Leaderboard

Eritrean Su-27 from Eduard - Academy on steroids ..... but added some scratch and: Nozzle - Aires, weapons, wheels - Eduard, ladder - NorthStar and wheel bay from Wolpack.

OOB model...

Hi all, here my latest build. The new Shackleton AEW2 by Revell in 1:72. It`s a late test-shoot I received by Revell in December. There should be only minor changes to the finished kit. Add some Eduard eatched parts and used DSG colours by Gunze.

Here it is, all complete. I planned on doing a diorama with this airplane, but the figure set I got was way out of scale. It was very disappointing. The build though went very well. This kit has great fit. I previously built the new tool Spitfire, and the fit on that kit was not good at all. Not the case here. I used Tamiya Sky and RAF Dark Green, and used Model Master Acryl for the Dark Earth. All the paints went down great. Overall impressions: Airfix seems to make good kits for the price. I really enjoyed this particular kit. It has good detail and excellent fit. Some things I did not like: Airfix kits seem to have very thick plastic. In combination with this, the sprue attachment points are very thick. Also, the plastic has a very rough surface, especially on the inside of the fuselage and wings. It was fine with this being a flat finish, but if one were to do a metal finish, it would take much work to smooth the plastic out. I would certainly recommend this kit. It is a very good kit, especially when you consider the price. I paid $20 USD.

I love this scheme but not the kit.I hope the hobbyboss one is better. Model air paints and out the box build. _MG_9461 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9459 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9457 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr Glyn

Well, having built Trumpeter & Frog's Gannets, and nearly scratch-building an AEW.3 with scant help from Airmodel's vacuform conversion--Revell's raises few complaints! I truly enjoyed building this one--the detail is great, the fit is fantastic, and it looks the part. I opted for the weathered paint look the retired bird acquired in civilian life, but left off the civy registration to keep the operational feel--I'm not sure what the Puma logos on the aft fuselage are for either. My only niggles was the usual, matt finish of Revell's decals, the fact that is well nigh impossible to pack enough weight in the nose to keep it on its undercarriage, and the fact that the nose wheel hubs were concave, unlike most of the Gannets I've seen. Anyone know if the T.5s ever carried any sort of inert/practice weapons (torpedoes, depth bombs, sacks of flour, etc?) I'd love to put something in that vast, empty weapons bay, but couldn't find any references... Anyway, here's the result--hope you enjoy! -Arie

All, Pictures of my completed WNW Sopwith Triplane kit. Built OOB, brush painted and rigged with Prym knitting elastic and Uschi thread. I hope I have not included too many pictures. Constructive criticism welcome. Regards Dave

I came upon this decal set and thought i had not seen the scheme before so had to do it. Syhart decals.Model air paints.My first inflight display so aircrew added.Forgot to take off the bumps on the wing. _MG_9464 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9463 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9462 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr Glyn

I have a few builds to show.This built out of box.model air paints used.I like this sceme. _MG_9477 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9476 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9475 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9474 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr Better than grey i think. Glyn

Well the whole alclad chrome idea was a bad one . Yuk! Compressor 2 then had a bath in Dettol and benefited from some alclad aluminium and a black oil wash - just like it's brother.... I quite like how the seamless ducting and compressors look - if anyone is mad enough to squint down the intake S'pose it's time to stop faffing about with silly diversions and try and actually progress these little'uns It would at least show that we're not just indoor hobby anoraks Note to self. Remember to make a silicone mould. Note to self remember to ..........

#5/2016 And my dad finished a second one today. Trumpeter kit with decals from the CA kit. Regarding the a/c number, the 8 has to be exchanged with a 9. Added the missing gunsight from the sparesbox and used a plastic rod for the missing headrest support strut. The Classic Airframes decals were a bit brittle and partly little pieces came off before sealing so some repainting was done. EZ Line for the aerials, painted with Gunze and Tamiya acrylics. Model shows an a/c that was used during the hoax invasion in Operation Starkey August/September 1943.

