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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/26/2016 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    So, back in post #664 I queried the audience with regard to the appropriate size of some photoetch pieces. I got these off of a NASCAR fret and the actual application for the little buggers are 1:24 scale windshield clips. As it turns out, I thought they would work well as part of a 1:72 scale Firefly wing fold mechanism. Let's have a look at a picture of the actual wing: On the inner face of the outer wing (the area painted interior grey-green in the photo) you can see what looks like four grommets or sleeves, mounted at an angle relative to the axis of the wing. My guess, and that's purely what it is at this point, is that when the wing deploys into flight position there are some pins or axles of some kind that slide into these sleeves to lock the wing in place. Steve, help me out here - am I even close in describing what these are used for? With respect to a Firefly model with the wings folded, these grommets or sleeves will be quite visible. I got the idea of using the NASCAR windshield clips since they're about the right size, but more importantly the right shape. On the fret, these clips were flat, so I bent the bottom portion into a square angle which not only gives the correct height but also a small flat surface that the CA adhesive can stick to. Here is what we have after attaching to the wings: What do you think? Is the ruse successful? I've also done some weathering to the wings, and I think they're ready for their final varnish. I used some small diameter copper wire to make the guards that attach to the outer ends of the tailplanes but I'm not going to add these to the model until the wings are attached. Otherwise I think I'll just knock them off. What else is left? The Black Patch™, various antennae...oh, yeah, a jig to hold the wings in position while the glue dries. Hmmm... Cheers, Bill
  2. 4 points
    Spent some time this afternoon sorting bits & pieces....... including rope work . I've seen several pics with the tow rope fixed with a shackle to the bow reinforcing plate, so................. Thought you might like to see how I make shackles (Good for you Tanky guys ) Start by annealing your brass rod so it can easily be bent to shape I clamp it in a vice so I can cut the two legs too the length I want Cut two small tubes by rolling knife on tube. Note clean the end square before cutting then you know the drill bit will slide in one end easily. These are held in position on the drill bit against the ' U '. Apply solder, in this case solder paint. Apply heat You should be left with this. By leaving the bit in whilst soldering you know the tubes are in a straight line and your closing rod will slide in easily. You can of course replace the rod with a bolt and with a suitable tap you can make a working shackle. I hold the shackle with the drill bit whilst filing back the tube to the right size The finished result When the rain stops I'll flatten the end to complete the pin I hope this is of some use to you out there and I'm not teaching you to suck eggs As always thanks for stopping by Kev
  3. 3 points
    The wing folds look particularly effective. As to Moaning Dolphin's suggestion that we use blended whisky as fuel, is he trying to fly the aircraft or poison it? Martin
  4. 3 points
    The "grommets" are the wing fold latch pin fittings. Before the wing is spread the locking lever is moved to the unlock position as shown below When the wing is spread the lever is pushed back up into the "Locked" position which pushes the four latch pins through the corresponding holes in the latch pin fittings. The black patch on the port drop is indeed for the landing light. I fired up 388's electrics late last year and the landing light lights up the tank quite well. Video here for those with Farce burk https://www.facebook.com/1510750749175428/videos/1596344360616066/?video_source=pages_finch_thumbnail_video&theater
  5. 3 points
    Hello,Bonhoff - Good for you and go for it!! My build of this subject isn't very good but it was good fun and an enjoyable occasional 'change of subject' model.Good luck and enjoy! All the best,Paul.
  6. 3 points
    In the late 1950s the Norwegian RF-84Fs were camouflaged according to the NATO Standardization Agreement No. 3083 "Colouring and markings of aircraft for Tactical Reconnaissance". The colours were specified to be NATO Dark Green and NATO Dark Grey on the upper surfaces and NATO PRU Blue on lower surfaces. The paint work was done by Avio-Diepen at Ypenburg, with paint manufactured by Sikkens. The actual paint numbers were Sikkens 2662 (NATO Dark Green), Sikkens 2340 NATO Dark Grey) and Sikkens 2602 (NATO PRU Blue). I would thus assume that the same colours were used on Dutch aircraft. Taking my FS fan to Gardermoen where an RNoAF Thunderflash is displayed (still in its original upper surface colours – the lower surfaces were painted aluminium in the early 1960) reveals that the colours matches FS24079 and FS26118. Other sources (assumedly an RF-84F at the Sola museum) describe the lower surfaces as FS25109. Note that although the RAF/MAP and the NATO colours had same/similar names, the hues were not the equal. When it comes to NATO Dark Grey, this is is closer to RAF/MAP Extra Dark Sea Grey than to Dark Sea Grey (but still different). Nils
  7. 3 points
    Cheers guys. Focus is now on bringing the bits to life. Here's some of the airfield stuff painted although still need a coat of matt varnish.
