Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/05/2016 in all areas

  1. 12 points
    Hi all, I'm glad to finally present you my first model for 2016, that I've just finished Many thanks for looking, Serg
  2. 6 points
    Hiya chaps. Hope you all like this one. I finished this one a couple of weeks ago and only just getting round to plucking up the spuds to post it for inspection. This offering from Revell is overall a real cracker, and imho better than what's available elsewhere. The fit is good and the engineering ensures a pretty easy build in most places. My only real criticism is though Revell absolutely nailed it in 90% of places, unfortunately where they slip up they slip up bad! The nose wheels are terrible, off scale and look nothing like the real thing (I had a set floating around from a hasegawa 18E that failed before it was finished). The only bit of bad fit on the whole fuselage is at the back, just behind the wings, this is a tricky area though and no one else really nails it here either. The one area that imho they really dropped the ball, is the panel lines, they are all over the places. Beautifully molded in some places, completely missing in others and bears no resemblance to what's on the decal guide! All this aside though, the one thing that really stands this kit out is the stunning decals, designed by Daco and printed in Italy. You'd pay close to the price of the kit for them alone from any of the major decal suppliers, which makes the plastic a bargain. Haha, think of it as more of a decal sheet that comes with matching plastic instead of kit that comes with decals and you won't be disappointed! Anyway, enough of my ramblings, on to the pictures. Hope you like them. Cheers Dan
  3. 4 points
    My third build of the year A Saab J-21A at 1/72 scale More pics at this adress Saab J-21A
  4. 3 points
    Bristol Blenheim Mk.1 L 1145, 57 Sqn, 1 Gp RAF Bomber Command Shot down by a Bf109 near Bad Kreuznach whilst carrying out reconnaissance over the Siegfried Line. Kit: Airfix 1/72 Paints: Tamiya and Vallajo MA Decals : Extradecal Extras: Scratch built turret interior, Airwaves seat belts and Barracuda exhausts and air filters. WIP: HERE
  5. 3 points
    You're welcome PC Thanks Simon - you're quite right (of course) so I'll leave it out (mate!) A bit more progress. The hole for the column's not in the middle, and it's not my sanding as the 'pedals' are equally spaced: Apologies to Obe Wan for not using my Vernier for that - I am not yet worthy... Just as well actually as the bottom of the column is a rectangle, so I chopped one out: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr Ready for close up now I think so pilot selected from the reserve: Ready by Ced Bufton, on Flickr I think one of the Airfix bad mold pilots would have been appropriate due to the G forces involved in the speed tests, but I've run out. Do you like the headrest by the way? I got out my leather hole punch to make something suitable and found some leather in one of the punches from a belt modification. Cut it down and glued it on with Gator's Grip. Real leather - ha! Someone has started something recently. Sheepskin seat cushions indeed. You know who you are
  6. 3 points
    Always thought you had a bit of the Tyrolean mountaineer about you, Jon! Glad you were able to fit the vibrator in the tail without undue difficulty. (I am twelve, apparently.)
  7. 3 points
    Little bit of progress over the last couple of nights: light wash of cabin floor, cabin seating finished (I think!) and installed, cockpit seats painted, survival pack painted and fitted to base (inspired by Moaning Dolphin's build!), rear padding of seats painted dark green (difficult to tell the exact colour from photos but this looks about right to me), control columns, pedals etc painted and fitted to cockpit. Toying with the idea of adding crew, so dug out one painted Revell pilot from spares box (think he failed the audition for the pilot of the Rotodyne I built last year!) and one generic Airfix pilot, unpainted as yet. Also will do something for the sheepskin seat covers (borrowing from Jon's build!). So, photo here:
  8. 3 points
    I agree Igor, its almost a baby blue and not right. I have some Mr Color RLM 75 which I think is a much better match for the darker of the camouflage greys and will repaint it with that. Today I have been tinkering around with the rotor hub. One obvious area that can be improved are these upright link rods. Their 1.3mm diameter scales out to around 100mm and is clearly not right (they also have a slight draft angle on them): My plan was to replace them with some 0.5mm plastic rod, I first cut off the offending rods and drilled out the upper part as deeply as I dared. I have also drilled out some 0.4mm holes for some plumbing later: With the main part drilled through I could then assemble the lower rotor as well as adding some spacer blocks to support the pipework: The next set of links were added in a similar fashion: Modest progress then, I plan to do some airbrushing tomorrow and will get more done. Bye for now, Nigel
  9. 2 points
    My Showman's engine is done, phew, that was a long build!
