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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/08/2016 in all areas

  1. Greetings Fellow Modellers! I submit for your perusal a pair of small, so terribly small Gnats . Both models are Airfix's newish Gnat T.1 in 1:72 scale. They represent my return to the hobby, in that on these models I let loose every experiment from which I could learn. I initially wanted to build them OOB, but I ended up using quite a bit of aftermarket stuff: the pitot tubes are Albion Alloy Micro Brass Tubes and the nose wheels are from a nice wheel update set from the Hungarian company SBS. The nose wheels make an improvement over airfix's ones which are a little bit too small. The main wheels are from the kit, and the examples left over from the SBS set will be used later for a hangar diorama. The canopy was cut with a Revell precision saw to enable it to be posed open. The interior of the canopy was lightly detailed with thin plastic card and stretched sprue. For canopy work I mostly used bookbinder's glue, which is a strong PVA type. The windscreen was made flush with the fuselage with the aid of Gunze Mr. Dissovled Putty and then Mr Surfacer 500. Same story for smoothing the side walls of the nose wheel wells. Cockpit and ejection seats were detailed with plastic card of different thicknesses, stretched sprue and very occasionally thin brass wire. Paint was basically Gunze Sangyo Mr Hobby, except Vallejo for detail work and Citadel Runefang Steel for the silver. I had lots of trouble with the H1 gloss white, which I applies much too thickly and as a result wouldn't cure well. Thanks to tips from the Tools&Tips section (thanks DuncanB ) I learned some new skills. First matt white, a coat or two, then one coat of gloss. Works beautifully. Decals were from all over the place: lots of stuff from S&M models' sheet, wing stencils came from the home printer, and the rest was basically scavenged. Please forgive the format of some of the photos, I liked the idea of imitating 1970s film, so I edited the model's images accordingly. gnat2-7 by J Goat, on Flickr gnat2-9 by J Goat, on Flickr gnat2-13 by J Goat, on Flickr gnat2-1 by J Goat, on Flickr gnat2-3 by J Goat, on Flickr gnat2-15 by J Goat, on Flickr gnat2-4 by J Goat, on Flickr gnat2-5 by J Goat, on Flickr gnat2-2 by J Goat, on Flickr gnat2-14 by J Goat, on Flickr Thanks for looking! Jay
    24 points
  2. My next one: Hawker Hurricane Mk.I "Nightfighter",Tamiya/Italeri 1:48,-After many operations , it is time for the withdrawal- I hope you like it :-) Regards Klaus
    15 points
  3. Here is something I couldn't help building, after seeing the photo of this Tornado in Mach loop. I printed the "I'm with stupid" sign at home, and made my own decals too. The Revell kit is a pleasure to build, and fits really well. I weathered it with AK streaking fluids.
    14 points
  4. Zvezda kit with Eduard PE for the cockpit, masks, EagleCals decals for "yellow 14' Hans-Joachim Marseille. Quickboost exhausts pipes.
    14 points
  5. If you need a boost then this is the kit to get the enjoyment going again. Academy threw everything at this one. It falls together and has wonderful, perfectly-fitting decals to produce a great looker right out of the box. With careful use of tamiyas white and green glues the only filler needed was around the intakes where they meet the body, around the gun blanking plate, and a bit of thinned white glue around the front of the windscreen to get a nice smooth blend. Being an airshow plane its always clean and shiney, even in the wheelwells so no problems there. I did do a panel wash but it just didnt look nice over the decals so i removed it. I used aftermarket seats and engine but TBH there is no need unless you are really fussy about your seats. Decals worked best with microset and very very very careful use of microsol here and there.
    12 points
  6. All right then, I promised some photos of "ze stripes!" as applied to the underbelly of the Firefly TT.4 (sans wings). So here we go! The Gunze H77 Tire Black (sic) seems much blacker than I recall from my youth. I was anticipating a very dark warm grey, the colour of, well, tyres! There's little chance the black in the serial codes will differentiate from the stripe. Oh well, I sure as 'eck ain't gonna mask that off again! The wheel wells were brush painted with Floquil Old Silver (sounds like an after shave) and Testors RLM04 Yellow. They still need a wash and some dirt and grime. There are also two flaps/covers that hinge at the forward edge of the lower radiator openings. These seem to be open in most of the pictures - Special Hobby included these with the kit, but I prefer to make some new ones out of thinner card stock. Hey, how about Testors discontinuing about half their remaining line of paint colours? Let's see, they killed Floquil, Pactra, and Pollyscale, and now they're whittling away at their own brand. I predict, since they're primarily a supplier to the US hobby industry, what will remain will be automotive, and US military colours for modern and WWII. Why? Because I think that's what they sell in the US. It's pretty easy at the LHS to see which bottles are dusty in the rack and which ones aren't. Cheers, Bill
    12 points
  7. Hi everyone, I finally finished my kit, and I would like to share it with you. I have been taking pictures with a Reflex camera that has given me my brother, so I myself have been a little surprised at what can a good lens . Anyway, I think the images, being already on the website forum, should suffer some kind of compression algorithm (logical), for when I zoom on my pc, the level of detail is incredible before pixelate.Still I think you look great (recommend the max resolution of your monitor). Hope you like it, comments will be coming, Greetings to all Added link to assembly post http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234994371-puma-sdkfz-2342-135-italeri/ Cheers
    11 points
  8. Hello everyone Well I have just recently returned into the world of modelling after 10 years away from it. and my gosh it has changed quite a bit. but I have had amazing fun learning and researching new techniques I have never used before and putting them into practise the learning curve has been steep so bare with me if you spot imperfections This is my second model since returning before Christmas and my finished model of 2016.. Thank you all very much for you time I hope you enjoyed.
