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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/04/16 in all areas

  1. Hi guys This is my latest work A pair of Swedish SAAB Drakens in 1/72 from Hasegawa They were built OOB and painted with Tamiya acrylics XF-66 (with a touch of white) for the undersides XF-51 for the top green XF-17 and XF-8 (9:1) for the Blue Cokpit XF-58 All colors got coats of lighter shades hope you like it!
    26 points
  2. Hi Mates, today i will show you the second plane of my "Renewing of my Seaplanes" I did this plane several times in the past 40 years, This time, hopfully, it will be the last one for many years. It is oob, Paints are Agama above and Humbrol below, made as allways by brush. Hope you like it. If so i will show the Do 18 also later. Best regards
    19 points
  3. Afternoon chaps, Heres my take on Revell's excellent new tool Fw 190 F-8, built OOB with kit decals and painted with Xtracrylix, it goes together brilliantly, detail is nothing short of spectacular for a kit that cost me £20 and most importantly, it looks like an Fw 190 Might have to get another one of these and do a different scheme...
    16 points
  4. Hi Folks A few recent completions,I had been working on the CA kits when Airfix surprised me with the release of their Meteor. All are finished in High Speed Silver from Xtracolor with decals from the available Xtradecal sheet. Ian 616 Squadron when based at Finningley,CA kit 64 Squadron when based at Linton-on-Ouse,CA kit 74 Squadron when based at Horsham St Faith,Airfix kit
    16 points
  5. Hi guys, I finished this one for the corsair GB and thought I would share it here. Any comments welcome. Painted with vallejo. Build thread is here, http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234997190-tamiya-148-f4u-1a-nz5248/. First time using resin which was abit of a challenge but enjoyable. Anyway picture time; Thanks for looking Joss
    14 points
  6. Hi all, I'm glad to finally present you my first model for 2016, that I've just finished Many thanks for looking, Serg
    12 points
  7. Call this an experimental post to see if I can figure out how pix are supposed to work... The old Matchbox kit, built for a chap who learnt to fly on these things. The Man himself Brave fellow I must say.
    12 points
  8. Hello all, Well it's been a while since I posted my first RFI on the forum - http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234994393-airfix-172-north-american-p-51-mustang-foiled-nmf/- and I was very pleased with all of the great comments that I received from you guys, so I thought I'd throw up my second RFI with a set of pictures of another of my completed models for your perusal? That model is the venerable old 1:72 Tamiya kit of the Bell X-1 'Mach Buster'. Built mostly OOB, the only mods I made to it were to the probes which were very flimsy in plastic form so I made some new ones out of dressmakers pins and tiny pieces of spare etch sprue and I also added the canopy framing from very thin strips of black decal instead of painting them. There is also a scratchbuilt seat harness from painted masking tape, but it's hard to see any of the cockpit details in this scale? The kit decals for the US national insignia were too thin and showed a hint of the orange paint beneath, so they were replaced with more opaque aftermarket items. I hope you like it!! (Picture Heavy) Thanks for looking, all comments and valid criticisms welcomed!! Kev
    10 points
  9. Hi all, Here is my latest creation, built for a friend who was a navigator with 12 Squadron during the mid 1990s. I've got a draft write up here which I'll change at some point, but as you can see, I was not enamoured with this kit. Additions are Aires seats, Eduard photo-etch interior, Xtraparts resin pylons and Xtradecals main markings and stencils (which have terrible instructions). Paint is Mr Color. The pitot tube was replaced with Albion Alloys tubing and the bombs are from the Airfix Buccaneer kit. Six months of hard work, but here is the end product: Comments welcome Jon
    10 points
  10. Hello, currently I am scratchbuilding/kitbashing a sci fi mining vehicle that is supposed to be used on foreign planets to harvest precious minerals and alike. This vehicle is supposed to be a drilling machine, similar to those already used today in mines. I had some tank tracks from some german tank (Pz.Kpfw.35t) left over I had bought as donor kit and decided to use them on the driving section of the vehicle. The tank itself was too narrow so I only used the sides with the tracks and built up the middle section inbetween from styrene sheet, some structured sheet and parts of the upper tank hull that had the hole for the rotating turret. I also used some mudguards from another tank donor kit and some containers from little truck models. For the upper rotating section that will house the driving compartment and the drill itself I used the upper part of another tank flipped over. The containers were the first thing I had built ( or rather detalied up ) and I tried out some color schemes on them to see how looked painted up. I do regret I didn't take more pics before