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Showing content with the highest reputation on 24/02/16 in all areas

  1. Hello, Here's my 1/48 Intruder that I just finished. It's the Hobbyboss kit, with Hypersonic seats and exhausts, Furball decals, Eduard MER's and Hasegawa Mk.83's. I did it as "Buckeye 810", deployed on the USS Kitty Hawk in 1965. I hope you like it. Thanks for watching. Pete
    31 points
  2. Hello, here is my latest build, the Revell 1/72 F-16A. It is OOB, Decals are Isradecals. I hope you will like it. This is the Real thing: And the Model: Thanks for looking.
    24 points
  3. just finished this mustang today. my first finished mustang. can not believe that. i should do this way earlier. this is a great kits from hasegawa, good detail and good fitting. used great cutting edge decals. only DIY gun barrels. thank you for watching. comments are welcome.
    21 points
  4. A few shots of my latest, the Hasegawa kit with a replacement CMK cockpit originally designed for the Monogram kit, and new exhausts, Apart from a strange reaction between the Humbrol acrylic Dark Green and Tamiya Clear resulting in a very rough texture that needed polishing out, the build was fairly straightforward. Weathering was kept minimal with pastels and silver pencil, as a colour photo of the original aircraft shows it was fairly clean. The panel lines were washed with Flory Dark Dirt as it is not as stark as the black.
    17 points
  5. It’s done. It took 18 months, the sniffing of copious amounts of CA glue, bankrupting myself on the bills for filler and Tamiya primer and the printing and reprinting of many, many decal sheets, but I finally have a completed 1/72 model of my favourite airplane of all time, the DeHavilland DH-106 Comet I. It is certainly not the most perfect model I have built, but I’m extremely pleased with the result, especially when I think back of all the challenges I’ve had to deal with in building it. I won’t repeat everything I wrote in my WiP progress thread (here), but this was one of those Murphy’s Law builds. For starters, the kit itself, made by the now defunct Fliegerhorst of Germany, is crap. I paid (or rather my parents did, as it was a birthday gift) over 100 euros for it, and there can’t be a model kit that is worse value for money than this one. The resin parts were warped, badly moulded, full of pin holes, detail was non-existent and the panel lines of inconsistent depth and crispness and completely missing in some areas. This is the first kit where I’ve actually broken parts on purpose to make them fit. After gluing the parts together, the misalignment between them required the use of insane amounts of CA glue and subsequently the use of a file with a coarseness only associated with crude woodworking to deal with the seams. But I persevered! So after covering most of the room in resin dust (I did use a mask and I wet-sanded almost everything) out came an object that did look suspiciously like a Comet. Of course, application of primer highlighted many, many imperfections and it also showed the panel lines either had not survived the onslaught, of were of such ragged and indistinct quality that they needed rescribing. I am terrible at rescribing, but I like to think that doing it on this kit (in most cases, four of five times for every panel line) has improved my skill somewhat. I think this stage took the longest to get to a level where I was satisfied. Painting went quite well – at least initially. I used Humbrol Polished Aluminium from a rattle can and it went on very well. I moved on with the white section for the roof, which also went on very well. However, after removing the masking tape I found out that Humbrol’s paint didn’t like masking tape, and I had to redo the silver, then cover it with a layer of future before I could move on. In the meantime, I had discarded the lousy decals that Fliegerhorst had included because they were the wrong color. My dad used them as a base to make new ones on the computer, and I applied these to the kit. Stupidly, I didn’t properly check the alignment of the fuselage bands and after thinking about it for a day, I decided to remove them. I hadn’t come this far to screw it up like this! Removal of the decals necessitated reapplying most of the paint. Naturally! In the end, a lot of trial and error to get the decals just right was required and my dad has printed probably close to 20 A4 sheets to get to where we wanted to be, with variations in color, windows painted black or grey, smaller and bigger sizes… I