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Eritrean Su-27 from Eduard - Academy on steroids ..... but added some scratch and: Nozzle - Aires, weapons, wheels - Eduard, ladder - NorthStar and wheel bay from Wolpack.

OOB model...

Hi all, here my latest build. The new Shackleton AEW2 by Revell in 1:72. It`s a late test-shoot I received by Revell in December. There should be only minor changes to the finished kit. Add some Eduard eatched parts and used DSG colours by Gunze.

Here it is, all complete. I planned on doing a diorama with this airplane, but the figure set I got was way out of scale. It was very disappointing. The build though went very well. This kit has great fit. I previously built the new tool Spitfire, and the fit on that kit was not good at all. Not the case here. I used Tamiya Sky and RAF Dark Green, and used Model Master Acryl for the Dark Earth. All the paints went down great. Overall impressions: Airfix seems to make good kits for the price. I really enjoyed this particular kit. It has good detail and excellent fit. Some things I did not like: Airfix kits seem to have very thick plastic. In combination with this, the sprue attachment points are very thick. Also, the plastic has a very rough surface, especially on the inside of the fuselage and wings. It was fine with this being a flat finish, but if one were to do a metal finish, it would take much work to smooth the plastic out. I would certainly recommend this kit. It is a very good kit, especially when you consider the price. I paid $20 USD.

I love this scheme but not the kit.I hope the hobbyboss one is better. Model air paints and out the box build. _MG_9461 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9459 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9457 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr Glyn

Well, having built Trumpeter & Frog's Gannets, and nearly scratch-building an AEW.3 with scant help from Airmodel's vacuform conversion--Revell's raises few complaints! I truly enjoyed building this one--the detail is great, the fit is fantastic, and it looks the part. I opted for the weathered paint look the retired bird acquired in civilian life, but left off the civy registration to keep the operational feel--I'm not sure what the Puma logos on the aft fuselage are for either. My only niggles was the usual, matt finish of Revell's decals, the fact that is well nigh impossible to pack enough weight in the nose to keep it on its undercarriage, and the fact that the nose wheel hubs were concave, unlike most of the Gannets I've seen. Anyone know if the T.5s ever carried any sort of inert/practice weapons (torpedoes, depth bombs, sacks of flour, etc?) I'd love to put something in that vast, empty weapons bay, but couldn't find any references... Anyway, here's the result--hope you enjoy! -Arie

All, Pictures of my completed WNW Sopwith Triplane kit. Built OOB, brush painted and rigged with Prym knitting elastic and Uschi thread. I hope I have not included too many pictures. Constructive criticism welcome. Regards Dave

I came upon this decal set and thought i had not seen the scheme before so had to do it. Syhart decals.Model air paints.My first inflight display so aircrew added.Forgot to take off the bumps on the wing. _MG_9464 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9463 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9462 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr Glyn

I have a few builds to show.This built out of box.model air paints used.I like this sceme. _MG_9477 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9476 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9475 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9474 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr Better than grey i think. Glyn

Well the whole alclad chrome idea was a bad one . Yuk! Compressor 2 then had a bath in Dettol and benefited from some alclad aluminium and a black oil wash - just like it's brother.... I quite like how the seamless ducting and compressors look - if anyone is mad enough to squint down the intake S'pose it's time to stop faffing about with silly diversions and try and actually progress these little'uns It would at least show that we're not just indoor hobby anoraks Note to self. Remember to make a silicone mould. Note to self remember to ..........

#5/2016 And my dad finished a second one today. Trumpeter kit with decals from the CA kit. Regarding the a/c number, the 8 has to be exchanged with a 9. Added the missing gunsight from the sparesbox and used a plastic rod for the missing headrest support strut. The Classic Airframes decals were a bit brittle and partly little pieces came off before sealing so some repainting was done. EZ Line for the aerials, painted with Gunze and Tamiya acrylics. Model shows an a/c that was used during the hoax invasion in Operation Starkey August/September 1943.