it was at this stage. These are the containers: I continued by adding some protective side skirts to the tracks and building up the upper section a bit more. The rear part of the base was supposed to hold one of the containers or maybe several different ones, so I build a support structure that would ft them nicely. Since the containers are all from trucks at the same small scale, they are all equally broad, even if the length varies. So I would be able to accomodate different containers in the end. Also added a few smaller details like a shovels and a pickaxe. Once I had the lower portion of the vehicle finished however, I couldn't resist to start painting it up. So first I primed in light grey and did some preshading ( here it's only on one side ) Next up I sprayed the base color on it, I think I used Vallejo model color golden yellow. Then I added the first wash with smokey ink to have the details popping up a bit more. Also started to add a few decals I had leftover from the Jetbike at this point. Next up was some color modulation and zenital light wit a slightly lighter and desaturated yellow tone. Then it was time for some scratches, all painted by brush ,here only on one side. After I was done with the scratches all over the vehicle, I added a light wash of light grey in certain areas as dirt. The plow in the front also got some serious scratches and a bunch of dirt. I also added a little bit of rust, but I wanted to keep it decent and not like the green container shown above that had come out way too rusty for a machine that is supposed to be still in use. After that I added a filter from treu earth called Worn Patina 1 over the whole model for some drit and water streaks, then I put some pigments on the tracks and on the areas where the driver would walk on the vehicle the most and of course on the plow in the front. I liked the paint scheme so far and decided to keep it like that and paint the upper part the same way once I am finished building it. Currently I am at this stage: I plan to add a 3D printed tricone drillbit and close the cabin around the seat I have in there right now. The seat is a leftover from the Jetbike I built for wildhouse models, I had an extra seat to sculpt the pilot in and making sure he fits nicely. Since it has no other use like that I decided to incorporate it into the vehicle as it is quite a low seat and the vehicle itself is supposed not to be too tall as it has to fit the tunnels in the end. Cheers and thanks for taking a look. I'll post an update as soon as I have the drillbit.
    8 points
  11. Hi all, Following on from my Wellington I've had another go at one of Airfix's classic bombers, this time it was a new boxing of the old Halifax kit. Built OOB apart from a bit of scratch detail in the cockpit which of course you can see anyway lol Markings are of 78 Squadron based at RAF Breighton, Yorkshire 1944. Not a showstopper but an enjoyable build - next up will either be a Stirling or a new tool Lanc i've got in the stash! Cheers Simon
    8 points
  12. Hi! Here's my 1/72 scale Huey Gunship It is built OOB, and painted using Gunze colors. Best regards Rune Haugen Norway
    8 points
  13. Another build for the guy that flew the bird. This is the old Testors pushmipullyu. I did this as a pretty much straight OOB build a few years back and I recall doing a lot of filling and sanding to get things to fit properly. Still seeing a few seams i missed... Panel lines were done with a sharp pencil and the rivets were highlighted by a light sanding over the paint. One good thing about all those raised lines I suppose.. The base is a chunk of insulating foam cut with a hotwire. The concrete pad is sheet styrene scribed into panels, painted a tasteful cement grey, scrubbed with pastels and caulked with a syringe filled with thick black paint. Grass is railroad static grass applied over a nice muddy brown base colour. I cheated the extra windows using the kit decals at least partly because I didn't have time to do a full blown interior for the model and I am lazy. 3 inch cables were used to tie the plane down because, well it's windy around here. This is an ANG bird so it shouldn't have weapons onboard but the customer wanted them so there you go. Quick and dirty, cheap and cheerful, customer was happy, I got paid, and as they say, Robert is your fathers brother!. Right, go ahead and start the poo flinging! Q
    7 points
  14. The following order was issued by Air HQ India on 27 October 1943 and is rather extraordinary. It is not a draft but an actual order. 226 Group was a maintenance group. So far I can find no correction or countermanding of this order until the Air Force Orders (India) 69-76 of 4 April 1944 promulgating 'temperate land' scheme (TLS) for all fighter aircraft. The ICI Report on SEAC finishes, dated 29 June 1945 but containing the results of an inspection conducted from September to December 1944 refers to an Air HQ India order of March 1944 promulgating Dark Green and Dark Earth in place of Dark Green and Ocean Grey but then goes on to discuss grey colours in a somewhat ambiguous way. The relevant part of the ICI report is included here. Nick