  10. 2 points
    This is a copy of BAC Drawing no.57900, dated 24 November 1964, reproduced in and scanned from TSR2: Lost Tomorrows of an Eagle (Paul Lucas, SAM 2009) TSR2 camo 001 by Martin Schofield, on Flickr Hope it is of use.
  11. 2 points
    Bristol Blenheim Mk.1 L 1145, 57 Sqn, 1 Gp RAF Bomber Command Shot down by a Bf109 near Bad Kreuznach whilst carrying out reconnaissance over the Siegfried Line. Kit: Airfix 1/72 Paints: Tamiya and Vallajo MA Decals : Extradecal Extras: Scratch built turret interior, Airwaves seat belts and Barracuda exhausts and air filters. WIP: HERE RFI: HERE
  12. 2 points
    Thanks for all the encouraging words folks. Bit slower this afternoon due to an hour's "clip and climb" with 06/24 minor. (Those of you who have met me will appreciate that I am the perfect build for climbing ) Minor, on the other hand: Untitled by jongwinnett, on Flickr Anyway, here's the update: First, I was a bit nervous the motor would be very visible through the HC4s windows and door, however, a dry run suggests its almost invisible - and this is before any painting to dull it down further: Sea Kings by jongwinnett, on Flickr Untitled by jongwinnett, on Flickr Sea Kings by jongwinnett, on Flickr At 4mm by about 8, the vibrator motor fits neatly in the tail (with a bit of thinning of the opposite inside face - and not pushed fully home here). The motor replaces the leading edge of the tail bulge and once fixed in can be faired in to the surface I think (needs longer wires first). Untitled by jongwinnett, on Flickr So all quite positive, however the butchered nano quad copter proved to be a false start - the battery is far too powerful and spins both motors at warp speed - so rather than mess about with resistances I think I'll try a smaller battery - I'm wondering if I could use a button cell and conceal it beneath the sonar cover on the bottom of the boat hull. Speaking of boat hulls, I've added the spotlights in the front of the HAR3 and backed them with some kitchen foil, in an effort to give a reflective coating. Sea Kings by jongwinnett, on Flickr A day in the office tomorrow, so unlikely to make much progress but I may be able to search out some small battery fittings!
  13. 2 points
  14. 2 points
    So, the greenstuff finally hardened up enough for me to finish trimming and sanding the pauldron. I added the small padded bit that goes under the neck from an offcut of the putty I'd rolled out for the main piece. Technically it should have five scribed sections, but mines only got four, so it's not 100% accurate, but then the overall shape isn't really accurate anyway, so I'm fine with it as it is. The coloured section should also really be a separate piece, but I wanted to keep the construction relatively simple, and it's close enough. It's main purpose was simply to add a bit of colour to the otherwise monochrome trooper, and it does that well enough The red was a mix of Tamiya Red and a little Gunze Russet to deepen it a bit. The black's just Tam Black with a tiny bit of grey added to take the edge off it. If anyone want's to have a go at one, this is the template I made. As I mentioned, it's not perfectly accurate, but close enough. Just print it out so the widest part of the pauldron is 34mm, roll out some epoxy putty, and trim it to shape Andy
  15. 2 points
    A dumb man went ice fishing. He'd seen many books on the subject, and finally, after getting all the necessary "tools" together, he made for the nearest frozen lake. After positioning his comfy stool, he started to make a circular cut in the ice. Suddenly, from the sky, a voice boomed: "THERE ARE NO FISH UNDER THE ICE!" Startled, the dumb man moved further down the ice, swigged down a beer, and began to cut yet another hole. Again, from the heavens, the voice bellowed: "THERE ARE NO FISH UNDER THE ICE!" The dumb man, now quite worried, moved way down to the opposite end of the ice, swigged down another beer, and tried again to cut his hole. The voice came once more: "THERE ARE NO FISH UNDER THE ICE!" He stopped, looked skyward, and said, " Is that you, Lord?" The voice replied, "No, I'm the Ice-Rink Manager!"