    11 points
  9. I modified the intakes to have all the doors open, added the MDC box in the cockpit and put in a pilot, the adaptors for the LAU-7 launch rails were taken from a Hasegawa A-4 kit. The pitot fairing is from Master Details.
    10 points
  10. Hi! Here is my build of the Trumpeter OA-37B. It is built OOB, except for the decals, which are from superscale. It was a very easy and straightforward build, the kit goes together really well and has no fit issues. The only thing I noticed was that the refueling probe sits a little bit high, but that can easily be solved with some sandpaper. Best regards, Markus
    10 points
  11. Hello fellow Britmodellers, I've managed to finish two more Spitfires. They are 1/72 Mk XVI's from the AZ kit, one a high back and one a 'bubble' top, both in markings for 2nd TAF machines in 1945. The marking for both aircraft came from this Xtradecal sheet. WX-V, TD240, is a bubble top Mk XVI that 302 Sqn leader Boleslaw Kaczmarek inherited from Group Captain Aleksander Gabszewicz (an famous Polish ace whose first victory was over an He 111 on the opening day of the war). I just finished them, and they're already dusty! Welcome to New Mexico. JF-E, TD147, was the personal mount of James 'Stocky' Edwards, a Canadian ace who may be the only WWII ace to have demonstrably under claimed. The mighty Procopius pointed out this aircraft as soon as he found out I had bought the sheet, and I knew I had to build it. I hope to build one or two of Edwards' Kittyhawks in the near future. Thanks for looking. Edit: There is a WIP thread here.
    9 points
  12. Spitfire TB752 flown by Hank Zary C.O. 403 Squadron,Diepholtz airfield, Germany April 1945. When Eduard brought out their MkXVI Spitfire combo kit I was delighted to see TB752 (my local Spitfire) as one of the decal options. My delight stopped there ........ Eduard somehow did not do their research fully on this aircraft. Edgar and I had a bit of head scratching over this aircraft as photo's are hard to come by......If any one can help out here please let me know. This is the resulting model. She has clipped wings ...not elliptical as depicted in the kit and wheel bulges on the upper wing. All mods that can be done from what's in the kit. I spoke at length to Lewis Deal who was in charge of the restoration back in the late 70's who helped me a tremendous amount (I even wrote an article for Eduard putting the record straight). Today she is resplendent in the Spitfire and Hurricane Memorial Museum at Manston. http://www.spitfiremuseum.org.uk/ The kit is a fantastic build and I can fully recommend it to anyone. There is no IFF ariel and some of the colours on the decal sheet are a little out. Other than that I'd give it 10/10. One last point this aircraft is credited with the last German aircraft shot down in the war. Many thanks for taking the time to look. Please feel free to comment. Edgar ....this one is for you......
    9 points
  13. Hi! I finished this already a few months ago, but didn't post it until know. Here is my build of the Austrian Draken in Dragon Knights livery. The Dragon Knights is a club of former Draken pilots from Sweden, Denmark, Finland and Austria. The aircraft was painted in this fashion for the decommissioning of the Austrian Drakens in 2005. The kit is the Hasegawa kit with the kit decals, OOB except the pitot tubes. The decals needed some touch up on the forward fuselage, since the flames faded from yellow to white, instead from yellow to black. I was afraid the decals at the bottom would present some troubles to get straight, but with enough patience and a lot of decal softener, everything went well. Best regards, Markus
    9 points
  14. This was my final model for 2015, bringing the grand total to 20 models built for the year. Trumpeter has done a really nice job of the model. I have corrected the propeller with the Pavla blades, as the kit parts a more than a little anaemic. It also has a Vac formed canopy, as the original was a bit distorted and thick. As this is one of the few models I have with the option of folding wings, I decided to take the opportunity of doing it with the wings folded. I'm really pleased with the results. Gunze paints were used, and AK weathering products were used to dirty it up a bit.
    9 points
  15. I dont build many 1/72nd scale kits but this was a commissioned build and a real joy to build. The Academy 1/72 C-97 built OOB using Model Master Metalizer's and Alclad's.
    8 points
  16. This is a build I did a few years ago now. It is the Academy kit with full interior, the only extra was a metal barrel, the rest is OOB. Not overly happy with the weathering but I was playing with some new stuff and I learned a lot from it.
    7 points
  17. This is a build I finished a while ago, Otto Carius Tiger 217. Its the Dragon Cyber Hobby kit, Friul tracks and pe set with metal barrel. At some point it will be going on a dio. Hope you like it and thanks for looking.
