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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/17/2015 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Thanks everybody! Thanks PC, now I won't be so scared to attempt my FAA Corsair. You have any links to your build? Hope you're getting a little sleep my friend. Giemme and Tomoshenko - thanks for the advice about using Future to seal up an acrylic layer. It looks like I'll have to put it to use, as my attempt to clean up the walkway lines ended up a little ragged. I got the parts where the masking stripped the paint redone OK, but the walkways will require masking in order to clean up, but the masking will then pull away paint and then I'm in a masking and painting infinite loop. Future to the rescue. On the bright side, I got Titch Havercroft's BoB Spitfire done. The RFI is here.
  2. 5 points
    Thanks for the kind words everyone! Paul - Wish granted. I did build a 92 Sqn Phantom this year, and a 92 Sqn Lightning last year. Alan - the Tornado is not forgotten!
  3. 4 points
    My first post in this section so I'm a bit nervous... Little project to distract me from the wait till Sat. Couldn't resist a parallel build of Bandai's big and small Red 5's! I love the LEDs and the moving s-foils on the big one, it's worth the extra money. I weathered them as best I could but didn't have the nerve to chip the panels the way some of you guys have done to such great effect. 3x ties next then the Falcon! Sorry about the amateurish pics. Thanks for looking.
  4. 3 points
    Hi all, once again thanks for the kind comments, always keeps one motivated! Small update tonight, made a start on a oil dot filter for the camo, to try and break the 'newness' of it up... Here I have applied very small dots of oil paint that match the colour of the surface I'm looking to weather. Once all these dots were applied, I then brushed them with a wide soft brush to try to blend them all together, leaving very little of the actual paint and only a stain behind, if that makes sense? These are the colours I used.. This is the left wing done, and yet to start on the right, just to show the contrast. It is very subtle, but it does knock the brightness of the new paint back a bit and makes it look a little older. I'll post some more photos hopefully tomorrow of the whole thing done, with some chipping as well. Thanks for looking Steve
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    Thanks Simon I'd forgotten to do the harnesses and pedals. Linen enamel so I'll leave it to dry overnight: Harnesses by Ced Bufton, on Flickr
  7. 2 points
    Nice as it is, their attitude over British subs is rather sad. Doubt they've done any real market research on the subject, but there are a lot of sub builders who would love to build at least one. Poor show in my opinion.
  8. 2 points
    The flight deck... IS DONE! Leaving it to settle down and the transfers to dry completely, then I will seal it - eventually, of course, it will have a matt finish once again. Weathering will not be for a long time yet; still lots of experimentation to do, for a start. Ladies and gentlemen, it has only taken me 2 years, but we have a flight deck!
  9. 2 points
    I'm afraid there always will be a potential for "debate" when it comes to colours. In my day, heated arguments would ensue about the correct interpretation of RLM colours for Luftwaffe planes. I suppose as mentioned it comes down to how far the modeller wants to go - as near to 100% accuracy as possible or be happy the end result looks like the real plane in the photograph. Nothing wrong with either approach I think.
  10. 2 points
    I think we'll sit down with the big 'Colour Swatch Card!!?
  11. 2 points
    Then you should know NEVER to ask about colours of WW2 aircraft on Britmodeller (or any other forum in fact!)