#4/2016 In autumn 1944 a Hungarian fighterbomber group, the 102nd, was built up with former Ju87 and Ju88 pilots, filling two squadrons. In total they received about 78 used and new Fw190, mostly F-8 but also a few F-4 and G-8. It wasn´t easy for the pilots to transfer from the slow Stuka to the potent 190, so besides battle losses they also lost a/c and pilots in accidents. Nevertheless the Hungarian pilots had some success against the advancing Red Army but had to retreat more and more to the west. On March 27th 1945 the 102nd entered Austrian territory and was stationed in the area of Wiener Neustadt and flew sorties in the Vienna and St. Pölten area. On April 10th the flew their last combat sortie and retreated with the last 7 remaining aircraft to Upper-Austria where these a/c were destroyed on the ground on April 16-17th by strafing USAAF a/c. The Hungarian personal and their families then marched on foot to Pocking/Bavaria where they became POWs of the US Army. Hasegawa kit with Techmod decals, painted with Gunze and Tamiya acrylics, aerials with EZ Line. Model shows an a/c of 102/2 fighterbomber squadron. The book "Hungarian Fighter Colours" by Denes Bernad and György Punka was used as reference. and the whole MKHL gang together

I started to build these a while back but they ended up on the shelf of doom for a time.Anyway they are done now. Model air paint apart from humbrol dessert pink.Xtradecal decals i think? _MG_9470 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9469 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9468 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9467 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9466 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9465 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr Different from the norm i hope. Glyn

I made this late last year and it was my first model for about 20 years. Brush painted with humbrol paints and washed with Flory models dark dirt (I got a bit carried away with the weathering!). I also gave it a "matt" finish at the end but didn't shake the bottle enough so it it went all glossy & horrible so I had to fix that . Still happy with it for my first real build though. Really enjoyed the kit and it's clear these new tool kits are a thousand years ahead of some of the models I built when I was younger. I thought this would be a one off but I'm nearly at the end of building a 109 and bought a compressor the other week to finish this new one off. Comments welcome. Thanks for looking.

Stew, if I come across anything else I'll let you know - like a canary in a coal mine. Jason, in the states the Tamiya kit kind be found for very cheap on Amazon, sometimes you have to wait like six weeks for it to arrive though. Since we're confessing, I don't have an Il-2 kit in the stash yet, but I have a pretty dang good reference book though. Perhaps you know it. K, thanks for putting this Group Build together. Rob, it's Corsair time my friend. Well, I got up the gumption to file down the wing tips using a nice diagram as my guide. I used the divot (shaded in with pencil on the wing on the left) as a guide - it's just outside the outboard most wing rib, which basically marks the location of the new shortened wing tip. Both done. Not quite symmetrical, but good enough for Cookie work. Switching over to the Kiwi Corsair, most pics seem to show drooped elevators, like the Spitfire. I have to say that it turned out to be much more of a task than I anticipated. They still need some filler, but I think it will turn out OK. I don't know if I'll attempt it on the RN bird. Oh, the wings are on too - sorry I didn't get a better pic of them. Stew, I noticed with this one and with 'Tiny' that you can sand the wing a little to keep the rear seam flush with the fuselage, otherwise it stands a little proud. I'll try and take pics when I attach the FAA wing.

This is the weekend edition built from the box with antenae added. model air paints used. _MG_9473 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9472 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9471 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr Wish i had seen this in the flesh.it now sits rotting away. Glyn

Hello, It's been a while. Have been busy doing some work around the house again, modeling two rooms with nice effect, but finally managed to finished this German Truck. This was my first go on an ICM kit. I was really surprised by the number of details but then while working on the chassis I started to wonder how on earth did they managed to mould such thin parts and.. why would you do that anyway, as you basically can't see anything when model is completed.. This is one of these models you may label "overengineered". One more problem was with fitting the larger parts with each other, like cabin to the chassis.. Decided to put it on a small base: Enjoy: Now some big beast on the workshop - T90! Yeah! Thanks, Bart

Airfix Hawker Hurricane Mk1 1/24 A50167 First attempt at a larger scale kit, it went together not too badly especially after purchasing it and reading it was so old. It has had its first prang already as I have managed to knock the tailwheel off when taking the photos. I will also need to remember and take photos of the cockpit during the build as I cannot get the camera close enough now it is built. All build straight out of the box.