probably have enough left for 10 more Comets, but they’ll all be slightly different! Home stretch then…. I had replaced the front wheel bay and landing gear with some nice resin and metal parts intended for a Nimrod, which gave some much needed detail in these crucial areas. I also tried ordering resin wheels intended for the Nimrod but this didn’t work out so I polished up the kit wheels as best I could. I added some pitot tubes, a light wash to the moving surfaces, a few coats of future and satin finish and that was it. It all sounds a bit negative when I reread this, but it wasn’t like that. I did have a lot of fun building this kit and seeing it progress over time, and it’s most definitely my favourite model. Now if only I had a safe place to put it…
    15 points
  6. Hi Everyone. Hope you don`t mind seeing some photo`s of my just completed Hobby Boss 1/48, Grumman A-6A Intruder Completed to represent an A-6A of VMA(AW)-242, `The Bats`, U.S, Marines, Da Nang, South Vietnam, circa 1968 I was looking to do something different with the weapons load than the normal `Snakes and Rockeyes`, when I came across a photo... on line and later a profile in the Osprey Book, of one loaded with WWII vintage 2000 pounders, decorated as Easter Eggs. Had to make a few modifications to back date the base kit to fit the time frame, luckily none of them really difficult Decals came from; Intruders From The Beach` AOAdecals, 48-001 and the bombs from Tamiya Skyraiders Apart from those, the brake pipes and some bits of wire here and there, the rest is from the box. Hope you enjoy, thanks for looking Cheers Russ
    14 points
  7. Hi everybody, I have finally managed to finish something. It is Hawker Hunter 842 from Oman, approximately from the early/mid 1980s. This Hunter is one of the former Jordanian a/c presented to Oman in 1975, serviced by Airwork Ltd., a British contractor, and flown by British and Omani pilots. You will certainly have seen the pictures of fairly low flying Omani Hunters and Jaguars. It must have been a interesting period for the people involved and at least for the foreign contractors, Oman seems to have been a dry country only in meteorological terms. Together with the Swiss and Singaporean Hunters the Omani a/c were the most modified variants of this classic fighter. Apart from their unique two-tone blue-grey camouflage (the pattern is similar to the one used by Rhodesia and of course based on the three-tone RAF scheme) the Omani Hunters also received new pylons under the wing roots for carrying Sidewinders. Towards the end of their career, some Hunters were also fitted with AN/ALE-40 countermeasure dispensers on the rear fuselage. There were also several patterns of camera noses, not all identical with the RAF's FR.10. For this model I have used the Revell F.6 kit (because I had it in my stash) and added the fairing for the brake parachute using a resin item made by Quickboost. Eduard Brassin provided the AIM-9P Sidewinders. The inner pylons and the chaff/flare dispensers were scratch built. I also added the outboard 3 in-rocket rails which the Omani Hunters carried throughout their carreer as well as the "towel rail"-antenna on the lower fuselage. The paints used are my own free-hand mix of Tamiya XF-2, XF-18 and XF-82 for both the lighter and the darker blue-grey. The decals (never many on Omani aircraft!) came from Xtradecal with some modification to get the Arab "842". Based on photos I aimed at a very weatherd look. Photographing models still presents a challenge to me and it was remarkably how much the colours shift depending on lighting and background. Actually, I haven't fully understood yet how this highly automated camera works. Anyway, that is how the model looks approximately: And finally: together with a RAF Hunter operated in the same part of the world (but roughly 20 years earlier!):
    11 points
  8. Hi all, today I want to introduce eduards nice kit of the Bf-109 E-1. A model with history. Normally flown byWinfried Schmidt from 5./ JG77 Alfred Held from 2./ JG77 made the first shot down of a RAF bomber in the 2. WW, a Wellington over Brunsbüttelkoog on the 4th . Sept. 1939 at 0615 pm. Winfried Schmidt brought down his first plane , another RAF Wellington bomber, on the 18th Sep. 1939 over Langeoog. (Northsea) The model is built oob. The quality of the kit is awsome. I built this one 3 years ago. Andy
    11 points
  9. Japan Maritime Self Defence Force's destroyer DD-161 "Akizuki". Pit-Road kit in scale 1/350 with photo etched handrails from other kits...