    7 points
  18. It seems that what I consider to be the simplest of phases on this project turn out to pose some of the greatest amounts of work and time to complete. I will readily admit the biggest contributor to the is self-inflicted and owes much to this authors clumsy styrene hacking. After the successful installation of the flaps and ailerons on the Super Hornets, my intent was to get an initial coat of the final undersurface grey sprayed. I thought I could get the Intruders and Prowlers ready for a coat at the same time so I set about a final tweaking of the re-scribed panel lines and general tidying up of the airframes. As you may recall, I modified one of the Kinetic Prowlers to use Revell EA-6A wings in an attempt to come up with a more scale like wing thickness than the somewhat chunky stock Kinetic kit part. The experiment was reasonably successful though it did guaranty extra work as the Prowler wing has wingtip mounted speed brakes that the EA-6A omitted, so the prominent hinges would need to be scratch-built. Not a big problem, how hard can it be? Because I wanted the Kinetic/Revell Prowler-stein to have a definite lineage with the Revell Intruders I thought Id just copy the hinges on the Revell Intruders. Upon inspection of the stock Intruder kits the simplistic representation of the hinge hinted that simply recreating the stock kit molding was not going to be satisfactory. I began to get the feeling that this might get a little more involved than I first thought. (where have I heard that phrase before.) Stock Revell Intuder kit molding Indeed, going through reference pictures confirmed the hinges were far from the simple triangular shapes depicted on the kit, but were a complex unit having flared fairings for the heads of the rather large fasteners at the hinge points. These fairings result in T cross section and would not be possible to mold as an integral part of the wing, Im sure one of the main reason for the simplified representation seen in both the Revell and Kinetic offerings. In addition the inboard and outboard hinges are different sizes, and the top and bottom hinge design are unique as well. A familiar feeling began at this point that things may be getting out of hand. I have to admit to hesitating (In this case that word should be pronounced very similar to procrastination) while I attempted to figure out how much effort this was going to entail and would it be worth it. Once the decision to proceed was made, there is really nothing difficult about the actual construction. To start, the molded hinges were cut off the Intruders. The speed brake panel line was then scribed on the Prowler using dimensions taken from the Intruders. Of course after scribing the three Intruders and the Prowler, I discovered that I had not only had I scribed the speed brake panels too small but I also missed the correct orientation of the hinge line. The hinge line should be perpendicular to the centerline of the aircraft and each wing parallel. A bit of stretched gate material was used to fill in the error, and the line re-scribed using a long straight edge that spanned both wings to ensure the proper orientation. The basic hinge is made up of a triangular core cut from .020 X .080 styrene and tapered fairings at the top made up from blanks of .015 X .030 strips. The bolt head and nut that make up the hinge pin will be cut from hexagon cross section styrene rod once the hinges are installed on the models. The fairings are pretty small so to form the taper I attached a blank to the core and trimmed the excess with a sharp blade and a little file work. The time (and patience testing) part of the project was the sheer number of parts to produce. Because the Prowler and the three Intruders will be displayed together in the same collection I needed to produce four sets of hinges in order to have the group to show a definite family connection. In the end I could have just gone ahead and produced the parts in less than half the time it took me to think about it! I did go ahead and make up one extra set of hinges for possible future use The desk top did get a little overwhelmed. Even using trays to keep assemblies separate it was easy to confuse components and cut offs. The completed hinge sets at last! Close up of an upper outboard and lower inboard hinge. While I was refining the wing tip area I took the opportunity to replace the solid molded fuel dump tube with a section of U channel. So there is my long and sorted excuse-er-story of why Ive been so slow with getting an update posted. I keep waiting to get over the hump of time intensive scratch built portions of this build, the only one I foresee yet to tackle is the boarding ladders. Thanks again for your interest and the support! Eric aka The Yankymodeler. p.s. The Super Hornets are still waiting patiently in the paint booth! p.p.s. I will also admit to spending a fair amount of time on research for the Trans Florida/Cavalier Mustang project.
    7 points
  19. All this talk of flight plans and the like makes me all the more pleased that I had a chap to do all that malarkey for me. No stick, no vote. Ah, wake turbulence. While I was at 819 we did a sneaky-beaky patrol on the back of a tanker up to the Barents. 4 crews + 2 Sea Kings with some (how shall I put this?) extra kit, as well as a Lynx on a Type 22. It being pretty much 24-hour daylight at the time of year the Soviets go bonkers on the Northern Fleet exercise areas, and we saw all sorts of stuff that I almost certainly should not tell you about. Obviously they knew we were there, and why (just as we always had a pet Primorye AGI sitting about a mile away during exercises in Ark), and most of the time they just let us do our thing provided we didn't get in the way. Sitting in the hover on the port beam of Admiral Kuznetzov (at the time a brand new carrier) watching them learn the dark art of true fixed wing deck ops was amazing. [i got some great intelligence shots of the Captain's dog being taken for a walk on the flight deck at the same time as a Helix was doing a ground run!] Occasionally, though, they'd be doing something they genuinely didn't want us to see, and in that case it could get quite interesting. One of the most exciting (but occasionally terrifying) sorties of my entire career was trying to find out why they were so anxious that we didn't get anywhere near an Oscar (which was actually the poor old Kursk, as in the later tragic disaster). She was doing something weapon-y in conjunction with a May (Ilyushin IL-38 - looks very like a P3 Orion), & we wanted to get as close as we dared. The May started to play chicken with us, flying straight at us and trying to use his wake turbulence to knock us out of the sky - or at least lose our nerve and go away. We kept this up for about 25 minutes, and got quite good at getting right in close to the submarine during the time it took the May to turn round & come back. Then there was a terrifying roar and a Flanker screamed over the top of us from behind what felt about 10 feet above our rotor head (in reality it must have been much more than that, but it felt unbelievably close, and no-one had seen it coming from behind us). I had to pull full emergency power (125% matched torque, which you could only use for c.10 seconds without knackering the gearbox) to avoid hitting the sea. We admitted defeat and ran away as fast as we could! I probably have to kill you now, cos at the time this was all highly classified...
    7 points
  20. Couldn't resist a couple of pictures with the seat in the cockpit However, it's only in there loose as I'll be fitting it near the very end of the build.
