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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/23/2016 in all areas

  1. 23 points
    I present my A7 - K model Hobbyboss the represented aircraft serving at the Greek airbase Araxos . The model and ' was painted with the colors Gunze and represented in clean version with mounted only the pod Texas Instruments AN / AAR - 45 WOOL ( Low -Altitude Night Attack )
  2. 20 points
    This is the Italeri kit. I added some wiring and the aerial cables, but the rest is OOB. The overall yellow finish was a problem to get the finish I wanted, not sure if to leave it gloss, or matt. screenshot software screenshot on pc upload pictures free imagur image hosting free no registration free image hosting how to screenshot on windows Thanks for looking
  3. 18 points
    Hi! This is my Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IX - 1/48 Eduard finished yesterday. The model is built from Eduard production, the battery compartment has been made of foil. Enjoy! The model was built for the contest. You can watch the results and add your vote on Greenmats Club http://bit.ly/27PZ2t2
  4. 17 points
    My database shows I bought this in 2005 making it one of the older models in the stash. I started it about 2 years ago, then it went back in the box. As a result of talking to a club member about the pitfalls of the Hasegawa P-40 line, it came out again and I resolved to finish it. So here it is finished using Gunze paints and Cutting Edge Pyn Up decals for Dick Cresswell's kite. 77SQN RAAF. Darwin 1942 I found the decals, at least the roundels quite brittle, they all cracked and I really should have gone back and either masked and painted or used other decals, oh, well Eduard seatbelts and gunsights were also used as were Ultracast wheels and exhausts. All comments welcome IMG_1792 b IMG_1794 , kit tyhawk stb sideon-3 , by,
  5. 15 points
    Hi all, I've just finished Revell's 1/72 Fokker Dr.I triplane, with the Red Baron's scheme. The WIP thread is here. Some notes on the build: Started by end-March 2015 and finished on 22 May 2016 (worked on it intermittently, while working on other builds) Seat belts made out of Tamiya masking tape and electrical copper wire for the buckles Eduard's 1/72 stretchers and turnbuckles used in the rigging Rigging and control cables done with elastic fishing line Painting: Gunze acrylics Varnishes: Micro Gloss before and after decals Alclad Klear Kote Flat for finishing Weathering Dry brush of wing and tailplane ribbing and top fuselage edges with red lightened with orange Dark sludge wash, using Vallejo's acrylic brown wash (over Micro Gloss, after decal application) Vallejo's burnt umber pigments in the end Here are the pictures: 1. General views: IMAG3511 IMAG3512 IMAG3513 IMAG3514 IMAG3516 IMAG3517 IMAG3518 IMAG3519 IMAG3520 IMAG3521 IMAG3522 2. Rigging details IMAG3528 IMAG3515 IMAG3523 3. Control cable details IMAG3527 IMAG3526 IMAG3524 IMAG3525 4. Seat and cockpit details before closing the fuselage IMAG2981 IMAG2982 IMAG2986 5. With its younger cousins IMAG3529 6. Size comparison with a Bf 109 E4 IMAG3531 7. In the collection IMAG3530 I hope you liked. All comments, suggestions and criticisms are most welcome. Thanks for looking. Cheers Jaime
  6. 14 points
    Hi everyone, Just finished this beast and as many others have said it's a stunning kit, superbly engineered... in fact the fit is so good you probably could assemble it without glue! This is my first Russian aircraft build ever, I've never had any interest in building one until I saw Mikes excellent WIP on his Foxhound and just had to buy and build one... thanks Mike!!! Painted with a mixture of Tamiya, Alclads and Akan paints, although I couldn't find the Akan grey anywhere for the main colour so I used Tamiya XF-83 RAF medium sea grey which I think looks a pretty good match. Weathered with pastel chalks and an oil wash for the panel lines, the only additions I made were decal dials on the instrument panels and Tamiya tape seat belts. Thanks for looking, as always comments and criticism welcomed. gazza l
  7. 11 points
    Hello everyone. I've been sorting out old kits to record them for my website before they fall apart. I unearthed these two, built about ten years ago for a series of Silver Wing models I completed. They're in pretty good shape, the TM two seater a simple conversion by tilting back the wings, cutting and detailing a second cockpit, adding new panels from thin sheets of plasticard and a new tail. I can't remember what paints I used, probably a combination of Halfords BMW Silver spray and Alclad. The decals for the TM came from the kit and spares box, whilst the 29 Sqn markings for the single seater were off a very nice RAFDec sheet. Rigged with fishing line darkened with a sharpie. Probably one of my favourite Airfix kits of all time, it still makes into a great model. Haris