  16. 2 points
    Airfix 1/48 Supermarine Spitfire Mk.Vb "Build Update #1" (4.5.16). Hello Chaps, I managed to grab a few hours here and there in the last 4 days and made some progression with this build. After building 1/32 scale aircraft, I'd forgotten just how simple, in comparison, these 1/48 scale kits are and how fast they go together! Anyway, here's what transpired... First, I performed the ceremonious bathing of sprues to remove any molding residues that might be present.... When the sprues had dried, I then primed all the interior parts and surfaces using black Stynylrez primer. This was followed by applying the interior green color to applicable surfaces. I used Tamiya XF71 Cockpit Green mixed with a drop of XF50 Field Blue, to darken it up a little...I thought the XF71 was too bright. I then masked the demarcations on the interior walls, then airbrushed the aluminum surfaces, and also onto other parts that I wanted to be aluminum. This included the propeller assembly components, so that later when they are chipped, the aluminum shows through... Next, I put together the separate parts for each of the cockpit sub-assemblies and glued them together... I then assembled the Pilot, drilled a hole in his bottom and played "Vlad the Impaler" by staking him with a cocktail stick, in preparation for painting him... This was followed by detailing all of the cockpit sub-assemblies, then applying a matt clear coat to seal the paint... When the clear coat was dry, I then assembled the instrument panel, foot pedals and joy-stick assembly into the portside inner wall section. This was followed by assembling the seat, the starboard side inner wall and the two rear bulkheads to complete the cockpit tub... Before assembling the cockpit tub into the fuselage, I cut out the door panel from the portside fuselage half, because I will be building this model with the door open. When this option is chosen, there is a separate door part that is used.... With that completed, I could now glue the cockpit tub into the starboard side fuselage half. I used mini-pegs to hold the two together until the glue had set... The next step in the assembly instructions is a frustrating one and one that should have been completed before gluing the cockpit tub into the starboard fuselage half. This is stage 17 on page 6 that indicates that part # 56 is to be glued to the wall of the starboard fuselage half. It glues to an area of the wall that is between the two rear bulkheads, which are now an obstruction to performing this task. Therefore, using tweezers and blindly trying to maneuver and locate a peg protruding from part # 56 into a hole in the fuselage wall that is difficult to see, becomes a little frustrating. Airfix need to correct the order of assembly with this part... With part #56 finally in place, I could now close up the two fuselage halves to complete the fuselage assembly. I used tape to hold the parts together until the glue had set... Next, I got together all the parts required to build up the wing assembly and assemble it, starting with the internal wing spars, wheel bay walls and undercarriage actuator links, then gluing the upper wing halves onto the lower wing assembly. The last item was to glue the landing light lens into the lower wing and paint it silver on the inside to complete this stage... With the wing assembly completed, I could now glue this to the fuselage assembly. After gluing them together there were gaps present at the wing root to fuselage joints and a small gap at the joint where the rear area of the underside wing meets the fuselage. Also, the fuselage wing root surfaces were higher than the surface of the wings. So, these areas will not only require filling, but filing down so that they blend