    7 points
  21. Here's my round-up of finished models 2015. With kind regards from Vienna Roman Schilhart IPMS Austria January 2015 Hasegawa Messerschmitt Bf-109 G14 w/Aires Engine July 2015 AZ Model Spitfire Mk.IXe Airfix Mustang IV (conversion using Freightdog Resin Set) Modelist (aka Dakoplast) Yak-9 August 2015 Revell Hawker Hurricane IIc AZ Model Messerschmitt Bf-109 G "Romanian AF" Kovozávody Preostejov Mustang III September 2015 AZ Model Messerschmitt Bf-109 G10 Airfix Focke Wulf Fw-190 F8 October 2015 AZ Model Bücker Bü-181 AZ Model Messerschmitt Bf-109 G10 November 2015 Airfix Focke Wulf Fw-190 A8 "Sturmbock" Airfix Hawker Typhoon IB Eduard Focke Wulf Fw-190 A8 December 2015 RS Models Reggiane 2005 Kovozávody Preostejov Lavochkin La-5FN Hasegawa DH Mosquito B.IV Sword Spitfire Mk.XVIe It was a good year for modelling - since my girlfriend left, I have had much more time on the workbench... with best wishes from Vienna Roman
    6 points
  22. Hyperscale has an announcement today about a collection of Edgar's notes about the Spitfire for free downloading. I already got my copy.
    6 points
  23. I'm dredging the outer reaches of memory here - so - step by step: 1. I remember we carried one or two books shoved into the bottom pockets of the G suit and generally forgotten about (Good start). I'm pretty sure it was two books. 2. One of them was definitely the Red Book - which IIRC is or was the British Isles Supplement. 3. I now have a horrible creeping feeling that the other one may in fact have been the yellow book I previously denied any knowledge of. This depends (1) on confirmation that the yellow book was pocket size like the red book and (2) that the blue and green book were other en route sups like the red book. That would mean that: 1. Whilst we sat on the ground at Athens wondering how long to leave it before taking off behind a 747 and 2. patted ourselves on the back for being prudent and taking off as singletons 3. we did in fact have 5 books in 4 aircraft which had we bothered to take them out of our G suit pockets would have told us the answer. This state of affairs does not in fact surprise me - I am not sure that any of us would actually have thought about wake turbulence since BFTS (save for the odd incidences of getting in the wrong place behind a tanker and getting spat out one way or t'other to the amusements of one's pals) - as unlike the lucky Albert drivers of this world we didn't generally get out and about much mixing with strange and exotic aircraft at strange and exotic locations and talking to strange and exotic controllers. We led a sheltered existence you see. And yes - whenever we went anywhere with a tanker we left it to them to sort out there en-route stuff.........They were good at it - and knew how to write signals and stuff
    6 points
  24. can't get over the cheek of it. Been led to understand I'd be the UK outlet, for a few months now and put the effort into informing people about the kit, and getting a good number of pre orders in, only to be informed this morning they'd done a deal with UMP last night. And I should pass on all the pre-order details to UMP. Sorry but those people came to me and I'm not simply passing on phone numbers and e-mail details to some company I don't know. And why the hell should I? I won't deal with tanmodel again and will go look at a few other companies where I'd rather spend my money. Also where the money and effort are worthwhile. Why should I put the effort in to have to pay a higher rate for stock? They can go shove it
    6 points
  25. Next up the flaps...using the excellent Paragon set. It's a shame Paragon is no longer around. Neil's work was always neat, accurate and of the highest quality. He always turned out the stuff that was of interest to me as well. Still, everyone deserves a rest and I hope you're enjoying it Neil! Thanks for the parts. You have to be careful on this build to cut different depths out of the wing above and below. The resin flaps and slats were fully washed and dried. Many people on BM will be familiar with working with resin but for anyone who isn't, this is done to ensure that the invisible release agent on the surface of the part is removed. This is there because when the liquid resin was poured in to the mould, the latter would have been pre-coated with release agent to ensure that, when dry, the now solid part can be removed without sticking. The problem is, for the modeller this prevents paint/primer adhering to the surface and only last weekend I spoke to a friend not used to working with resin who had had exactly this problem on his first outing. So, I've soaked them in warm water along with a squirt of Fairy Liquid for about 15 mins. Then given them a good scrub with a paint brush whilst they're still immersed to make sure it's all removed from the nooks and crannies. You know it was worth doing when the water starts to turn mucky and opaque! Some of that's due to dust created when the parts were cut from the blocks and then cleaned up (lightly sanded) but let's face it, you don't want that either. Always best to wear some form of mask to avoid breathing in resin dust when doing that of course. Finally, the parts were all rinsed with clean water, as soapy residue won't help the primer grip either, and left to dry. The first thing I always notice is the surface appearing more matt than before, meaning something has clearly changed...probably a result of evicting that release agent! The Jaguar had two pairs of flaps with a single leading edge slat on each wing. The wing itself does not incorporate a 'dog tooth' kink in the leading edge, as seen in this shot of XZ103/EF... As can be seen, this is present because of the slat protruding from the front of an otherwise straight wing edge, which creates that aerodynamic feature. The double-slotted flaps are, on the Paragon parts, moulded as a single piece. The gaps between them would barely be visible in this scale but I wanted to allude to them being there in a more obvious way so ran a scriber along the join a couple of times. This had the effect of presenting the illusion that there are two pieces and this will have the bonus of creating a small channel in to which a wash can run and settle towards the end of the build, again creating the illusion of shadow. What I wanted to achieve on this build though was the detail of the mechanisms because a lot of it is exposed below the wing as can be seen in this photo of mine of GR.1 XX958/BK... Having built the flap housings in the wing on both kits, I started with the inboard ones as these are the most significant units. Simply glueing top wing surface to bottom would seal the gap in to which they retract so I've thinned the trailing edges and inserted spacers in the same way as I did for the first Jag. That will keep the wings apart towards the rear. Then I decided to take a risk. There's nothing worse than committing to hacking up some beautifully made rein parts which are no longer on the market when you're not 100% sure your method will work! So, very gingerly I cut away some small notches from the inboard ends... I then went and tracked down some 'I-shaped' Evergreen plastic to use for the tracks along which the flaps slide when motored by the actuators (which will also have to be scratch-built later). Once the position of the rails was known, the other details in the bay could be built. The rails bend downwards slightly behind the wing, which is what allows the flaps to drop when extended. That was achieved by simply warming and bending the plastic once I'd cut them to shape to fit. With the resin flaps mounted on these I'll be able to leave a tiny gap between them and the wing. Again, more realistic than just glueing the flaps to the trailing edge. There will however, be less points of contact so it will be weaker, meaning care must be taken to build a strong set of rails. That's the reason I've extended them inside the wing and built guidance channels in to which I can insert them later once painted. That saves me knocking them off during the rest of the build and means I can weather them independently of the model. So, enough of my ramblings. Sorry...just nice to be back to a bit of modelling after 3 years!
