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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/30/2015 in all areas

  1. Hi. My first work on this forum. We all know this model, Swordfish Mk.II - Tamiya 1/48 Additions: Tamiya Etched parts 61069 Eduard Etched parts FE384 Painted with paints Mr.Paint. Enjoy !
    33 points
  2. Here are some pictures of a Matchbox H.P. Victor K2 converted with the Flightpath conversion to a B1. The kit is quite big. It was also a difficult conversion. The engine pods were totally from resin. The model is quite heavy. It took loads of elbow grease and filler to tame it. I made this one for a friend in Engeland. He will pick the model up at Telford. Cheers,
    26 points
  3. 1/72 Revell F-104C Starfighter, 476th TFS, Da Nang AB 1965, first Vietnam deployment, mission Big Eye Protectors escort Lockheed EC-121D Warning Star.
    23 points
  4. Hi folks, this is Airfix kit built as Patch/Goodwin mount used during the first attack wave and Azur Glenn 167F flown by A.Warburton as part of the pre-strike reconnasaince. The build articles, among the others, will be featured in Valiant Wings Airframe Extra No.4 dedicated to Operation Judgement that is due December. Cheers Libor
    23 points
  5. Evening all, Having shared more than a few photographs on here over the past few months, I thought it was about time I shared a model! I've spent the last few weeks quietly working away on the new Airfix Defiant for my Battle of Britain project, finally adding the finishing to it this morning. A lovely little kit with no vices at all, the only additions being some Eduard seat belts and decals from the Xtradecal 2010 Battle of Britain anniversary sheet, which I found to be a little disappointing in their application; not particularly receptive to Microsol and prone to cracking rather than conforming, particularly along the fin leading edge. I also utilised Peewit's mask set for the heavily framed canopy and turret as life's just too short! Weathering was kept fairly light, with the cowling chipping applied in accordance to the Xtradecal's recommendations. A new technique to me, I applied some liquid mask with a sponge to the cowlings and walkway over Alclad aluminium prior to painting, and was pretty pleased with the effect after removal, despite the need for a little touching up by hand. All in all, an enjoyable, simple build to ease me back into the swing of things now the airshow season is done and dusted. Thanks for looking, comments welcomed as ever, Cheers, Shaun
    23 points
  6. Hi, I finally got around to taking some 'proper' photos of my Beaufighter II a couple of days back, so I thought I'd post some here. The work in progress is over here: http://z15.invisionfree.com/72nd_Aircraft/index.php?showtopic=6637 The other thread details all the adventures of the High Planes kit. At the time I started the Airfix kit hadn't been announced but I guessed this would be the most unlikely version they would kit. Cheers Michael
    20 points
  7. [/url] Scratch built nose grafted onto the (unjustly maligned) Mach 2 DC-4 Decals are from Hawkeye Models, a one-man operation in Canberra, Australia. His catalogue is extensive featuring, predominately, Australian civilian and military aircraft in most scales. FGH
    14 points
  8. Beaufighter IF R2059 Fighter Interception Unit (FIU) September 1940
    13 points
  9. #36/2015 After the Pilatus PC-6 and the Saab Safir, now this year´s third addition to our homefleet. In 1959 our airforce bought 18 Magister which were used for training and aerobatics. The last ones stayed in service until 1972 and were sold to Bangladesh, Biafra, Gabun and Ireland. AMK kit with decals from the Kinetic kit. The little airscoops on the rear engine covers are also from the Kinetic kit because they aren´t provided in the AMK kit. Painted once again with Tamiya Titanium Silver. some original footage: Austrian Airforce jet history in the 2nd Republic since 1955 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IlyzemrqBjA and a vid showing the former USAF Tulln Airbase, now again in Austrian hands, in 1959 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IlyzemrqBjA AMK and Kinetic kit
    11 points
  10. Hi, Here is my Luftwaffe F-86 built from the Hobbyboss Easy kit. I did a bit of additional detail work in the cockpit and also built the FOD guard. The photos are from my blue background phase. Thanks for looking Plasto