together. Any panel line details that are lost during the filing will need to be re-scribed... I then got together all of the control surfaces and glued them into their locations; the ailerons, the horizontal stabilizers and flaps and the rudder... Next, I fitted the upper rear engine/fuselage cowling into location. The geometry of this was larger on the profile to where it meets the front engine cowling, and therefore, there was a step down from the rear to the front of about 0.75mm. This will have to be filed down to blend it in with the front cowling and any lost panel line detail will be re-scribed... I then turned the model upside down and got together the parts for the cooler assembly, the Vokes air filter assembly and the radiator assembly, glued them together, then glued them into their locations on the underside of the model... Next, I glued the two 20mm cannons into place, followed by filling the gaps that were present around the model... After sanding down the joints and blending in the miss-matched surfaces, I glued the gun-sight into location. This was followed by masking the three canopy sections, then gluing the front windshield and rear window into place... Next was the propeller assembly....I got together all the parts required and glued the rear spindle housing assembly, then glued that into the front/nose of the model. The spindle rotates freely to allow for a propeller that spins... The model was now ready for a cleaning with some Isopropyl Alcohol prior to priming. The wheel wells and the cockpit were masked with damp kitchen roll, along with masking the underside landing light lens using liquid masking film. The Pilot's door was temporarily located so that it gets painted and weathered at the same time as the model.... The plane and the propeller spinner and backing plate were now primed with grey Stynylrez primer. When I began priming the plane, I realized that I hadn't airbrushed the interior green color onto the canopy frames first, so, I was careful not to cover the canopy with the grey primer... When the primer was touch dry, I then mixed the interior green color and airbrushed it onto the canopy sections... The last task for this build update was to pre-shade the plane prior to painting. I started with the underside and mixed some rust, dark earth and a drop of black to create a dark reddish brown color. I thinned it down about 40/60 paint/thinners and airbrushed it over the panel lines and around raised features. When the underside was complete, I then mixed some of the rust with black to create a reddish black tone and pre-shaded the upper-side panel lines.... Well, that's it for this first update until the next one, which will cover painting, decaling, weathering and final assembly. In the meantime, if you'd like to watch my YouTube "Build Update #1" video for this report, then here is the link to that video: Until "Build Update #2" happy modeling, have fun and thanks for any comments you leave, much appreciated! Cheers Martin
  17. 1 point
    Ok, I know I'm a latecomer to this but I'll try to get at least one build done in time I've chosen the Airfix 1/72 DH Vampire T.11. Made a quick start cleaning up some mould seams with parts still on the sprue and a base coat of Tamiya Rubber Black on the relevant areas (interior etc.) I reckon a drybrush of Nato Black should pop the detail out.
  18. 1 point
    very neat ! slow is ok if this is the result.
  19. 1 point
    Here you go. Nothing spectacular but it's still taken Captain Slow forever to do! The centre tube (starter handle bracket) will be reduced in diameter as it's way out right now. The smaller end tubes will go through the leaf springs and be held by 14BA brass nuts and studding. Kit version as a comparison.