During the BoB GB I noticed / learned a lot, including a few things relevant to this thread: The Airfix new tool Hurricane is too early, but a nice kit. It has a nice black and white scheme OOB for L1584 from 1938 The Airfix new tool Blenheim MkI is a nice kit but doesn't have the gun pack that I needed for my build of L1105. This post told me that the Mk IVF comes with two gun packs so I bought the kit and used the shallow pack. I now have 'the rest' of the kit which has a nice black and white scheme for N8239 and The Xtradecal BoB sheet X72117 has a Spitfire MkI from 74 Sqn that has a nice black and white scheme for K9867. Can you see where I'm going here? A trio of black and whites. Here are the kits: Usual protracted WiP thread here, warts and all! Yes, I did copy and paste the intro... Badger Stynylrez primer for the black, AK white primer for the white, Vallejo model air for the brown all airbrushed. H30 for the DG, brush painted. AK True Metal Aluminium for the bottoms with dark aluminium on some Hurricane panels. Vallejo Matt on Blenheim and Hurricane. W&N matt on the Spit (now my matt of choice). Even the pilot appears to be smiling: The (perhaps) overdone weathering on this and the others is thanks to a disastrous experience with AK white primer which peeled on me. The general opinion is that it's great for armour and, er, weathered aircraft. Be gentle with me! I also had some 'fun' trying gouache weathering for the first time. I need more practice: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr Leaving the best until last, of course: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr Thanks for looking

Hi everybody; the march towards the priming stage continues, and I actually painted something last night. Let's see: remember the central canopy PE? They overhang a bit from the clear plastic, as you can see (as an example) in next pic: the yellow line is the actual plastic part, the rest is the PE overhang, and it has to go. So out came the Dremel with a sanding disc: much better now. This sanding disc is very flexible, so if you set a medium/low speed and do it carefully, it's a pretty easy job. Luckily, these PE parts reacted very well to the treatment, meaning that they would sand down without insisting too much on them. A little more of test fitting: Next is the front IP coaming: before Installing it, I wanted to scratch build the gunsight. Here's the starting point: coaming, the usual beer can cutout and a piece of 0.2mm styrene sheet Gluing with CA leveling the styrene front side On the old PE fret I used for my F-4J build, there's a gunsight structure, which is too big for the F-4C; the latter used a much smaller, manually operated aiming device. For this reason, I only used the side brackets: again, glued in with CA Checking for interference with the windshield, everything looks fine: Time for some paint; I airbrushed a mix of Future and Lifecolor Matt Black, straight on the bare plastic (with a blob of blue tack to mask the gunsight screen): Central canopy was sprayed the same way, focusing on the internal part: I then removed the blue tack masking and added quite some drops of Tamiya Gloss Clear, to simulate the lens/screen: That's it for now, next is going to be gluing in place both the coaming and the central canopy, complete the gunsight and do the windshield (PEs, transparent blue tinting, etc) Comments welcome Ciao

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Really nice kit this one.Starfighter decals.Humbrol blue and modelair the rest. I believe used for target dragging? _MG_9456 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9455 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9454 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr _MG_9453 by Glyn Fuller, on Flickr I recommend this kit. Glyn

Today I have mostly been playing with bits of etch, adding some surface deatails: Overwing fuel fillers: Then the various strengthening ribs: The forward camera apertures: I think we are about ready for primer now. I wasn't happy with the resin Air Sample Pipes cast on the base of the nose, so I replaced them with pieces of Albion Alloys tubing: I then proceeded to scratch up the ramp 'bumper': And add an etched tail (rear fuselage) bumper: I guess we are about ready for primer now.

On thats not a giant bottle of glue...