    6 points
  26. Not so much incompetence, as 2 nations divided by a common language. 820NAS, 3 aircraft embarking in Ark by flying from Culdrose to meet her in the Southern North Sea. Bit gloopy weather in the middle, but warm so icing not a problem. Fine: transit VMC on top of the low stuff (5000' or so), then shoot a formation PAR at Bentwaters to get visual with the surface near the coast, and thereafter Grub Navy at 200' over the sea til we find Mum, probably under radar watch from the Bags, who were already on board. Brief complete. All goes as planned. A smooth handover from the clipped English tones of somewhere like Bedford or Luton. "Ringbolt Section, contact Bentwaters approach on blah blah". We chop channels, and a guy who can only be described as sounding like Cletus The Slack-Jawed Yokel from The Simpsons comes on - thick accent or not, he marshals us to the top of the radar approach with great efficiency. I was a first tourist and had only just passed my Aircraft Captaincy stuff; it might even have been the very first time I led a sortie - but I had pretty limited experience. In particular, I'd only ever used UK air traffic, and probably 90% of that within 200 miles of Culdrose. I was expecting "Ringbolt Section, you are approaching descent point; prepare to lose height". Instead I got "Ringbolts, y'all are in the groove, prepare to slide", and it carried on in that vein. The guys in the other aircraft said it was the only time they'd heard a radar approach where every acknowledgement from the pilot was accompanied by audible screams of laughter from the rest of the crew.
    6 points
  27. Hello, Colleagues! Today I want to present you another one of my models. I completed it in May 2015 especially for exhibition in Kyiv. I hope you like it! Thanks for looking.
    5 points
  28. Last night I finally finished the last of my first handful of aggressor F-5Es. It is the lovely AFV Club F-5E kit with Wolfpack ejection seat (the kit only comes with the old type of seat). Paints are mainly Xtracolor, and the decals are from the great Afterburner Decals sheet for aggressor F-5s. I have eight more AFV Club F-5E/F/Ns on the bench at the moment, so this won't be the last F-5 from me you will see here. Jens
    5 points
  29. Hello Chaps, I'm back to share with you my final build of 2015, that I completed the morning of New Years Eve. This was a gift from a fellow YouTube modeler, who sent it to me because he knew that I was enjoying building Luftwaffe aircraft during the last 8 months, but hadn't yet built a bomber, and that the Heinkel He 111 was a plane that I really wanted to get my hands on. This is a discontinued kit from 1994, but has been re-released under the Revell banner. For a 22 yr old kit, it has some reasonable details, including recessed panel lines on the exterior surfaces and three figures: a officer, pilot and bombardier/front gunner.. I did have a couple of fit issues though: one of the wing root to fuselage joints had a gap of around 1.0mm that I had to fill, and, the profile of the greenhouse canopy was wider than the profile of the fuselage body on both sides. I therefore had to carefully file the clear part down without damaging the window areas. Also, the original decal sheet was yellowed and the moment I put decals into water, they disintegrated. My friend who sent me the kit had suspected this might happen, so he included a more up to date set of decals, although they had markings for two H-6 version Heinkel's that carried two torpedoes and also didn't have the fully enclosed dorsal gun turret, but the open style with the windshield facing forward to protect the gunner from airflow. This newer decal sheet didn't include decals for the V1 rocket, of which there were 24 stencils intended to go onto the rocket on the original sheet. I therefore decided that this was going to be a non-existent, what if, fun build. I mixed some of the fuselage side markings from the decal sheet to spell 1H+AM, which was associated to a Junkers Ju 88 and which I thought appropriate at the time of building, as it was Christmas, and most people like a good Spiral Ham! With this being a large model at 1/48 scale, I thought that the two tone splinter camo was just too much green, and therefore broke the monotony of it up with a white tail band, which would have indicated that it operated in North Africa....again...accuracy isn't playing into this build...it's just for fun at this point in time. I have to say though, it was a good kit besides the outlined issues and I had a lot of fun building it! Enough waffling and onto the photos, I hope you like them Well there she is, I hope you like her as much as I enjoyed building her. Again, just like my Fw 190F-8 build, I haven't had the time to post my build on here, but I do have a introduction to the build video and 4 "Build Update" videos on my YouTube Channel, along with my "Final Reveal" video that are available to watch, should you be interested in all the stages from start until end of this build. Here are the links for the 5 videos associated to this build: Introduction Video Link- https://youtu.be/BRDvVv0aAS8 Build Update #1 Video Link- https://youtu.be/VCvq7-FxUxU Build Update #2 Video Link- https://youtu.be/wolvHNA4rZQ Build Update #3 Video Link- https://youtu.be/WPJQIszbQIs Build Update #4 Video Link- https://youtu.be/gSrM2QytLYc Final Reveal Video Link- https://youtu.be/l2BoXSWtHcE Thanks in advance for taking a look at this posting, for leaving comments and for watching any of the videos, should you do so, much appreciated! Until my next build thread begins, happy modeling, have fun and Happy New Year! Cheers Martin
    5 points
  30. My love affair with these ridiculously precision fitting yet cheap as chips excellent kits continues! Hope you like her.