#4/2016 In autumn 1944 a Hungarian fighterbomber group, the 102nd, was built up with former Ju87 and Ju88 pilots, filling two squadrons. In total they received about 78 used and new Fw190, mostly F-8 but also a few F-4 and G-8. It wasn´t easy for the pilots to transfer from the slow Stuka to the potent 190, so besides battle losses they also lost a/c and pilots in accidents. Nevertheless the Hungarian pilots had some success against the advancing Red Army but had to retreat more and more to the west. On March 27th 1945 the 102nd entered Austrian territory and was stationed in the area of Wiener Neustadt and flew sorties in the Vienna and St. Pölten area. On April 10th the flew their last combat sortie and retreated with the last 7 remaining aircraft to Upper-Austria where these a/c were destroyed on the ground on April 16-17th by strafing USAAF a/c. The Hungarian personal and their families then marched on foot to Pocking/Bavaria where they became POWs of the US Army. Hasegawa kit with Techmod decals, painted with Gunze and Tamiya acrylics, aerials with EZ Line. Model shows an a/c of 102/2 fighterbomber squadron. The book "Hungarian Fighter Colours" by Denes Bernad and György Punka was used as reference. and the whole MKHL gang together

I started to build these a while back but they ended up on the shelf of doom for a time.Anyway they are done now. Model air paint apart from humbrol dessert pink.Xtradecal decals i think? _MG_9470 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9469 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9468 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9467 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9466 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9465 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr Different from the norm i hope. Glyn

I made this late last year and it was my first model for about 20 years. Brush painted with humbrol paints and washed with Flory models dark dirt (I got a bit carried away with the weathering!). I also gave it a "matt" finish at the end but didn't shake the bottle enough so it it went all glossy & horrible so I had to fix that . Still happy with it for my first real build though. Really enjoyed the kit and it's clear these new tool kits are a thousand years ahead of some of the models I built when I was younger. I thought this would be a one off but I'm nearly at the end of building a 109 and bought a compressor the other week to finish this new one off. Comments welcome. Thanks for looking.

Stew, if I come across anything else I'll let you know - like a canary in a coal mine. Jason, in the states the Tamiya kit kind be found for very cheap on Amazon, sometimes you have to wait like six weeks for it to arrive though. Since we're confessing, I don't have an Il-2 kit in the stash yet, but I have a pretty dang good reference book though. Perhaps you know it. K, thanks for putting this Group Build together. Rob, it's Corsair time my friend. Well, I got up the gumption to file down the wing tips using a nice diagram as my guide. I used the divot (shaded in with pencil on the wing on the left) as a guide - it's just outside the outboard most wing rib, which basically marks the location of the new shortened wing tip. Both done. Not quite symmetrical, but good enough for Cookie work. Switching over to the Kiwi Corsair, most pics seem to show drooped elevators, like the Spitfire. I have to say that it turned out to be much more of a task than I anticipated. They still need some filler, but I think it will turn out OK. I don't know if I'll attempt it on the RN bird. Oh, the wings are on too - sorry I didn't get a better pic of them. Stew, I noticed with this one and with 'Tiny' that you can sand the wing a little to keep the rear seam flush with the fuselage, otherwise it stands a little proud. I'll try and take pics when I attach the FAA wing.

This is the weekend edition built from the box with antenae added. model air paints used. _MG_9473 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9472 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9471 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr Wish i had seen this in the flesh.it now sits rotting away. Glyn

Hello, It's been a while. Have been busy doing some work around the house again, modeling two rooms with nice effect, but finally managed to finished this German Truck. This was my first go on an ICM kit. I was really surprised by the number of details but then while working on the chassis I started to wonder how on earth did they managed to mould such thin parts and.. why would you do that anyway, as you basically can't see anything when model is completed.. This is one of these models you may label "overengineered". One more problem was with fitting the larger parts with each other, like cabin to the chassis.. Decided to put it on a small base: Enjoy: Now some big beast on the workshop - T90! Yeah! Thanks, Bart

Airfix Hawker Hurricane Mk1 1/24 A50167 First attempt at a larger scale kit, it went together not too badly especially after purchasing it and reading it was so old. It has had its first prang already as I have managed to knock the tailwheel off when taking the photos. I will also need to remember and take photos of the cockpit during the build as I cannot get the camera close enough now it is built. All build straight out of the box.

During the BoB GB I noticed / learned a lot, including a few things relevant to this thread: The Airfix new tool Hurricane is too early, but a nice kit. It has a nice black and white scheme OOB for L1584 from 1938 The Airfix new tool Blenheim MkI is a nice kit but doesn't have the gun pack that I needed for my build of L1105. This post told me that the Mk IVF comes with two gun packs so I bought the kit and used the shallow pack. I now have 'the rest' of the kit which has a nice black and white scheme for N8239 and The Xtradecal BoB sheet X72117 has a Spitfire MkI from 74 Sqn that has a nice black and white scheme for K9867. Can you see where I'm going here? A trio of black and whites. Here are the kits: Usual protracted WiP thread here, warts and all! Yes, I did copy and paste the intro... Badger Stynylrez primer for the black, AK white primer for the white, Vallejo model air for the brown all airbrushed. H30 for the DG, brush painted. AK True Metal Aluminium for the bottoms with dark aluminium on some Hurricane panels. Vallejo Matt on Blenheim and Hurricane. W&N matt on the Spit (now my matt of choice). Even the pilot appears to be smiling: The (perhaps) overdone weathering on this and the others is thanks to a disastrous experience with AK white primer which peeled on me. The general opinion is that it's great for armour and, er, weathered aircraft. Be gentle with me! I also had some 'fun' trying gouache weathering for the first time. I need more practice: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr Leaving the best until last, of course: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr Thanks for looking