    7 points
  15. Hi, Posted the model before but now decided to give the Mig a bit of context. Just for fun.
    7 points
  16. Gentlemen, Frankly spoken, Sabres are my favourite jet aircraft with a particularly soft spot for the Sabre Dog variant. Accordingly, it was more than a happy event when both Monogram/ProModeler and Revell of Germany released a new-tool F-86D in 2001. Monogram released the earlier "round tail" version and Revell the later version featuring a distinctive parabrake housing introduced with the F-86D-45. 53-1001 in its 1956 livery when being deployed to Yuma AB for live fire training. "Texas Terror" was the personal mount of Col. Grover Wilcox. Later in 1956 53-1001 was converted to an F-86L. The kit offers a wealth of finely recessed surface details and overall fit is outstanding, safeguarding an enjoyable build right out of the box. Nevertheless, I replaced the kit's cockpit with a Black Box office. IP and IP coaming came from an Eduard PE set. The decals came from an Eagle Strike sheet. Item #48069. In order to replicate the natural metal finish, I used three different shades of Alclad II: Duraluminium, Airframe Aluminium and Semi Matte Aluminium. In order to highlight individual panels and joints I used Gunze Smoke. The model was finished with a final coat of satin varnish "à la maison" consisting of Polly Scale flat varnish, TAMIYA X-20A thinner plus a whiff of Future floor finish at a (by approximation) 60:35:5 ratio. Having another dozen of these kits in my stash, definitely not the last Sabre Dog taking off from my workbench. Thanks for looking! Cheers, Erik
    6 points
  17. Hiya chaps. Hope you all like this one. I finished this one a couple of weeks ago and only just getting round to plucking up the spuds to post it for inspection. This offering from Revell is overall a real cracker, and imho better than what's available elsewhere. The fit is good and the engineering ensures a pretty easy build in most places. My only real criticism is though Revell absolutely nailed it in 90% of places, unfortunately where they slip up they slip up bad! The nose wheels are terrible, off scale and look nothing like the real thing (I had a set floating around from a hasegawa 18E that failed before it was finished). The only bit of bad fit on the whole fuselage is at the back, just behind the wings, this is a tricky area though and no one else really nails it here either. The one area that imho they really dropped the ball, is the panel lines, they are all over the places. Beautifully molded in some places, completely missing in others and bears no resemblance to what's on the decal guide! All this aside though, the one thing that really stands this kit out is the stunning decals, designed by Daco and printed in Italy. You'd pay close to the price of the kit for them alone from any of the major decal suppliers, which makes the plastic a bargain. Haha, think of it as more of a decal sheet that comes with matching plastic instead of kit that comes with decals and you won't be disappointed! Anyway, enough of my ramblings, on to the pictures. Hope you like them. Cheers Dan
    6 points
  18. Hi all, Based on the 1/32 nd Italeri F-117. Brushpainted with Humbrol enamels.The underside is black. A full buildreport can be seen here... http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=60381
    6 points
  19. I'd always wanted to complete a kit in this way and this kit gave me the perfect reason to do it. I've since also completed a Swordfish and Dauntless in the same style. Hope you like.
    6 points
  20. Thunderbolt Mk.II, KL849, FJ-G of 271 Sqn, SEAC in 1945,.....built using the Revell 1/72nd scale kit. Here is the WIP thread;http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234999338-172nd-revell-thunderbolt-mkii-was-also-to-be-73-otu-but-nowseackl849-fj-g-of-271-sqn-in-1945finished/ And here is the model; Hope you like it,....all the best, Tony
    6 points
  21. Thanks Ced - it is actually all the little bumps and bends that put me off masking it although it would of course be quicker with a vinyl camouflage mask but I do find brush-painting quite therapeutic (particularly once you accept that you will never exactly replicate the pattern) - I used the drawings in the Ducimus Camouflage and Markings book as my guide and in two easy sessions completed the first coat of the disruptive dark green pattern: I'll give the green another thin coat just to be sure, and it will need a touch-up here and there, but overall I'm quite happy with it. It's been so long since I painted a Spitfire in the Day Fighter camouflage scheme* rather than the Temperate Land Scheme that it looks a little odd to me, but pleasingly so Cheers, Stew * So long in fact that it was probably in the old Airfix paints M2 Slate Grey, M3 Dark Green and M13 Light Aircraft Grey if my memory of the numbers and names serves me correctly
    6 points
  22. G'day people, Well, today was a a two steps forward one day back affair. I have settled on a paint scheme and noticed to may dismay that my example needs the earlier APU 'ribbed' bulge (ooh ahh!), and unfortunately i had already glued in the later smooth type. I did a lovely job of it and there was no way this part was coming unstuck without a fight, so I decided to cut it off and sand down the area I made a casting of the earlier type as well as the LIPA IR jammer. My version is 'fitted for but not with' meaning the base of the unit remains but the actual jammer has been removed and plated over. I did not want to destroy the kit part when it can be used in other builds so I decided to make a casting and modify that instead. The APU blister in place And in the company of the modified jammer base [/url] cheers, Pappy
