polish/English pun! All three together.
  2. 13 points
    Something WEIRD happened to me today. Like, REALLY flippin weird. So weird that "weird" should be in italics. I'm posting pictures of a COMPLETED model. Mark this day on your calendar folks, I know I will. Click the link to check out the full build. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235001750-bandai-t-70-black-leader/ 20160607-MJS_4704 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr 20160607-MJS_4705 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr 20160607-MJS_4701 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr 20160607-MJS_4697 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr 20160607-MJS_4695 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr 20160607-MJS_4714 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr 20160607-MJS_4716 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr 20160607-MJS_4706 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr Kill markings painted on using an old Verlinden scribing template as a stencil. 20160607-MJS_4724 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr Clear resin navigation lights courtesy CMK to replace the solid plastic ones that come with the kit. 20160607-MJS_4732 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr 20160607-MJS_4742 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr 20160607-MJS_4750 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr 20160607-MJS_4766 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr A cool accident in this pic. The light hits in just the right way to make the NAV lights look like they're actually lit up. 20160607-MJS_4777 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr 20160607-MJS_4799 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr 20160607-MJS_4814 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr Not enough photos? OK! Too many? Too bad cause here comes even MORE! 20160607-MJS_4821 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr 20160607-MJS_4829 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr 20160607-MJS_4830 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr 20160607-MJS_4834 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr The design for the base was inspired by Poe Dameron's helmet. 20160607-MJS_4836 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr 20160607-MJS_4841 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr 20160607-MJS_4845 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr Solid plastic barrels replaced with fine brass tube. 20160607-MJS_4843 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr 20160607-MJS_4846 by _m_sinclair, on Flickr Interesting little fact about this piece. Only about five decals were used in total and they all were on BB-8. The X-wing itself has zero decals and as a result, zero clear coats. That's a first for me. Thanks for looking! -matt
  3. 12 points
    Good day, gentlemen. Let me present you my next model.
  4. 10 points
    Been on an epic journey with this - build thread is HERE . Many thanks to BM's Canberra Fan for the generous donation of the kit; also thanks to the many people who genuinely supported and encouraged me during the build process. These are temporary RFI pics until I can get it down the club where Kallisti will work his magic! Aircraft represented is a 90 Sqn machine polished up for the 1953 Coronation celebrations at RAF Odiham. Build notes: True Details replacement props, Eduard Brassin wheels, Eduard exterior etch set, Karaya metal gun barrels, Falcon vacform transparencies for the bubble windows. Painted with Alclad (various shades) and Mr Metal Color (Stainless and Chrome Silver) for the metalwork, and mostly Xtracrylix for the other colours. Also used metal foil (kitchen and Bare-Metal) for some of the details. hope to post better pics soon. Thanks for looking! Alan EDIT: Bigger pictures added!
  5. 10 points
    G'day All This is the ancient Monogram UH-16B Albatross, surprisingly for such a widely used aircraft, this is still the only game in town as far as 1/72nd scale is concerned. Fortunately the kit is basically a good one and this one is built straight out of the box but has had the generous sprinkling of rivets removed. The decals are from an old Microscale sheet and after all this time preformed flawlessly although I have found that some of my carefully hoarded sheets disintegrate if brought anywhere near water. I first saw a mention of this kit, and in fact its manufacturer, Monogram, in an old issue of "Aeromodeller" magazine which carried what must have been one of the first articles dedicated to the then new plastic model kits. Although the editors could not see them replacing the traditional "Solid" balsa models, they found them an interesting diversion and were impressed that the Albatross featured a working retractable undercarriage and "Survivor" in a rubber dinghy to be posed along side. If you build one of these, incorporate the working under carriage feature as it doesn't detract from the model and does operate rather well. Trev. IMGP7868 by Trevor Putterill, on Flickr IMGP7871 by Trevor Putterill, on Flickr IMGP7870 by Trevor Putterill, on Flickr IMGP7869 (2) by Trevor Putterill, on Flickr