  8. 9 points
    Here we go with WE progress report; not much time for modelling, actually, because I had to take care of my yard, plus had dinner with friends on Saturday Anyway: exhausts glued in place I started working on a base for the kit; Cam Ranh AFB ground was mainly covered with aluminium planking, of which I wasn't able to gather any detail as far as sizes are concerned. So I went by the pics Gene supplied and used eyeballing, to cut out some cardboard stripes and glue them on a wooden base: I then sprayed some Tamiya Gloss Aluminium from a rattle can on it then went along the panel lines with very thinned Tamiya Flat black, airbrushed, adding also some random stains The main "feature" of Cam Ranh Bay was ... sand - sand all over the place, so I airbrushed some Lifecolor Sand Yellow I've then sprayed a coat of flat clear (from a rattle can I had laying around, not exactly modelling stuff) and finally went over the black spots with a sand yellow drybrush Contrast with the dark areas looks stark under certain lighting conditions, I'll probably have to tone them down a bit more; and I think I should also add some detail painting, because this to me seems just like painted cardboard ... What do you guys think? A bit more done on Little Gene and Little Jerry too: Base color is a mix of Lifecolor Light Blue and Light Grey; highlights done using a lighter mix, shadows using a darker one. Then dark washes and a light grey drybrush. Question for Gene: did you use to wear gloves when flying? What color were they? Thanks in advance That's it for the day, comments welcome Ciao
  9. 8 points
    This is my OOB build on a Trumpeter kit one and a half years ago. Plese follow the link for more pictures: https://www.facebook.com/liu.andy.3701/media_set?set=a.622234411258761.1073741829.100004166226490&type=3 I hope you like it. Cheers
  10. 8 points
    This is my recent OOB build, a Trumpeter kit in average quality. Please follow the link for more pictures: https://www.facebook.com/liu.andy.3701 Hope you all enjoy it. Cheers
  11. 8 points
    Hi! Just finished this Myrsky (finnish for Storm). It was the only finnish-built fighter to serve during WWII. I painted the kit using Gunze colors. Any comments appreciated
  12. 8 points
    Today I have applied a panel line wash and then started on the final assembly stages, adding the rocket boosters and wheels: I had painted the guns as a single length of tube to be separated into 3mm lengths when required just prior to assembly: I like how my pitot tubes are looking: Finally the guns were installed and the errant fin put back: They are all ready for a coat of matt varnish in the morning, I am trying the Hobby Color varnish for the first time to see if its any better than Vallejo. Bye for now, Nigel
  13. 7 points
    Just few starting pics of the 1/350 Intrepid with cutaway. I'll add new pics as soon as available. Feel free to ask any question Angelo
  14. 7 points
    Tomorrow at Newark Air Museum there is a V Bomber tribute event. As part of a display in have built the three bombers, in flight. As I'm waiting on glue to dry, this is the only one in a fit state to be photographed. It's the ubiquitous Revell/Matchbox kit, converted to B2 with a Freightdog conversion kit. Flightpath Resin intakes replaced the kit's ones, which are painfully inaccurate. Airdecal decals for 139 Sqn have been used. Overall, a horrible experience, which I never intend to repeat.... On to the pictures.
  15. 7 points
    Thanks Guy and Bob Bob, here's a cheeky little trick for you... First, take some squares or strips of kitchen foil and boil them with eggshells (yep, eggshells!) for about 5-10 mins: Instant heat stained metal! Next, cut out some patches and make patterns for the parts you want to apply heat effects. Because it's foil, you can shape it around the part and then cut to size. Then brush some PVA glue to cover the back of the foil and apply to your model: I burnish it down with a moistened cotton bud, then rub it down with the dry end of the cotton bud once the glue starts to stick. Later you can rub it down with a microfibre cloth so the detail pops out. Leave it to dry overnight, and job done! Alan
  16. 7 points
    Spitfire Mk XIII prototype The Spitfire XIII was a low-level PR plane. Only 26 were produced, all conversions of MkI, MkII or MkV, with three cameras (two vertical and one oblique), Merlin 32 and, as it needed some form of self-defence, 4 .303 Brownings in the outer positions. The prototype, a conversion of a Mk1, had eight .303. I used the Airfix MkI, the conversion parts (the oil cooler and fish-tail exhausts) were from the MkI (early)/ Mk II boxing. The camouflage was brush painted, using Humbrol enamels for the Medium Sea Grey/ Dark Green topside and a home made mix for the PRU Mauve (thanks to Troy Smith for the suggested mix). The decals were from Xtradecal and Ventura. If you're interested, here's a link to the WiP: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235001331-spitfire-mkxiii/