    10 points
  10. Cant 506b, in November 1937 years staying in Italy a delegation of Management of the Navy started talks in the factory CRDA on the purchase of aircraft for the Marine Air Squadron. Italian side accepted the conditions and agreed to the introduction of equipment Polish production. On 30 July 1938 an agreement was signed to provide the Polish 6 planes CANT Z.506B, while supplies were to be held in three terms after 2 planes from 26 June 1939 until 26 July 1939 year. Polish to reach only one of the planes that flew on 27 August 1939 from Italy to Puck, through Yugoslavia, Hungary and Slovakia. The aircraft was armed, but according to international regulations during the flight over foreign countries had no ammunition on board. On September 1, 1939 after the bombing of the Marine Base Squadron Air Puck, it was decided to evacuate the aircraft into the country. It started on 2 September 1939, going first to Modlin, but was forced to launch the Vistula near Kozienice. Then, on September 6, it was ferrying the lake Siemień near Parczew, where on 11 September 1939 was destroyed during an air raid German planes. Model Supermodel- done with the box, and the same painting is presumed that as not been preserved photos
    10 points
  11. This is the Hasegawa 1/200 P-8A Poseidon. The model is OOB and was painted with Mr Color and Alclad paints. Nice fitting kit but it does have a lot of very small parts and quite a few decals to apply.
    9 points
  12. Thanks guys, Today has really been the final push on this. Before I could get the matt varnish on there were a few minor assembly jobs to complete, first the tiny pitot tube on the underside: That was then painted in situ, keeping the end in natural metal finish: Finally a strip of PE round the exhaust to represent the band clamp there: Varnishing done the masking and sponge could come off: After a bit of clean up and retouching the wipers and side window vents went on: Note the silvery end to the pitot tube, I'm quite pleased with that. Now for all the lights. I used a clear red cocktail stick to make the tail light: Here it is installed along with a new formation light which snapped off: I then made red and green navigation lights, while the clear green was drying I unmasked the doors: They came out pretty cleanly. Here then are the navigation lights: Along with a tiny 0.6mm diameter light up on the anti-slip patch: I then released the fire extinguisher from its wire and retouched the end: While that was drying I glued on the doors and then got it installed: The final piece of assembly (apart from the main rotors which I'm going to glue on) was the front aerial: So apart from some minor paint and varnish touch ups here she is finished (with the rotors just balanced on): With all the scratch building involved its been a bit mojo sapping at times but its been a fun build and its great to get her finished. Its dark now so RFI at the weekend. Bye for now, Nigel I got one, a Harrier egg plane from Col.
    9 points
  13. OK, it has been a week since I posted something, so here is one of my favourite Bf 110's. The model represents a Messerschmitt Bf 110G-2, of 4/Zerstorergeschwader 1, Wels, Austria in the spring of 1944. As usual the following was performed on the model. Fuselage - MG 81Z replaced with Aries resin guns - Eduard photo-etched seatbelts added - FuG25a IFF antenna made from piano wire - antenna wire made from stretched sprue - MV Products lens used for gunsight objective lens - belly pack gun barrels replaced with aluminium tube Wings and Landing Gear - landing gear modified to sit at proper angle - exhaust pipes replaced with Quickboost resin pipes - pitot tube relocated to wing tip and replaced with hypodermic needles - MV Products lens added to landing light - starboard side air intake corrected Paint and Decals - airframe painted with Xtracolor X206 Graugrun RLM 74, X207 Grauviolett RLM 75 and X208 Lichtblau RLM 76 - model is weathered with chalk pastels - markings are from Cutting Edge 48045 References - Famous Airplanes of the World No. 41, Messerschmitt Bf110, Bunrin-Do - Aero Detail No. 21, Messerschmitt Bf110 - Walk Around No. 22, Bf-110G, Squadron Signal Publications - Monogram Close-up No. 18 Bf-110G, Monogram Technical Publications Cheers and thanks for looking Randy
    8 points
  14. Hi, Next of old and odd Germans - from my current (2016) "production"... Focke Wulf FW 56 Stosser (Sparrowhawk in translation - the name of bird Accipiter nisus ). Kit by Heller, very old - mould from seventies of past century, was in my stash for about 25 years, only minor changies in engine inside done. Painting scheme from profile published in a book "Sojusznicy Luftwaffe" ("Luftwaffe Alles") - by J.Rajlich, Z.Stojczew, Z. Lalak. Machine from School of Advanced Piloting in Karlov, likely about 1942-43. Comment welcome Best regards Jerzy-Wojtek
    8 points
  15. 1/72 Pegasus Martinsyde G102 Elephant, Middle East 1917-18. Regards, Steve
    8 points
  16. Hi After what seems like ages, here's my attempt at an RAF Merlin, as used in Afghanistan....Plus a bonus pic of the Merlin with some of it's flying cousins. The Merlin is slightly untidy around the edges of the windows - always a part I struggle to get looking right. Hope you like! Cheers Rob.