  12. 2 points
    Thank you all gentlemen, FIGHTS ON, Greg, Orion, batcode, keefr22, stevej60, F-32, Phildagreek, Rod, DAG058, Bon, Sean, Jan, Paul, Adam and Jason. I did try and quote you all, but it was to many quotes in one post so it didn't load. Thank you all once again for your posts, Joe
  13. 1 point
    I stumbled across this kit when I was in Eastern Europe, and got it for around £5.50. It’s made by Mistercraft, a Polish company, and at first glance the box-art looked good, and the quality of the box was also very good, so I knew it would definitely be coming back with me in my suitcase! The Storch is a remarkable little plane, and it’s STOL capabilities were amazing for that time! Although it was only capable of 109mph, it could take-off in 71 yards, and land in only 20 yards, so it could certainly get up and down quickly! Personally, I think it’s a lovely, quirky little plane, and I’ve wanted to build one for quite a while. The small scale, and the desert paint scheme will no doubt make a cracking model if done properly. At first glance, the parts are made of a soft, light grey plastic, and there is quite a bit of flash. The cockpit is quite bare, with only a post for a joystick. No doubt the cockpit will need a few modifications, but apart from that, the fuselage pieces and wings seem nicely formed. It comes with transfers for two versions, the first being a German version based in North Africa during 1942, and the second being a Polish version, based in Warsaw in 1947. The German version is described in the instructions at the personal plane of Erwin Rommel, so this is my obvious choice! Looking at the instructions, the canopy could be cumbersome, as it consists of five individual parts. The roof of the canopy also bears a load of the wings, so getting the canopy nice and solid will be vital to the build. There are also the struts to think about, consisting of quite a few thin parts, so careful planning will also be needed to get them all meeting-up good and proper. So let’s crack on! So far I’ve been doing these bits: On the left is step one, the nose and propeller, which just need preparing, although I’m not glueing them until the end, as I want to paint the propeller using oil paints, in order to give an authentic wood look. In the middle is step two, the cockpit, which the seats glued-in, and the joystick slightly modified with a bit of modelling tape, as to simulate the grip. On the right is the internal frame for the canopy, which will need to be painted in RLM 02, before it is mounted into the canopy later-on. When the cockpit is dry, I will be airbrushing all necessary parts with Tamiya's RLM Grey, such as the canopy frame, and the interior of the fuselage, as I like to use my airbrush when there are lots of parts which can be painted, as to prevent unneeded cleaning. I have also prepared the parts for the canopy by dipping them in Pledge Multi-Surface Wax, as the original clear parts were a bit dull, and I thought they needed brightening up a bit. The Pledge just gives them a glass-like shine, and I'm in the process of waiting of them to dry before I give them the dreaded glueing! Stay Tuned!
  14. 1 point
    Revell First Order Special Forces TIE Fighter - The Big One. OOB build of this very large kit. Cockpit Ball Ok, so back onto this build now. Detail on this kit is good, the fit reasonable but the plastic and the way it's produced is bad. Cheap feel to the plastic and absolutely covered in plastic dust out of the box. But it's gonna get a paint job so onwards and upwards. The inside of the cockpit was given an oil wash and cleaned up. The chair was an awful brown colour so looking at the smaller version of this model by Revell (a far better kit), the chair is grey. I glued the chair assembly together, cleaned up the seams and painted with a tamiya light grey. The rest of the cockpit parts were added and touched up where required. The rest of the cockpit was assembled and the top hatch glass masked off and fitted into hatch. Top hatch and rear window masked off. The hinge bar on the top hatch was on the wrong way in the photo but was fixed before fitting. Inner cockpit assembly fitted into one half of the main body. The front cockpit glass was masked off. The pre-painted glass had runs and thick paint in some areas so it was sanded off. Then the glass was fitted into the front half of the main body. Then the main body assembly was glued and clamped together. Due to some large gaps, styrene gloop was added all around the seams and left to cure for a couple of days. The seams were then sanded smooth. Onto the wing panels. These were cleaned up and assembled and the all the parts were washed thoroughly to remove all the dust etc. Then the a wing panel was photocopied 1:1 4 times. This was then marked inside the edge of the panels and then cut out to make a mask. Then multiple panels were masked using the paper masks and tamiya masking tape.
  15. 1 point
    Cookie... you really need to try harder with these builds, lol. She is looking beautiful mate, the exhusts are particularly good, as is the weathering. Also nice little details like the drooped tail planes! Really hope mine turn out somewhere near this!! Also nice shot of the jets Rob
  16. 1 point
    Slacking this week gents, too many other things been going on, however I started applying the blue tac tonight to the fuselage for masking. To get the wavy demarcation line, I'm applying a fairly thick roll and using a rounded scribing tool handle to press the waves in to it. Looks rather successful. Should get the black applied this weekend. Jason, you spend too much time trawling BM as it is, now get back to your bench and get your big Avro box out!!!!
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    I've just come across this build and I have to say the result is a fantastic looking model. Such a great idea for a what if too,
  19. 1 point
    Thanks for all the help, guys. For reference, I've got the Tankograd Berlin Brigade book (which I've had for years trying to get up the courage/finances for an AA conversion for the Tamiya Chieftain) and now, thanks to Dave, the Photosniper Chieftain as well, so I should be sorted! bestest, M.