  17. 7 points
    A little progress: - fuel cans - tools - fire extinguisher base - wheels - more weathering
  18. 6 points
    Hi Pals, I finally finished the kit, to my taste. Not exactly as would have imagined that over, but I like the end result. I tried some new methods for me as the most severe pigmented and do some snow. I also decided to add at the end some leaves and dried herbs, to see what they looked like, and ... there they stayed. The kit is OOB except for the slogan in Cyrillic As a final point, I have taken pictures with a SLR camera, which is, I think, the perfect complement to a finished work, for good or ill. Thanks for commenting and watch, and the support and good wishes in the thread. Included link to WIP, and vice versa the RIP To WIP: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235001060-white-hunter-red-heart-isu-152-zvezda-135/ Some shots on detail.... Cheers to all
  19. 6 points
    Good afternoon I would like to take part in this Gb with the Zvezda Yak 3 Flown By Capt Marcel Albert with the Regiment Normandie Niemen in 1945 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marcel_Albert Box art The sprues Clear parts and decals sheet Patrice
  20. 6 points
    This turns out to be as much a tour of my reworked patio as the Aeroflot airliner. Not only is the photo lab patio changed around, so I lost where I used to take pics, but my brother bestowed a new camera on me recently. I need to break down and read the instructions - the thing has so many buttons on it, one can't even pick it up without pushing two or three of them and setting off all sorts events. ( I'm a bit of a Luddite I'm afraid ). So besides some rebuilt fencing and iffy masonry, may I also present the Aeroflot Il-62, 1980 Moscow Olympics official carrier. The Zvezda kit is just a delight to work with, and the decals were one of the new Liveries Unlimited sheets. Great detail on the sheet, but something odd with the glue used, The decals would form an immediate and immovable bond with the first thing they touched, so a lot of floating off the backing and, rinsing for want of a better word, saw things right. Cockpit windows from Authentic Airliner Decals. Really love this new 3D look for realism. . . . . . and the 'with something else' shot - her stablemate, my other Zvezda Il-62. The Il-62s operated by Air India did not look exactly like this - but they should have. Thanks for taking a look, Cheers, Mike
  21. 6 points
    Here is my latest build... and sadly the first finished build of 2016, but the year isn't over yet. No complaints with the kit, it's just Tamiya's Jug. I used Eduard placards, TD wheels, Aeromaster decals, and a quick boost seat. Colors are OD over Neutral gray with medium sea gray camo on top. It's a scheme that's been done before, but I like how much color it has. Brewer took the pictures for me, thanks!! Thanks!
  22. 6 points
    Thanks to everyone who commented, very much appreciate your kind words. Here's a quick summary under natural light: Masks off, you can still see some seam along the aft edge. Never mind. I'm so pleased with how this came out. Everything now sealed with Klear, next job is the contrasting panels and heat-discoloured engine parts. Unfortunately, something's come loose in the cockpit, I can hear it rattling around. I'm guessing it's part of the aft compartment (probably the desk table) so it'll hopefully stay hidden from view! Al
  23. 6 points
    Cheers guys, this may be a bit of a challenge for me, both to achieve results that I can live with and to remain motivated.....Fortunately there are a couple of new or imminent releases that will help on both fronts: A pair of these should be with me fairly soon. Next month I shall mostly be ordering (four of) these: So I think you can confidently expect to see a Pz.II Ausf L Luchs here before terribly long.....However in the mean time, this: Off now to sweep a layer of dust (and brutally hacked up IJA autogyro pilot figures) off my desk and get some fresh plastic out.
  24. 5 points
    Hello,Friends - Having enjoyed the build experience of 'Voodoo',I'm making this subject my second WIP..She will be finished in ADC Grey in ANG Markings.(Unit to be decided) I'll fit home-made intake blanks and a needle will replace the plastic pitot but the rest is OOB.I look forward to this build and hope you and I will enjoy.The 'dry-fit' gives me an insight of the task ahead and I'm looking forward to it. All the very best,Paul.