Hi everybody; the march towards the priming stage continues, and I actually painted something last night. Let's see: remember the central canopy PE? They overhang a bit from the clear plastic, as you can see (as an example) in next pic: the yellow line is the actual plastic part, the rest is the PE overhang, and it has to go. So out came the Dremel with a sanding disc: much better now. This sanding disc is very flexible, so if you set a medium/low speed and do it carefully, it's a pretty easy job. Luckily, these PE parts reacted very well to the treatment, meaning that they would sand down without insisting too much on them. A little more of test fitting: Next is the front IP coaming: before Installing it, I wanted to scratch build the gunsight. Here's the starting point: coaming, the usual beer can cutout and a piece of 0.2mm styrene sheet Gluing with CA leveling the styrene front side On the old PE fret I used for my F-4J build, there's a gunsight structure, which is too big for the F-4C; the latter used a much smaller, manually operated aiming device. For this reason, I only used the side brackets: again, glued in with CA Checking for interference with the windshield, everything looks fine: Time for some paint; I airbrushed a mix of Future and Lifecolor Matt Black, straight on the bare plastic (with a blob of blue tack to mask the gunsight screen): Central canopy was sprayed the same way, focusing on the internal part: I then removed the blue tack masking and added quite some drops of Tamiya Gloss Clear, to simulate the lens/screen: That's it for now, next is going to be gluing in place both the coaming and the central canopy, complete the gunsight and do the windshield (PEs, transparent blue tinting, etc) Comments welcome Ciao

Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

Really nice kit this one.Starfighter decals.Humbrol blue and modelair the rest. I believe used for target dragging? _MG_9456 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9455 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9454 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9453 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr I recommend this kit. Glyn

Today I have mostly been playing with bits of etch, adding some surface deatails: Overwing fuel fillers: Then the various strengthening ribs: The forward camera apertures: I think we are about ready for primer now. I wasn't happy with the resin Air Sample Pipes cast on the base of the nose, so I replaced them with pieces of Albion Alloys tubing: I then proceeded to scratch up the ramp 'bumper': And add an etched tail (rear fuselage) bumper: I guess we are about ready for primer now.

On thats not a giant bottle of glue...

So I got bored of sanding (and if I'm honest, of the model as a whole) so decided to attack it with some paint. I haven't quite gotten used to these Tamiya paints and the thinning ratios but a managed to pull something that after some touch-ups (ie. where there's no paint on at all) should look OK after a quick polish with some micromesh. et voila

Ok enough chatter on with the main event... I chopped the main airframe parts off of the sprue. The JLC razor saw was really good here and the plastic is nice to work with. A bit of fettling and a quick tape up. Fit is pretty good it'll need a bit of filler here and there. But so did my first car... I also made a start on the cockpit bits from the Revell kit. Adding some seat belts from aluminium tape and a bit of a filler plate from some plastic card. i'll work on the fit a bit more more so on the wing halves and there is a bit of clean up needed on the tail. Stay tuned plasto

Nice kit, I have 2 on order, but to me, seems rather spoilt by heavy weathering of panel lines, none of my photos show an excess of panel line detailing

Thank you I finished the second color . I thought it was little bright, like it stuck out like a sore thumb . So I took some Light ghost gray, highly thinned. I then sprayed that to tone down the Med. ghost gray . I believe it looks so much better . Enjoy Rick

Come wind, rain or shine, here come the little northern rascal's, That was definitely a one off for me - a good learn but never again ... Cheers - John