  20. 1 point
    That looks great! Colours look good, was there any mixing involved to to get the required colours for the build?
  21. 1 point
    Superb skills on show, looking forward to the next update already.
  22. 1 point
    I have been working on the trailer for the Scania 142H long based chassi for some time now. So far this is where I am. I have finally added the side wind deflectors, which I painted black. I also toned down some of the weathering on the passenger side. Still have a little toning down near the windshield as well. The trailer was scratch built and it is 90% complete. I have to add more details and a bit more subtle weathering around the trailer. I tried to make it look somewhat outdated by design but yet have a kinda modern feel to the rest of the overall look. I decided on the mix color combo; has the trailer, had been painted unprofessionally several times during it's hard course life. Secondly, I wanted it to be different and stand out. I am making the precast concrete slabs that will eventually be placed on the trailer when done..I am experimenting with various materials. The ones you see in the pics are made from poster boards. We will see what I end up using. The trailer has rest mounts for four precast slabs, which in turn can double up on each mount depending on thickness of the precast slab. So I hope you like the trailer and the overall look of this tractor/trailer combo so far. ---------------------------- -------------------------------
  23. 1 point
    Decals ref.72289 Source: http://www.mpmkits.net/2015/12/pripravujeme-sh72289-mirage-f1cech-172.html V.P.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    Always found this a tricky one... Considering the reputation of the observers who recorded blue aircrafts I'd be inclined to believe what they reported, however I wonder if there was any indication apart from blue ? A number of drawings and warbirds have represented this aircraft in a bright blue, something that I don't think any print of the original pictures can support. A bright blue of that type is also not really the best camouflage colour. Last but not least, if the unit used available paint, I can't think of any bright blue that would have been readily available in the quantities required to paint a large enough number of aircrafts. Did the bright blue indication come from oberservers' reports ? Or did the reports just mention blue ? If only blue was mentioned, this could have been a dark colour, for example roundel blue. This would have been available in decent quantities from RAF stocks (although I wonder if in quantities sufficient to paint all aircrafts of the unit). At the same time I wonder if the application of a green paint directly over the metal could return a colour capable of looking blue in certain light conditions ? Could the observers have witnessed a dark green looking blue ?
  27. 1 point
    If you are adding scenics based on that painting, why not go the whole hog dog: http://northstarmodels.com/product/143-resin-figure-of-german-shepherd-dog-painted/
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    Thanks. Good description here in second paragraph, and Scott gives a good run down on how to model it here in the paragraph just above his picture on the spine. That whole thread is great reading!! Gene K .
  30. 1 point
    This is coming along nicely! Martin
  31. 1 point
    Bessbrook. Flashing images from old memories. Flying through Chas's Challenge on the way home etc.... Watching.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Nice start on this nice kit
  34. 1 point
    Looks like your doing a great job of saving this (again! ) the transfers and paint work are looking top notch Rob
  35. 1 point
    That looks superb! Can't wait to see it weathered.
  36. 1 point
    Beside that problems with these decals you are on a very good way, nice weathering, well made small parts and the will not to throw it in the corner. Great work !