    6 points
  23. All done: Trumpeter's 1/35 Hind Mi-24v Gunship painted in Czech AF colours using Gunze, Tamiya and Alclad Decals from Hadmodels Mostly OOB but with a few details added thanks all for looking Build thread HERE MH
    6 points
  24. Hi everyone. My Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire Mk XVIe built as TD240, 302 Sqn (Polish) Germany 1945. I used the rather brilliant after market sets from Barracuda, with additional detail added using Airscale decal sets. I did a little scratch building in the cockpit by adding wires and valves as well as adding some more detail to the engine. Those eagle eyed amongst you will see that I added Rolls Royce rocker cover logos, I know that these are wrong as the motor was built under licence by Packard,but it was too late to try and remove them. The kit was painted with Tamiya acrylics with all the roundels, fin flashes and codes being painted using Montex masks and she was weathered using Tamiya weathering sets, pastels and oil washes. Sorry about the rubbish photos,I'll try and take some better ones out side if the weather ever improves! The WIP can be found here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234981952-tamiya-132-spitfire-mk-xvie-finished-4-april/ Thanks for all of the encouragement and here's til next time. Iain
    5 points
  25. `219` in a low level high speed pass on one of her last test flights looking a little worse for wear.....,
    5 points
  26. Thanks Jan & Simmerit, try to correct the decal disaster but at the moment i think it´s better for my to build a new F15 (i have another Revell Kit here in stash) because the surface now is so damaged i cannot look at her...... But hey, almost all arming, the cockpit and some other parts can be used! And the build of the eagle from the Revell Kit is really a fun! Also good news arrived yesterday, after 2 weeks waiting mr. postman brings me this beauty Oliver
    5 points
  27. I kinda figured the pennant dressing didn’t say anything and was just for show. Here the base is painted and sanded. Next will be the construction of the wave. Also, I’m working on the Gato. I removed the deck and after some hard to find and difficult to interpret photos and drawings I added some items to the outer hull including escape hatches and the forward torpedo loading hatch. I still need to scratch the bow plane retract mechanism and install the aft torpedo hatch. Once these are completed I will add the deck cross members and welded steel walkways. This is all totally best guess.
    5 points
  28. Just finishing an academy marine Sherman. I used some small metal rod for the spikes on the hatches,but I think it's to large for the scale. Be warned, glueing them on is a real test of patience!! I'll be interested to see how you get on.
    5 points
  29. Hello you lovely lot. I managed to get some time today to get my struts painted and the wheels on. Yup you heard right we got wheels people. I chipped away the leading edge and top coated last night. The eagle eyed of you will notice the Mahoosive torpedo in the background. Decision made then. Any way. Brown trousers added and all is looking dandy. wheels and struts on. Woot! And now the right way up, with the exhaust on too. Yup you guessed it. A moment on the roof yet another little aerial busted off the tail. Honestly if I have to fashion another one of these little buggers I'm going to go BoNkErS. What with all the wing and wheel excitement I'd forgotten to remove the wind screen and window masks. They were a real pig to get at but I managed it. Not a great shot but you can just about see where the masks aren't. ;D Nearly there now. Just the prop, some aerial parts and line rigging. Oh and that TORPEDO. Thanks for looking. John.
    5 points
  30. Calling this one done. No more tinkering. Kit builds really well but does benefit a lot from the extra etch set you can get from Airfix (if you can find one - seem to be as rare as hens teeth). Does mean a bit of carving and scraping bits of the kit, nothing to bad though. Also added the excellent resin stowage set from Red Zebra models along with the generic army figure. Water and beer boxes came via Hannants. The model was sprayed with vallejopaints and weathered with washes from Vallejo/AK. ‘sand’ on the vehicle is a custom mix of pastels and pigments applied wet and then a dry layer fixed with thinner. Base is a picture frame and the middle built up with foam sheets from Hobbycraft (£5 for 50 sheets of A5+ , a lot cheaper than blue Styrofoam), then Vallejo sand paste and the same custom mix of sand scattered and fixed with fixer. Tow shackles are 0.8mm lead wire and the tow cable 0.5mm wire. The towing strop(s) are Tamiya tape, doubled and trimmed to size. Thanks for looking
    4 points
  31. My third build of the year A Saab J-21A at 1/72 scale More pics at this adress Saab J-21A
    4 points
  32. F4U-5N Corsair from Hasegawa. Markings - VMF(N)-513 "Flying Nightmares" - Pusan (K-1) or Pohang (K-3) base - early Korean War.