  6. 10 points
    Thank you Jaime! Small progress made: I finally put the stabilators in place, gluing them in with some Tamiya Green Cap I also found a couple of reference pics for the left vari-ramp and air intake weathering that Gene mentioned in his last post, so I could reproduce it on the model: What I did was to use a lighter mix of the base color to simulate discoloration of the specific area (by brush, sort of stippling it over), then a bit of chipping using Lifecolor Matt Natural Metal. Let's see what I still have to do: place the RBF tags, the canopies, scratch build the chocks and install the whole thing onto the base. Sounds like a bit more of work, but hopefully by the end of this week it should be done ... Comments welcome, as usual Ciao
  7. 9 points
    Hi, guys and gals. I have been looking at Britmodeller for a while now and have decided to try my hand at posting an image or three. As I have just completed my scratchbuilt Fairey Rotodyne, I thought that was a good start - hope you like it. Also, I have a request, does anyone have an I. D. Canberra they are willing to sell me? Glenn
  8. 8 points
    Here is a representation Debs honey you are a star Ascoteer sent me a set of the decs from the Airfix AOP6 lovely madame, and just what I needed From the frontal zone And from the underside night all
  9. 7 points
    Italeri rebox of the 1/48 Hasegawa Typhoon. Replaced the exhausts with resin...and used a replacement 4-bladed resin prop hub with PropBlur, other than that the rest of the kit is OOB (well the pilot donated himself from the spare box). Questions...ask away. Cheers Collin
  10. 5 points
    Here's another one of my model. I wanted to do something bigger than usual. In place of the engines were deaf wall. I removed them and put the engines of the Tu-4. I can not say that they are very copy , but it is better than it was before. Also made of two-component putty intakes on the engine. In cabin I added only seatbelts.. There's nothing much to be seen. Muzzle of defensive arms are made of brass tubes. In the model applied riveting. I wanted to make a model of worn airplane. So I did a lot of weathering (oil dots and salt dots.)
  11. 5 points
    evening folks thanks for dropping in and for your encouragement thanks Bob - I wish I did have access - I might ask Boultbee Aviation at Goodwood actually as that is pretty local. I did check the close-ups I have of a XVI at an airshow (one below) and could definately see knots (or at least bumps) both sides - am I missing something should the bumps only be on one side on an original unrestored rudder? many thanks for your kind words Kirk - with the brass sheet I mark it out with a scalpel & steel rule, hold it in a folding tool and cut it with a circular cutting disc or slitting disc in my dremel - you can get nice and close with the cut and if there is any waste you can just grind it away as you go thats a good one John! I will have to look into that as I haven't settled on an answer yet ..so, I am still working on the rudder and trying to make it look like this.. ..there seems to be some variation in the size and appearance of the rib stitching so I have been trying different things and to be honest I am not sure I have hit on the right combination yet.. ..before that though there is a lot of rib tape all over the rudder anyway, so I have been trying to unpick the order these are laid down and start setting them out as the actual rib stiching & tapes appear to be the last to be added,, ..I used tamiya tape and while I would love to have been able to get the 'pinked' edges its just not possible so I stuck with just straight cuts,, here I am also starting to break out the trim tab.. ..more and more tape added and the trim tab recess being lined.. ..now pretty much finished the foundation tape.. ..and finally to the tapes... still debating - I was on number 3, but now I see the close-ups I am not so sure..maybe number 5 is more subtle.. any thoughts? ..I will try a few more things - I might try CA blobs on a wire as well actually.. TTFN Peter
  12. 5 points
  13. 5 points
    Decals on: Next masking and then 'squiggles'. Ian.
  14. 4 points
    This is representation of Erla-built Bf 109G-14 "Black 13" from15./JG5 at Kjevik, Norway in 1945. All A.M.U.R. Reaver sets, such as spinner & airscrew, cowling and oil cooler fairing with radiator mesh were used. The plane had late-war finish with several shades of RLM76 on lower surfaces and 75/82 on top.