    5 points
  31. Hi all, here is my Hawker Typhoon from Hasegawa it was actualy my first post on this forum But I want to post these images shot by my friend Hartdeco. I first tried to add them to my first post but that was not succesfull. I build this model early in 2015 and added quite a few detail sets, namely barracuda interior , dust filter and wheels, Aires gunbay and wheelbay, Master gun barrels and Aeromaster decals. I painted it with Gunze acrylics and gave it a wash with diluted oil paints Hope you like it(again)
    5 points
  32. Hi! After 20 months I finally finished my Tamiya Mustang in 1/32 It was a really nice kit to build, and maybe someday I will build another one. I used a lot of aftermarket stuff: Eduard Interior PE Eduard Engine PE BarracudaCast cockpit details BarracudaCast cockpit sidewalls BarracudaCast diamon thread tires BarracudaCals cockpit stencils HGW seat belts Eagle Strike decals Fundekals stencils The diorama base is from TrueDetails. The WIP-thread is here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234956944-p-51d-jumpin-jacques-tamiya-132/ Tha aircraft is painted with various colors, Tamiya AS-12 for the wings, Alclad Airframe Aluminium for the bare metal parts. Other colors are Tamiya and Gunze acrylics. The wing panel lines and rivets were filled (it was really a strange feeling to remove detail from a kit;-) ) The pilot figure is from the kit, painted in the Khaki pacific uniform. Maybe I replace it with another pilot figure, but at the moment, I don't want to spend the money on one ;-) to be continued...
    5 points
  33. The cokpit details are really hard to photograph, but there are pictures of it in the WIP. The wheel wells also received a detailing treatment with solder and fine copper wire. I didn't add any detail to the gun bays. The endinge bay is also a nice sight of the Tamiya kit: I am not sure if Jumpin' Jacques had a detrola antenna, but on one of the reference pictures I beliefe I can discern the tension spring, which I replicated with a bit of a giutar string with the core removed. The antenna itself is made from EZ Line. Thanks for looking, comments and also critique is welcome! Best regards, Markus
    5 points
  34. Hi Everyone, Here`s my attempt at making an AVG Hawk from every ones favourite P-40 kit Finished to represent a Hawk H-81 of the 2nd Pursuit Squadron `The Panda Bears`, AVG, flown by Franklin Schwartz, Burma `42 I made a few improvements to the kit, the biggest being: replacing the cockpit with a resin one I had lying around from an Eduard P-40 Still used the kit instrument panel though, so it`s still not accurate but looks better IMHO and scratch built a replacement seat. Other tweaks include; reduced the rudder chord, lengthened the tail wheel, lengthened the main gear........... Added retraction links to the main gear, Replaced the wing guns with brass tube and sanded the protruding panels down a bit. The Decals came from a Sky models set, which were great except I had to hand paint the teeth behind the spinner Oh and the pitot came off a Hasegawa kit, otherwise just the usual brake pipes, aerials etc Hope you enjoy, thanks for looking Happy New Year, Cheers Russ
    5 points
  35. Probably something like "You'd better not be standing this close when the engine is running."
    5 points
  36. I'm convinced! You've clearly got a lot more to do on this one so if you wish to post a thread in the GB you are more than welcome.
    5 points
  37. In similar vein, my son-in-law told me a story after one of his Afghan deployments that I found quite amusing. Their wokka had been cleared to land but then asked to hold while Kandahar recovered an A-10 strike package. Apparently there was a very efficient lady ATCO on duty at the time, giving clearences in very clipped English at 100mph. To A-10 pilot she says 'Yankee 01 blahblahblahblahblahblahblahblahblahblahblahblahblahblahblahblahblahblahblahblahblahblahblah' Pause, then from ''Yankee01'' comes a very Southern drawl; "Maaaaammm, you...........hear............the...............speed...........I...........tawwwk,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,weeee-el...................that's...............the...................speed.................I..............think. Would...............ya......................bee...........so......................kind...............as...............to..............tell................me...................that......................again"!!! Well, made me laff!
    5 points
  38. I think the best exchange I had with US ATC was flying into a desolate ranch airport in north Florida. The Unicom operator told me "November Fox Echo, y'all should park up by the FBO; shut down there and watch out for killer bees."
    5 points
  39. Greetings to all. Begged test samples of the new model from the Ukrainian firm Roden. Very good they get the model. Today managed to glue the tail elements.