    7 points
  17. So here we are again, a small update as real life issues have taken up most of my time. Blending in the pistol port with Mr Surfacer More foundry markings And the stowage rack, soldered up this one to give it a bit more strength Enjoy folks Dan
    7 points
  18. Hi all, This is a 1/48 german F-4F Phantom of WTD61 One of the last flying german F-4 Rhinos I saw this famous coloured F-4 during the Pharewell -Phlyout Air Show on 29.june 2013 at Wittmund AB . Home of the former and recurring FighterSquadron JG71-Richthofen . Basics : - F-4F Phantom Hasegawa Kit 1/48 -Decal Kit : 1/48 WTD61 F-4F by Syh@rt I have not used any further Detail kits and I know this model is absolutely not 100% but it's my personal memory of the F-4 F-4 for ever Michael
    6 points
  19. Good evening to all! I'm back with a new model... a Canadair Cl.13 Mk.2 in italian Markings. This particular airplane was a "F-86 E-6 CAN" (as named in Italy) of the 14th Group - 2nd Air Brigade based on Novara-Cameri AFB at the end of 1957. Very quick build of the old ESCI/Italeri kit to test the new decal sheets by MT Production. The only aftermarket is a seamless intake made by Kendall Model for the Hasegawa kit. Cockpit is a kit bash with the Academy. There are a lot of mistakes on ESCI kit, first of all the wrong shape and dimension of the gun bay panels. Due to the lack of time, I choose not to correct them. Alclad Lacquer (White Alluminium and Magnesium) for the Natural Metal finish. Final finish obtained with Toffano Satin Clear. Hope you'll enjoy my Sabre! Cheers. Valerio from Rome, Italy.
    6 points
  20. Spitfire Mk.I No 610 ‘County of Chester’ Auxiliary Squadron, 16 October 1939 – 10 May 1940 RAF Wittering. The serial is unknown as sometimes they were overpainted during this period, bot the codes DW-O are clear. The fin stripes are reversed (blue leading - maybe in error). This one came in polybag and header with the product code 1216 from 2003, but its the same old 01071 kit.
    6 points
  21. Thanks you Badder and Foxy Just roughing out the commander figure, he's keeping his head down. So far these are as said the kit figures with resin heads, I now need to come up with a loader that would fit the pose of the rest of the crew.. I'll be back with more later. Dan
    6 points
  22. Built this little 1/72 pusher just for an exercise in rigging.
    6 points
  23. Top Coat & Decals Top coat added of A.MIG 067 IDF SAND GREY '73 as used from the 6 Days War to the Yom Kippur War but a restrained covering I'm trying to get a weather worn effect (the gun mantlet canvas has yet to be painted) and there are still parts to finish I thought it best to get the markings on now. I shall build up towards completion after varnishing A few notes: Yes, it looks like some uncovered areas of paint Yes, it looks a bit rough in parts Yes, there are shiney parts (I haven't varnished it yet) Next Time: Wheels, Tracks & Fittings
    6 points
  24. Went to the RAF Museum Hendon last week and there's some work going on in the Battle of Britain Hall. The lights are on and they are working on the exhibits. free screen capture screen capture windows capture screen upload image upload images free pic upload image url upload how do i print screen imgurl upload a gif upload pic how do i print screen host image upload img image free hosting The dismantled aircraft show some nice interior details.