So I got bored of sanding (and if I'm honest, of the model as a whole) so decided to attack it with some paint. I haven't quite gotten used to these Tamiya paints and the thinning ratios but a managed to pull something that after some touch-ups (ie. where there's no paint on at all) should look OK after a quick polish with some micromesh. et voila

Ok enough chatter on with the main event... I chopped the main airframe parts off of the sprue. The JLC razor saw was really good here and the plastic is nice to work with. A bit of fettling and a quick tape up. Fit is pretty good it'll need a bit of filler here and there. But so did my first car... I also made a start on the cockpit bits from the Revell kit. Adding some seat belts from aluminium tape and a bit of a filler plate from some plastic card. i'll work on the fit a bit more more so on the wing halves and there is a bit of clean up needed on the tail. Stay tuned plasto

Nice kit, I have 2 on order, but to me, seems rather spoilt by heavy weathering of panel lines, none of my photos show an excess of panel line detailing

Thank you I finished the second color . I thought it was little bright, like it stuck out like a sore thumb . So I took some Light ghost gray, highly thinned. I then sprayed that to tone down the Med. ghost gray . I believe it looks so much better . Enjoy Rick

Come wind, rain or shine, here come the little northern rascal's, That was definitely a one off for me - a good learn but never again ... Cheers - John

WIP can be found here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234986850-tamiya-honda-nsr500-1984/ Detail Up Sets Used: Hobby Design Detail Up Set Top Studio Clutch Set Top Studio Steering Damper Top Studio Chain Set Decals: Tamiya Kit Decals Tabu Option Decal (for the Michelin logo on the rear swingarm) Nuts and Bolts: Various T2M, Top Studio and RB Motion Wiring and Cables: T2M, MFH, Tamiya Kit Tubing and Sakatsu Solder Wire Paint: Alclad Metalizers (Frame, and Components) Tamiya Semi Gloss Black TS-29 Decanted (Engine, Front Uprights, Wheel Rims) Alclad Grey Primer Zero Paints Honda NSR500 '84 Red and White (Cowlings) Tamiya TS15 Blue (Cowlings) Zero Paints 2K Clear Some detail shots And here are the cowlings completed, they will not be displayed for the time being until I figure out how to hang them convincingly

Hello everyone! This is I think my first post in several months. This is the Gladiator I've finished last year. Built straight from the box with only belts, lights and rigging added. Painted with vallejo acrylics

Hi all, My first model finished this year and it's another 1/72 Harrier to add to my growing collection. Nice little kit the only problem I had was with the fit of the small LERX, I just couldn't get it to sit down so I used the larger one although this is probably incorrect for this airframe. On this build I used a Pavla resin ejection seat and a jet nozzle set. I decided not to add weapons as I think they detract from the aircraft, plus I dislike making them... to fiddly! Painted with Xtracolor enamels, followed by an oil wash then weathered with pastel chalks. Thanks for looking, construtive criticism welcomed, gazza l Alongside her predecessors, also from Airfix.

Just finished my F-15C build, I did have a WIP thread here but unfortunately I didn't update it for a year. The main build thread is largescale planes forum if you're interested........I have done lots of builds here so apologies for straying!!! http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=54151 Sat next to my 1/48 Wild Boar which is on Britmodeller...

In conjunction with my first Spitfire build I bought an ancient (1973) Typhoon kit on eBay and had an easier time with it. Here are the results... I notice I have incorrectly masked the camouflage line below the nose and the supplied decals were difficult to apply due to their age. Mal.

Ah well, again...not to me they don't. Maybe when you build yours you can paint it to your liking.

This is the 1/72 scale released a few years ago. Nice little kit, but I couldn't help myself and riveted the whole thing. Just like Dario and his 1/48 Spit, I used my forgotten Floquil Old Silver and I'll tell you - what a great paint! Hope you like it: See you Rato Marczak www.ratomodeling.com

No photos, but more progress. I added the little intake, and all of the (very frustrating) PE vortex generators. Much easier earlier, but of course they're astride the fin flash, so one can't really add them until it's added. This was probably another bright idea from the sadist who spread the Hawker Hunter's underwing serials over about eight MLG doors. Anyway, this kit is almost done-zo. There are one or two more decals to add (what I believe to be radiotransparent covers for bomb-aiming radar on the underbelly...and then dullcoat. Very excited.