  15. 4 points
    Got it finished last night. Trouble free build but the cabane strut bases seemed too short for the fuselage location points. Got there in the end though. Couldn't for the life of me work out the pitot fold instruction so just stuck it on. Overall uppers Tamiya Olive green with a bit of Dark earth and Citadel Runefang steel undersides. Rigged with EZ line. Minimal weathering. Some pics a bit fuzzy as I woke up with what feels like a trapped nerve in my wrist. Result; slight tremor so no modelling today. Oh and an image of what I've been distracted with this past week; painting Devon Minnows. The wee beasties themselves. 38 of them and each one 7/8'' long.
  16. 4 points
    Greetings fellow modelers! This is the Hasegawa 1/48 F-15E converted to a TF-15B Demonstrator AF no.(71-0291). It took me almost one year to complete and used lots of aftermarket to help me during the process. Verlinden cockpit for the Revell F-15E was used and adjusted to fit this kit. Eduard Pe for interior and exterior. The most work was done one the Mk.20 Rockeye bombs, x22 times.. The AIM-9L Sidewinders are from Eduard. The front wheel strut was cut and a brass rod was inserted with a slight angle to it. Burner cans from Aires. The CFT's where treated with 0.03mm fine plastic rod to represent the sealing rubber around them. The air-brake was cut to shape and epoxy putty was used to achieve the characteristic hump at it. The Vulcan cannon was removed and epoxy putty was used to reshape the area. All antennas are made from PE frets. Angle of attack probes are from master. Flaps where cut and put in the down position. All nav lights where remade using epoxy glue and painted with clear blue and red accordingly. All the colors used are from the Gunze acrylics range. Cant remember which ones exactly at the time. Alclad II colors of various shades where used for the burner cans and its housings. And I believe that's it! I hope you will enjoy the pics and keep up modeling...!
  17. 4 points
    OK, more snaps, as promised (or is that threatened?)... 1. Wayward "scribing" filled with Perfect Plastic Putty: first use of this stuff. It might be a bit on the soft and/or brittle side for rescribing over the top of, though. Once again, despite being told exactly where to focus, the phone camera did what it wanted to do. I suspect that I was beyond the close-up focal limit, grumble grumble. The real camera's macro function has croaked completely, so I shouldn't really complain (again). Nice sharp focus on the cutting mat in the background, though 2. Perfect Plastic Putty cleaned up by sanding and scraping. Tools in background. I may end up cutting the whole door out - I haven't decided yet. that reinforced frame really does stick out, doesn't it? 30-odd scale mm? Hmmm... 3. Rather crude Seafire exhaust stubs: nothing that a little gentle coaxing with a no. 15 scalpel blade won't fix, though. And it is 1/72, after all 4. Here's a DIY snap sneakily sneaked in with much sneakiness - it's the prototype foot for my welding bench: DIY tapered nut (cut from 19 mm sq. stock, drilled and tapped M12, nut tapers bevelled with file - four sides and four corners), M12 bolt and locking nut. Whacked in with my 2 kg block hammer (very much a press fit!). This will allow adjustment for levelling the benchtop. All six little feet are finally complete, I have cleaned up the residual weld spatter from ages ago, plus the rust, and will paint the bench in the next day or so (with zinc paint). Then I will have a clearer conscience to do more concentrated work on the Seafire. That's the plan, anyway... 5. See? I've cunningly hidden my gratuitous DIY snap in amongst all the other modelling stuff - no-one will ever notice. Er... Seafire-related scribbles in my notebook; cockpit door measurements, in this instance. I think that I will be able to interpret what I've written when I eventually get around to re-doing this structure... 6. Magnifiers - an essential bit of reed-making and modelling equipment for me these days. It's a General Hardware Co., Inc. item, and my favourite magnifiers: robust, clear and sharp. Also used (and originally bought for) my metalworking activities Follow this link to my Flickr account This is the current state of affairs at the moment. More when I have got the welding bench painted and turned the right way up - and round. Slow and careful is the trick with the latter operation(s). Note to self: locate and retrieve all the special scribing tools that I have squirrelled away somewhere safe. Cheers, Alex.