  25. 5 points
    Hi all, the next project on the bench is a commission build, it is for the new release Airfix Mosquito. I have the original release in the stash so while I had a chance I compared them to see if there was any difference. From what I can see they are the same with just different decals options, the new release includes decals for the IP gauges which is a really nice touch. The first release allows you to do a specific night fighter but those parts are included in the new one as well. I have worked out it should take around ten weeks to build, it will be a strictly OOB build with just one after market addition and that is the RB Productions Sutton Q Harness. I could of used the figures in the kit but they never look right to me. I downloaded the new Tamiya Mosquito Manual as I use Tamiya Acrylics and it made it easier to get the right colours. The only exception to this thus far is the cockpit green, Tamiya recommend XF-71 but this looks to dark. I did a bit of research and found that the older 1/48 kits had a mixture of the following to make up the green, XF-5:1, XF-65:1 and XF-21:3. I mixed up a test batch and it looks spot on and a fair bit lighter than XF-71. As normal I have started with the cockpit, I have applied a coule of washes and the seat is dry brushed a little. The same for the seat. Taking shape. The IP was quite simple and made better by the new decals. Cockpit complete for the most part, there are other parts to add but these cant be done until the wing is on as that provides the rear bulkhead for the cockpit. It has surprised me just how long it took to get this far, the Airfix kits have seriously thick sprue joins so each part once clipped needed a little bit more effort to clean up than usual. With that done I mounted the various parts to the side walls, I managed to find a suitable decal for the compass in the spares box. Test fit. Tail and fuselage bulkheads. Lastly for this week was the Sutton Q harnesses. Very fiddly and time consuming but I think they will finish of the cockpit nicely, I just need to join all the parts together. That is it for now. Regards Danny Attree www.modelmasteruk.com
  26. 5 points
    While I wait for the local hobby shop to get in my preferred Gunze Sangyo paints so that I can continue with my F-16s for the Cold War GB, I thought I'd do a tanky thing. I had planned to do the 1/72th Tamiya Sturmovik for this GB, but I'm a bit aeroplaned out right at the moment. I have here the CyberHobby JSU-152 '3 in 1' box, with a bonus set of Red Army figures. This one was in my stash cull box, but not as a serious contender - if someone had bought it at the last swap meet, no worries, but it didn't have to go. Therefore, seeing as I's still got it, it'll be built. All reviews tell me that this is a nice kit, the only significant flaw (according to Cookie Sewell, whose opinion I respect) being the too-small road wheels, which can be mostly fixed by the addition of plastic strip to bulk them up a bit. That will be the first order of business, then we'll proceed from there. There's a choice of 3 variants here, the Big Mother JSU-152 with the 152mm howitzer, the leaner (but not much lighter) JSU-122 with the 122 mm AT gun, or the JSU-122S (the sports model ) with a different version of the 122mm gun. I'm going to do the 152mm version because, why not! Kit comes with Magic Tracks, which are apparently not too painful to assemble, and it looks pretty nice - Dragon do good work as a rule. Blah blah history, I won't bore you with it, those who already know most likely know it better than I do (not difficult), those who don't but want to can look it up (lots of stuffs out there, including videos on YouTube), the ones who don't care either way... don't care. It was a WW2 AFV, with a big gun, and it played a major part in the Russians' successes against the Germans during the war in the East and on into Berlin. The 152mm version was especially useful in the house to house fighting that was engaged in during the final days, where its short barrel was better than the much longer barrels of the 122mm variants, which often had problems getting around city corners. The tentative plan is to do it as a vehicle mid-way through having its winter whitewash applied, stuck to a base with a couple of figures in the process of attempting to hide 47t of stronk Russian tenk with old brooms and a thin coat of watery paint... The box art option gives me the whitewash over green that I want, and Mr Dragon tells me that it's a vehicle from the 384th Heavy Artillery SP Gun Regiment, Czenstochova, Poland, 1945. On with the pix. Box. Instructions and decals. Plastic bits. No detail closeups, it's a plastic tank and I'm sure we're all familiar with what that looks like. And just for interest, the 122S gun (left) vs the 152mm howitzer, showing the length difference. Well, that's me away again, building photos as they happen!
  27. 5 points
    This is my attempt at Mark1s excellent Wessex. I built this for the helicopter GB. I added Brengun's PE etch set for some extra detail, although one night the PE fairies stole one of the wipers. In the end they were so small I remove the other. Chin whiskers are from a paintbrush & the rigging is Lycra thread. Painted in Humbrol 69 from a rattle can. Any mistakes are all mine. Please enjoy the following, it was a pleasure to build & all in amazing 1/144. C&C's welcomed
  28. 5 points
    Gentlemen, Frankly spoken, Sabres are my favourite jet aircraft with a particularly soft spot for the Sabre Dog variant. Accordingly, it was more than a happy event when both Monogram/ProModeler and Revell of Germany released a new-tool F-86D in 2001. Monogram released the earlier "round tail" version and Revell the later version featuring a distinctive parabrake housing introduced with the F-86D-45. 53-1001 in its 1956 livery when being deployed to Yuma AB for live fire training. "Texas Terror" was the personal mount of Col. Grover Wilcox. Later in 1956 53-1001 was converted to an F-86L. The kit offers a wealth of finely recessed surface details and overall fit is outstanding, safeguarding an enjoyable build right out of the box. Nevertheless, I replaced the kit's cockpit with a Black Box office. IP and IP coaming came from an Eduard PE set. The decals came from an Eagle Strike sheet. Item #48069. In order to replicate the natural metal finish, I used three different shades of Alclad II: Duraluminium, Airframe Aluminium and Semi Matte Aluminium. In order to highlight individual panels and joints I used Gunze Smoke. The model was finished with a final coat of satin varnish "à la maison" consisting of Polly Scale flat varnish, TAMIYA X-20A thinner plus a whiff of Future floor finish at a (by approximation) 60:35:5 ratio. Having another dozen of these kits in my stash, definitely not the last Sabre Dog taking off from my workbench. Thanks for looking! Cheers, Erik
  29. 5 points
    ICM Model plus some goods and scratch to Cavalier. Aztec decals. Camo - 100-hour war between Salvador and Honduras on the border areas, also known thanks to Ryszard Kapuściński as the Football War. Aircraft on both sides remember IWW. Often the conflict is referred to the last battle of piston aircraft. El Salvador gained Cavaliers to quickly and from what I read it flew them American mercenaries. On delivery all had wingtip tanks , in the operation have been removed to improve maneuverability. I invite you.