  20. 1 point
    The Wilson government of 1964-70 did go to the IMF, but the nature and timing of the approach (to handle the £800m balance of payments deficit, which in 1964 was an almost unimaginable sum for a balance of payments deficit) were such that any US pressure to can TSR2 in favour of the F-111 was purely incidental. By that point: 1. ACM Elworthy (the CAS) had already recommended cancellation 2. Healey and others had made clear that they thought the TSR2 should go because it was so expensive; they moderated their remarks in the run up to the 1964 election, leading to a situation where the workers at Warton felt betrayed by the local MP 3. There is no evidence bar the quotes in the documentary to support the notion; the cabinet meeting which saw the TSR2 being cancelled nearly voted to retain it. No minister - and a couple of them were notoriously indiscreet in their memoirs - makes any reference to Wilson, or Callaghan or Healey dropping the 'and if we keep it, the US will block the IMF loan' bombshell. This is an important point - the payments crisis meant that (in general terms) the Wilson administration had three choices - devalue the pound; allow the markets to set its value against the dollar, rather than meeting the requirement to defend the exchange rate as per the Bretton Woods system; or defend it. Devaluation was politically unpalatable since the Pound:Dollar exchange rate of £1 = $2.80 was seen as 'a symbol of national virility' and the devaluation of the pound in 1949 under the previous Labour administration (they lost the 1951 election and were out of office for 13 years) had huge political significance - Wilson was not alone in fearing that it would destroy his government's credibility if they devalued, and with a majority of four (swiftly reduced to three after an unwise attempt to bounce the voters of Leyton into returning (via a by-election) Patrick Gordon Walker who'd been appointed foreign secretary even though he had lost his seat in the election back-fired with Gordon Walker losing), he feared that this would lead to another election in a matter of weeks, and that having 'proved' the Conservative claim that Labour was a party of devaluation, etc, etc, he'd lose it. Letting the pound float was bound to upset the US and a number of close trading partners, and this left defending it (which failed and ended in the 1967 devaluation). That, in turn, meant that attempting to manage the economy was the only option. Standby credits were negotiated with the IMF, but in November 1964, i.e. before TSR2 was cancelled and thus the interpolation of the IMF deal and the cancellation doesn't work. Putting it in the context of a growing awareness that Britain's defence spending had to be cut to meet the challenge of managing the economy and delivering on the administration's policies, though, the role of the American pressure becomes significant, but not in the way the 'America killed the TSR2!' argument goes. Let me quote Glen O'Hara, '‘Dynamic, Exciting, Thrilling Change’: the Wilson Government's Economic Policies, 1964–70', Journal of Contemporary British History, Volume 20 Issue 3 (2006), p.394 In December 1965 Wilson told the Americans that the British would probably leave Singapore, Aden and – once Britain’s counter-insurgency operations were concluded – Malaysia. Northern Australia, he thought, might be a better base for any rapid intervention in the Far East. The Defence Secretary, Denis Healey, seems to have concluded that the British should withdraw from the whole region as early as the summer of 1965, since otherwise there was little chance of hitting the £2bn target. [George] Brown [the Foreign Secretary], more enthusiastic about Europe than the world role, was similarly sceptical, and such ideas became increasingly widespread. The LBJ administration, of course, was horrified at the thought of the UK withdrawing from East of Suez, a horror which grew as the US commitment to Vietnam tied American forces down there and added to the cost of attempting to defend SE Asia grew enormously - the idea that the UK would throw everything up into the air was something which the US administration was not keen upon. Thus, American pressure, one can argue (and people have) was such that Wilson and Healey were determined that having a means of providing a credible force 'East of Suez' was essential - and that meant keeping the TSR2 or binning it and then buying something else - the obvious answer being the F-111 (not least since that, as Damian Burke and the late Tim McLelland [gentlemen who rarely agreed on anything] have demonstrated in their books on the TSR2, this was what the RAF was recommending even before Wilson came to power). US pressure was such that until reality bit very, very hard with growing financial crises and finally devaluation in 1967, having the means of placing a highly credible combat aircraft East of Suez was the get-out 'look, Lyndon - we're putting TSR2/F-111 into Singapore and can rapidly reinforce with more from Cyprus and the UK in a crisis,' something which the basing plans for both the TSR2 and the F-111 very strongly point towards. So what? Well, I'd argue that the context means: 1. The US did not - whatever Jenkins may have said in a documentary - force the UK to cancel TSR2 because of an IMF loan. Yes, there was a deal reached with the IMF, but the timing fails to work. 2. The RAF had already begun advocating a look at the F-111 and cancellation of TSR2 before Wilson took office and before Callaghan realised what a mess Reggie Maudling had made of things. 