  18. 4 points
    No. 198 Squadron RAF, Martragny, Normandy, August 1944. I intended to build a plane of squadron leader Yves Ezanno (Free French), I even installed a piece of fine mesh in the air intake (visible in Ezanno’s portrait photo) but then I received Air Magazine No. 66. There is an article on Italian FAFL members which attracted my attention. Typhoon MN526 was piloted by F/Sgt Franco Burattini AKA François Bonnet. He served with French Foreign Legion in Norway, he joined FAFL in Africa and he was killed in his Typhoon on August 19, 1944.... Definitely an interesting person. Airfix kit, Master cannon barrels, Tamiya paints and varnishes. Different decals from my magic box. Thank you for looking.
  19. 4 points
    Cheers Beard, Here is my latest update; RAF; I still need to find a fin flash and the MSG codes need to be extended as they are too short. RCAF; The H will be overpainted as per the real aircraft,.....I went for 2-A in the end! Cheers Tony
  20. 4 points
    7/6 update: Drive wheels and suspension dry fitted, Buttercup will be rolling shortly. Quick snap of cr*p innards. Standing Benno next to Buttercup gives a good idea of the size of this boxy "UberHun". Must have been intimidating to have one running across your freshly mowed lawn with Mg's blazing
  21. 4 points
    The best replacement for Albert is another Albert.
  22. 4 points
    As promised, more snow I'd tried the idea I had of scattering bicarb over a sprayed coat of varnish, for a dusty, windblown look, and the results weren't that great. It did look like windblown snow, but the transition between that and the existing Wilder snow was too abrupt. To get round this I've been adding layers of a slurry made from bicarb mixed with Humbrol Clear. This has also helped soften some of the texture from the Wilder paste I've used this mix before for snow, and I like the way it looks. The bicarb doesn't dissolve in the Clear and remains in suspension so, when the Clear has dried, there's still a bit of texture to the finish, but there's a much softer look to it than the Wilder paste. It does take a long time to dry though, so it's a slow process, as you can't add another layer until the previous one has set. It's also transparent when it's wet so it's hard to tell what the final effect will be like. When it is dry though, it retains a nice translucency which I think looks a little more realistic than the solid, pure white snow paste You can see the remnants of the bicarb-over-varnish experiment below. As I said, the effect was ok, but I've had to keep adding more bicarb slurry to soften the transition, and I think it will need more still. The snow looks really dirty here, but that's down to the exposure I had to use to get the detail in the snow to show up. In person it is more of an off-white than the snow paste, but in a more realistic way to my eye I will be adding small isolated patches of snow to the concrete, but I have to be a little careful as there's not that much space on the base when the X-Wing and ground equipment are in place Andy
  23. 3 points
    Hiya Folks, I found this part built old Hasegawa Zero model with parts missing tucked inside the box of another kit which I bought 2nd hand at the Cosford model show and as I`ve always fancied doing one of the captured Zero`s flown by the ATAIU-SEA. I thought that I`d give it a go. Here is the real aircraft, which is the furthest away in this photo; And here is the model. I`m not a Japanese aircraft expert by any means and it was mainly a kit bash, so please be gentle!; For the weathering I experimented with a silver pencil for the chipping,.....although I may add a bit of paint later? Cheers Tony
  24. 3 points
    Airfix Henschel Hs129B3 Tank Buster, see the build and commentary at: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235002650-henschel-tankbuster/
  25. 3 points
    Hello, The front cockpit is done now - lots of small, fiddly detail, but most will be visible through the large canopy. Fit of the sub assembly to the fuselage is generally good, but the lower instrument panel had to be hacked about a bit as it was too wide, stopping the halves closing at the front. Everything is brush-painted with Revell acrylics. Azur etch replaced the (good, but not quite as good) detail on this side wall panel, and the main instrument panel: Less than tidy lower panel reverse, shortened to help the fit, but it won't be visible. Starting on the rear cockpit which looks even more complex, with very fine resin and etch rear gun - hopefully once these stages are done things will move on more rapidly. Welcome all constructive comments, Take care, Matt
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