  30. 5 points
    Thanks Alex - grau, grun, perhaps they don't translate well to Spanish? And it looks like Humbrol have a similar problem? Transfers on the bottom (fnaar fnaar): Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr The Revell kit I built before had extra decals for the speed brakes which were a nightmare - no problem with these!
  31. 5 points
    Update 23 May I didn't manage to get the pictures I hoped for yesterday but here they are now;- I have tried to take the pictures in different lighting conditions, from bright sunlight to cloudy to show the way the pink reacts. The disc on the last photo at 2 o-clock to the fuselage roundel represents a hatch behind the oblique camera seen on some PR 1 Gs. That's it for now, more photos when I have finished the decals and sprayed on the matt varnish. In the meanwhile I will continue with the prop, exhausts and undercarriage, and who knows I might even finish this GB. Comments and suggestions welcome. John
  32. 5 points
    Hi Steve. Yes the weights or metal hulls do give these 1/48 kits a bit more presence, if you know what I mean. They tend to sit better on any scenic grasses I use. Yeah I've been looking forward to this GB and tried to time the other GB builds to give me chance to start these straight off! I hadn't realised they were the early and late versions until fairly recently - when I came to wash them in warm soapy water!! Yesterday I got some more done but struggled to upload the photos until today. First off - photos of some painting done - I chose to do a base coat of Humbrol 102 - Matt Army Green with a wash of Gunship Grey - lower hull: Wheels: While waiting for the above paints to dry I attached the remaining PE brackets and bolt heads onto the spare tracks: Once the grey wash was dry I applied some targeted washes of Revell's Antracite. Once this was dry I did some dry-brushing with a lightened version of the Army Green which I added a touch of matt yellow to - hull: Running gear: I still intend to do quite a bit more weathering to all these parts before I assemble them. Comments and suggestions welcome. Kind regards, Stix
  33. 5 points
    And we're away. I have declined to post sprue shots as there are plenty of them freely available on t'internet. Now, anyone who has built or even seen either the Blenheim Mk.I or Mk.IV kit will know that with the exception of the forward fuselage it is the same model. An obvious statement as the same was true with the real thing, but if you don't know... As such, Airfix start the build with the wings -using their usual method of sandwiching separate spars between the upper and lower wing halves- and then attach it to the rear fuselage. The first job was to get some interior green onto the relevant parts: Blenheim 03 by Martin Schofield, on Flickr To make the wheel wells look a bit better, some Flory Models dark dirt wash and a drybrush with silver brings out the detail. I'm ignoring the ejector pin marks in the middle of it, and I hope you will too. Blenheim 04 by Martin Schofield, on Flickr The IPMS article suggests attaching the undercarriage before the wings are closed up. I decided against that, but after closing the wings I think I may have wished I had, as I think that there will be some swearing when the time comes. Blenheim 05 by Martin Schofield, on Flickr Blenheim 06 by Martin Schofield, on Flickr I have to say that so far the fit has been superb, with a little bit of filler here and there. It will of course be interesting to see what happens once the forward and rear fuselages are brought together. And speaking of the rear fuselage, with the wings sorted it was on to that. A lot of dry fitting is recommended here, and as warned in the IPMS article it fits perfectly onto the wing until the rear bulkhead is inserted. Blenheim 07 by Martin Schofield, on Flickr Some sanding of the bulkhead was necessary to allow the fuselage to sit properly, but some filling and also cleaning of the join at the trailing edge was still required. However, so far it has been trouble free and progressing swiftly. With attention turning now to the forward fuselage, I fully suspect that pace will slow up now. Blenheim 08 by Martin Schofield, on Flickr
  34. 5 points
    Another Lightning!!!!! This one I built fairly recently, About three weeks ago. Its the Sword 1/72nd kit and decals. I am abit disappointed with the decals mainly due to the oversized bars flanking the roundels! I only noticed the error after they went on. Hopefully I'll find proper sized ones and replace them on the model. Also I reckon the blue of the roundels a bit too bright. I opted for XS452 as it was one of the Lightnings I had fun clambering over it in 1968 at RAF Coltishall while on ATC camp that year. We were also allowed to sit in one of the first four Saudi two seaters! At the time I was acqauinted with '452, it did not carry the Firestreak tally on the fin but I used the kit decals regardless.