  8. 3 points
    Thanks Foxy glad you like it so far So another small update first layer of silicone on base sides primed and painted also gave the silicone a coat of black as an under coat then started with the colors various green, blue grey and white then set the ship into base at a slight list to Port side as not trawling any nets will leave to dry out now for a couple of days ans get back to starting on the other diorama my Vosper dockside Beefy
  9. 3 points
    Told you it would look good Al !...great stuff old fella... Not sure about the wheel well colour though I seem to remember being told that they were chromate green as protection but not 100% sure, have to ask around our sig chaps. but as no ones going to be stupid enough to try and pick it up and turn it over I don't suppose it really matters that much, (unless of course you plan on using a mirror base ).... By thunder how many times have I heard that !...sometimes she's referring to the models as well.... Al, hang it from the bedroom ceiling...only way to go, you could relive the good old days... Don't fancy going for this scheme do you ! http://cdn-www.airliners.net/aviation-photos/photos/6/0/3/0747306.jpg
  10. 2 points
  11. 2 points
    With the base coat done, it's on to the camo. It was masked off with silly putty, then sprayed with Tamiya buff and highlighted with Tamiya deck tan. This is the reason I'm not keen on adding too much modulation on camo finishes. It's easy to do on the base coat but then you have to repeat the highlighting on all the subsequent camo colours. Anyway, the sand's on. It's not highlighted as much as the green, but it'll do. Just the black to add now, then I can start on the weathering, and get it finished. Andy
  12. 2 points
    Classic case of buy cheap, buy twice Keith. The one upside is that I now know what the major airbrush issues are and how to bloody solve them.
  13. 2 points
    I was going to make a joke about not being able to refuse 8" but won't.
  14. 2 points
    Happy Australia Day (for yesterday).. Thanks Beefy.. I have got the lurgi so stayed at home all day yesterday and spent it mainly either sleeping or in the hobby room so I got lots of little fiddly bits done. First up, I attached the supports for the 20mms to the deck.. Then I attached the roof to the radar lantern.. After those two I attached the cage to the crows nest.. Then one of the vents on the stack.. And a little mast off that.. My new hedgehog set arrived during the week so I formed up the part I destroyed earlier and put it in position in the base.. Its the bit with all the slats... Then it was the turn of the 20mms to get their magazines fitted.. Here is a piccy showing the mast in position (but not glued yet).. Then I attached all the little pieces to the yard arm and installed it on the mast.. Then I tackled something I was dreading. one of the long ladders. This one goes up the stack, or will when I attach it.. And that was it except for a few other things I didn't photograph as they were very minor. Cheers Warren
  15. 2 points
    I love masking, you spend an hour playing with tape, 2 mins spraying the it's all pulled off in 30 secs! Got the erosion tape strips done during this process............ Shaun.
  16. 1 point
    So while I'm paused on the Bishop, I thought I should do something just for the fun of it.....These have been hanging around in the stash for ages: They're a bit gappy and I sense Milliput in my near future, but I reckon I might be able to extract some amusement from them! My working title for this project is "Achtundachtzig Kilometer pro Stunde!!".....You didn't honestly believe 'Emmett Brown' was his real name did you?
  17. 1 point
    Just seen that Pocher have announced that they will produce a Mercedes 300SL gullwing in 1\8th. Be still my beating heart. Stuart.
  18. 1 point
    Evening all. Wee bit more progress tonight with some of the markings applied. the yellow stripes will be edged with black decal. hopefully the weekend will see more progress. Cheers Allan
  19. 1 point
    Tracking the process ....you got good progress going on there.... Thanks to your assistants ....I got two kits purchased one is this and a cn-235. Hope to see yours done soon Best Regards
  20. 1 point
    A worthwhile subject and one I didn't know was available in model form.
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    And this is how it looks once in place....
  23. 1 point
    Well, in that case I was wrong! Also sprach Joachim! Al
  24. 1 point
    Somehow I think that this will be a work of art. But how ironic as Alan is turning his modelling thoughts back to aviation subjects, I'm thinking about maritime... Looking forward to seeing this one progress!
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    If you do, just make sure that the control column position reflects that too. If it is slightly to one side or the other, then position the ailerons appropriately with the 'Up' aileron being the side that the control column (or spade in this case) is deflected towards. The same goes for the elevators, which normally fall under gravity and the stick / column would be seen forward of the neutral position. With regards to the Spitfire's ailerons, they were known as 'Frise' ailerons with the up-going aileron also showing part of the lower edge to the oncoming, higher pressure, airflow beneath the wing. This counters adverse yaw. The deflections on each side, up and down, were not quite the same either, with the up-going aileron deflecting slightly more than the downwards travelling aileron. But then, heck, what do I know? What I do know is that the painting and weathering is superb!
  27. 1 point
    i want one!!!!! very nice finish mate did you sand down the decals on the intakes or sratched them with a knife?
  28. 1 point
    C'mon dude, don't let it grind you down.....Think of Britain and battle on!