**PAINTING** Summary so far: Stiff plastic if not slightly brittle A good fit and crisply moulded Too many visible ejector pin marks Recommended Timeline: 15th February 2016 It's been a few days as other projects are running in tandem with this one and with the delay in getting to the spray booth and paints I apologise for the delay. Airbrushes thoroughly cleaned, serviced and ready to go. A very straight forward undercoat of Vallejo Model Air Matt Black but this time I added about 10% Thinner by volume Next day, I sprayed Vallejo Model Air Sand again thinned by about 20% to give a fine coating inpreparation for the IDF Sand later I'm planning on using the AMMO IDF Set and their early Sand/Grey for the 1967 conflict Next Time: More paint

Lots of sub-assemblies completed, and dry-fitted together for photographic purposes. Tyres on limber carrier and gun yet to be worn. I am really enjoying this build. Barring just a couple of bad fits, it's all gone swimmingly. Looking forward to getting some paint on this beauty. Thanks for looking. Badder.

I do like your pics and the model looks great but, I don't ever remember on my ATC summer camps to RA F bases ever seeing a Shackleton with all those gaudy dark lines on them. Personally I think you have spoiled a good model. JMTPW but then I'm not into weathering my models. Colin

Apologies for the messy title, but this is going to be a lengthy build in parts; first part is a district harbour tug, second a major warship, finally a portion of dockside, to make up a small diorama. I wanted to do the chosen ship for a while, then decided to do her alongside. I got hold of Alliance Modelworks 1:350 Woban class district harbour tug, which was described as being widely used by the U.S. Navy throughout the war. I was originally planning to do this subject at Mare Island, but after quite a bit of research found that Woban class tugs didn't arrive there (12 Naval District) in the year I want to show my model (1942), but a few were serving in the 14th Naval District - Pearl Harbour, so that is where this will be based, which fits in well with this ship's activities at the right time. The Allaince Modelworks kit is very finely made, and is complete with ample resin parts and full set of photo-etch, and ample decals. This first stage included full assembly, including all required photo etch fitted. I normally limit initial building in major assemblies, but the small size of this kit made the whole thing like one assembly. Also the port holes had very little depth so I drilled them out to show a dark interior. Also the bridge windows were solid, so I took the gamble of drilling them out, and squaring the corners with a fine craft knife, as best as I could manage with the solid resin bridge. More to follow as this progresses.

After making some steel loads for my 1/24 Steel haulage, I received many request for a 'How-to' article on how I accomplished it. So, here goes. I tend to look for easier ways to achieve the end results with fewer procedures. Now my method is certainly not the only way, so if you know of a much easier method, by all means, use it. After-all, its the end result that counts. The materials used are ones I had on hand and are not a must, for doing these steps. An equivalent will do just fine. So you can download the PDF at this link: Steel out of Cardboards https://www.dropbox.com/s/shbxtnw6bnwis9y/Cardboard_Steel_tutorial.pdf?dl=0 At the link you can choose to print directly from the site or download it.

Thank you very much Rich and I am happy I did the work really! Hi John. Yes - good point about the propeller! ...and thank you. Thank you Hosbabon and I will try to! Hi Giemme and thank you. I will try and get hold of some Tamiya Green Cap and have a bit of an experiment. Thank you for the advice. Yep!! Thank you. Thank you Nigel but you wouldn't say that if you heard what I was uttering frequently while trying to do the wiring! Hi Sean and thank you too! It did test my patience at times! Hi Jaime and thank you too for your comments. I have my fingers crossed for you to get a good result from your exam! I will also be looking out for your update posts. This weekend I'm thinking I must really have an experiment with painting metallic finish paints with good old hairy sticks! I'll post the results when I do. Kind regards, Stix