  35. 5 points
    I've just read that RAF Spitfires never operationally used the wooden lance spinners connected by putty like blobs. Well, that's OK because of the controversy about what color to paint them! Unfortunately, the actual spinners may be an even more fraught affair. I have good reference pics for the B and C, and so can choose the prop based on them without knowing what they're called, but in order to write this post I had to do some research in order to figure out what to call them! The C has what I think is a DeHaviland prop and spinner just like the MK I. The Sword kit includes a prop and spinner that almost identically matches the Airfix Mk I prop and spinner, so I will use that one for the VC, and the Airfix one for the VA. So far so good. The VB has the wide bladed prop with the longer spinner that I believe is the Rotol prop. Both the Sword and KP kits include one of these and so I plan to build them both, and choose the one that looks and fits best. Of course, all of that assumes that I'll remember which is which. In a fit of logic, I've marked the inside of the Sword spinners. I just hope that I remember what that logic was when the time comes for assembly. Lifecolor Medium Sea grey applied to the undersides. I didn't do as well with the seam resulting from splitting the KP wing as I thought, so it is relegated to the back of the picture, and will not be displayed upside down.
  36. 5 points
    evening folks Many thanks for dropping in ... I just do my thing, and I am really glad you like it.. I have been doing a little bit on the Spit - I want to get some of the sidewall laid out so I can start working out how to build it up into a module to slot into the cockpit section I cut out of the airframe.. ..I needed to finish the U/C control so used maskol (a rubber like masking fluid - very useful) to cover various bits as I sprayed a couple of black shades.. taking off the first mask.. ..and then things like the handle and connectors.. ..I added some of our airscale placards - I do have one on the 1/24 set that says 'Chassis' but I think it is too small so might look at other options as I also need an 'Up' and 'Down' in fairly large letters too.. ..because much of the base construction was in nickel silver etch rather than brass, it weathers really well - I am toying with changing all my new 1/24 brass panels to nickel silver too as I think it is a much better medium? ..I had already fitted the mounting lugs to the sidewall so started to dry fit what goes where.. ..and this little section of cockpit is starting to take shape... ..need to think about the many layers & plumbing of all the parts as a whole so I don't tie myself in a knot as there is a lot of detail to go... TTFN Peter
  37. 4 points
    Thanks for letting me join in, albeit a bit late in the day.... My effort will be a 1/72nd scale T8, mots likely in LACG and Dayglo from FRADU in the early 80's..maybe? The Hunter twin stickers haven't been well served in terms of plastic kits...apart from Matchboxes old effort. There has been a few conversion sets, mostly aimed at the old Airfix or even Frog kit, and more recently for the super-duper Revell kits. We have also had a few resin kits, an early issue being the old Skybird 86 kit, and more recently the Pro-Resin kit, which I'm using here. I bought the "export" version T66/T66A/T66B/T68 in error! This version had the twin Aden pods and a series 200 rear end, so for a T8 or T7 both areas needed modifying,..... The kit itself is nicely tooled...the parts are VERY similar to the Revell kit.....In fact they are identical! I willbe using an Aeroclub undercarriage set though...I don't trust resin undercarriages! Nice decal sheet too......
  38. 4 points
    Hi fellow modellers! Iwould like to introduce you my recently completed Cessna A-37B Dragonfly. This is a simple and straightforward kit to build. It has some fitting problems, but that´s fine. I added some Eduard PE to add a nice touch on the details. The only problem with this kit are the decals.... the worst i have ever used. i tried to improve them by painting over the silvering they left. I hope you like it and every comment is welcomed! Best regards form Uruguay. Ignacio
  39. 4 points
    Hi all. I want to show one of his last works. T-35. Сolors painted AK sets for modulation of Soviet tanks.