    5 points
  25. Good morning! Today the sun was shining, so a good opportunity to take a few pictures of my Sea Harrier. It's the well-known kit from Italeri/esci, even built with the kit decals. Some parts are from Pavla, like the cockpit, intake with open doors and the exhausts. Colours were white and EDSG from gunze, the Sea Eagles are from a Hasegawa kit. Thanks for attention! Alex
    5 points
  26. It's been a little while since I updated this build, but things are progressing. I had intended doing some work on the tender steps but the brass is proving a little difficult to bend so requires annealing, I just have to find something suitable for this on my next trip to that well known DIY store. So whilst that job is on hold, I've gone ahead with fitting the remaining handrail knobs and primed the boiler and footplate. There are a couple of sink marks on the footplate that have shown up under the primer so I have to fill those and I have added some plastic rod to what I assume are moulding pins for the holes where the leaf springs fit, all of that has to be fitted. ​The remaining handrail knobs have been fitted and the boiler and footplate primed. I have also done some work to improve the front buffer beam. This started with filling of the holes for the kit vacuum pipe and connector and then I had to cut a slot to accept the replacement parts. The replacement parts, the vacuum pipe will sit over the dark grey circular mark and I will fit that later. (the stem will bend under the buffer beam). I have also added the handrail to the boiler along with the door darts and these are now permanently fixed. The door darts have been trimmed to a more suitable length for City of Truro as per the reference photos I have found. ​Handrails and door darts permanently fixed and you can see the plastic rod used to fill the moulding pin marks. ​Whilst it seems that I keep going over the same ground, I think that it is just the nature of building a kit like this. You have to add stuff, then remove it to check the work or sort out other areas before a final fit. But I feel that some good progress is now being made and I should hopefully be ready to start painting soon. Thanks for stopping by.
    5 points
  27. Well, this is what I call open moulding, which is as simple as it gets...in theory! First the Lego wall is sealed to a plastic card base with double sided tape. Flat bottomed parts are double sided taped onto the base. RTV silicone mixed 20/1 by weight. I bought some jewellers scales from eBay for small quantities. 5 quid and measure to 1/100 of a gram!!! RTV poured into the mould and left for 24 hours to cure. Recommended to pour slowly into side of mould to reduce bubbles. Generally, I don't though. I half fill then rock the mould about until full coverage, then finish filling. I also whack the mould and/or stick it on my compressor to vibrate the bubbles out! After 24 hours pull away from parts. You should have a totally cured mould, but in this case I didn't. I normally leave a half mm strip of double sided around the part but this time the adhesive stopped the rubber curing. Thought I try some resin in there anyway. My resin is a 50/50 mix product. My secret to get an even, quick mix is to use 35mm film cannisters. Even quantity in each, eyeball it and shake in another (with the top on). Magneto came good. Rockers are OK but have the blobs on the edges. The bolt heads are the perfect size to trap air bubbles...I've got 2 on these ones. Tomorrow I'll pour again and be ready with my cocktail sticks for some bubble prodding action. I was going to redo this mould, but the blobby edges can be sanded so no worries. Happy with the tyre sidewall, especially as this is a second generation mould from the original. Gave me the opportunity to remove the Protar dip that seems to be in all the originals. Other half will be a 2 part moulding nightmare. Already thinking of a injection method to erradicate the bubble problem. Done it before with syringes but they are ruined after one use. Thinking along the lines of the pressurized Gunze brake bleeder idea!