    11 points
  11. The Göppingen Gö 9 was designed in 1937 for testing the pushing tail propeller idea. It flew from 1941 and with the knowledge earned the Dornier Do 335 "Pfeil" was later on developed. The hull of the Gö 9 was a kind off "scaled down" Dornier Do 17. This extraordinary experimental model was build for the Euro Scale modeling event at Nieuwegein. (A Dutch little "Telford" show this Saturday). Right from the beginning the kit was fighting me with troubles. The vacuum form canopy was a difficult fit. And I messed up the swastika, (two separate decals) with a wash stuck underneath. Despite the nose weight the model had its own opinion to became a tail sitter. But looking at reference I discovered the real plane was also a tail sitter. The plane rested on his forward gear if the pilot was seated in the cockpit. The RLM 05 crème color is made by mixing Gunze 24 and 11. Later on added some yellow. The panel wash is done with Flory Models weathering wash brown. After decaling all sealed with enamel Revell clear matt. Last picture shows the size in comparison with 1/48 scale F-105. The first and second model build and displayed here on BM. Not one of the best build I made. But at the end I am rather pleased with the result. Thanks for watching.
    11 points
  12. Not an enjoyable build. I didn’t like the way parts separate from the runner just by being touched. Some parts break into two or more pieces and separated pieces get lost. The runners are much too large and too flexible. Even large pieces like the float-well section in the wing snapped in two pieces with minimal handling. This makes the ensuing build tiresome and frustrating. Having the wing floats in the lowered position was not an option due to the actuating arms being broken. Many gun barrels had to be replaced as these broke into several pieces as they were removed from the sprue gates. I chose to finish her in the splinter scheme of BV222 V-2 (X4+BH) in Trondheim after the armistice when she received British roundels for a ferry-flight to England.
    11 points
  13. Completely from the box - paints as supplied, brush as supplied, glue as supplied. Even the aerial wire is from kit sprue. Only tools I had were a hobby knife and a fingernail buffing pad. I still need to find a way to get the decals to sit down into the panel lines (they have been cut, but still won't sink down - I'd use decal setting solution, but I want to do it old school (I know ) . Filled in some hours while I was away at work, and the result is... not good. It's a lovely wee kit, well on par with anything coming from the East, but it's a challenge to paint with that combination of paints and teeny tiny brush. I'll build another at some point no doubt, but I'll use the airbrush and mask it and everyfink. No need for praise, or even comment, really. Just showing everyone that I do actually finish things on the odd occasion.
    10 points
  14. This is my most recent completion, Sword's Ki-84. I like the Frank a lot, it has clean lines and good looks, a true fighter aircraft. Some years ago I built Hasegawa's excellent but dated kit, and I've been looking for an opportunity to build another one. When I came across Sword's pre-production version (I believe the c variant), I had to have it. Sword's kit is a popular candidate for best short run kit in these great 'What is the best xx-scale kit?' topics. As such I was curious to see how well it built. I found it to be a typical modern short run kit - nice detail, good use of resin parts (engine and wheel bay) but also somewhat spurious fit in areas (gun cover, engine cowling, wing root). All in all it built rather well but due to general hamfistedness it did take me a bit longer to complete than it should have. I drilled through the top of the wing when widening the locating holes for the gear... not my finest hour. None of the kit's issues are difficult to resolve, the only slightly problematic area is the canopy; this seems to be a bit wider than the cockpit area it sits on, resulting in a small step. I filled this with Perfect Plastic Putty but it's still noticeable, especially when compared to Hasegawa's old but perfectly-fitting kit. Sword gives you a choice of two color schemes, an unpainted aluminium plane and a 'Medium brown' with green mottling. I visited Nick Millman's blog 'Aviation of Japan' to