    4 points
  40. Hi Having followed & stolen ideas from a great number of builds over a long time, I thought it only fair to share a build of my own. As the title says, it's the 1/48 Airfix Spitfire XII with Eduard's lovely (but fiddly & 2D in places) etch set. I also have a set of Master brass cannon barrels, True details resin wheels, Rexx metal exhausts & Montex masks (I hate masking canopies!). I am no expert & I'm very much learning as I go, so any comments & advice is welcome. And so to the some pics. Taken with my work Pentax WG-III camera (great for holiday snaps, but not so good for photographing models!). So far I've removed the horrid mold mark on both ailerons, polished off the rough texture of the kit plastic & attached then to the constructed wing structure. Hopefully, the difference between the original (wing) and cleaned pieces is obvious? I've battled through with the mainly etch cockpit, which I found to be hard work. I learned that very thin superglue is the best for attaching the pieces & that nail polish remover, with acetone, unsticks things when they go wrong! I haven't fitted all of the etched pieces in there because some of them are just too small for me & to be honest the Eduard instructions are quite vague as to where some of the pieces fit. So that's it for now. Hopefully I can crack on over the next few weeks & keep adding to the thread. If nothing else it'll help keep me focused on the build! Thanks for looking. Edge
    4 points
  41. Happy new year to all! So, I've already completed my first build of the year! Well, technically I completed it about 2 days ago. And I've been building it since September. And it's 1/72 Airfix MiG-15 consisting of about 7 parts, so not exactly a speed-build record... I've been building it for a group build on another forum. I haven't shelved the Lancaster, 727 or Gnats, I'm just very busy at the mo doing uni work around actual work, so i just chucked this little kit together to keep the mojo going. It's an excellent kit, the fit is superb, not a touch of filler has gone near this model. People will criticise this model for the trench-like panel lines, basic detailing and odd dimensions, and this is all entirely justifiable, but I'm sure no one can deny the enjoyment and fun of this kit. On with the pics: Kit manufacture: Airfix Scale: 1/72 Type: MiG-15 Extras used: Brass tubes for the guns, tape for the belts. Paints and colours used: Tamiya light blue for the cockpit and wheel wells, Tamiya flat red for the red bits, Model Master Aluminium buffable for the main colour over Vallejo poly-primer, MM Stainless steel buffable for the air-brakes, Flory Grime Wash, Tamiya smoke post-shading, Xtracylix satin varnish, water-based oils for streaking. The only things I changed were the gun barrels to brass tubes, simply because I kept snapping the plastic parts, and I didn't fit the activators on the air brakes because I couldn't see how they fitted. So, there you go, thanks for looking, happy new year, and I hope your hangovers are as big as mine is!! Val
    4 points
  42. Thanks James I was adding a few bay doors and their linkages, and thought it was time for another weapons test. Once I'd found them (buried under a mass of Metal Color bottles), I just popped them on loose and snapped a pic quickly before they all fell off again! I'm getting clumsy now, so I think I'd better leave it there for the time being I almost forgot. I got my replacement MiG specific static wicks the other day, and after Gabor told me the correct colours, I've just glued 13 of them (one pinged off to Bod knows where) to a stirring stick, sprayed them Metal Color chrome, and dotted some of that dirty red on the ends. They'll be the absolute last thing I apply to the model, as the trailing edges are too thin to drill with even a 0.5mm bit, so they'll have to go on butt-jointed, and will therefore be pretty delicate.
    4 points
  43. Laurent you have misunderstood me totally. Sorry about that and why the hostility? As ICM don’t visit BM I didn’t expect that they or anyone else would mind. Why is that you do? If ICM were posting here or anywhere else then I certainly would not be commenting on their threads. In any case, ICM did not start this thread and I am sure they have no issue (by virtuosity that they are not present). My comments were accompanied by the requisite emoticon meaning it was said in jest. In the same vein, I have not mentioned anywhere that ICM or anyone needs to cancel their project. Again, totally misunderstood (or misrepresented) and perhaps for a reason? It is not for me to say but for others to be up front to the forums readers. In the end the public will decide and that, Laurent, is the way it should be. If all was fair and correct Laurent, you wouldn’t be posting on any AMK threads and yet I have not picked you up on it. Please don’t worry about a response. I have said all I will say on the matter and I am pretty sure the good folks here at BM don’t want dirty laundry aired here. Have a lovely evening and a nice weekend.
    4 points
  44. Hi chaps. I've been persevering with the side etch. After my attempt to aneal the etch, I've been bending, trimming and finnagling it. I've got it pretty close to where I want it. Just needs a little bit more finessing around where the instrument panel and floor fit. I had to trim it back where the wing location tab fits, and cut out the aperture at the top. Because of this, I had to start reworking the cockpit floor. In my eagerness I fitted the pilots seat, rear gunners seat and control column. I chopped out the seat, as there's an etch replacement, the control column and rear seat. Here's the floor, with the etch in place. The section that I folded, that fits where the seat is, fitted pretty well. The rear walkway fits nicely too. Shame the section underneath doesn't. It's a bit too wide, and way too long. Just needs trimming back. I now need to drill a couple of holes to remount the rear seat and the control column. They'll both need pinning as I had to cut them off flush to remove them. Hope I'm not boring anyone yet. Matt
    4 points
  45. I've now done the first layer of streaking, and looking at a couple of them, they need toning down a bit with some more thinners, but I'm happy with most of 'em. I've also added a punched disc of white decal film to the circular depression just in front of the nose, which Gabor (where would I be without him?) informs me should be white I've also been through the instructions marking all the little parts that need adding around the airframe now that the majority of the heavy handling has been done. There's about 10-15 parts in total, all of which are still on the sprues, and will need painting before I use them.
    4 points
  46. Giorgio, Yes, the first few inches of the intake insides (all around) were painted matching the outside camo color: On the clip below you can also see the intake lips - where the paint is worn off (not painted). As you know, I hesitate to send you too many pictures showing weathering. Note that inside the intake, the paint on the outer side matches up with the inner (flat) side ... does that make sense? (I don't know what the stencils on the inside of the intakes read) Gene K
    4 points
  47. For true ATC (in)competence we really have to go to Guyana....I flew BN2A's and 206's there for 6 months...we had to file a flight plan (it was compulsory, even for pattern work!) at least 30 minutes prior to the flight. Why I don't know, but maybe they needed the time to figure stuff out.... Of course we had our flight plans filed well in advance, but then the weather would turn crappy and a storm would blow through...now we had to refile and wait another 30 minutes! Plus, of course, we had to co-ordinate with other students because if one had already filed for pattern work we were done for...they couldn't handle more than 1 aircraft in the pattern at a time so we wouldn't be allowed to go! If, on the other hand, we happened to be already airborne and practicing ADF holding (there were only 2 nav aids in Guyana, a VOR and an NDB, both at Cheddi Jagan International Airport) and an international flight was inbound, we would be directed to "hold south of the airport" - when asked for some slightly more specific instructions the reply would be "just hold south and we'll call you when you can come back" - no radial or bearing, no distance, nothing - just "south"!!! Some practice that was! And that was in severe clear VMC! Ian
    4 points
  48. Thank you both I added the tail piece, did a small amount of filling last night (didn't need a lot). I then rubbed it down tonight.