  40. 4 points
    Star Destroyer Kuat Imperial Class Bandai Box Scale (1/14,500) Here's the SD, after a rather speedy 4 day build. Lovely kit, albeit rather on the small side (11cm long). It's sitting on the supplied stand for now, but I'll make something more presentable for it in the future. You can find the brief wip here Thanks for looking Andy
  41. 4 points
    Technically this is not 100% done given I still need to add the photoetched seatbelts, the mirrors and the navigation lights. But I won't be able to get back to it for a couple weeks (deep into finishing up an Eagle Transporter right now for a convention), so I felt it was decent enough to post it as is. I took on this project as a quickie build to get my modeling mojo back. Lately I didn't feel like working on much of anything as the long projects just seemed to get longer with not much reward to show for it. I also recently picked up Trumpeter's NASA T-38C kit and while it is a good kit, it still needed some modifications and I didn't feel comfortable with doing the work just yet. What I needed was an out of the box build. So, I ended up with this to help my creativity and help me get a handle on what was needed for when I tackle the NASA T-38N I want to build later. I know, the Wolfpack kit is better. But this one fit together very well and looks good. The canopies are the biggest issue, but their shape problems aren't as noticeable with the canopies open all things considered. The rest of the model captures the classic T-38 lines rather nicely and I am more than happy with the results. Tamiya Fine White primer was used and over that I sprayed on Gunze Mr Base White 1000 as a base coat. Before adding the gloss coat of Tamiya Pure White spray TS-26, I used a mechanical pencil to draw on the panel lines and a Sakura Pigma Micron black pen with a .005 tip to accent the control surface splits as a form of pre-shading. It worked reasonably well as you can see it far away, but it is visible up close. The markings I used came from SuperScale sheet 48-905 and I selected this scheme because my local club was having a SAC contest at the next meeting. I finished it for the meeting and it took first place. T-38s were used by the 9th SRW as both proficiency trainers and chase planes and they looked good in the yellow striped livery they wore in the late 1980s. But, the decal sheet I used had some problems as the colors weren't quite right for the yellow, the stripe shape was off and even the USAF titles and national insignias weren't right. So I ended up having to use some proper lettering from other sheets. The national insignias came from a Testors F-5A kit. The decal instructions also had some errors, meaning I had to really scramble for references (which are surprisingly few for these specific planes). But I think I pulled it off. All the markings went down just fine with Microsol. Even the candy stripe decal on the pitot tube isn't quite right as it is too skinny. But, live and learn for next time. One thing I am very happy with though is the off-white coloring of the windscreen border. I know, it should be inside, not outside. But, application of a little 0.7 mm Aizu tape (same as Tamiya, just cut into finer widths) represented it nicely. I brushed on a little thin white glue to keep it from curling up with age. I was going to paint it in a pale tan coloring, but the yellow coloring of the tape looked close enough and I kept it as is. Now I'm on a T-38/ F-5 kick, so expect a few more builds of Northrop's nimble birds in the not too distant future, starting with a NASA T-38 or two.
  42. 4 points
    I thought it about time I cleared some part finished/built models from dusty boxes and shelves in my shed. To start with this one: AZUR kit to 1/72nd. Finished as G-ADLT mid 1930's. Sold to France as F-AQAC and then to Spain As R-E (as in kit decals) in use as courier aircraft between Catalonia and the North front Spanish Civil War. I opted to complete it as the British civil reg example and used Humbrol Brunswick green and some silver form another brand. I originally built the kit way back,'X' amount of years ago and stopped when I could not find suitable civvy reg lettering in decal form. So today I found white letters from a BEA Vanguard decal set to 1/144 scale that were just right but not in silver but it looks fine as is. I also added the exhausts from fine plastic rod to replace the very delicate resin ones from the kit that are long gone. During the build I recall deciding on depicting the open hatch. The support for the cabin top and position of the door is purely how I think it was. Whatever the arrangement, I am happy with it now its done. Enjoy: All canopy frames depicted with silver decal stripes. And all done this afternoon. Incidentally, the cheat lines along fuselage and rudder and the silver disc are kit decals. The wing reg lettering are still needed but am unable to source any in green to match the fuselage as was the norm back in the 30's (More part built finishers to come....)
  43. 4 points
    Decals are on. Although Cotem hasn't been in touch I went ahead and modified and combined Printscale's decals for Halifax LV937 "Expensive Babe" and Halifax MZ913 "Jane" into an approximation of what HX333's nose art might have looked liked, based on his earlier description in this thread. The Printscale decals are gorgeous but they were the most difficult I ever worked with. The carrier film is very thin and the decal for "Jane" crumpled up as soon as I tried to slide it from its backing paper onto the model. Wrestled with it for about 15 minutes trying to unfold it almost to no avail. In the end, the first four letters were legible again but the final letter E had completely folded up on itself. I ended up carefully painting over it with some Vallejo off white and I think it looks acceptable now. The code letters and serial number are from an Xtradecal generic sheet. National insignia and stencil data from the kit decal sheet. I did modify the J; the photos of the crash landed aircraft appear to show a round font for the J; the J supplied on the decal sheet is squared off. I used an "I" for the top half and half of a top half of an 8 for the lower bit of the letter. I had a go at fixing the shape of the kit propellers. Original item on the left, modified item on the right. Not perfect, but it'll do. I finished all the props, going slightly overboard with the weathering although it doesn't look quite as heavy in real life (rather than in the photo). The next steps will include putting the model together, weathering and finishing. Thanks for looking!