    4 points
  33. Hello all, Here's my latest finished work. It's Meng's Kayaba Ku-4 parasite fighter carried by a Hasegawa Ki-49. Both kits were great builds, though the Mens decals and Hasegawa canopy fit were both less than ideal. The Kayaba Ku-4 was originally a glider prototype from 1940 that was resurrected to an experimental ramjet/rocket fighter airplane. It was to carry two 30 mm cannons with less than 100 rounds total. After making passes at B-29s, it was to glide back to an airstrip. Sort of an even more rudimentary Me-163. The Ku-4 is finished with Tamiya rattlecan, while the Ki-49 is a rattlecan base with Vallejo acrylics on top. Enjoy!
    4 points
  34. I'm still trying to get familiar with posting pictures, but here is my Recently completed planes.
    4 points
  35. This is a continuation of the Air HQ India and Air HQ Bengal documents already posted with comments in the thread on Burma Hurricanes in Desert Camouflage. After receiving preliminary instructions for the new blue and white roundels and a request to trial them, Air HQ Bengal sent this reply on 21 July 1943. Following that - and presumably further discussion - Air HQ India issued formal instructions for the size and appearance of the new roundels on 29 September 1943 and how the colours were to be mixed. The note regarding the "white" suggests how usage of the term "SEAC white" might have arisen. Having experimented with this mix for the "white" the result is a pale, slightly greyish azure-type blue and not the strong, near turquoise colours seen on some decal sheets. A further memo (below), issued on 22 October 1943, implied that single seat fighters were to have the medium sized roundels but the Appendix to Air Force Order (India) #70 of 4 April 1944 categorised Hurricanes and Spitfires as having the 'small' roundels. From the initial suggestion and agreement to re-paint existing roundels to appear blue and white to the final Air HQ India instruction for revised, smaller roundel sizes using "SEAC white" was the most part of the 1943 wet season (from May to October) when flying operations were reduced. From these instructions the small SEAC roundels could be expected to appear towards the end of 1943 but IIRC the first Spitfires in theatre also appeared briefly with the original European sized and modified roundels (?). This period of potential flux and inconsistency at the end of 1943 is going to be further complicated by what I'm about to post next. Nick
    4 points
  36. A little more progress: Untitled by bryn robinson, on Flickr
    4 points
  37. no objections, so I painted the full process in some pics: . ..... and traraa!: . thanks for comments, Werner
    4 points
  38. Here is a first look at this exciting release, which also is a bit scaring after the Hobbyboss Tunnan. Let us start with the boxart: Nice boxart, for once it is correct with the often shown mountains on Swedish subjects, since F4 wing is located in northern Sweden (although this looks more like the Alps than the Swedish mountains, but you can't win them all... ) First sprue with body halves: First the most important question: Is it really 1/48 scale - the Tunnan wasn't. The answer is yes. At least almost. I have not measured it myself, but it is just a few millimeters longer than Tarangus' Lansen. The nose is thicker than Tarangus', and I think it is a bit too thick, but I have to check references first. The belly tank has correct shape - which Tarangus don't have. The part behind the cockpit has wrong shape while Tarangus have captured it better. This will be pretty tricky to adjust. On the other hand, the gun openings are better than Tarangus'. Surface detailing looks pretty good, although there seems to be a bit too much rivets since they are almost along every panel line. But panel lines look correct and are fine and crisp. The small air outlet needs to be opened, otherwise it will look weird, it is too big to just be painted black. The rear part differs a lot from Tarangus J 32, but the truth is somewhere between the both. Hobbyboss has a better shape of the "cut" at the exhaust, but the part above it is far too long. Cockpit looks like a Lansen cockpit, but almost nothing is spot on. But for most builders it is good enough. However it is larger than Tarangus - and i think that Tarangus is right. Lansen is a wide aircraft since it was designed for a Swedish-designed engine that never was used. The license-built RM 6A was not as wide as the one that was intended, which resulted in a very wide aircraft. Hobbyboss seems to have made a cockpit that fills the whole space - which the original one didn't. Next sprue: Not much to say here. The engine part is very basic. but not much will be seen anyway. Ejection seats are like the cockpit - at a first glance they look correct, but they aren't. They are far too large and shape is incorrect. But for most builders they are enough. Hobbyboss have included air brakes - Tarangus didn't - and this is really great since they always were extended on a parked aircraft. It is a pity that they are far too small, they are almost in 1/72... Wings look great, size and shape is correct and it is a good idea to integrate the mail wheel well. However it is a bit more difficult for super-detailers, since the real thing had no "walls". But for most builders this is an excellent solution. Wingtip lights and elevons are separate parts (not on Tarangus). Underwing stores are included for a J 32E, something that Tarangus have not. Clear parts are fine