3. Even if the timing had worked for the supposed loan, there is no evidence that a 'if we do not cancel TSR2 the Americans will ensure we will not get an IMF loan' card was ever played in the debate over cancellation; had it been, the vote to cancel would almost certainly not have been so contentious amongst the cabinet - two cabinet meetings were needed - or as close, particularly since the F-111 was on offer and could be sold to the public (as, indeed, it was) as a much cheaper option offering no real diminution in capability (whether that was true or not is neither here nor there in terms of presentational terms). Finally, the possible consequences of what would've been seen as American bullying by the Labour party - the idea that the entire cabinet of 1964 would've maintained a trappist-like vow of silence for 50 minutes, never mind 50 years stretches the imagination somewhat - would've been unpredictable. You'd likely have seen one or more of: a/ The cabinet saying 'stuff him!' and going ahead with TSR2, daring him to risk the UK allowing the pound to float and destroying the Bretton Woods system upon which international finance was then based. b/ The cabinet saying 'stuff him!' and cancelling TSR2 as part of eye-watering defence cuts which were not in the US's national interest and not buying F-111 c/ Someone in the cabinet leaking this, re-awakening anti-American sentiment less than 10 years after Suez saw shopkeepers hanging up signs saying 'Americans not served here' and creating a huge crisis within NATO - a crisis which would've killed LBJ's hopes of even raising the idea of British troops in Vietnam. And, on top of that, there is firm anecdotal evidence that key players in the US administration were astounded that TSR2 was under threat (they hadn't exposure to the cost implications or the RAF's reservations) and the smoothing of the path for the F-111 (including generous offsets) was because of the concern to ensure that the RAF had a capable strike aircraft; the idea of what the US saw as its most important and potent NATO ally of the time entering the 1970s in a reduced form without something like TSR2 was simply not (they felt) in their national interest. The evidence as a whole points to the recollection of Jenkins being flawed and the likelihood that even if his comments are correct they were of marginal importance in the final decision to cancel the aircraft. Apologies for the length of the post, but I thought that it might be useful to offer a counter-balancing point to suggest the idea that the Americans killed the TSR2, first mooted (IIRC) in Stephen Hastings' Murder of the TSR2, is more and more difficult to sustain through an examination of the broader contextual evidence, particularly when the inclusion of the nature of the Wilson administration and the attitude of key members towards the US is considered alongside the fact that TSR2 was of minor importance in the grand scheme of things. One has to assume a weeding of documents so efficient and a conspiracy of silence so wide-ranging to hide the evidence that it becomes more likely that Jenkins 'mis-spoke' in that awful modern phrase, or simply got muddled.
  21. 1 point
    You are getting less and less OOB mr Ced... No bad thing! You will just have to do a mk I/ii/v with a little leather head rest! Rob
  22. 1 point
    Smashing stuff, you've fairly put manners on her. I'm fighting with one of these myself right now and I agree with every negative assessment of this kit.
  23. 1 point
    Evening all!! I have to say the engines look cool when "in" And really do the job when the intakes are on However if you want to have the option of leaving the lid off, so you fit this part Be aware - the lid wont fit with it in place. You have been warned Jonners
  24. 1 point
    The Easter weekend and last week saw a huge amount of progress, so much so that I can now say.... ITS FINISHED!!!!!! It made its first public appearance at the Cosford show at the weekend, but it was only 98% complete - the steering chains were missing plus some other wires were missing. Since then the last finishing touches have been completed and tonight I took the photos... Close up of the dynamo. I've added cables from the control panel up into the roof to simulate how the lights would be powered. Here you can see the cables that would have delivered power to the lights, with a scratch built junction box joining two of the cables I've just realised on seeing this photo that I've fogotten a decal that should go on the end of the dynamo boss I'll try to choose the best 4 or 5 photos to put in the gallery. Having completed this, I'm really pleased with how it looks... its actually "pretty" How I EVER thought I could light all those bulbs...
  25. 1 point
    There is quite a large difference between the flory blue 220 sponge and the blue /white polisher. It's best to use a well worn sponge and if possible use a micromEsh pad in between them too. I do the polishing with a wet pad. If all else fails, dip it in clearcoat.