WIP can be found here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234986850-tamiya-honda-nsr500-1984/ Detail Up Sets Used: Hobby Design Detail Up Set Top Studio Clutch Set Top Studio Steering Damper Top Studio Chain Set Decals: Tamiya Kit Decals Tabu Option Decal (for the Michelin logo on the rear swingarm) Nuts and Bolts: Various T2M, Top Studio and RB Motion Wiring and Cables: T2M, MFH, Tamiya Kit Tubing and Sakatsu Solder Wire Paint: Alclad Metalizers (Frame, and Components) Tamiya Semi Gloss Black TS-29 Decanted (Engine, Front Uprights, Wheel Rims) Alclad Grey Primer Zero Paints Honda NSR500 '84 Red and White (Cowlings) Tamiya TS15 Blue (Cowlings) Zero Paints 2K Clear Some detail shots And here are the cowlings completed, they will not be displayed for the time being until I figure out how to hang them convincingly

Hello everyone! This is I think my first post in several months. This is the Gladiator I've finished last year. Built straight from the box with only belts, lights and rigging added. Painted with vallejo acrylics

Hi all, My first model finished this year and it's another 1/72 Harrier to add to my growing collection. Nice little kit the only problem I had was with the fit of the small LERX, I just couldn't get it to sit down so I used the larger one although this is probably incorrect for this airframe. On this build I used a Pavla resin ejection seat and a jet nozzle set. I decided not to add weapons as I think they detract from the aircraft, plus I dislike making them... to fiddly! Painted with Xtracolor enamels, followed by an oil wash then weathered with pastel chalks. Thanks for looking, construtive criticism welcomed, gazza l Alongside her predecessors, also from Airfix.

Just finished my F-15C build, I did have a WIP thread here but unfortunately I didn't update it for a year. The main build thread is largescale planes forum if you're interested........I have done lots of builds here so apologies for straying!!! http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=54151 Sat next to my 1/48 Wild Boar which is on Britmodeller...

In conjunction with my first Spitfire build I bought an ancient (1973) Typhoon kit on eBay and had an easier time with it. Here are the results... I notice I have incorrectly masked the camouflage line below the nose and the supplied decals were difficult to apply due to their age. Mal.

Ah well, again...not to me they don't. Maybe when you build yours you can paint it to your liking.

This is the 1/72 scale released a few years ago. Nice little kit, but I couldn't help myself and riveted the whole thing. Just like Dario and his 1/48 Spit, I used my forgotten Floquil Old Silver and I'll tell you - what a great paint! Hope you like it: See you Rato Marczak www.ratomodeling.com

No photos, but more progress. I added the little intake, and all of the (very frustrating) PE vortex generators. Much easier earlier, but of course they're astride the fin flash, so one can't really add them until it's added. This was probably another bright idea from the sadist who spread the Hawker Hunter's underwing serials over about eight MLG doors. Anyway, this kit is almost done-zo. There are one or two more decals to add (what I believe to be radiotransparent covers for bomb-aiming radar on the underbelly...and then dullcoat. Very excited.

**PAINTING** Summary so far: Stiff plastic if not slightly brittle A good fit and crisply moulded Too many visible ejector pin marks Recommended Timeline: 15th February 2016 It's been a few days as other projects are running in tandem with this one and with the delay in getting to the spray booth and paints I apologise for the delay. Airbrushes thoroughly cleaned, serviced and ready to go. A very straight forward undercoat of Vallejo Model Air Matt Black but this time I added about 10% Thinner by volume Next day, I sprayed Vallejo Model Air Sand again thinned by about 20% to give a fine coating inpreparation for the IDF Sand later I'm planning on using the AMMO IDF Set and their early Sand/Grey for the 1967 conflict Next Time: More paint

Lots of sub-assemblies completed, and dry-fitted together for photographic purposes. Tyres on limber carrier and gun yet to be worn. I am really enjoying this build. Barring just a couple of bad fits, it's all gone swimmingly. Looking forward to getting some paint on this beauty. Thanks for looking. Badder.

I do like your pics and the model looks great but, I don't ever remember on my ATC summer camps to RA F bases ever seeing a Shackleton with all those gaudy dark lines on them. Personally I think you have spoiled a good model. JMTPW but then I'm not into weathering my models. Colin

Gone

Well surely the Génoise is a sort of Italian pastry, though, and if Lady Hamilton proves one thing, it's that he loved a bit of tart in Sardinia...

Sea blue arrived and double coated, glad I went for the xtracrlix, would never have got it right next will be the little dash of colour, two options either a red or yellow one, going for the red, the question is do I use humbrol 60, or Revells own recommendation of Camine, red, I have both, if only the Federal standard number was listed.....

You ought to be proud of this one PC, raising a Winston and still experimenting with resin, Alclad, and tiny tiny PE vortex generators.

Getting there. Hope to have her finished tonight, by the latest tomorrow. Here is a panel line wash with AK Interactive Paneliner.