and crisp and looks correct. The windscreen wiper is a separate part - well done! A small photo-etch sheet is included with parts for the far-too-small air brakes. Finally the joke of this box: The decals. Wrong typeface, wrong colours, "hand-written" stencils and more. These are completely useless and will destroy even a perfect built and painted model. The only place for these is the dustbin. So what is the conclusion of this first impression? Well, it looks as if this model can be built into a decent model of a Lansen. It is probably much simpler to build than Tarangus release. However, the errors in shape and simplified construction makes it difficult to build into a perfect replica. If you just want a Lansen, this could be a good choice. But if you want to build a perfect Lansen, Tarangus is still the only one. Price is lower than Tarangus, 43.99 GBP vs 64.99 GBP for Tarangus at Hannants. However, bear in mind that you have to find aftermarket decals (Tarangus release has absolutely brilliant decals), and - I also would recommend - aftermarket air brakes. Air brakes are necessary for Tarangus as well, but the difference in decal quality makes the price difference smaller. And now: Let's start the build!
    3 points
  39. Hello All, I started the Airfix classic Sea King over the Easter weekend. I'm hoping to build it as "Old 66", the helicopter that recovered the Apollo 11 capsule. Ultimately I'd like to do a diorama, but I will settle for finishing the helicopter before the GB ends! First, the kit. There are actually two boxings - 66 has a frogman and a net, and some extra decals for "66" as well as for the original "63": Sprue shot: The decals are well past their sell-by date, so I bought some after market ones from Hannants. These are for the Apollo 13 recovery but it's possible to get a "close enough" Apollo 11 version from them with some judicious trimming (apparently the Apollo 8-11 decals are available again now but this is what I bought): The fit of the parts was excellent when the moulds were new: The pilots are the standard post-war Airfix pilots, with rather unhelpfully crossed legs. The plastic is just about soft enough to cut the limbs apart and bend them into a more useful pose: I've detailed the kit seats, made a more accurate instrument panel and added pedals: Pilot #1 in place. Apparently in a helicopter the left-hand seat is for the co-pilot. Didn't know that! I found it easier to glue the control sticks to the figure, not the floor, so I can paint it all as a cohesive unit rather than having to fiddle with the hand fit later on. As the hatch will be open, I need some interior detail. First I put in a ceiling below the motor section, made from curved plastic card: Then some detail (some taken from photos, some made up) inside: The folding seats were made from plastic rod, stretched sprue and wine bottle foil: And painted: I thought I'd have pilot #2 looking over his shoulder to see how the recovery was going, so this guy got some serious surgery: He was given a uniform made from acrylic putty, and I had to add a new nose because there wasn't one on the figure (although the other, nearly identical, pilot was fine). Anyway, I painted them both up: And we have got to here: I need to detail the instrument panel and centre console, then I can think about installing everything and closing it up. Thanks for looking, Adrian
    3 points
  40. Hi all. I have set this thread up for Mrs PlaStix......... Hi, Mrs PlaStix here, I've somewhat rashly agreed to take part in the starter set GB... I haven't built any kits for a very long time and they were vinyl Star Trek figures 'Odo' and 'Quark'... I vaguely remember building some Airfix kits when I was a kid, but after doing some cursory research one seems to have been produced later, so I'm possibly imagining that I made 'Henry VIII'. Anyway, having perused the list of starter kits I settled on the Mary Rose, I was quite tempted to try the Cromwell tank, but Mr P had already snaffled it! I'm a closet Archaeology nerd and also had memories of sitting in our first home together, a little one bed flat, watching the raising of the Mary Rose in 1982 - heart in mouth as the ropes slipped... So it really appealed to me, also if it all goes pear shaped I can always claim that it's the contemporary version! Another reason for my choice was the sage advice of Mr PlaStix: "It will be easier to do than trying a car or plane" Time will tell. Here is the kit, it arrived on Friday: I was relieved to discover that it has only 25 parts!: [/url] These are the tools that Mr P has let me borrow for the event: The decals are so bright and colourful and the flags are a nice touch: I hope I can work out how to put it together, I think the instructions, though sparse, seem straightforward... The hull detail is really crisp and good considering it's 1:400 I washed everything as per instructions and once dry had a go at painting, figuring that the cannon would be a safe place to start, as only the ends are visible when the kit's built. I was advised to thin the paint and was a bit nonplussed by the mottled effect it produced, but Mr P reassured me that this was okay and that it was better to build up thin layers... also this paint dries really quickly. It was metallic grey and that might have explained the patchiness. Painting the deck seemed a little easier, it was just tricky not to 'drown' the area with the watered down paint though: As Mr PlaStix always says - comments and suggestions welcome.