CHAPTER VII - Radial engine(s) painting, weathering & mounting Setting as a task to build the model in such a way that all the maintenance hatches, removable doors, hoods & sliding panels would remain opened to make helicopter’s internal structure visible, building and later painting & weathering as required a 7-cylinder radial engine is something I should also take care of. Actually, the model’s observer can easily have a closer look inside the helicopter’s belly and also check detail on the - visible by any angle - engine details same time. Since the engine would be installed inside the helicopter's belly in the fuselage center-section, a second engine also 3D printed to be placed onto a wheeled stand and present it nearby helicopter, as it would be there for maintenance purposes - just a diorama scene idea. These two engines are almost identical with only difference that the first one is designed to fit into the helicopter’s transmission unit, while the second is equiped with a bezzel to fit a propeller and is designed to be displayed on the wheeled stand. For those who might be interested, both 7-cylinder radial engines are available HERE as 3D printed models under 1/16 and 1/18 scale, with or without the wheeled stand. As soon as both engine miniatures unpacked from plastic bags shipped from Shapeways and carefully examined, they were dipped into White Spirit for a couple of minutes to clean the oil & wax traces left from MJM process while 3D printing. Shortly after parts were washed and allowed to dry, a layer of Ammo Mig Jimenez AMIG2004 “White waterborne polymer primer” airbrushed over to spot cracks & imperfections and prepare for paintjob. Since I do not consider myself a highclass modeller and I had no experience to paint realistic way radial engines, I thought as a good idea to follow proven techniques described by Mr. Javier López de Anca García into the “Airplanes in scale - The greatest guide” book, hoping that I could achieve some decent results. Both engines received an overall base coat of Alclad II metal laquers. When metal paint completely dried, a dark oil paint wash followed using the “502 Abteilung” Black by MIG Productions. Later, the aluminum paint got some slightly different “burnt” tone, by airbrushing thinned MIG-098 Light Blue acrylic crystal around the base of each cylinder and some MIG-093 Red acrylic crystal around the head of each cylinder. The engine’s crown got some Life Color UA504 RLM 02 Grau acrylic paint and rivets shadowed with Dark Grey oil paint. As for the collector exhaust ring & pipes, they initially were painted with FS3004 Matt Burnt Umber available by Life Color as LC37 acrylic and later repeatedly washed with dense oil paint mixture of “Vandyke Brown” available by Winsor & Newton, thinned with White Spirit to a consistency between a filter and a wash. Some Light Rust available by AK Interactive as AK046 filter also randomly brushed on exhaust pipes.

Thanks. I'm surprised that the Duck's Bill fuel vent was used on the Tankers owing to the fact that there was a dedicated pipe fitted to the port side of the door about halfway along its length. IIRC you are right it was Wedge that went on 'Red ON, cut'. Working with Cadets is a lot of fun and I am hugely proud of mine. You are right about attention span though - I tend to get over that hurdle with some fairly direct 'Service' humour (I'm not very PC me!).

Thanks everyone for your comments. I have been very lazy on this build as it took me 4 weeks just to put the above photo's up. These next set of photographs show the progress a few days after the above had been taken. One of the advantages of flying long distance is that when you get home you cannot sleep and therefore spend more time in the early hours of the morning actually doing some modelling. I have not had time since to make any progress. Not the best of photographs with a single light source and a phone camera. Still have a number of details to add including the base and then I need to matt varnish everything as well.

All, Time for an update. The fuselage is coming on nicely. Seams are nearly sorted time to get the other major components ready to be built up ready for priming etc.... First job is to get the flame retardant tank installed an the vent/filler hose cut to length. Cut to length.... The central fuselage section was a blank void. I decided that it would look better if it matched the rest of the fuselage. (Ha ha once it's closed it'll hardly be seen, why do we do this)! Completed section... Next up I thought I'd get some work done on the engines... This is how the basic kit engine would look ready to go in... Firstly, I've installed the ignition ring... Next up I've added some push rods... These are made from painted poly rods. Installed and cut to length. Then I've fitted the ignition harness and some other plumbing.... Put all together, repeat and voila! I'm quite happy with that.... Next up, I'll sort out the wing seams and close it all up ready for priming.... Thanks for reading.. Leon

Quite possibly the most developed Lightning? A great kit from a renaissance Airfix which seems to be continually improving! Probably definitive Lightning kits in 1/72 and 1/48? . . . Kes

Nice model, horrible unrealistic paint job. Sorry, just my opinion!

I like Revell's take on the Shackleton, looks lean, mean and downright aggressive. Not too sure about the "Lego" paint-job though.