get a line on the shade of brown I needed, and using the color swatches I found I created my own using some RAF Dark Earth as a base, mixed with Tamiya Red Brown and Olive Drab. This was applied over a coating of Humbrol Metalcote Polished Aluminium. The mottling was sprayed using Tamiya's IJA Green. I used some IJA Grey for the control surfaces, but I feel the shade is too green when I look at it now - if someone can verify what this shade should look like I'd love to hear it. Sword's decals worked well but the set has one curious omission. It appears that the lines around the front and rear of the wings are red on an unpainted surface and yellow on camouflaged surfaces. Sword provides sufficient red decals to do to the unpainted variant, but for the camouflaged variant the yellow lines around the front of the wing are missing. I stole these from a Hasegawa sheet I have, but this created another problem, a mismatch between the yellow shades of the lines. In the end I therefore used all Hasegawa decals. After decaling I saw that the yellow on the wing leading edge had a decidedly greener tint than the rather orangey yellow of the lines. Oh well. I was going to weather the plane quite severely, to try out some new techniques, then realized it was in use with a test squadron, and thought better of it - I suppose these guys must have taken some care of their mounts and/or wouldn't have used it for long. I picked some W&N water colors to apply a wash, a toothpick to scratch the paint around some of the panels in order to allow the bare metal to show through, and a combination of pastels and washes to create some staining. I used a couple of minor after-market items on this build; canopy mask by Eduard, tubing for the pitot and gun barrels from Albion Alloys, a lens for the landing light from Little Cars and EZ-line type thread from some eBay seller. In summary, a satisfying result from what is undoubtedly a very good kit of this important and beautiful aircraft. It joins its nemesis, the F6F, in my growing collection of 'Hellcats over the Pacific' - inspired builds.
    10 points
  15. Hi Folks Continuing my Sabre fetish this is the Academy kit with the wings from a Revell F86D suitably modified to fit the fuselage correctly. The windshield came from Kiwi Resins,takes a bit of fitting and blending in to achieve the correct fit,decals came from Flightpath. The model represents an aircraft from 413 squadron RCAF Ian
    9 points
  16. Just finished this one, build almost oob. Decals are from Print-Scale. Was pulled out of swamp on New Guinea some years ago. Cheers Jes
    9 points
  17. Hawker Hurricane Mk. I F/Lt. E.J. Gracie 56 Squadron, August 1940 North Weald, Engeland Here is the link for my build.http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234985145-hawker-hurricane-mk-i-update-finished-30-10-2015/ Cheers,
    9 points
  18. Next time I'm tempted to reach for a Rattle Can because it seems such a bother to get the airbrush out I shall think of the GRCWBA and pause - hopefully (but not I am afraid certainly) to think again........ Dot filtering. Tiny (v.tiny) dots of yellow ochre oil paint then streaked and/or blended using a small brush barely moistened with solvent. I use Windor & Newton Sansodor low odour solvent with the oils - firstly cos it doesn't smell much and secondly cos I it doesn't ever seem to attack the clear coat. I'm no great expert at it - but I've found it a really helpful technique in 1/72 scale, both to create some nice colour variation if blended in - and to try and simulate the inevitable wear/fluid streaking in military jets. Here as they say is a reminder of one I did earlier using the same technique.
    9 points
  19. Hi - it's finished! Kit decals used to model 21394 Red M of F12 wing Flyvapnet, Kalmar in the early 1950s. How long have I wanted a 1/48th model of this aircraft? Too long! The build log is here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234987096-pilot-replicas-saab-j-21a-3-148th-scale-twin-boom-pusher/ Hope you like her, as usual all comments welcome. Cheers Jonners
    8 points
  20. Hey all! This is my French F-84G from Hobby Boss in 1:32 scale. With the little help from Eduard "Big Ed" i boosted the kit to another level. Eduard made a tremendous difference to the interior and the exterior. I choosed the Thunderjet from French Air Force, used and almost worn out.