    5 points
  28. On with a new build, this is 1/200 scale kit of the L Class Destroyer HMS LANCE as she was in 1942 just before being bombed in Dry dock in Malta which caused her to be written off and taken apart. The kit is a Paper Model rather than plastic, I have purchased laser cut frames for the hull formers and some of the upperdeck constructions, as well as set of turned barrels. The kit is produced by WAK one of the Polish companies which specialise in these types of kits and has some elements of english in the instructions which can be helpful. A few pictures of the kit below: This will be my 3rd attempt, the 1st being HMS Sheffield which tunred into an absolute disaster, but I learnt alot about hull construction and importance of alignment etc, so I tried again with HMS HESPERUS, which was nearly completed, but has a number of severe errors, however it proved the successful hull construction, and I will follow that approach with this build. Step 1 is to assemble all the laser cut parts using UHU or PVA glue ensuring they are aligned as well as possible, this is a good kit as the parts are separated to allow a waterline or full hull version to be built. Photos below show progress to date, first few are the waterline parts then with the full hull option added afterwards. This is all glued together and dring out, and provides a surprisingly strong construction. The photos have been taken on an A3 cutting mat which gives a good impression of the size, its about 54cm long 5.5cm in the beam and 5.5cm high at its highest point so far. Work will move onto fill up the gaps with scrap corrugated card ready for filling, I found on Hesperus that this provided a really solid base to work with for the hull side placement, and a lot of strength in the ship as a whole. More photos on progress to follow once complete. Thanks for looking in. Russ
    4 points
  29. The S tank has always been a favourite of mine. It still looks futuristic even though it was designed in the 50s. The. Kit was. Fun to build and bar a metal barrel is out of the box. I used a combination of a j's works mask and frog tape to mask the splinter cam. I think it turned out pretty well. The modelling gods we kind to a foolish newbie and I only had two small run so they were easy to patch in. I finished it off with a sepia wash and a Matt coat to flatten everything down after the gloss for the decals. Still learnings, both modelling and the photography, so comments welcome.
    4 points
  30. Personally - and it is only my opinion - I think you are wasting your money. I've seen photos of the metal accessories and frankly my Alclad versions look much better! This is one of the metal engine bells: This is my Alclad version and that didn't cost me £130...
    4 points
  31. Thanks Guys Crew time, added the radio op and the driver, supplied figures torsos but Hornet heads used. Just need to sort out the commander and loader now. Dan
    4 points
  32. As promised, here are more pics. Thanks guys. And yes, this is the base from the Bandai Falcon kit with my sand technique. This is a brand new kit from Fujimi that was released this past December, 1/24 scale. Beautiful kit. Street version just came out last week. I have one of those on the way as well.
    4 points
  33. Beggar me, that's a first! The lights being on in the Battle of Britain Hall!
    4 points
  34. Nice work, Ced. For the record, I'd like to point out that I'm not a blonde 22 year-old aerobics teacher. If I was, I imagine I'd be having a lot more fun.
    4 points
  35. That's very strange. I assume the GR1/3 ammo tanks (30mm rounds) were larger as we could get a lot more in them! Also there was a certain type of beverage ( Approx70% proof) that happened to come in bottles that were approximately 67mm in diameter. ( At this point I think its prudent not to mention that the SNEB rocket used in the Matra 155 pod was a 68mm rocket.............!) Selwyn
    4 points
  36. Hi folks Managed to get some work done on both of them Primed and resanded the rough spots.....testing the shark mouth motive too....as that area will need to be masked....for the home printed decal. It's ready for a rescribe and then a bath and into the paint shop The other one is also repainted and futured next will be decalling and cockpit work. Thanks for dropping by Rgds Brian
    4 points
  37. I an confused yet intrigued by this thread.... Is Simon a sporty 22 year old blonde? And how will all the parts that don't fit, fit!! Rob
    4 points
  38. Great though it is to see a much needed new tool buccaneer, what would go down a storm would bea s new tool Canberra B2/B6. I'm sure it would have world wide appeal considering how many countries used it,
    4 points