Update time, and I know what my Photobucket issues were, here's hoping they are fixed from now on. I have the painting done. I went with the technique suggested by Doog's Models, that being lay a black base down first then build it up from there. It worked really well on the underside lighter colur, and ok on the top, though I did do a bit of random spraying with a lighted colour to provide a subtle tone shift. I have also sprayed the first gloss clear coat in preparation for decals, which I should be able to apply tonight.

Nice shack. I do have to agree with some of the others, I really think you may have gone over the top with the weathering, looks a fantastic kit, but with all my reference photos and experience i don't think i've seen them weathered like that. Your choice of DSG is good for a faded look on the shackle You win some, you lose some

So, so, so close now. And just to give you an idea of her size:

Tah-da! 1/76 Matilda is done! Base also done - Caunter colours, El-Alamein - slightly off historically - no Caunter camo left by El-alamein time, but, artistic licence :-) Enjoy - crit always welcome! Maybe too much weathering....not sure!

In this post I will cut out the opening of the landing gear bay in the wing. In the SBD Dauntless its shape consists a rectangle and a circle: However, when you look closer, you will notice that the contour of the main wheel bay is not perfectly circular. There is a small deformation of its shape on the leading edge (see picture above). I think that it looks in this way because of the technological reasons. Another feature of this opening is the fragment “cut out” in the bottom part of the fuselage, below the wing. (We will make it when we will form the fuselage). I started by applying all the information that was confirmed by the general arrangement drawing and various technical descriptions: the main wheel used 30”x7” tire. Its center was placed 18.5” from the firewall (measured along the global Y axis) The X coordinate of the wheel center can be determined by the location of the root rib (10”) + small gap + tire radius (30”/2) ≈ 26”. Then I tried to put around the main wheel a test contour of the opening in the wing: Initially I thought that I will recreate this opening by embedding a subdivided octagonal hole in the wing mesh, as I did in my P-40 model (see Vol. II of the “Virtual Airplane” guide). However, when I created an appropriate octagon around the wheel, I discovered that one of its vertices lies outside the wing mesh (see figure a), above). You cannot compose such a contour into the wing. Therefore I decided to create this opening using another Boolean modifier, as I did in the case of the fixed slats (described in one of the previous posts). I prepared the basic contour of the “cutting tool” — a smooth circle based on a 16-vertex polygon (as in figure "b", above). The fragment of the main wheel opening that “touches” the wing leading edge seems to be flatten a little (see the first picture in this post). To obtain such an effect I rotated the “cutting tool” object (the ring) by a few degrees so its Y axis was perpendicular to the leading edge. Then I shifted a little the single edge of this ring along the Y axis, fitting it into the wing: By small movement of these two vertices I was able to precisely recreate the shape of this opening visible on the photos: If I do not want to get the inner part of the “cutting ring” inside the resulting opening, I have to assign to this wing mesh a sheet metal thickness (using the Solidify modifier – as in picture below): Because the forward and rear part of the wing are separated, I can use this Solidify modifier only in the front part. In this way I do not increase the polygon count of this model with unnecessary faces. As you can see in the picture above, I also created a second “cutting object” — a box. I will use it to recreate the rectangular opening around the landing gear leg. Both of these tool objects are located on a single layer (9) which will be hidden during rendering. Their parent is the rear part of the center wing section (to avoid dependency conflict with the front part of the wing). Finally I assigned both of these “cutting” objects to the Boolean (Difference) modifiers of the wing skin (The same method as used for the fixed slats). You can see the result in picture below: It would be quite difficult to recreate such an opening by altering the control mesh of the wing skin. It also would make its shape more complex, and difficult to unwrap in the UV space (for the textures). The openings created by Boolean modifiers have another advantage: it is very easy to modify their contours. I had to do this just after I created these holes. I discovered that I made minor error in the reference drawing: the landing gear leg opening should lie a little bit back. (Its centerline should pass through the landing gear wheel center All what I had to do was to shift back the auxiliary box object, which creates this opening. So easy! On the other hand, I observed small shadows caused by triangular faces created by the Boolean modifiers along edges of this opening. It was impossible to remove them in the typical way — using the Auto Smooth option or the Edge Split modifier. The only solution was to increase (from 2 to 4) the level of the Subdivision Surface modifier assigned to the wing surface object. It increased 16 times the number of resulting smooth faces created from this mesh. Fortunately, I split the wing into two parts, so I could set keep such a dense mesh only around the area where it is needed. In this source *.blend file you can check all details of the wing presented in this post. In the next post I will create main spars and ribs, visible inside this opening.