    8 points
  21. Finished one Hawk's worth of main undercarriage bay. Simplified pipe-work courtesy of 0.2mm lead wire cyano'd to the roof with a few mm loose to be run down the bay wall. Oh. BTW. The reason for the little brass tubes stuck into the bay walls is to be a fixing point for the retraction jacks later on. Once I've made the jacks I'll be able to slip em over the tubes - as tested with some plastic strip here: And here is the bay complete for the moment. Get the wire-work done on the second one and I can move on. Is that an 'about time too' I hear being muttered Time for a glass of prosecco.
    8 points
  22. After long time i have finished one more model that is IS-2 zvezda kit ,1:35 scale. i hope you like it,comments are welcome. cheers Ratomir
    7 points
  23. Hi, Here is my F-5E finished as an Austrian Airforce machine with the help of decals from Matterhorn Circle. The kit is the Italeri who's is nice shape wise and features nice cockpit detail but needs a re-scribe and replacement missiles. The AIM-9L's are Eduard Brassin which were very nice to use I believe the Austrian Airfirce leased these F-5E's from the Swiss to tide them over following the retirement of the Draken fleet and the Arrival of Eurofighter Typhoon. Thanks for looking Plasto
    7 points
  24. Dornier Do-17Z 8/kampfgeschwader 77, Laon-Couvron ,Northern France July 1940 Kit Airfix 1/72 Eduard Photoetcheds Link: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234984983-dornier-do17z/ Ettore
    7 points
  25. Dog Fight over Margate. On the 24th July 1940 Werner Bartels was shot down by S.Leader H C Sawyer. Bartels crashed at West Northdown Margate and was taken prisoner. His Aircraft travelled the country raising war funds. Many pictures of the aircraft can be found on the web. A few days later S.Leader Sawyer was killed when taking of from Hornchurch. WIP here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234984997-dog-fight-over-margate-updated-2910-finished/page-1 ​ ​ ​
    7 points
  26. Dragon Firefly with Alpine Miniatures commander, Value Gear tarp & bits from the spare box. The tracks were a real pain in the backside. Weathering done with Mig pastels, oil paints & ground up soil from the garden. Don't tell the wife I used her baking tray to oven dry it! Any comments welcome. Pete
    6 points
  27. #35/2015 Like the US Navy, also the USAAC tested different experimental camos, like in this case. Each aircraft of the 27th PS was painted in a different camo and presented at the Reno Air Races in 1939. Academy boxing of the Hobbycraft kit, seat mount, forward canopy rails and underbelly vent are scratch, painted with Gunze and Tamiya acrylics in white/olive drab 2 and a flesh-sand mix. Decals came from H-Models, engine from Quickboost. btw, the races were in Cleveland, not Reno, my mistake :-) Cheers, Franz and Reinhard in this vid you see a short sequence with the 27th PS at 3:45 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_NlDKohGfU&list=PLTf-R3S7wNT0R6C5RDAA5RLBajN_Biktt