  29. 1 point
    Hello everybody , So .. for Giorgio, Ant and fellow readers : here is the answer : This is NOT a toy that you could use for " la bagatelle " as we say in French ... no ! no ! ( I'm pretty sure some readers had thoughts close to that , especially French ones !!! ) This is a hand vise for jewellers ( étau de bijoutier en français ) and ... why not for modellers ! it works like that : As you can see , it will help me with my Etendard's broken hook ! Cheers !
  30. 1 point
    Your post does raise a very valid point - at the end of the day, no matter how great a kit may or may not be, we all have different expectations. Me - I like the rivet detail, whereas you're not so keen. Often, no matter how great a kit is, peoples opinions will differ. It's a tough line for kit manufacturers to toe, how much detail is too much, not enough or just right? At the end of the day, if the finished article is something that you are happy with, then it's all good.
  31. 1 point
    I think #2 looks awesome, the giant gun really suits. #3 is cool too but feels a little bit top-heavy despite the beefy lower legs. It does give off a Thunderbolt vibe which is pretty cool Will
  32. 1 point
    Hi everyone Decals are finished. I've just about managed to achieve the look I was after with the previous markings just visible underneath the new ones. She's turning out to be a colourful bird. Now for some weathering. Thanks for looking, comments welcome. James
  33. 1 point
    Now that is how to build a Matilda - I like that a lot and hard to believe it's only 1:76 scale ... amazing!! Very well done!! :coolio: Kev
  34. 1 point
    It may be a struggle to sell weapons against the big boys but having products that people are interested in usually helps. The abovementioned Chieftain and Challenger tanks followed a philosophy (maximum protection and armament while sacrificing mobility) that not too many liked, reason why they sold in few countries. In those same years Germany sold large numbers of Leopard 1 and 2 tanks to many more countries showing how it's possible to compete with the US. Clearly the development of weapon systems designed closely around the needs of a single user has the advantage of giving such user the best but at the same time has the disadvantage of making such design less interesting to others with different needs. P.S. totally agree with Charlie on the Australian Seasprites, the Australians have a lot to be blamed for in this story
  35. 1 point
    This is a great reference thread for me.....But by god it's making me an awful lot of work! Archer rivets......Here we come! It's also a smashing build thread.....Keep em coming. PS - PM inbound.
  36. 1 point
    The Bishop's not really a bad kit, just a product of its day.....It's also the only option in 1/72. As you say upgrading these kits out of choice can be quite fun, so that's what I'm going to do.....If I'm being completely honest, I kinda knew what I was getting myself into when I opened the box. While the PT-76 was a one-off oddbal for me, I actually rather like the Bishop and I want one in my collection (it is very British after all), so this one is quite safe, it just might take a little longer to finish it than I'd hoped. So.....Let the Bishop supply shopping commence.
  37. 1 point
    Thanks very much guys. Thanks very much sah! Well, I've ended up with the nose gear well in chromate green, the main gear wells are interior green. It's called hedging your bets! You are a laugh a minute aren't you That's exactly what I'm going to do. Shinier the better!Really getting into this build now, and I also have a halogen heater for the shed Al
  38. 1 point
    Ahh you have a very sharp eye there Darby old chap Thought I had got away with that but with this wet weather that never looks like leaving us I have to have dry socks mate at least it shows I wash them from time to time Beefy
  39. 1 point
    I had to look up Diogenes - great knowledge!
  40. 1 point
    Thanks Simon. I tried the .4mm this afternoon, it kicks out paint like a mule, even at 10psi. Had to do the same as you and back it right off. I primed with the .2mm without an issue. Loving this airbrush though, its so much nicer to use than the splatter stick
  41. 1 point
    Nothing else to say apart from stunning. All the hard work and patience has reall paid off.
  42. 1 point
    Nice update Interior looks great! Roger
  43. 1 point
    I'm with Adrian, I love the curves of the Rafale. You did her justice!
  44. 1 point
    It's been an enjoyable thread. I bought the Air America boxing of this kit at Christmas. It's a nice looking kit and I'll refer back to your thread for help and guidance. You've done a nice job with yours. When it comes to painting, if I can remember, I take a piece of kit sprue and do to it everything I do to the model - priming, painting and varnishing - then that becomes my guide as to when it can be handled. No point risking finger prints on your model, instead just test the sprue for stickiness. Jeff
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    That`s big Alan. I saw a build of this kit on another forum and the fuselage is the length of 4 cans of Foster`s. Great work mate, coming together well. Simon.
  47. 1 point
    What do I think? Modelling Mastery at its best, that's what I think... Great job Bill, those look just the part.
  48. 1 point
    Good progress the detailing looks great. Guy
  49. 1 point
    Dad was Civil Service at Dover and he never mentioned any female RAF Herc drivers to me so he is probably safe but he might know the people on the US side who were involved.
  50. 1 point
    You are just zipping right along aren't you. I love a model that just falls together.
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