    3 points
  41. This is my SM.79T conversion from Italeri kit with the Pavlas conversion set.
    3 points
  42. 1/32 nd Revell (newest kit) as a gift to a 84 year old relative. I didn't add the codes as this is not important in this case.
    3 points
  43. Perhaps they need to start adding bromide to the tea again.
    3 points
  44. Not much happened at the end of last week, I was doing Expo stuff, my Aunt arrived from the UK and I got distracted cleaning up the parts for a Tamiya Traction Avant. I did remember to track down some more sizes of K&S tube so today I was able to mock up a telescopic baton: In the comics judges have slightly fatter daysticks, but this helps the baton handle fit into her hand, which is really a clenched fist. I based the dimensions on a Monadnock 21" baton I found via Wikipedia. I had to heat and drill the hand to fit the core through, which has put paid to the bubbly mess that was the ends of her little and ring finger joints, so I'll need to resculpt and repaint there. That will make it fit the hand better though. So... I like the baton, as I'd hoped it makes her modified arm pose make more sense and creates some nice lines. I'm still not 100% sure about a riot shield: but I think I'm leaning towards "yes" as it will make for much more interesting photographs and I think it balances the right arm nicely. Opinions very welcome though! I'll clean up the tube parts and get the baton and hands finished off in the meantime. Cheers, Will
    3 points
  45. Back again with a little more. I decided to use Parafilm M to mask the cockpit area, as I had to create the necessary frame lines myself. I could have used masking fluid or Bare Metal Foil, had the frame lines already been established. Since I hard to further shorten the cockpit glazing from the master shown earlier, I had to re-create everything framewise. Below, is shown the glazing area covered with two layers of Parafilm M. Next I used Tamiya masking tape (cut into suitable widths on a small glass mini-refrigerator shelf, using a sharp Xacto blade. Using a brand new blade, I then began to cut along the edges of the masking tape, trying bare only the frame areas to be painted. The arrow points to a small misstep, which will be repaired by a dab of Mirco Film masking fluid, to which two drops of blue food color has been added. This gives the fluid a little darker color, making it easier to see. Next is a pic of the finished, masked canopy, which was first sprayed with the interior gray color, then a coat of navy blue on top. Note also the newly added "hump" at the top of the fuselage, behind the canopy: Next, a picture of the three resin humps to be added to the kit, with the molds having been made via the silicone putty method, mentioned earlier. and, here is a view with a three bumps having been added. Note that the nose gear bay should actually extend at the rear clear back to the first radome on the bottom. Next I begin adding a little detail to the rear turret, which at this point is my biggest hold-up. I can't for the life of me find a view of the gyro gun-sight area, from a sort of "side" view. I have a couple of shots from straight behind, but none to give me a "three dimensional" perspective. It was at this point that I discovered a couple more new problems: 1) I had cut off the MAD boom at the depicted line, as I had read that the turret and MAD boom were bolt-on interchangeable. Not so on this model. Trial fitting showed therear turret was too far forward, necessitating gluing together the two halves of the previously-removed Mad boom, and cutting off a 1/8" section to add to the rear of the fuselage, thus placing the turret into it's correct position re the rudder and elevators. 2) While dry fitting all this, I noticed that while the P2V-7, as depicted in the kit had a "cap" on the vertical stabilizer and a shortened rudder, the P2V-3 I am modeling had the rudder running all the way to the top, without the "cap" on top. Next photo shows the glued on piece, as well as the differences in the rudder: I also suspect that I am going to have to move the upper turret rearward some 1/4" or more. Still measuring photos! And lastly, below are a couple of pics showing the rather unusual markings on the wings during the Summer 1950 era. Gear doors have been added to the nacelles with white glue, to enable the next job on the wings, trying to airbrush the distinctive exhaust stains, some of which will show on the gear doors. I'll then soften the white glue with water to remove them to install the landing gear later on. I think the Stars and Bars may be a little to far outboard, will have to liik at some more photos, and try to make a SWAG. So long for now, will add more asap. Ed
    3 points