    6 points
  28. Hi here is my Academy P-39 built OOB. Thanks for looking Plasto...
    6 points
  29. Fokker K.1, Feld Flieger Abteilung ?, Eastern Front 1917. Thanks to All who helped run the show. Another grear Whif GB. Very enjoyable. Regards, Steve
    6 points
  30. Hi Guys Thanks for the support! The Lizzie is moving along, I haven't got around to photographing it with the camera! Gremlin here are some quick pics taken with the cellphone! Best regards Filipe
    6 points
  31. Hi everybody; yellow nose fixing: some gentle sanding and then a re-spray of Tamiya Flat White followed by Tamiya Flat Yellow: Not perfect, but with some weathering should blend in properly. I've then removed the wheel wells masking: Some tidying up needed, but again some weathering should tie all in properly (previous overspray on the air vents fixed by brush, BTW) Now, back to my cunning plan of fitting the exhausts after painting RLM76 and Yellow; they received a "rusty" drybrush (mix of Lifecolor Matt Red, Matt Brown and Light Gull Grey) - right done, left undone follwed by a Lifecolor Matt Black drybrush Another drybrush, this time with Light Gull Grey, just to pic up some details and a dark wash Glued in place: So I eventually put the gun cowl in place; despite of my efforts to try and get a good fit of this part, after primer and paint layers I still had trouble in positioning it, even if I scraped away the joining surfaces for the excess paint. This is really the worst part of this build: I used Tamiya Green Cap to glue it, and now needs filling (not a big deal) and trimming on the front edge (I'm a bit more concerned about that! ) Comments welcome, as usual Ciao
    6 points
  32. Hi folks, I have started a rather long term project, namely to build the Hasegawa Pete as a wreck. The first steps are to reproduce a kind of stressed skin effect on the wings and fuselage, and to remove some fabric covered pieces. The wing upper surfaces are scraped with a small chisel, after sanding with a sanding sponge, the remaining scratches are filled with Gunze Surfacer. All the control surfaces were also fabric covered, and have to be reproduced from scratch. I used the cut off kit parts as templates. This was a very long and boring process. There are two tricks that help: the first is to use a mechanical razor blade to cut thin plastic card: it allows to cut through card without applying pressure, so the card stays straight and flat. The second trick is not to cut the exact shape of a piece: always leave an extra 'handle' useful to pick it up, the handle is then cut away after the piece is glued in place. Some rivet lines are reproduced with Archer resin rivets. On the reference pictures the prop spinner is always absent, so I reproduced a backplate with plastic card. The next step was to add some details to the already beautiful interior: I removed the molded in ammo drums for the machine gun and replaced them with empty supports. I also added some wiring with lead wire and various knobs here and there. A kind of belt where signal flares were stored is redone with lead foil. I also added some details to the floor and seats. The floor pieces are done with thin plastic card, riveted on the back, to get raised rivets on the front side. The instrument panels were filled smooth and the instrument places drilled out, I added some photoetched bezels from my leftover box. The throttle and some other quadrant are redone for better detail. Finally I moved to the engine cover: two side panels were cut out, the sides were thinned with a scalpel and some plastic lips added. The firewall will be barely visible, so for lack of reference I used my imagination to make it reasonably busy. The next step will be painting. I hope you will like it, Christian
    5 points
  33. Hello, One of the few models that I built tank. The kit is pure box without accessories. In the finals, I have modified the pad. I replaced the log behind barbed wire tangled with the "pig tails" More photos in the spoiler
    5 points
  34. 5 points
  35. 1/48 HobbyBoss KV-2 'Big Turret' I've always liked the agricultural, basic look of the KV-2, especially the prototype 'dreadnought' big turret version. I used it as a bit of a test build, I've been struggling with weathering and I wanted to try out a load of techniques. I also tested assembling each side of the running gear (wheels and tracks) as a separate unit so I could slot them on after weathering the hull, which was only possible due to the link and length tracks in the kit. It worked but it was tad stressful and I probably won't do it again in a hurry. As for the weathering, still lots more to learn. What I did find out is that black pastel is great for streaking affects on dark green subjects.