  37. 1 point
    Had a few days leave so managed to do some more bits. Knew I'd have to tackle the radar bullet/intake area and front undercarriage bay at some stage. I spent a long time looking at this area and at the CMK and Aires bits to try to decide which bits to use and what had to go where and in what sequence. I decided on the Aires set as it looked to have more detail to it. My ham-fistedness straight away broke the upper radar bullet support off on the Aires bit. I'd tried to be careful scoring the part where it was supposed to separate, but it just decided to break elsewhere (or my fingers did). The CMK part was transparently thin and had a great big mould hole in it, so I used the kit part. I also ended up damaging the small probe which was replaced with a brass pin. The undercarriage bay fit superbly and so far I've just added paint to that. Here's the real one. Might tweak the colour on mine yet. We'll see but Aires did a good job of this bay I think. The intake trunking went together ok and I decided that I wanted the bullet central in the intake ring so (rightly or wrongly) decided to pair that up with the intake trunking before fitting them both in the fuselage. I also noticed that the upper bullet support was mounted to a plate in the roof of the intake which I thought could conveniently fill some gaps in mine if I added a plate of my own. Here's the real thing showing the plate fixing the bullet support to the intake roof, etc. and my attempt I spent a while dry fitting and filing before adding the intake trunking and cockpit to the fuselage half. Then it was time to add some weight in the gaps (I used milliput and some metal nuts) before adding the tailpipes and closing the fuselage. (I did add some tubing to the large port side exhaust vent first, though). I thought I'd 'prep' the fin too by drilling the hole out. Some bits of filing and filling required to blend these joints to the fuselage at the back end, but getting there. It was great to hold the closed fuselage in my hands at last. Anyway, I wanted to try to get stuck in to the panels area behind the cockpit where my spine mod had taken place. There were lines I wanted to fill and then re-scribe but I also wanted to just have a go to see if I could replicate the small bulges in what is known as 'access panel 30' in the English electric drawing in Tim McLellands Lightning book. What I did instead then was to cut out my own panel shapes and glue them onto the spine one by one, butting them up to each other like wallpaper joints. Some of the shapes needed some careful cutting and I had to do some 'brass rubbing' (except it was on plastic, not brass) to get some of the shapes accurately. Here's the start of it.. You can see that the top panel has been filed down to blend in with the plastic at the one end and you might see the slight 'bulge' I was aiming for in the topline near there? ...(or perhaps not). Then it was time for a test fit of the cockpit canopy to see if all would fit well and whether or not it would be the shape required. So with baited breath..... and against a shot of the real thing I thought it was pretty close in spine shape but may need a slight tweak with a file. It did draw my attention to the nose shape which I'll be looking at next. closed fuselage so far Back to work for a few days again now. Been very interesting though and enjoyed most of it except for keeping dropping things in the carpet.
  38. 1 point
    All excellent builds, its great to see the Defiant in a perfect condition after the struggle with the non adhesive paint.
  39. 1 point
    Beautiful Skyraider ! The perfect and flawless modelling job as always, the what if look is also a nice touch. Why not recovering my messed up Wyvern and bring it into a "Falkland" look or desert camo.
  40. 1 point
    I shall watch this with great interest as I have two of them in my to do stash, having served over the water being a refueller for a few years. I always was amazed by how much oil leaked from them. If my memory serves me correct they were allocated pans 3,4 & 5. I wish you all the very best of luck in your build.
  41. 1 point
    Hear, hear! Quite right! Neil, quite frankly I'm tired of your laggard, lay-about attitude towards this model. Get onw't man! How am I ever to know what a finished Manchester model looks like unless you finish yours (or I could look at your two other finished Manchesters on this site)? Regards, Jason
  42. 1 point
    Hi all I've gone for the copper leaf (needs a bit of patching) but I think its ok
  43. 1 point
    ...As someone who lives 3 miles from Bessbrook I shall be keeping an eye on this. After all I'd see them every day..... Sean
  44. 1 point
    Maybe it won't be but at least we can have a hearty debate about it!
  45. 1 point
    Hi Steve, unfortunately H44 and R49 are far apart. H44 is a strong pastel blue whereas R49 is a pale turquoise which is why that was used. H65 is nearer but not strong enough. I tried that too. When I run tests I try to use all the same brand of paints but sometimes it simply isn't possible to achieve close enough match with just one brand. I think I did about a dozen tests with this one, which is fewer than usual I assure you. I may rerun this since Humbrol have the habit of altering their colours with subsequent batches.. H155 is a such case, it is darker and more green than it used to be but still not USAF Dark Olive Drab No.41.
  46. 1 point
    A good idea Paul, but I bet it's not in there either! John
  47. 1 point
    Hi Bernd, impressive so far, plenty of detail on this to keep you busy over Christmas. I shall look forward to see this coming together, Sean
  48. 1 point
    Point taken Alan, I should have known better I was involved in a similar "debate" regarding the shade of Orange used on German Canberra's. John
  49. 1 point
    Small progress, wings in preparation ... To be continued ...
  50. 1 point
    Nice job Cookie, it came out a beauty Cheers, Stew
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