  46. Welcome once again to another update. First up I installed the supports for the depth charge rails on the aft deck.. the back of the ship for all those non-ship people out there.. Then I started on the 'fun' bit, construction of the rails themselves. You start by removing this peice of metal from the fret.. Then you fold it in a couple of places.. And you end up with this. Then you have to put one bend in the base of the assembly.. .. which you then place in the rail assembly.. Later you will find out this is not correct but it is too late as you have securely soldered the piece in position and desoldering such a large joint without a proper desoldering machine is just too hard. But thats OK as it is not all that visible especially when you have a load of depth charges in the rails. I really did think the base was going to be the right width to fill the base of the assembly but it was a few mms out. Oh well.. Then after attaching lots of small brackets and angle and the smoke pot holder you end up with this .. The smoke pots got painted along with the depth charge throwers (again) .. Sorry it is on its side but PB wouldn't rotate it for some reason. Now for some hints and tips. 1. Don't paint this stuff before you assemble it. The tolerances are fine and you will just need to remove it from the joints anyway. And you also need to anneal some parts to bend them which will just burn the paint off anyway. 2. Read the instructions from the start to the end of a step completely before starting it. David has a habit of putting crucial details after they are needed making things a little difficult to remedy at times. 3. A number of small parts will need 'adjusting' before they will fit in position. and 4. I followed the instructions and attached the supports to the rear deck, remember that? Don't... apart from making it almost impossible to paint the rails later without getting warm white all over your nice grey, deck it is not possible to get the assembly in position to allow you to press it down into its 4 support frames. Trust me on this.. That's it for now.
    3 points
  47. Hope I'll be able to show what can be done with the Cameo, I'll have to leave for a few weeks in a while, hopefully will get to the markings stage before doing so... Some update. Not many pictures taken as I tried to go faster with this one compared to the Sword Seafire. The different type of kit helped a bit... Parts primed and sprayed in interior green I later added aluminum paint away from the cockpit area, not that anything of this can be seen... Assembling the fuselage halves was easy with this kit but I found that when the panel lines were aligned, the two halves of the tail did not align well. I decided to align the panel lines and I got a good fit on the fuselage. The tail slight misalignment can be sorted with some sanding and should not affect the fit of the rudder. The cockpit was however a very different story ! I struggled to have the rear bulkhead, and the seat aligned properly. The bulkhead also sits too low in the fuselage as it is so I sanded the sides to be able to push it a bit higher. Not perfect but better now. The cockpit was completely OOB apart from the seat belts that I made from foil from a Spumante bottle. I totally forgot to take pictures, here's what can be seen from the top opening The cockpit will in any case be covered by the canopy, that however is pretty bad in this kit. It's not very clear and does not promise a good fit. Markings: I'm still trying to understand which option I like most... I have almost ruled out Berg's aircraft because I want to start with something simpler (the full Norwegian markings would take a lot of masking and spraying). Initially the Israeli option was the preferred one because the wings of this kit are not great in terms of dimensions, meaning that aftermarket roundels may not fit right. Same for the fuselage ones. Then I started comparing the AZ parts with the Hasegawa ones and the rear fuselage is the same length while the wings are longer in span on the Japanese kit (correctly) but the chord is the same. This means that I could use some spare Hasegawa roundels I have left from one of their Mk.VIII kits that I had previously built as an RAAF aircraft
    3 points
  48. Royal Navy and Sqn markings misted over - can be seen, maybe a lil overdone.... Got the NATO black out and on on the tail Ae areas, nose, grills etc.... Starting to look like a SHAR now! All the bits and peices slowly getting done....still not got the hang of this seams business.... The Skyhawk is coming on as well: Mixed a couple of paints to try to get the right blue/grey....camo next.
    3 points
  49. well, I'm calling it done Here's a few pics that didn't make it into the Gallery These photos will update themselves soon enough - good 'ol PB has to wait it out for a few hours Well, that's it. Thanks for stopping in and watching and thanks to the hosts. It was good fun Now back to the darkside of Sci-fi goodness! MH
    3 points
  50. thanks chaps just the rear fuel tank today.. balsa core sheathed in litho.. ..the top can't be seen to I didn't try too hard to finish it ..it's quite a feature as with no armour plate it is what fills the void behind the seat.. I had to remake the crossmember too as I found it is round on the late Spits.. back soon TTFN Peter PS - The Sea Fury is here on BM Rich, but I was most way through it when I started posting it so the link on LSP is the best one. I am sure Mike won't mind..
    3 points
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