  39. All right, I'm going to slap a few coats of paint on this baby and call it done: I know it's a little rough, and the seams need some work, but what the hey. Seriously, this was a test to see if the weight I put in the front of the nose is enough. Verdict: Way more than enough. It is nice to see the pieces take form, and I can see just from taping it together that things are going to fit quite nicely. The only place where I see any kind of gap is on the radome, where I had to sand off a casting lug. Methinks I sanded too much there, matey! This is a nice example of the quality of CMR resin kits. She's going to look nice, and a bit smaller than I thought. I'll have to be careful handling the model in the unpainted state while I assemble it - she be slippery! I think I found another boo-boo, but not being the Sea Venom expert I don't know for sure. CMR provide alignment pegs and holes for the horizontal tailplane. This is unusual for a resin kit, and I like it. The pegs/holes are not symmetric port to starboard, so there is only one way to assemble the tailplane into the booms, and you can see in the photo how that looks. My question: Isn't the tailplane upside down? Shouldn't the actuators for the elevator be on the bottom? Easy fix, just cut off the alignment pegs and superglue a butt joint. I'd suggest adding some rod, but it would have to be really tiny. The tailplane is very thin - heck, you can see through it. Moving forward...I want to get the model looking like what I just masked by tomorrow. That's because I have chemo on the day after that and it will knock me down for a couple of days. Cheers, Bill
    4 points
  40. Thanks Simon, I'm sure your 'real world persona' matches that of your charming online one. Unless... you're not a sporty 22 year old blonde aerobics teacher 'grooming' us modellers are you? If so, PM me. Not much done as it's 'Star Wars' with the neighbours night (again) and I want to be in a good mood I have done some (mostly) harmless things, applying AK True Metal aluminium to appropriate parts so I can position the control column as a reference for the I/P. Reference shots show the column really close to the panel. Presumably if you wanted to go down quickly you just chopped the power. Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr Cookie suggested leaving out the guns to avoid the window issues (above) and I must say that the guns don't have the best detail I've seen, but look at the nacelle cannons: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr Big or what!! And they say size isn't important... That's it for today.
    4 points
  41. I took this pic of a BAe Systems Skyhawk at the Phantom Phinale at Wittmund AB in 2013. You can just make out the strap around the slat on the far right of the pic. Sadly I didn't take a better pic of it.
    4 points
  42. I have a confession, over the lousy winter I've been working in the conservatory. Subsequently the mess built up in the workshop........... Yes I am ashamed I recently fitted a bathroom for a customer and I used twin wall UPVC sheet to line the walls Having approx 3/4 sheet left I began wondering about upcycling it in the work shop Result............... Which led to............. # On a roll now the paint rack above was OK for ready use but............. All done from what I had lying around
    3 points
  43. This is AZmodel's 72nd scale Boeing P-26. Brengun PE detail was added (mainly intererior), and resin Wasp engine from RADIAL ENGINES &WHEELS. This is a 'whif' (what if) project, story is: ... with the Canadian economy finally recovering from the Great Depression, the RCAF began pressing the government for the need to modernize their air force. Looking to their neighbours to the south, a deal was struck to procure a single aircraft for testing purposes. In exchange for the Peashooter, an undisclosed amount of beer, bacon and maple syrup was shipped across the border. regards, Jack
    3 points
  44. I finally started last night to work on the Greif. As I 've heard so many (bad) things about gaps, filler, bulkheads off size... I decided to perform some checks on the fuselage. For first, after having removed and cleaned the sprues attachment signs, I tried to assemble the two halfs to see if they were matching; I don't want to have a bad surprise at the last moment with the finished cockpit already in. So I have joined the top halfs, maintaining them together with paper tape... and have a look to what happen at the bottom fuselage... The top two halfs are joined correctly together; there is a very light deformation forward of the front gunner, but it's so light that it will be rectified by the inner additional frames and beams I will add. In fact, the bottom is not aligned, especially in the bomb bay area. I'm thinking to correct this with some inner location plates that will force join the two halfs together. However I will add some inner frames to give more rigidity to the fuselage, especially in the wing area. After this, it was time to check the correct match