  44. 4 points
    There's quite a lot of tracks and wheels in there. They've also included pretty much all the parts for all versions in the box, so there's quite a bit of redundancy. I've done a bit of judicious fiddling with the gun and it's better. Worst case scenario is I use the 20mm and backdate it into a II instead of the IIa. Here's a size comparison pic with an old Matchbox PzKpfw II, its German equivalent. The hull top and turret aren't glued at this point as I still have the nightmare running gear to deal with, but I'm making progress.
  45. 4 points
    thanks guys... Well I didn’t quite have the day off but I did managed to get some work done. To get myself in the mood I worked on some of the smaller bits of the build. The nose gear doors were way too thick so they had to be thinned down before the PE detail bits could be added. I wish someone did a resin update for this and the main gear, would have made life so much easier! Next I worked on the second set of drop tanks, they needed new tail fins, these were made of brass sheet. Forgot to take a photo of these! Plus I also worked on the RATO pods……and forgot to take photos of those as well! Well I finally finished off what I had to do with the cockpit of the second build and closed it up. Once that was sorted I attached the wings, though they didn’t quite go on as simply as the first set. Again I used small spots of super glue to help hold everything in the right position. And I forgot to take photos of all this…..so here is a photo of a kitten! Once this was all dried I fitted the tail unit, this time I used pins right through from the bottom. This provided a much better way of securing the tail fin assembly. Whilst this was all drying I started to sort out the tail unit of the first build. I thinned out the plastic around the tail pipe plus built a shroud for the brake chute out of brass sheet. This is a noticeable addition on these aircraft which seems to be missing from most builds! They do look good together, but I would recommend that anyone building one of these models invest in the resin cockpit over the Eduard PE one. The PE one is actually really poor and not very accurate at all plus it’s not really worth all the effort to fix and sort out. It sort of looks ok if you have the canopy closed, but otherwise you really do have to go with the resin one, it’s so much easier to fit and looks amazing, plus it’s cheaper! Tomorrow…..I do some filler work to #1 and on #2 tidy up all the filler work and stuff….or I may work on some of the other stuff, I’d like to get the U/C finished so I may work on that.
  46. 4 points
    Thanks Stix and Rob! The CMR spinner is nicely molded while the Brigade required some clean up and I punched out a backing disk from plasticard as it was a bit shorter than the CMR. Sorry for the picture quality. Step 1 for the black base technique on the CMR XII was a patchy coat of Tamiya Medium Sea grey. PIC LOST TO PHOTOBUCKET And then blended with a thinned and lightened coat of Lifecolor MSG. I may have wiped out the effect too much with the final coat, but I just wanted something to break up the solid underside color And here is the Sword painted 'conventionally'. It's actually multi-tone as well, but it's so subtle that the camera didn't really pick it up. Suggestions welcome.
  47. 4 points
    Thanks Matt. Me too, or at least eager to get it wrapped up. Too many other things ready to be started I've weathered up the generator thingy and the steps. I added the aforementioned Imperial logo, which was chipped then faded a little. I think it adds a bit to the story of the scene. There are still some areas that need extra work. The silver cap on the tanks had only just been painted when I took the shots, so still needs a wash added, and some of the instruments on the end panel (not seen on this shot) need picking out This is a rough layout of how it will all sit on the base. I might still twist the orientation of the base plate a little, but I don't want the X-Wing to be turned so far that it's corner on to the frame. I'll make up the revetment wall next, and see how it looks with that in place Andy
  48. 4 points
    Seafire F.XVII 714 NAS, Air Warfare School, St Merryn, England 1947 Airfix 1:48, built OOB WIP here Many thanks to Col and Giorgio for hosting this Group Build - so glad I could take part.
  49. 4 points
    Hey hey, we have a result! This was after the first two coats of Alclad - I used Airframe Aluminium (darker shade) and Polished Aluminium. You can see how the uneven primer coat comes out in the finish. The even parts of the airframe have come out lovely. A lot of the spoiled paint is now hidden under this coat of Mr Metal Color Stainless, used for the darker, dull aluminium of the main spar area. The underside came out very well indeed. So here are the main parts completely painted - the panels aft of the main spar are still showing the uneven cover, but I am going to paint them with Mr Metal Color, or possibly foil, or a combination of both. I LOVE THIS SHINE! Engine masks off - I've left the de-icing boots masked until I've finished all the metallic painting. So - my verdict is this was a save of biblical proportions. I'm very happy continuing with it in this state. Thank you all so much for the positive reinforcements, advice and support. This is up there with my highest modelling achievements, going from disaster to near-triumph rather than the other way round! Al
  50. 4 points
    Two shades of green like this one (in the A type scheme) and they should be very low contrast like that, hope that helps. Duncan B I hope you don't ind me sticking this photo in your thread?
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