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Possibly. There's a first time for everything.
  28. 1 point
    Are the scratches on the inside of the canopy? If they are, best way to get to them is micromesh cloths, once done switch to polishing compounds to finish. I've being using the Tamiya compounds and I'm most impressed with them. They go beyond anything micromesh can do and is best used as a follow on after micromeshing. Go through the 3 grades with the Tamiya cloths then finish with a dry section of the cloth and the result will be the best you have ever seen.
  29. 1 point
    Let me check the headrest, this detail disappeared at some point, may well not have been present in in the XI...
  30. 1 point
    Hm. My previous post magically disappeared. Sanding, priming, scribing,rivetting - over and over again - boredom!
  31. 1 point
    Good work. Thanks for adding the template, that will come in handy one day.
  32. 1 point
    Very nice work on the valve springs and the collectors look very good already. They'll will be spectacular when you've coloured the solder lines!
  33. 1 point
    you're gonna need some more sanders... I think 220 is way too coarse for canopy seam line removal. I tend to use a brand new, very sharp #11 blade gently scraped along to take the line off, and then the three or two finest grades on a "three-way nail buffer/polisher" from Boots to polish it out. If that's not enough, then I have Novus Plastic polish and Meguiar's Scratch X on the car side of the bench. Your best way is to get some Micromesh. Polish it with some 1200 wet and dry used very wet, which will make it milky, but should take out the coarse scratches. Then work your way through the Micromesh 1500, 2400, 3600 and maybe 4000. Finally polish it with some toothpaste, or Canopy Polish, or the afoermentioned Novus or Megiuars. Good luck! bestest, M.
  34. 1 point
    The G-2 kit has a slightly different lower fuselage behind the nose, day fighter exhaust and a different rear bulkhead and some slightly different interior parts, as opposed to the G-4 kit variant. You do not get the rockets with the G-4. The G-2 comes with two styles of nose and smaller vertical fins. Cheers Randy
  35. 1 point
    Just build the Tamiya as is. It's wrong, but not noticeably so. I'd rather build mine than throw them out.
  36. 1 point
    I assume the Flory polishing pads are similar to MicroMesh? If thats the case you should sand in straight lines (not in a circular motion) each grade being used with a motion at right angles to the last grade.having started with the coarsest grade,you should end up with a nice sparkling canopy with no scratch marks. Malcolm
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    It looking better and better each time I take a look! Superb work!
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Hes comming along nicely, the red really does add some extra Awesome!
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Just saw the Gallery pics Tony, another winner from you. I really like the bare metal SEAC scheme with the blue stripes.
  43. 1 point
    Awesome job, the exhaust and staining are some of the best I've seen so far.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Just to clarify the Hendon defiant has just been rebuilt but I don't know if the paint was stripped back
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    Hello Grant, Trenton guy, John and rossm, Thank you for these observations. They are most helpful, as is everyone on this site I have sought advice from so far. The Italeri kit it will be. At my age, raised panel lines are a pleasant reminder of the past more than a flaw. As for a bubble top canopy B(I), I will continue to trawl ebay for an Airfix version. I live in hope for a new 1/72 bubbletop Canberra from Airfix..... anyone. And a Manchester. Michael
  48. 1 point
    I agree Chris...with the fuselage built, add the upper wings, when dry add the intakes. The lower wings can then be adjusted to fit over the lower intakes. Any filler is then on the lower wing out of sight. With your build Mark, I'd suggest adding the lower half of the fuselage now, before adding the lower wing.
  49. 1 point
    I did mine slightly different and built the fuselage and then attached the wing tops to eliminate the gaps. Once dry I added the lower wings. This looks good, looking forward to seeing it come together
  50. 1 point
    Looks great! May have to 'borrow' the idea of the fluffy seats... Tim
This leaderboard is set to London/GMT+01:00
×
×
  • Create New...