    4 points
  49. Thanks John! 1/32 Phantom? Big beast! And endless room for detailing ... Looking forward to when you get around building it! Cheers Duncan, thanks And thanks for your input on painting the windscreen, too. Here's an update: as anticipated, I toned down the red plastic covers for the radar screens. This is how they look on a black background and direct light: but this how they look with a light blue background: which is more similar to what they are "in flesh". I also mentioned I had prepared little Gene and the engine faces for priming: I primed them with my usual mix of Vallejo Grey Primer and Future: I then airbrushed them with Model Master Burnt Metal metallizer, buffed after 20 minutes or so, drybrushed with some Lifecolor Natural Metal and added a dark acrylic wash I then secured them in place using some drops of CA along the borders. The red marks had been previously done by Gene, to indicate the correct face alignment with the intake And here's what they look like (not easy to take a pic of that, actually ) This reminds me a question I already wanted to ask Gene, even if I'm still at an early stage: should I paint the first part of the intakes with camo color? I saw some USAF F4s pictures in which it looks like the very first inches of them is painted, some others in which the intake lip is metallic (don't know if Coroguard or just a paint lift off) I'll also get back for a moment on the boarding ladder subject: it turned out (like Silvano correctly anticipated) that gluing it with CA would not hold up to any handling, so I had to take everything apart and give tin welding another try. Went much better, but when I used my Dremel with a sawing disc to cut the side rails to the correct size, all the welding points cracked open So I cut them and restarted the welding, but for some reason had a lot of trouble (I've come to the conclusion that I'm using a rubbish tin wire). This all process took most of my modelling time during the last couple of days; now I'll leave the boarding ladder alone for a day or two, until I come up with a better plan to build it. This should allow me to concentrate more on joining the fuselage halves and get this build going a bit further. That's it for now, any comments welcome Ciao
    4 points
  50. Dear forum members, our modeler friends; Our 1/48 scale RF-84F kit has been released in Turkish market as of 29 December 2015 and will be distributed to all our distributor and wholesalers after New Year’s Day. You can purchase them from your local hobby shops within a few weeks. We would like to thank all of our modeler friends who pre-ordered and waited for us patiently. Our RF-84F is presented to you by TANMODEL in a long awaited quality with special part breakdowns, modeler-friendly solutions and other details representing the importance we put on modelers – all designed by Tanmodel’s design team. Our kit, prepared using new generation mould manufacturing methods, has panel lines and rivet details in different sizes. We processed these details onto mould using Dmg Mori Lasertec 65 milling center. For milling precision (especially for fuselage and wings) we utilized equipment of System3R Company. We would like to thank to engineers at the company headquarters in Switzerland for their attention and providing equipment of a special technology which they are preparing to release. Not just mould production; we also used our international relations during 3D design in an effort to present you the best. Our modelers friends, their names our below, supported us with information-document-pictures. We thank them before you : 3D design advisor Mr. Cumali AYGUN (Turkey), who provided us opinions and suggestions and Mr. Bob VERHEGGHEN (Belgium), Mr. Marco Alberto REBOSIO (Italy), Mr. Rick ELLIS (U.S.A.), Mr. Hans-Peter STARK (Germany), Mr. Ahmet Cagri ACIKGOZ (Turkey), Mr. Turhan GUNGOR (Turkey), who assisted us for photographs and documentation. Mr. Martin WILSON for English proof reading (U.K.). Box-art drawing by Mr. Huseyin BALTA (Turkey) We also would like to thank Dutch Decal Company and its owner Mr. Luuk BOERMAN for preparing our decal set. He prepared a great decal placement guide for you. We believe you will add this guide that we prepared as a booklet into your archive for reference. Our objectives as we prepared this kit: - To make it entertaining for everybody. Whether be a young or a experienced modeler. A model that is easy to build with comprehensible and detailed instruction sheet - Multi optional decal set - Option to build standard or detailed model - Of course; accurate scale and shape - Precise details - Perfectly studied part breakdowns - To be sold with very similar price labels worldwide (for you to not wait cargo from different countries) Our objectives for our future projects: - Strive to present a better Project, take your messages into consideration. A perfect kit with a box content we believe that you will like – Special gifts: Tanmodel has a team consisted of modelers. Thus, we think like you. We also make models and share them with our family and friends. We have beautiful pictures and posters on our walls both at home and office. So we figured that you would like posters as we do and we prepared a 34 x 22 cm poster printed on a special paper from profiles within our decal set. We spend lots of time to make model bases for models at exhibitions and competitions. Hence, we wanted to give another gift which has never been given by another company before. A 34 x 22 cm model base and/or mouse pad with taxiway image. If you like our gifts, we are planning to include them in our other kits. We would be more than happy if you could send you feedback about this. Now it’s RF-84F’s turn. Thank you for your attention. Please do not hesitate to contact us about anything. Best regards, TANMODEL Plastic Model Kits
    4 points
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