    5 points
  36. 30/10 update: Dirtying the beast. Oil washes: No prizes for guessing what this is: Still squeaky clean and a long road to travel yet. Filipe's excellent build gave the push in the direction of this "Stash prisoner". To my utter disgust I see some silvering on the decals on the starboard wing near a filler cap. Can't have that
    5 points
  37. evening folks thanks for dropping in.. Thanks Viv - make sure you stop by my stand and say hello I can show you how easy it is with the right materials.. Hi Kev - I will have to ask Tim Perry as he did them for me - I needed to get them re-done as I got my original dimensions wrong and I have no idea what micron setting it was done at. I hope we can catch up at Telford - please stop by my stand as I have a debt to you I want to repay for kindly helping me out I must admit I hear nothing but bad things about the Combat kit (apart from the plans) - though there is a new vacform out now I think from Tigger Models - discussed here so onto todays business....have been doing assorted things lately trying to get ready for the big debut at Telford (big for me anyway) - I thought I would focus on things that can be seen before I get lost in the main gear wells again.. ..first up there are a series of footholds and handholds behind the wing where the pilot climbs up to get on board - you can see them here.. ..I was going to just scribe them, but in lots of photo's of the area the springs that push them flush with the fuselage skin have gone so they are slightly depressed. With some care I set about cutting away the skin.. ..used a dremel burr and files to open all the holes.. ..and added the doors, with one or two slightly depressed. ..you might also see I started doing all the horizontal rivets too.. ..the riveting was also a bit tricky as I had only done the vertical rivets on each individual litho panel as each panel was added = this was because I didn't think I would be able to line them up very well laterally a panel at a time, so now it comes time to add them they are done in one very long row from nose to tail... ..in some areas on the first litho panels I ever laid they were a bit squishy so there is a bit of 'quilting' here and there but overall I can live with it... ..I also wanted to finish the rear tips of the nacelles - so the same process as the nose - refine the part first so it fits like a glove.. ..both halves in place.. ..and after adding rivets & fasteners.. ....still lots to do, but really enjoying myself on this build - scratchbuilding is so liberating and rewarding TTFN Peter
    5 points
  38. 5 points
  39. Hi, Here is my P-51D built from the Airfix kit. I used some aftermarket decals to portray Robert Goebel's "Flying Dutchman" as it appeared in 1945 Thanks for looking.. Plasto
    4 points
  40. Cheers Beefy and S. Well have now done all the top shrouds and also the main stay's. Loose here then main stay ropes put over. Tightened up. Next it was the block/tackle for the sprit main stay ropes. For anyone doing this, I would suggest that you put the first blocks on the knights head before adding the netting and booms. This is very fiddly otherwise. Fitted the stay ropes over the shroud/mast first then passed down through the bowsprit. Then comes the block/tackle, if I had done the first block earlier,the remaining block and ropes would have been a lot easier. Next its the lighter stays to the channels. Having a good plan on where all goes is a must now. Will try an explain more as I go along. foxy
    4 points
  41. Hello people ! Hooray ! I managed to finish it! Despite my work commitments, these mornings I got up early and put an end to the work ........... I hope you like it: Good to All Ettore
    4 points
  42. Looks good. Those double panel lines makes me reluctant to rescribe it. Anyway since Airfix has said they have a big announcement, and you've gone through the trouble of building this, I'm guessing the next announcement will be a new tool Victor. Thanks!
    4 points
  43. Arado Ar-234 P5 flown by Oberst Günther Radusch Kommodore NJG 3 September 1945 Berlin, Germany History: On the 6th of June 1944 the Allied landed in Normandy. But instead of having succes, they were thrown back into the sea. The Allies needed to do a new build up after the heavy losses and there wouldn’t be a new invasion until May 1945. This gave the Germans enough time to halt the Russians near the Polish bourder. This also gave them enough time to bring the Me-262 and the Ar-234 into play. The losses of bombers for the Allies was to great and they would have to waight till the Americans could bring their B-29’s over. What If: The Germans were still having some trouble with the RAF bombers at night. So to have a new night fighter they converted a few Ar-234 C’s into the P5 version untill the later and better versions were available. NJG 3 was the first unit to get the Ar-234 P5. They were placed at the staf disposall from NJG 3. As a very experianced night fighter, Oberst Günther Radusch was the first to fly one in the defence of Berlin. Building tread here. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234987629-arado-ar-234-p5-nightfighter-update-finished-30-10-2015/ Cheers,
    4 points
  44. This Yamato with HMS Kelly both the same scale, oh and a larger scale U Boat in the background. No aircraft forgot them again