of the canopy and the front bubble window. The front window is matching pretty good with the canopy and the fuselage; the canopy has a little issue with it's curve angle which doesn't match with the fuselage. That's not a big big issue, but I need to modify the curve before assembling. After that, I tried the front bulkhead: It was the separation wall between the cockpit and the front fuel tank; it support also the the front gunner aiming turret and all the radio /nav boxes. The frame indeed is too big and pushed up the top fuselage skin.... to be modified! Then I've tried the cockpit floor, with a good matching with the fuselage shape, but impossible to fit to the rear wall because of the wrong length of the floor, too long! At this point my question was : where this the truth, where is the wrong.... So I opened the Bunrin-Do book... ...... ....and I realized that the cockpit was nearly... all wrong: wrong floor, incorrect location of the pilot and bomber seats, missing bulkhead... And I'm not inventing, it's from Heinkel 177 Flugzeugbuch... In fact the first thing that has surprised me when I opened the kit was the very small space left to the gunners inside the lower gondola: if you have a look to the kit, the gondola was nearly completely closed by the cockpit floor with just a small access to it...you can imagine moving inside this space with the coverall, parachute, and more than that, fighting and firing the MG-151 which was a long weapon. The explanation is very simple, in fact, the floor is nearly completely opened with only the mounts for the pilot and bomber seats and the flight controls; all the rest is a direct access to the gondola and the front gunner could raise up the MG-151 in between the pilot and bomber to fire downward. Here are some photos: View looking forward, down to the gondola. It's easy to see the pilot seat stand (cylindrical bracket on the left) and the bomber seat (on the right); the floor is completely opened in between up to the control column! Another view: we can see the front lower frame opened to leave free movement to the gunner. In front, the gunner window. View from the access hatch: there is no floor at all except for the seats. An example with the MG-151 raised up between the seats, firing downward. The kit's floor... completely wrong. The black area should be cut out and the seats re positioned. Well this where I got yesterday night... maybe not so interesting, but I need to do this kind of job before starting to get a nice 177. Tonight I will buy some plasticard to create the missing frames and beams. This will be interesting to do... I have never done this kind of reconstruction... I was thinking about keeping a record of the frames I will build, like a template; maybe some of you could be interested for their Greif's . More to come. Cheers.
    3 points
  45. Rocket Launcher & PAINT! This is a very detailed kit build and definately warrants this many pictures folks! There are parts of this kit which are fabulous and then...... there are some which hark back to the early 80's molding styles where parts 'kinda' go together. I'm not saying that I dislike this kit but - come-on Trumpeter, you know you can do a lot better. More haste, less speed on the mold manufacture Guys. Some of the two-part moldings are close to shoddy! I want a good look in the box before I buy my next one of these - better forewarned IMHO. Started the Launcher for the 12 missiles and it is TBH a bit clunky in parts and fairly basic stuff - serious fettling needed to sort out the mis-matches PAINT! Just Vallejo Model Air Matt Black with about 5%-10% Thinner added. Better to do 2 extra-thin coats on something this big than blast away without thinking Yes, you can still see some grey plastic and now the paint has dried I can see a few bits which I will re-visit tomorrow TBH, I'm not that bothered now about that lovely engine as, once I button up the front of the MAZ, you won't see it. Next Time: More paint of course & The Launcher Array
    3 points
  46. BRIEF STATEMENT ABOUT BLACKBURN BUCCANEER PROJECT. Dear forum members and our friends; First of all, thank you all for your interest in TANMODEL brand and our projects. Yes, we are planning to release Blackburn Buccaneer S.2 kit and we made some progress in 3D design. However we will release this project in 1/72 scale. (Of course, our reference is 1/48 scale RF-84F kit) A modeler and author friend of ours, also a member of this forum, stated that he will support us. If he wishes, he can announce his name. We detail the design in summer and we wish to present a perfect Buccaneer to you in autumn. We would write messages to you for decal selection, however we wanted to make a small briefing under this topic. Regards, TANMODEL http://www.tanmodel.com http://www.facebook.com/tanmodel
    3 points
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