    4 points
  45. Well I know one, but I'm sworn to everlasting Hellfire and damnation if I let on.......but I know you'll like it !
    4 points
  46. Thats a shame about your experience with the Archers product Colin, I have a few sheets of their small scale stuff and so far they have been okay. But considering what you paid I would be a little miffed too, maybe more than a little. Rivets done and final coat of primer applied. I should point out that the location of the rivets are in no way suppose to represent the real thing, they are more for artistic licence and to add some interest to the surface. Some sections went a bit askew and look bad in the photo but in reality are not too bad. photos taken after a riveting night (see what I did there) and photos taken this morning after a coat of primer I've also cut out some windows from clear plastic sheet next update should see some paint cheers Aaron
    4 points
  47. If you´re curious, finished models in the Gallery by morning of 30 October are: Hurricanes: 25 Bf 109:s: 18 Spitfires: 17 Stukas: 5 Defiants: 5 CR.42, Gladiator, Do 17, Hs 126, Fulmar, He 111 and Blenheim: 1 each There are 76 models in 73 replies, as there are three Dogfight Doubles with 2 in 1, Jenko´s gorgeous DD being the latest entry in the gallery. With whopping 152 (!!!) build topics entered we´re nearing the mark where 50% of them are finished and I KNOW you´re going to make it by saturday . Regards, V-P
    4 points
  48. yet another small but nonetheless important update. First of all, the easy part - I got the winch fitted! It's been sitting in the wings for a while and now it was time to attach it. One hole was drilled just below the trans deck for the brass wire to slip into and epoxy glue was used to fix the winch in position. I also got the hydraulic hoses fitted - including hydraulic connectors - just need to slap some paint on those later. I think there's also an electrical cable/connector in there somewhere - I'll need to check my photo's and see if I can bare to try fitting one. The winch isn't great by any standards but I wasn't going to go overboard on that particular piece of equipment since it will be mostly hidden by the trans deck door and hatch. Next up is a slightly more difficult part - or at least it has been for me... I have spent the better part of the last two sessions, probably 6 hours or more, trying to make the support struts for the Nightsun. Now, I could have taken the easy way out here (and wished I had...) and just used styrene rod/tube to make the tripod. However, styrene was too apt to bend and nothing looks more like metal rod than well... metal rod. Well, brass rod if we are being pedantic. I was convinced my new found soldering skills would be up to the challenge and help me make a decent job of the tripod. As it turned out my solering skills were more than up ofr the job - it was my "holding things in place" skills that were a bit shaky. This is one of my first efforts, trying to position everything was a bit of a nightmare to be honest. Before I forget - a BIG thanks to Ian, Bill, Geedubelyer and others who have provided photo's to me over the last few months. I had searched and searched and really couldn't find decent photo's of the nightsun fitment. Thankfully Ian had sent me a few which showed exactly what I needed to work out the correct position. It's all angular and sticky-outy and well, bloody awkward. I remember they were a pig to fit - and making this one brought back some memories. - This is version number two below, and I am almost getting there. I even got as far as fitting the heat shield.... and then I broke it while trying to give it a last tweak ! Back to the drawing board.... Say hello to Version number 3 ! Solid, soldered and primed! Well, that was a wresting match and a half but it's done, at least the worst part is done. I went to make the nightsun itself and discovered that I don't have any tube of the right diameters so will need to rush off and order some now. At least that gives me time to start sorting out some of the other parts I have been avoiding - like the exhausts for instance. I can also think about adding the brake lines - once more drills arrive. I have now got to that critical point where I am breaking off more than I am adding on in the build. Everything has to be handled very carefully, lest I knock some of the carbuncles and warts off. In other news... my 1/32 Wessi has still not arrived - I'm starting to get a bit worried that it's going to go walkabout in the mail somewhere.
    4 points
  49. I think this is my last for this GB. A Harrier GR53S of the Swedish Air Force, circa 1984/85
    4 points
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